A blind tasting of young white Burgs, mainly from Chablis (and one older bottle).
What can I say? The 2018 stick out like a sore thumb. Even if some wines were actually very nice and balanced, they still were stylistically miles apart from the 2017s and 2019s due to the noticeable ripeness.
On average 2019 seems to be a very promising vintage for Chablis; although some wines showed a bit more ripeness in the fruit sector that the fans of the old-school, chiseled style of Chablis might like, the wines seem to be still very crisp, focused and racy with cool mineral cores and great levels of acidity. Yet, even then, some wines were a bit softer and more exotic than I wouldâve liked.
2017 Raveneau is 
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2019 Alexandre Jouveaux O - France, Vin de France (23.2.2022)
A non-interventionist Chardonnay from MĂącon. Fermented spontaneously and aged for approximately 12 months in old foudres. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2. Labeled as "O19", lot number L2019. 15,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Slightly hazy yellow-green color. Quite odd and rather sauvage nose with a pronounced streak of licorice root, followed by notes of bretty barnyard, some Band-Aid, a little bit of freshly baked licorice and a reductive hint of smoke. Very little in the way of fruit here. The wine is rich and quite substantial on the palate with a tiniest hint of prickly CO2, quite noticeably full body and subtly sweetish flavors of ripe citrus fruits, a pronounced streak of licorice, some leathery funk, light volatile notes of VA, a little bit of wild waxy character and a hint of tangy salinity. The wine feels medium in acidity, at most. The finish is wild, slightly unclean and somewhat disagreeable with flavors of earth, some bretty notes of Band-Aid, a little bit of Weetabix, light acetic notes of VA and, towards the end of the aftertaste, a subtle yet perceptible hint of nutty or grainy mousiness. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a moderately warm note.
Ugh. A very unbalanced and unpleasant natural Burgundy white. Already the 15,5% alcohol alone is enough to raise one's eyebrows. However, the wine is not only super-ripe, alcoholic and lacking in acidity; it is also excessively funky, volatile and - at times - even somewhat unclean with dominant notes of barnyard, Band-Aid and, in the aftertaste, mousy notes of THP. This is pretty disagreeable stuff at the moment and I doubt it is going to get any better with further aging. Waste of money at 36âŹ.
(60 points) -
2001 Domaine MĂ©o-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-CĂŽtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-CĂŽtes de Nuits (23.2.2022)
This is a unique wine in the sense that it is a white wine and MĂ©o-Camuzet is quite strictly a red wine producer. This comes from a single monopole vineyard planted between 1990 and 1992 on shallow, rocky soil. The Clos Saint Philibert vineyard is planted to 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc, but due to strict selection, fewer Pinot Blanc grapes make it to the final wine. Since the vineyard is situated at a rather high elevation (over 400 m above sea level), it ripens very late, but due to the lack of potassium in the soil, the grapes always retain noticeably high acidity. Due to the cool microclimate, Clos St. Philibert is very susceptible to oidium and thus is the only non-organic vineyard of MĂ©o-Camuzet. The wine is typically a blend of Chardonnay (95%) and Pinot Blanc (5%); in some vintages Pinot Blanc is vinified separately, in others it is not. It is fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, aged in oak piĂšces for 10-11 months, blended into stainless steel, fined and bottled. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite intense, medium-deep and somewhat evolved lemon-yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels ripe, concentrated and wonderfully evolved without coming across as particularly mature or tertiary; there are complex aromas of wonderful toasty aromatics and smoke, some grilled pineapple tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light floral notes of honeysuckle and a hint of popcorn with a touch of browned butter. The wine feels dry, bright and slightly concentrated by the years with intense flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some browned butter tones, a little bit of toasty wood spice, light bitter notes of apple peel, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of wool. The high acidity lends great sense of focus and structure to the wine. The finish is long, toasty and complex with persistent flavors of spicy red apple, some smoky tones, a little bit of browned butter, light nutty nuances, a mineral hint of chalk dust and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A beautiful, complex and wonderfully evolved white Burgundy. I wondered why many people said they found the wine wonderfully structured, but "too oaky" for their taste. I myself am quite sensitive to oak, but I didn't find the wine particularly oaky at any point; instead the wine showed wonderful toasty complexity due to its 20 years of age. I wonder if people confused toasty and buttery oak tones with the toasty, nutty and complex nuances that only age can bring. In my books they might sound (and feel) somewhat similar, yet still are completely different things - which is why I found the wine pretty impressive from the first sniff, and my appreciation of the wine only grew the more I tasted. Thus it only made sense that the wine wasn't young, but instead +20 years old! Most people guessed the wine was oaky and about 3-4 years old, whereas I thought the wine was noticeably much older, probably +10 years, perhaps 2010. I was floored to learn it was actually twice as old! Based on how the wine is still showing almost no tertiary qualities at all, this will continue not just keep, but evolve for many years more. An outstanding wine by all accounts, highly recommended.
(96 points) -
2019 Anne Boisson Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (23.2.2022)
Made with Aligoté sourced from a 60-yo vineyard in Meursault. Fermented spontaneously and aged in oak piÚces (5-10% new). 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale and very slightly hazy yellow-green appearance. The nose feels fresh and zippy with aromas of zesty citrus fruits, some spicy red apple, light salty notes of ocean air, a little bit of savory old wood and a perfumed hint of apple blossom. The wine feels ripe, fresh and light-bodied on the palate with flavors of juicy Golden Delicious apple, some creamy notes of oak, a little bit of savory wood spice, light tart notes of lemony citrus fruits, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of sappy herbal character. Bright high acidity. The fresh finish is ripe, youthful and quite crisp with medium-to-moderately long flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some floral notes of apple blossom, a little bit of creamy oak, light crunchy notes of green apples and a tangy hint of saline minerality.
A nice, fresh and precise Aligoté with good sense of balance and structure. The overall feel is very youthful and thus a bit linear, but this feels like an Aligoté serious enough to be cellared for some time. The combination of old-vine intensity, judicious use of oak and bright, high acidity make the wine feel pretty impressive for an Aligoté - a variety often overlooked when it comes to white Burgundy - and seem to lend it great potential for future development. I'd like to revisit this wine once it has aged some more, as I have a hunch this could change into something very magnificent after it picks up some tertiary complexity. Recommended.
(90 points) -
2020 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% Chardonnay from vineyards averaging 50 years old. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 8-10 months in a combination of stainless steel and oak barrels. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful and quite intense yellow-green color. At first the nose feels very sweet-toned, almost candied in its youthful, fruity exuberance, but then it starts to open up, revealing aromas of hay, light vegetal notes of grassy greenness, a little bit of sandy soil and hints of fresh yellow apples. Even then the nose retains a rather primary overall feel to it. The wine is ripe and quite round on the palate with a medium body and succulent flavors of ripe green apples, some juicy notes of golden currants, light vegetal notes of grassy greenness, a little bit of stony minerality and sweet candied hints of peachy primary fruit. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine quite balanced. The finis his ripe, juicy and quite long with youthful flavors of candied primary fruit, some grassy green tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light fruity notes of golden currants and a crunchy hint of fresh yellow apples.
A pleasant and fruity but also rather round white wine that is very youthful and somewhat all over the place at the moment, exhibiting notes that range from grassy and vegetal to very sweet and almost candied primary fruit. Although balanced and quite high in acidity, I must say the wine didn't feel particularly Chablis to me and I guessed a warmer-vintage MĂąconnais white, perhaps 2018. If one is looking for a Chablis with good freshness, precision and minerality, this wine isn't going to be the one to bring those qualities to the table. Although the wine was pretty enjoyable, I wasn't particularly impressed by it. This drinks more like a generic Chardonnay than something I'd associate the appellation Chablis 1er Cru with. I hope the wine gains some finesse as it ages and drops its baby fat of that sweet primary fruit.
(86 points) -
2016 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% Chardonnay from vineyards averaging 50 years old. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 8-10 months in a combination of stainless steel and oak barrels. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Light pale-greenish color. Sweet, tropical and also subtly reductive nose that reminds me more of Riesling than Chardonnay with its almost primary aromas of peachy fruit, some sweet floral notes of apple blossom, light exotic notes of passion fruit, a hint of succulent pear and a touch of smoky reduction. The wine is ripe yet balanced and quite fresh on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of fresh yellow stone fruits, some ripe red apple tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light primary notes of sour apple candies, a tropical fruit of passion fruit and a touch of sweet white peach. The moderately high acidity lends the wine quite good sense of freshness and structure. The finish is bright and quite long with flavors of ripe red apple, some fresh white peach, a little bit of stony minerality, light sweet notes of exotic fruits and a mineral hint of tangy salinity.
A very nice, fresh and tasty white wine, albeit I must say that this didn't feel particularly Chablis to me. The nose reminded me more of a German Riesling than anything Burgundian and on the palate the wine was surprisingly sweet-toned and exotic, which really isn't a style I associate Chablis with. Nevertheless, the wine shows good sense of balance, purity of fruit, minerality and acidity, so there's definitely nothing wrong here. I was surprised to learn the wine was a 2016, because I guessed a warmer vintage (like 2015, 2017 or 2018) that would've explained the tropical notes better. I hope the wine would lose some of its tropical fruit notes and candied primary flavors and pick up some focus with additional age - at least it seems the wine could take on some aging, seeing how youthful it is now at +5 years of age. Priced somewhat according to its quality at approx. 35âŹ.
(89 points) -
2015 Caves Duplessis Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale whitish-green color. Sweetish and somewhat restrained nose of stony minerality, some fresh pear, a little bit of chalk dust minerality, light woolly tones and a hint of cantaloupe. The overall feel is rather reticent. The wine feels clean, ripe and somewhat round on the palate, yet not without sense of firmness and a well-proportioned medium body. The flavors are a bit restrained with notes of sweet citrus fruits, some juicy Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of steely minerality and a hint of cantaloupe. The acidity feels rather high. The finish is ripe and juicy with quite long flavors of zesty citrus fruits, some steely minerality, a little bit of sweet golden apple, light juicy notes of white fruits and a hint of wool.
A balanced and juicy 1er Cru Chablis that tastes like what it is - a ripe warm-vintage Chablis. Perhaps lacking the cut and precision I'd want in my Chablis, but showing enough freshness and structure that I can forgive the rather noticeable ripeness and roundness here. It's hard to say whether this wine will actually improve much with age, as it really doesn't feel like it was built to age, nor does it feel like it would call for any additional aging. An sophisticated and enjoyable wine that is recognizable enough for the region that my guess was a Chablis from a warmer, early-drinking vintage like 2015 or 2011. Nice, but doesn't manage to blow my socks anywhere.
(88 points) -
2017 Laurent Tribut Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis (23.2.2022)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale yellow-green color. Somewhat restrained and rather sweet-toned nose with aromas of ripe white fruits, some woolly notes of lanolin, a little bit of chalk dust and light floral notes of apple blossom. The overall impression is a bit dull, lacking in fruit and freshness. The wine is crisp, bright and wonderfully acid-driven yet at the same time surprisingly concentrated with good sense of dry extract on the palate. The overall feel is medium-bodied, but the classically styled, mineral taste feels a bit dull and lacking in freshness despite the minerality and acidity. There are notes of damp wool, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of cow parsley, light crunchy notes of fresh apple, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of steely minerality. Although the taste is lacking a bit in brightness, the wine feels wonderfully focused and brisk, thanks to its racy acidity. The finish is crisp and racy with quite lengthy but also somewhat understated flavors of tangy salinity and tart lemony notes, some crunchy Granny Smith apple, light woolly notes of lanolin, a little bit of steely minerality and a hint of chalk dust.
In one sense this was a lovely wine, because this was a young Chablis that was as crisp, racy and mineral as I want my Chablis to be - not a ripe, round and tropical wine, like so many recent Chablis vintages have been. However, the wine unfortunately fell short on both the nose and on the palate - although the high acidity made the wine wonderfully precise and the wine was not lacking in concentration or dry extract, it still came across as surprisingly subdued, dull and at times even relatively dominated by slightly musty notes of damp wool. I wonder if the wine was only in a slump now, emerging much more expressive and enjoyable in the future, or just a vintage with great acidity but very little in the way of fruit, freshness and depth of flavor? Go figure. I'd love to revisit this wine in the future, just to see in which direction it has gone, but based on its performance today, I wouldn't be keen on stocking up on this vintage. In our tasting of white Burgundy (predominantly Chablis), this was a bit of a let-down; feels rather expensive for the quality at approx. 35âŹ.
(85 points) -
2017 François Raveneau Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis (23.2.2022)
Fermented in a cuve, then racked into old oak barrels in which the wine is aged for 18 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Still quite youthful and moderately intense lime-green color. Clean, fresh and somewhat restrained nose with aromas of crisp apple, some floral notes of apple blossom, a little bit of leesy richness, light chalky mineral tones and a faint primary hint of almost unripe banana. With a few sniffs I'm thinking this wine smells like quintessential Chablis. The wine is clean, dry and wonderfully intense on the palate with fresh flavors of tart green apples, chalky minerality, some Asian pear, light steely nuances, a hint of tangy saline minerality and a fragrant touch of white flowers. Although the wine isn't as bracing in acidity as I'd want a classic Chablis to be, the wine is still wonderfully structured and precise with noticeably high acidity. The finish is crisp, dry and acid-driven with long and quite intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some tangy saline notes, a little bit of tart Granny Smith apple, light chalky mineral nuances, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of leesy creaminess.
This wine was tasted in a white Burgundy tasting after a few Chablis wines that didn't feel particularly Chablis in character yet turned out to be Chablis after all. While I didn't guess those wines were from Chablis, this wine made me immediately think not only Chablis, but also very classic and well-made example at that. Although still very youthful - the nose even coming across a bit primary - the outstanding quality was immediately obvious here. A remarkably combination of bright acidity, pronounced minerality, stunning flavor intensity and just right level of ripeness. Not particularly surprisingly, the wine turned out to be Raveneau, arguably the best producer in Chablis. This is just superb stuff. It is pretty pricey now at 70⏠for just for a basic-level Chablis, but if there ever was a producer that could actually deliver at that price, it's Raveneau. Excellent stuff - and expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(93 points) -
2017 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Mise Tardive - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from the Butteaux climat within the Montmains 1er Cru vineyard. Fermented spontaneously and aged for an extended period of 34 months, first in old oak demi-muids (as opposed to the 16-18 months for the regular Butteaux bottling), then in stainless steel tanks. Bottled in June 2020 with an addition of 20 mg/l SO2. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale yellow-green color. Fresh and somewhat green-toned nose that at times feels even slightly vegetal with aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some grassy greenness, light leafy notes of birch leaves, a little bit of apple peel and a hint of creaminess suggesting oak aging. Contrasting the fresh, slightly greenish nose, the wine is obviously very ripe, rich and concentrated on the palate with bold, dry flavors of spicy red apple, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light juicy notes of ripe white peach and cantaloupe, a hint of creamy oak and a mineral touch of chalky bitterness. Despite being quite big and ripe, the wine shows good, high acidity that makes the wine come across as fresh, firm and precise. The finish is long, dry and quite concentrated with intense flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some honeyed tones, a little bit of chalky mineral bitterness, light creamy tones, a hint of crunchy apple and a sweet touch of juicy peachy fruit.
I honestly didn't think this was Chablis, because the wine was so rich, ripe and concentrated, but I nevertheless thought it was very impressive and remarkably balanced for such a concentrated powerhouse of a wine. Thomas Pico's style is quite contrary to the traditionally lean, crisp and at times even austere style of Chablis, but his wines nevertheless retain great sense of freshness, balance and minerality. This is a superb Chardonnay that is still remarkably youthful and has a long life ahead, but if you want a crisp, lean Chablis, I suggest you keep on looking. The ripe, bold style here is more reminiscent of southern CĂŽtes de Beaune from warmer vintages, or even the exotic wines of MĂącon. Maybe not that typical, but delightful stuff all the same. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(93 points) -
2019 Domaine Christian Moreau PÚre et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from a 0,5 ha parcel in Grand Cru Vaudésir, averaging 21 years old. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 9 months in used oak barrels (1-to-5 yo barrels), then blended into stainless steel tanks and left to marry for another 6 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous yellow-green color. Ripe, youthful and quite seductive nose with somewhat sweet-toned and even slightly primary aromas of peach candies and ripe nectarine, some zesty citrus fruit notes, a little bit of banana, light creamy oak tones and a sweetish hint of apple jam. The wine is ripe and slightly sweet-toned but also very firm and acid-driven on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and youthful flavors of juicy Golden Delicious apple, some ripe pear tones, a little bit of sweet creamy oak, light succulent notes of white peach, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity lends great sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is lively and long with bright, crunchy acidity and somewhat primary flavors of ripe green apples, some sweet creamy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light candied notes of pear drops, a hint of sweet exotic fruit and a touch of tangy salinity.
A sophisticated but also very youthful and somewhat sweetish Grand Cru Chablis. Although all the wines in our small horizontal of three 2019 Moreau Grand Crus were very balanced, harmonious and balanced in style, I think this VaudĂ©sir was ultimately the least impressive, coming across as fruitier, sweeter and ever-so-slightly softer than the other two Grands Crus (Valmur and Les Clos). Nevertheless, this wine shows good promise and once the wine drops its baby fat and sweeter primary fruit character, I expect it will turn out pretty lovely indeed. Perhaps a bit pricey at approx. 61âŹ, though.
(91 points) -
2019 Domaine Christian Moreau PĂšre et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from two parcels totaling 1 ha in Grand Cru Valmur, averaging 61 years old. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 9 months in oak barrels - of which 5% were new and the rest 1-to-4 yo barrels - (60%) and stainless steel tanks (40%), then blended into stainless steel tanks and left to marry for another 6 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale whitish-green color. Slightly exotic but also remarkably restrained nose with reticent aromas of lemon curd, some ripe red apple, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of juicy stone fruit and a floral hint of apple blossom. No obvious oak characteristics. The wine is dry, clean and quite racy on the palate with some sense of concentration, a sleek medium body and slightly restrained flavors of zesty lemon-driven citrus fruits and steely minerality, some ripe yet sharp Granny Smith apple, a little bit of grapefruit, light creamy oak tones, a hint of smoky reduction and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The bracing acidity lends terrific sense of structure and electric energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, clean and racy with quite acid-driven flavors of steely minerality, some tart Granny Smith apple, light creamy notes of oak, a little bit of chalky minerality and a sweeter hint of ripe white peach.
A beautiful, classically built Grand Cru Chablis with the textbook minerality and racy acidity I look for in a proper Chablis. Although the wine shows obvious ripeness, it never comes across as particularly weighty or sweet, instead counterpointing the fruit ripeness with piercing minerality and incisive acidity so that the wine never loses that classic Chablis freshness. Although especially the nose, but also the taste to some degree were a bit closed - most likely due to subtle reduction - the wine was nevertheless very impressive by all accounts and seemed to evolve in the right direction with some air. As the wine seems to be more about future potential, I'd wait until its 10th birthday - by then the wine has most likely shed off its reductive qualities and hopefully developed some additional tertiary complexity as well. Riveting stuff, very highly recommended. Out of the three 2019 Christian Moreau Grand Crus we tasted, I'd say this was the only one I think was worth the 61⏠tariff.
(94 points) -
2019 Domaine Christian Moreau PĂšre et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from a 3 ha parcel in Grand Cru Les Clos, the plots averaging 52 to 61 years old. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 9 months in oak barrels - of which less than 5% were new and the rest 2-to-4 yo barrels - (50%) and stainless steel tanks (50%), then blended into stainless steel tanks and left to marry for another 6 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep youthful greenish color. Youthful and somewhat sweetish nose with intense aromas of ripe peach, some apple jam, light lactic notes of pear yogurt, light floral notes of apple blossom and a hint of stony minerality. The wine is ripe and juicy yet firm on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense, dry-ish and very youthful flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light chalky tones, a sweet hint of apple jam and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The bright, high acidity lends great sense of intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh and lively with a lengthy aftertaste of fresh apple sauce, some sweet notes of ripe white peach, light steely mineral tones, a little bit of chalky bitterness, crunchy hints of spicy red apple and a primary touch of ripe pear.
A very youthful and at times even primary Grand Cru Chablis that seems to hold a lot of potential for future development, but comes across as very ripe and rather sweet in its primary overall character at the moment. In our horizontal of three 2019 Christian Moreau Grand Crus, this wine covered the middle ground between the ripe, fruity and a bit softer Vaudésir and the racy, more mineral Valmur, showing characteristics from both the wines. While quite impressive with great sense of minerality and bright acidity, the wine felt a bit too primary and fruity for my preference, which is why I'd let the wine age for a good handful of years more. I can imagine this wine will show just beautifully once it drops some of that baby fat - the potential is definitely there. Perhaps not quite worth the 61⏠at the moment, but most likely things'll change as the wine ages.
(92 points) -
2019 Paul Pillot Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois Blanc - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from a 50-yo parcel in the Les Charmois vineyard. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 12 months in 350-liter oak barrels (10% new) and 6 months in stainless steel tanks. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale lime-green color. Dry, somewhat toasty and subtly reductive nose with aromas of zesty citrus fruits, some nutty oak tones, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light golden apple tones, a reductive hint of flint smoke or struck match and a sweet touch of lemon marmalade. The wine is ripe, broad and slightly toasty on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and bright flavors of creamy oak, some sweet notes of apple jam and lemon marmalade, light steely mineral tones, a little bit of chalky mineral bitterness, a flinty hint of smoky reduction and a mineral touch of wet stones. The pronounced, high acidity lends great sense of structure to the wine. The finish is firm, dry and lengthy with quite complex flavors of tart Granny Smith apple, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, light woody notes of savory oak spice and toasty nuttiness, a hint of chalky mineral bitterness and a touch of creamy oak.
A very delicious, harmonious and quite structure-driven 1er Cru St. Aubin that is still quite youthful and nervous in character. Although the wine is not particularly oaky by any standards, the toasty and woody tones are still somewhat to the fore and could use a bit more time to integrate better with the fruit. Otherwise the wine just lovely with a good combination of freshness, ripe fruit and cool minerality. Based on the intensity, acidity and fruit concentration, this wine is going to have a long life ahead - rather than drinking any wines now, I'd leave this wine in a cellar to evolve and improve. Very promising stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2019 Bruno Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois Blanc - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
100% Chardonnay from a parcel in the Les Charmois vineyard planted in 1959. Aged for 10 months in oak barrels (20-25% new) and 6 months in stainless steel tanks. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale whitish-green color. Quite restrained, dry nose with understated aromas of white peach, some creamy notes of oak, a little bit of savory old wood, light primary notes of gummi bear candies and a hint of chalk dust. The overall impression is and remains quite nondescript. The wine is dry and refreshing on the palate with a medium body and quite intense yet surprisingly restrained flavors of stony minerality, some mealy yellow apple, light savory notes of woody spice, light tangy notes of salinity, a pithy hint of slightly bitter lemon and a touch of woolly lanolin. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and precision to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and a bit reticent with light flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light woody tones and a hint of chalk dust.
An enjoyably refreshing and precise 1er Cru Burgundy, but also one that suffers from lack of fruit. I wonder whether the wine is just in a slump at the moment, blossoming at some time in the future, or if the style of this wine or vintage is just this reticent. The wine certainly isn't lacking in intensity, thanks to the wonderfully high acidity, but there is surprisingly little in the way of fruit or other flavors, so the wine comes across as both refreshing and dull at the same time. I really hope the wine will flesh out and become more expressive as it ages and (hopefully) develops some tertiary complexity. At the moment the wine is nice, but nothing special to write home about.
(87 points) -
2018 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
From a 0,26 parcel in 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or, planted in 1979. Vinified according to a minimal-intervention philosophy. Aged in oak barrels (20% new), bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal or no SO2. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep lime-green color. Ripe and somewhat sweet-toned nose with expressive aromas of peach, some apple jam, a little bit of creamy custard character, light floral notes of apple blossom and other white flowers, a mineral hint of chalk dust and a touch of woolly lanolin. The wine is ripe, broad and lively on the palate with a full body and youthful flavors of juicy white peach, mineral notes of chalk dust, a little bit of creamy oak, light stony minerality, light appley tones, a tangy hint of salinity and a faint touch of almost tannic grip. The rather high acidity keeps the wine deftly in balance so that the wine doesn't appear big or weighty despite its ripeness and full body. The finish is lively, rather long and quite acid-driven with pretty dry flavors of fresh red apple, some zesty citrus notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light spicy notes of savory wood, a hint of creaminess and a sweeter touch of ripe white fruits.
A rather big and vibrant yet very fresh, harmonious and lively 1er Cru Meursault that definitely shows the pronounced ripeness typical of the 2018, yet doesn't come across as too sweet, soft or blowzy in any way. On the contrary, the finesse and sense of freshness are remarkable here for a wine showing this much ripeness. There's no denying the wine is drinking mighty well right now, but I have no doubts this will continue improve for years more. Although I prefer white Burgundies from cooler vintages, this is one of the most successful 2018 Burgundies I've tasted! Recommended.
(92 points) -
2018 Domaine Vincent and Sophie Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées - France, Burgundy, CÎte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
Chardonnay sourced from parcels in 1er Cru Les Embrazées planted in 1962, 1987 and 2000. Aged for approximately 10 months in oak barrels (40% new). 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, light yellow color with neon-green highlights. Savory, moderately toasty and somewhat woody nose with slightly reductive aromas of flinty smoke, fresh red apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of salty sea air, light woolly notes of lanolin, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of sweet oak spice. the wine is big, ripe and quite full-bodied yet not particularly weighty on the palate. There are rich flavors of toasty oak spice, some savory wood, a little bit of reductive gunpowder smoke, light crunchy notes of fresh pineapple, a hint of exotic spice and an oaky touch of caramel. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine enjoyably fresh and structured. The finish is fresh, lively and crunchy with bright flavors of ripe golden apple, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of smoky reduction, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of creaminess and a touch of grilled pineapple.
A rich and ripe but still surprisingly balanced and harmonious 1er Cru Chassagne-Montrachet with rather obvious oak influence. Although the wine shows quite a bit of oak character, it doesn't come across as excessively oaked or unbalanced, just rather woody - up to the point I started wondering whether we had a new world ringer in our white Burgundy blind tasting. I really thought the wine reminded me of some well-made and balanced yet rather oaky Australian Chardonnays. Most likely the wine is going to remain rather oaky and "big" for many more years, but as the wine feels like it could age gracefully for many more years, there's a good possibility that this will turn out pretty lovely with enough patience. I'd love to revisit this wine after its 10th birthday.
(90 points) -
2019 Laurent Tribut Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis (23.2.2022)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale whitish-green color. Ripe, cool nose with aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple and lemon rind, some cool steely mineral notes, a little bit of wet stone, light flatulent nuances of reductive skunk, a hint of crushed oyster shells and a youthful touch of sweet creaminess. Contrasting the rather ripe and somewhat sweet-toned (yet mineral) nose, the wine is wonderfully clean, youthful and precise on the palate with dry and quite intense flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some lemony citrus notes, light stony mineral nuances, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, a hint of incisive steely character and a sweeter touch of ripe white peach. The bright, high acidity lends great intensity and freshness to the wine. The finish is fresh, bright and mouth-cleansing with ripe yet dry flavors of juicy golden apple, some zesty citrus fruit notes, a little bit steely minerality, light creamy nuances and a sweeter hint of ripe white peach.
A solid, balanced and very attractive Chablis with great sense of freshness, minerality and acidity. Contrasting this to the Tribut 1er Crus that we tasted, it's obvious that this wine is a bit lighter and lacking some of that concentration the wines higher up in the quality ladder showed. However, this wine didn't really feel like it was lacking in anything and at the moment it is everything I could ask for in a classic, mineral and acid-driven Chablis. I hope this wine doesn't turn as dull and woolly as the 2017 vintage we tasted at the same time. At approx. 35⏠this is a tad pricey for the quality, but nothing outrageous.
(90 points) -
2019 Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale whitish-green color. Dry, somewhat restrained and very mineral nose with aromas of gunmetal and chalk dust, some lemon juice, light salty notes of sea breeze, a little bit of fresh yellow apple, a hint of creaminess and a touch of crushed oyster shell. The wine feels crisp, bright and quite intense on the palate with a medium-plus body and dry flavors of tart Granny Smith apple, tangy salinity, some ripe citrus fruit tones, a little bit of chalky bitterness, light steely mineral nuances, a primary hint of fresh pear and a touch of creaminess that segues into waxy funk. The racy acidity lends great freshness and intensity to the wine. The finish is fresh, bright and zippy with firm, acid-driven flavors of lemony citrus fruits, steely minerality, some Granny Smith apple, a little bit of waxy funk, light sweet notes of ripe white fruits, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of creaminess.
A wonderfully crisp, racy and classically built 1er Cru Chablis that is exactly how I love my Chablis: bright, mineral and very high in acidity. The wine is obviously very youthful with almost primary nuances peeking through at times, but the wine remains wonderfully harmonious and well-proportioned all the same. It is drinking mighty well right now, but also shows good potential for future development. The difference to the regular 2019 Tribut Chablis that was tasted alongside was remarkable, even though the wine felt like they were cut from the same cloth. This wine is just at a different level. An outstanding wine and one of the best young Chablis wines I've had in a while. Highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2019 Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru CĂŽte de LĂ©chet - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Very pale, almost colorless whitish-green appearance. Restrained and slightly reduced nose with aromas of mealy yellow apple, some notes of hay, a little bit of flatulent reduction, light chalky mineral tones, a sweeter hint of white peach and a touch of woolly lanolin. The wine is ripe, crunchy and slightly concentrated on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of white peach, some mealy yellow apple, a little bit of cantaloupe, light steely mineral notes, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of fresh red apple. The bright, racy acidity lends great sense of structure and intensity to the wine. The acid-driven finish is lively, crisp and precise with flavors of sharp lemony citrus fruit and tart Granny Smith apple, some sweeter notes of cantaloupe, a little bit of ripe white peach, light mineral nuances of tangy salinity and a touch of chalk dust.
A very nice, crisp and bright 1er Cru Chablis. Perhaps lacking a bit that depth, precision and minerality that Tribut's 2019 1er Cru Beauroy showed, but not lagging that much behind. Perhaps the wine is just not showing that much nuance if it is suffering from a bit of reduction? It might be that the wine just remained a bit closed for now, but will open up nicely once it gets some age. All in all, a classically built, enjoyably racy and very promising effort. Fine stuff.
(92 points) -
2018 Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (23.2.2022)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat concentrated, medium-deep yellow-green color. Clean but also quite obviously ripe and concentrated nose with pretty sunny aromas of juicy Fuji apple and lemon marmalade, some woolly tones, a little bit of stony dust, light juicy notes of white peach, light floral nuances of blossoming cow parsley and a hint of fresh nectarine. The wine is dry and precise but also quite noticeably ripe on the palate with a relatively broad and concentrated overall feel for a Chablis. There are bright flavors of tart green apple and somewhat mealy red apple, a little bit of ripe nectarine, light floral notes of apple blossom, a mineral hint of stone dust and a touch of tangy salinity. The bright, high acidity keeps the wine wonderfully bright, fresh and almost electric despite its noticeable ripeness. The finish is ripe and juicy yet wonderfully dry and crisp with an acid-driven aftertaste of white peach, some steely minerality, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruit, light woolly notes, a mineral hint of chalk dust and a touch of tangy salinity.
After two quite lean 2019 Tribut Chablis 1er Crus, this 2018 came across as noticeably more ripe in character, showing more body, weight, sweetness of the fruit and slightly more exotic fruit character. However, for a 2018, this is still a wonderfully fresh, precise and acid-driven effort. It certainly shows the solar qualities of the 2018 vintage, but the wine isn't lacking in acidity or minerality in any way. My only fear is that the woolly tones - which were a bit more pronounced here than in the 2019s - will only come even more to the fore as the wine ages. I'm not really a big fan of those woolly notes as they seem to dull the fruit a bit, making the wine come across as less vibrant, lacking a bit in clarity, which is why I hope the wine will continue to improve in a direction where the woolly tones continue to stay in the background. At least the wine otherwise shows good sense of potential for future development, so my hunch is that there is no need to hurry with it - let it wait for a good handful of years more.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
