I was the host for this month, allowing me to build some flights I had wanted to put in front of the group for some time. We had the good fortune also this month of having @ToddFrench and @AstridKG join us in the guest chairs.
In short, my vision was to side-by-side the Chidaine chenin, which ultimately I edited when I opened the Choisilles in the morning and just felt it wasn’t at my serving standard. In place of that I slotted in the Marie Courtin still Pinot Noir, which looks like a white, and it performed very well as the replacement.
The two Champagnes were out of the norm given their compositions, which I thought would be a good brain teaser for the group. Ultimately, Astrid guessed them both, which again validates her smarts and senses as having a high-tuned palate, one of the best around here.
Finally, closed with the Copain syrahs. I have a handful of mixed sites and years left, so I landed on the mix we did last night. Man, that Hawks Butte is aging like a winner. And, as a side note, the Rousanne showed like a real winner, too. One thing about Wells Guthrie, he knew how to make great stuff, and he (in my view after 2006) stopped caring about Parker, the scores and he went the way of his vision and this unchained him to make these kinds of wines.
I have some of the leftover bottles to retry tonight, and if my perceptions change, I will amend my notes.
Thanks to the group for last night, and thanks for reading.
BOOKCLUB (SERVED BLIND)--MY TURN - Foretti's in Corona Del Mar (4/11/2024)
All wines were selected from my cellar and served blind, except for the Choisilles. Wines were opened at 1130am, then served starting at 530pm. The Hawks Butte and Rousanne both had dried corks that blew up when I tried to pull them. So, those wines were strained through a metal kitchen screen to remove the cork pieces, infusing both of these wines with 2 decants each before being returned to their clean bottles.
Chidaine Choisilles--Is It Over The Hill?
- 2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Choisilles - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
I opened one of these 7 years ago and my comment then was 'no signs of fading'. However, the bottle I opened last night for the group was in my view past its peak. The color has become golden. There is still some wool and light petrol in the aroma and some honeyed peach, yet the acidity and freshness has left the wine, leaving instead a sour apple and bitter grapefruit signature. I elected to not blind the group on this wine, removing it from the lineup and we simply tasted it as the starter to the evening. One smart palate tried it and then it went right to the dump bucket. In sum, I am glad this is the last bottle I own, but I will keep the great memories of when this Choisilles was in its prime.
Some Mixed Whites To Test The 'Ol Brain
- 2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
Over 8 years since I opened one of these. At that time, the wine was much fresher, and I expect over time the aging process to ensue. It has aged here, although much less so than the 2010 Choisilles I was trying to pair with the Tuffeaux. We ended up neither drinking much of the Choisilles and a few guys just dumped it on first taste. On the other hand, this Tuffeaux is in better shape. It has the same gold color of Choisilles, yet the fruit is better defined, with golden apple and apricot/stone fruit. There is some caramel riding into the wine now, too. This is still hanging in there but I would not keep aging these, and instead get going with what you have remaining now. - 2018 Marie Courtin Coteaux Champenois Le Blanc du Tremble - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
100% still Pinot Noir that shows clear in the glass. Made in amphorae without S02. I served this blind last night, wedged in between an older Chidaine Tuffeaux, and an older Copain Rousanne. The impact of being in between these two wines made it even better. A few guesses that the wine was Chablis, which makes sense given the soil where Tremble is anchored. There were also references to sea air and oysters. How cool is that! For me, tart pineapple with a crisp apple-like fruit and salinity. Finish has a delicious yet cleansing quality. Towards the end of the meal, Chris S pointed out the red apple note that had come through the wine, which is consistent with my previous bottle. Think about red apple skin, it's that kind of flavor. Overall, this really seemed to resonate at the table, and it's in a good place to drink, with plenty of refreshing structure to go with the fruit. Gonna look for the 2019. - 2006 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
This stuff is aging so well, and when I revealed the wine to the table from under the bag, I think everyone was surprised on how well this is doing at almost 2 decades old. Lightly oily texture with some petrol in the aroma. Plenty of acid yet what is most notable is the balance, freshness and the clear color that this is maintaining. It has a light savory note but beyond that, I just don't find much to say 'this wine is becoming old'. I last had this at the winery with Wells in 2017 just before he left Copain for good, and back then I liked the wine but to think it's been 7 years since that time, the wine seems to have budged very little. Bravo!
A Few Unordinary Champagnes (ironically too, that are not Brut Zero!)
- NV Pierre Gerbais Champagne (perpetual 2011 - 2018) La Loge - France, Champagne
Disgorged October 2022, 100% old vine Pinot Blanc (80 years old), with 3 gms of dosage. This wine seemed well-received at the table, and I concur. This bottle was as good as the one I had a few weeks ago. Mint, green apple, mineral and melon, plus a touch of pungent spice too, enough to just shade the wine. The density is just right and the wine is in good balance, with a flavor profile that is delicious. - NV Laherte Frères Champagne Les 7 Extra Brut (perpetual 2005-2020) - France, Champagne
Disgorged October 2022. 4 grams of dosage. This is the 2020 base, with the perpetual inclusion back to 2005 (the plot was planted in 2003, and is still horse farmed as the total surface of this plot is pretty small). It's a blend of all 7 approved cepages, with varying ratios of just 8% for the Arbanne, up through 18% each for the Chardonnay and Meunier. Aroma here is distinctive, kinda leesy to me although Astrid used plantain when we were discussing the wine. Tension with good savory citrus. Saved a glass of the wine under stopper, will retry again this evening (from last night's remainder).
Some Older Copain Syrah--Visiting Some Old Friends
- 2010 Copain Syrah Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
From my older Copain fight last night which I did blind for the group: 2010 Brosseau, 2007 Hawks Butte and 2011 Halcon. All of these wines were 'only one left' bottles, which have been in my cellar for quite some time as I wanted to find the right time to do them all blind. Picked last night to put them in front of the group. I've opened a lot of bottles of this wine since release, and despite well over a decade now in bottle, it still has the Brosseau fruit signature that has always had a soft spot in my heart. Purple fruited nose with metal shaving and maybe a touch of soap. The tell-tale blue/purple fruit, that is now becoming a little tangy with some charcoal. Over time it has lost that deep cut of crushed rocks and is now well into its maturing phase. I'd say this is in a good place to drink, and given its more fruit-forward signature, I would recommend enjoying this now to capture that essence. My final bottle, goodbye old friend! - 2011 Copain Syrah Halcon Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
From my older Copain fight last night which I did blind for the group: 2010 Brosseau, 2007 Hawks Butte and 2011 Halcon. All of these wines were 'only one left' bottles, which have been in my cellar for quite some time as I wanted to find the right time to do them all blind. Picked last night to put them in front of the group. The Halcon was the least compelling for me. It showed some light black pepper on the aromatic, but it's now subtle. Tangy, tar and medium weight and it's just a little rough around the edges. It's also the least balanced of the trio, and I think as good as it's gonna be. - 2007 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
From my older Copain fight last night which I did blind for the group: 2010 Brosseau, 2007 Hawks Butte and 2011 Halcon. All of these wines were 'only one left' bottles, which have been in my cellar for quite some time as I wanted to find the right time to do them all blind. Picked last night to put them in front of the group. I have drank just under 2 cases of this wine over the years, as it's consistently brought me great joy and contemplation. Last night's bottle, while it's my final one, remains delicious and is a credit to what Wells did with syrah once he decided to make the shift way back in 2007. This wine reflects that shift of lowering his alcohols, dropping the new oak way down, etc. Nose has a bloody/marrow quality. The fruit is dark-tined, with olive, game and light leather. And even with all of the age this has seen, the concentration remains, the wine seems youthful to me and is aging so well. If I had more of this (or can find more when it pops up), I will buy it. What a winner this was and continues to be!
Posted from CellarTracker