Yet another Burgundy tasting (here are some previous ones: Burgundies, mainly new names, Burgundies old and young and A Chablis-heavy round of white Burgundy (mainly 2017-2019)).
The whites were pretty terrific, although many were still way too young for their own good and will get better once they shed those primary qualities. The reds were a much more mixed bunch - although one thing that might explain that is that a considerable amount of these wines were by Frédéric Cossard / Domaine de Chassorney. I’ve never been a big fan of these wines, as they are often very natty - seldom recognizable for a Burgundy - and every now and then pretty badly mousy.
These Cossard wines, however, were not as bad as the majority I’ve tasted. Some were quite natty, yes, but the best ones either weren’t, or then they were surprisingly nice despite their sauvage qualities!
Anyway, the winners of the evening invariably had Colin in their name. Superb wines.
- 1990 Domaine Buisson-Battault Meursault 1er Cru Porusots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (25.3.2024)
13,5% alcohol.
Deep golden yellow with an evolved orange hue. The nose feels old, tired and somewhat oxidized with aromas of chopped nuts, some hay, light bruised apple tones and aldehydic hints of sorrel and green almonds. The wine feels old, tangy and oxidized on the palate with a medium body and tired flavors of salted peanuts, some bruised apple, light aldehydic notes of green almonds and a hint of stale bread. The finish is long and tired with an oxidized aftertaste of walnuts, some bready tones, a little bit of bruised apple and a hint of salted peanuts.
This is long gone. Fully oxidized and dead.
(NR/flawed) - 1988 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (25.3.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from parcels totaling to 0,86 hectares. 13% alcohol.
Deep pumpkin-orange color. The nose smells almost identical to a Madeira with aromas of raisins, some roasted nuts, a little bit of syrupy richness, a hint of cherry marmalade and a touch of mahogany. The wine feels thin, oxidative and tired on the palate with a medium body and flat flavors of chopped nuts, some syrupy sweetness, light tart notes of lingonberries, a little bit of mahogany and a dried-fruit hint of raisins. The structure relies entirely on the high acidity as the tannins have resolved completely, retaining no grip whatsoever. The finish is dull, tired and oxidative with a long, flat aftertaste of walnuts, some syrupy tones, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light raisiny nuances and a hint of mahogany.
This Burg is completely dead and fully oxidized at this point. No life remains here.
(NR/flawed) - 2021 Paul Pillot Chardonnay Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (25.3.2024)
100% Chardonnay from vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet and Remigny, averaging 35 years in age. Aged in 228-liter oak pièces (10% new) for 12 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, youthful whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful and somewhat reductive with aromas of grilled pineapple and ripe Granny Smith apple, some key lime, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of gunpowder smoke and a hint of sweet, grapey primary fruit. The wine feels clean, firm and maybe a tad thin on the palate with a medium body and refreshing flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and lemon juice, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light reductive notes of struck flint and gunpowder smoke, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of savory wood spice. The high acidity lends good sense of focus and energy to the wine. The finish is sharp and steely with a rather long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, light stony mineral notes, a hint of grilled pineapple and a woody touch of savory oak spice.
A firm, focused and refreshing Bourgogne Blanc with lovely sense of purity. However, the wine feels both quite reductive and a bit thin, as it is still so very young in age. Most likely the reduction will disappear with some aging, but I think it is still too early to say how the fruit department will behave with age. I certainly hope that the wine will put some weight and develop some complexity as it ages, but with a wine this lightweight, it is always possible that it will just begin to fade away without developing with depth or sense of concentration with additional age. There's good promise, though - while not super impressive now, there's a good chance that this wine will evolve into something terrific with further cellaring. At the moment the wine seems pretty pricey for the quality at 45€, but hopefully things'll change if the wine evolves and improves from here.
(88 points) - 2021 Benoit Moreau Chardonnay Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (25.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Chardonnay from three parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet, average vine age 20 years. Aged for 16-18 months in used oak. 12,5% alcohol. Bottle #7690.
Youthful and quite pale whitish-green color. The nose feels ripe and sweet-toned with pure aromas of white peach, some juicy Golden Delicious apple, light mineral notes of wet rocks and a floral hint of apple blossom. The wine feels clean, lively and a bit understated on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and layered flavors of ripe citrus fruits and tart Granny Smith apple, some pithy grapefruit tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light floral notes of apple blossom, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of crunchy white fruit. The rather high acidity keeps the wine effortlessly in balance, although the overall feel is more supple than zippy. The finish is lively, clean and refreshing with a moderately long aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple, some incisive steely mineral notes, a little bit of zesty citrus fruit, light crunchy notes of fresh white fruits, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A nice, refreshing and fine-tuned Bourgogne Blanc (or a Chassagne-Montrachet). The wine isn't flashy in any way, but instead somewhat modest and slightly understated in nature - but also showing lovely finesse and purity of fruit. Although the wine might not be bigger or immediately more impressive than your run-of-the-mill Bourgogne Blanc, it nevertheless shows more substance and depth than most of its peers. This is a tasty and serious effort for a Bourgogne Blanc - unfortunately also priced as such at 65€ - and it shows good promise for mid-term development.
(90 points) - 2021 Theo Dancer Bourgogne Blanc Roc Breia - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from 50-80 yo vines in Mâcon, fermented spontaneously and aged in old 500-liter demi-muids. Bottled without fining or filtration and with minimal SO2. 11,5% alcohol.
Youthful and quite intense lime-green color. The nose feels rich and slightly exotic with aromas of ripe golden apples, some cantaloupe, light peachy tones, a little bit of creamy oak, a hint of crunchy white fruit and a whiff of saffron. The wine feels clean, youthful and lively on the palate with a firm medium body and intense flavors of steely minerality and tart Granny Smith apple, some ripe lemony citrus fruit tones, a little bit of crunchy white currant, light spicy and saline nuances, a hint of fresh white peach and a faint, subtly funky touch of earthiness. Focused high acidity. The finish is fresh and lively with a crisp, dry aftertaste of crunchy red apple, some mineral notes of salinity and wet rocks, light cantaloupe tones, a little bit of fresh white peach, a hint of creamy oak and a faint touch of something funky.
A nice and serious Mâconnais white that is still very youthful, making it first come across as quite linear and direct. However, with some air (and careful observation) the wine turns out to be more nuanced than it initially came across - and packing a bit more substance than its modest 11,5% ABV might make you think. This is a very promising white that hopefully continues to evolve and improve for a good handful of years. Maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 75€, but hey, that's Burgundy for you.
(91 points) - 2022 Alvina Pernot Saint-Romain Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Romain (25.3.2024)
100% Chardonnay, aged in old (60%) and new (20%) oak barrels and amphorae (20%). Bottle #1750 of total 2916 bottles. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, youthful lime-green color. The nose feels rich, sweet-toned and somewhat primary with aromas of ripe pear and creamy oak, some fragrant arrack tones, a little bit of vanilla, light juicy notes of white peach, crunchy hints of star fruit and white currants, a touch of nutty wood and a primary whiff of pear drops. The wine feels juicy, primary and very youthful on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of juicy white peach and honeyed richness, some crunchy notes of star fruit, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of nutty wood, primary hints of pear and grapey fruit and a woody touch of oak spice. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is ripe, youthful and juicy with a borderline primary aftertaste of ripe pear, grapey fruit and pear drops, some crunchy notes of star fruit, light nutty oak tones, a little bit of sweet white peach, a toasty hint of smoky character and a touch of vanilla.
A rich, quite primary and even somewhat hedonistic but also very balanced and nuanced Saint-Romain white. At the moment the wine seems all too youthful for its own good as the fruit profile is quite dominated by the estery pear-driven primary fruit flavors and the oak still feels a bit disjointed. However, the wine still shows good sense of promise and I'm expecting the wine to come nicely together in a few years. An enjoyable and quite expressive take on Saint-Romain with some upside. Priced somewhat according to its quality at approx. 40€.
(89 points) - 2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Au Bout du Monde - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (25.3.2024)
Chardonnay from the 20-yo lieu-dit En Creuzilly, located in one of the coolest spots in Burgundy. Harvested about a week later than the vineyards around Chassagne. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in 350-liter oak barrels. Aged on the lees for 14 months in 350-liter oak barrels (10% new), then blended together and aged for another 3 months in stainless steel. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, slightly hazy and quite pale pear-greenish color. The nose feels intense, complex and slightly sweet-toned, beginning with a noticeable whack of that smoky reduction that is so typical of young PYCM wines, followed by layered aromas of crunchy white currants and fragrant apple blossom tones, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of spicy red apple, light youthful notes of sweet grapey fruit, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of fresh white peach. The wine feels crisp, focused and very precise on the palate with a medium body and intense, dry flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple and white peach, some sweet creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerals, light smoky notes of flinty reduction and toasty wood, tart hints of key lime and pink grapefruit and a touch of fresh pineapple. The bright, zippy acidity lends good sense of structure, intensity and electric energy to the wine. The finish is long, crisp and focused with an aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, a hint of tart Granny Smith apple and a woody touch of savory oak.
You can really see how the vineyard this wine is sourced from is very cool: unlike so many 2020 Burgundies, which have been quite ripe in style, this is markedly cool-climate in style, coming across as remarkably brisk and acid-driven. As the wine is still so very young, it is still pretty much dominated by the smoky reductive notes that are the hallmarks of the PYCM wines. Most likely the wine will age gracefully for many years more, but it is quite approachable already now - especially after a little bit of aeration. A terrific 2020 white Burg for people who prefer freshness and precision over ripeness and upfront fruit. Great value at 50,63€.
(92 points) - 2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin (25.3.2024)
Chardonnay from multiple vineyards in Saint-Aubin. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in 350-liter oak barrels. Aged on the lees for 12 months in 350-liter oak barrels (typically 20-25% new), then blended together and aged for another 3 months in stainless steel. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Clear, luminous and very youthful whitish-green color. The nose feels quite rich, somewhat sweet-toned and not as smoky as many PYCM wines tend to be, with layered aromas of nectarine and ripe Fuji apple, some cantaloupe tones, a little bit of flinty smoke, light fragrant notes of apple blossom, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of vanilla custard. The wine feels firm, open-knit and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of fresh nectarine, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of smoky reduction, light crunchy notes of cantaloupe, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of wet stone minerals. The bright, focused acidity lends great sense of freshness and balance to the wine. The finish is crisp, dry and lively on the palate with a long, somewhat mouth-puckering aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of crunchy red apple, light smoky notes of reduction, a hint of ripe cantaloupe and a touch of salinity.
A very attractive and harmonious wine that is very much PYCM with its smoky reduction and subtly toasty overtones. However, after the leaner, more high-strung and quite a bit more smoky 2020 Au Bout du Monde, this 2020 St. Aubin feels fruitier, more open-knit and more approachable in comparison. Where that Au Bout du Monde was surprisingly brisk and lean for a 2020 Burg, this St. Aubin is much more how you'd expect a 2020 Burg to be. It's hard to say which wine will develop into a better wine with aging, but for immediate consumption, I'd go with this St. Aubin as it is pretty much ready to drink already now. Terrific stuff, although these are getting quite pricey for the quality at approx. 85€.
(93 points) - 2020 Joseph Colin Chardonnay Bourgogne Les Hauts de la Combe - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (25.3.2024)
100% from +50 yo vines in Puligny-Montrachet. Fermented spontaneously, aged in used 500-liter demi-muids. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, pale yellow-green color. The nose feels quite ripe and rather open with layered aromas golden apples, some floral notes of apple blossom, light almond flour tones, a little bit of woody oak spice, a smoky hint of reduction and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The wine feels brisk, lively and focused on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of ripe yellow apples, some fresh nectarine, light stony mineral nuances, a little bit of zesty citrus fruit, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of juicy white peach. The brisk acidity lends good sense of freshness and focus to the wine. The finish is dry and crisp with a rather long aftertaste of tart green apples, some mineral notes of chalk dust, a little bit of zesty citrus fruit, light woody notes of savory oak, a nutty hint of slivered almonds and a touch of salinity.
An enjoyably crisp and refreshing but otherwise a bit linear white Burg. There's great sense of focus and freshness here, but the overall feel is also a bit linear and one-dimensional - tasting this next to two other Joseph Colin wines, this feels like a nice, crunchy everyday white, but quite little beyond that. Perhaps the wine will continue to open up and develop some sense of concentration with further aging? Priced somewhat according to its quality at approx. 35€.
(88 points) - 2020 Joseph Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (25.3.2024)
100% Chardonnay from +45 yo vines in La Chatenière cru. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 500-liter demi-muids (2/3) and 228-liter pièces. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, pale lime-green color. The nose feels a bit restrained, quite fine-tuned and slightly sweetish with aromas of white peach, some sweet creamy oak, light floral notes of apple blossom, light fragrant notes of basil and other sweet herbs, a tiny hint of waxy funk and a touch of smoky reduction. The wine feels ripe and juicy on the palate with a medium body and layered, youthful flavors of white peach, Golden Delicious apple and ripe citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of creamy oak, light waxy nuances, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of smoky reduction. The high acidity lends good sense of structure and energy to the wine. The finish is long, lively and quite acid-driven with a layered aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some beeswax tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light dry woody nuances, sweet hints of ripe white peach and honeyed richness and a touch of stony minerality.
This was a nice step up from the fresh but maybe a bit simple 2020 Joseph Colin Les Hauts de la Combe. Yes, the overall style here is also very youthful and thus maybe a bit linear, but the wine shows nevertheless a bit more depth and nuance in comparison. The ripeness rears its head in a slightly sweeter overall fruit profile, but it doesn't compromise the freshness and sense of structure here one little bit. Due to its youthful overall character, the sweetness of the fruit might be a bit exaggerated now, but I'm sure the wine will mature just fine over the next 10 years or more. Maybe getting a bit pricey for the quality at 65€, but not prohibitively so.
(91 points) - 2020 Joseph Colin Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (25.3.2024)
100% from +60 yo vines in Le Trézin, the highest-altitude cru in Puligny-Montrachet. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 500-liter demi-muids (2/3) and 228-liter pièces. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, pale lime-green color. The nose feels open and expressive with vibrant aromas of sweet white peach and ripe yellow apple, some vanilla custard, light floral notes of orange blossom, a little bit of crunchy start fruit, a hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of smoky reduction. The wine feels dry and firm yet quite open-knit and relatively broad on the palate with a full body and harmonious flavors of crunchy Granny Smith apple and fresh white peach, some creamy oak tones, light saline mineral nuances, a little bit of exotic fruit, toasty hints of smoke and sweet oak spice and a reductive touch of struck flint. Despite the full body and sense of breadth, the high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance and lends it good sense of structure. The finish is dry, lively and nuanced with a long aftertaste of ripe yellow apple and fresh peachy stone fruit, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, light spicy oak nuances, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of saline minerality.
After two somewhat more direct Joseph Colin wines, this wine felt a bit more similar to the smoky, reductive wines of PYCM. The fruit profile and sense of intensity and depth of flavor were quite similar to the PYCM wines we had tasted earlier in the tasting - however, this wine was less reductive, more open-knit and overall just more approachable now than the PYCM wines of the same vintage. Just like the PYCM wines, also this Le Trézin was a terrific young white Burg - maybe still a bit too young now, but definitely showing good promise and potential for aging. Lovely stuff and an impressive effort for just a village-level wine. Maybe getting a tad pricey at approx. 75€, but not prohibitively so - especially if the wine gets even better with additional aging.
(92 points) - 2021 Domaine Antoine Lienhardt Nuits St. Georges Village - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges (25.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir from Nuits St. Georges. Fermented spontaneously, vinified without any added SO2, aged for 12 months in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12% alcohol.
Pale, a bit hazy quite translucent and slightly evolved raspberry red. The nose feels fragrant and quite sauvage with wild aromas of composted orange rind and phenolic spice, some ripe raspberry tones, a little bit of phenolic spice, light crunchy redcurrant notes and a hint of sea buckthorn juice. The wine feels dry, lively and moderately wild on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of brambly raspberries and redcurrants, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of phenolic spice, light bretty notes of chinotto rind and funk, a hint of game and a touch of tart sea buckthorn juice. The wine is high in acidity with light, slightly grippy tannins. The finish is dry, gently grippy and rather acid-driven with a moderately long and somewhat wild aftertaste of brambly raspberries and crunchy redcurrants, some bretty funk, light tart sea buckthorn notes, a little bit of phenolic spice, hints of game and meaty umami and a Campari-like touch of chinotto.
A fresh but also rather natty red Burg where the rather sauvage overall character makes the wine feel quite generic and anonymous natural wine, rather than a classic NSG red. I guess this kind of funky glou-glou juice might be a big hit in trendy bistro bars, but when I'm drinking red Burg, I'd appreciate if the wine tasted like a red Burg...
(84 points) - 2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Maranges 1er Cru (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from +50 yo vines in La Fussière, the highest-altitude 1er Cru vineyard in Maranges. 70% destemmed, 30% whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 228-liter oak pièces (20% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and quite youthful ruby-red color with a slightly blueish hue. The nose feels quite sweet and rather dark-toned with aromas of black raspberries and ripe black cherries, some plummy tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of toasty mocha oak and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The wine feels ripe, a bit soft and quite dark-toned on the palate with a medium body and clean flavors of juicy black cherries and black raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light plummy notes, a sweet hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of raspberry. The structure relies quite evenly on the medium-to-moderately high acidity and quite firm medium tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and gently grippy with a moderately long and slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of black cherries and ripe strawberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of juicy black raspberry, light toasty oak nuances, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of wood.
A rich and vibrant 1er Cru Maranges red where the combination of warm 2020 vintage and somewhat pronounced toasty oak tones don't work that well to the benefit of the wine. There's great depth of flavor and purity of fruit here, but the sunny vintage has made the wine quite ripe, sweetly-fruited and dark-toned in nature. This alone would be still quite acceptable, but even if the amount of new oak isn't particularly high, it feels quite pronounced here, accentuating the sweetness of the fruit and softness of the structure. While the wine isn't particularly fat or flabby, it is still quite round and a bit softer than I'd want it to be. All in all, the wine left it a slightly lukewarm impression, but it was still thoroughly enjoyable and I hope it will shed some of that baby fat as it ages and starts to lose its youthful fruit profile.
(89 points) - 2018 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Côte de Nuits Villages Viola Odorata - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (25.3.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from 55 to 116 yo vines in five lieux-dits (En Vireville, En Fontenelle, le Creux de Sobron, La Montagne and Le Fourneau) in Corgoloin. Fermented spontaneously and macerated for 14 days, vinified without any SO2. Aged for approximately 15 months in oak barrels (about 1/3 new), bottled in March 2020 without filtering and with a tiny addition of SO2. 13,2% alcohol, less than 0,5 g/l residual sugar, 5,0 g/l acidity, 0,6 g/l VA and 35 mg/l total SO2. Total production 8491 bottles, 100 magnums and 5 jeroboams.
Deep, moderately opaque and slightly hazy blackish-red color with a subtly maroon hue. The nose feels fresh, fragrant and somewhat wild with aromas of brambly raspberries, some chopped herby tones, a little bit of animale funk, light volatile notes of nail polish, a hint of earth, a touch of tobacco and a solar whiff of sweet red cherry. The wine feels wild, firm and savory on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of crunchy cranberries and gravelly mineral tones, some funky animale nuances, light bretty notes of chinotto rind, a little bit of earth, volatile hints of nail polish and acetic tang and a touch of sour cherry. The structure is very firm and slightly rustic with the rather high acidity and quite grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is wild, dry and grippy with a long aftertaste of tart lingonberry, some bretty notes of chinotto rind and barnyard funk, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of forest floor, a hint of acetic VA and a touch of ripe cranberry.
A somewhat natty yet still pretty impressive and balanced red Burg. Unlike some naturalist Burgs, which don't really taste like Burgundy - or even Pinot Noir - this feels more like a rustic old school red Burgundy and is easily identifiable as a Pinot Noir. The VA does feel somewhat high (I'm not sure whether the 0,6 g/l of VA that the tech sheet said is the correct international value, or if it is sulfuric acid equivalent, which would make the wine clock in at 0,9 g/l VA) and although the wine stays perfectly fine for the whole tasting, there's some natty notes in the aftertaste that make me think this wine might turn mousy with enough aeration. Enjoyable, structure-driven stuff from the funkier end of the spectrum - I just wouldn't leave the wine open for a longer period of time due to the risk of mousiness...
(90 points) - 2018 Frédéric Cossard Bourgogne Bedeau - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from parcels in Volnay and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, macerated for 2 weeks with the skins. Aged in oak barrels, according to some sources, or egg-shaped concrete tanks, according to others. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.
Hazy and somewhat murky plummy-red color with a slightly maroon hue. The nose feels quite wild and somewhat lifted with aromas of ripe raspberries, some forest floor, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of compost funk and a touch of sweet Bing cherry. The wine feels quite crunchy, somewhat wild and a bit lifted with a light-to-medium body and dry flavors of brambly raspberries and gravelly minerality, some tart notes of fresh red plums, a little bit of lifted VA, a hint of sharp acetic character and a touch of farmhouse funk. The wine is high in acidity with light, supple tannins. The finish is wild, crunchy and gently grippy with a rather long and somewhat lifted aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some acetic notes of vinegary VA, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of balsamic VA, red-toned hints of brambly raspberries and fresh red plums and a funky touch of something animale.
A moderately natty - but not excessively so - red Burg. I haven't been particularly impressed by Cossard / Chassorney wines, but this was a surprisingly enjoyable effort for a Cossard. A tad too lifted with its sharp acetic overtones, but otherwise still recognizable as a Pinot Noir. I'm still not a fan, but at least this was a pleasant little drop in its own right. Felt more expressive and characterful than the softer and somewhat understated Qvevris version of the same wine.
(88 points) - 2018 Frédéric Cossard Bourgogne Bedeau (Qvevris) - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from parcels in Volnay and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, macerated for 2 weeks with the skins. Aged in earthenware kvevris. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.
Hazy, somewhat murky and relatively dark plummy-red color with a slightly maroon hue - the wine looks quite similar to the non-Qvevris version, just a little bit darker and less translucent. The nose feels somewhat volatile, moderately understated and a bit dull with light aromas of sweet dark berries, some cherry juice, light sweet notes of nail polish VA, a little bit of funky animale character, a hint of ripe red plum and a touch of earth. The wine feels juicy, somewhat wild and a bit soft on the palate with a moderately full body and rather dark-toned flavors of black raspberries and dark plums, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of earth, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of licorice root and a lifted touch of nail polish. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity with moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, funky and moderately grippy with a wild, dark-toned aftertaste of black cherries, some licorice root, light earthy tones, a little bit of black raspberry, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of barnyard funk. There's a touch of something unclean suggesting that the wine might be on its way to mousiness.
Seeing how this is supposed to be quite identical to the normal Bedeau bottling, this felt surprisingly different when tasting the wines side-by-side: the normal Bedeau seemed slightly cleaner and higher in acidity with a more red-toned fruit profile and quite light and supple tannins; this Qvevris version, on the other hand, seemed a bit more understated, darker-toned and slightly more sauvage in overall character with more prominent tannic grip and a lower, somewhat softer level of acidity. Furthermore, it felt like this wine might turn mousy with further aeration whereas the normal Bedeau seemed just funky, not particularly prone to mousiness. I found the normal Bedeau version pretty enjoyable, but this Qvevris version of the same wine left a somewhat lukewarm impression.
(85 points) - 2018 Domaine de Chassorney Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from Volnay. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously employing semi-carbonic maceration. Aged for a year in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2. 13% alcohol.
Deep, dark and moderately translucent cherry-red color. The nose feels surprisingly sophisticated and attractive for a Cossard wine with aromas of sweet dark berries, some balsamic VA, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light bretty notes of leathery funk, hints of brambly black raspberries and raspberry juice, a touch of licorice and a whiff of sharp acetic character. The wine feels lively, firm and quite focused on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart lingonberries and ripe cranberries, some wild funky tones, a little bit of licorice, light floral notes of violets and elderflowers, sweeter hints of wild strawberries and juicy Bing cherries and a sharp touch of acetic VA. The wine comes across as pretty stern and structured for a Volnay with its high acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is wild, juicy and moderately grippy with a long, crunchy aftertaste of sweet cherries, some brambly black raspberries, light barnyard notes of bretty funk, a little bit of licorice, a hint of acetic VA and a touch of tart lingonberry. There's a touch of that unclean, natty character in the aftertaste that might evolve into mousiness with further aeration.
A surprisingly harmonious and enjoyable effort for a Cossard wine. I've never been a big fan of Frédéric Cossard's wines, because they tend to be a bit too natty for my taste and many of them have a propensity toward mousiness. Sure, this wine tastes like it could turn mousy any minute, but as it didn't really show any mousy THP notes in our tasting, I was happy. This might not be the most conventional take on Volnay - the wine is quite funky and its structure feels surprisingly stern, rustic for a Volnay - but this was a pretty nice effort all the same. The wine is drinking quite nicely right now, but I can see it evolving and improving for at least a handful of years more.
(90 points) - 2015 Domaine de Chassorney Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from Volnay. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously employing semi-carbonic maceration. Aged for a year in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately deep and luminous cherry-red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels quite attractive but also moderately evolved with rich, quite wild and slightly tired aromas of sweet dark berries and dried-fruit notes of raisins, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of wizened figs and red cherries, light licorice tones, a hint of dried flowers, a slightly oxidative touch of meat stew and a whiff of earth. The wine feels ripe, evolved and quite silky on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of ripe dark berries and wizened cherries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, light evolved notes of tobacco and old leather, a hint of wizened figs and a touch of licorice. The medium acidity feels quite modest and most of the structure relies on the relatively firm and grippy tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe black cherries, some raisiny tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, light evolved notes of tobacco and meat stew, sweet hints of wizened figs and dried blackberries and a touch of leathery funk.
A stern and rather evolved Volnay that feels like it is on its plateau of maturity - and probably quite soon on its last legs - based on its rather tertiary dried-fruit flavors. Although I wish the wine was higher in acidity as the overall feel was a bit soft and lacking energy, this was still a remarkably enjoyable Chassorney in its own right - solely due to the surprisingly un-natty nature of the wine! Normally the wines of Frédéric Cossard are just way too natty for my preference, but this wine had just the right amount of sauvage to it: the VA was quite subtle and more balsamic than acetic or nail-polish like; and the bretty notes weren't over-the-top, just adding a little bit of leathery funk that intermingled with the savory flavors pretty nicely. While not the most graceful vintage of Chassorney's Volnay, this was still a pretty nice drop all the same.
(91 points) - 2015 Frédéric Cossard Nuits St. Georges Les Damodes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir made with purchased fruit sourced from a 55-yo lieu-dit in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Fermented spontaneously employing semi-carbonic maceration over 14 days in wooden vats. Aged for 14 months in oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without added SO2. 13% alcohol.
Moderately translucent and slightly hazy plummy red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels sweet-toned, quite wild and slightly evolved with layered aromas of ripe raspberries and wild strawberries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of wizened figs, light zesty chinotto notes of Campari, spicy hints of nutmeg and Pinosity, a floral touch of violets and a whiff of dried black cherries. The wine feels quite ripe and somewhat concentrated but also pretty firm on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of cherries, some juicy strawberries, light wild natty tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, hints of spicy and earthy Pinosity and a touch of nutmeg. The wine is quite stern and structure-driven with its high acidity and assertive, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is rich, pretty tannic and somewhat sweet-toned with a long and juicy aftertaste of ripe black cherries, some strawberry tones, a little bit of sweet balsamic VA, light earthy nuances, a hint of nutmeg and a wild touch of natty lift.
This was an interesting effort. Normally Cossard's wines come across as a bit (sometimes more than just "a bit") natty to my preference, but even though this wine was quite natty for a red Burg, the wine still showed surprisingly well, all things considered. There were some lifted and funky nuances and the wine certainly has elevated levels of VA, but still the wine never once came across as acetic or unclean - just quite sauvage, if anything. Not too wild, either - the wine did feel like a Pinot Noir all the time, not just some natty bistro juice. Furthermore, even if the wine felt surprisingly ripe and sunny in nature, it still managed to show great sense of freshness and focus. While I'm still not a big fan of the wines of Frédéric Cossard, this was a decent, enjoyable effort. Recommended.
(92 points) - 2014 Gabin et Felix Richoux Irancy - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Irancy (25.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from up to 70 yo vineyards in Irancy. Fermented spontaneously, aged in foudres and concrete tanks for 18-26 months. 13% alcohol.
Quite translucent and moderately pale raspberry-red color with a deep brick-red rim. The nose feels clean and vibrant with intense aromas of raspberries and spicy Pinosity, some smoky tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light evolved nuances of leather and tobacco, a hint of cigar box and a sweeter touch of wild strawberry. The wine feels clean, silky and harmonious on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of crunchy cranberries and tart lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light gravelly mineral notes, hints of tobacco and old leather and a touch of brambly raspberry. The wine is high in acidity with supple, textural medium tannins. The finish is long, crunchy and somewhat grippy with a vibrant, dry aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and tart lingonberries, some tobacco, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral notes, a hint of old leather and a touch of wild strawberry.
An attractive and wonderfully harmonious red Burg that is starting to show some signs of evolution, but is still very much on an upward trajectory. The wine is not a big or impressive wine in any way - just a very balanced, sophisticated and quite ethereal effort, in the way that a cool-climate Pinot Noir often is. There's beautiful sense of purity of fruit and understated complexity here and the wine has nothing in excess nor is wanting for anything.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
