Bilbao

Creating a thread just for Bilbao.

Seems to get lumped with other places in nothern Spain, but I found a lot going on there.

Historical posts:

We landed in Madrid July 31st in the morning. Grabbed a rental car and drove north to Bilbao.

Fascinating drive. Browns and dried out attempts at green throughout the flat lands. Scrubby flora.

Stayed at The Artist Grand Hotel of Art | best 5 star hotel in Bilbao (hoteltheartist.com).

Very nice location with views overlooking the Guggenheim. Quiet. Some interesting things on the wine list. There is a deck that looks over the city and we enjoyed the way the sunset hit the roof of the gug.

There is a very tall, quite, as the bellman put it, phalic, stone pillar in the lobby and fancy art all over.

The staff are helpful. English, spanish, french, and euskara are all spoken. Probably others.

All in all, good spot and I’d recommend.




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Home is NYC. I do not like the Guggenheim there. We abandoned our memberships there last year and moved to the Met. I also don’t really enjoy modern architecture.

Having said that, the Guggenheim in Bilbao is fantastic in form and function. This is a MUST visit.

The variety of exhibitions is diverse.
The building itself is a wonder - a different work of art from every angle you view it and at every time of day.
The staff are courteous.

We only had an afternoon so squeezed it all in. The tickets are full day and we should have done half in the morning and half later. Alas.


There is a park across from the building, I would have liked to picnic in that and watched the sunset on the walls. Next time!

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Found this place via Google reviews (4.9 stars over 5k reviews). https://www.hdhbilbao.com/

Was suspicious.

Top 5 burgers of my life.

The house special is only cooked rare (not typically my choice. You can only have it on the focaccia. You cannot have the focaccia on another burger (yes - I had asked)

it wasn’t moo’ing, but I kept an ear open.

Better service than most Michelin restaurants. Polite, attentive, but not overly, friendly, decent chat. Quick to clean up a spill.

House beer is fine, not great. Chips lovely.

Tables have to be reserved.

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We’ve spent 2 out of 3 New years in Bilbao.

My carnivore children like Amaren.

The market is great.

Cafe Bar Bilbao when out and about

Txirine was fun.

Nerua, 1* in the Guggenheim I didn’t really get. Worth a look maybe. Larruzz a few doors down for more homely rice dishes.

Le Cork is a great wine bar.

Enjoy.

I’d add that there aren’t really any New Year’s Eve celebrations. People tend to stay home and then go out about 1-2am. We saw many thousands on their way home between 6 and 9.

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Le Cork is gold.

Posted up for 2hrs with Jonathan (som/co-owner?). Wealth of knowledge.

Best pintxos for me was cod on garlic, onion, and diced peppers. Fantastic bite.

Wine list is Excellent. Super deep on Commando G. Great prices on board and Very good on list.




La inglesa fino rama - clear, strong yellow tinge with green flints, Quickly forming heavy legs, nose is very “sherry” for lack of a better term - that slight penny meets wood note. little raw like something from a freshly cracked can. Peach under heavy water? Mouth starts more fruit forward and sweet ripe. Finished with a green olive note. It’s very tasty. Redressing. I would happily have again and pair with food. It evolves in the glass. Great stuff for 7.80 euro a glass. From magnum.

Ancestral hontza “vendedor de humo” (Álava) - pink red color. Clear. Bubbles small and go quickly. Two tiers of legs one forming quickly the other slowly. The second tear forms but then becomes a sheet and folds down into the wine. Something natural on the nose. Toasted baguette slice. And faint berry basket. Some strawberry and rhubarb throughout palate and on finish. Longer finish of acid and berry. enjoyable. Not complex, not terribly evolving. Would not turn away at all

Izaki creature Alfredo egia '22 - Clear, light yellow tint. Medium forming legs. Nose is reductive. Mouth sharper refreshing. Medium finish that lingers with a touch of refreashing bitterness. Some reduction blows off and mouth Opens and fruit (ripe pear supporting apples) in mouth is much better. This is north of average. A good and thoughtful wine.

Ghaur getariako txakolina 2022 - Feels very classic. Like it is supposed to be. Clear, light yellow tint. Medium foarming legs. Slightly floral and mineral nose. Mouth is just ripe melon some salt, more mineral again, some prickly pear. The experience is gentle, but the result refreshing. Not mind-blowing, but true to style and enjoyable. Very qpr .

Vernatxa frisach ‘21 - Clear, slightest tint of yellow. Touch natural, orchard fruit, some floral, some citrus spritz. Mouth almost a touch of Riesling petrol some gentle stone fading.

Xpertvinum - Fascinating an unfermented sherry wine. Mouth sherry (?). Finish is medium plus. And dry. Drying sensation drives the mouth to water. Wild, could not drink a bottle. But loved having a class. Good wine.

Beltza doniene gorrondona ‘21 - Nose is black olives all day. They refer to it as ‘Ash’. A little chocolate. Tannins in the mouth some well behaved dried cherries. Herbal notes. Drying. Tannins more on gums. Potential to develop here.

Solear saca de primavera ‘24 - Nose has a touch of caramel. Some roasted peeled almonds. Mouth is middle of fairway. Don’t swallow this the wrong way; has a rough side. Super solid. No flaws. Lovely.

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And I forgot. So affordable!

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I stayed there when it was still called the “Silken Gran Hotel Domine”. Yes, nice hotel - small but chic, good service; and very conveniently located. I also quite enjoyed eating/drinking and whiling away time in the old Cafe Irvña (a short walk away); nice pintxos/tapas, especially their grilled upon order pinchos moruños.

While I prefer medium rare, I’d love this.

London, while so great for so many different styles of cuisine, has plenty of room to grow here. Most restaurants will refuse to even do medium-rare. Most will claim to do medium and what comes out is closer to medium-well.

Do not forget the giant flower dog. We were there last year. It was a great trip.

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I would add that Asador Etxebarri, a mere 30 minute drive from Bilbao, is one of the finest dining experience in the region today.

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