Continuation to our never-ending series of tastings on the wines of Jura.
If you happen to be interested, here are the previous iterations on the same theme:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Nothing surprising here. Basically all the stuff was from the extremely natural end of the spectrum. As was expected, Ganevat whites and Labet performed really well, whereas Ganevat reds were (again) a disappointment. The other new names (Zeroine, Avis de Tempête) were pretty nice, but maybe a bit too natty - unlike that Allante & Boulanger wine.
Ironically, I think my WotN of this Jura tasting was the blind extra I popped open after the tasting proper - a red by La Grange Tiphaine from Touraine, Loire. To my understanding, they make wines in a pretty hands-off fashion, too, but style-wise this was noticeably more conventional compared to the Jura wines we tasted this time.
- 2020 Zeroine Côtes du Jura JuCha - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11.9.2023)
A naturalist Chardonnay by Maylis Barnard ("mrs. JF Ganevat"), made with fruit sourced from three vineyards in and around Rotalier, Jura. Lot number L20. 13% alcohol.
Pale golden yellow. The nose feels wild and quite waxy with aromas of ripe yet a bit neutral white fruits, some apricot tones, a little bit of lifted nail polish VA, light creamy oak tones and a hint of salty ocean air. The wine feels dry, firm and somewhat wild on the palate with a medium body and tangy flavors of waxy funk and saline minerality, some ripe citrus fruits, a little bit of sharp Granny Smith apple, light crunchy notes of white currants, a lifted, volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of creamy oak. Bright high acidity. The wine feels ripe, sweet-toned and somewhat volatile with a medium-long aftertaste of saline minerality, some white peach, light crunchy notes of white currants, a little bit of nail polish VA and a mineral hint of wet rocks.
A balanced but also very generic naturalist white. Although the sweet nail polish VA feels somewhat pronounced, it fortunately never feels too much or distracting - at least to me. Maybe YMMV. My bigger beef with the wine was that it was so innocuous. It is somewhat recognizable for a Jura white with its high acidity and saline mineral tones, but there is nothing to set it apart from the plethora of other Jura naturalistas. While not a bad wine in any way, at approx. 50€ I think it is okay to expect something a bit more.
(86 points) - 2017 Avis de Tempête Cuvée 1 - France, Vin de France (11.9.2023)
100% Roussanne - the producer is located in Arbois, but the grapes are sourced from le soixante-treize, ie. Savoie (of which the department number is 73). Fermented spontaneously and without sulfites. 11,5% alcohol. Lot number R/2017.
Youthful, medium-deep lemon-yellow color. The nose feels rather big and quite fragrant with ripe aromas of yellow stone fruits, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of honeydew melon, light herby vegetal tones and a hint of exotic spice. The wine feels firm, dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and somewhat sauvage flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some mirabelle plum, light appley tones, a little bit of herby greenness, a hint of lifted VA and a touch of white balsamico. The high acidity lend good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, somewhat wild and rather long with a dry, acid-driven aftertaste of waxy funk and ripe stone fruits, some apple jam, a little bit of nail polish VA, light saline mineral tones and a vegetal hint of herby spice.
An enjoyably fresh, balanced and tasty little white. The nose is pretty lovely with its nuanced, layered aromatics, whereas on the palate the wine feels more like a generic natural wine with a bit elevated levels of VA. However, the funky tones and volatile qualities never get too distracting and the wine is thoroughly enjoyable all the same. Maybe a bit on the pricey side for its quality at approx. 25€.
(88 points) - 2021 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat La Croix des Batailles - France, Vin de France (11.9.2023)
Some sources say this is a Gamay, others say it is a 50/50 blend of Gamay and Chardonnay, yet others say it's a Pinot Noir. Go figure. At least it is vinified in a typical Ganevat fashion, ie. fermented spontaneously and bottled without fining, filtration or any added sulfites on July 20th, 2022. Lot number L2109PL. 12% alcohol.
Hazy, medium-deep ruddy-orange color. The nose feels reductive and funky with aromas of flatulent reduction, some smoky notes of struck flint, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant and a hint of rancid nuts, suggesting mousiness. The wine feels dry, crunchy and slightly fizzy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and somewhat sauvage flavors of fresh redcurrants, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of appley fruit, light flatulent notes of reduction and a vaguely mousy hint of sesame seeds. The wine is high in acidity but there are no tannins to speak of. The finish is long and dry with an acid-driven aftertaste of redcurrants, some skunky notes of sulfurous reduction, a little bit of saline minerality and a light yet perceptible hint of grainy mousiness.
Ehh. Otherwise this was just a simple, light and quite uninteresting little red (most likely a red-white blend, based on the very light color and somewhat appley flavors of the wine), which would've left a rather lukewarm impression in itself. However, the light yet still somewhat perceptible streak of mousiness took the wine from mediocre to worse. There are very few redeeming qualities in this wine. I should just learn to steer completely clear of these Ganevat nego reds.
(64 points) - 2021 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Poulprix - France, Vin de France (11.9.2023)
A blend of purchased Gamay from Morgon, Beaujolais (75%), and Poulsard and Savagnin from Jura (sometimes Enfariné as well) in unknown proportions. Aged for a year in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2 on 20th of July, 2022. 11,5% alcohol. Lot number L2111.
Pale-to-medium-deep cherry-red color. The nose feels pungent and heavily reductive with aromas of struck match, acrid smoke and some sulfurous tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light funky notes of animale and a hint of earth. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly lifted on the palate with a medium body and somewhat wild flavors of dark forest fruits, some volatile notes of nail polish, a little bit of cherry, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of earth and a touch of tangy salinity. The structure relies solely on the high acidity as there are no perceptible tannins. The finish is wild, crunchy and moderately long with a dry aftertaste of redcurrants and tangy salinity, some earthy tones, a little bit of tart cranberry, light stuffy reductive tones, a hint of gunpowder smoke and a touch of sweet red cherry.
A simple, straightforward and rather stuffy naturalist red that suffers from excessive reduction. Just as last time (with the 2018 vintage), I was positively surprised how the wine didn't turn mousy - it certainly feels like a wine that would develop mousy flavors very soon after opening a bottle! Otherwise the wine didn't leave a particularly memorable impression. Even if the 2018 we tasted a few years before wasn't a particularly thrilling effort, I think it was still a bit more interesting and enjoyable compared to this vintage. I wonder how Ganevat makes some of the most thrilling whites in Jura, but their reds are always a let-down?
(79 points) - 2018 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Côtes du Jura La Barraque - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11.9.2023)
100% Savagnin made with purchased old-vine fruit from an organically farmed vineyard. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 24 to 36 months (depending on the source) in old 500-liter demi-muids. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2. 14,5% alcohol.
There's quite a bit of sediment in the wine: the first pour or two are clear straw yellow, but the pours are quite cloudy, more reminiscent of pineapple juice - I heartily recommend to let the bottle stand upright and then decant it carefully. The nose is ripe yet sharp with subtly funky yet not particularly wild aromas of fresh Granny Smith apple, some saline oceanic tones, a little bit of leesy yeast, light sweet peachy notes, a hint of oxidative nuttiness, a touch of lifted eucalyptus character and a whiff of creamy oak. The wine feels ripe, concentrated and pretty structured on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of saline minerality, some juicy nectarine tones, a little bit of caramel, light funky nuances, a hint of oxidative nuttiness and a touch of fresh pineapple. The high alcohol lends some heat to the palate and the quite high acidity keeps the wine firm and structured. The lengthy finish is lively, concentrated and somewhat hot with an intense and slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of fresh pineapple, some nectarine, a little bit of honeyed richness, light funky tones, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of creaminess.
I was surprised how big and ripe this wine was - probably more ripe and concentrated than any other nego Ganevat white I've tasted. You can taste that the ripeness in the sweet-toned fruit flavors, high alcohol and sense of concentration, but true to the classic Jura Savagnin style, the wine is at the same time surprisingly fresh and balanced with an unmistakable streak of saline minerality that seems to be the hallmark of Jura's whites. Although I prefer the leaner, less opulent style of Ganevat whites, this is still a pretty enjoyable effort - as long as one makes sure to decant the bottle! The flavors do get muddled a bit once the wine starts to get cloudy.
(90 points) - 2018 Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin En Billat - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11.9.2023)
A naturalist ouillé Savagnin made with fruit sourced from a biodynamically farmed vineyard planted at a high altitude. Fermented spontaneously, aged for four years in 600-liter demi-muids. Bottled unfined and unfiltered and without any added sulfites on the 26th of July, 2022. 13% alcohol.
At first the wine pours with a deep golden yellow color with faint lime-green highlights, but the subsequent pours are slightly hazy. The nose feels restrained and slightly wild with aromas of fresh peach, some crunchy Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of savory old wood, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of waxy funk, a touch of honeydew melon and a whiff of leesy creaminess. The wine feels crisp, youthful and pretty high-strung on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tangy salinity and incisive steely minerality, some tart Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light bitter notes of lemon pith, a hint of fresh peach and a touch of cantaloupe. The bracing acidity makes the wine feel pretty taut and electric, lending it tremendous sense of structure and freshness. The racy finish is long, crisp and pretty high-strung with a long, acid-driven aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, steely minerality and sharp Granny Smith apple, some cantaloupe tones, a little bit of pithy lemon bitterness, light crunchy notes of fresh pineapple, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of creamy richness.
A very impressive and ridiculously high-strung naturalist Savagnin with tons of acidity and minerality, supported by quite ripe yet still very fresh and precise fruit flavors. Decanting is heartily recommended - you don't want the last pours to be hazy! At the moment the wine is maybe a bit too tightly-wound and incisive for full pleasure, but it shows tremendous potential for future development. Truly an acid-head's Savagnin - this is a wine for those people who think the normally very high-acid Savagnins don't have enough acidity! Thrilling stuff; let this wait for another five years or so. Highly recommended.
(92 points) - 2018 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Les Varrons - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11.9.2023)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from a vineyard planted in 1983. Harvested on 7th of September, 2018. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and with a sulfite addition of 7 mg/l on 11th of April, 2019. 12% alcohol and pH 3,55.
Somewhat translucent and a bit murky reddish color with a rusted iron hue. The nose feels perfumed with sweet-toned aromas of blackberries and blueberries, some primary lactic tones, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light floral notes of violets and more heady flowers, a fragrant hint of zesty Chinotto, a touch of cranberry juice and a primary whiff of raspberry jelly. The wine feels bright, juicy and quite twangy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and vibrant flavors of brambly raspberries and leathery funk, some saline and stony mineral notes, a little bit of lifted VA, light crunchy cranberry tones, floral hints of violets and sweet, aromatic herbs and a touch of ripe cherry. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, although the supple, gently grippy tannins lend a bit of firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is long, crunchy and slightly grippy with a vibrant, dry aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some blueberries, light fresh cranberry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, a rustic hint of bretty funk and a touch of floral lift.
A characterful, very balanced and enormously drinkable Jura Pinot with a very perfumed, floral overall character, exhibiting wonderful interplay between youthful fruit flavors and nuanced non-fruit flavors. Although it feels like the wine is so charming due to its very youthful, almost exuberant yet not excessive character, I have no doubts this wine will keep - maybe even evolve - just fine over medium term. Fun and delicious stuff, recommended.
(91 points) - 2020 Mathieu Allante et Christian Boulanger Amalgamè - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (11.9.2023)
A blend of Petit Béclan (35%), Gamay (25%), Poulsard (20%), Pinot Noir (10%) and Trousseau (10%) from Vigne au Daim - an interplanted vineyard Allante & Boulanger acquired in 2011. The grapes are fully destemmed, after which the grapes are co-fermented spontaneously. Aged for 12 months in 300-liter oak casks, then bottled without fining, filtration or any added sulfites. 12% alcohol.
Slightly translucent blackish-red color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels youthful, primary and quite fruit-forward with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of ripe plums, some cherry tones, light mulchy notes of damp soil, a little bit of brambly blackberry, a fragrant hint of vanillin and a candied touch of Bassett's black wine gum. The wine feels dense, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of dark forest fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of ferrous blood, light crunchy notes of crowberries and tart red plums, a lifted hint of VA and a touch of forest floor. The overall feel is pretty structured with the high acidity and gently grippy medium tannins. The moderately long finish is dry, wild and slightly grippy with a crunchy aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of tart red plum, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of forest floor and a funky touch of something animale.
A sophisticated and characterful little Jura red. I guess it might be hard - if not impossible - to find any varietal characteristics from this kind of a hodgepodge of local red varieties, but to the wine's defense, they do work pretty well together. While this wasn't a particularly impressive or memorable effort for a Jura red, there was nothing really wrong here - this was a pretty tasty and enjoyably fault-free for a red naturalista. Maybe the faint nuance of vanilla (or, more accurately, pure vanillin) in the nose felt a bit out of place, but it's entirely possible that I was imagining things. All in all, a fun little wine. Maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 39,50€, though.
(89 points) - 2018 La Grange Tiphaine Touraine Clef de Sol - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (11.9.2023)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Cabernet Franc and Côt (aka. Malbec) from a 60-yo vineyard. Fermented spontaneously and macerated in a concrete vat. Aged in old 225-liter barriques and 400-liter demi-muids. 13,5% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels youthful, dark-toned and quite complex with aromas of crunchy forest fruits, some inky tones, a little bit of candied primary fruit, light funky tones, a sweeter hint of juicy dark fruits and a faint vegetal touch of stewed herbs. The wine feels ripe and fruity but also very lively without any excessive sweetness or fat. Medium in body with intense flavors of brambly raspberries, crunchy crowberries and tart chokeberries, some inky tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light herbaceous notes of leafy Cab character, a hint of earth and a ferrous touch of blood. The overall feel is still surprisingly stern and tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, dry and somewhat grippy with a bright, acid-driven aftertaste of brambly raspberries and tart chokeberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of something funky, light earthy notes and a leafy hint of herbaceous greenness.
A wonderfully firm, serious and pretty classically styled Touraine red that is quite immediately identifiable for a red Loire wine - although the wine is not particularly herbaceous, the Cabernet Franc portion does shine through in a quite lovely fashion. The wine is very obviously made to be a vin de garde - I was afraid the wine was soft and excessively ripe due to the quite warm 2018 vintage, but this was anything but! The wine was remarkably high in acidity for a 2018 wine and based on the still very youthful - almost primary - fruit flavors, I can see this wine benefiting greatly from another 5-10 years of additional aging. Excellent value at 21,70€.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
. I’d love your note if you run accross this wine since this was my first and only glass and I still didn’t make the jump to purchasing any because of the availability/price combo.