Once and Future Wine Company’s 2023 Spring Release has begun. Joel Peterson produces two varietal bottlings from the “Oakley Road Vineyard” - a Zinfandel and a Mataro (Mourvèdre).
In an essay accompanying the 2021 vintage tasting notes, Mr Peterson elaborates on the strategies adopted to moderate climate change-driven drought and rising temperatures.
“2021 Vintage Report - Once & Future Wine”
"…With the 2021 vintage, the ongoing California drought was entering its third year, the 2020-21 water year being the ninth driest in the past 127 years of record keeping. From the January, 2023, perspective, it is hard to remember how much the drought influenced the shape of the 2021 vintage. The effect on the vines was profound and, as a consequence, the effect on the wine profile was substantial and required winemaking vigilance.
"…Lessons come from the warm, dry climate in Oakley, where we have earlier bloom, earlier veraison, earlier harvest, and more likelihood of avoiding the most devastating consequences of heat, which can be extreme in this location. Zinfandel is an earlier ripening grape that develops pleasing flavors earlier in its ripening cycle…
"Earlier harvested grapes from earlier ripening vines produce wines that are more balanced, with moderate alcohol, that have more complexity and interest than grapes picked later. Those later-picked grapes with a longer hang time generally have more intensity, but with the downside of significant dehydration and overripe character that is accompanied by high alcohol content.
"In 2021, I applied this concept of earlier harvest to most of my old-vine Zinfandel. All were picked between August 16 and September 7, well before the Cabernet Sauvignon, which can be harvested as late as early November. The wines are very pretty, transparent, delicious, and lower in alcohol, and they will drink beautifully soon after bottling.
“While 2021 didn’t have much extreme heat, I followed the same picking strategy in 2022. All my Zinfandel vineyards except one were harvested before the heat dome settled into Northern California. This extreme heat in 2022 was very hard on later ripening grapes. I guess we will have to see if the market agrees that this is a good direction for Zinfandel…”.
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‘Oakley Road’ Mataro - Contra Costa”
"Ancient dry-farmed vines, planted in the late 1800s, spread down a north-and-east slope facing in the direction of the cooling afternoon winds and San Joaquin River, which, at one point in its past history, deposited the deep granitic sand dune-like soil where the roots of these vines have found safe haven. This is one of the few places in the world with Vinifera vines that are this old, grown on their own roots.
"The sand, the wind, and the ancient, own-rooted vines define the place. Mataro from this place is not the dark phenolic stuff that one expects of the grape but has a power that is much more balanced and charming.
“‘The 2021 Mataro “Oakley Road Vineyard” is decidedly lifted and floral in this vintage, with plenty of red berry character and tons of nuance. Sweet floral, spice accents and bright acids give this charming Mataro, from own rooted vines on sandy soils in Contra Costa County, a good bit of character.’ - Antonio Galloni, Vinous"
"‘Oakley Road’ Zinfandel - Contra Costa
"…A small number of Carignane and Mataro vines interplanted among the Zinfandel contribute complexity and modify the flavor profile, giving added definition to the wine.
"‘The 2021 Zinfandel “Oakley Road Vineyard” is rich and boisterous right out of the gate. Opulent and effusive, with soaring aromatics, the 2021 has a lot of energy. It is also a bit wild and unruly, but all the elements are nicely put together. Succulent dark cherry, plum, coffee, spice and leather are nicely pushed forward. This bold, punchy Zinfandel sure makes an impression.’ - Antonio Galloni, Vinous"
Once and Future Wine Company website:
https://www.onceandfuturewine.com