So, a report from a tasting where we had a bunch of naturalistas. A few well-known names, but most were quite obscure - at least to me.
There were a couple of very nice and lovely wines, but the overall level of quality wasn’t particularly thrilling. We also had two wines that were easily among the mousiest wines I’ve ever tasted. They both were so ridiculously mousy that you could actually just smell the glass and say “Yup, definitely mousy”. And I want to stress that it was not smelling so wild and funky you think that there’s no way this wine is not going to be mousy, but these wines actually smelled mousy. Normally one can taste THP only in the aftertaste when saliva in your mouth brings the pH high enough to make THP volatile, in turn making it “tasteable” ie. mousy. However, in this case you didn’t even need to taste the wine - you could already smell the mousiness. And the wine tasted somewhat mousy the moment it hit your tongue - you didn’t need to spit or swallow it to detect the mousiness!
Fun, fun times.
-
2019 Sistema Vinari Novetat Total - Spain, Balearic Islands (30.5.2022)
A naturalist non-appellation red wine by the 4 Kilos winemaker, Eloi Cedó Perelló. No vintage designation, only lot number "lnt19". A blend of young-vine Callet (50%) and Manto Negro (50%) from Felanitx, Mallorca. Spontaneously fermented; Callet partly destemmed and macerated with the skins for a month, Manto Negro completely destemmed and macerated with the skins for two weeks. Aged in an oak vat for 9 months. Bottled unfiltered with minimal sulfites into 1-liter bottles. 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and completely translucent blood-red color. Youthful, slightly wild and subtly reduced nose with aromas of fresh dark berries, some flinty notes of smoke, a little bit of crunchy crowberry, light spicy phenolic tones and a brambly hint of black raspberry. The wine is lively, playful and fresh on the palate with a light-to-medium body and dry flavors of licorice root, ripe raspberries, some juicy cherry tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light bretty nuances of phenolic spice, a hint of barnyard funk and a faint, sharp touch of acetic VA. The acidity is a bit on the soft side and there are no tannins to speak of. The finish is juicy, fresh and subtly acetic with medium-long flavors of licorice, ripe black cherries, some peppery spicy notes, a little bit of phenolic spice, light bretty nuances of leathery funk and a faint hint of acetic VA. After an hour or two the aftertaste starts to develop some unpleasant mousy nuances that only grow in intensity as the bottle remains open.
A pleasant, quite natural and a bit harmless little Mallorcan red. Seems like this is an unambitious red meant for easy-drinking purposes, where the wine doesn't need to be the centerpiece of attention. Best drunk very soon after popping the bottle open, as the wine seems to turn slightly mousy after a little while.
(83 points) -
2020 Thibaud Capellaro Klima - France, Vin de France (30.5.2022)
A naturalist red wine made by Slope Wines, a négociant project by Condrieu native Thibaud Capellaro. The label bears no vintage designation, I was just told the wine is 2020. Made with Grenache (50%) and Syrah (50%) sourced from Ardèche, vinified spontaneously with semi-carbonic maceration over 8 days, followed by pigeage with feet. Aged for 8 months in old oak casks. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, fully translucent and quite pale raspberry red color. Ripe and juicy nose with somewhat linear, fruit-driven aromas of blueberry juice, some sweet strawberry and a little bit of blackberry marmalade. The wine feels ripe, sunny and quite easy-drinking on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and juicy flavors of sweet blackberries, some peppery spice, a little bit of strawberry, light cherry tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of licorice root. The structure relies mostly on the rather high acidity, as there are no obvious tannic grip to speak of. The slightly sweet-toned finish is ripe, round and a bit on the short side with a gentle, juicy aftertaste of blueberries, some blackberries, a little bit of licorice root and a hint of wild strawberry.
A pleasant but also a bit soft and innocuous little naturalist red. There's nothing wrong here, the wine feels varietally correct and has an air of Rhône to it. However, it still feels like a simple bistro wine that you can drink easily without thinking twice. There's just nothing special to write home about. A nice but ultimately quite ho-hum effort. Doesn't really feel like it's worth the 20-22€.
(85 points) -
2016 Samuel Boulay Vin de France Aleph - France, Vin de France (30.5.2022)
A blend of Alicante Bouschet, Grenache and Merlot from Ardèche. The grapes are vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously in concrete tanks, then aged for 30 months in old, neutral oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.
Luminous, medium-deep and moderately translucent cherry-red color with a youthful ruby hue. The nose feels quite sweet and slightly lifted with rich aromas of strawberry jam, some raspberry marmalade, light cherry tones and an acetic hint of VA. Contrasting the sweet nose, the wine turns out to be surprisingly fresh and relatively light-bodied on the palate with dry flavors of cherries, brambly raspberries and crunchy cranberries, some funky notes of leather saddle, a little bit of balsamic VA, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a lifted hint of medicinal ether and a touch of ripe strawberry. The overall feel is balanced and moderately structured, thanks to the high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is juicy and gently grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of wild strawberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of old leather, light cherry tones and a hint of acetic VA.
A pleasant and balanced naturalista that comes across as serious and complex red rather than a simple, natty bistro wine. Still, I wouldn't describe the as a big personality, but at least it shows good sense of structure and depth of flavor, and despite the sweetness in the nose, the wine still comes across as enjoyably fresh and dry on the palate. The only little blemish is the elevated level of VA, which lends at times a little bit of acetic sharpness to the taste - a characteristic I could live well without. All things considered, this is a pretty nice wine, although a bit expensive for the quality at 36€.
(87 points) -
2014 Davide Bentivegna Etna Notti Stellate - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (30.5.2022)
For some reason Notti Stellate is DOC Etna in some vintages, IGT Terre Siciliane in others. In 2014 the wine was labeled IGT Terre Siciliane. This is a blend of organically farmed Nerello Mascalese (85%) and Nerello Capuccio (5%) with the remaining 10% rounded out by Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, Syrah and other local red varieties. The grapes are sourced from the 70-yo parcel in Contrada Galfina, located on the hills of Etna. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for approximately two weeks and aged in old chestnut barrels for anything between 10 and 24 months, depending on vintage (and/or source). The lot number is LCG01-14. 13% alcohol.
Quite deep and dark plummy color that permits relatively little light through, except for the quite pale rim. The nose feels somewhat restrained with aromas of ripe dark berries, some dusty earthy notes, a little bit of sweet pruney fruit, light bretty notes of leathery funk, a hint of bilberry and a lifted, sweet touch of ethery VA. The wine is surprisingly serious and structured on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of dusty cherries, brambly black raspberries and some sour cherry bitterness, light pomegranate tones, light volcanic nuances of smoky reduction, a hint of savory spices and a lifted touch of sweet volatile character. The overall feel is quite tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is savory, long and somewhat grippy with flavors of dusty cherries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light earthy notes, a hint of phenolic spice and touch of ethery VA.
A surprisingly clean, balanced and serious naturalist Etna. The wine is maybe lacking a bit in the purity and intensity the best Etna Rossos show, but on the other hand, exhibits lovely sense of nuance and character. Nice stuff, although I don't see much upside to aging this any further - drink now or within the next handful of years.
(90 points) -
2020 Kollektiv Peternell Grüi - Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum (30.5.2022)
A blend of Grüner Veltliner (75-90%, depending on the source) and Moscato Giallo (10-25%, depending on the source). Vinified in whole bunches, macerated with the skins for 2 days, fermented spontaneously, aged for a year in stainless steel tanks, bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. The lot number is L-KPGVGM20. 10,5% alcohol.
Youthful, hazy lime-green color. Leesy, sharp and somewhat unclean nose with aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some bready and grainy notes and nuances of rancid sesame seeds. I haven't tasted the wine yet, but I can already tell it is heavily mousy! Oh well, here goes nothing: the first sip. The wine is zippy, light-to-medium-bodied and slightly fizzy on the palate with flavors of lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of hay, light bitter notes of apple peel bitterness and an unclean mousy hint of stale bread and Weetabix. Bracing acidity. The finish is dull, unbearably mousy and disgusting with a long, powerful aftertaste of rancid nuts, some saline minerality, a little bit of stale bread, light tart notes of lemony citrus fruits, a hint of Weetabix and a touch of crunchy green apple.
Ye gods what a repulsive beverage this was! Every now and then one comes across a natural wine or a sour ale that is so ridiculously mousy that the mousiness appears not only in the aftertaste, but already in the nose! And this was probably the most extreme example of such wine I've ever tasted! A foul wine. Complete waste of money at approx. 17€. Steer clear.
(50 points) -
2020 Domaine Belluard Gringet Vin de Savoie Eponyme - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie (30.5.2022)
For the 2020 vintage, there is only one Belluard Gringet - this Eponyme. This is due to Dominique Belluard's untimely death in 2021 - the wines from the previous year were not bottled yet, so Belluard's friend Jean-François Ganevat took care of the unfinished wines. Instead of several different bottlings, Ganevat put all 2020 Gringet into this Eponyme bottling. 100% biodynamically farmed Gringet, fermented spontaneously, aged for approximately 12 months in concrete tanks. 12% alcohol.
Pale and slightly hazy yellow color with faint neon-green highlights. At first the nose feels somewhat reductive and even a bit skunky with aromas of flatulent reduction and pickle juice. However, the nose clears slowly, opening to reveal wonderfully fragrant - even slightly tropical - aromas of apricots, some apple jam, a little bit of fresh pineapple, light sappy herbal tones and a fragrant hint of nashi pear. The wine is ripe yet fresh, lively and wonderfully Alpine on the palate with a rather light body and bright flavors of fresh red apple, some mineral notes of wet stones, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light saline nuances, sweet hints of greengage and ripe pear and a faint, tangy touch of acetic sharpness. The high acidity lends great, nervy intensity to the wine. The finish is lively, crisp and crunchy with long, mouth-cleansing flavors of tart green apples and some almost unripe pear, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light stony mineral nuances and a hint of sweeter, more tropical fruit.
A very pure, clean and mineral Gringet that really shows the spry, zippy and very Alpine quality typical of Belluard's white wines. Unlike the other Gringets that I've tasted, which have been just very brisk, lean and just barely ripe, this 2020 vintage seemed to have imbued some sweeter, even slightly tropical character to the fruit department, giving a bit of richness and sense of breadth to this wine, without making it feel any weightier than usual. A very lovely and wonderfully bright white wine and truly a great celebration of Dominique Belluard's life and the exceptional work he did to promote Gringet. Recommended - although I also recommend to aerate the wine for an hour or two, just to let the reduction blow off, if opening the bottle this soon and not with some bottle age. However, seeing how this is the final vintage which Belluard made (at least for the larger part), I encourage to keep any remaining bottles for any special occasions - this will easily last for at least 8-10 years more. Priced according to its quality at 32€.
(91 points) -
2019 Domaine de Belle Vue Muscadet Gaia - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet (30.5.2022)
100% organically farmed Melon de Bourgogne from a vineyard planted in the 1940's. Fermented spontaneously in low temperatures, slowly, and aged in egg-shaped concrete tanks for two years. Bottled in September 2021. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, wonderfully luminous and quite youthful yellow-green color. Intense, ripe yet quite crisp nose of juicy red apple, some honeyed tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light salty notes of ocean breeze, a hint of leesy yeast and a touch of crunchy whitecurrant. The wine feels ripe and quite broad yet wonderfully lively and balanced on the palate with a moderately full body and precise flavors of juicy Golden Delicious apple and ripe white peach, some cantaloupe, light mineral notes of tangy salinity, light leesy tones, a hint of wet rocks and a sweeter touch of apple jam. The rather high acidity keeps the wine effortlessly in balance and gives it good sense of structure. The finish is ripe, juicy and vibrant with bright flavors of sweet and slightly mealy yellow apple, some cantaloupe, a little bit of leesy character, light peachy tones, a hint of honeyed richness and a mineral touch of salinity.
A very nice, tasty and quite broad Muscadet that is recognizable for the style, yet shows a bit more ripeness, breadth and volume than your typical, run-of-the-mill Muscadet. Lovely vibrancy and purity of fruit here, backed up by the classic Muscadet nuances of saline minerality and leesy undertones. Drinking really well now, but shows also potential for improvement in the long run - drink or keep.
(91 points) -
2019 Bencze (Családi Birtok) Autochthon - Hungary, Balaton, Badacsonyi (30.5.2022)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Hárslevelű (49%), Furmint (35%) and Kéknyelű (16%) from vineyards planted between 1999 and 2002 in Szent György-hegy. Half of the Hárslevelű was macerated with the skins for 8 days, the other half was pressed directly with the other white varieties. Aged on the lees for 9 months, bottled in July 2020. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. 12% alcohol.
Hazy - even slightly murky - pale yellow color with faint greenish highlights. Ripe, sweet-toned and somewhat leesy nose with aromas of ripe nectarines, some fresh pineapple tones, a little bit of plantain, light leesy notes of yeast and a sweet hint of apple jam. The wine is dry, crisp and racy on the palate with a light body and clean, zippy flavors of saline mineraltiy, sappy herbal tones, some crunchy notes of Granny Smith apple, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light apricot tones, a hint of fresh pineapple and a faint volatile touch of acetic sharpness. The overall feel is somewhat neutral, yet not thin or lacking in intensity - at least partially thanks to the bracing acidity, which lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is dry, lively and brisk with a quite long, mouth-cleansing aftertaste of saline minerality and tart lemony citrus fruits, some crunchy nuances of green apple, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light leesy nuances and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
A tasty, clean and positively neutral white wine with great focus, intensity and sense of structure. The overall feel is enjoyably fresh and palate-cleansing and the racy acidity lends the wine terrific sense of energy, even if the wine isn't particularly big on the fruit department. It's hard to assess whether the wine will evolve much from here, but it drinks mighty well right now. Priced according to its quality at 7200 HUF (approx. 19€).
(89 points) -
2019 L'Egrappille Vin de France Égrapi(j) - France, Vin de France (30.5.2022)
There was not much information in the bottle (only "wild fermented grape juice" and lot number L19) and the information in the internet is pretty scarce too. To my understanding, L'Egrappille is a naturalist producer in Ardèche, but this white iteration of Égrapi(j) is made with Romorantin grapes sourced from Loire. 12% alcohol.
Youthful, slightly hazy yellow-green color. Very odd and moderately "natural" nose with aromas of pine resin, some weird plastic tones, a little bit of something vaguely thinner-like, light sweet notes of yellow stone fruits, a hint of freshly pressed farmhouse apple juice and a touch of waxy funk. The wine feels ripe, waxy and a bit viscous on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat unconventional flavors of waxy funk, some sweet yellow fruits, a little bit of something thinner-like, light ethery notes of VA and balsamic richness, a hint of that odd plastic character and a touch of honey. The wine is only medium in acidity, which makes the overall feel rather soft and perhaps slightly flabby. The finish is ripe, moderately long and somewhat waxy with slightly wild flavors of juicy yellow apple and freshly pressed apple juice, light cantaloupe tones, a little bit of something resinous, a hint of plastic and a lifted touch of ethery VA.
A juicy, somewhat round and a bit odd naturalist white. The wine isn't excessively natty, funky or anything like that - it just has somewhat deviant aromatics that make it a bit hard to get grips with. The bigger problem here is the rather modest acidity - even when the wine doesn't feel overripe or isn't high in alcohol, the acidity comes a bit too modest for this kind of wine, making it feel a bit lacking in freshness, verve and intensity. Although the wine is perfectly drinkable, the union of slightly blowzy overall structure and a bit peculiar flavors don't make it a winning combo. This is an OK wine and perfectly fine to quench the thirst for academic curiosity, but this is not anything I'd actively look out for.
(84 points) -
2020 Azienda Agricola Serragghia (Gabrio Bini) Zibibbo Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane (30.5.2022)
100% biodynamically farmed Zibibbo (Muscat) from 50-yo vineyards in Pantelleria. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for three weeks with the skins, aged for 9-12 months in Spanish terracotta tinajas buried in earth, bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. 12% alcohol.
Quite hazy - even slightly cloudy - pale yellow color. Very fragrant nose with perfumed notes of roses and wild flowers, some zesty notes of orange essential oil, a little bit of unclean nuttiness suggesting mousiness, light musky Muscat nuances and a stinky hint of sweaty gym gear left for too long in a bag. The wine is full-bodied, concentrated and quite viscous on the palate with quite pronounced floral notes typical of Muscat complemented by dull and unpleasant flavors of rancid nuts and mousy Weetabix character, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of honeyed richness, light lifted nuances of medicinal ether and a hint of ripe grapey fruit. The medium acidity keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but doesn't really lend any freshness to the wine. The finish is horribly mousy with overwhelming THP flavors of sesame seeds and stale bread, some vinegary acetic character, light ethery notes of VA, a little bit of grainy mousiness and a hint of bruised apple.
Oh my god what a wretched wine! If we hadn't had that absolutely disgusting 2020 Kollektiv Peternell Grüi in this tasting, I would've said this is not only one of the mousiest wines I've tasted, but actually the mousiest wine I've tasted. But that Kollektiv Peternell wine had the honor of being even more mousy than this wine, so this wine managed to avoid that dubious distinction. Nevertheless, it's remarkable how normally mousy wines are quite enjoyable and can be even pretty clean until you swallow the wine, when the mousiness suddenly appears - conversely both this and that Kollektiv Peternell wine were so incredibly mousy that you could actually tell from the nose that this wine is going to be mousy and you really didn't have to wait until the aftertaste for the confirmation, as the mousy flavors of THP jumped at you almost as soon as you took the first sip! That's really something. I don't know if this was an off bottle or if this is actually the style the wine is supposed to be, but at the price this wine sells, I'm really not willing to buy any bottles to see what might be the case. At 65-70€ this wine was horrible value and I can't fathom why anyone would be willing to pay the prices they are asking today (90-150€)!
(51 points) -
2012 Colet Colet-Navazos Extra Brut - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (30.5.2022)
100% Xarel-lo sourced from Colet vineyards in Penedès, fermented spontaneously to complete dryness in stainless steel tanks. After bottling the wine is aged for 30 months sur lattes and disgorged in October 2015. The wine lost in disgorgement is replaced with a liqueur d'expedition composed of Palo Cortado and Amontillado Sherries from Equipo Navazos cellars. Although a sparkling wine from Catalonia, this still isn't Cava, as it is bottled under DO Penedès (or, more recently, under DO Clàssic Penedès). 12,5% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose is oddly sweet, but also enjoyably nuanced with aromas of strawberry cream, some nutty notes of slivered almonds, a little bit of yeasty autolysis, light toasty notes of bread, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of sugar cane juice. The wine is dry, crisp and nuanced on the palate with a medium body and flavors of fragrant Mediterranean herbs, some autolytic creamy tones, a little bit of ripe red apple, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, a toasty hint of brioche and a touch of strawberry cotton candy. The overall feel is brisk with high acidity and quite an ample, crisp mousse. The finish is long, dry and refreshing with flavors of creaminess and leesy autolysis, some herby tones, a little bit of sweet and slightly wizened golden apple, light candied marshmallow tones, a toasty hint of French bread and a touch of marzipan.
A nice, crisp and refreshing sparkler with slightly off-piste candied nuances of marshmallows, strawberry cream and cotton candy. I expected the wine show some aldehydic notes of sorrel and salted nuts due to the addition of Palo Cortado and Amontillado, but instead the wine seemed showed entirely different qualities. Nevertheless, the overall feel was still very balanced and thoroughly enjoyable. I'm also pretty sure that the lack of dosage worked really well here, because despite having no residual sugar, the wine never came across as too dry, lean or austere in any way. At just 10 years of age the wine shows surprisingly little aged character and I can imagine the wine is capable of developing further for another decade or so, even if it is drinking really well already now. A nice and somewhat idiosyncratic effort.
(90 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
and could tell the story of what the wines tasted like without it? 
