Contra Costa County Wine Heritage

Ærena Wines, a special label from Blackbird, is a collaboration by two prominent Napa wine personalities: Aaron Pott and Kyle Mizuno.


Ærena Blog
“The Bay Area in a Bottle”

May 18, 2019

"…The land upon which ÆRENA’s Rosé is sourced boasts vines both 30-years-young and 135-years-old. The del Barba family, keeper of these vines’ stories, is down to earth and humble. Tom del Barba is a fourth-generation farmer. His family, and many in the area, came from the walled city of Lucca, in Tuscany. These original Bay Area immigrants planted the varieties of their homeland and because of the terroir, the vines are incredibly old. The soils are the sandy banks of the Bay Delta and very little can live in it, including the phylloxera root louse. It makes organic farming really easy. As a result, you find these gnarly old head-pruned bestats, own-rooted, standing like sentinels in a field.
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“For years, these vineyards supplied the likes of Bonny Doon and Turley and more recently, Morgan Twain Peterson of Bedrock and others of California’s nouveau winemaking class. These vines are 135-year-old Mourvedre and Carignan, locally known as Mataro and ‘care-again’ respectively. The vines are so old that in a good year, Tom gets one bunch per spur. In some years, a spur may not fruit at all. Such are the vagaries of old vine farming…”.
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Ærena Wines website:
https://www.aerenawines.com/

I’ve re-upped on the Free Your Mind twice now. It’s a fun wine, well-crafted and perfect for the summer. While calling it the best Lambrusco I’ve ever had might be damning it with faint praise, I think that’s its closest spiritual sibling. And, well worth the tariff, imo.

I hope to test drive the skin-contact & mission/petite soon.

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As pointed out on other thread posts, Bonny Doon’s latest lineup restructuring means that a fan favorite, the “Old Telegram” Contra Costa Mataro, is finis.

Nevertheless, here are a couple of older Facebook images from Bonny Doon Vineyards related to the “Enea Vineyard”, source of one of Contra Costa County’s earliest varietal Mourvèdre/Mataro wines:

Enea Vineyard Mourvedre


Enea Vineyard Mourvedre

Over the span of nearly four decades, Randall Grahm bought Zinfandel, Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, and Mourvedre grapes from the Del Barba (sites on Laurel Rd and Rose Ave) and Gonsalves (“Enea Vyd”, Antioch). I think that the late Frank Evangehlo sold fruit to Grahm at one point as well.


According to a 2010 post on the old “CoCo-Fermented” blog:

"…I introduced myself to a gent in baseball cap and shades, who just happened to be Tom Del Barba, the latest generation of Oakley grape growers who’ve been farming the family old-vine estates for decades. And he turned out to be both welcoming and informative when it came to describing the ins and outs of the grape-growing biz.

“…The stuff being picked today at the Laurel property was a prime ingredient in Bonny Doon’s Cardinal Zin, and the relationship with CZ’s new owners, The Wine Group, continues the love. In fact, Bonny Doon founder/winemaker, Randall Grahm is a big fan of the Del Barba Mourvèdre, having used it for his Old Telegram and Le Cigare Volant projects.”

The author also mentions that a tiny plot of ancient Mourvèdre and Alicante Bouschet vines, situated behind the Oakley post office (on Main Street), was long regarded by Mr Grahm as one of his favorite grape sources.


Bonny Doon Vineyards
“Contra Contra or How I Lost my Marketing Mojo”

by Randall Grahm

“…I had accidentally discovered the brilliance of old vine Carignane in the old head-trained, sandy vineyards of Antioch and Oakley in Contra Costa County many years back when we began working with old-vine Mourvèdre for our Old Telegram and Cigare Volant wines. Indeed many if not most of the vineyards in Antioch and Oakley were interplanted—crazy-quilts of Carignane and Mourvèdre, often with Zinfandel and occasionally Alicanté in the mix. The vines were very old, even then—pushing eighty or ninety years of age at the time—not irrigated (who would spend money on irrigation?), non-grafted and pruned in the lovely goblet form…”.

Finally, it should be noted that, in Mr Grahm’s opinion, Carignan from Contra Costa was superior to old-vine examples from other parts of California:

“…Not all old-vine Carignane vines are created equal. Counter-intuitively, equally old vine Carignane from sites in Mendocino County, a cooler region than say, Antioch, generally fails to provide the same quality as grapes from Antioch vineyards. I’ve imagined that perhaps it was a question of clonal variability, but I now believe that it is likely a function of the fact that most of the Antioch vineyards are ungrafted whereas most of the vines in the Ukiah area are not. Alternately, maybe it’s the higher rainfall and heavier, richer soils of Ukiah that produce higher yielding vines. Whatever the case, the Carignane from the Antioch area is decidedly superior.”

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That 2013 Bonny Doon “Dewn” Mourvedre was outstanding a couple of years ago. Wish I had more.

…but I now believe that it is likely a function of the fact that most of the Antioch vineyards are ungrafted…

I have come to this same conclusion. It just seems most Contra Costa wines from old vines have a more earthy edge to them that I really dig.

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The vineyards also have very different soils (as mentioned). Of course, that’s related to why they can be ungrafted but it makes it difficult to separate the reasons the wines are different.

-Al

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Bedrock Wine Company’s other CoCo bottling has been garnering more praise from fans and critics recently. The “Pato Vineyard” (“paw-toe”), situated on land owned by the Contra Costa County Water District, reflects a darker, richer interpretation of old-vine Delta field blends.


Wine and Spirits website: Wine of the Week
“Contra Costa for a Weekend Roast”

by Patrick J. Comiskey
May 31, 2021

2018 Bedrock Wine Co. “Pato Vineyard” Heritage Wine
Morgan Twain-Peterson’s notes on the 2018 “Pato” bottling:
from the Bedrock website ("Our Vintages):

“As always, Pato is the yin to the Evangelho yang of our Contra Costa County estate sites. While Evangelho tends to be more graceful, Pato is weightier, darker and maybe a bit more intense. If Evangelho is ballet, Pato is B-Boy: both cut from the same muscular cloth but Pato willing to pick up a little more dirt. What I love about Pato is how despite its richness (the vineyard is in a warmer site and has Petite Sirah while Evangelho has none), you can still see the burnished tannin provided by the sandy soils of the site. It is definitely worth opening this and an Evangelho side-by-side to see the two faces of Contra Costa County.”

Bonus: Here is an Instagram post by Mr Comiskey offering a preview of his excellent Wine & Spirits article on the old vineyards of Antioch and Oakley, CA:

Wine and Spirits magazine website:
https://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/

Historic Vineyard Society profile: “Pato Vineyard”

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The California Agricultural Tourism website includes an interactive state map that allows users to view region-based rosters of farms


California Agricultural Tourism Directory:
San Francisco Bay Area

“Harvest Time is a Non-Profit Organization that is dedicated to educating the general public and ‘foodies’ about farming and its products while improving Agri-tourism education in the Brentwood, California Region of East Contra Costa County. Each year, we produce an educational farm trail map that directs you to more than 40 growers who sell direct to the consumer!”


Wineries Directory

· Hannah Nicole Vineyards

· Co.Co.County Wine Co.

· McCauley Estate Vineyards

· Nunn Family Vineyards / Orchard & Vine

· Campos Family Vineyards

· Petersen Vineyards

· Tamayo Family Vineyards



HT_FarmMap_2021.pdf (2.79 MB)

Below are two images of “Sophia Favalora Vineyard” Zinfandel vines, posted to Facebook by Shauna Rosenblum of Rock Wall Wine Company:


2017 - “Sophia Favalora Vineyard”, Oakley, CA

2018 - “Sophia Favalora Vineyard”, Oakley, CA


The “Sophia Favalora Vineyard” is a younger fruit source for Favalora Vineyards’ single-vineyard Zinfandel wine. The site was planted using vine cuttings from the “Planchon Vineyard”. Mr Frank Favalora, nephew of the late Stan and Gertie Planchon, operates his eponymous winery in Livermore, CA, using Oakley grapes.


Shauna Rosenblum produces a diverse selection of wines in Alameda’s Rock Wall Wine Co. Her “Zin Nymph” (tasting notes - download) is a Zinfandel from the “Sophia Favalora Vineyard” in Oakley. In addition, Rock Wall bottles a Pearl Hart Vineyard Contra Costa Reserve Zinfandel. The 2016 Jesse’s Vineyard and 2017 Reserve Sven & Ole Zinfandels also were made from Contra Costa grapes.


Winemaker Notes for Rock Wall’s 2017 “Zin Nymph”:

"Elegant, just like the elusive mermaid, this pretty pink wine smells like strawberry milkshake, fresh squeezed lemonade, hibiscus flower, and white pepper. Gorgeous flavors of blackberry, raspberry, peach, tangerine, Madagascar vanilla, and rose petal complete the experience.

“This wine is a chameleon and would be a fun one to taste in a black glass as I think it could masquerade as a red or white wine. I am super stoked about this wine! Cheers, and let the games begin.”


Rock Wall Wine Company website:
https://rockwallwines.com/

Favalora Vineyards Facebook profile:

I am on a perpetual search for oral histories of grape growing and winemaking in Contra Costa County. I was excited to find this video recording of Mr Matt Cline from a 2017 ZAP event.

I strongly recommend CoCo wine fans watch the video!


Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP!)
“ZinEX 2017- Flights – Matt Cline”



"“The Dirt, the Microclimate, and Don’t Screw it Up!”

"“Matt’s winemaking career can be traced back to Oakley in 1982 where he helped his brother establish Cline Cellars; in 1985 he became head winemaker at Cline Cellars. Matt’s wines won countless awards during his 16-year career at Cline Cellars. In 2001, Matt launched Trinitas Cellars, which he then sold in 2006. A year later, Matt established Three Wine Company with his wife, Erin, where they currently have a tasting room and production facility on the Sacramento River in Clarksburg. Matt concentrates on sourcing old vines from Northern California, particularly from Contra Costa County. When he’s is not racking and perfecting his winemaking techniques, Matt enjoys fly fishing and gardening, as well as relaxing at home in Sonoma with Erin and their three children.”

Three Wine Company website:
https://threewinecompany.com/

Much of the future of Contra Costa County’s wine grape-growing has been determined, short of any miraculous turns of fate.


Local News Matters
“Contra Costa Eyes More Recreational Uses for Agriculture Land”

by Sam Richards, Bay City News Foundation
February 14, 2020

"Though some specifics are still being debated, a burgeoning plan to update agricultural land use policy in Contra Costa County to make it easier for ag tourism, farm-to-table restaurants and other emerging commercial uses is getting support from farmers and others looking to do more than simply grow crops and graze cattle.

"The county Board of Supervisors this month accepted a report from the county’s Department of Conservation and Development with various recommendations for reforming and updating ag land use policies to ‘improve both economic vitality and sustainability.’

"The report also recommends that the Board of Supervisors update Contra Costa’s winery ordinance and other rules to allow large ‘farm dinner’ events, various new types of lodging accommodations, including bed-and-breakfast businesses, farm stays for up to 90 days and camping/yurts/little houses on wheels.

"The report also addresses issues like illegal garbage dumping on ag lands, ‘rural blight’ from properties strewn with debris and/or in extreme disrepair, a possible noise ordinance and other situations resulting from encroaching development in the county’s more rural reaches.

“‘This (report) isn’t perfect, but it’s going in a great direction,’ said Supervisor Diane Burgis of Oakley.

"…The report has been developed after almost two years of public meetings, a dozen of them, mostly in the rural Knightsen area of East Contra Costa.

"…Several public speakers at this month’s Board of Supervisors meeting, including representatives of the environmental advocacy groups Save Mount Diablo and Greenbelt Alliance, told the supervisors they support the basic plan.

"Some had a few specific bones to pick; the most-mentioned one was a 40-acre minimum parcel size for some of the suggested new uses.

"Many areas have been subdivided into lots as small as 10 acres over the years, with an eye to development.

"Rebecca Courchesne, whose family operates Frog Hollow Farm on 10 acres near Brentwood, said a suggested 40-acre minimum to host a farm-to-table restaurant is impractical, given a preponderance of 10-acre parcels in the area and the high cost of land.

“‘Having small parcels that are viable … the farm-to-table restaurant is a vital part of that,’ Courchesne told the supervisors. ‘The 10-acre parcels are ideal for beginning young farmers.’

“…John Viano, president of the Contra Costa County Farm Bureau and an owner of Viano Vineyards in Martinez, said the plan has come a long way in two years, but that issues like parcel size, structure placement on parcels to provide the best possible economics and avoiding actions ‘that take away the rural effect’ still need to be worked out.…”.

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The legislature establishing Contra Costa’s Agriculture Core (Knightson, Brentwood area, Southeast of Oakley) and Urban Limit Lines each have influenced the protection and loss of local vineyards.

Many old-vine viticultural sites in eastern CoCo grow on parcels smaller than 10 acres. Therefore, they do not qualify for the protections afforded by agriculture conservation measures.

Oakley’s Agriculture Conservation and Viticulture Preservation (ACVP) program could have shielded many ancient vineyards from the threat of commercial development, but the plan was terminated before its implementation.


County of Contra Costa
PDF download:
“3.2 Agricultural Resources”:
https://www.contracosta.ca.gov/DocumentCenter/View/42487


County of Contra Costa
PDF download:
“Recommendations on Reforming Agricultural Land Use Policies in Contra Costa County To Improve Both Economic Vitality and Sustainability” (Revised September 6, 2019):
https://www.contracosta.ca.gov/DocumentCenter/View/61090/Preliminary-Draft-Recommendations-as-of-9-6-19-PDF

The following images were posted to the “Sandy Lane Vineyard’s” Facebook page during June & July of 2020:




“Sandy Lane Vineyard” is owned by the Gonsalves family in Oakley, CA.

Mr Kevin Romick, Oakley city council member and former mayor, shares many excellent photographs that he takes of the Oakley area. He posted the following image on a Facebook post yesterday:


“In viticulture, veraison is the onset of the ripening of the grapes. The official definition of veraison is ‘change of color of the grape berries’. Veraison represents the transition from berry growth to berry ripening, and many changes in berry development occur at veraison.”


“Romick in Oakley” blog website:

Three Livermore-based wineries share a commercial space for public interaction. Rosa Fierro, Ehrenberg, and Favalora each produce at least one bottling sourced from Oakley-grown grapes.


Independent News
“The Many Adventures of Rosie, Chris and Frankie”

October 4, 2018


"…After a long search for a location where they could each have a place to serve their respective wines to customers as well as make their wines, Rosie Mangin (Rosa Fierro Cellars), Chris Ehrenberg (Ehrenberg Cellars and Schmidt), and Frankie Favalora (Favalora Vineyard Winery) have finally moved their respective brands into spacious new quarters at 346 Earhart Drive. In doing so, they’ve effectively expanded the boundaries of Livermore wine country westward.

"…What can you expect when you come here for a tasting? Well, in the case of Favalora, Zin, Barbera, and Carignane, from his estate vineyards and a couple of others in Contra Costa County. Rosie’s lineup features Chardonnay and Cabernet from Livermore, along with Zin from Frank and Merlot from Sonoma. Chris Ehrenberg gets Barbera, Carignane, and Zin from Frank, along with a bunch of cool stuff from Amador and Lodi.

"…Each brand offers a totally unique experience, in terms of varietals and in terms of style.


"…For harvest 2018, Rosie plans to get Chardonnay from Tenuta, from which she will make both oaked and unoaked versions. She’ll source Cabernet from Thatcher for her rosé, Zin from Favalora Vineyard and hopefully, Merlot from Moon Mountain. She’d really love to get some Sachau Merlot at some point.

"Ehrenberg’s Schmidt brand will join his Ehrenberg label on the bar, along with the wines from the 14 barrels he bought from Emily Coyne, after Tom passed away. Ehrenberg started making wine at Rock Wall in 2008 and has been hooked ever since. His style is unapologetically big and fleshy.

"…Chris also has a Favalora Zin from Contra Costa, a Napa Cab (big and bold with lots of grilled pepper and good acid), as well as Zin, Barbera and Carignane from Lodi.

"Under the Schmidt label, which honors his father, Chris Ehrenberg also has a Syrah, Zin and Petite Sirah. He’s very excited about the ETC dessert wines that contain some of Tom’s juice. ‘Emilee Coyne said I could use Tom’s name and picture on the label,’ says Ehrenberg. The ETC late harvest Zin is a big fruity monster that would best be consumed seated in a comfortable chair you’re not planning to move from for a while. There’s also an ETC Cabernet port, sourced mostly from Tom Coyne’s legacy barrels.

"…Next it was time to dip into the Favalora selections. Athletic, handsome, with an easy-going demeanor and an LED smile, Frank got started in wine when he was 23. ‘I lived in Antioch and I played basketball,’ he says. Everything changed when he met his father-in-law, Stan Planchon, who asked him, ‘Do you know anything about wine? With a name like Frankie Favalora, you need to know. I’m going to teach you.’

"Frank says Stan had tasted Chris’s wines and liked them, and encouraged the two to team up. Ironically, at an event at Rosenblum Cellars where Chris was making wine, Shauna, Kent Rosenblum’s daughter, came by and said to Frankie, ‘You two need to get together!’

"…After years of growing —Frank planted his vineyard in 1999 using Zin cuttings from the Planchon vineyard of his parents-in-law, Gertie and Stan, which dates back to 1902—he figured it was time.

"…On the tasting bar, you’ll find his 2015 Carignane from Frank’s cousin’s 100-year old dry-farmed vineyard on Live Oak Road in Contra Costa. It clocks in at 16.7% and smells of Bing cherry. It’s big and fleshy, with superb tannins. Carignane is known for its generous texture and thick skin and it gets really ripe out here with lots of hang time. Frank also has a 2016 Carignane from the Del Barba Vineyard, another old Contra Costa gem, this one with more layers, enticing pepper on the finish and good acid, along with coca cola and root beer flavors. He lets it hang until October.

“If you’re a fan of ripe Zinfulness, Frank’s 2015 late harvest Zin from the St. Peter’s Church clone out of Manuel Madruga’s vineyard, also in Contra Costa, will ring your chimes. Frank says that Madruga planted the vineyard in 2000, at the urging of Kent Rosenblum, who was well-regarded as a master of Zin, who asked him to plant the St. Peter’s Church clone. Known for its big berries and elongated clusters, it has developed quite a reputation and following among Rosenblum devotees. Maybe it’s the power of suggestion, but to me it tasted like a sacramental wine, amped up by the addition of Late Harvest Petite Sirah from Tom Coyne’s stash…”.


This article was hard to track down, but it provides two interesting bits of trivia:

· Chris Ehrenberg and Frank Favalora are working with several barrels of finished wine from the late Thomas Coyne, sourced from daughter Emily Coyne. It is used in blending their dessert/late harvest wines.

· Details are given as to which Zinfandel field selections or Clones make up newer Oakley vineyards: “Madruga Vineyard” is composed of “St Peter’s Church” cuttings, “Sophia Favalora Vineyard” includes “Planchon Vineyard” vine material. Kent Rosenblum introduced new Zin clonal selections into the area (link).


Ehrenberg Cellars / Schmidt website:

Favalora Vineyard Winery Facebook page:

Rosa Fierro Cellars website:

East Bay Express Archives
“Best East Bay Winery with East Bay Vineyards: Thomas Coyne Winery”

July 14, 2010
"Tom Coyne started out as a home winemaker (while he was a chemical engineer for Clorox), then started working as a cellar rat at Rosenblum Cellars, then started making a little wine under his own label and selling it there in 1989, and finally made the leap to his own winery and vineyards in Livermore in 1994.

“Along the way, he became one of the Bay Area’s best winemakers, specializing in Rhône varieties and multiple Merlots, but capable of doing a great job with anything from Pinot Blanc to Spanish grapes you never heard of, with local Livermore fruit and grapes from Lodi, Contra Costa County, and the Sierra Foothills. The bonus treat is the winery itself: a venerable Livermore winemaking site, founded in 1881 as Chateau Bellvue, complete with historic buildings and a nifty view. Does Tom Coyne respect tradition? Here’s a clue — he refuses to be bothered with e-mail.”

These photos were taken by Mr Kevin Romick of the Oakley vineyards near Big Break Regional Shoreline on Friday, July 2nd, 2021. Images were posted to his Facebook page.




Big Break Regional Shoreline website:

**Resident Grape-Nutz reporter/reviewer Ken Zinns kindly shared images from when he assisted in bottling Côte West’s Zinfandel Rosé and Claire Hill’s Mourvedre.

These are among the handful of the newer small-scale producers who offer vineyard-designated wines from Contra Costa County.**


Côte West Winery

Côte West is a tiny Oakland operation from husband-and-wife Brett and Kerrie Hogan (along with assistant winemaker Michael McCullough). The winery’s Zinfandel rosé and red offerings are from the “Del Barba Vineyard” in Oakley. A new Carignan-Grenache blend includes 60% old-vine Contra Costa Carignan; the Grenache component is from a younger vineyard in Clarksburg.


Visit Oakland
Profile: “Côte West Winery”

“…Our wine grapes originate from distinct Californian sites with unique weather patterns, terrain, and soils that lend themselves to excellent wine. And yet our practices resemble those more commonly found in Burgundy: we pick early to ensure lively acidity and lower alcohol, and we minimize sulfur and other additions. We bring the best of these worlds together through Côte West.”


Berkeley Side
“Chardonnay Haters: This Oakland Winery’s Old World-Take Tastes New”

by Kathryn Bowen
September 3, 2019


Claire Hill Wines

Claire Hill Wines produces a “Del Barba Vineyard” Mourvedre, as well as a small selection of single-vineyard wines from across California (not to mention one Côte-du-Rhône red). Her Contra Costa Mourvedre is surprisingly low in alcohol (12% ABV), and its delicate purity of expression has garnered praise from several knowledgeable trade professionals.


Food and Wine magazine
“Sommelier Vinny Eng’s California Winemaker Roll Call”
by Megan Krigbaum
August 22, 2019

“…Claire Hill, Claire Hill Wines: After working in California wineries, like Unti and Rhys as well as with Éric Texier in the Rhône, and a stint in the wine department at San Francisco’s exceptional BiRite market, Claire Hill struck out on her own. She’s working with Mourvèdre grapes from Contra Costa County to make what Eng calls ‘the most delicious thing’. Mourvèdre can often be coarse and robust, but Eng loves Hill’s style for its smooth, elegant texture.”


Edible San Francisco
“Claire Hill Wines, Del Barba Vineyard, Mourvèdre, Contra Costa 2019”

November 29, 2020

“…The first word that popped into our head while drinking this 2019 was ‘elegant’, which it’s safe to say, is a description not often applied to Mourvèdre. There’s plenty of that savory fruit so typical of the grape, but it’s painted in with a fine brush instead of a hammer. And that is apropos I guess, since Claire also painted the label…”.


Flatiron Wines
“Producer: Claire Hill Wines”

“…Claire’s wines are swoonworthy. They possess the focus and precision one would expect from someone doing this for a decade or more. They radiate with the energy of California sunshine while maintaining structure and acidity we tend to assign to cool climate European wines. Having had many wines from the vineyards she buys fruit from, we can say with confidence that these are the amongst the most transcendent wines that we’ve ever tasted from those sites.”


Erggelet Brothers

The Erggelet Brothers source grapes from very different Contra Costa vineyards: the estate “Cecchini Family Vineyard”, part of the Urban Edge Farm in Knightsen; two older “Del Barba” vineyards in Oakley. Julian and his wife Alli grow several crops utilizing sustainable CCOF methodologies at the Cecchini family’s Urban Edge Farm.


Flatiron Wines - blog
“Naturally Elegant Wines from the Delta”

"…All the Malvasia is currently sourced from the CCOF-certified Checchini Family Vineyard in Knightsen. This is where Julian’s wife Ali was born and her family has farmed there for several generations.

"Carignane and Zinfandel are both picked in Oakley, from fourth generation farming legend Tom Del Barba’s fine sand vineyards. Specifically, their grapes come from a center block of his hundred year old vines.

"Lastly, the Mataro is sourced just down the road from a highly regarded, century-old, 5 acre block owned by Tom’s dad, Fred Del Barba.

"The brothers farm or help farm all of the plots they work with.

​"Their meticulous farming is coupled with low intervention but intentional wine-making, which allows Julian and Sebastian to showcase their adopted homes’ world class terroir.

“…Their wines are delicious, exceptional and unique, light on their feet but with structure and acidity that point to ancient vines. It’s clear that Julian and Sebastian are destined for wine-world super stardom…”.


JB’s Wine Talk
“Easygoing Malvasia Bianca From Contra Costa County”

by JB (?)
July 8, 2021


2015 profile of the “Cecchini Family Vineyard”:

I often have overlooked vineyards and wineries in Western Contra Costa. The only subappellation in the county is the Lamorinda AVA, which, according to the article below, appears to be flourishing.


East Bay Magazine
“Garagiste Bay”

by Amy Glynn
September 21, 2020

"…Those wines are garagiste creations made within the American Viticultural Area that encompasses the fraternal-triplet municipalities of Lafayette, Moraga and Orinda. The portmanteau Lamorinda AVA encompasses 30,000 acres, with about 140 acres under vine across 46 vineyards. The typical Lamorinda winegrower is working with a backyard vineyard—the area’s rich in large-but-‘unusable’ steep-sloped parcels where vines find an agreeable, if complicated, home. Winemaking here is almost entirely micro-scale.

"…Contra Costa County is a land of tensions and counterpoints, physically, socially and culturally. It always has been. County boundaries encompass a human population of 1.2 million. Though it’s somehow perceived as an inland region, it has extensive waterfront on the San Francisco, San Pablo and Suisun bays (the name literally translates to ‘against the coast’)—but Mount Diablo’s influence is also undeniable. The county’s a weird mix of wealthy bedroom communities and complicated urban centers, farmland and heavy industry—think Kensington and Blackhawk and Orinda, but also Antioch and Richmond; Brentwood cherry orchards and cornfields, but also Walnut Creek shopping malls, Martinez oil refineries and Clayton mercury mines. And certainly, grapes—there are hundred-year-old zinfandel, carignan and mourvedre plantings, artifacts from a prolific winemaking past before Prohibition turned growers’ attention to pears and walnuts.

"…Contra Costa’s microproducers have no particular reputation to live up to—it’s an unsexy region, considered a provincial backwater by many. Winemaking culture here is not established the way it is in Sonoma or Napa counties; we had it, but it died out during Prohibition.

“…Contra Costa County is re-embracing its winemaking past in spite of a high cost of living and producing, a ‘residential’ context especially in zones like Lamorinda…”.


Producers mentioned in the article:

· Thal Vineyards

· Meadowview Winery

· Los Arabia Vineyards

· Raisin d’Etre Vineyards



Lamorinda Wine Growers Association website:
https://lamorindawinegrowers.com/

LWGA member wineries:
https://lamorindawinegrowers.com/153-2/

The USGS website’s map database includes ~40 plates (downloadable gridmap images) documenting the uses of land in the San Francisco Bay area as of 1970. The maps were published in 1973.

I only wish that more recent maps were available!

USGS National Geologic Map Database
Atlas of urban and regional change, San Francisco Bay region, California
1973

"Map Scale: 1:62,500

North Latitude: 38° 50’ 17" N (38.8380)
South Latitude: 36° 49’ 26" N (36.8240)
East Longitude: 121° 2’ 24" W (-121.0400)
West Longitude: 123° 30’ 0" W (-123.5000)"


One possible use these 48-year-old maps today is that they could confirm (theoretically) whether a certain vineyard has existed since 1970. Keep in mind that these are official government documents


Detail of “Plate #3”: NE Contra Costa (including Antioch, left of center, and Oakley, right)


Can you find the “Evangelho Vineyard”?

Link for all 44 plates:
https://pubs.er.usgs.gov/publication/ofr73322

“Atlas of Urban and Regional Change, San Francisco Bay Region, Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, Napa, San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Solano, and Sonoma Counties, California”
Open-File Report: 73-322
By: U.S. Geological Survey

To my understanding, here is how each map was created:

Aerial images from 1970 first were copied. Then, all observed parcels were recorded on new maps with their respective “land use” recorded. Plots whose function had been redesignated were labeled with an asterisk.


Parcels marked “L AV” are “Agriculture - Vineyard, Orchard”, while “L AF” indicates “Agriculture - Field Crop”, etc.

The “Evangelho Vineyard” is near the middle of the map, just to the left of the vertical line running down the image, marked with “L AV”. At least two residential properties (“RS”) are smack dab in the middle of the vines.

The Bedrock Wine Company’s Fall Release included the 2020 vintage of “Evangelho Vineyard” Contra Costa red wine:


"2020 Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Wine

"Over the course of thousands of years, granitic sand was deposited on the edge of the Sacramento River Delta in an area that stretches from the eastern edge of Antioch to the far side of Oakley. Over 130 years ago, people started planting grapevines, almonds, apricots, and other fruit in these deep, well-drained sands. In 1936, Manuel Evangelho purchased some of these grapevines, which he farmed his entire life before passing them to his son Frank. Frank farmed the vineyard with care and a rough-hewn tenderness until passing the torch to us in 2017. He passed away not long after, but I know he would be proud of the way the vineyard looks, the wines coming from it and its growing reputation. That the 2018 was recently on the pairing menu at the Michelin 3-star restaurant Le Bernardin in New York may have floored him, or he might have just smiled and said, ‘it’s about time.’ (Manuel and Frank were the two most recent from a long line of Azorean fisherman, so Evangelho being served at one of the greatest fish restaurants in the world seems poetically just.)

"In 2020, Evangelho cropped at the lowest levels in over twenty years, and the resulting wine is dense, deft, and full of energy. The natural freshness imparted by the afternoon winds and sandy soils drives through the wine, knitting the juiciness of the Zinfandel with the savory Mataro and bright Carignan. A classic Evangelho.

"Podcast minute mark: Part 1, 43:46 "


Bedrock Wine Company website:
https://bedrockwineco.com/

I just wanted to thank everyone for all the research and postings! I grew up in Antioch in Beede Park, which is Wilber and A Street, so I know the area well. Of course, at the time I had no idea the significance of these vineyards that I drove by with some frequency over the years, so I love being able to take a deep dive now with context. [thankyou.gif]

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Thanks for chiming in, Christine!! [cheers.gif]

If you happen to make another nostalgic amble through your old stomping grounds, please do take a few photos for us!!!

I love the contrast of wizened old vines and beach-like sand.

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