This is the part two of our 20-yo Bordeaux retrospective; you can check out the first one from here.
As I explained in my report on part 1, we originally had a terrific 20 yo retrospective on 2000, but then nothing for 2001, 2002 or 2003. Well, now we’re taking something back as we didn’t just one but instead two different retrospective tastings! And, surprisingly, even if they were arranged by two different people, we didn’t really have problems with overlap!
And, as almost always, we also had a healthy amount of blind extras after the tasting proper.
The main lineup:
The extras (plus one blockbuster Portugieser that we forgot to include here):
- 2004 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc - France, Bordeaux (6.4.2024)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard the commune of Sousans. Whole bunch pressed. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, aged in French oak barriques (1/3 new) for approximately 8 months. 14,5% alcohol.
Luminous and surprisingly youthful, pale lemon-yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels a bit closed at first, then starts to open, slowly revealing somewhat evolved and a bit odd aromas of mushroomy funk and ripe white currants, some grassy greenness, light musty notes of damp wool, a little bit of lemongrass, sweet hints of wizened yellow fruits and honeycomb, a touch of creamy oak and a faint whiff of pine cones. The wine feels ripe, somewhat heavy and a bit ponderous on the palate with a full body and rich, evolved flavors of honey and apple jam, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light crunchy notes of white currants, a hint of grassy greenness and a touch of woolly lanolin. The medium acidity feels a bit inadequate to bring good sense of freshness to the wine, but it does keep the wine somewhat in balance. The finish is long, rich and somewhat evolved with layered flavors of lemongrass and wizened yellow fruits, some salty minerality, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of woolly lanolin, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of dried pineapple.
At first the wine was so closed with just some musty funky tones that we wondered if the wine was corked or otherwise just off. However, with aeration the wine opened up and lost a good deal of its funk, so I guess it was just quite evolved with some atypical tertiary notes. I kinda expected the wine to show some freshness and precision as it is known to be 100% Sauvignon Blanc, but I was surprised to learn the wine was clocking in at 14,5% ABV with a quite modest level of acidity and sporting quite a big and weighty body. Although the wine showed some developed complexity, I must say the overall feel was pretty clumsy and heavy. Nobody seemed to be particularly impressed - even if the wine was among the most expensive wines in the tasting at the price of approximately 150€. Not really worth it, I must say.
(87 points) - 2004 Château Lafon-Rochet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (6.4.2024)
A lend of Merlot (51%), Cabernet Sauvignon (46%) and Cabernet Franc (3%). 13% alcohol, 5.2 g/l acidity and pH 3,65.
Slightly translucent and somewhat evolved figgy color. The nose feels savory, quite classically styled and still relatively youthful with layered aromas of pipe tobacco and ripe blackcurrant, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light plummy tones, a little bit of forest floor, a hint of blueberry juice and a touch of black cherry. The wine feels dry, juicy and a bit tough on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of fresh blackcurrants and gravelly minerality, some tobacco, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light crunchy notes of tart red plums and fresh bilberries, a hint of forest floor and a sanguine touch of iron. The overall feel is a far cry from a crowdpleaser - not only due to the dry, somewhat tart and slightly bitter flavors, but in part thanks to the high acidity and assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is long, quite youthful and pretty tannic with a savory aftertaste of red plums and sour cherries, some tobacco, light earthy notes, a little bit of blood, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of ripe blackcurrant.
A tasty, classically styled and still very stern Bordeaux that is quite unapologetic with its somewhat tough, take-no-prisoners expression. This is Bordeaux exactly the way I like them - dry, crunchy and framed with ample tannins! Seeing how the overall feel is still surprisingly youthful for the age and the structure shows relatively little resolution, I'm positive this wine will continue to age and improve for many more years - perhaps even decades. At 50€ this is superb value.
(93 points) - 2004 Château d'Issan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (6.4.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) harvested between September 27th and October 15th, 2004. Aged in French oak barriques (55% new) for 16 months, bottled in late March 2006. 12,9% alcohol, 5,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,68.
Somewhat translucent, medium-deep and slightly evolved pomegranate color. The nose feels expressive and somewhat rustic with complex aromas of tobacco and leathery funk, some wizened dark berries, a little bit of bretty barnyard, light autumnal notes of leafy forest floor, a hint of ripe blackcurrant and a woody touch of cedar. The wine feels silky, open-knit and moderately evolved on the palate with a medium body and nuanced flavors of wizened blackcurrants and leathery funk, some bretty notes of barnyard, a little bit of dried figs, light nuances of pipe tobacco, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of autumnal leaves. The overall feel isn't particularly old - nor young anymore with a firm and balanced structure, thanks to the moderately high acidity and ample yet ripe and quite supple tannins that contribute more to the texture than to the structure. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and nuanced with a dry, rustic aftertaste of leathery funk and smoky phenolic tones, some bretty notes of stable floor, a little bit of ripe blackcurrant and other dark berries, light autumnal nuances of leafy forest floor, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of dried figs.
A pleasantly evolved and enjoyably rustic Bordeaux with somewhat noticeable - yet not overwhelming - presence of bretty funk that complements the more savory tertiary nuances beautifully. The wine is gradually approaching its plateau of maturity and I feel any additional evolution and improvement is going to be pretty limited. However, that doesn't mean there is any hurry with this wine - most likely this will stay on its plateau of maturity for many, many years more. A thoroughly enjoyable and harmonious Margaux claret at full maturity. Getting maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 76€, though.
(92 points) - 2004 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (6.4.2024)
Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and merlot (1/3) with tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Fermented in concrete tanks and tronconic oak vats. Aged for 16-18 months in new and once used barriques (typically 50% and 50%). 13% alcohol.
Quite dense and more or less fully opaque black cherry color with a thin, translucent rim. The nose feels moderately ripe, vibrant and attractive with complex, classically styled aromas of sweet cherries and wizened blackcurrants, some exotic spices, light toasty wood nuances, a little bit of fresh bilberry, woody hints of cedar and pencil shavings, a touch of forest floor and a whiff of old leather. The wine feels dry, tightly-knit and slightly extracted on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of red plums and sour cherries, some woody notes of cedar, a little bit of exotic spice, light sweeter nuances of bilberries and juicy blackcurrants, a herbaceous hint of leafy greenness and a touch of old leather. The overall feel is rather tough and structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and stern, still rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and intensely flavored with a long, layered aftertaste of wizened figs and dark plummy fruit, some blueberries and ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a herbaceous hint of leafy greenness and a touch of old leather.
This is an excellent, still relatively youthful and impressively tightly-knit Pauillac red that feels surprisingly ripe, concentrated and punchy for a 2004 Bordeaux. To me, this bottle was more or less identical to the similarly impressive bottle we had just a few months earlier. Seeing how youthful and tightly-knit the wine is, I can see it evolving and improving easily for at least another decade - perhaps even several. This wine will make beautiful old bones. Priced according to its quality at 75€. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2004 Château Latour Les Forts de Latour - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (6.4.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (74%) and Merlot (26%). Aged in oak barriques. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, slightly translucent and quite dark cherry red color. The nose feels clean, classically styled and a bit restrained with quite youthful aromas of red-toned fruit, some juicy red plums, a little bit of boysenberry, light woody notes of cedar, a hint of pipe tobacco and a floral touch of violets. The wine feels dense, ripe and silky on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of juicy dark fruits, some fresh bilberry tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light boysenberry tones, a woody hint of cedar and a touch of crunchy red plum. The structure relies more on the medium-to-moderately high acidity than on the supple and quite gentle medium-minus tannins. The finish is youthful, soft and silky with a little bit of tannic grip and a long aftertaste of sweet red plums, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light woody notes of pencil shavings and a hint of strawberry.
An attractive, vibrant and still surprisingly youthful Bordeaux that is very approachable due to its rich, fruit-driven overall style and quite supple and mellow structure. In our tasting of 2004 Bordeaux, you could easily see that - unlike other wines we tasted - this was a 2nd wine: most other wines seemed to pack a lot more intensity and structure, whereas this wine felt noticeably softer and less conspicuous. It was obvious that the prime fruit was used for the grand vin and the fruit that yielded a softer, more fruit-forward wine went here. Sure, it's impressive how youthful and vibrant the wine is now, at 20 years of age, and I'm quite sure the wine will continue to age gracefully for many more years - decades, even! However, I'm not quite sure if this wine will turn into anything exceptional with additional aging. Feels extremely overpriced for the quality at 150€.
(90 points) - 2004 Château Saint-Pierre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (6.4.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified at Château Gloria. Fermented in stainless steel, aged for approximately 15 months in French oak barriques (50% new). 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, dark and rather opaque maroon color with a tertiary syrupy-brown hue. The nose feels pruney, old and moderately oxidative with aromas of loose tobacco and raisins, some dried figs, light juicy notes of bilberries and strawberries, a little bit of earth, a hint of old leather and a touch of something vaguely smoky. The wine feels aged, silky and somewhat tired on the palate with a medium body and tertiary flavors of prunes and leather, some salt-cured beef, light earthy tones, a little bit of dried blackcurrant, a hint of something smoky and a touch of raisiny dark fruit. Despite the aged overall feel, the wine is still pretty stern and tightly-knit with its high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is old, quite grippy and somewhat tired with a rather long aftertaste of prunes and raisiny dark fruit, some wizened blackcurrants, light earthy tones, a little bit of beef jerky, a hint of forest floor and a sweet touch of ripe black cherry.
I guess this bottle was a dud as it was obviously past its peak and turning rather oxidative - which is not described in any of the other recent notes in CT. Most likely this wine wasn't showing as it should've. A pity. 65€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) - 2004 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (6.4.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (23%) and Cabernet Franc (2%) harvested between September 30th and October 11th, 2004. Fermented and macerated for 3 weeks in stainless steel tanks. Aged in French oak barriques (60% new) for 16-18 months. 13% alcohol.
Deep and slightly translucent black cherry color that doesn't look young nor particularly evolved. The nose, on the other hand, feels surprisingly youthful and fruit-driven for the age with attractive, nuanced aromas of blueberries and ripe blackcurrants, some woody notes of cedar, a little bit of plum liqueur, light strawberry tones, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of licorice wine gums. The wine feels ripe, juicy and somewhat extracted on the palate with a moderately full body and intense, complex flavors of fresh blackcurrants and crunchy red plums, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of leathery funk, light woody notes of pencil shavings, savory hints of loose tobacco and meaty umami and a sweeter touch of black cherry. The overall feel is still remarkably firm, muscular and tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and ample, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is long, grippy and juicy with a rich, intensely-flavored aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and black cherries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light savory notes of meaty umami, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of sweet bilberries.
A very impressive, stern and concentrated vintage of Léoville-Barton that is surprisingly rich, ripe and powerful for the 2004 vintage - this cloudy and wet year of high yields wasn't particularly known wines of ripeness or concentration! Yet still, this wine manages to combine the freshness and high acidity of a cooler vintage with a surprisingly high (but not excessive) level of ripeness and flavor intensity, not showing any dilute qualities from the summer and autumn rains. Furthermore, the wine is remarkably youthful and vibrant for a Bordeaux clocking in at 20 years of age; it is easy to see this wine will continue to age and improve effortlessly for years - probably even decades - more. In our 2004 horizontal Bordeaux tasting this wine stood a good head taller than most of the other wines we tasted. Probably the best 2004 Bordeaux I've tasted - 2004 LMHB probably the closest competitor. Exceptional stuff. Not the most affordable wine out there at 80€, but delivers for the price.
(95 points) - 2004 Château Léoville Poyferré - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (6.4.2024)
Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and Merlot (1/3) with a little bit of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in the mix. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (50-75% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, slightly translucent and still surprisingly youthful black ruby color. The nose feels savory and quite classically styled but also somewhat understated with aromas of crunchy blackcurrants and fresh dark plums, some tobacco, light herbaceous notes of bell pepper and leafy greenness, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a faint fragrant touch of floral character. The overall feel is attractive but somewhat restrained. The wine feels silky, harmonious and open-knit on the palate with a moderately full body and slightly understated flavors of sweet dark plums and tobacco, some gravelly mineral notes, light herbaceous notes of bell pepper, a little bit meaty umami, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of fresh blueberry. The combination of moderately high acidity and still rather grippy tannins make the wine feel firm and balanced yet not tough or aggressive. The finish is long, firm and rather grippy with a balanced, savory aftertaste of blueberries and fresh blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light herbaceous notes of roasted bell pepper, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a sweeter hint of dark plummy fruit and a touch of leafy sous-bois.
A harmonious, tasty and quite classically styled Bordeaux. Typical of the 2004 vintage, the wine is maybe a bit understated and not as tightly-knit as the top vintages, but the combination of balanced structure and nice, subtly herbaceous undertones all make up for it. Although the wine isn't particularly impressive now - and probably won't ever be, no matter how long it is aged - it is still surprisingly youthful for its age and I'm pretty sure the wine will continue to benefit from additional aging. Thoroughly enjoyable stuff. Maybe getting a bit pricey for the quality at 80€, though.
(92 points) - 2004 Château Pavie Macquin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (6.4.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Merlot (75%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). Fermented and macerated with the skins for approximately 30 days. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Very deep and dark blackish maroon color. The nose feels old, oxidative and meaty with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some sausagey tones, a little bit of minty greenness, light sweet pruney nuances, a hint of meat stew and a touch of barbecue spices. The wine feels very evolved, tertiary and somewhat oxidative on the palate with a full body and rich, aged flavors of wizened dark fruits, some meaty notes of chorizo, a little bit of meat stew, light dried-fruit notes of prunes and raisins, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of damp earth. The structure relies more on the moderately high acidity than on the resolved, silky and quite soft tannins. The rather long finish is a bit more grippy with a savory and somewhat oxidative aftertaste of prunes and wizened dark berries, some beef jerky tones, a little bit of soy sauce, light sausagey nuances of chorizo, a hint of tobacco and a touch of meat stew.
While not completely in pieces yet, this wine is obviously going downhill now. Some people in the tasting enjoyed the tertiary qualities of this wine, but to me, this was not on par with the other 2004 Bordeaux wines we tasted but already turning somewhat oxidative. It's possible that our bottle wasn't in optimal shape, but it was an en-primeur purchase that has been in the same cellar as the other 2004 bottles we tasted, so at least there wasn't any problems with the provenance. All in all this was a disappointment and definitely not worth the price at 70€.
(84 points) - 2004 Château Belair - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (6.4.2024)
A blend of Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%). Aged for 15-18 months in French oak barriques. 12,5% alcohol.
Translucent, somewhat evolved maroon color with a pale rim. The nose feels very classically styled with attractive aromas of ripe red plums and fresh bilberries, some blackcurrant tones, a little bit of herbaceous leafy character, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a sweeter hint of brooding toasty oak, a faint touch of minty greenness and a whiff of developed meaty character. The wine feels dry, silky and somewhat evolved on the palate with a medium body and attractive flavors of ripe redcurrants and fresh red plums, some salty beef jerky tones, a little bit of tart crowberry and crunchy cranberry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of loose tobacco and a woody touch of cigar box. The overall feel is very firm and quite structure-driven yet not tough or angular, thanks to the quite high acidity and the moderately grippy tannins that show relatively little resolution. The finish is long, savory and moderately grippy with a layered aftertaste of fresh red plums, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of crunchy blackcurrant and crowberry, light minty green nuances, a hint of sous-bois and a sweeter touch of toasty oak spice.
A tasty, quite classically styled and balanced St. Émilion. Nothing particularly striking or memorable, but nothing to complain, either. The age is starting to show a little bit, but as a whole, I think the wine is still some ways away from its apogee and I can see this benefiting from additional aging - although the wine doesn't call for any additional aging as it is in a terrific spot already now. A pleasant and balanced wine - although perhaps a tiny bit on the pricey side for its quality at 62€.
(91 points) - 2004 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (6.4.2024)
A blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Typically aged in oak barriques (approx. 75% new) for 18-24 months. 14% alcohol.
Quite deep and almost fully opaque black cherry color with a somewhat evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feel dark-toned, a bit reticent and slightly evolved with aromas of sweet blackcurrants and juicy bilberries, some fresh notes of red plums, a little bit of developed meaty character, light wood notes of pencil shavings and toasty oak spice, a floral hint of violets, a touch of brambly black raspberries and a whiff of forest floor. The wine feels surprisingly tough and extracted on the palate with a full body and dry flavors of gravelly minerality and tart red plums, some extracted woody bitterness, a little bit of crunchy cranberry and fresh bilberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, a sweeter hint of ripe dark plum and a touch of toasty oak spice. The medium-plus acidity is a bit on the soft side - unlike the extracted, assertive, take-no-prisoners tannins that are still very grippy and show no sense of resolution. The finish is dry, tough and noticeably grippy with a long, somewhat extracted aftertaste of tart cranberries and red plums, some extracted woody bitterness, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, sweeter hints of dark plums and blueberries and a touch of toasty oak spice.
I was a bit surprised by this wine; I had tasted this same wine just a few months ago and back then it felt much more modern in style with a somewhat pronounced streak of glossy new oak. Although the wine showed some new oak qualities this time, too, the overall oak impact was much more modest in comparison - perhaps showing some development? Conversely, the tannins seemed much more pronounced this time around: this wine was by far the most tannic wine in our tasting of 2004 Bordeaux, feeling much more tannic and grippy than many a Barolo, Madiran or Sagrantino I've tasted! These tannins really screamed for food, because the wine was quite forbiddingly tough and grippy on its own. Although the aggressive tannic structure made the wine a bit tough and angular, I still enjoyed this wine a bit more than the slightly softer and somewhat more oaky bottle a few months ago. Still, perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 70€.
(92 points) - 2004 Château Trotanoy - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (6.4.2024)
A blend of Merlot (90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Aged for 18-20 months in French oak barriques (50-60% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Evolved, somewhat tertiary and moderately translucent maroon color with a deep cherry-red core. The nose feels evolved, somewhat closed but still quite classically styled with fine-tuned aromas of dark fruits, some soot and charcoal, a little bit of wizened red cherry, light tertiary notes of pipe tobacco and meat stew, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of old leather. The wine feels rich, chewy and textural on the palate with a full body and complex, somewhat developed flavors of wizened dark fruits and old leather, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sweet black cherry and blueberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of pipe tobacco and a woody touch of cedar. The overall feel is quite stern and structure-driven with the rather high acidity and bold, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is rich and ripe yet still dry, firm and grippy with a long, savory aftertaste of juicy red plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tobacco, light evolved notes of old leather and meat stew, a woody hint of cedar and a touch of fresh blueberry.
Compared to many 2004 Left-Bank reds in our tasting, this Pomerol felt relatively evolved in comparison, showing already some tertiary notes of leather, tobacco and meat stew. However, the wine didn't seem to be too old at any point - and, conversely, the tannic structure showed very little resolution, making the wine come across as noticeably tough and astringent. I was a bit bummed because of the rather understated nose; the aromatics were attractive and pretty much on point, but lacking the intensity that the flavors showed on the palate. All in all, this was a pretty impressive effort for Trotanoy - especially for the lesser vintage - and seeing how the wine is already starting to show some age, I think the wine doesn't really call for any additional aging. Most likely the wine won't fall apart anytime soon, but I guess any flavor development is going to be quite limited. Furthermore, I suspect the tannins are going to outlive the fruit quite easily - I doubt they are going to resolve anytime soon if they are still so assertive after 20 years! Finally, despite being a pretty impressive wine in its own right, I really don't think the wine was worth the 150€. Not even half of that.
(93 points) - 2004 Vieux Château Certan - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (6.4.2024)
A blend of Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) harvested between September 20th and October 6th, 2004. Aged in new French oak barriques for 18 months. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and slightly evolved pomegranate color. The open nose feels rich and sweet-toned but also slightly lactic with still quite youthful aromas of ripe strawberries and marmaladey red fruit along with some sweet, creamy notes of diacetyl, a little bit of wizened red cherry, light leathery tones, darker-toned hints of bilberries and dark plums, a woody hint of cedar and a touch of exotic spices. The wine feels ripe, open and slightly extracted on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of juicy red plums and gravelly minerality, some crunchy redcurrants, a little bit of blueberry, light sweeter notes of wizened black cherries, a lactic hint of creamy diacetyl and a touch of exotic spices. The overall feel is firm and rather structure-driven with the quite high acidity and ample, rather grippy tannins. The finish is bold, long and quite grippy with an intense aftertaste of blueberries and red plums, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of creamy diacetyl, light gravelly mineral tones, a developed hint of meaty umami and a touch of cedar.
An impressive, powerful and structured Pomerol with lots of fruit, depth and muscle. The wine was one of the most impressive wines in our tasting of 2004 Bordeaux - and it might've been even more impressive, had it not suffered from a minor streak of diacetyl, which added a somewhat odd, creamy dimension to the aromas and flavors. I have no idea if this character is common to all 2004 VCC:s, or if our bottle was slightly off, so it's hard to say anything conclusive about this quality. Apart from that, the wine seemed still very youthful and vibrant; with its flavor intensity and firm structure, I'm sure the wine will continue to evolve and improve for at least another decade, if not several. Despite its shortcomings, this has been one of the best 2004 Bordeaux wines I've tasted. But even if this wine is good, I'm not fully convinced this is 150€ good...
(94 points)
The extras:
- 1998 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi Selve di Luoti - Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG (6.4.2024)
A single-vineyard Taurasi that has been produced only in those few years the vineyard has produced enough fruit - otherwise the fruit goes into the regular Taurasi. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, rather opaque and quite maroon color with a thin pale rim. The nose feels very evolved, even quite old, and somewhat pruney with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some smoky and earthy overtones, a little bit of sour cherry, light minty nuances, a hint of wood spice and a touch of dried forest fruits, The wine feels savory, chewy and rather pruney on the palate with a moderately full body and quite intense but also pretty tertiary flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of bittersweet dark chocolate, light woody nuances, a hint of dried figs and a touch of something smoky. The overall feel is pretty robust and muscular, thanks to the quite high acidity and ample, still relatively grippy tannins. The finish is long, tertiary and grippy with an intense aftertaste of tobacco and prunes, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light smoky nuances, a bittersweet hint of dark chocolate and a touch of wizened black cherry.
An impressive blockbuster Taurasi that has lost most of its oak and sheen with age - yet has lost very little of its formidable tannic grip. The 1997 vintage of this same wine was in a terrific spot some 5-6 years ago, but I feel this 1998 has now been on its plateau of maturity for some time and is getting so tertiary that the wine is either starting to go downhill soon, or is in a decline already now. Nevertheless, this is still a very impressive and enjoyable effort from the robust, punchy and muscular end of the spectrum. Drink sooner rather than later.
(91 points) - 2021 Thymiopoulos Alta Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (6.4.2024)
100% Xinomavro from multiple parcels around the village of Fytia. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, macerated with the skins for 2½ to 3 weeks. Aged for 8 months in French oak vats. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Limpid, translucent and quite pale raspberry-red color. The fragrant nose feels very attractive with quite sweet aromas of strawberries and rose hips, some savory spices, light cherry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry and a hint of floral spice. The wine feels lively, dry and playful on the palate with a rather light body and quite intense and crunchy flavors of tart cranberries ripe wild strawberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of raspberry juice, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of violets. Structurally the wine feels pretty firm and angular with its medium-to-moderately high acidity and quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is fresh, crunchy and quite noticeably grippy with a long, fresh aftertaste of wild strawberries and brambly raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light floral notes of roses and violets, a little bit of peppery spice and a hint of gravelly minerality.
A wonderfully fresh, sophisticated and tasty Xinomavro from the lighter end. The guesses ranged from Etna to mountain Garnacha and from Jura to Alto Piemonte before we got Xinomavro correct. Great stuff. As the wine is still very youthful and tightly-knit, it doesn't really offer its full potential now, but it is nevertheless open for business already - at least if paired with something hearty enough that can help to soften those firm, stern tannins. Terrific stuff, much better than the somewhat awkward 2016 vintage I tasted some years back. Highly recommended.
(90 points) - 1997 Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon Gregory Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (6.4.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (76%) and Merlot (24%) from the Gregory Vineyard, planted in 1945. Harvested on September 26th 1997, bottled on July 27th, 1999. 14% alcohol and 6,9 g/l acidity. Total production 1300 cases. Tasted blind.
Slightly translucent, somewhat evolved and a bit hazy black cherry color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels fragrant, complex and very attractive with layered aromas of ripe blackcurrants and minty greenness, some blueberry tones, a little bit of black cherry, light sweeter notes of wizened dark plums, a hint of woody oak spice and a touch of roasted bell pepper. The wine feels juicy, textural and quite seductive on the palate with a full body and moderately evolved flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some green notes of eucalyptus and peppermint, light sweeter notes of wizened dark fruits, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a hint of old leather and a touch of wood spice. The overall feel is surprisingly firm and muscular for the age, thanks to the surprisingly high acidity and still relatively ample and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is firm, grippy and quite savory with a long aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and wizened dark plums, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tobacco, light leathery nuances, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of savory wood spice.
A fantastic, complex and still surprisingly structured Cali Cab that is in a terrific spot right now. Although the wine shows age, it manages to come across as more youthful than its age would suggest. There's great sense of depth, nuance and intensity to the flavors, all wonderfully backed up by the focused high acidity and quite assertive tannins that have resolved relatively little. This is really a banger and at 42€ the wine shows stellar value.
(93 points) - 2021 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Estate - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills (6.4.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from estate vineyards planted to Pinot clones 777 and 115, harvested between September 9th and 16th. 79% of the fruit destemmed, 21% vinified in whole bunches without any semicarbonic maceration. Fermented spontaneously in concrete and stainless steel tanks. Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques (25% new). 13,3% alcohol and pH 3,48. Tasted blind.
Youthful, luminous and fully translucent garnet red color with a very pale rim. The nose feels sweet and vibrant with aromas of ripe raspberries and kirsch, some smoky tones, a little bit of fresh boysenberry, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, vague inky hints, a touch of crunchy blueberry and a whiff of damp forest floor. The wine feels youthful, fresh and open on the palate with a medium body and juicy flavors of sweet red berries and ripe black raspberries, some Bing cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light smoky nuances, a hint of blueberry and a touch of wild strawberry. The structure leans on the fresh, high acidity while the gentle, ripe tannins mainly contribute to the texture. The finish is sweet-yet-savory and quite long with a little bit of tannic tug on the gums and a vibrant aftertaste of brambly raspberries and boysenberries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of wild strawberry, light stony mineral notes, a hint of earth and a reductive touch of gunpowder smoke.
From the jump people thought this was a new world Pinot Noir because the fruit profile was just so very new world in a fruit-driven way. However, the wine is nevertheless wonderfully fresh, tasty and sophisticated with a great sense of nuance, bright acidity and a lovely savory counterpoint to the fruit-forward overall feel. The wine is obviously very young and it is going to take probably at least a few more years before the wine loses its reductive qualities. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve for a good number of years more and probably isn't going to peak before its 10th birthday. Even if the wine is quite lovely, it feels perhaps a tad pricey for the quality at 67,90€, although not forbiddingly so.
(91 points) - 2019 Cascina Baricchi Barbera d'Alba Riva della Coda - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (6.4.2024)
100% Barbera from a parcel planted in 1954 in Barbaresco. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks for 10 days. Aged in old oak botti casks for 24 months. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite deep and rather opaque black cherry color that doesn't look young nor evolved. The nose feels vibrant and quite fruit-forward with aromas of ripe bilberries and fresh dark plums, some sharp appley tones, a little bit of sour cherry, light nuances of licorice root, a hint of raspberry juice, a touch of stony minerality and a whiff of old wood. The wine feels textural, slightly extracted and rather ripe with a moderately full body and crunchy yet sweet-toned flavors of ripe black cherries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of licorice root, light brambly notes of raspberries, a tart hint of lingonberry and a touch of old leather. The structure relies almost entirely on the very high acidity as the rather gentle tannins feel only very slightly grippy. The finish is savory, quite acid-driven and gently grippy with a long, slightly extracted aftertaste of tart lingonberries and sour cherries, some tobacco, a little bit of licorice root, light black raspberry nuances, a hint of sweet dark plum and a touch of saline minerality.
A surprisingly stern, serious and extracted effort for a Barbera that feels more dark-toned and fruit-driven than your typical tart, berry-driven Barberas - even though the wine could be aptly described as "tart" as well with its bright, zippy - almost appley - acidity! Good stuff with lots of upside - with this much flavor intensity, acidity and extraction, I can imagine the wine will age effortlessly for another decade or even two. Terrific value at 23€.
(91 points) - 2019 Elio Sandri Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (6.4.2024)
100% Dolcetto from vineyards in the Barolo appellation. Fully destemmed, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and aged in old Slavonian oak botti casks. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, quite opaque black cherry color that permits very little through - apart from the lighter ruby-red rim. The nose feels quite closed and reductive at first with skunky aromas of hard-boiled eggs, but slowly opens up to reveal aromas of very youthful - almost primary - notes of bilberry juice and dark grapey fruit, some candied notes of raspberry jellies, light inky tones, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, a hint of blueberry pie and a touch of crunchy dark plum. The wine feels lively, crunchy and quite primary on the palate with a medium body and intense, youthful flavors of blueberries and black raspberries, some stony mineral tones, light primary notes of sweet grapey fruit, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of rubbery reduction and a faint touch of sappy, herby greenness. The wine feels very firm and structure-driven with its high acidity and ample, grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, youthful and tannic with a long, intensely-flavored aftertaste of blueberries and dark plums, some brambly notes of black raspberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light reductive nuances of smoke and rubber, a tart hint of cranberries and a sweeter touch of cherry juice.
A very impressive, serious and structure-driven Dolcetto that is still way too young: upon opening the wine is heavily reduced and it takes a lot of aeration before the wine starts to open up - if you open up a bottle, remember to give it a lot of air! Furthermore, the fruit profile is still borderline primary and comes across as much younger than you'd expect from a Dolcetto pushing 5 years. Despite its reduction, this is a fantastic Piedmontese red that combines ripe and sunny fruit, playful energy and impressive sense of structure. Definitely a wine built for the long haul - you'll want to keep this wine in your cellar and drink lesser Dolcettos while this one ages. A terrific purchase at 17€.
(92 points) - 1990 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (6.4.2024)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately evolved, slightly hazy pomegranate color with an aged maroon rim. The nose feels savory, quite tertiary and slightly smoky with aromas of wizened dark fruits, some charred bacon, a little bit of meat stew, light leathery nuances, a hint of roasted root vegetables, a sweet touch of prunes and a whiff of pipe tobacco. The overall feel is aged, but not yet falling apart. The wine feels aged, silky and very savory on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and complex, tertiary flavors of dried dark berries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of pruney fruit, light smoky notes of crisp bacon, a hint of hoisin and a sanguine - even slightly metallic - touch of iron. The overall feel is quite mellow and textural; the structure relies mostly on the rather high acidity as the ample yet very ripe and fully resolved tannins mainly contribute to the texture. The finish is long, savory and gently grippy with a complex, tertiary aftertaste of smoky bacon, some meaty notes of savory umami and salt-cured beef, a little bit of sweet pruney fruit and dried dark berries, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of tart red berries and a touch of tobacco.
A tasty, sophisticated and gracefully evolved Cali Syrah at full maturity - or just on the cusp of decline. The overall feel is very tertiary, but there is still enough fruit and savory non-fruit nuances to keep things interesting - the wine is yet to turn senescent. However, it is obvious that the wine is on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for some time. No idea whatsoever to age the wine any longer; there is no direction for this wine to go from here but down. Very lovely at the moment, though. Superb value at 19€.
(90 points) - 2005 Schoffit Pinot Gris Tradition - France, Alsace (6.4.2024)
13,8% alcohol.
Luminous, quite deep and intense neon yellow-green color. Surprisingly Riesling-like nose with quite rich aromas of beeswax and peachy stone fruit, some honeydew melon tones, a little bit of poached pear, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of perfumed floral character and a touch of dried pineapple. The wine feels rich, clean and fruit-forward on the palate with a full body and evolved, medium-dry flavors of ripe pineapple and apricot, some apple jam, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax, a hint of honeydew melon and a touch of floral spice. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity, lending some balance and freshness to the slightly oily mouthfeel. The finish is rich, oily and lengthy with a complex off-dry aftertaste of beeswax and acacia honey, some peachy tones, a little bit of apple jam, light dried pineapple nuances, a hint of slightly bitter extracted spice and a touch of stony minerality.
Unlike the previous bottle we had about a year ago - which was quite oxidized and malty in character - this wine was in a great shape, showing wonderful evolved complexity and no obvious oxidative qualities. I was surprised how Riesling-like the nose was; I poured the wine blind and even though the wine was rich and quite modest in acidity on the palate, people still guessed Alsatian Riesling - just based on the Riesling-like aromatics. Well, at least people got Alsace correct right off the bat! This was a terrific bottle and a great example how even the entry-level wines from the best Alsatian producers can easily evolve and keep for several decades! Simply stellar value at 13,10€.
(92 points) - 2018 Heinrich Spindler Forster Pechstein Riesling - Germany, Pfalz (6.4.2024)
100% organically farmed Riesling from Forster Pechstein, a Grosse Lage vineyard. A tiny portion of the wine is macerated with the skins to add depth and complexity. Aged on fine lees until the wine is bottled. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite youthful and rather pale yellow-green color. The fragrant nose feels clean, youthful and very textbook Riesling with aromas of white peach and ripe citrus fruits, some mineral notes of wet rocks, light crunchy notes of Golden Delicious apple and a perfumed hint of apple blossom. The wine feels clean, balanced and somewhat medium-everything on the palate with a medium body and medium-intense flavors of yellow apples, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of ripe and sweet-toned citrus fruits, light saline nuances, a hint of chalky bitterness and a touch of floral spice. The medium-to-moderately high acidity keeps the wine more or less in balance, but doesn't contribute much freshness or sense of structure to the wine, making the overall feel quite broad, open-knit and a bit mellow. The finish is long, mellow and richly-textured with a slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of saline minerality and ripe citrus fruits, some chalky bitterness, a little bit of juicy white peach and a crunchy hint of yellow apple.
A rather saline but otherwise quite mellow and generic 2018 Riesling. I guess the wine is technically a GG (a dry Riesling from a Grosse Lage site), even if it officially isn't (as Spindler isn't a member of the VDP), but the overall feel is more that of a ripe yet quite anonymous Riesling. I'd expect this kind of richness and texture from an Alsatian Riesling, or maybe a Smaragd Riesling from Wachau. Oh well, I guess that's 2018 vintage for you. This wasn't a bad wine - just nothing particularly memorable.
(87 points) - 2022 Holger Koch Herrenstück Chardonnay - Germany, Baden (6.4.2024)
A single-vineyard Chardonnay. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 7 months in oak barrels ranging from 400 to 600 liters in volume. 12,5% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar and 5,9 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Rather pale yellow-green color. Clean, youthful and maybe a bit anonymous nose of Golden Delicious apple, some youthful pear notes, a little bit of steely minerality, light leesy tones and a hint of creaminess suggesting oak aging. Rather linear overall feel. The wine feels crisp, lively and ever-so-slightly prickly on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of ripe Granny Smith apples and zesty citrus fruits, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of salinity, juicy crunchy notes of fresh white peaches, a hint of extracted bitterness and a crunchy touch of white currant. Bright high acidity. The finish is crisp and lively with a moderately long, quite acid-driven aftertaste of citrus fruits, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of salinity, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a hint of waxy richness and a touch of white peach.
A pleasant and refreshing Chardonnay. Surprisingly Chablis in style - perhaps showing a bit more ripeness and coming across as slightly more anonymous than your classic Chablis, but perhaps some of it comes from the very young age of the wine. I'd say this wine has potential, but it is still too young to show its best - let it age for at least a few more years, preferably even a handful more.
(89 points) - 2020 Markus Schneider Einzelstück - Germany, Pfalz (6.4.2024)
100% Portugieser from a vineyard originally planted in the 1920's, although some of the vines have been replanted later. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, almost fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels ripe, sweet and quite dark-toned with aromas of black raspberries and sweet black cherries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, light woody notes of savory spice, a hint of fresh blueberry and a touch of floral lift. The overall feel is a bit sweet and rather polished but also quite serious. The wine feels dry, somewhat polished and a bit extracted yet still relatively airy - not chewy - on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of tart red and dark berries like cranberries, lingonberries and crowberries, some sweeter notes of toasty oak spice, a little bit of stony minerality, light cigar tones, sweet hints of ripe black cherries and a woody touch savory oak. The overall feel is quite structure-driven with the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. There's some heat on the palate that makes me question whether the wine really is "only" 13,5% in ABV. The finish is juicy, quite grippy and somewhat warm with a long, youthful aftertaste of ripe dark berries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of cigar smoke and toasty mocha oak, light ferrous notes of blood, a sweeter hint of black cherries and a touch of extracted bitterness.
A surprisingly stern and serious effort for a Portugieser - nobody had any idea what the wine was, because the variety is normally vinified as a simple, unpretentious everyday wine, whereas this was noticeably more extracted and muscular than any other Portugieser anyone had ever tasted before. However, the wine also feels a bit overdone; the alcohol feels a bit too high and the fruit profile is a tad too sweet, so even if the acidity is perfectly in balance with the body, it feels like the producer has tried to push the ripeness a bit too high. Furthermore, the wine is quite dominated by sweet, toasty oak aromatics, which make the overall feel quite modern and polished, even a bit too glossy. I'm sure this wine would've been much more interesting with considerably less new oak. I hope aging the wine would help in integrating those new oak flavors - at least the wine is obviously built to age. All in all, this is a Portugieser unlike any other - but I think there's still room for improvement.
(88 points)
Posted from CellarTracker