Crossed off a bucket list wine for my birthday and, wow, it didn’t disappoint! Started out a little coiled up and very acidic, but really blossomed after an hour or so in the decanter. Very complex, very lively, and just incredibly engaging. What a wine! Unbelievable that a natural white wine from 1996 is so alive and needs this much air.
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Unicorn! Happy birthday Andy
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Drank the bottle in the mountains above Nice in Valdeblore.
We are starting to head back towards Paris at the end of the week, if I spot any VJ there, will let you know.
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Cyril Fhal Clos du Rouge George Cuvee du Patron 2022
Grenache, and depending on whom you trust, Carignan or Mourvedre (I suspect the former). It has everything that polarizes: scratchy tannins, funk, a faint vinegery note. Good acidity. Dark fruit, peat, yeast.
It looks like the wines have some following. Or maybe it’s selection bias: the wines get predominantly picked by hardcore fans of the genre. If you prefer round, well behaved wines look elsewhere.
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I tried the 2020 Vieilles Vignes last summer - and really quite enjoyed its fresh, cool profile.
Well, I just had a fun time at Les Caves du Panthéon in Paris, which I suspect lovers of natural wines will already know of. I’ve not been there for many years but my wife has been buying me regular birthday presents there (most of which I’ve really enjoyed). I had a great chat with the owner and filled a carton of six with some new wines to try, all natural (I believe), which I shall report on in due course. I don’t think there’s a website and the range changes all the time anyway, but it’s quite wonderful - like Ali Baba’s cave. I felt like I did as a whippersnapper in a sweet shop!
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One of my favorite wine shops!
I’m not surprised - it’s such a fun place! I didn’t find the wines over-priced either (apart from Bordeaux CCs, but that’s to be expected).
a few natural Jura’s last night. All showing tremendously well.
I have heard about variance on Labet’s 18’s, but I have only had good bottles. This 18 Lias was reductive Jura heaven. Storing these types of wines correctly is probably even more important. At release two good friends and I bought around 50-60 bottles of the 18’s and not a single one have been off or felt old.
2019 Aux Bois from Marnes Blanches have started to develop a bit of butter and caramel notes. But acidity is on point and you get all the lemon and salt notes you want. It shows great now, but from experience I know this is at its best. They don’t age well past this age most of the time.
My first long elevage from Labet. 2015. Seven years ouillé. 15,8% abv. What the fuck 
I heard a lot about these wines and how oxi some of them shows. So we treaded it like an oxi wine and drank it while eating various cheeses. That was a good choice. It was super oxi, but the depth in taste was amazing! A lot of salty, cheesy and nutty notes.
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The Labet VJ’s have a lower ABV (and I think lower PH) than the long élevage releases, the long élevage bottles are not really my jam.
Here a couple more Labet from the past couple of nights in Marseille, the 2020 Varrons PN is really firm and an hour in a carafe is needed.
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Julien Petitjean. Domaine de la Roseraie. Cuvee Artemis 2020. B. 746 of 870.
This is quite a nice surprise. The cork, however, was very wet, and it’s doubtful the wine would have lived to 2030, so I hope that despite the dogmatic natural approach of the domaine, they will start using DIAM.
Stone fruits, pomelo, and chamomile are the dominant scents. The viscosity is a little oily, probably from extended elevage. Still, the wine doesn’t seem over-oaked or anything like that, because the acidity is quite lively and plays well against the oak. The palate is quite serious with Meyer lemon, ripe peach, and just a touch of vanilla. It’s somewhat giving me a riper version of Lamys Chataigniers. I paid 80,000 KRW, which should be equivalent to something like 45€. For that, it might be a little expensive. Definitely picking something up if I find it at a discount in Europe.
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I think I posted about the wines of Haroon Rahimi on this thread. Had two more on my recent Paris trip and in a sea of natural wine, they were once again absolutely wonderful. I brought them to a dinner of Chefs and Somms and no one knew them but all were extremely impressed. One was a skin fermented white I know it has some sylvaner and auxerrois (Zoroastrian) and the other Pinot Noir (Alesacius).
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Red fruit, Christmas spices, forest floor. A trace of gas, otherwise a solid (if overpriced) proposition in natural vein.
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If anyone is traveling to the south of France, here are three great addresses.
I had multiple dinners at all three and drank great bottles, in addition all of the folks were super friendly and happy to open rare bottles:
- Le Canon in Nice
- Auberge de la Roche in Valdeblore
- Bistrot Chave in Marseille
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once upon a time i drank a bit of kagami at le canon for around 40 euros. the wines were still hard to find back then and market price was quite a bit higher but as you mentioned they were happy to pull the cork. good to know they are still worth a visit.
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X-posted
Posting some natural (or at least natural-adjacent) Juras I’ve enjoyed with many of my fellow SF compadres over the past six months. Most of these wines were not drunk together.
WHITE WINES
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Cuvée Florine: Expressive aromas of lemon and white flowers on a nose that is just a touch lifted. Sleek, silky and subtly textured with punchy acidity that is mouth-watering, but already fairly well integrated. Juicy white fruit with a grace not of bitter lemon peel on the palate. There’s warm spices and a subtle note of salinity and vanilla on the finish. Already very approachable, in contrast to the '20 Grands Teppes VV, which could use more time.
2018 Jean-François Ganevat Grusse en Billat: The nose is a little more subtle and stony in comparison to the '20 Florine. There’s tart acidity on the opening attack that is quite firm but already well integrated. Much more mineral and saltier, you can taste the wet rocks on the palate. Razor sharp, the notes of spice and vanilla from the oak are already quite integrated into the palate. In comparison with the '20 Florine, this has much more mid-palate intensity.
2017 Anne et Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Arbois Sous Voile: Strong oxidative aromas of roasted nuts, honey, and a slight sting of wood varnish on the nose. The palate is very tart and lemon-forward from the strong acidity with the oxidative, sherry-adjacent flavors adding a layer of complexity onto the palate. Very powerful, but also very light on its feet and super elegant, as if its floating over the palate. My first time drinking a sous voile white from Ganevat, and it is really good!
NV Jean-François Ganevat Macvin du Jura Vieux: A blend of mostly Chardonnay with some Savagnin. Quite oxidative on the nose with the heat from the fortification also noticeable. Some honeyed notes on the palate, and it finishes with a hint of sweetness with some heat and bite. Despite the alcohol, it comes across as light and finessed (for a fortified dessert wine).
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes: Lots of aromatic floral aromas on the nose with tart citrus and salinity on the palate accompanied by a vibrant, lively acidity. However, this is still a little tightly coiled. It could use a couple more years in the cellar to unwind. But, lots of great potential.
2022 Mathieu Allante et Christian Boulanger Pataratte: Really delicious and approachable right now. Definitely natural, with plenty of that lemony, acid-driven, feral quality you get from Jura Chardonnay, but clean and bright without any flaws.
2005 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père: Wow, absolutely electric acidity that just persists from the initial attack throughout the long, long finish. The palate is infused with lemon, salt, and crushed rock, and texturally, this is quite fine and seamless, with a lot more polish and finesse than the feral quality that Jura whites can sometimes have. Razor sharp with incredible tension and length. Phenomenal wine. From magnum.
2012 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Marguerite: Another delicious and scintillating Jura Chardonnay (Melon-Queue-Rouge), with tremendous acid, citrus, salt, and minerality on the palate. At this point, texturally, the wine has shed the feral, slightly crunchy edge that young Jura whites can have; it’s all seamlessly sleek and spherical at this point. Just showed beautifully. From magnum.
2020 Domaine Labet Fleur de Savagnin: Big, bold, in-your-face rendition of Jura Savagnin with lots of yellow fruit and citrus on the palate. A bit more rough-n-tumble than the Ganevat wines, but this is also a lot younger. Great acidity, long finish, perhaps a little hint of vanilla from the barrel and a bit of oxidative nuttiness, but nonetheless, a heavy-hitter of a Jura white.
2019 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Varrons Vieilles Vignes: An aromatically lifted nose while the palate is quite crisp and silky with mouth-watering acidity that is already well-integrated, but lively enough to compel you to drink more. I’m getting flavors of tart lemon, white fruit, and a hint of lavender and cilantro. The finish is long, but subtle with just a touch of natty volatility and funk. Very light on its feet and well balanced. Not getting much vanilla or creaminess here: this is quite pure and the oak-influence is barely a whisper. While it does not have the concentration and energy of the '19 Chalasses, it also seems more approachable now with its seamless, elegant texture. This is cloudy, acid-driven lemonade for grown-ups.
2022 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Arbois Les Bruyères: A bit hefty and a touch polished, but balanced with nice acidity, a hint of oxidative funkiness, and just a kiss of oak to add a layer of complexity to the fresh-tasting citrus and white on the palate.
RED WINES
2014 Jean-François Ganevat Julien en Billat: This is a lovely example of a natural red wine with the classic hallmarks of semi-carbonic maceration: beautiful wild strawberries and watermelon on the nose with hints of green from the stems. Acidity is quite lively with hints of herbs and black pepper seasoning the crunchy red fruit. Juicy, fun, and dynamic on the palate (and low alcohol, which is a nice bonus). Pinot Noir.
2023 Jean-François Ganevat Pinot Noir En Billat: Wild strawberries, violets, and herbs on the nose. The palate has subtle red, brambly fruit, great acidity, and white pepper with bitter herbs. Light and silky in a carbonic way. Very tart on the finish.
2023 Domaine Morel - Les Pieds Sur Terre Poulsard En Boutasse: Pretty wild strawberries and florals on the nose, but also a bit lifted. Some volatility frames the delicate red fruit and herbs, but I would say it adds interest rather than detracts. Very refreshing and pure, though not overly complex and thought-provoking. A nice, glou-glou bistro wine.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Massale Les Varrons: No formal note, but this was really refined and elegant. Beautiful, wild strawberries on the nose intermingling with those distinctive floral, spiced, and slightly stemmy herbal aromas you get from whole clusters. Palate has juicy red fruit, acidity that is already well-integrated with just a touch of joyous crunch. A really nice example of natural pinot noir.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Clonale Les Varrons: I had this next to the selection massale, and while it shares a lot of similar characteristics (herbal, peppery, floral aromas, red-fruited palate), the acidity was a little punchier and texturally the wine was not as refined. Still quite good, but definitely a step down from the selection massale.
2020 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura Le Plou: Surprisingly dense and ripe for a Poulsard, I think the solar-nature of the vintage did this wine no favors. On opening, there is a lot of CO2 and crunchiness on the palate, but that does blow off with time, giving the wine a sleeker, more approachable texture. Interestingly herbal and dark-fruited, with a pleasing, subtle bitter grip on the finish from the tannins, but this seems just a touch too big and high-octane for me. It doesn’t have the delicacy and weightlessness I normally expect from a Jura Poulsard.
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Michel Autran Les Enfers Tranquilles 2023
Chenin, VdF from Vouvray
One of those affordable but highly elusive wines.
High acidity, bone dry, bursting with energy. Yellow apples, sweetie/oroblanco (!), a touch of honey, a not quite ripe pineapple, salty, chalky. A fine bottle.
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So many great bottles on that list!
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Yeah, it has been a fun past couple of months.