Since my last natural wine tasting note thread with a tongue-in-cheek clickbait title proved to be such a grand success (according to my profile, it still is my #1 top topic) and managed to ruffle some feathers along the way, I thought it wouldn’t hurt to stir some pot and continue in the vein of the first natty thread.
So here we have another tasting report from a tasting where the wines we had didn’t really anything else in common with each other, except all of them being natural wines, mostly from the extreme end of the spectrum. This time we didn’t taste the wines blind because basically nobody in the attendance knew anything about the wines or producers we tasted. Well, I recognized a few names, but that’s about it.
And one cheeky attendee brought an extra blind white “that would fit the theme well” that we tasted right before the tasting as the evening’s first wine. That’s the wine on the extreme left.
Fortunately this time we didn’t have as horribly repugnant wines as we had in the previous session, but still the success rate wasn’t particularly uplifting. A very few wines were actually pretty lovely and a small handful of wines were more or less good, but a rather big number of wines were quite meh and some wines were so lousy I hope this was the last time I saw them.
But remember, I’m doing all this for you people, so you didn’t have to!
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2022 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough (27.3.2023)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from multiple vineyards in Marlborough. All the vineyards are parcels are vinified separately and the final wine is assembled as a cuvée that is as close to the house style as possible. Fermented partially spontaneously, partially with inoculated yeasts. Aged in stainless steel tanks (95-96%) and oak barrels (4-5%). 13,5% alcohol and 6,6 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Very pale, colorless and neutral whitish-green color. Immediately recognizable Sauvignon Blanc nose with intense, slightly pungent aromas of ripe Meyer lemon, some asparagus, light crunchy notes of green currants, a little bit of currant leaves and a hint of passion fruit. The wine feels crisp, racy and moderately herbaceous on the palate with a light-to-medium body and dry flavors of lemony citrus fruits and green currants, some vegetal notes of asparagus, light grassy green tones, a little bit of currant leaves, acid-driven hints of Granny Smith apple and passion fruit and a sweeter touch of mango. The bright, racy acidity lends good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is dry and crunchy with a medium-long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some crunchy notes of green currants, light vegetal asparagus tones, a little bit of tart Granny Smith apple, a herbaceous hint of grassy greenness and a touch of passion fruit.
As a whole, this felt like a drinkable but also very generic and anonymous NZ SB. There's good sense of balance and the wine is enjoyably brisk and structured, but aromatically and from taste perspective this is as predictable and uninteresting as a NZ SB can be. It was virtually unanimously agreed that this was a simple, inexpensive NZ SB - then one person came in late. We told him to taste wine and give his assessment. Without hearing what we had discussed before, he said "bleh, a cheap NZ SB". So there you have it. I really don't see any point in buying this kind of stuff at 33,98€, when you can get virtually identical stuff at half the price.
(86 points) -
2019 Andreas Tscheppe Sauvignon Blanc blaue Libelle - Austria, Styria, Südsteiermark (27.3.2023)
"Blue Dragonfly". 100% biodynamically farmed Sauvignon Blanc from 5-15 yo vineyards in Ried Krepskogel and Czamillonberg. Fermented spontaneously, full MLF, aged in large oak casks (50% new, 50% used) for 18 months. Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Hazy, quite pale yellow-green color. The nose feels a bit reductive with vague smoky and skunky tones, yet still wonderfully expressive with layered aromas of ripe yellow fruits, some waxy funk, a little bit of pineapple, light creamy oak tones, sweet hints of banana and cantaloupe and a faint green touch of herby spices. The wine feels youthful, firm and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense, fascinating flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and key lime, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light sharp notes of lemon juice, a hint of grilled pineapple and a faint tangy touch of acetic VA. The high acidity lends great sense of structure and energy to the wine. The finish is long, crunchy and slightly salty with a rather dry aftertaste of tart lemony citrus fruits and Granny Smith apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of crunchy quince.
A fantastic, fascinating and still very youthful naturalist Sauvignon Blanc brimming with concentration, character and depth of flavor. Even if there are some slightly sauvage nuances and the level of VA has just barely surpassed the threshold of perception, these qualities don't really obfuscate any flavors, only add to the complexity. Although the wine is already quite impressive, I can see it benefiting from further aging in the hopes that the wine loses its reductive qualities and integrates its oakier tones over the years. This is consistently both one of the best Sauvignon Blancs I know and one of the greatest natural white wines I've tasted. Not particularly affordable at 57,20€, but I'd argue this wine manages to deliver for the price.
(93 points) -
2019 Laura Lorenzo DaTerra Viticultores Ribeira Sacra Gavela da Vila - Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra (27.3.2023)
A naturalist Palomino from multiple 80-100 yo parcels on the slopes around the village of Manzanera in Val do Bibei. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 22 days, aged for 11 months in new 500-liter chestnut casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered in August 2020 with a minimal dose of SO2. Bottle #1157 of total 3384 bottles. 12% alcohol.
Youthful, very slightly hazy and quite intense pale golden yellow color. The nose feels restrained, subtly sweet-toned and a bit wild with aromas of resinous phenolic character, some waxy tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light nutty nuances, a hint of wood, a touch of pine needles and a whiff of grated citrus rind. The wine feels vibrant, somewhat wild and quite complex on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of phenolic spice and saline minerality, some woody tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light green notes of pine needles, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of nail polish VA. The wine is high in acidity with a tiniest bit of tannic tug on the gums. The finish is long, crisp and somewhat wild with dry flavors of saline minerality and tart Granny Smith apple, some resinous phenolic notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light woody nuances, a hint of bruised apple and a faint green-toned touch of minty lift.
A surprisingly brisk and zippy skin-contact Palomino that both looks more like a white wine than a classic orange wine. The wine shows some obvious "wild" qualities, so nobody is going to confuse this wine with a clean, conventional wine, but I want to emphasize that this still isn't a natty funk bomb. Especially the high acidity - something quite atypical for a Palomino - is always a nice surprise. It's hard to assess whether the wine is best now or if it is going to improve with further aging, but at least it is drinking nicely right now. Good value at approx.20€.
(91 points) -
2019 Laura Lorenzo DaTerra Viticultores Azos da Vila - Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra (27.3.2023)
A blend of Mencia, Merenzao and Mouraton (totaling 70%), the remaining portion rounded out with Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro and Palomino. The grapes are sourced from multiple 80-100 yo parcels on the slopes on the village of Manzanera in Val do Bibei. 70% of the fruit is destemmed, the remainder vinified in whole bunches. The grapes are foot-trodden, fermented spontaneously, and macerated with the skins for 16 days in 500-liter clay tinajas. Aged for 11 months in 500-liter chestnut (50%) and French oak (50%) casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered in September 2020 with a minimal dose of SO2. Bottle #340 of total 5184 bottles. 12,5% alcohol.
Slightly hazy and almost fully opaque purplish dark red color. The nose feels youthful, somewhat primary and quite volatile with aromas of fresh bilberries, some acetic VA, a little bit of nail polish, light sweet notes of strawberries, a hint of cherries and a touch of something inky. The wine is youthful and moderately acetic on the palate with a medium body and dry, acid-driven flavors of blueberries, some vinegary notes of acetic VA, a little bit of tart cranberry, light nail polish tones, tart and slightly bitter hints of lingonberries and sour cherries and a touch of herby spices. The structure relies almost entirely on the high acidity as the tannins feel quite light, ripe and supple. The finish is dry and tangy with a moderately long aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light herby tones, a hint of nail polish and a touch of crunchy crowberries.
An enjoyably fresh and crunchy but also somewhat too volatile Galician red. Contrasting with the 2017 vintage, which showed only a tiny bit of sweet nail polish character, this vintage seems to have noticeably higher levels of VA, making the wine seem quite acetic both in the nose and on the palate. While the wine is still drinkable and quite enjoyable, I'd really like the wine to be less volatile and acetic - the finer nuances of the wine get badly overwhelmed by the at times rather dominant VA.
(85 points) -
2019 Laura Lorenzo DaTerra Viticultores Azos do Pobo - Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra (27.3.2023)
A blend composed mainly of Mencía, Mouratón and Merenzao (totaling to about 90% of the blend) with tiny amounts of Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro and other varieties rounding out the remainder. The fruit is sourced two 100-yo parcels in Soutipedre, a parish in Val do Bibei, Ribeira Sacra, harvested on the 2nd week of September. 60% of the fruit is destemmed and crushed, 40% is vinified as whole bunches that are foot-crushed. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 18 days, aged for 11 months in 500-liter chestnut and oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a minimal dose of SO2. 12% alcohol. Bottle #1061 of total 2052 bottles.
Moderately opaque and still relatively youthful cherry red color with a faint blueish hue. The nose feels a bit reductive and slightly volatile with notes of hard-boiled eggs, some gunpowder smoke and a little bit of acetic VA along with crunchy aromas of lingonberries and blueberries, light cranberry tones, a hint of fresh red plums, a touch of stony minerality and a barnyardy whiff of bretty funk. The wine feels ripe yet dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and quite nuanced flavors of brambly black raspberries and chokeberry juice, some funky notes of leather, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light acetic notes of VA, a hint of bretty barnyard and a touch of crowberry. The structure relies on both the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and somewhat acetic with a a long, acid-driven aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some funky notes of leather, a little bit of chokeberry, light vinegary nuances of VA, a bretty hint of stable floor and a touch of darker plummy fruit.
This was a big step up from the other red Lorenzo wine we tasted, 2019 Azos da Vila, which was a bit too acetic for my taste. However, contrasting this bottle to the 2019 Azos do Pobo we tasted in last October, this wine seemed both a bit younger and somewhat more natty in comparison. Although this wasn't as vinegary as Azos da Vila, the level of VA was still higher than in the bottle half a year ago. While still a nice wine, the elevated levels of VA took their toll on the drinkability. I guess there might be some bottle variation with these Lorenzo wines - which is not particularly surprising, considering they are pretty much from the very naturalist end of the spectrum.
(89 points) -
2018 Bimbache Vinícola El Hierro Bimbache Blanco - Spain, Canary Islands, El Hierro (27.3.2023)
To my understanding, this is the debut vintage of this particular label. A blend of Vijariego Blanco, Listán Blanco, Gual, Baboso Blanco and Pedro Ximénez from vineyards in El Hierro, the smallest and most isolated island of the Canary Islands. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 12 months in old Austrian oak casks and stainless steel tanks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,6% alcohol.
Youthful, slightly hazy yellow-green color. The nose feels leesy, a bit wild and slightly volatile with aromas of lemony citrus fruits and sorrel, some crunchy notes of quince, a little bit of honeyed richness, light mineral nuances of wet rocks, a hint of green apples, a touch of cantaloupe and a subtly acetic whiff of VA. The wine feels leesy, quite broad and pretty dry with a medium body and intense flavors of sorrel and ripe Granny Smith apple, some sweeter notes of cantaloupe, light stony mineral tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, a bretty hint of leathery funk and a touch of tangy salinity. At first the wine feels almost bracing with very high acidity, but the zip softens up quite quickly, making me think there's a tiny bit of CO2 in the wine. The acidity still feels pretty high - although the structure seems to rely not only on acidity, but also on the angular mineral notes and saline tang. The finish is firm, long and quite salty with a rather dry aftertaste of sharp lemony citrus fruits and saline minerality, some crunchy Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of sorrel, light smoky nuances of reduction, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of honeyed sweetness.
A crisp, nice and characterful naturalista that certainly has a bit of funk, but still manages to come across as quite poised and sophisticated, not natty and weird. There's a good amount saline minerality here - as seems to be typical of so many Canary Islands wines - and also a tiny bit of smoky character that might just be reduction, or then some volcanic character. I was very surprised to learn the wine had as high as 14,6% ABV, because it certainly didn't feel that high - there was no obvious alcohol heat in the nose nor on the palate and the overall feel wasn't as ripe to suggest the wine was so high in alcohol. All in all, a harmonious, characterful and in its own way even pretty stylish little naturalist white.
(90 points) -
2020 Bimbache Vinícola El Hierro Bimbache Miguelito Jackson Blan de Nuar - Spain, Canary Islands, El Hierro (27.3.2023)
A still white made with blend of red Baboso Negro, Verijadiego Negro, Listán Negro (and some Listán Blanco and Verijadiego Blanco) from the vineyards in El Hierro, the smallest and most isolated island of the Canary Islands. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and aged for 12 months in an old Austrian oak cask - under a flor, according to some sources. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Total production 500 bottles. 13,05% alcohol and pH 3,03.
Pale, youthful lemon-yellow color. The nose feels a bit restrained and somewhat reductive with aromas of fresh yellow apple, some flatulent notes of reduction, a little bit of ripe citrus fruits, light smoky volcanic tones and a hint of funky wild character. The wine feels youthful, quite broad and somewhat neutral on the palate with a moderately full body and slightly understated flavors of ripe white peach, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of stony minerality, light salty notes of sorrel, a hint of crunchy golden apple and a skunky hint of reduction. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp and somewhat neutral with a medium-long aftertaste of tart green apples, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit, light sharp notes of key lime, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A somewhat ripe yet pretty crisp and crunchy little volcanic white that comes across as a bit neutral and understated in character. The bright acidity and cool mineral tones keep the wine enjoyably refreshing, but as a whole the wine comes across as somewhat underwhelming. I guess reduction is what keeps the wine from opening up - even if the wine didn't become particularly expressive with some air - so I'd wager a handful of years in a cellar might help the wine to lose its reduction and turn into something more expressive. Remember to give the wine enough air to help it blow its reductive qualities.
(86 points) -
2019 La Grange Tiphaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clef de Sol - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire (27.3.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc from biodynamically farmed vineyards averaging 80 years in age. Harvested on 23rd and 24th of September, 2019. Fermented spontaneously in oak barrels. 14% alcohol.
Pale, youthful and quite neutral yellow-green color. The nose feels quite ripe but also a bit reticent with aromas of white peach, some apple jam, light cool green-toned hints of peppermint, a little bit of cantaloupe, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of creaminess. The wine feels broad, ripe and quite sunny on the palate with a full body and lush flavors of apple jam and mushy white peach, some fresh apricot tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light creamy nuances, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of acacia honey. The rather high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate and the medium acidity gives some sense of balance and structure to the wine but the overall feel remains quite round and a bit heavy. The finish is rich, juicy and slightly warm with a moderately long, sweetly-fruited aftertaste of white peach and fresh apricot, some rich waxy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light sweet nuances of apple jam, a hint of creaminess and a touch of honeydew melon.
A round, fruit-driven and a bit weighty Chenin from the very ripe end of the spectrum. I guess in a cool vintage this kind of richness and lush flavor profile can work really well when you have more acidity and the overall fruit character doesn't get too sweet. However, this vintage feels a bit too soft and heavy, also starting to taste a bit too sweet after the wine warms up in the glass. This is a pretty nice wine, but the somewhat modest acidity does take a small toll on the final score.
(87 points) -
2018 La Grange Tiphaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Epinays - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire (27.3.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc from the biodynamically farmed, 15 years old lieu-dit Les Epinays. Harvested on 14th of September, 2018. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 18 months in oak foudres and egg-shaped concrete tanks. 14,5% alcohol.
Youthful and luminous pale green color. The nose feels fragrant and clean with nuanced aromas of ripe yellow apple, some zesty citrus fruits, a little bit of acacia honey, light apple jam tones, a hint of greengage and a touch of waxy richness. The wine feels ripe, broad and quite substantial on the palate with a full body and youthful, at least seemingly off-dry flavors of lemon marmalade and beeswax, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of white peach, light honeyed tones, a hint of apple jam and a touch of creaminess. The high alcohol punches through a bit and the moderately high acidity lends sense of structure to the wine, even if it doesn't really feel high enough to offset any of the sweetness from the rich fruit flavors. The finish is big, ripe and somewhat fat with a long, somewhat off-dry aftertaste of white peach and apple sauce, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of beeswax, light honeyed nuances, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of quince jam.
This turned out to be a rather big, heavy and sweet-toned Chenin, but relatively nice for such - the fruit department feels clean, vibrant and nuanced and even if the wine isn't super brisk and zippy in the acid department, there is still enough acidity to keep the wine balanced and structured. It's hard to assess whether the wine is technically dry or actually off-dry / medium-dry (or even medium sweet) because the wine is so big, ripe and sweet-toned that you can't really tell whether the richness comes from any residual sugar or just the ripe, concentrated fruit. Nevertheless, this was a great effort - even if it drinks more like a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape rather than like a Vouvray. Seeing how youthful the wine is, I could see this aging gracefully for many, many more years. Drink now or whenever you want before the 2030's.
(88 points) -
2020 Catherine Riss Riesling De Grès ou de Force - France, Alsace (27.3.2023)
A naturalist Riesling from the organically farmed vineyards around the village of Reichsfeld. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 11-12 months in old barriques. 13% alcohol.
Pale, very slightly hazy and almost completely neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels crisp, crunchy and somewhat wild with aromas of Granny Smith apple and salty ocean air, some lemony notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light acetic notes of VA, a hint of medicinal ether, a touch of burnt hair and a whiff of grapefruit. The wine feels wild, funky and rather noticeably acetic on the palate with a rather light body and quite natty flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and sweeter notes of apple jam, some volatile notes of nail polish remover and white vinegar, light waxy tones, a little bit of tart key lime, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of burnt hair. The high acidity keeps the wine crisp and fresh, but also somewhat shrill with all the acetic notes. The finish is crisp, tart and funky with flavors of tart key lime, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of wild waxy character, light sweeter nuances of apple jam, a hint of stony minerality and - after a little while - a faint touch of nutty mousiness.
Ugh, this was just way too natty and acetic for my taste. The wine was still somewhat drinkable - but not particularly enjoyable - at first, but as it started to slowly turn mousy with air, even the (debatable) drinkability started to disappear into thin air. With these natural wines bottle variation is an unavoidable fact, so I really can't say whether our bottle was representative or not, but based on how the wine performed this time, I am not in a hurry to get me another one. Feels pretty pricey for the quality at 23,25€.
(70 points) -
2020 Catherine Riss Pinot Noir T'as pas du Schiste? - France, Alsace (27.3.2023)
A naturalist Pinot Noir from the organically farmed vineyards in the lieu-dit Schieferberg. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 15 days, aged for 12-14 months in two old barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Strikingly dark appearance for a Pinot Noir with a deep, almost fully opaque blackish-red color that turns to pale red towards the rim. The nose feels brooding, fragrant and rather sweet-toned with aromas of funky animale character, some balsamic tones, a little bit of canned beet root, light floral notes of violets, a hint of something inky and a touch of pomegranate juice. While pretty nuanced, I wouldn't say the nose shows that much Pinosity. The wine feels ripe, juicy and dark-toned on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and somewhat natty, slightly sweetly-fruited flavors of dark forest berries and ripe boysenberries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of black cherry, light spicy nuances, a funky hint of somethinganimale and a touch of pickled beet. The overall feel is a bit soft but there is still some sense of firmness, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and ripe tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is ripe, juicy and gently grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of sweet black raspberries and black cherries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of pickled beets, light boysenberry tones, a hint of floral lift and a touch of sharp acetic character.
A very ripe, quite substantial and rather wild Pinot Noir that feels a bit anonymous due to its ripeness and natty overall character - had this been served blind, I would've had trouble identifying the wine as a Pinot Noir, let alone an Alsatian one. If you can tolerate some funk and VA, this is a decent red wine, but to me this felt more like a generic naturalist red wine than something particularly representative of Pinot Noir or Alsace. Comes across as somewhat expensive for the quality at 36€.
(85 points) -
2020 Catherine Riss Pinot Noir Libre comme l'air - France, Alsace (27.3.2023)
100% Pinot Noir. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 10 days, after pressing moved into old 228-liter Burgundy pièces to finish fermentation. Aged in oak for 10 months. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added SO2. 12,5% alcohol.
Surprisingly deep, dark and somewhat opaque cherry red color with a pale red rim. The nose feels somewhat funky but not overtly natty with aromas of sweet black cherries, some volatile notes of medicinal ether, a little bit of bretty funk, light Kriek Lambic tones, a hint of brambly black raspberry and a touch of balsamic VA. The wine feels ripe, juicy and relatively clean on the palate with a medium body and enjoyably vibrant flavors of boysenberries and sweet dark forest fruits, some juicy cherry tones, a little bit of balsamico and ethery VA, light saline mineral notes, a sweet hint of plum jam and a savory touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is pretty balanced with its rather high acidity and ripe, supple medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy, mellow and quite long with pretty dark-toned flavors of boysenberries and black cherries, some volatile notes of balsamico, a little bit of saline minerality, light sweet nuances of plum jam, a brambly hint of black raspberries and a touch of ethery VA.
A nice, tasty and pretty sophisticated natural wine. The wine might not be that recognizable for a Pinot Noir due to its relatively high ripeness and somewhat funky overall character, but from the three Catherine Riss wines we tasted, this was both the most recognizable for a Pinot Noir and the least natty effort. There is a little bit of bretty funk here and the level of VA feels slightly elevated, but the wine isn't overtly funky and the volatile nuances just a little bit of balsamic richness to the wine without making it feel too sharp and acetic. All in all a pretty nice effort. If I had to choose one 2020 Riss Pinot Noir, I'd go with this one. Priced according to its quality at 17,10€.
(89 points) -
2020 Catherine Riss Pinot Noir Empreinte - France, Alsace (27.3.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from the high-altitude vineyards. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 15 days, after pressing moved into old 228-liter Burgundy pièces to finish fermentation. Aged in oak for 10-12 months. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added SO2. 13% alcohol.
Slightly hazy and moderately opaque blood-red color. The nose feels rather wild and funky with rather volatile aromas of medicinal ether and balsamic VA, some ripe cherry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light inky nuances, a floral hint of roses, a touch of spicy Pinosity and a bretty whiff of smoky phenolic notes. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly natty on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat sauvage flavors of ripe black cherries, some acetic notes of tangy VA, a little bit of pickled beet root, light cranberry sauce tones, a hint of balsamico and a touch of blueberry juice. The wine is moderately high in acidity with very light and delicate tannins that contribute a little bit to the texture and not really anything to the structure. The finish is a bit natty and acetic with a tiny bit of tannic grip and a rather rich and moderately lengthy aftertaste of juicy black cherry, some blueberry and boysenberry tones, a little bit of vinegary VA, light plummy tones, a volatile hints of medicinal ether and balsamico and a touch of earthy spice.
A somewhat natty yet still moderately drinkable Alsatian Pinot Noir - although I'd argue whether this wine shows really any typicity. The wine is dark and rich - both qualities you don't often see in an Alsatian Pinot Noir - and the rather elevated, at times even acetic, levels of VA effectively mask away most - if not all - notes typical of Pinot Noir. Well, at least it is quite high in acidity with very little in the way of tannic structure. I liked this more than the similarly natty but perhaps even bigger and darker-toned 2020 T'as pas du Schiste? Pinot Noir, but I felt both these more expensive Pinots were inferior compared to the more affordable 2020 Libre Comme l'Air Pinot Noir. This was a decent effort, but nothing I'd actively seek out - especially at 25,70€.
(87 points) -
2017 Samuel Boulay La Demoiselle - France, Rhône, Vin de France (27.3.2023)
Labeled as "La Demoiselle - l'éphémère - XVII". 100% Viognier from a 60-yo vineyard in Ardèche. Gently pressed into two old oak barrels, aged for 20 months. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added SO2. 14% alcohol.
Luminous and quite pale lemon yellow color. The nose is wild, heavily volatile and quite acetic with a pronounced smack of medicinal ether followed by some malty tones, a little bit of ripe quince and a hint of vinegary VA. The wine is slightly fizzy, moderately alcoholic and quite repugnant on the palate with a rich, full body and even somewhat viscous texture, yet surprisingly bland and thin taste with natty flavors of white balsamico and nail polish, some Granny Smith apple, light lemony tones, a little bit of crunchy gooseberry, light waxy notes and a hint of sharp vinegary VA. The wine is surprisingly high in acid for a Viognier. The finish is long, wild and unpleasant with a heavily volatile aftertaste of sharp acetic character and lemony citrus fruits, some crunchy Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of nail polish remover, light salty mineral nuances and a hint of white balsamico. After swallowing, the high levels of acetic acid lend a rather rough sensation in the throat while the high alcohol makes the wine end on a rather warm note.
Ugh, this was an undrinkable mess. Too much alcohol and way too much VA. Although the wine was quite full in body with a rich texture and high alcohol, the rather thin fruit department and zippy acidity made me think the wine was made from borderline under-ripe Viognier grapes - despite the rich texture, there were no varietal flavors here. Although I'm not sure whether anyone would've been able to pick up any of those beneath all that VA. All in all, this was a big disappointment. At 36,95€ this is simply waste of money. Avoid.
(61 points) -
NV Domaine la Bohème (Patrick Bouju) Festejar! Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (27.3.2023)
A pétillant naturel wine made with Chardonnay and Tresallier grown in Auvergne (according to some sources) or with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling sourced from all over France (according to other sources). Fermented spontaneously, bottled unfined and unfiltered. No SO2. Lot number LCH08. 12,5% alcohol.
Slightly hazy lemon yellow color. Striking, odd and not particularly attractive nose with aromas of Appenzeller cheese and goaty animale notes, some mealy apple and ripe lemony notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light leesy notes of yeast, a woolly hint of lanolin, an acetic touch of VA and a whiff of sweet yellow fruits. The wine feels leesy, somewhat wild and slightly spritzy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and off-dry flavors of leesy yeast and sweet notes of white balsamico, savory umami, some toasty notes of brioche, chopped nuts and caramel, a little bit of bruised apple, light acetic notes of VA, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of saline minerality. The high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is long, somewhat wild and quite nuanced with flavors of saline minerality and acetic VA, some toasty notes of croissant and roasted nuts, a little bit of white balsamico, light bruised apple tones, a hint of lemony citrus fruit and a leesy touch of yeast.
Now this was a weird one - but also quite fascinating as well! I must admit the overall flavor profile is maybe a bit too wild for my preference and especially the nose was just too odd for pleasure, but still the wine was relatively pleasant and tasty as well. I'd like my wines to show a bit less VA - especially those acetic qualities - and smell a bit less like animal, but otherwise this was a rather nice little fizz. Nothing I'd buy for myself, though. At 28,25€ this feels not only expensive for its quality, but also quite pricey for a naturalist pét-nat.
(82 points) -
2020 Domaine la Bohème (Patrick Bouju) Cailloux - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (27.3.2023)
A blend of organically farmed Pinot Noir and - according to some sources, Gamay, according to other sources, Chardonnay - from very old vineyards, 75% destemmed and 25% vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 30 days. Aged in neutral oak barriques. Lot number L20. 13% alcohol.
Murky, moderately opaque yet not particularly deep purplish-red color. The nose feels somewhat restrained and quite savory with aromas of red-toned fruits and spicy Pinosity, some lifted notes of VA, a little bit of kirsch, light crunchy notes of cranberries and a hint of raw meat. The wine feels tangy, dry and somewhat volatile on the palate with a light-to-medium body and crunchy flavors of redcurrants, ripe cranberries and fresh raspberries, some salt-cured beef, a little bit of nail polish remover, light cherry tones, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The wine is high in acidity with very light and supple tannins. The finish is dry, fresh and crunchy with slightly wild, red-toned flavors of saline minerality and brambly raspberries, some crunchy notes of lingonberries and redcurrants, a little bit of tangy acetic character, light earthy tones, a volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of cranberry juice.
A nice and fresh but also pretty natty and harmless naturalist red. The elevated level of VA feels somewhat bothersome at times and even though the wine shows some varietal flavor in the distinctive notes of spicy Pinosity, I really can't say this is a particularly distinctive, complex or interesting wine. Just a light and crunchy little red wine with a bit too much VA. Comes across as rather expensive for the quality at 34,40€.
(85 points) -
2020 Vinas Mora Kaamen II - Croatia, Dalmatia, Sjeverna Dalmacija, Primošten (27.3.2023)
100% old-vine (60-80 yo) Babić from bushvine vineyards in Primošten. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 5 days in open-top oak fermentors. Pressed and aged for 10 months in old 500-liter demi-muids (75%) and fiberglass tanks (25%). Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a tiny dose of SO2. Lot number L072021. 12,5% alcohol.
Quite youthful, moderately deep and very slightly hazy garnet color that permits very little light through. The nose feels cool, characterful and somewhat meaty with moderately funky aromas of wakame kelp and brambly black raspberry, some earthy notes, a little bit of leathery funk, light fragrant notes of coniferous forest and a hint of damp wood or something vaguely tea-like. The wine feels quite clean, very characterful and rather meaty with a medium body and rather distinctive flavors of crunchy chokeberries and gamey umami, some leathery notes, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light woody or earthy Oolong tea-like tones, brambly hints of black raspberries and arctic brambles and a touch of elderberry juice. There might be also a tiny bit of tangy acetic VA, but that note just shifts in and out of perception, so I'm not entirely sure. The wine is high in acidity with very little tannic grip. The finish is dry, long and tangy with a tiny bit of tannic grip and a crunchy, characterful aftertaste of tart lingonberries and chokeberries, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of leathery funk, light notes of tobacco and coniferous forest, a hint of gamey meat and a brambly touch of black raspberries.
A very characterful and distinctive - at times aromatically even a bit odd - but still quite tasty and enjoyably balanced Croatian red wine. The flavor profile of Babić seems to be very unique and even if the wine is made in a quite hands-off fashion, the funky and natty notes haven't overwhelmed the wine, turning it into an anonymous and heavily natty wine. Fun and interesting stuff. Not really a grand vin, but nothing to complain about either. I could happily return to this wine again in the future. Priced somewhat according to its quality at approx. 24€.
(88 points) -
2020 Les mangeux d'Pierre Bugey Coal - France, Savoie, Bugey (27.3.2023)
The sophomore vintage of this label. 100% organically farmed Chardonnay from a 40-yo estate vineyard in Bugey. Fermented spontaneously in fiberglass tanks, aged for 24 months in old demi-muids. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, quite clear and very slightly hazy yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat wild with aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some leesy tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light sweeter nuances of juicy white peach, a hint of waxy funk, a touch of nail polish VA and a whiff of crunchy quince. The wine feels ripe, fresh and somewhat neutral on the palate with a medium body and slightly wild flavors of sweet white peach and juicy red apple, some zesty citrus fruit tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light leesy tones, an acetic hint of balsamic VA and a lifted touch of nail polish. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity. The finish is ripe, somewhat sweetly-fruited and a bit wild with flavors of ripe white peach and apple jam, some crunchy notes of quince, a little bit of waxy funk, light vinegary notes of white balsamico, a hint of leesy yeast and a touch of nail polish. At times it feels as if there is a suggestion of mousiness, but then it disappears again, so it might be that I'm just imagining.
A drinkable but not particularly interesting or memorable naturalist white. Feels a bit too natty with its funky and excessively volatile notes. Can't say I'm particularly thrilled. Feels rather pricey for the quality at approx. 29€.
(81 points) -
2020 Les mangeux d'Pierre Bugey Elzéard - France, Savoie, Bugey (27.3.2023)
The sophomore vintage of this label. 100% organically farmed Pinot Noir, a portion of which is sourced from an old vineyard planted in the 1970's. Vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 18 days. Aged for 22 months in an old 2000-liter foudre. 12% alcohol.
Intense, almost fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels dry, somewhat bretty and funky with aromas of barnyard, raspberries and pomegranate juice, some leathery notes, a little bit of balsamic VA, light cherry juice tones, a hint of nutmeg and a touch of pipe tobacco. The wine feels dry, somewhat dull and a bit natty on the palate with a medium body and quite acid-driven flavors of ripe yet crunchy crowberries, chokeberries and tart lingonberries, some black raspberry and plummy tones, light acetic notes of VA, a little bit of burnt hair, a bretty hint of something animale and a ferrous touch of blood. The wine is high in acidity with light and very gently grippy tannins. The finish is dry, funky and slightly grippy with a moderately long aftertaste of black raspberries, some Play-Doh, a little bit of acetic VA, light burnt hair tones, a hint of tart lingonberries and a touch of leathery funk. Fortunately I can't detect any mousiness even if I was pretty sure from the nose the wine would taste mousy in the aftertaste!
I do like Pinot Noir, but I must admit this is not a Pinot that would win me over. The wine is just too natty and funky for my preference - and I have some tolerance for rustic, funky wines! Although the wine shows pretty good sense of balance and even some complexity, the piercing notes of VA dominate the wine rather noticeably and the barnyardy notes of brett don't just add some nice, rustic complexity to the wine - they actually make the wine feel just too dull and muddle the fruit flavors quite badly. At 21€ this really isn't worth a buy.
(83 points) -
2020 O2Y Le P'tit Nico - France, Vin de France (27.3.2023)
A collaboration wine between Olivier Guala, Yves Roy of Domaine Nøvice and Yoshinori Kuroda, an assistant at Domaine Overnoy (aka. O, Y and Y - hence the winery name). Made with purchased, organically farmed Chardonnay and Poulsard grapes from an interplanted vineyard in Arbois. Co-fermented and macerated for two weeks in a tank. Vinified without any added SO2. 12,5% alcohol.
Very unappealing, murky, noticeably cloudy and rather opaque pale raspberry-red to deep pinkish color. The nose feels sweet, volatile and funky with very natty aromas of red damsons and acetic VA, some phenolic spicy notes, a little bit of raspberry juice, light white balsamic tones, volatile hints of nail polish, a touch of leesy character and a bretty whiff of horse stables. The wine feels very funky, noticeably natty and slightly fizzy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and quite acetic flavors of vinegary VA and white balsamico, some raspberry juice, a little bit of nail polish, light salty notes of brackish water, fruity hints of ripe red damsons and candied primary fruit tones and a leesy touch of yeast. The sweet, volatile and vinegary notes lend a somewhat Flanders red ale feel to the wine, but also make me gag. They're just a bit too much for me. The wine is high in acidity with no tannins whatsoever. The finish is salty, crisp and acetic with a short-to-medium-long funky aftertaste of sweaty leather saddle and nail polish VA, some brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of strawberry juice, light salty nuances and a hint of sharp acetic character. After a little while a tiny bit of mousiness starts to emerge, which is exactly the point when I dump the wine.
Nope. Can't remember the last time when a small tasting pour was enough to make me gag. This wine is from the deep and murky end of the natural wine spectrum and I'm perfectly happy to stay away from that place.
(58 points) -
2021 Domaine Mada Thank You Satan - France, Vin de France (27.3.2023)
100% Cinsault vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, aged for 12 months in old demi-muids. No vintage indication on the label, just lot number "Cins/21". 11,5% alcohol.
Murky, quite youthful and almost fully opaque pale cherry red color. The nose feels quite reductive with aromas of gunpowder smoke, some licorice, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of acetic VA and a touch of phenolic spice. The wine feels simple, primary and quite straightforward on the palate with a light body and fruity primary flavors of raspberry candies and pear drops, some apple-driven crunchy fruit, a little bit of tangy salinity, light acetic notes of vinegary VA, a hint of earth and a faint touch of mousiness that grows in intensity towards the aftertaste. The wine is high in acidity with no tannins to speak of. The finish is crisp, almost sour and slightly mousy with a medium-long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and unripe raspberries, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of acetic VA, light earthy notes, a hint of strawberry juice and a mousy touch of rancid nuts and sesame seeds.
A mediocre natty wine with very little depth or substance, too much VA and - as a cherry on too - this all finishing with minute yet detectable streak of mousiness. Tasting this wine you really understand its name - you sort of automatically whisper it under your breath after you've managed to get your game together after swallowing the first sip. Pro tip: don't swallow - spit. Or avoid the wine altogether. At 30€ the price of this wine just doesn't make any sense.
(63 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
