Roland Velic’s Weingut Moric - located in Burgenland, Austria - is one of the most esteemed natural wineries in Austria. Probably the most remarkable thing about the Moric wines is that in many cases you don’t even realize the wines are made according to a very hands-off philosophy! They typically aren’t funky, volatile or natty, but instead show remarkable freshness, precision and purity of fruit.
Moric specializes in Blaufränkisch (aka. Kékfrankos, Lemberger, Frankovka…), the variety that is to Burgenland what Nebbiolo is to Piedmont. Many say Velic has done more to Burgenland’s recognition more than any other wine producer, and while there are a good handful of other excellent producers in Burgenland as well, it’s quite safe to say that Weingut Moric still remains in the top echelon and his best Blaufränkisch bottlings really exemplify what world-class wines the variety truly can make in deft hands.
The emphasis here was on Moric wines, but we also had one wine from Velic’s neighbor, Rosi Schuster, and two wines from Jagini - a collaborative effort by Roland Velic and Hannes Schuster from Rosi Schuster.
And, as always, we finished the night off with some random wines tasted blind, just for the heck of it!
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2018 Moric Hausmarke Supernatural - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
A blend of organically farmed Grüner Veltliner (75-70%) and Chardonnay (25-30%). Fermented spontaneously, aged in neutral oak barrels. Bottled with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.
Rather youthful, medium-deep yellow-green color. Subtly reductive but otherwise clean nose with aromas of white peach, some fireworks smoke, a little bit of fresh pear, light waxy tones, a hint of fresh pineapple, a touch of sappy herbal spice and a toasty whiff of something that might be brioche or woody spice. The wine is ripe and quite concentrated yet surprisingly crisp and zippy at the same time with a medium body and bright, focused flavors of juicy white peach, some cantaloupe, a little bit of perhaps bretty funk, light lifted notes of citrus rind, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of bright stony minerality. There seems to be a tiny bit of VA that doesn't really taste - it just gives the fruit a nice lifting touch. The high acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is dry and zesty quite quite long flavors of white peach, some phenolic spice, a little bit of waxy funk, light stony mineral nuances, a bretty hint of leather and a touch of lifted VA.
A very nice, fresh and focused Austrian white that seems to be evolving in the right direction - at least when comparing this note to my earlier one from July 2020. Back then the wine was somewhat more closed and neutral in character, more dominated by reduction. Now, 1½ years later, the reduction has subsided to some degree (not entirely) and some subtly funky tones have emerged in its place. However, the wine doesn't feel natty or sauvage in any way and the wild nuances don't jump at you - instead they just lurk there in the background and they might help you guessing the wine is made in a rather hands-off way, if you were tasting the wine blind or didn't know the producer. All in all, a great wine - especially for a white from a producer known for his Blaufränkisch reds - and most likely going to improve for years more. Drink now or keep. At the local retail price (31,37€) this feels a bit expensive for the quality, but at the price you can see this elsewhere (18,90€) this really delivers.
(90 points) -
2018 Moric Blaufränkisch - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from younger vines (10-50 yo) in the Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks and open-top fermentors, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 600-liter demi-muids to 4500-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2 12,5% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent cherry-red color with a youthful blueish hue. Quite wild and rather intense nose with bright aromas of red forest fruits, some sappy herbal tones, a little bit of lifted nail polish character, light bretty notes of orange rind and Band-Aid, a hint of brambly black raspberry and a touch of lingonberry. The wine is dry and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and bright, slightly sauvage flavors of tart lingonberries and crunchy cranberries, some bretty notes of leather, a little bit of lambic-like Band-Aid funk, light sappy notes of herbal bitterness and a volatile hint of nail polish. The overall feel is balanced with the rather high acidity and gentle tannic grip. The finish is lively, crunchy and a bit wild with a dry, long aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some crunchy crowberries, a little bit of bretty leather, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of sappy herbal character.
A very nice, fresh and balanced naturalist from the lighter end of the spectrum. With its subtle yet perceptible bretty and volatile qualities, it's quite obvious that the wine is rather natural in style, but still the wine drinks more like a clean and fresh light red wine than like a natty funk bomb - think of a delicate Cru Beaujolais where the Gamay aromatics are replaced with those from Blaufränkisch and you're in the ballpark. Most likely the wine will keep, if not improve, for a good number for years more, but it feels like this is a nice entry-level red that's best for early drinking, not for cellaring purposes. At the local retail price (28,32€) the wine comes across as pretty expensive for the quality, but at the price you can buy this wine elsewhere (15,90€), this is a solid purchase.
(90 points) -
2012 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from older vines (25-55 yo) in the Neckenmarkt (80%) Lutzmannsburg (20%) vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 500-liter demi-muids to 1000-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13,5% alcohol.
Slightly translucent blackish-red color with a subtly evolved maroon hue. The nose here is surprisingly big and bold with ripe, dark-toned aromas of fresh black cherries and dark plummy fruit, some bretty notes of leathery funk, light fragrant notes of chopped parsnip, a little bit of acetic VA, a hint of earthy spices and an evolved touch of meatiness. The wine is ripe, broad and quite concentrated on the palate with a rather full body and bold flavors of juicy forest fruits, some tart notes of fresh red plums, light bretty notes of leathery funk, a little bit of savory wood spice, an acetic hint of VA and a touch of caramel oak. The wine feels pretty structured with its rather high acidity and quite grippy, assertive tannins. The overall feel is quite bold and powerful, yet the wine doesn't come across as a big blockbuster, but instead a well-proportioned wine. The finish is lively, concentrated and rather grippy with rich and quite intense flavors of fresh dark plums, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light caramel notes of oak, a hint of ripe blackberry and a volatile touch of nail polish.
After three younger vintages of Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve, this older vintage of the same wine felt like a wine from a different planet - even though this wasn't a big, monolithic wine by any means, the style was obviously much more concentrated and extracted here with more emphasis on ripeness and oak influence. Although this wine was lacking a bit of that freshness and playful overall character inherent in the later iterations, it was still a very balanced effort all the same. I can imagine this might've been a bit too modern for my preference in its youth, but now the wine is starting to reach its plateau of maturity where it is drinking quite wonderfully - even if it feels obvious that there is still lots of room for further development. A terrific wine that can be drunk now, but will reward further cellaring. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 48,90€.
(93 points) -
2014 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from older vines (25-55 yo) in the Neckenmarkt (80%) Lutzmannsburg (20%) vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 500-liter demi-muids to 1000-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent blackish-red color. Savory, restrained and somewhat sappy nose with aromas of black peppercorns and herbal spice, some fragrant nuances of dried flowers, a little bit of crunchy crowberry and cranberry, light green nuances of juniper needles, a herbaceous hint of chili powder, a lifted touch of VA and a faint rubbery whiff of reduction. The wine is clean, fresh and subtly green-toned on the palate with a medium body and high-toned flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of leafy green character, light sweeter nuances of ripe dark berries, a hint of stony minerality and a crunchy touch of fresh redcurrant. The wine is quite high in acidity and while the tannins come across as pretty light and well-managed, they have sort of gritty, unripe quality to them, making them feel somewhat angular and grippy. The rather long finish is clean, crunchy and slightly grippy with a dry aftertaste of fresh redcurrants, some sappy herbal character, light ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tart cranberry and a sweeter, juicy touch of dark forest fruits.
A nice, fresh and clean Blaufränkisch, but compared to the other three vintages of Blaufränkisch Reserve we tasted (2017, 2016 and 2012), this came across as somewhat lighter and more delicate in body and noticeably less ripe in overall quality. Even though the tannins in these wines are always quite light and friendly, here they felt slightly unripe, prompting people commenting how this wine seemed somewhat more grippy than the other vintages. However, I still wouldn't say this is a particularly tannic wine - just a bit tougher and more angular than the other vintages. Even though this was a bit nimble for a Moric Blaufränkisch, this was still a thoroughly enjoyable effort and a successful example for a Blaufränkisch made in this difficult, cool and damp vintage. Nevertheless, this feels a bit expensive for the quality at 48,62€.
(90 points) -
2016 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from older vines (25-55 yo) in the Neckenmarkt (80%) Lutzmannsburg (20%) vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 500-liter demi-muids to 1000-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.
Rather opaque, vibrant black cherry color. Dry and somewhat restrained nose with savory aromas of fresh forest fruits, some earthy spices, light inky tones, a little bit of ripe dark fruit and a hint of sweet volatile lift. The nose opens up slowly as the wine aerates, but never really becomes particularly expressive. The wine feels juicy, dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of crowberries, ferrous blood, some tart red plums, light inky tones, a little bit of earthy character, light acetic notes of VA and a vague hint of farmhouse funk. The overall feel is balanced and nicely structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is clean, dry and long with some tannic grip and crunchy flavors of tart lingonberries, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light leathery notes of brett, a hint of phenolic spice and a touch of earth.
A tasty and fine-tuned Blaufränkisch that feels a bit closed and reserved at this point. It seems that everything is in its place and even the more sauvage elements remains quite thoroughly in the background, keeping the overall feel wonderfully pure and clean. The wine feels a tiny bit weightier than the vintages 2017 and 2014 that were tasted alongside, but only slightly, as all the wines were quite spry and lively in overall character. I'll expect the wine to unwind and open up a bit more as it ages, which is why I'd recommend not opening the wine in the immediate future, but instead letting it age in a cellar for at least a handful of years more. At least it seems like a wine that is built to take some aging. Feels somewhat pricey for the quality at local retail price (45,21€) but at the prices one can find it elsewhere (32,50€), this is pretty much worth its price.
(92 points) -
2017 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from older vines (25-55 yo) in the Neckenmarkt (80%) Lutzmannsburg (20%) vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 500-liter demi-muids to 1000-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.
Only very slightly translucent blackish-red color with a youthful purplish hue. Expressive, characterful and subtly lifted nose with intense aromas of fresh cherries and ripe boysenberries, some bilberry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light volatile nuances of nail polish and a fragrant touch of bitter almond oil. The wine is fresh, crunchy and quite intense on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of ripe forest fruits, some tart lignonberries, light sappy herbal tones, a little bit of lifted VA, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of crunchy redcurrant. The overall feel is high in acidity with very light and supple tannins. The finish is lively, dry and crunchy with flavors of tart lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of sappy herbal spice, light crunchy notes red plums, a subtly acetic hint of VA and a touch of brambly raspberry.
A very tasty and wonderfully bright but also noticeably youthful and still a bit awkward Blaufränkisch. Even though this wine seemed to be showing a bit more ripeness and intensity than the Moric Blaufränksich 2018 that was tasted alongside, this wine really didn't seem to be showing any more weight or body. The goal of Moric seems to be in making wines that really don't become bigger or more "impressive", "impactful" or "dramatic" as they go up in quality, only wines that show more depth and intensity while retaining that freshness, liveliness and immense drinkability inherent in Moric wines. I'd say this wine isn't really showing its best yet, but calls for a few more years to come a bit better together. The price at which the wine retails here (45,12€), the wine feels rather pricey, but at the price the wine retails elsewhere (32,50€), it is a much better purchase - albeit still not really a bargain.
(93 points) -
2012 Jagini Zagersdorf - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
A collaborative effort between Moric and Hannes Schuster. The organically farmed fruit is sourced from old (55-100 yo) Blaufränkisch vineyards owned by Schuster in the town of Zagersdorf, then vinified at the Moric winery. The fruit is harvested in several tries in order to get fruit at its optimum ripeness. Fermented spontaneously in oak barrels and open-top fermentors. Aged in old Austrian and German oak barrels ranging from 500 to 1600 liters in size. The wine is released only after 5 years after the bottling. 13,5% alcohol.
Very deep, slightly evolved and only very slightly translucent blackish-red color with a somewhat pale brick-red rim. Sweet, ripe and quite dark-toned nose with juicy aromas of dark forest fruits, some plummy tones, a little bit of cooked turnip, light brambly notes of blackberry, a hint of earthy spice and a lifted touch of nail varnish. The wine is clean, rather ripe and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and quite concentrated flavors of plummy dark fruits, some brambly notes of black raspberries, light inky tones, a little bit juicy blackberry, a lifted hint of nail varnish and a touch of cooked root vegetables. The wine is quite high in acidity with ripe, textural tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is ripe and juicy with a little bit of tannic grip on the gums and a moderately long aftertaste of ripe black raspberries, some plummy tones, a little bit of earth, light spicy tones, a hint of red forest fruits and a sweet touch of volatile lift.
A sophisticated, tasty and quite rich Blaufränkisch that seems a bit more fruity compared to the usual Moric style, emphasizing ripeness and more darker-toned flavor spectrum more. All in all, this is a very nice, harmonious and enjoyably textural effort that is fully enjoyable now, but will continue to improve for at least a handful of years more. However, this doesn't leave as lasting an impression as many Moric wines - or the more impressive 2013 vintage of this same label. Terrific stuff, but feels expensive for the quality at 55,12€.
(92 points) -
2013 Jagini Zagersdorf - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
A collaborative effort between Moric and Hannes Schuster. The organically farmed fruit is sourced from old (55-100 yo) Blaufränkisch vineyards owned by Schuster in the town of Zagersdorf, then vinified at the Moric winery. The fruit is harvested in several tries in order to get fruit at its optimum ripeness. Fermented spontaneously in oak barrels and open-top fermentors. Aged in old Austrian and German oak barrels ranging from 500 to 1600 liters in size. Bottled on 4th of April, 2019, after some 5 years of aging. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat translucent and still surprisingly youthful cherry-red color. Surprisingly closed and reductive nose with a pronounced streak of fireworks and gunpowder smoke, followed by some inky tones and light nuances of purple fruits, a little bit of acetic VA, juicy hints of blueberries and a solar touch of almost marmaladey red fruits. The wine really calls for air and it takes some time for the wine to really open up. On the palate the moderately full-bodied wine comes across as noticeably ripe, juicy and somewhat round, yet still surprisingly well-proportioned, rather concentrated and sinewy with quite intense flavors of dark forest fruits, some cherry tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light notes of purple fruits, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of volatile lift. The overall feel is pretty muscular and structure-driven, thanks to the quite high acidity and rather assertive and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and somewhat grippy with quite intense flavors of blueberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light toasty nuances of mocha oak, hints of wild strawberries and other sweet red fruits and a touch of lifted VA.
Compared to the normally quite supple and delicate style of Moric, this vintage of Jagini Zagersdorf came across as quite a big and ripe blockbuster. Not really a monolithic fruit bomb, but instead a surprisingly ripe, sunny and muscular effort with more alcohol, weight, power and tannins than seems typical for Moric. But what is the really crazy thing here is that the wine actually manages to pull it all off! It feels surprisingly closed and reductive at first and after it has opened up in the glass, the wine seems pretty ripe and even slightly oaky - especially when I love the lighter, more delicate style of Moric wines - yet the overall feel here isn't too ripe or sweet, or too oaky, or too volatile, or too high in alcohol. It's remarkable how deftly the wine manages to stay together. It is still very young and definitely could use a lot more age to lose that reduction and integrate all the oaky tones, but the potential is definitely there. Not affordable at the local retail price of 50,12€, but I'd still say this is priced somewhat according to its quality. However, at 36,50€ this is a screaming bargain.
(94 points) -
2013 Weingut Rosi Schuster Blaufränkisch St Margarethen - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed, hand-picked Blaufränkisch from 45-65 yo vineyards surrounding the village of Sankt Margarethen im Burgenland. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 20 months in exclusively old and neutral large oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and somewhat concentrated blackish-red color that permits very little light through. The nose feels somewhat reduced and slightly closed with some skunky reductive notes followed by light nuances of peppery spice, sweet blackcurrants, a lifted hint of VA and a touch of fresh red cherry. The wine is bright, intense and moderately concentrated on the palate with a medium body and precise, dry flavors of crunchy red plums, some earthy spices, a little bit of savory old wood, light blueberry tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a brambly touch of raspberry. The overall feel is impressively structured with its high acidity and rather assertive, grainy tannins that lend a healthy grip to the mouthfeel. The finish is clean, lively and crunchy with moderate tannic grip and intense flavors of ripe raspberries and tart red plums, some stony minerality, a little bit of skunky reduction, light bilberry nuances, a hint of savory old wood and a sweet touch of volatile lift.
A wonderfully bright, savory and focused Blaufränkisch that suffers from moderately heavy reduction - up to the point that some people actually dismissed the wine as faulty. I thought there was a lovely and quite impressive wine lingering underneath, so I left my glass to open up and while the reduction never really blew away fully, it became apparent that this was a very serious and quite structure-driven Blaufränkisch from the very serious end of the spectrum. Perhaps even bit humorless compared to the somewhat more playful style of Moric, whose wines were tasted at the same time. Nevertheless, I enjoyed this wine quite much, but it feels this wine needs many more years to blow off its reduction, and even then the wine really could use good decanting so that it can take its time to open up into full bloom. Even though the wine was quite impressive already now, expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(93 points) -
2012 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Neckenmarkt - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from nine old (45 to 85 yo) parcels in the village of Neckenmarkt. Fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in a combination of new (50%) and old (50%) 500-liter demi-muids for 6 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Almost fully opaque and slightly evolved blackish-red color with a mature maroon hue. Fragrant, characterful and subtly green-toned nose with seductive aromas of elderflower, some inky tones, a little bit of ripe boysenberry, light sappy notes of aromatic green herbs, a little bit of licorice root, a meaty hint of game, a floral touch of violets and a whiff of crushed dark forest fruits. No obvious oaky aromatics. Lovely! The wine feels clean, concentrated and fine-tuned on the palate with a medium body and intense, ever-so-slightly sauvage flavors of boysenberries, some elderberries, a little bit of meat stew with bay leaves, light aromatic notes of medicinal herbs along with a subtle streak of herbal bitterness, a floral hint of violets and a developed, gamey touch of meaty umami. Bright, high acidity and firm, balanced medium tannins. The finish is long and concentrated with some tannic grip and quite intense flavors of crunchy crowberries and brambly black raspberries, some aromatic notes of bay leaf and cooked herbs, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light floral notes of violets, a hint of game and a touch of old leather.
An outstanding, harmonious Blaufränkisch with remarkable sense of balance and captivating depth of flavor. This wine captures the essence of Moric's winemaking so well: even though this wine is high up in the quality pyramid, this doesn't feel like it was any bigger, weightier or more ripe compared to the entry-level Moric Blaufränkisch wines. No, instead this shows greater sense of intensity and concentration, as if the aromatic substance and flavor intensity of two wines were simply crammed into one, not trying to have a wine with the weight and extraction of two in one. Furthermore, although almost invariably all the Moric wines show some wild, funky and sauvage elements, this is among the "cleanest" Moric wines I've wines I've tasted - there's that funky edge, but very much in the background, letting the purity of fruit remain firmly to the fore. An outstanding wine that is drinking remarkably well right now, but will keep for years more. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) -
2012 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from six old (80 to 110 yo) parcels in the village of Lutzmannsburg. The parcels are fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, all separately, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in predominantly old 500-liter demi-muids for 8 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol.
Somewhat evolved and slightly translucent blackish-red color. Dull, dusty and somewhat mute nose with rather dry aromas of damp earth, some sweeter dark fruits and a little bit of old attic. The wine is concentrated but also surprisingly dull and inexpressive on the palate with a rather full body and dry, understated flavors of earthy spice, some savory woody tones, a little bit of dark forest fruit, light dusty tones and a hint of ripe gooseberry. The wine is high in acidity with ripe medium tannins and the rather high alcohol shows a little. The finish is dry, somewhat warm and short-to-medium in length with understated flavors of some forest fruits, a little bit of damp soil, light licorice root notes and a hint of something dusty.
This wine was completely unlike any other Lutzmannsburg we tasted, so in all likelihood we had a corked - or otherwise faulty - bottle. This didn't have any obvious TCA aromatics, but the wine was completely stripped of fruit and it came across as so restrained and mute that it seemed there was something badly off here. Letting it open up for several hours didn't change the wine at all. A shame, seeing how terrific the other vintages that we tasted were.
(NR/flawed) -
2013 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from six old (80 to 110 yo) parcels in the village of Lutzmannsburg. The parcels are fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, all separately, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in predominantly old 500-liter demi-muids for 8 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and almost fully opaque black cherry color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose isn't that powerful, yet it still shows restrained intensity with its nuanced, seductive aromas of licorice root, ripe dark berries, some fresh plummy tones, light spicy notes of green peppercorns, a little bit of lifted VA, a floral hint of elderflower and a touch of blueberry. The wine feels concentrated, sinewy and quite powerful on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of sweet forest fruits, some sour cherry bitterness, light inky tones, a little bit of autumnal leafy character, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of earth. The firm structure is very much in balance with the bold flavors, thanks to the high acidity and ample, ripe tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, concentrated and rather grippy with savory flavors of crunchy redcurrants, meaty umami, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of ferrous blood, light inky tones, darker-toned hints of dark plums and black cherries and a touch of ripe cranberry.
A very stern, concentrated and muscular vintage of Moric's Lutzmannsburg that shows tremendous intensity, purity of fruit and sense of harmony. The wine has developed some mature nuances, yet the overall feel is still remarkably youthful and tightly-knit, making the wine really call for some additional years in a cellar. Although the wine is quite accessible already, this is just brimming of future potential. In our tasting of Moric wines, this was probably the most impressive wine we had - and probably the best Blaufränkisch I've ever had - yet still I have a feeling this wine will continue to improve from here. A real tour de force of a Blaufränkisch. Nevertheless, I'm not entirely sure if the wine is worth the local tariff (104,81€) and even at the regular 75€ price the wine feels a tad expensive.
(96 points) -
2015 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from six old (80 to 110 yo) parcels in the village of Lutzmannsburg. The parcels are fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, all separately, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in predominantly old 500-liter demi-muids for 8 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol.
Very deep, dense and fully opaque blackish-red color with youthful purplish highlights. The nose feels concentrated and juicy with vibrant aromas of bilberries, some inky tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light sappy notes of herbal spice, a hint of gamey meat and a sweet touch of lifted volatile character. The wine feels ripe, rich and concentrated on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of bilberries and sweet dark plums, some sunny notes of succulent dark berries, a little bit of meaty umami, light lifted notes of VA, an extracted hint of tannic bitterness and a touch of savory wood spice. The overall feel is quite extracted, muscular and structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and assertive, rather grippy tannins. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The lengthy finish is rich, ripe and juicy with somewhat extracted flavors of sweet dark fruits, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of fresh red plum, light tart notes of lingonberry, a savory hint of meaty umami and an earthy touch of old wood spice. The wine ends on a slightly warm note.
A big powerhouse of a Blaufränkisch. Tasting this alongside equally concentrated vintage 2013 of Lutzmannsburg, this 2015 seemed pretty similar in terms of body and weight, but the overall feel was sweeter-toned and just generally more "solar" with more emphasis on ripe dark fruit tones, less about vibrancy and non-fruit nuances. The tannins seemed a bit more extracted and grippy here, whereas the acidity felt slightly less pronounced. It's quite interesting how very similar the 2013 and 2015 vintages were, yet the 2013 was simply amazing - probably the best Blaufränkisch I've tasted - and this 2015 was "just" a very good wine with lots of depth, intensity and structure, but lacking that je-ne-sais-quoi that made the 2013 vintage so exceptional. Nevertheless, this is a world-class Blaufränkisch by all accounts and most likely it will continue to improve for years more in a cellar.
(93 points) -
2017 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg - Austria, Burgenland (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from six old (80 to 110 yo) parcels in the village of Lutzmannsburg. The parcels are fermented spontaneously in oak fermentors, all separately, macerated with the skins for approximately three weeks. Aged in predominantly old 500-liter demi-muids for 8 months, then the best barrels are blended together and aged in exclusively old oak barrels for another 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat translucent and quite dark cherry red color with a youthful purplish hue. The nose feels somewhat closed and slightly stuffy, not giving much. Aromas of dusty earth, some inky tones, a little bit of savory spices and stewed herbs, light rubbery notes of reduction, a hint of bilberry and a touch of gamey meat. The wine is restrained, rather dry and moderately concentrated on the palate with a full body and focused yet quite reticent flavors of juicy dark berries, some ripe black cherries, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light crunchy notes of crowberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of gamey meat. The structure relies mostly on the acidity that feels surprisingly high for the concentrated, ripe fruit, whereas the tannins come across as lighter and softer than seems typical for Moric Lutzmannsburg. The finish is lively, fresh and gently grippy with long yet somewhat reticent flavors of crunchy crowberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of tart red plum, light stony mineral tones and a savory hint of meat.
A fresh and crunchy Blaufränkisch that feels quite closed and somewhat reductive at the moment, making the wine come across as a bit underwhelming - especially after a mini-vertical of older Lutzmannsburg vintages. Nevertheless, this vintage felt somewhat different to the others, coming across as surprisingly ripe, concentrated and full-bodied in character, showing a bit more weight than Moric wines usually do, yet the tannins seemed much lighter and softer than what I expected from the Lutzmannsburg bottling, normally perhaps the most tightly-knit label of Moric. Although this contributed to the silky texture of the wine, it didn't make the wine soft in any way, as the acidity was surprisingly high for a wine this ripe and concentrated. All in all, this felt a bit atypical a vintage for a Lutzmannsburg, but showing pretty good potential for the future development. At the moment the wine didn't feel particularly impressive, thanks to its rather reductive nature that didn't really disappear even with aeration - hence I'm not rating the wine as highly as the other vintages of Lutzmannsburg. However, I expect the wine will turn out just fine if given enough time - there's no need to open any bottles within the next 4-7 years. For immediate consumption the wine feels just heavily overpriced, both at the local retail price (94,81€) and the price one can normally find this internationally (approx. 75€).
(89 points) -
NV Gaec du Haut Planty Le Saint Louis Brut - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (4.3.2022)
A blend of organically farmed Folle Blanche (70%) and Melon de Bourgogne (30%) from the Muscadet country. Vinified as a méthode ancestrale sparkling wine with very low to no residual sugar. As this is a non-appellation wine ("Vin Mousseaux de Qualité Brut"), there is no vintage designation, but this is lot 2018SLB, so in all likelihood this wine is based on the 2018 vintage. 12,5% alcohol.
Hazy pale yellow color with a little bit of very fine, powdery deposit in the glass. Wild, waxy and somewhat leesy nose with attractive aromas of ripe nectarine, some waxy tones, a little bit of creamy custard, light fruity notes of fresh white peach, a hint of sappy herbal spice and a touch of leesy yeast. The wine is ripe yet crisp and quite brisk on the palate with dry, characterful flavors of peach-driven stone fruit, some beeswax, a little bit of honeyed richness, light stony mineral tones, a hint of waxy funk and a creamy touch of custard. High, structured acidity and ample, fizzy yet not aggressive mousse. The finish is crisp, fresh and structured with a long aftertaste of leesy creaminess, some peachy tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light chalky mineral tones and a hint of fresh apricot.
Well this was a very positive surprise! I must say I didn't have high expectations of a méthode ancestrale Vin de France, but this turned out to be a very serious sparkling wine with a somewhat funky yet not at all natty overall character and good sense of structure. Hands-down delicious stuff. This is definitely nothing you'd confuse with a Champagne, but this isn't even trying to be one. Superb stuff - I probably need to check the other wines from this producer as well.
(90 points) -
2020 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge Les Moulins - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (4.3.2022)
100% organically farmed Cabernet Franc from multiple small parcels that range from 9 to 80 years in age. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. The producer aims for minimal extraction during the maceration, employing a gentle infusion method with only light manual pigeage. Aged in stainless steel, bottled lightly filtered and without fining. 12,5% alcohol.
Very youthful, somewhat translucent garnet color with a slightly blueish hue and quite colorless rim. At first the nose feels heavily reductive with a rather flatulent overall character that slowly blows off, revealing restrained aromas of peppery spice, some fresh blackcurrants, light inky tones, a little bit of earth and a hint of smoke. The wine feels ripe yet very lively and juicy on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of crunchy blackcurrants and ripe redcurrants, some sweet bilberry tones, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of peppery spice and a sweeter touch of juicy black cherry. Very silky and supple overall feel with the rather high acidity taking care of the structure, while the gentle, powdery tannins contribute mainly to the silky smooth texture. The finish is ripe and juicy with a dry, moderately long aftertaste of ripe dark berries, some red cherries, a little bit of ferrous blood, light sulphurous notes of reduction, a hint of inky character and a touch of herby spice.
A pleasant little Cab Franc from the lighter and more delicate end of the spectrum. Unfortunately the wine was too reductive for enjoyment upon opening and even with good aeration the wine still felt a bit closed and skunky. There's a lot to love here, but the wine really calls for some aging to blow off all that reduction. Most likely this will need another 4-6 years before the reduction has subsided enough, but I expect the wine to evolve and keep for much longer. Expect the score to go up with age. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 23,77€.
(87 points) -
2017 Szászi Zeus Késői Szüret - Hungary, Balaton, Badacsonyi (4.3.2022)
This is the first time I've tasted a Zeus - another Hungarian crossing with a name starting with Z (like Zenit and Zeta). It is an early-ripening cross between Ezerjó and Bouvier and it is often used in sweeter wines as the grape often attains high must sugar levels. The biggest problem with the grapes is the difficulty in finding a suitable spot where the grape wouldn't ripen too early - in too warm locations the grape either doesn't have enough time to develop any flavor compounds if harvested at optimal ripeness, or lacks acidity if harvested too late. This wine is supposed to come from a suitable location where this early-ripening variety would have long enough growing season to develop flavor compounds without losing its acidity. Késői Szüret mean "late harvest". 10,5% alcohol.
Quite concentrated, deep and intensely-colored yellow-green appearance. The nose feels noticeably sweet with seductive, tropical-sweet aromas of dried pineapple, some lemon curd, a little bit of orange marmalade, light honeyed tones, waxy hints suggestive of botrytis and a touch of grape juice. The wine is sweet, full-bodied and slightly oily on the palate with rich flavors of beeswax and apple jam, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of acacia honey, light pineapple tones, a hint of orange marmalade and an exotic touch of mango. Thanks to its high acidity the wine is balanced and doesn't feel sticky despite its residual sugar. The finish is juicy, sweet and slightly oily with rich, persistent flavors of fruit cocktail, some pineapple tones, a little bit of apple jam, light lemon curd tones, a hint of sweet grapey fruit and a touch of beeswax.
A lovely, tasty and balanced late harvest white that is more dessert wine than a sweet white wine. The overall feel is still very brisk, zippy and youthful, borderline nervous, yet still wonderfully accessible and enjoyable. I just get a feeling that this wine could really benefit from additional aging; now the emphasis is on the bright and almost primary fruit flavors, whereas there seems to be lots of room for further development and tertiary complexity. Can be drunk now, but most likely will reward if patiently cellared. A positive surprise and great value at 5000 HUF (~13,50€).
(90 points) -
2010 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** Alte Reben Caldo Infernale - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4.3.2022)
You know what is a sign of a great wine? Having tasted a wine more than dozen times over a period of +5 years and even then it manages to blow your socks off, every single time.
That's how great this 2010 vintage of Caldo Infernale is. Since this wine was so similar to the bottle we had half a year ago, I don't bother with a new tasting note - you can check out my previous TNs how exceptional this wine constantly is.
A screaming bargain at 24€.
(98 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
