Here are a bunch of tasting notes from a tasting where we had just a lot of old wines. Unfortunately most of the wines were already past their peak - and many of those that weren’t, weren’t particularly good either.
We also had a few mags - one simple red Burgundy as a sipper while we were waiting for the tasting to start and two mags of Sancerre as food wines with the restaurant fare. And, as always, a few extra blinds for the heck of it.
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2018 Louis Philibert Coteaux Bourguignons - France, Burgundy, Coteaux Bourguignons (1.6.2022)
Served from a magnum. No idea about the variety or varieties used here. 13% alcohol.
Deep cherry color that permits a little light through. The nose feels juicy and rather sweetish with aromas of ripe red cherries, some dark-toned spicy notes, a little bit of ferrous blood and juicy notes of sweet black raspberries. The wine is dry, juicy moderately ripe on the palate with a medium body and somewhat linear flavors of ripe dark berries, some vague metallic tones, a little bit of savory spice, light juicy cherry tones and a hint of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is a bit on the soft side, thanks to the ripe and gentle tannins and the medium-to-moderately high acidity. The finish is ripe and juicy with a tiny bit of tannic grip and medium-long flavors of ripe dark berries, some black raspberry tones, a little bit of fresh red cherry, light earthy notes of savory spice and a hint of gravelly minerality.
A nice and pleasant little red Burgundy with quite a little in the way of personality. This is obviously made to be a simple sipper, not a serious and impressive wine that would offer awe-inspiring complexity or could be aged extensively. But then again, at 15€ for a magnum, you really don't expect to see that kind of stuff at that price level. I found the wine otherwise very nice, but felt it was a bit lacking in the structure department, coming across as a bit soft for the style. All in all, this is an drinkable everyday red but nothing special to write home about.
(82 points) -
2019 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (1.6.2022)
100% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented spontaneously and aged in stainless steel. 12,5% alcohol. Served from a magnum.
Pale, limpid yellow-green color. Youthful, clean and quite fruit-forward nose with aromas of fresh apple, some ripe yellow gooseberry, a little bit of golden currant, light primary notes of pear and a sweeter hint of cantaloupe. The wine feels ripe, somewhat round and quite full-bodied with somewhat rich flavors of sweet white peach, some appley tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light juicy nuances of ripe gooseberry and a hint of sweet herby tones. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine in balance, although doesn't feel high enough to lend that zip so typical of Sauvignon Blanc to this wine. The finish is juicy, somewhat round and quite long with flavors of ripe cantaloupe, some sweet notes of juicy Golden Delicious apple, a little bit of white peach, light gooseberry tones and a hint of crunchy green currant.
A nice, round and balanced Sauvignon Blanc. What's nice here is that the wine has attained enough ripeness so that it doesn't come across as herbaceous and aggressively vegetal and Sauvignon Blancs can be. However, that ripeness is also a minor setback here as well, as the wine is a bit too ripe, round and full-bodied for my preference - although I don't like my Sauvignons too green, I don't like them too big and soft either. I prefer wines with more verve precision. This was enjoyable and thoroughly drinkable, but nothing I'd actively look for if i was searching for a good Sauvignon Blanc from Loire. Priced according to its quality at 35€ for a magnum.
(87 points) -
2018 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rouge La Bondenotte - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre Rouge (1.6.2022)
A Pinot Noir from a 3-hectare vineyard, of which Jolivet owns 0,86 hectares. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel, aged for 11 months in 228-liter Burgundy pièces. 12,5% alcohol. Served from a magnum.
Dark, luminous and slightly translucent blackish-red color. The nose feels quite primary and somewhat restrained with youthful and pretty sweet-toned but also light aromas of chokeberries and blueberries, some inky tones, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light nuances of savory spices and a hint of old wood. The wine is dry, firm and quite crunchy on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of tart lingonberries and fresh blackcurrants, some candied primary notes of Bassett's wine gums, a little bit of wild strawberry, light brambly notes of black raspberries and a hint of stony minerality. The high acidity lends great sense of structure to the wine, supported by gently grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy and quite fruit-forward yet wonderfully firm with dry flavors of ripe cranberries and brambly black raspberries, some crunchy blackcurrants, a little bit of tart lingonberry and a sweet hint of juicy bilberry.
A very nice, bright and fresh Pinot Noir that feels very fruit-forward and even slightly primary, yet not at all too sweet, soft or candied in character. The overall taste is dry, pure and bright with a nice, understated touch of minerality. This was much better than I expected, especially from the warm vintage. While drinking really well right now, I can see this wine improving even further as it ages and loses its candied primary character and develops some tertiary complexity. A terrific purchase at approx. 35€ for a magnum.
(90 points) -
2018 Dominio del Pidio Albillo Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1.6.2022)
100% Albillo Mayor, fermented in concrete tanks and aged for 8 months in oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #4429 of total 4568 bottles.
Pale straw yellow color. The nose feels quite fragrant, but surprisingly understated in the fruit department with nuanced aromas of hay and waxy richness, some wizened apple tones, light honeyed notes, a little bit of something vaguely plastic and a nutty hint of chopped almonds. The wine is waxy, slightly viscous and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with flavors of almonds and hay, some fresh golden apple tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light fragrant nuances of dried aromatic herbs and a hint of savory oak spice. The medium-plus acidity keeps the wine somewhat balanced, but doesn't really bring that much freshness or structure to the wine. The finish is dry, round and medium in length with an aftertaste of creamy oak, some hay, a little bit of fresh golden apple, light waxy tones, a hint of honeydew melon and a woody touch of savory old oak.
A rich, nuanced and slightly understated Spanish white that emphasizes non-fruit flavors rather than any rich fruit notes. This thing could work well if the wine was otherwise fresh and zippy, but with its a bit bigger body, slightly viscous texture and acidity that is a bit on the modest side, the wine comes across as a bit soft and dull. It's not a bad wine, but nothing I'd actively seek out for. Feels also a bit expensive for the quality at approx. 45€.
(84 points) -
2021 Saint Croix Vineyards Frontenac Blanc - USA, Minnesota (1.6.2022)
A semi-dry Frontenac Blanc from vineyards in Stillwater near Minneapolis. 13% alcohol.
Pale greenish color. Very sweet, even tropical nose with aromas of pear marmalade, some floral tones, a little bit of papaya, light grapey nuances and a hint of green beans. The wine feels balanced and somewhat tropical on the palate with a medium body and off-dry, slightly Sauvignon Blanc-like flavors of grapey fruit and primary pear drop tones, some juicy apple tones, a little bit of passion fruit, light floral nuances, a hint of papaya and a touch of ripe white currant. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is quite long and fruity with rather tropical off-dry flavors of passion fruit, some crunchy white currant notes, a little bit of primary grapey fruit, light candied notes of pear drops and a hint of guava.
A nice, balanced and quite tasty effort for an off-dry white wine made with hybrid grapes. There's nothing foxy here, but the combination of rather fresh cool-climate character and quite pronounced tropical fruit flavors takes a bit of adjustment. Nevertheless, this is pretty nice and enjoyable stuff all the same. With its a bit exuberant and noticeably fruit-forward character and off-dry taste the wine feels quite linear and maybe even a bit banal, but as a simple everyday sipper this goes perfectly fine. Priced according to its quality at $16,95.
(86 points) -
1970 Siglo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (1.6.2022)
A Rioja Crianza where the bottled is wrapped in "saco", that recognizable jute sack.
Dark, almost fully opaque and quite oxidative syrupy brown color. Pungent, oxidative nose with aromas of syrupy richness and sharp, nutty notes of rancio, some soy sauce tones, a little bit of mushroomy funk, light raisiny notes and a hint of dried dates. The wine is dry, silky smooth yet oxidative on the palate with a medium body and tired flavors of nutty rancio, sweet dried-fruit notes of raisins and dried dates, a little bit of syrupy richness, light earthy notes of damp soil, a hint of mushroomy funk and a salty touch of soy sauce. The wine is quite high in acidity but there are no tannins to speak of. The finish is quite long, silky smooth and rather savory with oxidative flavors of soy sauce and nutty rancio, some syrupy tones, a little bit of dried dates and figs and a hint of earth.
This is pretty tired and quite dead for a +50-yo Rioja. I know some Rioja wines have been remarkably young for their age when clocking in at half a century, but this definitely is not one of them. Granted, if you like old, oxidative wines - like I do - this isn't actually bad. The wine isn't repulsive in any way and there is still good sense of balance between the body, the structure and the flavors. But while still relatively drinkable for such an old wine, there is no argument that this wine is completely goners.
(NR/flawed) -
1982 La Rioja Alta Rioja Club de Cosecheros Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (1.6.2022)
A special bottle of Rioja Reserva made for Club de Cosecheros, the oldest wine club in Spain, by La Rioja Alta. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Viura. 12% alcohol.
Evolved and quite pale rusty-red color with an almost colorless rim. The nose feels aged and savory with dry aromas of leather and raw meat, some stewed strawberries, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light dill notes, a hint of earth and a sanguine touch of iron. The wine is dry, crunchy and moderately tertiary on the palate with a medium body and mature flavors of wizened red plums, some dill notes, a little bit of tart cranberry and lingonberry, light ferrous notes of meaty umami, a hint of old saddle leather and a touch of vanilla. The wine still retains good sense of structure with its high acidity and quite resolved, gently grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and lively with quite acid-driven flavors of crunchy cranberries, some leathery notes, a little bit of dill, light earthy nuances and a hint of sour cherry bitterness.
A nice, evolved and quite tertiary Rioja Reserva at its peak or perhaps ever so slightly past it. Very similar to the 1989 vintage of the same wine, only perhaps slightly older and more evolved in character. This is pretty much what you'd expect from a 40-yo Rioja Reserva. Good stuff, better to drink sooner than later.
(91 points) -
1996 Enate Somontano Crianza - Spain, Aragón, Somontano (1.6.2022)
A blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, the varieties vinified separately; fermented in stainless steel and aged for 9 months in American (Tempranillo) and French (Cabernet Sauvignon) oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Aged, somewhat translucent dried blood-colored appearance. The nose feels sweet and tertiary with very evolved aromas of wizened cherries, some meaty tones of game and meat stew, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, light woody notes of savory oak and a hint of dried dates. The wine feels dry and quite aged on the palate with a quite full body and savory flavors of dried sour cherries, some dried figs and raisiny tones, a little bit of meat stew, light oxidative notes of soy sauce and nutty rancio, a hint of syrupy sweetness and a touch of wizened blackcurrants. The wine still retains quite a bit of structure with its high acidity and still somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is savory and aged with a long, somewhat oxidative aftertaste of dried figs, some syrupy tones, a little bit of meat stew, light raisiny tones, a sweet hint of wizened blackcurrants and a subtly tart touch of fresh red plum.
A drinkable but already somewhat oxidative Somontano red that has seen better days. The wine still retains good sense of structure, but the overall fruit department has started to turn quite oxidized and retains only a smidgen of vibrant fruit. Overall it feels the wine might've developed some nice aged complexity at some point, but the oxidative qualities have overwhelmed most of them, making the wine feel just an anonymous, senescent Spanish red. Time to drink up - the wine is going to go in only one direction, and that is not up.
(83 points) -
1997 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1.6.2022)
100% Tempranillo. Aged for 18 months in American oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Deep, aged black cherry color with a tertiary, syrupy-brown hue. The nose feels dusty, aged and somewhat tired with rather tertiary aromas of beef jerky, some wizened dark fruits, a little bit of smoke and a hint of earth. Quite little of anything here. The wine feels aged, somewhat oxidative and rather tired on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and savory flavors of tangy rancio, some salt-cured beef notes, a little bit of sweet raisiny fruit, light earthy notes, a tertiary hint of wizened red plums and a touch of meat stew. The wine is quite high in acidity with rather resolved, gently grippy tannins. The finish is savory, subtly grippy and moderately acid-driven with quite oxidative flavors of soy sauce, some beef jerky, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light sweet notes of raisiny fruit and a hint of earth.
The wine is starting to be quite tired and flat, getting borderline dead. Oxidation has already set in, obliterating most of the nuance from the flavors, leaving behind only notes of soy sauce, meat stew, raisins and earth. There's very little enjoyment left here.
(78 points) -
2010 Comercial Eneo Rioja Rey Eneo Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (1.6.2022)
The winery page says the wine is made with "only the tops of bunches of Tempranillo and Grenache" AND is "100% Tempranillo" from Rioja Alta. Usually I find conflicting information on different sources, but here I have only one source and even that can't agree with itself! Go figure. The wine is fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 24 months in American oak barrels. 14% alcohol.
Slightly translucent raspberry-red color with a youthful blueish hue and a pale red rim. The nose feels very sweet, even cloying, with lush crowdpleaser aromas of clove-driven Christmas spices and mulled wine notes, some cherry juice, a little bit of vanilla, light blueberry tones and a hint of cinnamon. Not really stuff I'd expect - or want - from a Rioja red! The wine is ripe, youthful and quite full-bodied on the palate with dry yet lush crowdpleaser flavors of cloves and cinnamon, some blueberry tones, a little bit of strawberry jam, light toasty oak tones, a hint of vanilla and a touch of ripe red cherry. The overall feel is enjoyably structured with the high acidity and moderately ample and rather grippy tannins. The finish is rich, long and noticeably sweet-toned with an exuberant aftertaste of vanilla and clove-driven mulled wine spices, some blueberry tones, a little bit of vanilla, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a hint of strawberry jam and a touch of cherry juice. The tannins make the wine end on a somewhat grippy note.
Ugh. A rather mediocre Rioja Reserva that feels almost artificial with its exuberant, sweet-toned flavors of Christmas spices that just jump at you. This doesn't really feel like a Rioja red, this feels like a mulled wine into which somebody forgot to add any sugar. The only redeeming quality here is the quite impressive structure, thanks to the high acidity and ample tannins. Unfortunately, the aren't enough to make the wine particularly enjoyable. This was quite a disappointment, really.
(74 points) -
2008 Heller Estate Petit Verdot - USA, California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley (1.6.2022)
Made with organically farmed Petit Verdot fruit. 13,5% alcohol.
Dense and fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels evolved, savory and meaty with aromas of game and leather, some peppery spice, a little bit of sweet, wizened dark berries, light ethery notes of VA and an autumnal hint of damp leaves and sous-bois. The wine feels evolved, dense and savory on the palate with a moderately full body and quite intense flavors of leather and salt-cured beef, quite intense umami notes of meat or mushrooms, some concentrated dark berry and plummy fruit notes, light gamey nuances, a little bit of mocha oak, an oxidative hint of nutty rancio and a lifted touch of minty greenness. The overall feel still quite firm and sinewy, thanks to the rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is evolved, dense and savory with quite a bit of tannic grip and an intense aftertaste of meaty umami, some salty notes of soy sauce, a little bit of wizened blackcurrants, light sweet notes of nail polish and balsamic VA, a hint of savory spice and a nutty touch of rancio.
An evolved, very savory and surprisingly rustic Californian Petit Verdot with great mature complexity and terrific, firm structure. The overall feel is still rather tightly-knit in terms of structure, but the fruit department is inching towards tertiary and I'd say the wine doesn't have that many years left in the tank. However, the wine is drinking really well right now and offers quite a bit of positively unpolished and even relatively funky Petit Verdot goodness. A positive surprise. Time to drink up, this wine most likely is not going to improve from here. Recommended.
(92 points) -
2009 Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua - USA, California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley (1.6.2022)
A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Merlot (15%). 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately translucent and slightly evolved dark red color with a rusty hue. The nose feels very evolved and somewhat oxidative with complex tertiary aromas of wizened blackcurrants, some vanilla oak, a little bit of sweet blueberry, light toasty oak tones, a hint of meat stew and a nutty touch of rancio. The wine is textural, meaty and quite umami-rich on the palate with a moderately full body and savory tertiary flavors of wizened cherries and dried blackcurrants, some gamey tones, a little bit of woody oak spice and toasty coffee character, light herbal nuances of minty greenness, somewhat oxidative nuances of hoi sin and nutty rancio and a touch of mushroomy funk. The moderately high acidity and quite resolved, textural medium tannins keep the wine enjoyably in balance. The finish is ripe, juicy and tertiary with a long, savory aftertaste of gamey meat, some sweet toasty oak tones, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, light woody notes of savory oak, oxidative hints of hoi sin and nutty rancio and a touch of minty greenness.
An evolved, savory and noticeably meaty Bordeaux blend that is either at its peak or slightly past it. Although younger in age than the 2008 Heller Petit Verdot, this 2009 Cab seemed more evolved and tertiary in comparison. There's quite a bit of complexity here and the wine still offers lots of old wine pleasure, but I can't help thinking this must've been even better some years ago. Now it feels it's high time to drink up. Pretty good stuff, all things considered.
(89 points) -
2013 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve - USA, California, Sonoma County (1.6.2022)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (97%), Cabernet Franc (1%) Petit Verdot (1%), Malbec (0,5%), Merlot (0,5%). Aged for 14 months in used French oak (44%), new French oak (29%) and American oak (27%) barrels. 14,5% alcohol, 5,8 g/l acidity and pH 3,7.
Dense, opaque blackish-red color with a subtly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels big, ripe and somewhat toasty with dark-toned aromas of sweet black cherries, some evolved pruney tones, light coffee notes of toasted oak, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, a hint of woody spice and a touch of blood. The wine feels ripe, dense and rather concentrated on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of coffee and toasty oak spice, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light chocolatey nuances of mocha oak, a hint of blueberry and a touch of woody old oak. The wine feels quite stern and muscular with its rather high acidity and rather grippy and assertive tannins. The finish is ripe, rich and pretty tannic with intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some coffee tones, a little bit of juicy raspberry, light savory woody tones, a sweet hint of black cherry and a chocolatey touch of toasty oak spice.
A rather modern and toasty Sonoma Cab with lots of fruit, body and oak - but, fortunately, enough structure to back it all up. Flavor-wise this wine really isn't in my wheelhouse, seeing how liberally oaked the wine is, what with all its notes of coffee, chocolate and toasted oak. However, I get a feeling that the wine has benefited from aging and it seems to be developing in the right direction. Based on the combination of fruit intensity and firm structure here, if all goes well, this wine will be much better in another decade or two; I hope by then most of the oak influence has integrated with the fruit and subsided into the background and the fruit flavors have developed from ripe and sweet to more evolved, savory and tertiary. I wouldn't touch this wine for now, but instead leave it to age and improve - with some luck, this rather modern and polished Cab might have turned into something interesting and rewarding if cellared for long enough.
(88 points) -
2016 Casa De Las Especias Yecla Petit Verdot-Monastrell - Spain, Murcia, Yecla (1.6.2022)
A blend of Petit Verdot and Monastrell from Yecla. 12,9% alcohol, 0,3 g/l residual sugar, 5,34 g/l acidity, 0,33 g/l VA and 53 mg/l total SO2.
Very deep, vibrant and quite youthful blackish-red color with a pale blood-red rim. The nose feels ripe, somewhat sweetly-fruited and quite dark-toned with aromas of juicy cherries, some wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light toasty notes of oak spice and a hint of espresso. The wine is dry, dense and relatively tough on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and somewhat restrained flavors of pronounced sour cherry bitterness and astringent chokeberries, some sweeter notes of wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of over-steeped black tea and a touch of bitter dark chocolate. The structure relies mostly on the quite tough and rather grippy tannins rather than the soft medium acidity. The finish is dry, savory and rather grippy with a long but a bit reticent aftertaste of chokeberries and sour cherries, some savory woody notes, a little bit of sweeter raisiny nuances, light toasty notes of espresso, a hint of cigar and a touch of black tea.
A somewhat restrained, a bit underwhelming and rather clumsy Yecla red with a great tannic structure, but not enough fruit or body to back it up. Normally I love wines with modest levels of alcohol and firm tannic structure, but this feels more like a rustic farmer wine made with fruit lacking in concentration - and that lack of fruit and flavor has been attempted to be replaced with toasty oak notes. At the moment the wine feels unbalanced, and I have a hunch that with this low acidity and lack of intensity, the wine is going to fall apart sooner than the tannins are going to resolve. I remain quite unimpressed.
(80 points) -
2012 Psi Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1.6.2022)
Some sources say this is 100% old-vine Tempranillo, other sources say there's a little bit of Garnacha in the blend too (5% in 2012; Garnacha supposedly has lower pH than Tempranillo in Ribera del Duero, so it is used to add freshness to the wine). Made with purchased organically farmed fruit sourced from farmers in Ribera del Duero, vinified at Dominio de Pingus. Fermented and macerated in concrete tanks, aged for 18 months in old foudres and used oak barriques. Bottled in May 2014. 14% alcohol. Total production 150,000 bottles.
Somewhat translucent blood-red color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels a bit restrained but also quite attractive with fine-tuned aromas of ripe forest fruits, some blueberry tones, a little bit of meaty character, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of tobacco, a touch of old dry leather and a whiff of ripe raspberry. The wine feels dense, concentrated and somewhat extracted with a full body, yet the overall feel is surprisingly lively, not heavy or ponderous. There are intense flavors of blueberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of tobacco, light sweet notes of ripe red plums, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of licorice. The high alcohol lends a little bit of alcohol warmth to the palate while the high acidity and assertive, grippy tannins make the wine come across as very stern and muscular. The finish is long, powerful and quite grippy with savory flavors of tart red berries, crunchy crowberries and some sweet blueberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of licorice root and a touch of ripe dark plum.
A wonderfully stern, muscular and serious Ribera del Duero that doesn't feel like an overblown blockbuster nor a sweet and soft crowdpleaser. There's definitely quite a bit of old-vine concentration here, but the overall feel exudes freshness and sense of harmony, letting the emphasis be on the fruit, not on the work of the winemaker. Seeing how the wine is still packed with tons of fruit and the structure makes the wine feel quite tightly-coiled and sinewy, I can imagine this wine will continue to evolve and improve for many, many more years. While quite terrific already now, I can imagine this wine will only get better if left to age in a cellar. Highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2019 Petit Vega Ribera del Duero 18 - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1.6.2022)
Labeled only as "Petit Vega Cosecha 2019" with a small "18" in the lower part of the label. 100% Tempranillo from vineyards planted at the altitude of 900 meters a.s.l. and averaging 30 years in age. Aged for 18 months in oak barrels. 14% alcohol. Total production 29748 bottles and 1890 magnums.
Dense and almost completely opaque garnet color with a youthful purplish hue. The nose feels lush, sweet and almost cloying with exuberant aromas of Christmas spices like cloves and cinnamon, some vanilla oak, a little bit of cherry marmalade, light blueberry juice notes and a toasty hint of milk chocolate. The wine feels dense, ripe and chewy on the palate with a full body and quite concentrated yet still very youthful flavors of ripe cherries and sweet boysenberries, some clove-driven Christmas spices, a little bit of milk chocolate, light notes of tobacco, a hint of salty liquorice powder and a touch of blueberry jam. The overall feel is quite structured and tightly-knit with the high acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, quite grippy and rather sweet-toned with lush flavors of blueberries and ripe cherries, some cloves, a little bit of vanilla, light overripe blackcurrant tones, a chocolatey hint of toasty oak and a touch of strawberry jam.
Ugh. This was a major disappointment. I did find the structure quite impressive and tightly-knit here, but aromatically this wine was just an unappetizing crowdpleaser with very heavily oaked and at times almost overripe flavors of cloves, vanilla, milk chocolate, cherry marmalade and strawberry jam. Honestly, aromatically this felt more like an unsweetened mulled wine rather than a serious, dry Tempranillo. As this seems structurally like a wine that could be aged extensively, I really hope the wine drops its sweetly-oaked and almost candied primary fruit flavors and emerges somewhat more enjoyable if given enough age. At the moment this feels like an impressively structured but otherwise rather mediocre wine with too much oak, too much extraction and too little age.
(79 points) -
2010 Schloss Gobelsburg St. Laurent Haidegrund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (1.6.2022)
Fermented in 2500 liter open-top oak fermentors, after which the wine is transferred to 600-liter Austrian oak barrels (1/3 new) to age for a year. 12,5% alcohol.
Luminous, quite translucent and slightly evolved dark cherry-red color. Savory and somewhat smoky - even slightly roasted - nose with aromas of pronounced Pinosity along with notes of charred meat and intense red fruits, some coniferous forest tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light sweet nuances of ripe red plums, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of fresh cherry. All in the all, the nose dead ringer for a Pinot Noir, really. On the palate the wine feels dry, form and harmonious with a medium body and a silky texture. There are savory flavors of ripe redcurrants and fresh raspberries, some juicy red plums, a little bit of smoke and charred gamey meat, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of tart lingonberry and a Pinot Noir-like touch of coniferous forest. The overall feel is relatively tightly-knit and nicely structured, thanks to the high acidity and still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, textural and moderately tannic with persistent flavors of earthy Pinosity, smoke, some savory notes of woody oak, a little bit of roasted game, light crunchy nuances of fresh redcurrants and cranberries, a hint of licorice and a sweeter, dark-toned touch of toasty oak spice.
A wonderful, dead-serious and very complex St. Laurent that is in a terrific spot right now, yet at the same time showing potential for future development. The oaky notes have subsided remarkably well, but the wine still retains a somewhat smoky and gamey overall feel, which actually plays really nicely with the vibrant fruit that for the most part feels almost identical to a Pinot Noir or a German Spätburgunder. As it happens, I poured the wine blind to unsuspecting winos and the first ten guesses were Pinot Noir from different parts of the world. Some didn't even believe me when I said this is not a Pinot Noir - so well-delineated was the Pinosity here! The only thing that sets this wine apart from a typical Pinot Noir was its slightly weightier body and somewhat chewier, more tactile presence - in effect, this is a slightly bigger wine than a Pinot Noir. But aromatically virtually identical. This was truly a lovely wine and an excellent purchase at 24,90€. While drinking really well right now, this wine still has potential to improve even further from here. Highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2017 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (1.6.2022)
100% Sangiovese sourced from Castelnuovo Berardenga, selected from the best lots. Macerated with the skins for two weeks, aged for 12-16 months in Slavonian oak casks and French barriques of 2nd and 3rd use. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent, luminous and still quite youthful black cherry color. Ripe and somewhat sweetish but otherwise pretty classically styled nose with aromas of wizened black cherries, some sour cherries, a little bit of tobacco and leather, light sunny notes of juicy dark plums, a woody hint of old oak spice and a touch of salty liquorice powder. The wine feels ripe, concentrated and somewhat solar yet not really sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and quite dry flavors of sour cherries and cranberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of savory wood spice, light notes of tobacco, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of juicy dark plum. Despite its slightly sunny overall feel, the wine comes across as surprisingly classically styled, not too ripe or heavy. Even the structure is very much there, thanks to the high acidity and quite assertive, rather grippy tannins. The finish is savory, long and quite tannic with an intense aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and pronounced sour cherry bitterness, some sweeter notes of ripe dark plums, a little bit of tobacco, light earthy notes, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of dry, woody oak spice.
Fortunately I got to taste this blind, as I had my reservations on the warm Tuscan 2017 vintage. However, even if somewhat solar in its disposition, this turned out to be a thoroughly classic Chianti Classico all the same with the classic hallmark Sangiovese characteristics of almost bone-dry taste and rather prominent sour cherry bitterness, bright acidic spice and firm tannic frame. Instantly from the very first sniff I was pretty convinced we must be in Italy and the taste simply confirmed it. With its combination of high acidity and firm tannins I was split between Piedmont (Nebbiolo), Tuscany (Sangiovese) and Campania (Aglianico). I finally went with Tuscany, but was surprised to learn the wine wasn't 2016 as I guessed, but instead 2017. Excellent stuff with tons of upside, and terrific value at 22,20€.
(93 points) -
NV Frederiksdal Kirsebærvin Sur Lie - Denmark, Lolland (1.6.2022)
A wine blended from several vintages of Frederiksdal Kirsebærvin, which in turn is a wine made with cherries that are first pressed, then fermented in stainless steel while macerating with the pulp, stones and skins for 4-5 days. Typically Kirsebærvin is released quite soon after the vinification, but wines destined for Reserve and Sur Lie bottlings are moved to age in oak barrels on the fine lees. Sur Lie is a blend of 2-3 different vintages that have spent an average of 5 months in oak casks and the wine is bottled unfiltered (in contrast to Reserve, for which the wines are aged for much longer). The lot number is 16-03, meaning that the wine was bottled in March 2016. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Fully opaque and somewhat evolved blackish-red color. The nose is simply ridiculous and nothing unlike anything I've ever had in a wine before; honestly, the first impression I get from the nose is seitan dough. This smells exactly like seitan after I've seasoned the gluten flour dough with all kinds of spices. After I get over the seitan aroma, I start to get finer nuances of smoked paprika, some sweet balsamic notes, a little bit of soy sauce, light sweet notes of cherry juice concentrate, a hint of bay leaf and a touch of fivespice. However, the overall aroma still is that of seasoned seitan dough and that is just crazy. The wine is very intense, sweet and very viscous on the palate with a medium body and concentrated flavors of cherry jam and fivespice, some exotic fragrant spices, a little bit of salty soy sauce, light blueberry nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a lifted touch of cherry pits. There are no tannins whatsoever here, but the high acidity lends good balance and sense of firmness to the wine. The high alcohol shows through a little. The finish is sweet, long and subtly warm with very intense flavors of cherry jam, some seitan dough notes, a little bit of bayleaf, light salty nuances of soy sauce, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of smoked paprika.
This was one of the weirdest wines I've had in a long time! First of all, I'm not used to wines that smell a lot like uncooked seitan dough (and taste a bit like it, too), but all things considered, this was a surprisingly nice and tasty effort. And just to emphasize - even though the wine sounds very odd and the soy sauce descriptors might make it sound quite oxidative, it definitely didn't seem oxidative and the wine was actually pretty tasty for such a queer wine. It just took some time to get accustomed to the seitan flavors, noticeable sweetness and the at times very intense flavors that weren't necessarily always of cherries, but all kinds of spicy and savory notes. I have hard time guessing whether this wine will improve with age or if it's best now or if it will just stay like this until its end of days, but I guess it doesn't matter. This is a fun fruit wine of high quality and quirky flavors. I guess the wine is worth its price at approx. 20€ for a half-liter bottle, even if I don't know what to make of this wine.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
PSI, on the other hand, has been consistently a superb wine in my books! A lot more to my liking than, say, Flor de Pingus.