This post is a spiritual successor to my other tasting report on natural wines, aka. a natural wine tasting, or: How I Ended Up Walking Into a Mouse Trap.
So, +10 years ago I discovered the wines of Léon Barral. They were rustic and funky, but not weird or natty - just very old-school Languedoc reds, often with a healthy dose of bretty funk. Vibrant fruit flavors and quite often rather prominent and assertive tannins. So at some point I started collecting them. I never actually tasted these wines when I bought them - I just purchased one bottle here, two there, then laid them in my cellar and left them to their own devices.
Come spring 2024, I thought I had accumulated a sufficient bunch of Barral wines, plus some other wines from Languedoc-Roussillon, of which I could now throw a tasting. So that’s what I did.
If you aren’t familiar with the Barral wines, a small introduction might be in place. Didier Barral is the 13th generation to farm their family farm in Faugères, Languedoc. He has always made wines in a non-interventionist manner and without SO2, employing spontaneous fermentations, long macerations and old oak barrels. The range covers four wines: the regular Faugères Rouge; two premium cuvées that are the Carignan-driven Jadis and Mourvèdre-heavy Valinière; and a rare white.
Normally I’m a big fan of Mourvèdre (well, ditto for Carignan), but for some reason Barral’s Valinière has never impressed me. It has always felt too big, soft, ripe and clumsy next to the other two reds. That’s why I’ve never bought any.
Well, it turns out that Barral must’ve changed something in his winemaking at some point, because the younger wines we tasted in this tasting were nothing like what I had tasted before. I remembered the wines as stern, rustic and funky with some sense of weight, but definitely not heavy; however, these wines still had quite a bit of tannins, but they were much lighter in weight than they used to be, with a noticeably more natty overall feel with just ridiculously high levels of VA and often a rather unclean feel that felt like the wines were verging on turning mousy. Actually that one Faugères we had was one of the mousiest wines I’ve ever tasted - the mousiness in that wine didn’t emerge in the aftertaste, but actually hit you immediately head-on with the first sip! Absolutely revolting stuff.
So, while we were tasting these wines, fellow berserker @JohanS and a few other winos were demolishing an unruly amount of German wines in an adjacent room. When we were finishing up the tasting with some extra blind bottles, they joined our group bringing a ton of wines they had been tasting along with them, so suddenly my almost-finished Languedoc-Roussillon tasting evolved into something pretty German. So be warned: since this was basically two tastings in one, there’s going to be A LOT of tasting notes here. I don’t blame you if that’s just too much to chew at one go. 
Here’s the tasting proper:
- 2018 Domaine Léon Barral Blanc - France, Vin de France (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Terret Blanc and Terret Gris (total 80%), Roussanne (10%) and Viognier (10%) from vineyards ranging 20 to 90 years old. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 3 days, aged in stainless steel. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added SO2. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, medium-deep amber color. The nose feels waxy, phenolic and somewhat extracted with aromas of bruised quince and apple, some resinous phenolic notes, a little bit of honeycomb, light juicy notes of ripe pear and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels round, phenolic and extracted with a moderately full body and rich, somewhat wild flavors of bruised apple and caramel, some volatile notes of nail polish and medicinal ether, a little bit of resinous phenolics, light stony mineral notes, hints of ripe orange and persimmon and a touch of farmhouse funk. The medium-to-moderately high alcohol feels a bit modest for such a broad, voluminous wine, but there seems to be a tiny bit of tannic grip that adds some firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is quite wild, somewhat waxy and rather mellow with a slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of bruised apple, some resinous phenolic notes, a little bit of honeycomb and beeswax, light lifted notes of sweet nail polish VA, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of leathery funk.
I have to admit, I wasn't particularly enamored by this wine. The overall feel is just too waxy and phenolic and the wine is lacking a bit in acidity, making it come across as rather round, mellow and ponderous. Furthermore, it's quite hard to get grips with the flavors as the overall taste is pretty much dominated by resinous and waxy phenolic notes, and what little you can taste beyond these, is just VA and some funky sauvage nuances. While not a bad wine in any way, this still feels somewhat overpriced for the quality at 27,90€.
(85 points) - 2016 Pierre & Antonin Plô Grand Bâtard Chardonnay Chenin Blanc - France, Vin de France (23.3.2024)
A blend of purchased Chardonnay (planted 1989) and Chenin Blanc (planted 1979) from a Plô Roucarels vineyard near Limoux. 14% alcohol. Bottle #487 of total 2494 bottles.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. Open and quite expressive nose of sweet Fuji apples, some grilled pineapple, light woody notes of oak spice, light stony mineral notes, a salty hint of sea breeze and a touch of ripe pear. The wine feels ripe, balanced and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and layered flavors of ripe red apples and fresh peachy fruit, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of beeswax, light oaky notes of nuttiness and savory wood spice, a reductive hint of flint smoke and at ouch of saline minerality. Bright, structured acidity. The finish is ripe, rich and nuanced with a long aftertaste of ripe yellow apple, some peachy tones, a little bit of nutty wood and creamy oak, light woody notes of sawdust, a hint of stony minerality and a toasty touch of sweet caramel oak.
A rather ripe but also very balanced and sophisticated white that still shows some oak-driven aromatics but is developing in the right direction. I think this wine will reach its apogee some time after its 10th birthday and will keep for much longer. A serious and thoroughly enjoyable Languedoc white. Priced according to its quality at approx. 30€.
(91 points) - 2020 Domaine Gilles Troullier Côtes Catalanes Boréal - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (23.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Syrah. Fermented spontaneously in concrete vats, aged in old, neutral oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, quite deep and rather opaque blackish-red color with a blueish hue. The nose feels ripe, sweetly-fruited and quite dark-toned with aromas of cherries and bilberries, some plummy tones, a little bit of ripe blackberry, light boysenberry notes, a primary hint of jelly candies and a touch of earthy garrigue. The wine feels youthful, juicy and quite airy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite fruit-driven flavors of ripe bilberries and dark plums, some strawberry notes, a little bit of juicy blackberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of garrigue and a touch of salinity. The overall feel is quite supple and a bit mellow with the medium-plus acidity and gentle, ripe tannins. The finish is juicy, dark-toned and slightly lifted with a little bit of tannic grip and a rather long aftertaste of bilberries and boysenberries, some plummy tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light brambly notes of blackberries, a hint of volatile lift and a touch of garrigue.
A nice, fresh and youthful little red - maybe a bit soft and slightly anonymous in character. As the producer is known for clean and delicate natural wines and the wine was clocking in at only 13% ABV, I was sort of expecting the wine to be a classically styled Syrah à la Cornas or St. Joseph, but this definitely isn't Northern Rhône Syrah. Even if the wine isn't particularly high in alcohol, the wine isn't high in acidity, either, and the fruit profile emphasizes more ripeness and sweeter dark fruits rather than dark brambly berries. All in all, this is a nice wine, but nothing that will blow your socks off. I can imagine the wine will benefit from aging and is bound to get at least a little bit better with additional years. Comes across as rather pricey for the quality at 36€. (90 points) - 2019 Domaine de l'Hortus Pic St. Loup Bergerie de l'Hortus - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pic St. Loup (23.3.2024)
A blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre (10%). Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks. Mourvèdre was aged in old oak barrels, the other varieties in stainless steel. 14% alcohol.
Dark, slightly translucent cherry-red color with a pale, brick-red rim. The open nose feels fragrant and quite attractive with red-toned aromas of raspberries and wild strawberries, some ripe blueberry tones, light floral notes of violets, a little bit of licorice, a primary hint of boysenberry jelly and a touch of peppery spice. The wine feels ripe, savory and juicy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and vibrant flavors of blackberries, some gamey tones and meaty umami, a little bit of loose tobacco, light licorice tones, sweeter hints of strawberries and dark plums and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is a bit soft and round with its medium acidity and ripe medium tannins, although the tannins slowly pile up on the gums, making the wine gradually turn slightly more grippy. The finish is darker-toned, somewhat grippy and slightly warm with a rather long aftertaste of ripe dark fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a touch of licorice.
A harmonious, silky and enjoyably fragrant Pic St. Loup red. Maybe the wine could use a little bit more of acidity, but otherwise the overall feel is pretty balanced and sophisticated. It's hard to assess whether the wine will actually benefit from additional aging, but seeing how this is the cuvée meant for earlier drinking, I'm not sure if aging this wine is going to be conductive in making it better, anyway. I guess this is now as good as it is going to get. A solid everyday red, excellent value at 13,25€.
(91 points) - 2018 Clos du Rouge Gorge Côtes Catalanes Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (23.3.2024)
Some sources say this wine is a blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (95%) and Grenache (5%) from very old (70-100 yo) vineyards; other say this is old-vine Cinsault. Go figure. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 10 months in old French oak 500-liter demi-muids and older barrels. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat pale and moderately translucent cherry red color with a slightly evolved brick-red hue. The nose feels somewhat wild and lifted with aromas of brambly raspberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of sharp, acetic VA, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a hint of ripe red plum, a touch of blueberry and a whiff of balsamico. The wine feels dry, savory and slightly lifted on the palate with a medium body and quite crunchy flavors of fresh dark fruits, some gamey tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, light savory notes of earth and meaty umami, a hint of soft black cherry and a touch of acetic VA. The overall feel is firm and balanced with the rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is juicy and ripe yet savory rather than sweetly-fruited with flavors of fresh dark berries, some meaty notes of umami, a little bit of balsamic VA, light gamey tones, a hint of acetic tang and a touch of forest floor.
A balanced and enjoyably fresh but also a bit wild and acetic red that shows good vibrancy and comes across as surprisingly light and delicate for a Roussillon red. With a little bit less VA this would've been a very lovely drop - almost Burgundian, in its own way - but now the sharp, acetic notes distract a little bit from pleasure. Good, but not great. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 30€.
(89 points) - 2019 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Grenache (30%) and Cinsaut (20%), fermented with natural yeasts and aged in concrete vats and stainless steel. 13,5% alcohol.
Slightly murky and rather opaque blackish-red color that doesn't look young nor old. The nose feels sweet, natty and unclean with aromas of fresh dark fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of ripe black raspberry, light acetic notes of VA, a bretty hint of animale and a touch of damp earth. The wine feels fresh, playful and unbelievably mousy on the palate with a medium body and dry, natty flavors of Cheerios and basmati rice, some vinegary notes of VA, a little bit of rancid nuts and a hint of brambly raspberry. The wine is high in acidity with firm medium tannins. The finish is long, dry and rather grippy with an unclean, horribly mousy aftertaste of Cheerios and basmati rice, some vinegary notes of VA, a little bit of rancid nuts and a hint of humus.
Oh dear lord almighty this was horrible. Probably one of the mousiest wines I've ever tasted. Usually mousiness only hits you in the aftertaste, after you've swallowed / spat the wine, but this wine had such high levels of THP that the horribly grainy and nutty flavors hit you almost instantly when you take a sip, making you gag immediately thereafter. What on earth has happened to Barral? I loved these wines ten years ago - they were rustic, characterful and funky, but also thoroughly enjoyable and drinkable with just some bretty notes - no mousiness or excessively high VA. This vile wine was just undrinkable, plain and simple. Complete waste of money at 23,90€. Avoid at all costs.
(52 points) - 2018 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Grenache (30%) and Cinsaut (20%), fermented with natural yeasts and aged in concrete vats and stainless steel. 14% alcohol.
Quite youthful yet not particularly luminous black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned, quite volatile and somewhat rustic with aromas of ripe dark berries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of ripe raspberry, light meaty tones, a hint of blueberry, a funky touch of animale and a whiff of fresh red plum. The wine feels lively, quite acid-driven and very acetic on the palate with a medium body and tangy flavors of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, some vinegary notes of VA, a little bit of ferrous blood, light savory nuances of meaty umami, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The wine is very high in acidity for a Languedoc red clocking in at 14% ABV. Firm, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, tangy and quite acetic with a long, slightly unclean aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light vinegary tones, a hint of earth and a touch of dark plummy fruit. The aftertaste isn't mousy, but the funky, somewhat unclean overall feel suggests that the wine will turn mousy in an hour or two.
A remarkably fresh and acid-driven effort for a Faugères from a warm vintage - however, the excessively high level of VA take a big toll on the drinkability of the wine (and probably contribute quite a lot to the overall acidity). While not a mousy disaster - like the 2019 vintage - this is still way too wild and natty for my preference. What on earth has happened to Barral's style - I loved these wines ten years ago, when they were just rustic and funky. These recent vintages have been more natty than funky, and sometimes just plain undrinkable. Although the wine wasn't particularly expensive at 21,90€, I wouldn't say it really delivered for the price.
(84 points) - 2019 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Jadis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%) and Grenache (20%). Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 3-4 weeks in concrete tanks. Aged for about 2 years in oak barrels (10%) new. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and rather opaque plummy color with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels sweet, dark-toned and rather lifted with aromas of dark plums and black raspberries, some fragrant bretty notes of Campari-like chinotto zest, light acetic and ethery notes of VA, a little bit of floral character, a hint of cranberry marmalade and a touch of mulberry. The wine feels juicy, savory and rather wild on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe dark berries, some lifted notes of VA, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light sharp acetic nuances, savory hints of tobacco and leathery funk and a touch of elderberry. The wine is high in acidity with noticeably firm and grippy tannins. The finish is wild, dark-toned and grippy with a long, lifted aftertaste of ripe cherries and tart cranberries, some acetic notes of vinegary pickle, a little bit of leathery funk, light notes of tobacco, hints of black raspberries and elderberries and a touch of earth.
This wine is obviously a step up from the regular Barral Faugères with its more intense flavor profile and more pronounced tannic structure. However, just like the recent Faugères bottlings, also Jadis seems to be also suffering from too wild and acetic overall character. In the past the wines were just funky, but they weren't excessively natty or too volatile. This 2019, on the other hand, is a bit too high in VA - and I'm quite tolerant of volatile wines. Furthermore, even if the wine wasn't mousy now, the wine did taste so funky and natty that I'm pretty sure it wouldn't take that much more waiting for the wine to turn mousy with air - I wouldn't let this wine breathe for any more than the bare minimum that is necessary. While the wine was quite impressive and pretty enjoyable for such a wild, lifted effort, I think the wine was still a bit too acetic for my preference. Not really worth the price at 33€.
(89 points) - 2017 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Jadis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%) and Grenache (20%). Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 3-4 weeks in concrete tanks. Aged for about 2 years in oak barrels (10%) new. 14,5% alcohol.
Rather opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels quite sweetly-fruited and rather dark-toned with aromas of wizened cherries, some leathery funk, light plummy tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, volatile hints of balsamico and ether, a touch of elderberry juice and a whiff of sharp acetic character. The wine feels dense, firm and savory with a moderately full body and intense flavors of tobacco and ripe black raspberry, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of forest floor, light balsamic notes of VA, hints of black cherries and elderberries and a touch of leathery funk. The wine comes across as rather muscular yet not aggressive with its rather high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and grippy with a dark-toned aftertaste of black cherries and strawberries, some bretty notes of leather saddle and phenolic spice, a little bit of balsamic VA, light plummy tones, crunchy hints of black raspberries and elderberries and a touch of tobacco.
A firm, structured and characterful Faugères that is definitely quite funky but not natty - unlike many other recent Barral vintages. The level of VA feels a little bit elevated, but it is nothing alarming and it doesn't distract from pleasure. The wine is definitely quite bretty and it might bother some people who like their wines clean as a whistle - but not me. All in all, this is a fine vintage of Jadis and very much how I remembered Barral wines were in the past. I wish the other vintages and labels were like this, too. Solid value at 32,03€.
(92 points) - 2016 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Jadis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%) and Grenache (20%). Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 3-4 weeks in concrete tanks. Aged for about 2 years in oak barrels (10%) new. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite opaque and somewhat evolved blackish-red color with a faint maroon hue. The nose feels somewhat wild and rather lifted with aromas of wizened black cherries and sharp, acetic notes of VA, some plummy tones, a little bit of funky animale character, light sweeter notes of nail polish, a smoky hint of phenolic spice and a touch of mulberry. The wine feels ripe, wild and slightly unclean on the palate with a full body and intense, savory flavors of leathery funk and tobacco, some plummy notes of dark fruits, a little bit of balsamic and ethery VA, light sharp notes of tangy acetic character, a hint of forest floor and a touch of mulberry. The high alcohol lends some warmth to the palate. Although the acidity feels rather high, the structure still relies on the ample, assertive and noticeably grippy tannins. The finish is savory, somewhat warm and very tannic with a long, slightly dull aftertaste of dark fruits, some balsamic VA, a little bit of vinegary sharpness, light bretty notes of barnyard, a hint of leathery funk and a sanguine touch of iron. After a little while the aftertaste starts to develop into an even dirtier direction and I wouldn't be surprised if the wine became mousy after some aeration.
The 2017 Jadis was funky, but not noticeably volatile or natty, so I hoped that the older Jadis wines were stylistically similar, too. Well, it seems my hopes were unfounded, since this 2016 vintage was once again marred by excessively high levels of VA and such a big blast of other natty elements that I fear the wine turns readily into a mouse bomb with some air. The wine was both more drinkable and more enjoyable than the 2018 Barral Faugères, but less so than the 2019 Jadis. I do like tannic wines, but here the unyielding tannic wall seemed out of proportion compared to the fruit and the body; the natty elements were a bit more pronounced than in the 2019 vintage; and even though all the Jadis wines we tasted in this Barral tasting were clocking in at 14 to 14,5% ABV, the high alcohol showed through only in this vintage. This wine wasn't a disaster, but it didn't win me over, either. Feels somewhat pricey for the quality at 29,90€.
(85 points) - 2015 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Jadis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%) and Grenache (20%). Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 3-4 weeks in concrete tanks. Aged for about 2 years in oak barrels (10%) new. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, slightly translucent dark cherry-red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels quite wild and rather acetic with aromas of ripe raspberries, some zesty Campari notes of chinotto, a little bit of elderberry juice, light bretty notes of phenolic spice, a floral hint of violets and a touch of blueberry. The wine feels rather ripe and quite wild on the palate with a moderately full body and flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of fresh blueberry, light floral notes of violets, a sweet hint of sunny dark fruit and a touch of salinity. The wine retains quite a bit of structure with its moderately high acidity and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, quite grippy and rather wild with a lifted aftertaste of vinegary VA, some tart notes of cranberries and lingonberries, a little bit of tangy salinity, light blueberry notes, bretty hints of Campari and animale character and a touch of balsamico. There's a somewhat murky, unclean overtone suggesting that the wine will turn mousy with some air.
This vintage was quite similar to the 2016 - both were pretty impressively structured, but marred by excessive VA and a natty character that heavily suggests that the wines are going to turn mousy with exposure to oxygen. I think that this wine was slightly better than the 2016, that had even a bit higher level of VA and had tannins that started to get excessively tough and aggressive. Although a marginally better wine, this 2015 vintage still didn't manage to leave a lasting impression. Feels very overpriced for the quality at 35€.
(86 points) - 2004 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan (50%), Grenache (30%) and Cinsaut (20%), fermented with natural yeasts and aged in concrete vats and stainless steel. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat translucent and quite evolved dried-blood color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels evolved, sweet-toned yet savory and very attractive with complex aromas of wizened red fruits and ripe cherries, some dried dark fruits, a little bit of tobacco, light evolved notes of meat stew, a hint of raisiny fruit and a touch of wilted flowers. The wine feels evolved, silky and savory on the palate with a moderately full body and complex flavors of ripe dark berries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of tobacco and leathery funk, light sweet notes of raisins and juicy black cherries, tertiary hints of meat stew and garrigue and a touch garrigue. The overall feel is very firm and balanced with the high acidity and still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is ripe, textural and savory with a long, layered aftertaste of tobacco and leathery funk, some wizened black cherries, light raisiny tones, a little bit of gamey meat, a hint of garrigue and a touch of ripe red-toned fruit.
After a bunch of younger Barral wines, which were noticeably natty with excessively high levels of VA - some also getting undrinkable with mousiness - this was a welcome return to form! I had remembered Barral's wines as firm and structure-driven yet balanced wines with pleasant, not overdone funky overtones - not something super-wild and natty with almost vinegar-levels of VA and unclean funky qualities. Going through these younger Barral wines I started to question myself whether I had just remembered wrong, but when we tasted this wine, all my doubts just vanished. This wine was exactly how I remembered Barral's wines were! I wonder what on earth has happened with the producer - why the wines are so wild, natty and unpleasant when they were so wonderful some 10+ years ago? This wine was in a great shape, now on its plateau of maturity. It is starting to show some tertiary qualities and I don't expect the wine to evolve any further from here - better to drink it sooner rather than later. This was an excellent purchase at 27€.
(93 points) - 2000 Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (23.3.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan from 125-yo vineyards (35%), Syrah from 20-yo vineyards (30%), Grenache from 55-yo vineyards (25%) and Mourvèdre from 25-yo vineyards (10%). All fruit fully destemmed, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 2-4 weeks. Aged in oak barriques for 24 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite deep, rather evolved and moderately translucent maroon color with a pale brick-red rim. The nose feels evolved and sweet-toned yet quite savory with attractive aromas of wizened figs and raisiny dark fruits, some smoky tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light nuanced of garrigue, a hint of ripe strawberry, a touch of balsamic VA and a whiff of pipe tobacco. The wine feels ripe, silky and evolved on the palate with a full body and savory flavors of ripe figs and leathery funk, some tobacco, light dried-fruit notes of dark raisiny fruit and dried figs, a little bit of balsamic VA, sweet hints of ripe strawberries and dark plums and a touch of garrigue. The wine retains great sense of structure with its rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is complex, textural and moderately grippy with a long, slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of dried dates and raisiny dark fruit, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of garrigue, light balsamic notes of VA, hints of ripe red plums and juicy strawberries and a smoky touch of phenolic spice.
A beautifully evolved, harmonious and complex Roussillon red with good sense of structure, depth and intensity. There's a little bit of funk that hints at the non-interventionist background of the wine, but the overall feel is pretty clean and vibrant - not natty in any way. As the wine is starting to get pretty tertiary, it is obvious that it is not going to evolve any further from here, but most likely the wine isn't going to fall apart anytime soon. Nevertheless, I recommend drinking the wine sooner rather than later, because you want to catch this wine while it is still fully alive. Open now or within the next handful of years. Great stuff, terrific value at 30€.
(94 points)
Then all the blinds I managed to taste this evening (there were probably even more than these):
- 1998 Château Haut-Batailley - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (23.3.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and Merlot (1/3). Aged in French oak barriques (approx. 50% new) for 18 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Evolved, deep and slightly translucent blackish-red color with a slightly maroon hue. The nose feels somewhat evolved, slightly rustic and a bit funky with a classic Bordeaux bouquet of wizened blackcurrants and leathery funk, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of horse stable aroma, light plummy nuances, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of mushroomy earth. The wine feels evolved, silky and savory on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of leathery funk , game and meaty umami, some wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of tobacco, light sweet notes of ripe dark plums, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of licorice root. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the supple and rather resolved medium tannins. The finish is long, savory and gently grippy with a complex, dark-toned aftertaste of wizened dark fruits and dried blackcurrants, some tobacco, a little bit of game, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of leafy forest floor.
A beautiful, somewhat rustic and wonderfully evolved Pauillac that is now on its plateau of maturity. Most likely the wine will keep for years, but it won't evolve any further, so there's no real need to age the wine any further. There's some tertiary complexity which will only increase with additional aging, so you might want to drink the wine while it still retains some of that fruity complexity. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2020 Guillaume Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Côteau des Ducs - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron (23.3.2024)
The debut vintage of this label. 100% Roussanne, fermented and aged in concrete egg-shaped tanks and amphorae. Tasted blind.
Intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe and sweet-toned with aromas of cantaloupe and beeswax, some floral notes of chamomile, a little bit of ripe yellow apple, light honeyed tones, herby hints reminiscent of noble hops, a touch of savory spice and a primary whiff of pear. The wine feels, ripe, broad and quite substantial but also pretty balanced on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple and cantaloupe, some waxy tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light herby notes reminiscent of hoppy pilsner, a spicy hint of extracted character and a touch of stony minerality. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance, but the wine still feels a bit ponderous and the alcohol shows a little bit through as well. The rich finish is broad, juicy and somewhat warm with a long, slightly extracted aftertaste of waxy richness, some cantaloupe, light honeyed tones, a little bit of hoppy herbal character, a hint of apple sauce and a touch of something plastic-y.
A tasty and substantial Chignin-Bergeron that feels maybe a tiny bit too big and ponderous - even when the wine isn't too heavy nor clumsy in any way. It might be in part due to the young age - the wine is still very youthful and borderline primary, which makes it so exuberant and fruit-forward. Maybe a little bit of additional aging might help in toning down the rich, fruit-driven character a bit? At least the wine seems to show good sense of aging potential. A big but also promising wine.
(89 points) - 2015 La Visciola Cesanese del Piglio Priore Vignali - Italy, Latium, Cesanese del Piglio (23.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Cesanese from the +60 yo Vignali cru. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for a year in concrete tanks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved cherry-red color with a maroon hue and a clear, colorless rim. The nose feels fragrant, rustic and funky with a rather sauvage nose of tobacco and dried flowers, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of zesty Campari character, light animale tones, a hint of leathery funk, a touch of smoky phenolic character and a whiff of ripe redcurrant. The wine feels dry, funky and rustic on the palate with a rather light body and savory flavors of tobacco and earth, some leathery funk, a little bit of crunchy redcurrants and cranberries, light bretty notes of barnyard, a hint of floral lift and a sweeter touch of ripe figs. Fresh and lively acidity, gently grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, funky and gently grippy with a somewhat wild aftertaste of leathery funk and barnyard, some sweeter notes of ripe figs, a little bit of perfumed floral character, light tart notes of lingonberries and cranberries, a smoky hint of phenolic spice and a touch of ripe redcurrants.
A rather noticeably bretty yet still wonderfully fresh, crunchy and elegant Lazio red. This wine might be too wild and funky for people who like their wines squeaky clean, but to me, this was a thoroughly enjoyable, lively and characterful red. I've always thought that La Visciola is making some of the finest wines in Lazio and this wine does nothing but strengthens this view. I'm not sure how much this wine will evolve from here, as it is starting to show some developed signs, but most likely it will keep just fine for years more. Terrific stuff, highly recommended. Good value at 27€.
(92 points) - 2018 Familia Nin-Ortiz Priorat Planetes de Nin Garnatxes en Amfora - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (23.3.2024)
A blend of Garnacha and Garnacha Peluda from the younger vines at Finca Les Planetes, located in Priorat. Fully destemmed, fermented spontaneously and aged in 700-to-1000-liter Spanish tinajas. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, deep and rather opaque black cherry color with a pale rim. The nose feels ripe, quite sweetly-fruited and rather dark-toned with fragrant aromas of boysenberries and elderflowers, some ripe black cherry, light balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of juicy strawberry, brooding hints of dark plums and blackcurrants and a touch of meaty character. The wine feels savory, chewy and ripe yet not sweet-toned on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of dark plums and black cherries, some tobacco, a little bit of balsamic VA, light blackcurrant nuances, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of earthiness. The overall feel is pretty stern and tightly-knit with the high acidity and firm, grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite tannic with an intense, dark-toned aftertaste of dark plummy fruit and tobacco, some strawberry, a little bit of balsamic VA, light gamey notes of meaty character, a hint of juicy black cherry and a touch of leathery funk.
A very intensely-flavored, structure-driven and thoroughly tasty effort that is remarkably fresh and serious for a Priorat AND for a Grenache. Even if the wine shows the solar ripeness and tactile presence typical of the region, the wine still doesn't come across as big and ponderous as many of its peers. Instead the wine feels surprisingly well-proportioned; ripe but not too ripe; and intensely fruity yet not sweet-toned. Furthermore - usually many of the best Priorat wines tend to have a not-insignificant amount of Carignan in the blend, whereas this wine is nothing but Garnacha (and Garnacha Peluda)! This wine is really an efficient reminder that the Spanish Garnacha is a whole different beast if compared to the soft and fruity Grenache of Southern Rhône. All in all, this is a very impressive effort and definitely one of the best Priorat wines I've had in a while. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve and improve for many more years. An excellent purchase at approx. 27€.
(93 points) - 2022 Weingut Schnaitmann Trollinger Alte Reben - Germany, Württemberg (23.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Trollinger from 30-45 yo vineyards. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 14 days with the skins. Aged in old 300-liter oak barrels for approximately 8 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 11% alcohol, 1,2 g/l residual sugar and 4,9 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Pale, slightly hazy and quite translucent raspberry-red color. The nose feels youthful and quite reductive with aromas of gunpowder smoke and struck match, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light herby notes of noble hops and a hint of stony minerality. The wine feels dry, fresh and quite linear on the palate with a light body and slightly funky flavors of raspberries and redcurrants, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of smoky reduction, light herby notes of pilsner-like noble hops, funky hints of barnyard and burnt hair and a touch of animale character and a touch of tart lingonberry. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity with gentle tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is lively, dry and slightly grippy with a crunchy aftertaste of redcurrants and tart lingonberries, some smoky reductive notes, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light funky animale tones, a hint of tobacco and a touch of herby character.
A pleasant and relatively serious effort for a Trollinger. Although the wine is a bit linear and somewhat modest in acidity, it is still more complex with a higher level acidity than your typical Trollinger. The funk also adds to the complexity as well, not really taking any toll to the fruit. However, the wine is quite reductive - even rather shut down at first - so it does need quite a bit of air and even then doesn't really clear up completely. I'd probably leave the wine in a cellar for some additional years, just in the hopes that it would blow off its reduction. Nice stuff in any case.
(88 points) - 2020 Grosjean Petite Arvine Valle d'Aosta Vigne Rovettaz - Italy, Valle d'Aosta (23.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Petite Arvine from Vigne Rovettaz cru, planted at the altitude of 550 m above sea level. Aged in stainless steel tanks (70%) and oak barrels (30%) for 8 months. Lot number L2109, so perhaps the wine is bottled in September 2021? 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale yellow-green color. The nose feels immediately very Italian, so I say it out loud immediately. Aromas of sweet mirabelle plums and some peachy tones, a little bit of quince, light honeydew melon nuances, a youthful hint of pear juice and a touch of sweet herby character. The wine feels ripe and somewhat voluminous but also balanced on the palate with a full body and vibrant flavors of golden apples and honeydew melon, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of youthful pear, light crunchy quince tones, a hint of herby spice and a mineral touch of wet rocks. Despite the ripeness and sense of breadth, the wine is high in acidity, which lends it good sense of freshness and structure. The finish is fresh and lively with a moderately long aftertaste of ripe cantaloupe and sweet Golden Delicious apple, some mirabelle tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of herby spice and a touch of waxy richness.
A ripe and relatively big but also enjoyably balanced Alto Adige white. It feels like the style of this wine has changed quite considerably - I remember the wine was made in a lighter and crunchier style 5-10 years ago, which is why I was surprised how voluminous the wine was now. The overall style had also a noticeably Italian feel to it, so I said right off the bat that the wine must be an Italian white, but wasn't really sure what or where. My only guess before the bottle was revealed was Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige. Good stuff, all in all. Seeing how youthful the wine was, I can imagine this will continue to age nicely over at least a handful of years. Priced according to its quality at 23€.
(91 points) - 2017 Ante Sladić Vino Lasina Opol - Croatia, Dalmatia, Dalmatinska Zagora, Skradin (23.3.2024)
A deep style of rosé called "Opol", made with 100% Lasina, macerated with the skins during fermentation for 24 hours. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, pale and moderately evolved neon orange color. The nose feels evolved, characterful and noticeably smoky with aromas of some phenolic spice, light appley tones and a hint of pumpkin. The wine feels dry, somewhat smoky and quite neutral on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of citrus fruits, some appey tones, a little bit of gunpowder smoke and a hint of stony minerality. High in acidity. The finish is short, quite neutral and moderately smoky with a rather underwhelming aftertaste of tobacco and smoke, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of spicy red apple and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
Although Opol rosés tend to be quite big and burly, it feels like this wine wasn't built to age. It has lost most of its fruit and retains a mere shell of what it must've been. The fruit department has faded away and what remains is just something smoky and indistinct. There's nothing particularly tertiary or oxidative here - but nothing of interest, either. This is not a bad wine per se - just a rosé that is older than it was meant to be.
(79 points) - 2022 Pascal Robin Chablis Cuvée l'Or aux Fées - France, Burgundy, Chablis (23.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Chardonnay from two parcels near the town of Chablis. Fermented spontaneously. Aged in stainless steel tanks (80%) and oak barrels (20%) for a minimum of 12 months. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale and rather neutral yellow color with a youthful lime-green hue. The nose feels somewhat ripe and a bit sweet-toned with aromas of juicy yellow apples, some peachy tones, a little bit of waxy richness, light salty oceanic nuances, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of zesty citrus fruit. The wine is clean, refreshing and a bit neutral on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of zesty citrus fruits, some ripe Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of juicy white peach, light mineral notes of chalk dust and a hint of oceanic salinity. Structured, brisk acidity. The finish is clean, refreshing and a bit neutral with a moderately long aftertaste of crunchy white fruits, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of oceanic salinity, light lemony citrus fruit nuances and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
A nice, refreshing and sophisticated Chablis that comes across as a traditional, mineral and acid-driven white - not a ripe, impactful and tropical wine that the region has churned out for some time now. This is not a wine that will wow people in blind tastings; this is a harmonious food wine that will go with any lighter fare that calls for mineral, acid-driven whites. The wine drinks wonderfully now, but I can see it evolving and improving at least a little bit for a number of years more. Nice stuff.
(90 points) - 2021 Makarounas Promara Amphora - Cyprus, Paphos (23.3.2024)
100% Promara from an ungrafted vineyard planted approximately 10 years ago in Paphos at the elevation of 400-450 m above sea level. Fermented spontaneously, aged in amphorae. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and sweet-toned with aromas of beeswax and honeydew melon, some zesty citrus fruits, light floral notes of apple blossom, a little bit of sweet herbal character of thyme or Thai basil and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels lively yet ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and surprisingly substantial on the palate without coming across as particularly heavy or noticeably full-bodied. There are vibrant flavors of fresh cantaloupe, some lemongrass, a little bit of stony minerality, light floral notes of apple blossom, a hint of sponti funk and a touch of beeswax. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness, structure and energy to the wine. The finish is dry, vibrant and quite acid-driven with a rather long aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some lemongrass, a little bit of stony minerality and chalk dust, light beeswaxy tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of something vaguely funky.
A nice, serious and tasty Cypriot wine with good sense of depth and character. It is something of a conundrum: the wine feels quite ripe and substantial, yet it is fresh, lively and light on its feet; it isn't rich, intense or exuberant, yet it isn't lacking in fruit or depth of flavor. Fun and thoroughly enjoyable stuff. I have no idea how this wine will age, but it is drinking really well right now and isn't screaming for any additional age. Recommended.
(91 points) - 2021 Textura Wines Dão Textura da Estrela - Portugal, Beiras, Dão (23.3.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Encruzado (60%), Bical (35%) and Cerceal Branco (15%) from 25 to 60 yo estate vineyards (average age 40 yo) grown on granitic soils at the altitude of 500 m asl in Vila Nova de Tazem. All fruit destemmed, crushed and gently pressed. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 11 months in used 500-liter demi-muids and a 2500-liter tonel. Bottled in November 2022. 12,5% alcohol, 2,1 g/l residual sugar, 5,36 g/l acidity, 0,56 g/l VA, pH 3,40 and 86 mg/l total SO2. Total production 10,800 bottles and 206 magnums.
Quite deep and intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat ripe and slightly Burgundian with aromas of fresh yellow fruits, some smoky reductive tones, a little bit of crunchy yellow apple, light herby nuances, a hint of cantaloupe, a touch of creamy oak and a whiff of plantain. The wine feels clean, balanced and moderately textural on the palate with a medium body and quite intense, slightly sweet-toned flavors of cantaloupe and plantain, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light sweet notes of ripe greengage, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of chopped aromatic herbs. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine harmonious, lending it good sense of freshness. The finish is long, moderately mineral and slightly spicy with a rather intense aftertaste of cantaloupe, some spicy red apple, light saline mineral tones, a little bit of greengage, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of wet rock minerals.
A pleasant and tasty Portuguese white with a somewhat Burgundian feel to it. Not that big on character; this is more about sense of balance and harmony. Maybe the overall feel is a bit sweet-toned and somewhat round for my preference, but as the wine is still very young, I wouldn't be surprised if the wine dropped a little bit of that baby fat and emerged as a bit lighter and drier after some years in a cellar. Enjoyable stuff, priced according to its quality at 21€.
(89 points) - 2021 von Winning Haardter Herrenletten Chardonnay - Germany, Pfalz (23.3.2024)
100% Chardonnay from Haardter Herrenletten. Fermented and aged in oak barriques. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, quite pale and very slightly hazy lime-green color. The nose feels powerful and quite a crowdpleaser with the heavily oak-driven aromas of toasty smoke and vanilla ice cream, some sweet creamy tones, a little bit of lemon rind, light cantaloupe tones, a hint of toasted spices, a touch of butterscotch and a whiff of caramel. Lots of everything here, but that's quite a bit too much for me. The wine feels concentrated, very toasty and somewhat viscous on the palate with a full body and rather sweet-toned flavors of caramel and toffee apple, some vanilla, light saline mineral tones, a little bit of woody oak spice, sweet hints of apricot and pineapple and a sweet touch of toasty oak. The acidity feels quite brisk and zippy, lending the wine good sense of freshness and structure despite its rather unctuous, weighty overall feel. The finish is long, thick and oaky with a rather sweet-toned aftertaste of butterscotch and salt caramel, some vanilla, light pineapple tones, a little bit of apple jam, smoky hints of toasted oak and a touch of nectarine.
Ugh, this was a pretty horrible effort. I've enjoyed von Winning's oaked Rieslings because the oak influence is often quite balanced in them. Here, on the other hand, the oak use feels way over-the-top, making the wine drink more like toffee juice flavored with vanilla and other baking spices. I have to admit that the wine is surprisingly fresh and high in acidity, making the overall feel pretty balanced despite the big body and rather sweet-toned overall taste, but that's about the only thing that is in balance here. I found the wine rather unenjoyable. Overpriced at approx. 50€.
(81 points) - 2020 Dr. Heger Frühburgunder Im Holzfass Gereift Trocken - Germany, Baden (23.3.2024)
100% Frühburgunder. Aged in oak barrels. Bottle #421 of total 1100 bottles. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, translucent and moderately deep ruby-red color with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels dark-toned and a bit linear with aromas of cherries and black raspberries, some spicy tones, a little bit of stony minerality and a hint of smoke. The wine feels rather ripe and a bit angular on the palate with some sense of Pinosity, a medium body and quite dry flavors of tart red plums, some brambly black raspberries, light mineral notes of sun-baked rocks, a little bit of licorice root, a hint of old wood and a touch of salt-cured beef. The combination of moderately high acidity and relatively grippy medium-plus tannins make the wine feel pretty firm and structured. The finish is juicy, moderately grippy and a bit warm with a rather long aftertaste of dark berries and tart red plums, some earth, light woody tones, a little bit of salinity, a hint of ripe Bing cherry and a touch of licorice root.
An enjoyably firm and structured but not particularly Burgundian Burgunder - even though the flavors do exhibit some sense of Pinosity. This feels more like a bit simple and somewhat rustic wine than a serious grand vin. I enjoyed the structure here, but I felt the wine came across as rather straightforward, lacking slightly in depth and character. Enjoyable stuff all the same. Maybe the wine will pick up some additional complexity with further aging?
(88 points) - 2022 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb "Onkel Peter" #4 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from old ungrafted wines in the Zuckerberg site located in Niedermenninger Herrenberg; in the AP number printed in the front label, number 4 is bolded, followed by the fuder name, Onkel Peter - named after uncle Peter from whom the parcel was inherited. The whole bunches are gently pressed and the must is fermented spontaneously in one old fuder to off-dry levels of residual sugar, after which the fermentation is halted. 8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite neutral and rather colorless yellow-green color with faint youthful, lime-green highlights. The somewhat sweetish nose feels rather understated yet still quite seductive with fine-tuned aromas of lemon marmalade, some ripe appley notes, light floral nuances of apple blossom and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels off-dry or barely medium-sweet, airy and very balanced on the palate with a medium body and delicate, fine-tuned and quite crystalline flavors of lemon marmalade, stony minerality and understated salinity, some sweeter apple jam tones, a little bit of crunchy quince, light green yet sweet notes of Thai basil, a hint of beeswax and a touch of honeydew melon. The overall feel is high in acidity, but it only translates to great freshness and energy as the sweetness from the residual sugar and the sharpness from the acidity seemingly cancel each other out. The finish is clean, brisk and zippy with a relatively light yet quite long aftertaste of lemon marmalade and apple jam, some crunchy notes of quince, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, light floral orange blossom nuances, a hint of honeycomb and a touch of tangy salinity.
A harmonious, tasty and classically styled feinherb Kabinett that is still super youthful - and thus quite closed. Although these Falkenstein wines tend to be quite expressive right from the start, this wine seemed pretty shut down immediately after opening. However, it did start to open up nicely quite soon afterwards - even if it didn't open up fully during the evening. Based on that observation, this wine does seem to benefit from a good amount of aeration, if opened up this young. I'd let the wine age a few additional years, just to let it unwind some more, but admittedly the wine is eminently lovely already now - even if it is not firing on all cylinders yet!
(92 points) - 2006 Weingut Königshof Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mittelrhein (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from Bopparder Hamm. 11% alcohol. AP number -11 07. Tasted blind.
Luminous, medium-deep neon-yellow color. The sweet, seductive nose is instantly recognizable as a Riesling with its concentrated aromas of honey, some lemon marmalade, light evolved creamy tones, a little bit of honeysuckle, a hint of pear jam and a touch of stony minerality. The wine feels clean, sweet and harmonious on the palate with a full body and intense, rich flavors of acacia honey and orange marmalade, some sharp notes of key lime, a little bit of overripe apricot, light stony mineral notes, a developed hint of cooked cream and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity lends great sense of focus and freshness to the wine, but the mouthfeel is more silky and slightly viscous than sharp or incisive. The finish is rich and juicy with a long, complex aftertaste of honey and lime marmalade, some peachy tones, a little bit of lemon juice, light stony mineral notes, a hint of overripe apricot and a touch of salinity.
An intensely flavored, harmonious and quite concentrated treat. The wine is showing some evolved signs, but the overall feel is still pretty youthful and most likely the wine will continue to slowly evolve and improve for years more. Pretty delicious stuff. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2014 Stein St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer Riesling "Grenzgänger" *** trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer. The front label says only "St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer Riesling *** trocken", whereas the "Grenzgänger" part is in the back label. Fermented spontaneously. Aged in an ancient (80 yo) 1000-liter fuder for 22 months. Bottled unfiltered. 12% alcohol. AP number -22 16. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, sweetish and somewhat evolved with layered aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some aged creamy tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light green notes of birch leaves and green almonds, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of browned butter. The wine feels very crisp, lean and noticeably austere on the palate with a light-to-medium body and incisive, dry flavors of almost unripe yellow apple, some pithy notes of grapefruit, light evolved notes of melted butter, a little bit of stony minerality, green hints of cut grass and green almonds and a faint, oxidative touch of nuttiness. The bracing acidity makes the wine feel very sharp, tart and tightly-knit. The finish is crisp, lean and lively with a long, tart aftertaste of incisive steely minerality, some evolved creamy tones, a little bit of sharp Granny Smith apple, light pithy notes of pomelo, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of green almond.
A very lean, brisk and quite austere Riesling. Several people thought the wine was both noticeably under-ripe and somewhat faulty with its green tones, but I found the wine more enjoyable - although I have to admit that my previous assessments seem to have been proven wrong. 6½ years ago I expected the wine to resolve and unwind a little with age, but now, approaching its 10th birthday, the wine seems to have only lost some of its fruit and those somewhat atypical green nuances have only gained prominence. The wine hasn't really unwound with age, but instead become even more austere and less approachable. I guess the wine just didn't evolve in the direction I expected (or hoped) it would, and it probably won't get any better with additional aging. (88 points) - 2012 Stein St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer Riesling Spätlese Urgestein Heinrich - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer. The front label says only "St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer Riesling - Spätlese" with a subtle "Heinrich" text in the background, whereas the "Urgestein Heinrich" part is in the back label. This is a special "natural wine" version of St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer. Fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, aged for 18 months in the lees in a neutral barrique, racked off the lees and aged for another 3 months and then bottled unfiltered without the addition of sulfites. 13% alcohol, 9-10 g/l residual sugar, 7,9 g/l acidity. AP number -15 15. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep amber-orange color. The nose feels old and somewhat oxidative with quite tertiary and not that attractive aromas of cooked cream and browned butter, some roasted nuts, a little bit of tinned peach, light panna cotta nuances, a hint of peanut butter and an aldehydic touch of green apple slices. The wine feels crisp, evolved and dull on the palate with a medium body and unpleasant flavors of crushed peanuts and rancid butter, some bruised apple tones, light grainy notes of Corn Flakes, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of Granny Smith apple. The bracing acidity seems completely out of proportion with the body and what little fruit there is left in the wine. The finish is dry, dull and bitter with a long aftertaste of peanuts, some pomelo, light grainy notes of Corn Flakes, a little bit of rancid butter and a hint of steely minerality.
This wine has gone in a very unpleasant direction - I tasted the wine 5½ years ago and back then I thought this seemed like somebody had tried to make an oxidative Jura-style wine from Riesling. Well, now the wine is not just oxidative, but completely oxidized. There is practically nothing enjoyable here and the wine is totally in pieces. Avoid.
(NR/flawed) - 2017 Weingut Hermann Ludes Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from Thörnicher Ritsch. 9,5% alcohol. AP number -3 18. Tasted blind.
Youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful, rather sweet and somewhat reductive with slightly understated aromas of lemon marmalade, some skunky notes of reductive funk, a little bit of candied ginger and a mineral hint of wet rocks. the wine feels crisp, lean and a bit austere on the palate with a medium body and off-dry flavors of lemon juice, some ginger, light mineral notes of incisive steely character and chalk dust, a little bit of apple peel bitterness and a hint of lime marmalade. The racy acidity lends tremendous sense of precision, structure and electric energy to the wine. The finish is quite dry and rather austere with a lean, medium-long aftertaste of steely minerality, some apple peel bitterness, light tart key lime tones, a little bit of chalk dust and a hint of candied ginger.
An enjoyably crisp but maybe even a bit too austere off-dry Kabinett that feels still quite youthful and rather underwhelming, despite its 6½ years of age. It is entirely possible that the wine is just closed down due to its reductive nature and it will open up with some air - or a handful of years more in a cellar - but I wonder if there is enough substance in the wine for it to evolve and improve from here? It is possible that the wine is just too austere - it can keep just fine for a good number of years, but it's probably that the wine will just fade away instead of evolving further from here. I enjoyed the wine for its brisk, mineral nature, but the jury is still out whether the can improve with further aging or not.
(89 points) - 2021 Weingut Mehling Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Pfalz (23.3.2024)
9% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, pale lime-green color. The nose feels sweet and quite recognizable for a young Riesling with its aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some perfumed notes of apple blossom and other white flowers, light mineral notes of gun steel, a hint of nectarine and a primary touch of grapey fruit. The wine feels firm, vibrant and balanced on the palate with a relatively light body and intense, medium-sweet flavors of ripe red apples, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of tangerine, light grapey tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of fresh peach. The fresh, zippy acidity lends good sense of intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is clean, juicy and refreshing with a long, medium-dry aftertaste of fresh red apples, some tangerine, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of sweet grapey fruit, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of fresh peach.
A youthful, balanced and harmonious Kabinett Riesling with good sense of freshness and vibrancy. Although the wine still retains a little bit of that grapey primary character, the wine is thoroughly enjoyable already now and doesn't call for additional aging. However, I'm quite sure the wine will evolve and improve with additional aging. Good stuff, drink now or keep.
(90 points) - 2012 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
100% Riesling from 30-50 yo vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg. Fermented spontaneously. 8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately evolved, quite pale honey-yellow color. The nose feels sweetish and slightly evolved with rich, vibrant aromas of acacia honey, some apricot, light appley notes, a little bit of orange marmalade, a developed hint of creamy custard character, a touch of beeswax and a faint green whiff of birch leaves. The wine feels clean, fresh and harmonious on the palate with a light-to-medium body and quite ripe yet slightly understated medium-sweet flavors of ripe red apple, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light creamy custard tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of honeycomb. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and balance to the palate. The medium-sweet finish is clean and vibrant but also a bit short with a nuanced aftertaste of ripe Granny Smith apple, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light evolved notes of creamy custard character and a hint of tangerine.
A nice and harmonious Kabinett that has a wonderful nose, but somehow feels a bit lacking on the palate. For some reason the flavor intensity doesn't match the heady exuberance of the nose, making the wine feel pleasant, but ultimately a bit thin and underwhelming - most of the richness comes from the residual sugar, not from the fruit. I was a bit surprised when the bottle was revealed - I was expecting something more expressive from AJ Adam. This was a nice wine, but nothing immediately impressive or memorable - just a pleasant little everyday Kabi with nice additional complexity from the creamy tertiary notes.
(89 points) - 2020 Weingut Kirsten Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
7,5% alcohol. AP number -03 21. Tasted blind.
Pale, almost colorless lemon-yellow appearance with faint, youthful greenish highlights. The nose feels quite closed and rather reductive with skunky notes of flatulent reduction, some ripe white peach notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary notes of sweet grapey fruit and a floral hint of orange blossom. The wine feels balanced and quite tasty but also rather linear on the palate with a medium body and medium-sweet flavors of white peach, some lemon marmalade, light grapey tones, a little bit of freshly pressed apple juice, a hint of stony minerality and a sulfurous touch of reductive funk. Nice, high acidity. The finish is ripe, simple and rather sweet with a medium-long aftertaste of white peach, some grapey tones, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light steely mineral notes and a hint of freshly pressed apple juice.
A nice and tasty but also quite simple and linear Kabinett from the very sweet end. The wine is pleasant and not lacking in balance or structure, but lacks depth and intensity. I hope aging will help in blowing off the skunky reductive notes and developing some depth and complexity. If opened now, the wine calls for some aeration as it was pretty reductive for quite some time - not the first time with bottles closed with a screwcap!
(87 points) - 2017 Daniel Theisen Riesling Schieferterrassen - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
7,5% alcohol. AP number -12 18. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep, slightly evolved neon-yellow color with a fain greenish hue. The nose feels sweetish, rather ripe and quite attractive with aromas of lemon marmalade, some candied ginger tones, a little bit of beeswax, light floral notes of orange blossom, a faint green hint of peppermint, a mineral touch of crushed rocks and a whiff of honeydew melon. The wine feels sweet, almost hedonistic yet still wonderfully balanced on the palate with a medium body and rich flavors of lemon marmalade and honeydew melon, some candied ginger tones, a little bit of pear jam, light stony mineral notes, a primary hint of grapey fruit and a touch of greengage. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness, intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is rich, sweet and quite intense with a long aftertaste of honey and lemon marmalade, some greengage, light saline mineral notes, a little bit of ripe yellow apple, a primary hint of grapey fruit and a floral touch of orange blossom.
A big and rich but also wonderfully balanced and drinkable Riesling. At first I thought the wine was a bit too sweet, but as it opened, it fleshed out beautifully, becoming quite lovely and impressive in a short span of time. This is not yet at dessert wine level of sweetness, but definitely much sweeter than your typical medium-dry or medium-sweet Mosel Riesling. It might be a bit hard to find a suitable use case for such a rich wine, but then again, this is a treat on its own. As the wine is still very youthful, I'm pretty sure it will continue to evolve and improve gracefully for years more. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages. At just 8€, this is a screaming bargain. Recommended.
(92 points) - 2006 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Beerenauslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (23.3.2024)
8,5% alcohol. AP number -07 07. Tasted blind.
Luminous, medium-deep amber color. The nose feels stunningly beautiful with sweet and very intense aromas of ripe apricot and saffron, some orange marmalade, light honeyed tones, a little bit of butternut squash, a hint of overripe pineapple, a touch of caramel and a whiff of nutmeg. Before I've even tasted the wine, I think that if this is not a botrytized dessert wine with some age, I don't know what is! The wine feels rich, oily and somewhat sticky on the palate with a full body and sweet flavors of orange marmalade and ripe tangerine, some honeyed tones, a little bit of caramel, light saffron notes, a hint of mushroomy botrytis spice and a raisiny touch of Sultanas. Unfortunately the medium acidity feels quite modest for such a sweet wine and the wine comes across as rather soft and round even at cellar temperature. The finish is rich, sticky and soft with a long, unctuous aftertaste of orange marmalade, some honeyed tones, a little bit of maple syrup, light dried-fruit notes of Sultanas and dried pineapple, a hint of saffron and a touch of browned butter.
A beautifully rich, complex and intensely flavored dessert wine that has a wonderful, captivating bouquet, but maybe a bit too soft and sticky mouthfeel. A wine this rich, sweet and concentrated really calls for a tremendous amount of acidity to stay in balance, but unfortunately the wine lacking a bit in that department - the overall feel is quite soft and mellow, lacking energy and precision. Nevertheless, the wine is still impressive in its own right, thanks to its remarkable flavor intensity and complexity. Pairing the wine with desserts might prove a bit difficult due to its modest acidity, but it works effortlessly as a dessert alone - and I'm quite sure it will perform just fine with pungent or salty cheeses.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
