Will be spending some time in Italy this coming year, and my cellar holding of Italian wines is low, and that’s because my knowledge of Italian wines is poor, at best.
I’d like to order a few things and find a few interesting things. To get the suggestions in the best shape possible— my preference lies with low-intervention. I’m listing a few regions here with producers I do know and have in my cellar or have enjoyed before. No Conterno for me in the past but I’ll spring for some if the price is OK. Curious to hear what the favorites are of the regions. Also any reading sources are welcome, to further broaden my horizon.
At that price point you can get nearly anything. So:
Tuscany. Fuligni and Poggio di Sotto are some of my favorites. But to get good at experiences with young Sangiovese maybe try some of the top end Rossos. Poggio di Sotto & Salvioni are both excellent.
In Chianti, Montevertine is great. Pergole Torte with some age. There are many great producers though.
Piedmont. Cappellano, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Bartolo Mascarello, GB Burlotto.
For Piedmont, I’ve been eyeing that quartet for a while now. Is there any of the four you’d consider more of a traditionalist to understand the style of the area?
The above names for Piedmont are all highly regarded, and certainly for a good reason. That being said, I think you could get a more interesting spread of data by allowing the net to be widened a bit.
Mads, o boy do I have quite a list of producers for you, will take a bit of time though due to size and time restrains.
In the meanwhile the one book for Italy you definitely need is Ian D’Agata’s Native wine grapes of Italy.
The second book a really recommend because it’s ann incredible work of art and deeper insight is Masnaghetti’s book about Chianti. His Barolo volumes anre also terrific.
If/when you pass by Amsterdam I have some fun things to try for you.
@OwenJ Thanks! Burlotto seems to come highly recommended.
In my quick encounter with Trediberri, it seemed to me that it’s a bit more of a modern take? Am I wrong in seeing it that way?
@Mikael_OB Tak! I will check out the books. I think from our previous tasting, what I won’t be seeking out is Solaia. I didn’t get it, at all. But you and I share some love for the Friulian wines.
They’re all pretty traditional. One thing about the top names in Piedmont (or any region) - they’re the best because they’re really good AND distinctive. They stand out. Are they representative of the style of an area? Or more themselves? Answer: yes.
I really think to understand the style of an area you need to try a few dozen (hundred?) bottles from a wide variety of producers. Multiply that by the 10 or 20 interesting regions of Italy and … yea, going to take some time.
I know exactly why you won’t seek it out - could be wrong but think I have a good idea of which Italian producers you will be excited about. As for varieties during that exploration, that’s a whole other question.
That’s a fair take on it, Richard. And I hardly have the dedication for that, I think— but that could change
I’d hate myself for picking French wines on an italian list, so if just one of these producer suggestions(and hopefully accompanying info) pays off to broaden my view a bit, then it’s great.
@Shan_A Thank Shan! A pattern is starting to form.
@Mikael_OB Yep shoot me something when you have it!
This is a crazy good list, much better than I could come up with. I just want to second that ArPePe in Lombardy makes some absolutely singular wines. They are wizards with Nebbiolo - definitely among my top producers in all of Italy.
Their only problem is that the Riservas often need +20 years to really come around! They can be amazing, but also often very austere and forbidding in their youth. Nevertheless, they are truly beautiful wines.
@Otto_Forsberg Coming thru! Yes! Bunch of fun names there I forgot myself, including the final boss of farmer spumante, Camillo Donati. Ah yes ArPePe should be on my final list, as I heard so many good things. This will be handy should I sit with a deep localised list.
Would love to find some old Maga and ArPePe.
@SamA What you’re saying there is also really important, as there’s so many local grapes, which all need some attention in this.
The reason I (think) I know exactly why is that I certainly felt the same after that bottle.
A lot of good suggestions and Otto rarely lacks in effort and thoroughness - and you’ll see quite some overlap with him and others good suggestions.
I will straight off nick his order and omit if I don’t have anything special to add.
Abruzzo
Except the big two (which I haven’t had much of), I would definitely add Tiberio to the considerations. The top bottlings are excellent, however my focus are their whites even if I have a 2018 Archivo waiting to be be opened (maybe I feel otherwise and need to expand the focus).
Personally I really like the Pecorino (recently also special bottling is available) and Trebbiano Abruzzese wines.
Aosta Valley
Grosjean (a 2016 Rovettaz was terrrific)
Basilicata
Grifalco
Elena Fucci, have perhaps found it a bit heavy on the oak early after release (will check in on a 2012 and leave a note)
Campania
Mastroberardino can be very good and probably the most reliable producer.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
This would be my short list, and easy to add on many more:
La Castellada (white and red wines)
Franco Terpin if you want the more intense side of natural wine (haven’t had faulty bottles but these are more about energy then finless)
Skerk (Ograde)
Ronchi di Cialla - They will never call themselves natural or natural leaning but few have more biodiversity in and around their vineyards. Basically everything, the only thing I have been less excited about is the Fruliano and for the Ribolla Gialla I think it makes a difference if the bottle comes from the first or second lot.
Borut Blažič: partially cheating as they have vineyards on both sides of the border. Go for the top bottlings (especially the whites), I haven’t easily found their wines so take the opportunity when/if you are there.
Lazio
Ribela
Lombardy**
ArPePe
Dirupi: I was quite impressed at a tasting where other terrific Nebbiolo producers were present like Burlotto
Piedmont
Agree with Otto, feels like you could spend half a lifetime exploring here. I will try to add some other grape considerations as well because even if the other varieties carries the same status…
Some I would add to my list:
F. Principiano: everything across the range is very well made and with top drinkability and meaning. Except the Barolos, try dolcetto, barbera (one of few I personally enjoy), white wine
Sandri: Nebbiolo wines yes, dolcetto yes - was one of my surprise wow wines with a bit of age about two years ago
Bartolo Mascarello: I have missed out on the barolo wines so far (not so easy to get hold of a reasonable prices), however the Freisa is very good, as is the dolcetto - I prefer them after a few years in bottle
Burlotto: Yes, but personally I would rather focus on the Barolo wines (in good vintage the other bottlings as well)
Cavallotto - Even the the LN is quite impressive
San Fereolo: For the dolcettos
Other: like Giacomo Fenocchio, Cogno, Bovia, Porro
Alto-P: Le Piane and Colombera & Garella
Sardinia
Tenute Dettori: like Otto mentioned, can be heavy in alcohol, lower % years are more fun. Wines of contrast with both elegance, lightness as well as weight.
Trentino
Foradori: Even the entry red is very good. The wines evolves very slow and the top bottling I enjoyed the most (have posted about it somewhere here as well) is the Sgarzon.
Tuscany
Glossy super toscans are not for you
Definitely agree with La Trame ( le Boncie)
Also perhaps some CC: like Caparsa, Castell’in Villa and Istine
