As it is almost Christmas now, what would be more apt than a tasting report on a rosé wine blind tasting we had in June?
Nothing, I guess!
I have to admit, rosé wines usually aren’t my thing. Unlike well-made orange wines, which - in my opinion - combine the best of the worlds in white wine and red wine, I think most rosé wines manage to the complete opposite: they combine the worst things of the two worlds. As many red grapes aren’t as high in acidity as most white grapes, the majority of structure, flavor and character come from the grape skins, not from the pulp. Hence when you remove the skin component, you basically get a wine that’s like a white wine lacking in structure. Or a red wine lacking in character. In my books rosé wines tend to be quite dilute, lacking in the acidity (which these kinds of lighter wines really call for) and flavor intensity which usually needs either skin contact, really flavorsome grape pulp (which red grapes rarely possess) or high acidity, which heightens flavor intensity. That’s why the few rosé wines I really enjoy tend to be either oxidatively made or oak-aged, have seen more skin contact than is typical for rosés, or are just otherwise distinctive or characterful.
So you can imagine how I might’ve been a bit wary when attending this blind rosé wine tasting. Fortunately, all my fears were unfounded! My friend, who threw this tasting, had managed to create a lineup filled with rosé wines that were full of substance and character! Some were quite impossible to guess correctly, others were ridiculously easy.
And, as always, we had a few extras in the end. There was also one Mondeuse from Savoie, but the bottle was taken away before I took a photo, so it isn’t pictured here.
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2019 Renardat-Fâche Cerdon - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon (8.6.2022)
A blend of organically farmed Gamay and Poulsard. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts until approximately 6% in alcohol, then lightly filtered and bottled to finish the fermentation in the bottle, producing the carbonation. 8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Light raspberry-red to medium-deep salmon-pink color. Rich, sweetly-fruited nose of strawberries, some creamy tones, a little bit of marmaladey raspberry or blackberry, a hint of rose hips and a touch of ripe red apple. The wine is medium-sweet and soft yet still wonderfully fresh and zippy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of wild strawberries, stony minerality, some raspberry juice, light candied notes of cherry marmalade or cocktail cherries, a hint of tart lingonberry and a mineral touch of salinity. The mouth-filling mousse feels rich, soft and quite mellow. Thanks to the high acidity, there's a wonderful balance between the moderate sweetness and refreshing acidity. The finish is moderately sweet and slightly sticky with medium-long flavors of strawberries, some cocktail cherries, light creamy nuances, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of crunchy apple and a touch of herbal bitterness.
A very lovely, balanced and eminently drinkable Cerdon with wonderful purity of fruit and great sense of balance between the bright acidity and moderate sweetness. I just love these Cerdons - they simply drink themselves! My first guess for the wine was Bugey-Cerdon, most likely Renardat-Fâche. I didn't guess which vintage the wine was, just one of the recent vintages. At approx. 14€ this is a superb purchase.
(89 points) -
NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Rosé de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (8.6.2022)
Blend no. 208: based on vintage 2018 Cote de Blancs Chardonnay (95%) and Cumières Pinot Noir (5%). The grapes are sourced from the Grands Crus of Cramant, Chouilly, Oger (45%), Premiers Crus of Cuis, Vertus (45%) and finally Pinot Noir red wine from 1er Cru Cumières. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, bottle-aged on the lees for 24 months. 12,5% alcohol, 5,5 g/l dosage. Tasted blind.
Pale, rather neutral seared salmon color. Very restrained and even somewhat closed nose with understated aromas of leesy creaminess, some ripe appley tones, a little bit of zesty citrus fruits, light crunchy notes of fresh white fruits and a red-toned hint of tart red berries. The wine is dry, clean and rather neutral on the palate with flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, some apple peel bitterness, light crunchy notes of fresh gooseberries, a little bit of leesy creaminess, a red-toned hint of cherry and a touch of chalky minerality. The wine is very high in acidity with a gentle, silky smooth mousse. The finish is dry, firm and rather short with a bit understated flavors of apple peel bitterness, some zesty notes of grapefruit, a little bit of sharp Granny Smith apple, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of tangy salinity.
A was floored when I learned that this wine turned out to be Gimonnet's Rosé de Blancs; I drank one of these on new year's eve, when it was very lovely - exactly how I remembered it should be - whereas this time the wine was very understated and I struggled to find all the nuances as the overall impression was surprisingly reticent, neutral even. I wonder if this was an off bottle or if there was something else going on - like the wine being in some kind of dumb phase - as this didn't feel like the same wine at all. I've enjoyed this wine greatly before, but this time it was quite a disappointment and not really worth the 40€.
(86 points) -
2018 Kortavebis Marani Rkatsiteli Rosé - Georgia, Kakheti (8.6.2022)
Unlike what the label says, this is not a rosé wine, but instead an orange wine made with Rkatsiteli Vardisperi aka. "Rkatsiteli Rosé" or "Pink Rkatsiteli" - a pink-skinned grape variety discovered in a Rkatsiteli vineyard in 1948. The wine is vinified with the skins in a kvevri, fermented spontaneously and bottled without fining or filtration. 12,3% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale golden-yellow color with a deep, coppery core and an almost colorless rim. The nose feels dry, savory and phenolic with aromas of rosin, some earthy-spicy notes of turmeric powder, a little bit of waxy funk, light smoky tones and a hint of clay. The wine is dry, savory and somewhat austere on the palate with rather phenolic flavors of rosin and bitter spices, some stony minerality, a little bit of waxy funk, light leathery tones, a hint of terracotta and a touch of ripe yellow fruits. The overall feel is moderately tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and rather grippy tannins. The finish is savory, moderately grippy and quite acid-driven with long and rather austere flavors of phenolic spice, some waxy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light smoky nuances and a hint of earthy spice.
Because this wine was in a rosé tasting, many attendees thought the wine was just off, because it was so unlike all the other wines; they were soft, fruity and easy, this was dry, austere and tannic with very little in the way of fruit. However, right from the first sniff and sip I thought this wine seemed like a Georgian amber wine, so even if we were in a rosé tasting, I insisted this was an orange wine and most likely a Georgian one at that. Well, it turned out that I was right - even if the wine label says "Dry Rosé Wine" for some reason. Looking at just the vinification process alone, this is not a rosé wine but a textbook example of orange wine. And pretty nice for one, too, although maybe a bit too much from the lean and austere end - I enjoyed the firm, structural feel here, but I could've liked if the wine showed a bit more fruit, just for the sake of balance.
(89 points) -
2017 Tardieu-Laurent Tavel Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Tavel (8.6.2022)
A blend of old-vine Grenache (60%), Cinsaut (30%) and Syrah (10%) from organically 40-to-50 yo vineyards in Tavel. Aged for 6 months in concrete tanks. Bottled unfined and with light filtration. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale rosy pink color. Sweet, rich and very ripe - even somewhat extracted - nose of strawberries, some primary notes of pear, a little bit of raspberry jam, light juicy notes of succulent stone fruits and a hint of apple sauce. The wine is ripe, broad and somewhat extracted on the palate with a round, full body and juicy flavors of strawberries, some apricots, a little bit of lemon, light raspberry marmalade tones, a hint of alcohol warmth and a touch of pear. Even though the wine is quite round and full in body and the acidity feels medium-to-moderately high, the wine doesn't come across as fat or ponderous. The finish is rich, juicy and quite mellow with some alcohol heat and medium-long flavors of strawberries, some melon, a little bit of apple sauce, light peachy tones, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of candied primary fruit.
A nice, rich and clean Tavel that is surprisingly youthful for its age. Normally rosé wines are recommended to be drunk within a year from the release or two from the vintage, whereas this wine feels still noticeably primary even though it is almost 5 years old! However, the wine has gained very little complexity with age, and the overall feel is rather simple and straightforward. Even if the fruit comes from older vineyards, the wine doesn't really have much old-vine depth or complexity, just probably some additional sense of ripeness and extraction. Still the wine doesn't feel as bold and concentrated as some Tavels, which can feel even bigger and more powerful than some light red wines - this just feels like a regular rosé wine. Perhaps a bit too big and ripe for the style, at least from perspective.
(88 points) -
2011 Olivier Horiot Rosé des Riceys En Barmont - France, Champagne, Rosé des Riceys (8.6.2022)
100% Pinot Noir from the biodynamically farmed En Barmont vineyard. Vinified mostly in whole bunches, only small amount (10%) destemmed. Vatted on 2nd of September, 2011, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for a week and moved to oak barrels on 9th of September. Aged for 11 months in neutral, old oak barrels, bottled on 1st of August, 2012. 12% alcohol. Bottle #1460 of total 1500 bottles (and 30 magnums). Tasted blind.
Deep, moderately translucent ruby red color with an evolved brick-red hue. I described the appearance as "Burgundy Pinot Noir rather than rosé" before the label was revealed. The nose feels open, expressive, somewhat wild and slightly vegetal with aromas of crunchy cranberries, some zesty chinotto notes reminiscent of Campari, a little bit of unripe, leafy greenness, light strawberry tones, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of sappy herbal character. The wine is dry, very acid-driven and somewhat thin on the palate with a light body and slightly unripe flavors of cranberries, some leafy greenness, a little bit of lifted zesty Campari character, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of raw beetroot. The structure relies on the bracing acidity, although there seems to be a tiny bit of tannic grip as well. The finish is crisp, tart and quite lean with flavors of tart lingonberries, some crunchy green apple tones, a little bit of Campari, light sappy notes of herbaceous leafy character, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of unripe strawberry.
Up to this point Olivier Horiot's Rosés des Riceys have been some of the most compelling rosé wines I've tasted - substantial, yet fresh, precise and always showing immense aging potential for the genre. However, it seems even Olivier was not able to escape the throes of the miserable 2011 vintage, as this wine bears no resemblance to the other vintages of this wine that I've tasted. This is thin, lean and green, coming across as almost unripe and lacking the depth and fruit that is typical for Horiot's Rosés des Riceys. However, I still managed to identify the wine correctly, as it was tasted in a rosé blind tasting and I don't know any other style of rosé wine I'd confuse for a red wine from its color. I simply deduced that due to the unripe, vegetal, green nuances this must be 2011 - as these characteristics are so typical of the vintage - and as I couldn't think of any other Riceys producer, I guessed Horiot's En Barmot 2011. Correct with the first guess.
(82 points) -
2016 Clos Cibonne Tibouren Côtes de Provence Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (8.6.2022)
A rosé wine made either entirely or mostly (+90%) from organically farmed Tibouren (aka. Rossese di Dolceacqua) with a little bit of Grenache in the blend, vintage permitting. The wine is fermented spontaneously in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, after which the lots are blended and moved to age in very old (100-120 yo) 1000-liter oak casks, in which the wine is aged under a thin yeast voile called fleurette for a minimum of 12 months. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale peachy rosy-yellow color. Juicy yet more savory and spicy rather than sweet nose with a faint hint of skunky reduction, which blows off to reveal aromas of fresh apple, some earthy spices, a little bit of creamy character suggesting oak aging, light peachy tones and a hint of golden currants. The wine is dry, balanced and clean on the palate with a silky smooth texture, a medium body and flavors of fresh white fruits, some crunchy red apple, a little bit of ripe gooseberry, light creamy tones, a mineral hint of wet stones and a touch of savory spices. The high acidity lends good sense of firmness and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, long and mouth-cleansing with dry flavors of ripe red apple, some savory spice, a little bit of white peach, light stony mineral tones, a hint of ripe gooseberry and a touch of dried herbs.
A very tasty, balanced and enjoyably structured rosé that is relatively aged for a Provençal rosé, yet comes across as still wonderfully youthful and precise for its age. Most likely this wine will continue to evolve until its 10th birthday, and then keep just fine for years more. What's interesting here is that even if the Cibonne rosés are said to age under a thin yeast fleurette, the wines don't exhibit any of those aldehydic nuances typically associated with wines aged sous voile. On the contrary, I immediately thought the wine was obviously a Provençal rosé, albeit not a typical, easy-drinking rosé normally associated with Provence. Due to the savory, somewhat spicy and quite structure-driven nature of the wine and the subtly creamy nuances suggesting oak aging, I guessed this was a Bandol rosé from the lighter end of the spectrum. Close, but no cigar; yes, this was from Provence, but Bandol is some 25 km / 15 miles away from Clos Cibonne and the spicy notes came from Tibouren, not Mourvèdre. Oh well, at least I was in the ballpark!
(91 points) -
2016 Château Henri Bonnaud Palette Rosé - France, Provence, Palette (8.6.2022)
A blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut. The grapes are only crushed, not pressed. Fermented in stainless steel, aged for 8 months in tanks (80%) and barriques (20%). 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately pale to medium-deep salmon pink color with a peachy-orange rim. The nose feels quite ripe yet at the fresh and zippy at the same time with a little bit of reductive gunpowder smoke, followed by notes of red apple, some fresh white fruit, a little bit of stony minerality, light creamy nuances and a hint of cantaloupe. The wine feels ripe and moderately full-bodied on the palate, but wonderfully firm and acid-driven as well. The overall feel is fresh and harmonious with bright flavors of wild strawberries, some white peach and ripe apricot, a little bit of stony minerality, light creamy tones, a hint of perfumed floral character and a reductive touch of gunpowder smoke. The high acidity lends great sense of intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is bright, zippy and juicy with rather ripe yet dry flavors of fresh white fruits, some creamy oak, a little bit of fresh apple, light smoky notes of reduction, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of cantaloupe.
A beautiful, harmonious and tasty rosé that had a somewhat Provençal feel to it, yet managing to come across as a bit more substantial and concentrated than a typical Provence rosé would, yet showing remarkable freshness and precision for its ripeness. Based on the smoky tones and subtly creamy nuances suggesting oak aging, I guessed this was a Clos Cibonne rosé - as Cibonne wines can be somewhat reductive at times - but instead the neighboring wine we tasted turned out to be a Clos Cibonne rosé, whereas this wine came from the neighboring appellation of Palette. All in all, this wine managed to surprise me positively - this wasn't even Bonnaud's flagship rosé, yet this was among one of the best wines we had in our rosé tasting, showing great sense of depth, structure and harmony. It was also noteworthy how seemingly young the wine was at almost 6 years of age - it's possible this wine will not only keep, but also evolve further with additional aging. A gorgeous example of Palette rosé.
(93 points) -
2016 Chateau Musar Rosé - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (8.6.2022)
A blend of white Obaideh (57%) and Merwah (40%) with a 3% addition of red Cinsaut to add color. All varieties are blended, co-fermented and aged for 6-9 months in French oak barrels. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale peachy orange color. Sweet, distinctively perfumed nose with aromas of strawberry marshmallow, marzipan, some floral notes of cow parsley bloom, a little bit of apple jam, light sawdusty notes of dull woody oak, a hint of Hubba-Bubba and a touch of white peach. The wine is ripe, crunchy and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with dry flavors of fresh red apple and white peach, some perfumed floral notes, a little bit of dull, sawdusty oak, light woolly notes of lanolin, a candied hint of marshmallow and a mineral touch of wet stones. The high acidity lends the wine good sense of freshness and structure. The finish is crisp yet a bit dull with medium-long flavors of sawdust and woolly lanolin, some floral notes of cow parsley, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of ripe white peach and a touch of salinity.
The wine was very easily recognizable and several people guessed Chateau Musar Rosé, me included, 2016 vintage being the most likely suspect. While the wine showed good freshness with its high acidity, the overall feel was a bit dull and dusty with the dry woody oak lending a somewhat woolly character to the wine. The tutti frutti notes from the fruit department didn't really go that well with the woody tones either. The wine isn't funky in any way - unlike most Musar reds and some whites - but even though this rosé is based on the white Musar, it lacks the richness and complexity of its white counterpart. I wonder if it's because of the age (white Musar is always released with a lot more bottle age) or if there is something else going on. Even if I'm a big fan of Musar reds and whites, these rosé versions rarely seem to do the trick - at least not without significant bottle age. While it was obvious in our rosé blind tasting that this was Musar, this time it really didn't leave as lasting an impression as many other rosé wines did.
(88 points) -
2018 Venus La Universal Montsant Dido La Solució Rosa - Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Montsant (8.6.2022)
A blend of Grenache (55%), Macabeo (20%), Carignan (10%), Grenache Blanc (10%) and Grenache Gris (5%) pressed and co-fermented together. The Grenaches bring fruit and volume, while Carignan and Macabeo bring acidity and keep the alcohol level moderate. The wine is slowly fermented and then aged for 6 months in small oak barrels, after which the barrels are blended together and aged for another 10 months in a large, 50 years old foudre and a 3000-liter clay vessel.
Pale bronze orange color with a light pinkish core. Sweet, peachy nose with aromas of juicy stone fruits, some leather, a little bit of bretty funk, light brambly notes of raspberry, a hint of creamy oak, a touch of earthy spice and a whiff of wild strawberry. The wine is ripe, rich and slightly funky on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of fresh peach, some leather, a little bit of phenolic spice, light crunchy notes of red apple, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of waxy funk. The overall feel is juicy, enjoyably complex and wonderfully fresh and structured for a wine this big and ripe, all thanks to the bright, high acidity, although there is also a minuscule hint of tannic texture here as well. The finish is rich, ripe and juicy with firm, dry-ish flavors of savory spices, some leathery funk, a little bit of peachy stone fruit, light smoky notes of phenolic spice, a sweet hint of apple jam and a touch of creamy oak.
A beautiful, complex and harmonious rosé that manages to blend a quite ripe and substantial style of wine into great, acid-driven freshness and slightly funky rusticity. It feels as if several different wines are joined together here as one, single and seamless union. A very distinctive, captivating and immensely enjoyable effort. This is drinking mighty well right now, but most likely will continue to evolve and improve for years more. A very lovely wine indeed. Highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2018 Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé Nuances - France, Provence, Bandol (8.6.2022)
This is the special "reserve" version of Pibarnon's rosé. The wine is mainly composed of Mourvèdre (95%) with a tiny bit of Cinsault. Aged in a combination of 3000-liter Stockinger foudres and clay jars for 10 months, bottled in July 2019 and aged for two years in bottles before release. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale pinkish seared salmon color. At first the nose seemed a bit dull, even slightly stinky with a bit disagreeable aromas of flatulent reduction and other funky tones. However, the nose clears up slowly and with time starts revealing aromas of strawberries, some herby notes of chamomile and almost lager-like noble hop nuances, a little bit of brambly raspberry, a hint of bruised apple and a mineral touch of chalk dust. The wine is dry and slightly round on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of fresh peach, some savory spicy tones, a little bit of brambly raspberries, light herby notes reminiscent of hoppy pilsner, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of wild strawberry. The quite high acidity keeps the wine in balance. The finish is quite long, somewhat round and a bit mellow with slightly sweetly-fruited flavors of peachy stone fruit, some cantaloupe, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light herby notes of noble hops and chamomile and a sweeter hint of apple jam.
At first the wine seemed not just closed, but even slightly unpleasant with a bit off-putting nose, but fortunately the wine cleared with some air and turned out perfectly fine after awhile. Many people in our rosé tasting dismissed the wine immediately as faulty and it took some convincing to make them see the wine was actually a decent effort if just given some air. Nevertheless, this really didn't feel on par with the best Bandol rosés and it didn't really leave a lasting impression. However, seeing how the wine is made to be a "rosé wine that can be aged", I'm willing to accept the wine was not opened at the best possible moment and it might actually get better with some additional aging.
(89 points) -
2016 Terroir Al Limit Soc. Lda. Priorat Roc d'Aubaga - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (8.6.2022)
A Grenache blend of three different mutations: Blanc (80%), Gris (10%) and Rouge (10%). Fermented spontaneously, macerated for a week with the skins. Aged for 6 months in glass demijohns and bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol. Total production 1268 bottles. Served blind.
Luminous, deep rosy pink to pale raspberry red color. Rich, juicy and very sunny nose with vibrant aromas of strawberries, some raspberry jam, a little bit of sweet boysenberry, light marmaladey tones and a hint of savory spice. The wine is rich, dense and rather concentrated on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of ripe strawberries, some raspberry juice, light marmaladey notes of boysenberries, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of savory spice and a touch of fresh stone fruits. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine, although a wine this big and ripe could use a bit more freshness and acidity. The finish is ripe, rich and juicy with a quite long aftertaste of fresh apricots, some strawberry, light spicy tones, a little bit of boysenberry marmalade, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of stony minerality.
I was surprised to learn this was Terroir al Límit's rosé, as the 2015 vintage I tasted some years ago seemed lighter and less ripe in style, showing less weight and more precision. This 2016 vintage, on the other hand, seemed more like what you would expect from a Priorat rosé: a big, ripe and sunny wine with lots of strawberry-driven Grenache fruit. While the wine is still fully enjoyable and impressively balanced for its size, it doesn't reach the freshness and finesse of the 2015 vintage. However, the might still pick up additional depth and complexity with further aging, as it still seems to be mostly about youthful fruit and there's a lot of room for evolution here.
(90 points) -
2015 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rosé Fleur de Pinot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé (8.6.2022)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir (90%) from Champforeys, planted in 1934, and Charme Aux Prêtres, planted in 1949 and Pinot Beurot (aka. Pinot Gris; 10%) from En Blangey, planted in 1932. Half of the grapes are directly pressed to yield colorless juice, the other half is macerated with the skins for 36-48 hours. The resulting wines are fermented spontaneously and aged for two years in oak barrels. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale reddish-orange color. Fragrant, somewhat lifted and a bit wild with aromas of crunchy lingonberries, some aldehydic notes of green almonds and green apple slices, a little bit of creamy oak, light savory nuances of woody oak spice, a hint of sweet, ethery VA and a touch of brambly raspberry. The overall feel is quite fresh, but also slightly natty - and the aldehydic nuances lend a tiny bit of oxidative character to the wine. The wine is ripe and even somewhat oily yet at the same time quite fresh and lively on the palate with a medium body and slightly concentrated flavors of bruised apple, hay, some red-toned notes of juicy red berries, a little bit of Granny Smith apple, light aldehydic nuances of green almonds and sorrel ,a hint of creamy oak and a touch of toasty oak spice. Despite its ripeness, the wine isn't sweetly-fruited and the overall feel is surprisingly high in acidity for the ripeness. The finish is juicy, long and slightly natty with dry flavors of tangy green apple, some nutty tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light tart notes of crunchy cranberries, a hint of toasty oak spice and an aldehydic touch of green almond.
This was quite a fascinating wine. The wine was obviously quite ripe, based on the overall sense of weight, concentration and slightly oily mouthfeel, yet the wine was dry, fresh and crunchy at the same time. However, I'm quite certain the wine was a bit off and not how it should be, when it comes to the green aldehydic nuances - although the wine was somewhat natty, I'm quite sure it wasn't made in a style that would result in aldehydic qualities (namely, aging sous voile), which is why this wine didn't seem to perform as well as it could have. Although I found the aldehydic notes a bit distracting, many others didn't seem to be bothered that much by them, and for some this was even one of the best rosés we had in our rosé blind tasting. So all in all, this was a good wine made in a lovely, distinctive and wonderfully fresh style, but I'm positive that a bottle from a cooler vintage and/or without any aldehydic qualities would be even noticeably better.
(87 points) -
2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (8.6.2022)
A blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%). Aged for 4 years in oak barriques and for further 6 years in bottles before release. 13% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 20,000 bottles. Decanted for a few hours before tasting the wine. Tasted blind.
Pale, somewhat evolved coppery orange color. Complex, subtly oxidative and very nuanced nose with attractive aromas of caramel, some browned butter, a little bit of bruised apple, light nutty tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of grated coconut. The wine is dry, firm and beautifully complex on the palate with a medium body and subtly oxidative flavors of caramel, some bruised apple, a little bit of creamy richness, light strawberry tones, a hint of nuttiness and a touch of savory old wood spice. The wonderfully high acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is complex, silky in texture yet still wonderfully crunchy and acid-driven with fresh, layered flavors of red apple, some oxidative nutty tones, a little bit of developed caramel character, light creamy tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of savory wood spice.
A beautiful, fresh and complex Tondonia Rosado that shows all the typical textbook qualities of this label - namely that exceptional tertiary complexity from prolonged aging in old oak barrels - but even if Tondonia Rosado is typically a very fresh and precise wine for such a distinctive, aged rosé, this vintage seems to pack even a bit more brightness, freshness and verve compared to the surrounding vintages of 2009 and 2011. This is slightly less about fruit and a bit more about zippy acidity, yet without showing any compromise in the intensity of the complex tertiary nuances. This is a spectacular rosé that is in a superb spot already now, yet still managing to show potential for even further development. As always, this wine might not be affordable for a rosé wine at 50€, but boy does it deliver bang for the buck. Exceptional stuff.
(95 points) -
2017 Alexandre d'Almeida Bucaco Rosado Reservado - Portugal (8.6.2022)
A unique rosé wine, vinified at the Palace Hotel of Buçaco and mainly reserved for the hotel guests - only a small number of bottles get distributed by Niepoort Projectos. This is a 100% Baga that is fermented and aged for 6 months in used 300-liter oak barrels. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, quite pale, pinkish salmon red color. The nose feels nuanced, very fine-tuned and immensely attractive with complex, subtly toasty aromas of fresh white peach, some nutty woody tones, a little bit of sweet raspberry-driven red fruit, light caramel nuances, creamy hints of browned butter and custard, a touch of cool, stony minerality and a whiff of bruised apple. So much going on here. The wine is dry, juicy and precise on the palate with complex, savory flavors of raspberry-driven red, crunchy fruits and toasty notes of smoke and nutty wood spice, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of fresh Golden Delicious apple, tart hints of lemon and fresh green gooseberry and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The high acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is long, lively and complex with dry, crunchy flavors of sharp green apple and lemony citrus fruits, some smoky notes of toasty wood, a little bit of creamy oak, light nutty notes of chopped walnuts, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of brambly raspberry.
Well this was a positive surprise! A rosé wine that combines wonderful freshness and precision with exceptional complexity, nuance and depth of flavor. The overall impression was nothing short of excellent, showing some developed, mature tones, yet still leaving an impression of a bright and still remarkably youthful wine that holds a lot of promise for future development. If it weren't for the Rosado Gran Reserva by López de Heredia, this would've been my WotN in our tasting of exceptional rosé wines. Not a particularly cheap wine at 40€, but I must say, this wine delivers for the price. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) -
NV Laurent-Perrier Coteaux Champenois Rosé - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (8.6.2022)
A rare old bottle of Laurent-Perrier's rosé - and what's even more fascinating is that this isn't a red but rosé Coteaux Champenois! No mention of alc% in the label. Tasted blind.
Very evolved, oxidative, coppery color. Very evolved, oxidative and tertiary nose with aromas of caramel, some toffee, a little bit of bruised apple, light notes of mushroomy funk, a nutty hint of Tawny Port and a touch of smoke. The wine feels dry, thin and oxidative on the palate with dull, oxidized flavors of bruised apple and rancid nuts, tart lemony citrus fruits, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of toffee, light honeyed nuances, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of tangy salinity. The wine is very high in acidity. The finish is dull yet crisp and crunchy with oxidized flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some tangy saline nuances, a little bit of sharp green apple, light oxidative notes of chopped nuts, tertiary hints of damp leaves and mushroomy funk and a touch of browned butter.
While an academic curiosity - a Coteaux Champenois Rosé with several decades of age - this was still way too old for enjoyment. The appearance was already quite worrisome, but the nose turned out to be quite enjoyable and pleasantly oxidative, not too old. However, on the palate things made a turn to worse and the wine was pretty dull, old and quite oxidized with very little pleasure remaining. An interesting piece of history, but perhaps not one meant to age for this long.
(NR/flawed) -
2016 Kutch Pinot Noir McDougall Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8.6.2022)
100% Pinot Noir from McDougall Ranch planted to Dijon clones 114 and 115 in 1997. 25% of the fruit is destemmed, 75% vinified in whole clusters, resulting in partial semi-carbonic fermentation at the beginning of the spontaneous fermentation. Aged in 100% used, neutral oak barrels. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, translucent ruby red color. Open, wonderfully fragrant and subtly floral nose with layered aromas of red-fruited Pinosity and brambly raspberry, some fresh cherry tones, a little bit of earth, light savory wood notes of old oak, a hint of wild strawberry, a perfumed touch of violets and a candied whiff of red-toned carbonic character. Beautifully fresh and expressive overall feel that has Pinot Noir written all over it. The wine is ripe and fruit-forward yet wonderfully fresh, dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of ripe lingonberries and sour cherries, some meaty umami, a little bit of savory wood spice, light earthy tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of floral lift. The overall feel is bright, firm and precise, thanks to the wonderfully high acidity and balanced, gentle medium tannins. The dry finish is long and crunchy with lovely flavors of ripe cranberries and tart lingonberries, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of peppery Pinosity and a touch of savory old oak spice.
A fantastic, fresh and beautifully poised Sonoma Pinot that combines wonderful old-world freshness and structure-driven style to new-world ripeness and vibrancy. I thought the wine was obviously Pinot Noir from the first sniff, but most other attendees in the tasting wondered whether the wine was red Burgundy or Gamay from Cru Beaujolais (I can understand the carbonic character might've fooled some people). However, even if the wine was as fresh and precise as I like my Burgundies, I thought the fruit style was slightly more Californian. I guessed Central Coast, possibly Santa Lucia Highlands, whereas other attendee guessed 2016 Napa Pinot. Well, Napa this wasn't but still close enough, kudos to him. All in all, this was one of the most attractive young Pinot Noirs I've had in a while and a wine that truly shows the potential of what kind of stuff a deft winemaker can make with quality fruit from Sonoma. A Burgundy drinker's Cali Pinot, if there ever was one. Drink now or keep for years more - this will keep and improve. Excellent stuff, highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2018 Giorgi Natenadze Meskhuri - Georgia, Samtskhe-Javakheti, Meskheti (8.6.2022)
A very unique wine, made with grape varieties growing wild in Meskheti - a region on the southern edge of Georgia, bordering Turkey. Meskheti was under Ottoman rule from the 17th century until the early 1800's; in this period the Ottomans raided the villages and destroyed the vineyards, so there has been no winemaking or viticulture in Meskheti for some 400 years. Giorgi Natenadze - a Meskheti native - has been scouting for old grapevines growing in the nature and old, abandoned villages and has thus far found at least 40 different, unique varieties, of which only 26 have been identified. This Meskhuri ("Meskhetian") is a blend of three different varieties found growing wild among the trees in the mountains of Meskheti: Meskhuri Sapere ("Meskheti's colorlful"), Meskhuri Kharistvala ("Meshkheti's bull's eye) and Tskhenis Dzudzu Tetri ("Horse's breast white"). The massively thick, serpentine Tskhenis Dzudzu vines are estimated to be 200-400 years old, possibly predating the Ottoman rule. The grapes are harvested and vinified together, fermenting and macerating for 6 months in earthenware kvevris, after which the wines are racked off the skins, blended together and aged in stainless steel tanks. Bottle #1835 of total 2500 bottles. 11,5% alcohol.
Luminous and moderately translucent raspberry red color with a youthful purplish hue. The distinctive nose is very sweet and youthful - almost primary - with a sort of wild grape character, not quite foxy, but having that sort of undomesticated, sweet yet slightly floral and slightly green overall aroma. All in all the nose feels clean and vibrant with aromas of raspberry juice, some ripe blueberries, a little bit of boysenberry, light grapey tones, green hints of pine needle and tarragon, a touch of strawberry candy and a whiff of ink. The wine is dry, clean and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body with fresh flavors of ripe red forest berries and tart lingonberries, some crunchy crowberries, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light bilberry nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of pine needle. The overall feel is quite firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins that slowly pile on the gums. The finish is dry, crunchy and moderately grippy with acid-driven flavors of lingonberries, some cranberries, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light grapey nuances, crunchy hints of crowberries and chokeberries and a touch of pine needles.
A clean, quite light and wonderfully characterful Georgian red that is quite unlike any wine I've had before, at least aromatically. There's definitely some wild, untamed character here, vaguely reminiscent of some wines made with non-vinifera grape varieties, but still coming across as quite classic wine, not a rustic or weird, foxy oddball (I don't even know if Meskhuri Sapere, Meskhuri Kharistvala and Tskhenis Dzudzu are Vitis vinifera - although most likely they are, since Georgia-Armenia is the birthplace of vinifera and you really don't see any other species there). What's most striking here, though, is that this wine is a minimum interventionist wine, made with non-cultivated (ie. free-growing) grapes, vinified in a traditional Georgian kvevri and yet it tastes like a contemporary red wine! When I served the wine blind, people's guesses ranged from Jura and Savoie to Italian lesser-known grape varieties and wines of the Balkans. This is definitely a unique wine, but wonderfully fresh, harmonious and enjoyably structured at that. Priced according to its quality at 36€.
(92 points) -
2021 Vincent Ruiz Les Noces Alchimiques - France, Rhone, Vin de France (8.6.2022)
Vincent Ruiz has worked as Franck Balthazar's assistant winemaker before starting making wines on his own in 2020. Les Noces Alchimiques is 100% old-vine Grenache made with purchased fruit sourced from an organically farmed vineyard planted in 1957 in southern Ardèche. Whole-bunch fermentation using semi-carbonic maceration in stainless steel tanks, aged in vats, vinified without sulfites. As the wine is Vin de France, there is no vintage designation, just lot number "Lot 01-21". 12% alcohol.
Luminous, pale and quite translucent raspberry red color with a youthful garnet hue. The nose feels sweet, somewhat wild and a bit lifted with aromas of brambly raspberries, wild strawberries and ripe cherries, some peppery spice, a little bit of volatile nail polish character, light reductive nuances of gunpowder smoke and hard-boiled eggs, an acetic hint of VA and a touch of roasted game. The wine is juicy, youthful and a bit natty on the palate with a light-to-medium body and vibrant, slightly sweetish flavors of ripe blackberries and raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of boysenberry marmalade, light lifted notes of nail polish, a smoky hint of reduction and a touch of jammy dark berries, The overall feel is a bit round but still quite balanced, thanks to the moderately high acidity and ripe medium tannins that slowly pile on the gums. The rather long finish is dry, fresh and gently grippy with lively and somewhat crunchy flavors of brambly raspberries and fresh wild strawberries, some crunchy crowberry, a little bit of lifted VA, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of blackberry and a touch of smoky reduction.
A nice, ripe yet balanced little bistro Grenache that feels slightly lighter, crunchier and more darker-toned than your run-of-the-mill Rhône Grenache. However, the overall wine is still on that smashable, easy-drinking natural wine end of things, not a stern, serious and complex Grenache made to age. Although the wine feels a bit round, it fortunately lacks the dull softness quite typical of many contemporary Rhône Grenaches, sporting enough acidity and tannic firmness to keep the wine enjoyably balanced. If anything, I wish the wine showed a bit less VA - even if the wine isn't heavily volatile or disagreeable in any way, I feel I would've enjoyed the wine more with a bit less VA. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 20€.
(88 points) -
2013 G. et. G. Bouvet Mondeuse Vin de Savoie Cuvée Guillaume Charles - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie (8.6.2022)
The flagship wine of Domaine Bouvet, made from specifically selected parcels of Mondeuse. 90% destemmed, 10% in whole bunches. Fermented and macerated for 3 weeks with daily punch-downs, then aged for 14-24 months - depending on a vintage - in new and once used oak barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark, deep and luminous cherry red color that permits some light through. The nose is noticeably Syrah-like in character with intense aromas of crunchy red berries and crushed peppercorns, some brambly blackberries, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light smoky notes of struck flint, leafy hints without any obvious vegetal qualities and a touch of earth. The wine feels dry, lean and surprisingly weightless on the palate with a light-to-medium body and very focused flavors of brambly black raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of crushed peppercorns, light leafy nuances, a hint of stony minerality and a subtle touch of sweeter oak spice. The overall feel is surprisingly stern and structured, thanks to the noticeably high acidity and quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is dry, lean and crunchy with quite noticeable tannic grip and lengthy flavors of crunchy crowberries, some brambly raspberry, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light spicy notes of crushed peppercorns, a mineral hint of wet stones and a touch of leafy greenness.
My first guess was a resounding Northern Rhône Syrah, because this wine seemed like an old-school Syrah with its noticebly peppery tones, brambly fruit profile emphasizing blackberries and raspberries and a lean mineral undertone. The leafy nuances threw me a bit off, but I attributed them to a cooler vintage, thinking this could've been a 2014 or 2011, perhaps Côte-Rôtie or Crozes-Hermitage. Well, it wasn't. Both me and the others continued on throwing other cooler-climate Syrah guesses until we were told we should discard the idea of Syrah. Then I went with Schioppettino, which was incorrect again. I really don't know why I never thought of Mondeuse, because I've mistaken Mondeuse for a Syrah in the past as well! Anyways, this is a terrific, lean and structure-driven wine with quite a bit of substance as well. Definitely an old-school Northern Rhône Syrah drinker's wine! I can imagine this wine might've been more polished and oaky in its youth, but now, at almost 9 years of age, the wine is drinking mighty well and probably will continue to improve for a good handful of years more. Not affordable at approx. 50€, but manages to deliver for the price.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker