The first caveat is that I don’t like rose and usually only have one or two bottles in my cellar. And since rose’s emergence as beverage of everyone and anyone, it has given producers an excuse to make even more industrial plonk for the masses so one needs to be extra careful. Most of that wine just has that rose tinge on it and not much else. It’s fine to knock back at a summer party but most of it doesn’t have the complexity that I like in wine.
There is great rose out there beyond Lopez de Heredia, which is the wine geek default Rose, which is good wine, but there are just as good and better out there. I have starred out the producers with whom we have a relationship.
This list is probably one of the most personal of all these lists. It is in no particular order.
Chateau Simone Rose - There is no other rose like it in the world of wine. Made from Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah, Castet, Carignan, Manosquin and various Muscats, this transcends rose and is more of heavier white in body like a Meursault, yet has incredible acidity and texture. Huge flavor impact and so much minerality. Every bottle is really a dozen bottles of wine it changes so much over the course of a day. Palate has always fascinated me and this wine, because of the natural vine amphitheater that is Palate can only be made here. Expensive for a rose but can age 10-15 years easy.
Bernard Baudry Chinon Rose - Always reliable and always so refreshing, complex and medium to full bodied but still nimble and feather like. So pure and deep like a rose or Les Granges. There is a wonderful mouthfeel here and more body than one would expect as this made in the Baudry style and from 100% Cabernet Franc. Can age but why?
Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rose - The big beast. Mourvèdre rose made in a heavy, rich, yet dynamic and fresh style. This is Pradeaux after all. Bigness and freshness go hand in hand. I love this. If I drank rose this is the one I’d have a case around of. It’s really deep and structured for a rose which makes it all sorts of fun.
******* & **** Spatburgunder Rose - Now this wine when it is on it is astonishing. It’s got rich Pinot fruit on an elegant, lithe frame, with real depth and layering. Drinks like a light red wine with an over abundance of fruit that defies its color. But the '13 is in an awful place now and shouldn’t be opened for 2-5 years. It will age for 10-12 years which is unusual for rose.
Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose - Arguably the top wine on this list. Amazing delicacy and complexity and of course the famous ability to age. I’ve had 20 year old Cotat Rose that is just lovely and in no danger of slowing down. 100% Pinot Noir and so evocative of Chavignol. So long and top notch finesse, texture and freshness. I love this wine.
Pascal Cotat Sancerre Rose - All that I said about Francois can be repeated ad nauseum for Pascal.
Lopez De Heredia Vina Tondonia Rosato - Rarer now than it used to be but still this is the standby of the geek crowd. Savory and deep with an uncanny ability to age plus it is released many years after harvest. I don’t live for it like I used to but I will drink it.
Lucien Crochet Sancerre Rose - For me this is a step down from the Cotat versions but all in all a lovely wine with sweet Pinot fruit, lovely acids, serious minerality and amazing balance and most importantly it is great every year.
Domaine *********** Bourgogne Rose “Cuvee Les Champans” - Not yet offered in the States. Painfully low yields and a dedication I’ve seen in few winemakers. It is just gorgeous. Like Volnay Rose but better. So aromatic and silky with loads of luscious fruit. It ages beautifully as the only vintage I’ve tasted was two bottles of the '11.
****** ***** Rose - Made by an experienced winemaker in Valtellina. Pretty much God’s strawberry soda. One of the freshest, cleanest roses I’ve tasted. Made from 100% nebbiolo, which is pretty cool. It has none of that irritating “rose-ness” about it. A bit of spritz adds to the overall appeal. Not something I was expecting to find in Valtellina, but you learn never to be surprised in this business.
Warning: I own a stake in a wine retailer that may have sold these wines in the past or may sell these wines in the future. Obviously, we will try to sell wines that we think are best in class. This is not an offer as we are not selling any of them now. If my writing does inspire you to buy these wines, please buy them from someone else. Better yet, save your money and spend it on something else. Like a nice haircut.
Does anyone else have a top rose list?
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