Virtual Tasting Series Week 10.5: Premox Smemox, the chardonnay from Burgundy

Despite a white Burg dinner being just a day away, Bryan and I decided to get an early start. We did not do well. We popped a bottle of 2006 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru en Remilly. It was corked. We immediately returned to the store and exchanged it for another…which turned out to be horribly oxidized. Hope to have better luck tomorrow!

Been battling a severe head cold so I haven’t had much wine of late…but just couldn’t take it anymore…especially after this thread from FU about white burgs…which is my fav too! So…cracked this one…and it really hasn’t changed since my last note(which is a GOOD thing!)…so here is the lazy tn…

  • 2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (1/31/2014)
    THE wine that started my obsession into Burgundy…I’ve had a half a case or so since the first time in '09…and it still continues to please! It’s got that fresh yellow gold and green color…cool sea air, honey butter, smoky flint match strike, pit fruit nose. In the mouth, still laser beam lemon/lime acidity, that cuts nicely through a somewhat creamy and ripe meld of pitted orchard fruit, and tangy citrus. Age has brought on a calmness as well as complexities of hazelnut, almond oil, dried apple…pretty florals, and chalky minerals. Really tasty Meursault, holding well…wish I could drink this everyday! (94 pts.)

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Brian, thanks for posting the photo. It looks so lovely in the glass!

Exchanged last night’s premoxed bottle, and the manager asked why I’m crazy enough to buy even slightly aged white Burgs. Gotta chase the dragon! :wink:

This was a real nice bottle of burg. Terrific.

  • 2008 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (2/1/2014)
    Opened this last night. The fruit on this wine, the core of it drinks fantastic. Lots of lemon zest defining the wine (and aromatic) with some green/yellow apple in there too. On top of it lies some smoky oak accents, that when warmer in temp, adds a lemon brulee note. Despite some of the oak, what livens this wine is plenty of acid and it drives clear through into the finish. I pulled this without thinking and checking, without any expectations, and this is a refreshing surprise. This is my last bottle as I only had bought one but if I had others, I would age this for another 2 years, and then I assume (pox aside), that it would drink well through 2017 or 2018.

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  • 1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (2/2/2014)
    This is a wow level wine. Popped the cork 3 hours before dinner, but the wine didn’t really get going until 2 hours into dinner. It turns into this delicious expansive palate of heavy complex flavors. Deep concentration of fruit and nut with a touch of mushroom showing a hint of its age. The craziest thing about this wine is how powerful the acidity is, mixed in with the minerality belies a level of tension that is astounding. Balance it all with the depth of flavor and you have your WOTN!
  • 1992 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (2/2/2014)
    This wine is a testament to the fact that older whites need air. Popped about 3 hours before dinner, but showed slight oxidative notes. Not until it was tossed into a decanter at dinner did the wine blossom. As other notes have indicated, it really firms up with significant air exposure. Beautiful light gold color. Freshness with medium concentration of tropical fruit, really round on the palate. The wine has a seamlessness to it that just glides on the palate.
  • 1999 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (2/2/2014)
    The baby of our white burg dinner. Fred opened it 4 hours before dinner, it never really gave up much. Had a steeliness on the palate that seems typical of 99. As the night went on, I felt like the power that H. Boillot is known for was trying to peek out as you can start to taste that density of fruit but the wine just needed time. There was a zest in the background, but still needing more time. I was actually very surprised how little it was giving up as the 00/02/04 chevs have been drinking wonderful in the past year or so.

But who can complain about a 99 white burg being too youthful? :wink:. Seems this wine is built for the long run.

  • 2000 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (2/2/2014)
    I strongly believe that the Enseigneres is the most satisfying village wine that Coche Dury makes. In every vintage it shows off so much power and complexity. Wine was double decanted a few hours before dinner to let some of the SO2 dissipate.

The palate was so powerful and deep. There were so many intense fruit flavors going on with that prickly back end of zesty minerality that coche is known for. Long concentrated finish. This wine has stuffing for dayssssssss

  • 2010 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (2/2/2014)
    Served blind. Popped and poured into a decanter. Fabulous wine. Even in its youth, might be one of the best 1er Chablis I’ve had in a long while. This vintage does the wine well. It tempers the ripeness of the fruit with plenty of acidity. There is a fullness to the wine and wonderful structure. A touch of oak framed the palate but I think with age this is gonna be a hell of a wine.
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C. Fu, Really interested in the note on the progress of that Chablis–tasted that with Isabelle in '11.

2001 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières

Actually - this is really damn good, I need to up the score. Pretty floral nose with white flowers, the palate is thick and juicy with lots of butterscotch. Love the finish. Drinking perfectly right now. (93 pts.)

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2005 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (2/2/2014)
God…damnit,
I’ve only had a few white Burgs before and usually in the context of large tastings like berserkerfests and the like. I own a little bit of everything so when Charlie decided to have the weekly virtual tasting at WB centered around white Burgs I pulled the first one I found. I really wasn’t thinking I would love this wine. I certainly don’t need more stuff to chase. Well I’m screwed. My first thought, which is very unusual to me was “man…that’s a pretty looking wine.” The nose on this is intriguing with almonds, marzipan, apricot pit, and just a hint of sherry that had me thinking great, not only am I not going to like this but it’s oxidized so I won’t really know. The palate is simply great. The flavors come in waves and, like waves retreat and let something else in with each sip. Here some apricot, there some more almond and that marzipan note. Some salinity and citrus notes as well. It feels like it has heft one moment and then it’s fresh and clean. Damn you Mr. Fu. My wife, who does not like wine comes by just now and says hey! That is a pretty wine! And takes a sip. She asked if I had the rest of the bottle somewhere. I nodded and she drained the glass. She said if all my wines tasted like that she might show interest. Great wine.

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Now THAT is a tasting note!
Thanks Humberto

Humberto, Henri Boillot is my new favorite source of white Burgundies. I have several Puligny 1er cru wines from 2009 and 2010 plus one Volnay Les Fremiets.

Same here, I’m waiting on some 2011 Combottes and Mouchere to come in. Really looking forward to them.

I had some luck last week with a 2001 so I decided to cross my fingers and go a little further back in time and see what a 1985 had to offer. Both pictures below are of the '85 Chaumees.

2001 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Beautiful goldenrod color. Unctuous nose of vanilla, tropical fruit and sulfur. Early on the fore-palate showed all tropical fruit, oak, vanilla and butter which was then met with a wall of stoniness and a racy edge. Over about an hour these flavors came together and it showed a concentrated minerality framed by toasted oak and a sharp spiciness. Long finish. Good.

1985 Hubert Bouzereau-Gruère et Filles Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Straw colored in the glass with a honey tint. In the bottle this takes on a deeper honey color. Toasted toffee and caramel nose. Oak is fully integrated, leaving a residual toastiness that rounds out the still strong acid and prevents it from being shrill on the palate. On that note, the wine is still fresh and vibrant with a sharp leading edge. There is a strong identity coming through in the essence of chalky limestone. The palate also reveals some singed orange peel and charcoal characteristics. Good to very good. After 2 hours it began to fade and gave way to some sherry-like oxidized notes.

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Great topic Charlie.
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2011 Coche-Dury Meursault: Loads of Coche flint on the nose along with some aniseed and white peach. It is so tight with a mineral and floral edge. It is built like red wine with a huge puff of chalky extract on the finish. Great cut, potential and balance, just needs time

2002 Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux: Fully mature but not oxidised. Smells of river rocks drizzled with honey. Full in the mouth with flavours that have a touch of the exotic. There’s some fresh lemon acidity on the finish.

crap–I hate posting after Jeremy

  • 2009 Domaine de la Cadette Bourgogne Vézelay La Châtelaine - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Vézelay (2/3/2014)
    Honeyed green apple and sharp ginger with a full, creamy palate. Even a little white pepper and citrus, mostly lemon zest. Maybe a little untoasted coriander seed on the finish.
    This domaine was formed as part of a coop I think with some help from Marc Meneau and Bernard Raveneau back in the 90s. There is definitely a foot in Chablis but this version in the hot year of 09 is a little too fat for what I am craving. Even though the oak is neutral I find that it imparts too much body which detracts from the natural lean minerality of this site. The 08 of this wine was wonderful, lean Chablis. In 09 they went whole cluster for reasons I will never understand. It is still fun, just not the acidic drink I was craving. I wish I had another case of the 08.

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I picked up a 2000 of this over summer, after having the 2000 with another board member earlier in 2013. That 2000 was aging so well, still fresh. Need to find a reason to chill mine and open it with a good meal. Leave it to Charlie to lock your wife into white burg. [rofl.gif]

Henri Boillot is my only direct allocation for Burgundy and I’m so ecstatic that I get it. He has a certain more forward, concentrated style but the wines are so pleasurable. The 05’s are particularly tasty. Search out the Domaine version of the genevrieres (make sure it says Domaine Henri Boillot on the label, as he has a non domaine version as well). An absolutely FANTASTIC wine for the price. The 02 Corton Charlemagne, batard and chev montrachet are also drinking insanely good.

Also be on the lookout for the 2010s, those are super tasty as well. Heritage wine auction tends to have a lot during the auctions at damn near release pricing!

I wonder how many of these producers use whole cluster? Seems interesting, never even thought one would do that!

Is anyone else posting as many notes as they can so Charlie has to pay more?