Fresh, tense, and intriguing Savagnin from Jura, France. The color is a slightly hazy medium gold. Was pretty linear at first with aromas of apples and confit lemons before showing more tropical fruit with notes of mango, grapefruit, and pineapple. Crisp acidity on the palate balanced out nicely with some fullness. Lemon, pineapple, minerals, and a hint of salt. Medium length finish.
This was my first encounter with one of Fabien Henriot’s wines and it was definitely a fun Savagnin. Far from anything I would have expected. I’m looking forward to trying his other Jura cuvées in the future.
This Savagnin is Fabien’s cuve version and was aged in dame-jeanne for two years I believe. He only produced 44 bottles of this micro-cuvée.
Formerly a Pouilly-Fumé, now a Vin de France. I don’t know if he opted out or was excluded, but it certainly doesn’t taste like a P-F!
On the nose, vibrant aromas of apricot, honey and yellow peach, then quite a rich attack of the same fruits, before a much drier wave of lemon, and a slightly oxidative finish. Not really for me.
Very much an acquired taste, his wines, of which I’ve tasted four in the last few months, always flirt with oxidised flavours, and two of the bottles tried were too oxidised to enjoy at all. I liked the energy and originality but could have done with more freshness.
I know he has his fans - each to their own!
It’s certainly an either or with his wines. Some bottles are on and some are off, but one thing that is a constant is the very ripe, late picked fruits with some oxy. I like 'em but never to the point where I wanted to stock up.
2020 Domaine Nicolas Faure Nuits St. Georges Les Herbues - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges (2/10/2026)
Nice nose of dark fruit, herbs, a just a hint of green stems. The palate is a bit plummy, but the texture is so sleek and silky, which finishes with just a hint of charcoal. Nice acidity and lift, and well-judged use of whole clusters. Really well done and enjoyable.
2018 Jean-François Ganevat Trousseau Plein Sud - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (2/10/2026)
Bright, but almost pinkish robe in the glass. Beautifully floral on the nose with aromas of crushed wild strawberries. The palate is also joyous crunchy red fruit girded with just enough VA and acidity to provide liveliness to the palate, but not over-the-top funk. Really a peak natty, glou-glou red in all the best ways.
2017 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Mélanie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly (2/10/2026)
I'm not normally the biggest Daniel Bouland fan, but this tasted pretty correct and lively. Fruit was a bit dark, but nicely crunchy with just a hint of green and sous bois to lend some complexity to the palate. Pretty good. From Jeroboam.
