Our long time tasting group gathered last weekend, for the first time since the Fall. We’ve known each other a long time - long enough to reminisce over all the various pets who have crossed the rainbow bridge - and can laugh about the stories that we’ve heard (before). Most of the wines were classic French AOC, held since release, and quite a few were WS WOTY’s.
Our starter was a young viognier, the 2020 Julien Pilon ‘Lone’ [Condrieu] 13% on the label, with classic honey, lush tones but enough brightness to show the magic of this tiny AOC. Medium bodied and the product of purchased/contracted grapes, but it’s lovely stuff presented in a hock style bottle with a conventional cork. Thanks to garagiste/Rimmerman for this; this is worth the email noise.
1986 Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon [Napa] Cork soaked about 1/3 of the way. This is from the Sbragia era, and is fabulous: lush, deep, resolved tannin, richly flavored with currants, milk chocolate, and then sage. There was sediment here, and it would have been good to decant this WS WOTY. We had lots of (unused) decanters so that was an oversight. I still have not had a faded/tired/old/sucky PR CS over all these years.
The Burgundy stems were now graced by the 1995 Vincent Girardin ‘Clos de Lambots’ VV 1er [Pommard] which was a pale red, showing tertiary notes, with an orange peel character. This went quickly! I did not realize Pommard offered such aging horizons.
We then segued into our main focus - Bordeaux (and blends) - which led off with the 1995 Ducru Beaucaillou [St Julien] Another superb WS WOTY that was flavorful, curranty and gifted with a long finish. Love the cigarbox/cedar bouquet, and that great balance. I have not tasted this in a long time - and have held a bias toward the 1996 - but this was awesome. Tasters threw this back with (elegant) delight.
2000 Carmes Haut Brion [Pessac Leognan] This was a grey market import - despite being purchased EP - from dearly departed Merrick’s Adventures in Wine, so the tag had a vague 11-14% abv denotion. I’m guessing it was 13%; it was about half cab franc. Lots of herbal, leafy, licorice, bandaid character on day #1. There was some lemon (!) on this cloudy, grippy wine. There are not many CF driven wines but this is worth exploring. Even at it’s age, it needs air.
2004 Montrose [St Estephe] This double decader Medoc had been held since release and was the only wine that was properly decanted. 13% abv and showing a sandalwood nose, youthful dark purple robe, with lots of balance and grip (still!). It should have a long life ahead of it, given it’s tannic/pipe tobacco nature. This is likely an outlier opinion on WB, but I tend to both prefer and consume wine without food - often while reading - but Montrose is the kind of beast that tames beef well and improves both the gobbling and gulping experience.
2005 Certan Marzelle [Pomerol] This is a seldom seen, and now defunct, Mouiex property which has seen quite the tortuous ownership/output history in the last 75 years. It’s pure merlot, 13.5% abv, lush texturally, with a dulce de leche / milk caramel character. Jeff Leve has a good overview on his website of the vineyard, which has some relationship to the better known ‘Certan’ estates. Probably was better at age 15.
We closed out the lovely evening with another outlier: 2001 Rieussec [Sauternes] which is golden/orange botrytized dessert wine with a viscous feel, glaceed apricot aroma/taste, and bright zippiness. I’ve had this a few times before and it’s a perfect wine, evolving as intended/expected. For those who follow Rieussec closely, it’s disappointing what Saskia Rothschild is trying to do here - commercially - but there is an ocean of back vintage sweet Bordeaux in collectors’ cellars, and in the marketplace, so I won’t worry about the changes afoot for a while.
It was great seeing everyone, and having a reason to tidy up our public spaces, and I hope we meet sooner next time.
