Yet another random selection of Burgundies both red and white, as a follow-up to our earlier similarly-themed sessions listed here:
- A Chablis-heavy round of white Burgundy (mainly 2017-2019)
- Burgundies old and young, big names and smaller players
We started off with a blind white, which I identified as a Jura Chardonnay quite immediately. Most of the Burgundies we tasted were quite nice, apart from the Durieux wines - I really don’t understand those. I can’t remember a single bottle of Durieux I have enjoyed.
- 2022 Jean Francois Ryon Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Les Coteaux du Val de Sorne - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (17.1.2024)
100% organically grown Chardonnay from the village of Vernantois. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 24 months in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale and slightly hazy lime green color. The nose feels fresh, sappy and crunchy with aromas of sharp Granny Smith apple, some leesy tones, a little bit of green currant, light herby notes, a flatulent hint of skunky reduction and a touch of lemon juice. The wine feels ripe and somewhat concentrated but also very dry, crunchy and quite electric on the palate with a medium body and intense, somewhat leesy flavors of tart Granny Smith apple, some lemony notes of citrus fruits, a little bit of tangy salinity, light sweeter notes of ripe white peach, a faint lifted hint of white wine vinegar and a touch of crunchy white currant. The acidity feels quite high - although not as high as you'd expect from a wine that hits your palate with so much electric tang and saline minerality! The palate-cleansing finish is long, fresh and crunchy with a brisk aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and saline minerality, some tart Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of leesiness, light lifted volatile notes, a hint of white currant and a sweeter touch of white peach.
A crisp, brisk and quite electric Chardonnay that is very true to the region - the wine was poured blind and my initial reaction was: this must be a Jura white. It isn't a traditional, aldehydic Jura with that oxidative voile funk, but instead a sharp, leesy and zippy white wine with more minerality than what you'd find in many other regions. And, well, it turned out to be a naturalist Jura Chardonnay! All in all, a terrific little white that could use some years to lose that tiny bit of reduction. Good value at approx. 20€.
(91 points) - 2020 Domaine Hoffmann-Jayer Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (17.1.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Chardonnay (2/3) and Pinot Blanc (1/3) from three parcels: Le Perchy in Magny-lès-Villers, and Sous le Mont and La Flie in Villers-la-Faye. The average vine age is 45 yo for Chardonnay and 65 yo for Pinot Blanc. Whole bunch pressed. Aged in 350-liter casks for 14 months, then another 6 months in tanks. Bottled unfined with a light filtration. 13% alcohol and 48 mg/l SO2. Total production 6200 bottles.
Pale, limpid yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat sweetish but also slightly indistinct with aromas of sweet oak spice, a little bit of creamy oak, light juicy notes of white fruits, a little bit of fresh apple and a faint hint of vegetal greenness. The wine feels broad, quite ripe and somewhat woody on the palate with a medium body and flavors of creamy oak and mineral notes of wet rocks, some vegetal notes of pea shoots and leafy greenness, a little bit of salinity, light woody tones, a sweeter hint of white peach and a touch of sweet Fuji apple. The moderately high acidity makes the mouthfeel quite balanced, but the flavors come across as a bit mild and understated. The finish is ripe, dry and moderately long with a slightly green-toned aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple, some woody notes, a little bit of vegetal character, light saline mineral notes, a hint of chalk dust and a touch of creamy oak.
While showing nice sense of balance and freshness in texture and structure, the overall feel was not that much to my liking. The oak influence seemed a bit too woody and overdone here - coming across as more prominent than the fruitier tones most of the time - and the light yet somewhat noticeable vegetal notes (which seem to be quite typical of many 2020 Burgundy whites) didn't really help. While not a bad wine in any way, I can't honestly say that this would be a wine I'd buy for myself. I hope aging will help with the woody notes, but I doubt any amount of waiting can help with the green, leafy qualities. Feels moderately overpriced at approx. 40€.
(82 points) - 2021 Benoit Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (17.1.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Chardonnay from eight different parcels around Chassagne-Montrachet. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 18 months in predominantly old oak barrels. 13% alcohol. Bottle #2497.
Pale, youthful whitish-green color with faint lemon-yellow highlights. The nose feels surprisingly reticent and understated with light aromas of sweet tropical fruits, some creamy oak spice, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke and a faint primary hint of fruit drops. The wine feels youthful, clean and quite broad yet still firm with a medium-to-moderately full body and somewhat understated flavors of creamy oak, some sweet wood spice, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light stony mineral notes, a hint of salinity and a touch of spicy red apple. The high acidity lends good sense of structure and energy to the wine. The finish is lively, crisp and quite long with flavors of fresh white fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light creamy tones, a hint of toasty character and a touch of grilled pineapple.
A somewhat quiet and understated but still quite attractive white Burgundy. Shows good sense of nuance and freshness, but maybe lacking a bit in substance. I hope the wine opens up and picks up some sense of weight as it ages, as it is somewhat underwhelming at the moment. There's good sense of finesse, but in our tasting of white Burgundies, this was among the lightest and most delicate wines. While a thoroughly enjoyable wine in its own right, the price (approx. 120€) doesn't really make any sense.
(90 points) - 2020 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Hommage à Louis - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (17.1.2024)
100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru Chablis vineyard averaging 40 yo. The wine is in a sort of bureaucratic limbo: according to INAO, the parcel from which the grapes come from is located entirely in Grand Cru Les Clos, but according to the French customs, the parcel is located partially in Les Clos and partially in Valmur. The wine is named after Louis Droin, who planted the original parcel in 1920. Fermented spontaneously, aged partly in oak barrels, partly in stainless steel. 13% alcohol.
Pale, youthful and rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels clean, rather ripe and a bit restrained with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of juicy red apples, some honeyed tones, a little bit of waxy character, light green herby notes - almost but not quite bordering on leafy - along with a sweet hint of candied primary fruit. The wine feels ripe, broad and quite substantial on the palate - for a Chablis, that is - with a rather full body and quite youthful and juicy flavors of sweet white peach and fresh nectarine, some creamy and sweetly-spiced oak tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light honeyed nuances, mineral hints of wet rocks and salinity and a touch of spicy red apple. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is long, ripe and quite acid-driven with a dry aftertaste of juicy white peach, some ripe red apple, light saline and stony mineral notes, a little bit of toasty oak spice, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of creaminess.
A nice, tasty and quite substantial - but not heavy - Chardonnay that feels more like a Côte de Beaune white than a Grand Cru Chablis to me. There's quite a bit of ripeness and oak here, which mask those zippy, mineral flavors typical of Chablis and make the wine feel more like its southerly cousins. There was a tiniest hint of leafy greenness in the nose - a quality I find in many 2020 Chablis wines, and which I'm not a fan of - but fortunately it remained very subtle and didn't really extend to the wine's taste at any point, so it didn't really become a distraction at any point. All in all, an impressive and enjoyable white - maybe not the most classically styled effort for a Chablis, but if you like a ripe and somewhat oaky white Burgundy, you'd never guess this comes from Chablis. Maybe a tad expensive for the quality at approx. 80€, but I guess that applies to almost any Grand Cru Chablis.
(92 points) - 2021 Domaine Chanterêves Marsannay Rosé - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé (17.1.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir from Marsannay. Pressed slowly over six hours. Fermented spontaneously with a pied de cuve. 13% alcohol.
Quite pale and moderately hazy peach reddish-orange appearance with a colorless rim. The nose feels somewhat funky and not that attractive with aromas of meaty funk, some appley tones, a little bit of wet rock minerality, light damp earth tones, a hint of strawberries, a touch of meat stew and a pilsner-like whiff of herby noble hops. Contrasting the nose, the wine is pretty clean and vibrant on the palate with a medium body and bright, crunchy flavors of ripe yellow fruits, some stony and saline mineral notes, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light tart notes of borderline under-ripe redcurrants, a hint of funky animale character and a touch of leesy creaminess. The high acidity makes the wine feel enjoyably fresh and structured. The finish is crisp and lively with a rather long and crunchy aftertaste of redcurrants, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of tart Granny Smith apple, light lemony notes of citrus fruits, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of herby spices.
Although the nose felt a bit odd and disagreeable, the wine turned out to be wonderfully bright and refreshing on the palate. You can taste (and see!) that the wine is made with a hands-off approach, but despite the funk in the nose, the wine never once comes across as faulty or too natty. A fun rosé - maybe not that serious per se, but a thoroughly enjoyable and somewhat idiosyncratic effort that will basically drink itself on a hot summer's day.
(89 points) - 2020 Domaine de Cassiopée Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Les Côtes Rouge - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (17.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir harvested on September 9th from a 1-hectare parcel planted 55 years ago near Maranges. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, neutral oak casks ranging from 228 to 450 liters. Bottled with a tiny addition of SO2. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep cherry red color.The nose feels dry and slightly meaty with savory aromas of brambly raspberries and old wood, some old leather tones, a little bit of sour cherry, light earthy notes, hints of spicy Pinosity and coniferous forest and a touch of oak spice. The wine feels ripe, juicy and quite sinewy on the palate with a medium body and suave flavors of cherries and exotic spices, some ripe black raspberries, a little bit of old leather, light woody notes of savory oak spice, hints of earth and gravelly minerality and a touch of tart lingonberry. The high acidity and gently grippy medium tannins make the overall feel firm and balanced. The finish is dry, savory and gently grippy with a crunchy aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some savory wood spice, light sour cherry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, a hint of earth and a touch of meaty umami.
A tasty, harmonious and sophisticated Hautes-Côtes de Beaune red. The wine shows that ripeness that is typical of the 2020 vintage, but the overall feel is still dry, fresh and red-toned - not sweet, burly and dark-toned - which makes the wine feel wonderfully poised and balanced. Serious stuff with good potential for future development - although the wine is quite approachable already now. Very nice.
(92 points) - 2020 Domaine Hoffmann-Jayer Côte de Nuits Villages Clos de Magny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (17.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from a 0,4-hectare (1 acre) Clos de Magny, where the average vine age is approximately 55 years. The fully destemmed grapes are fermented and macerated with the skins for three weeks. Aged for 21 months in oak barrels, then blended and aged for another 2 months in vats. 13% alcohol. Total production 400 bottles.
Medium-deep, youthful and luminous ruby-red color that permits quite a lot of light through. The nose feels dark-toned, fruity and ripe yet still vaguely green-toned with aromas of blackberries, some inky tones, a little bit of vegetal pickle relish character, light brambly notes of raspberries, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a touch of toasty oak spice. The wine feels ripe, juicy and surprisingly brisk on the palate with a medium body and quite dark-toned yet still fresh flavors of tart lingonberries, some sweet black cherry tones, light inky tones, a little bit of pickle relish, a hint of gravelly minerality and a vaguely green-toned touch of raspberry leaf tea. The bright, zippy acidity lends great sense of freshness and precision to the wine, while the ripe medium tannins bring nice sense of firmness and texture to the mouthfeel. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with flavors of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light green nuances of pickle relish and raspberry leaf tea, a hint of ripe cranberry and a touch of dark plummy fruit. The medium tannins make the wine end on a firm yet gently grippy note.
This is a classic example of the 2020 Burgundy dichotomy: the wine is very dark-toned and also quite ripe in style, suggesting a very warm vintage - yet it is also very fresh with its surprisingly high, zippy acidity! All in all, this would've been a very lovely and balanced red Burg, if it weren't for the somewhat odd pickle character that lends a slightly distracting green element both to the nose and to the taste. I have no idea if it is something that is still somewhat noticeable due to the young age of the wine and will disappear as the wine ages, or if it something that will just stay there. Whatever it is, it does take a toll on the pleasure - I'm not really a fan of any green notes in a Pinot Noir. I really hope it is something that will go away as the wine ages, because this is otherwise a fine, wonderfully acid-driven red Burg.
(88 points) - 2019 Yann Durieux Night Cost - France, Vin de France (17.1.2024)
A naturalist Pinot Noir from a parcel in Hautes-Côtes de Nuits near Nuit-Saint-Georges. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for a month. Aged in concrete cube tanks. 13% alcohol. Lot number LNCYD19.
Youthful and rather hazy - even somewhat cloudy - and quite murky cherry-red color. The nose feels noticeably natty with an aroma that reminds me of bio waste container with all kinds of vegetable matter along with some orange peels, followed by lighter animale nuances, a little bit of leathery funk, a hint of crunchy cranberry, a touch of brambly raspberry and a vinegary whiff of acetic VA. The nose feels like a red flag for mousiness. The wine feels lively, lifted and quite natty on the palate with a medium body and playful flavors of sweet raspberries and fresh cherries, some funky notes of earth, leather and barnyard, a little bit of sweet ethery VA and vinegary tang, light wild strawberry nuances, a hint of orange rind and a touch of cranberry juice. The acidity feels high and the tannins are pretty light and gentle. The finish is dry, crunchy and somewhat grippy with a rather long and quite natty aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of leathery funk and barnyard, light cranberry juice nuances, a hint of gravelly minerality and - after a little while - a nutty, slightly unclean touch of mousy THP.
For a Durieux wine, this could be better, but this could also be a lot worse. I've had some very acetic and/or horribly mousy wines, so in that sense this is a lot better than those wines - the VA feels quite elevated, but still somewhat manageable - and the mousiness is only a slight suggestion, not an overwhelming whack of Cheerios. If you take those things into account, this is a rather pleasant and thoroughly drinkable effort. But then again, this is also a red Burgundy with way too much VA and a slight hint of mousiness, both of which I consider major flaws. I can't say I'm a fan. Paying 85€ for a wine like this feels like a miserable joke.
(78 points) - 2018 Yann Durieux CDN - France, Vin de France (17.1.2024)
A naturalist Pinot Noir from a parcel in Hautes-Côtes de Nuits near Nuit-Saint-Georges. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for a month. Aged in oak barrels for 24 months. 13% alcohol. Lot number LCDNYD18.
Dark, slightly hazy blood-red color. The nose feels brooding, dark-toned and somewhat toasty with quite naturalist and not-so-Burgundian aromas of wizened figs, some balsamico notes of VA, a little bit of leathery funk, light stewed raisiny tones, a hint of dusty earth, a touch of barnyard and a whiff of sour cherries. The wine feels dry, dense and rather tough on the palate with a medium body and rather weird flavors of sweet oak spice and toasty mocha oak, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light sun-baked nuances of wizened figs and prunes, funky hints of phenolic bitterness and animale character and a lifted touch of VA. The wine is quite high acidity with surprisingly assertive, tough and grippy tannins. The finish is long, tough and very grippy with a wild aftertaste of woody oak spice and toasty mocha character, some sauvage funky tones, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light solar notes of dried dark fruits, a hint of acetic VA and - with some air - a touch of mousiness.
Ugh. This was a very unbalanced and not particularly enjoyable effort - a mediocre product even by Durieux standards. The wine feels big, ripe and clumsy; the fruit has a baked, pruney quality; the tannins are atypically tough, grippy and extracted, making the wine feel aggressively astringent and even somewhat bitter; the wine has a weird, disjointed toasty oak sheen overlaid on top of the stewed fruit flavors; and to top it all off, the wine ends on a slightly unclean, vaguely mousy nuance. There's really nothing Burgundian here. At 95€ this wine feels like daylight robbery.
(63 points) - 2020 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (17.1.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from multiple parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet. About 1/3 of the grapes are vinified in whole bunches. Fermented and aged in predominantly old 350-liter oak barrels for 12 months. 12% < 14,5% alcohol, according to the label.
Quite translucent, youthful and rather pale ruby-red color with an almost colorless rim. The nose feels relatively understated but also quite attractive and nuanced with aromas of fresh red cherries, some raspberry tones, a little bit of sweet strawberry, light juicy notes of ripe red stone fruits and a hint of spicy Pinosity. The wine feels fresh, clean and silky on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of tart lingonberries and brambly raspberries, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of dark-toned spice and toasty oak, light sweeter notes of wild strawberries and black raspberries, a fragrant hint of exotic spices and a touch of ripe sour cherry. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity as the silky tannins come across as very friendly and supple, not contributing much to the structure or to the texture. The finish is ripe, vibrant and juicy with a moderately long aftertaste of red-toned fruits, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry, light toasty oak tones, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of stony minerality.
An elegant, attractive and tasty Chassagne-Montrachet. Unlike many 2020 Burgs, this feels quite bright and red-toned in nature. There's definitely some ripeness, but the acidity still comes across as high, zippy and enjoyably structured. While a lovely wine in its own right, the wine feels just a nice, stylistically correct red Burgundy. There's nothing wrong with it - I just find it a bit hard to get excited about it. The overall feel is so clean and pure-fruited that there is nothing that would make this wine stand apart from any other red Burgundy. I enjoy this wine quite a bit, but it really doesn't move me in any way.
(90 points) - 2020 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (17.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from a 50-yo parcel beneath 1er Cru Les Morgeots. 50% destemmed, 50% whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, aged for approximately 18 months in 300 to 500 liter oak barrels (10% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and only slightly translucent black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned, fragrant and a bit sweet with attractive, still slightly primary aromas of black cherries and licorice root, some ripe strawberry tones, a little bit of juicy blackberry, light floral notes of violets, a hint of red licorice and a touch of candied primary fruit. The wine feels rich, sweetly-fruited and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and ripe flavors of juicy black cherries and strawberries, some blackberry tones, a little bit of sweet plummy fruit, light floral notes of violets, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of red licorice. The overall feel is balanced and textural with a tiny bit of alcohol heat, rather high acidity and gentle, supple medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and textural with a rather long aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some sweet black cherry tones, a little bit of strawberry, light floral notes of violets, a hint of brambly blackberry and a touch of dry, woody oak.
A rich, sophisticated and textural Chassagne-Montrachet with a rather ripe and dark-toned overall character. The wine feels thoroughly enjoyable and balanced, but it is a bit too sweetly-fruited and dark-toned for my preference. Fortunately there's enough acidity to keep the wine fresh and harmonious. Hopefully the wine will lose its baby fat and those sweet, candied primary fruit flavors as it ages. I enjoy the purity and vibrancy here, but I could do with a bit less ripeness and sweet fruit.
(91 points) - 2018 Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (17.1.2024)
13,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and dark but still moderately translucent cherry-red color. The nose feels rich, solar and rather sweet-toned with quite lush aromas of black cherries and ripe dark berries, some brambly black raspberries, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light blueberry notes, a juicy hint of strawberry and a touch of earthy spice. The wine feels ripe, gentle and silky-textured on the palate with a moderately full body and quite ripe flavors of sweet black raspberries, some plummy fruit, light blueberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of sweet oak spice. The acidity feels moderately high and the ripe medium tannins contribute mainly to the texture, not to the structure. The finish is ripe, juicy and quite gently grippy with a soft, moderately long aftertaste of black cherries, some plummy tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of brambly raspberry.
A ripe, juicy and quite balanced Chassagne-Montrachet red that can't hide the impact of the warm vintage. There's a lot of fruit, which isn't problematic per se, but as the wine is both rather sweet-toned and a bit lacking of freshness and structure, the overall impression isn't particularly impressive. Contrasting this to the wonderfully fresh, poised and delicate 2017 vintage of the same wine, it feels like these two wines came from two different planets - you can see they come from the same region, but stylistically they are two polar opposites. I hope the wine would pick up some sense of finesse and elegance as it ages, but I'm not holding my breath. Feels a tad pricey for the quality at 42,80€.
(89 points) - 2015 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Le Chapitre - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (17.1.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir from a vineyard in Marsannay with parcels planted in 1950, 1960 and 1990. Vinified in whole clusters. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 18 months in oak barrels. 13,2% alcohol.
Dark, hazy and slightly murky pomegranate color. The nose feels fragrant, lifted and quite wild with aromas of bretty funk and orange rind, some ripe dark forest fruits, a little bit of brambly blackberry, light volatile nuances, a hint of earthiness and a floral touch of stemmy character. The wine feels ripe, silky and slightly wild on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe dark berries, some lifted notes of VA, a little bit of bretty barnyard funk and orange rind character, light boysenberry tones, a hint of sweet red cherry and a touch of earth. Some people who got to taste the wine earlier noticed a tiniest bit of CO2 tingle, but I didn't notice anything by the time I got to taste the wine. Its medium-to-moderately high acidity is a bit on the soft and modest side for a Burgundy, but at least the moderately grippy medium-plus tannins bring some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is rich, juicy and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of black cherries, some lifted volatile notes, a little bit of wild strawberry, light boysenberry tones, a funky hints of leather, barnyard and orange zest and a touch of brambly black raspberry.
A tasty, harmonious and sophisticated Marsannay that is maybe a bit too much on the funky side. Not too much in the sense that the wine would be unapproachable, because it definitely isn't! This is a thoroughly enjoyable wine - I just feel it would come across as more vibrant with more sense of freshness without that excessive volatile acidity. The bretty notes don't bother me that much, but I guess less would be more in that department, too. Furthermore, the wine is maybe a bit too much on the ripe, soft and dark-toned side for my preference - I guess this wine would perform so much better in a cooler vintage! There's just no escaping the solar qualities of the warm 2015 vintage.
(90 points) - 2014 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Clos du Roy - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (17.1.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir from Clos du Roy, the northernmost lieu-dit in Marsannay, more specifically from parcels planted in 1952, 1965, 1978, 2001, 2003 and 2006. Vinified in whole clusters. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 18 months in oak barrels, then for a few months in stainless steel. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, slightly evolved ruby-red color with a subtly maroon hue. The nose feels ripe, clean and maybe a bit understated with attractive, quite fruit-driven aromas of crunchy dark berries, some licorice root, a little bit of blackcurrant marmalade, light notes of black Bassett's wine gums, a hint of ripe red cherry and a touch of brambly black raspberry. The wine feels clean, vibrant and quite fresh on the palate with a medium body and bright yet slightly reticent flavors of brambly raspberries and ripe strawberries, some darker-toned notes of licorice root and black Bassett's wine gums, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tart lingonberry, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a funky touch of phenolic spice. The structure relies more on the fresh and rather high acidity rather than on the ripe, supple and quite resolved medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe, fresh and juicy with flavors of ripe raspberries and blackberries, some earthy spice, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of licorice root and a touch of sweet strawberry.
A clean, sophisticated and classically styled red Burgundy - something that is not always a given when it comes to the Pataille wines. Some wines can be excessively funky or volatile, but this wine is wonderfully pure-fruited with only a tiny bit of funky phenolic spice suggest that the wine is made according to a hands-off philosophy. While not really a grand vin the wine is wonderfully nuanced and fine-tuned, making it a lovely drink on its own - although it will pair with many lighter dishes with ease. Not young anymore, nor particularly aged, either - I can imagine this wine will continue to keep and evolve for a good handful of years more.
(93 points) - 2008 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges (17.1.2024)
13% alcohol.
Translucent, moderately evolved brick-red color with a brownish hue. The nose feels old and somewhat tired with aromas of meat stew and beef jerky, some wizened dark berries, a little bit of earth, light sharp notes of soy sauce, a hint of cranberry sauce and a touch of ripe red plums. The wine feels evolved, silky and somewhat tired on the palate with a medium body and moderately oxidative flavors of meat stew, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of beef jerky, light soy sauce notes, a hint of wizened raspberries and a touch of earth. The structure relies more on the bright, high acidity than on the supple, resolved and quite light tannins. The finish is developed, somewhat tired and moderately oxidative with a medium-long aftertaste of ripe cranberries, some meaty notes of game, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light plummy nuances, a hint of soy sauce and a touch of meat stew.
Although the wine hadn't completely fallen apart, but was still somewhat enjoyable, it nevertheless felt much more evolved and oxidative than a 15-yo NSG should be. Disappointing. - 2008 David Duband Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (17.1.2024)
13% alcohol.
Somewhat evolved and quite translucent brick-red color. The nose feels surprisingly light and understated, but also very nuanced and quite attractive with layered aromas of wild strawberries and fresh dark berries, some sweeter black cherry tones, a little bit of developed complexity and autumnal notes, light floral nuances of violets, a hint of wizened strawberry and a touch of forest floor. While quite seductive, I still wish the nose showed a bit more intensity. The wine feels silky, harmonious and supple on the palate with a medium body and nuanced flavors of ripe red cherries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of wizened red plum, light saline mineral tones, a hint of forest floor and a touch of ripe raspberry. The overall feel is a bit on the soft side, due to the medium-plus acidity and very gentle, resolved tannins. The finish is ripe and somewhat evolved yet quite fresh with a long, slightly sweetly-fruited aftertaste of juicy raspberries and strawberries, some dried cherries, a little bit of saline minerality, light autumnal notes of forest floor and a hint of wilted flowers.
An elegant and very fine-tuned Chambolle-Musigny with more emphasis on the subtle nuances than on the structure. While showing good sense of complexity, the nose feel very light and delicate and the overall feel is a bit soft. Yet still, this was a very lovely effort and most likely the wine is peaking now - assuming we had a representative bottle. With a bit more aroma intensity and higher acidity this would've been a real stunner, but even now this was a terrific effort.
(93 points) - 2008 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru (17.1.2024)
13% alcohol.
Deep, dark and somewhat translucent maroon color. The nose feels dull and cheery with funky aromas of Gruyère, some raisiny tones, a little bit of damp earth, light decomposing wood tones and a hint of soy sauce. The wine feels crunchy, sinewy and quite dull on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of tired red fruits, some cheesy notes of Gruère, a little bit of dried fig, light musty notes of damp earth, a hint of decomposing wood and a touch of meat stew. The acidity feels high and the tannins come across as moderately tough and drying. The finish is dry, tough and quite grippy with a dull, medium-long aftertaste of dried dark berries, some meat stew, a little bit of damp earth, light funky cheesy tones and a hint of soy sauce.
Ugh. Fully oxidized and quite goners. I suppose a 15½-yo shouldn't be this dead this soon?
(NR/flawed)
Posted from CellarTracker