We had a spectacular 20 yo Bordeaux retrospective back in 2020, when we had a large horizontal of 2000 Bordeaux wines. However, since then we didn’t have any 20 yo retrospectives, at least for a few years. Then again, I didn’t feel like I missed out on much - 2001 might’ve been nice, but I was fine with skipping the 2002 and 2003 vintages.
However, II was very happy that this year not just one but two different people decided to throw a 20 yo retrospective on 2004 Bordeaux wines! It’s not an exceptional vintage by any means, but they did make some very lovely wines that year that have stood wonderfully against the test of time, all the same. In this tasting we had a few duds, but as a whole, the lineup was solid and the highs were very high!
- 2017 Louis Vallon Crémant de Bordeaux Légende - France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux (2.2.2024)
The flaghsip cuvée of the house. Mainly Cabernet Franc and Sémillon with a little bit of Merlot and Muscadelle in the blend. Made with selected best batches of base wine. After the wine is blended and bottled, it is aged sur lattes for 36 months, then disgorged. 12% alcohol, 9 g/l residual sugar and 7,5 g/l acidity.
Pale, rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels ripe and fruit-forward with aromas of sweet red apple and juicy white peach, some leesy notes of yeast and a little bit of wet rock minerals. No toasty autolytic qualities, despite the 3 years of aging on the lees. The wine feels dry-ish, balanced and somewhat neutral on the palate with a medium body and somewhat understated flavors of fresh Fuji apple, some ripe whitecurrant notes, a little bit of yeasty autolysis and a hint of creamy custard. The rather high acidity keeps the wine pretty much in balance, but the relatively high dosage makes it come across as a bit round and mellow. The finish is dry-ish, somewhat linear and a bit simple with a medium-long aftertaste of fresh apple, some whitecurrant notes, light leesy tones, a little bit of juicy citrus fruit and a mineral hint of wet rocks.
A decent, somewhat linear everyday aperitif fizz. Nothing wrong here, just lacks all thrill and frill; comes across as pretty simple and harmless. A tiny bit lower dosage might help a little bit, but I'm not sure if even that would make the wine feel particularly memorable. Somewhat overpriced for the quality at 19,98€.
(84 points) - 2004 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (2.2.2024)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (88%) and Sémillon (12%). Fermented and aged for 18 months in oak barriques (35% new). 13% alcohol.
Pale lemon-yellow color. Surprisingly evolved, dry and woody nose with relatively little fruity qualities: there are aromas of savory wood and nuttiness, some beeswax, light sweeter notes of wizened yellow fruits, a little bit of mealy Golden Delicious apple and a hint of dried pineapple. The wine feels dry, evolved and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and quite tertiary flavors of mealy Golden Delicious apple and nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of wizened nectarine, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of beeswax. The acidity feels high, but somewhat lower than before. The finish is long dry and somewhat oily with flavors of waxy richness and mealy yellow apples, some nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of wizened nectarine, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of stony minerality and a dull touch of damp wool.
This wine feels moderately older and somewhat duller than the bottle we had a year ago. While still recognizable for the same wine, the overall feel is somewhat oilier and weightier and the fruit department has lost some of its energy and intensity. That previous bottle felt like a wonderful, classically styled Bordeaux Blanc at its peak, but this is starting to lose its freshness and luster, so I think this bottle is already slightly past its peak and now in a decline. This is still a thoroughly enjoyable and rewarding wine in its own right, but not nearly as good as this wine and this vintage can be when at its best.
(90 points) - 2004 Château Certan-Marzelle - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (2.2.2024)
100% Merlot from the 2-hectare vineyards in Pomerol. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and moderately opaque blackish-red color. Dull, dusty and slightly mildewy nose with vague dark-fruited notes in the background. The wine feels dense and moderately ripe on the palate with a rather full body and dull, muted flavors that don't really give anything beyond vague dusty TCA flavors. Moderately grippy tannins. Short, dull and unpleasant finish with rather grippy tannins.
Corked.
(NR/flawed) - 2004 La Dame de Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (2.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and Merlot (1/3). 13% alcohol.
Deep, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved dried-blood hue and a thin, pale rim. The nose feels pretty classically styled and quite attractive with aromas of wizened blackcurrants and dried plummy fruit, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of powdered paprika, mossy hints of forest floor and a touch of smoke. The wine feels dry, dense and firm yet quite silky on the palate with a medium body and moderately ripe flavors of dark forest fruits and crunchy redcurrants, some wizened plummy fruit, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings and a hint of forest floor. While pretty silky, the overall feel is still moderately chewy and extracted with the high acidity and still quite grippy tannins. The finish is dry, quite long and rather grippy with an intense aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and tart redcurrants, some dark plummy notes, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light notes of tobacco, a hint of earth and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A sophisticated, classically styled and attractive St. Estèphe. The wine doesn't feel young anymore, but it isn't in a decline either. I feel the firm tannic structure might continue to resolve and soften with additional age, but aromatically the wine is more or less at its peak now. If the wine isn't at its peak now, it will be sooner rather than later. Most likely the wine will keep for another decade or even two, but I don't see much need for additional aging. All in all, an impressive and thoroughly enjoyable 2nd wine.
(91 points)
- 2004 Château Clerc Milon - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (2.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (7%), Carmenère (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%) harvested between 29th of September and 15th of October. 13% alcohol.
Dark and slightly translucent garnet color that shows quite little age. The nose feels somewhat dark-toned and a little bit understated but also quite classically styled and attractive with aromas of sweet dark plummy fruit, some blackcurrant tones, a little bit of leafy herbaceous character, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of loose tobacco, a touch of bilberry and a toasty whiff of sweet mocha oak. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate, but also a bit hollow - although the wine doesn't come across as thin, it is lacking some oomph in the midpalate. The wine is medium in body with slightly restrained flavors of crunchy dark berries and gravelly minerality, some leafy herbaceous tones, a little bit of blood, light tart notes of crowberries and rowanberries, a hint of old leather saddle and a slightly bitter touch of chokeberry. The structure seems to rely more on the still moderately grippy and rather unresolved tannins than on the medium-plus acidity. The finish is dry, juicy and a bit underwhelming with a medium-long aftertaste of crowberries and fresh blackcurrants, some tart dark plum tones, a little bit of leafy herbaceous character, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of old leather.
A rather nice and moderately matured but also a bit underwhelming Pauillac. The firm tannic frame here is right on point, but the fruit department comes across as a bit meagre and the acidity feels a bit modest. On its own this is a decent Bordeaux that is not young nor particularly old, but in our tasting of 13 Bordeaux wines from the 2004 vintage, this was among the least impressive efforts.
(88 points) - 2004 Château Haut-Bailly - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (2.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) harvested between September 27th and October 18th. Aged for 15-18 months in French oak barriques (50% new). 12,5% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color that doesn't betray the wine's age. The nose feels quite open, moderately dark-toned and pretty classically-styled with aromas of ripe blackcurrants and dark plummy fruit, some saddle leather tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light leafy herbaceous tones - even minty or medicinal herb nuances - along with evolved hints of wizened dark fruits and a faint, funky touch of fried mushrooms. The wine feels firm, sinewy and moderately ripe on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of juicy dark fruits and wizened blackcurrants, some tart notes of fresh dark plums, a little bit of leathery funk, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of forest floor and a touch of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is pretty structured - but not as tough and angular than in its youth - with the high acidity and moderately resolved yet still somewhat grippy tannins. The finish is long, juicy and moderately grippy with a nuanced and quite intense aftertaste of wizened dark berries and crunchy dark plums, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of old leather, light earthy tones, herbaceous hints of minty herbs and leafy greenness and a developed touch of meaty umami.
A firm, quite intensely-flavored and rather chewy Bordeaux that seems to have benefited greatly from the aging (my previous TN on this wine was written +10 years ago!). The wine still retains good sense of tannic firmness, but the rather prominent oaky tones have integrated beautifully with the fruit; the tannins have resolved from rather tough to "just" firm and moderately grippy; and the focus seems to be mostly on the vibrant fruit flavors that still retain quite a bit of youthful energy, yet have developed some lovely evolved dried-fruit flavors along with more savory, meaty and leathery tertiary notes. Ten years ago I thought the wine was still too young and quite forbidding, but now the wine is drinking quite wonderfully - although there's enough fruit, structure and concentration to make the wine keep on aging for another ten years or even more. This is not a big, ripe and impactful wine, but instead a very balanced and classically styled Pessac-Léognan that offers nuanced finesse quite typical of the overlooked 2004 vintage. Good stuff, recommended.
(92 points) - 2004 Château Giscours - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (2.2.2024)
According to one source, this wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (3%); according to the website today, the wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%) and Merlot (42%), harvested between September 30th and October 16th. Fermented and macerated with the skins in concrete tanks and stainless steel tanks for 35 days. Aged for 12-15 months in French oak barriques (50% new). 13% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a little bit of brick-red hue towards the rim. The nose feels open, quite classically styled and rather savory with aromas of juicy blackcurrants and elderflowers, some crunchy dark berries, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, leafy hints of autumnal forest floor, a touch of soot and a sweeter, evolved whiff of wizened red fruits. The wine feels quite ripe yet rather dry and savory on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of fresh blackcurrants, juicy dark berries and crunchy dark fruits, some sweeter notes of wizened red berries, a little bit of tobacco and old leather, light woody notes of savory oak spice, an autumnal hint of leafy forest floor and a touch of stony minerality. The structure relies more on the high acidity, as the ample, powdery tannins are starting to feel moderately resolved - although they do slowly pile up on the tannins, adding some nice firmness to the mouthfeel. The long finish is juicy, nuanced and gently grippy with a savory and rather intense aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and tart dark fruits, some sweeter notes of wizened red fruits, a little bit of dried redcurrant, light earthy forest floor tones, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of old leather.
Although the wine doesn't feel young anymore, it doesn't show that much age, either - mostly some sweeter nuances of wizened red fruits, which serve as a nice counterpoint to the rather dry and savory overall flavor profile. The wine didn't seem that tannic when I tasted the wine 10 years ago - although the tannins were still quite astringent back then - but now the tannins have resolved quite nicely, mainly adding to the rich texture of the wine, while letting the high acidity take care of the structure. I said 10 years ago that "I wouldn't be surprised if the wine was still drinking nicely even 10-15 years from now" and I was right: I wasn't surprised that the wine is drinking nicely now. Especially the toasty oak notes, which were still quite prominent a decade ago, were wonderfully integrated with the other flavors now, retaining only those lighter woody notes in their place. The wine doesn't really call for any additional age, but seeing as it has mainly benefited from the aging; the wine still retains good sense of fruit; and there is still some tannic backbone left in the wine, I can imagine this wine will at least keep - if not improve - for yet another decade or two. A fine and thoroughly enjoyable Margaux red.
(93 points)
- 2004 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (2.2.2024)
Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and merlot (1/3) with tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Fermented in concrete tanks and tronconic oak vats. Aged for 16-18 months in new and once used barriques (typically 50% and 50%). 13% alcohol.
Rather deep, quite opaque and still surprisingly youthful dark plummy red color. The seductive nose feels moderately ripe yet still pretty dry and savory with complex, classically styled aromas of juicy blackcurrants, some oaky notes of cedar and pencil shavings, light evolved meaty tones and balsamic nuances, a little bit of wizened dark berry, a hint of old leather, a sweet touch of toasty oak spice and a whiff of sous-bois. The wine feels rather ripe, still quite youthful and relatively fruit-forward on the palate - without any overt sweetness. The wine comes across as medium-bodied with intense flavors of juicy blackcurrants and dark forest fruits, some fresh cherry tones, a little bit of old leather, light oaky notes of cedar and pencil shavings, a herbaceous hint of leafy greenness and a sweeter touch of soft red plum. The combination of high acidity and still moderately grippy and relatively unresolved tannins make the wine still come across as pretty stern and tightly-knit. The finish is long, juicy and quite grippy with a dry, intensely-flavored aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and bilberries, some sour red plum tones, a little bit of fresh red cherry, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of old leather and a touch of leafy greenness.
A clean, intensely-flavored and tasty Pauillac that feels surprisingly bold and concentrated for a 2004 Bordeaux - even though the wine doesn't show as much weight and ripeness as the surrounding warmer vintages 2003 and 2005, the wine still sports impressive amount of depth, flavor intensity and structure. With its dry and rather stern overall feel along with vaguely herbaceous undertones, the wine feels quite classically styled and not one bit too modern or polished. Qualitatively the wine was pretty much on par with the equally impressive 2004 Beychevelle, but whereas that Becyhevelle felt like it was noticeably closer to its plateau of maturity, this Pontet-Canet felt like it could not only keep but also evolve and improve effortlessly for another decade or even more. A very complete wine that is still some ways away from its apogee. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2004 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (2.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (46%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot (5%) harvested between September 30th and October 16th. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (50% new). 13% alcohol.
Quite deep and moderately opaque dark plummy red color. The nose feels dry and even somewhat earthy but also still quite open and characterful with expressive aromas of fresh blackcurrants and sweet blueberries, damp earth, some developed meaty tones, a little bit of sweet nutmeg-driven spice, light woody notes of savory old oak, a hint of juicy raspberry-driven red fruit and a touch of leafy forest floor. The wine feels silky, focused and more youthful on the palate than the nose led to expect with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants and black cherries, some juicy raspberry tones, a little bit of leafy forest floor and licorice root, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a developed hint of meat stew and a touch of fresh bilberry. The acidity feels high whereas the resolved medium tannins contribute more to the texture and only slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, long and somewhat grippy with an intense aftertaste of ripe black raspberries and blackcurrants, some savory oak spice, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of fresh cherry, a hint of forest floor and a touch of stony minerals.
A sophisticated, delicious and beautifully developed St. Julien. Tasting this next to 2004 Pontet-Canet, this Beychevelle seemed more evolved and resolved, showing somewhat more developed flavors and aromatics and much more resolved tannic structure. The nose felt relatively mature, but on the palate the wine did come across as more youthful and not nearly as developed as the nose. Structurally the wine feels quite resolved and harmonious, not really calling for any additional aging, but flavor-wise the wine can evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more. Most likely the wine evolve a little bit more from here and keep for another decade or two, but it is in a darn good spot right now. Terrific stuff, highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2004 Château Gazin Pomerol - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (2.2.2024)
According to the winery, the wine is a blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (5%), bringing the total amount of grapes in the wine to a standard 105% Bordeaux blend. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (50% new). 13% alcohol. Total production 93,000 bottles.
Rather opaque and moderately evolved blackish-red color with a developed dried-blood hue. The nose feels a bit offbeat with aromas of old furniture and dusty notes of turmeric along with notes of wizened chokeberries and ripe dark damsons, some fried mushroom tones, light oaky notes of cedar and dusty old wood, autumnal hints of leafy forest floor, a touch of leathery funk and a herbaceous whiff of chopped green chili. The wine feels juicy, moderately ripe and rather fruit-driven on the palate with a quite full body and vibrant flavors of fresh red plums and wizened dark plums, some autumnal notes of earth and damp leaves, a little bit of ripe dark damson, light fired mushroom tones, floral hints of violets and dried flowers and a touch of toasty oak spice. The mouthfeel is a bit on the round and soft side, thanks to the medium-plus acidity - although the ample and still quite grippy tannins bring some welcome firmness to the palate. The finish is dark-toned, still quite grippy and subtly sweet-toned with a long aftertaste of dark plummy fruit and juicy red fruits, some autumnal notes of leafy forest floor, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light leathery tones, a hint of licorice root and a sweeter touch of toasty mocha oak.
A characterful Pomerol that feels stylistically quite different to the other (mostly Left-Bank) wines in our tasting of thirteen 2004 Bordeaux wines. As one would expect from a Merlot-driven wine, the wine feels more plummy and slightly lower in acidity than the more Cab-driven wines, but the wine is also surprisingly tannic - more grippy than a good deal of the Left-Bank wines we tasted - and has some quite distinctive aromatics as well. Furthermore, even if the wine isn't that tertiary yet, it feels aromatically somewhat more evolved than many of the Left-Bank wines in our tasting, yet the tannins feel less resolved and the new oak aromatics feel less integrated than in the other wines. Perhaps the wine could improve a little bit more with additional aging, if its tannins continued to soften and the oaky aromatics integrated a little bit better with the fruit. Other than that, this wine is quite close to its plateau of maturity. In its own right, this was a thoroughly enjoyable and quite impressive 2004 Pomerol, but still not quite at the same level with the best 2004 Left-Bank wines we had in the tasting. Drink or keep.
(92 points)
- 2004 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (2.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) harvested between September 27th and October 18th. Aged for 15 months in French oak barriques (80% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Dense, slightly evolved and very deep dark red color with an almost black core and a wide, translucent, cherry-red rim. The brooding nose feels dark-toned and, at first, somewhat restrained yet still wonderfully nuanced with intermingling aromas of ripe blackcurrants and bilberries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light smoky nuances, woody hints of cedar and pencil shavings, a touch of dark plummy fruit and a whiff of roasted bell pepper. With air, the nose opens up and gains some intensity. The wine feels quite ripe and concentrated on the palate, but despite the medium-to-moderately full body, the overall feel is not that weighty, but instead pretty airy and relatively light on its feet. There are intense flavors of juicy blackcurrants and black cherries, some notes of cedar and toasty oak spice, light plummy tones, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, a hint of pipe tobacco and a sweet touch of roasted bell pepper. The overall feel is harmonious and quite suave, but also firmly structured, thanks to the quite high acidity and ample, ripe tannins that don't feel tough or aggressive, but still make the wine feel pretty grippy. The finish is long, juicy and quite grippy with an intense, dark-toned aftertaste of ripe black raspberries and blackcurrants, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light woody notes of cedar and savory oak spice, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of smoky character.
True to the Pichon-Baron style, the wine is pretty firm, stern and dead-serious effort for a 2004 Bordeaux. However, even if the wine seems to show a bit more body and ripeness than most of the wines we tasted in our tasting of thirteen 2004 Bordeaux wines, the wine is also surprisingly elegant and airy at the same time, showing wonderful sense of harmony. Of the thirteen wines we tasted, this was among the most youthful bottles, showing very little if any sense of age despite being almost 20 years old! With its vibrant, ripe yet dry fruit department and firm, tightly-knit structure, I'm sure this wine will continue to evolve and improve easily for another decade - perhaps even several. Although the wine didn't seem particularly oaky now, it did show some toasty qualities - which I hope will integrate better with the fruit as the wine continues to age. Definitely one of the best wines in the tasting. Terrific stuff, very highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2004 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (2.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (42%) and Cabernet Franc (3%), harvested between September 16th and October 6th. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (74% new). 13% alcohol.
Quite dense, dark and rather opaque pomegranate color with a translucent cherry-red rim. The nose feels ripe and very classically styled but also a bit reticent with brooding, slightly understated aromas of cassis and woody pencil shavings, some exotic spices, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light brambly notes of black raspberries, oaky hints of cedar and toasty mocha oak, a touch of pipe tobacco and a whiff of autumnal leaves. The wine feels firm, focused and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense, layered flavors of juicy blackcurrants and fresh black raspberries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light oaky notes of sweet toasty spice and pencil shavings, an autumnal hint of leafy forest floor and a touch of coffee. The overall feel is quite muscular with the high acidity and assertive, tightly-knit tannins. The finish is long, stern and rather tannic with a layered, intensely-flavored aftertaste of ripe black raspberries and juicy blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light oaky notes of toasted wood and coffee, a sweeter hint of dark plummy fruit and a savory touch of developed meaty character.
An excellent, dead-serious and surprisingly impressive effort for a 2004 Bordeaux. The nose was nuanced and classically styled, but as it seemed rather understated, it didn't promise that much to begin with. However, even if the wine isn't that big or weighty, it showed probably more sense of concentration and flavor intensity than any other wine in our tasting of thirteen 2004 Bordeaux wines. With the similarly impressive 2004 Pichon-Longueville Baron, I'd say these two wines were the winners of the evening for me. That Pichon-Baron was still exceptionally youthful, promising probably even more aging potential than this La Mission, but conversely LMHB showed a bit more evolved depth and complexity, which - along with its impressively stern and still very tightly-wound, unresolved structure - made it ultimately feel a tiny bit more impressive now. It's hard to assess which wine will ultimately reach higher highs once they reach their apogee, but it's safe to say these both wines are still miles away from their respective peaks. I'd say that, at the moment, this is the best 2004 Bordeaux I've tasted. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) - 2004 Tertre Rôteboeuf - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (2.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (about 90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%), harvested very late, when the grapes are borderline overripe. Fermented in concrete vats at very high temperatures. Aged in French oak barriques (100%) at relatively high temperatures for 18 to 24 months. 14% alcohol. Bottle #8878.
Evolved, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a tertiary brownish hue. The nose feels evolved, sweetish and somewhat oxidative with aromas of beef jerky and pungent soy sauce, some raisiny dark fruit, a little bit of earth, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a sweet hint of raspberry jam and a touch of tobacco. The wine feels dense, moderately tertiary and quite chewy on the palate with a full body and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of raisiny dark fruit and wizened ripe figs, some overripe plummy fruit, a little bit of beef jerky, light toasty oak notes of milk chocolate, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and an autumnal touch of forest floor. Despite the elevated ripeness and sweet-toned fruit, the overall feel is pretty firm and structured with the rather high acidity and still quite grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, quite grippy and slightly warm with a rather tertiary and somewhat oxidative aftertaste of juicy dark plums and wizened dark berries, some oxidative notes of soy sauce, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, a hint of earth and a touch of jammy red fruit. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the aftertaste.
I'm not sure whether we had a bottle that was prematurely oxidized or if Tertre Rôteboeuf just isn't made to age this long. All I know the style is super-ripe and heavily oaked by aging the wine in new oak barriques at high temperatures for a long time - both of which are winemaking choices which don't usually translate to good ageability. The wine seemed not only much more evolved than any other wine in our tasting of thirteen 2004 Bordeaux wines, but also noticeably more ripe with its fuller and weightier body, rather sweet-toned fruit flavors and higher level of alcohol. Although the alcohol isn't at the level of many St. Émilions of today (which can clock in at around 15,5%!), the aftertaste here seemed so much warmer than in any other wine that I wonder if the wine is higher in alcohol than the label's 14%? Although I'm not sure if the wine was in sound condition, I'm not sure if I would've enjoyed the wine even if it weren't this oxidative. I must admit that the wine sports a surprisingly firm and fresh structure for the ripeness, but otherwise the style is so far removed from the classic, dry and sinewy style of Bordeaux I enjoy that I find it hard to find any real redeeming qualities from this wine. This caricature of an overripe St. Émilion just isn't my cup of tea, not at all.
(84 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
