TN: Stuff Asko makes us drink: Töövi wines

Another report from tastings @AskoKassinen has arranged. This time we drank a healthy bunch of Töövi wines - ie. wines Asko himself has commissioned from the “make-your-own-wine” Crushpad and, later on, from Dogpatch WineWorks.

We’ve had some tastings with Töövi wines before, including a vertical of Töövi Pinot Noirs (report here). Asko has told us that he was happy with Crushpad, as the wines were made according to his specifications pretty verbatim. However, the relationship with Dogpatch was quite patchy, as the wines weren’t often made according to his specifications - including a lot more new oak than specified for some wines. Asko’s approach to these commissioned wines has been “new world fruit, old world style” - but with Dogpatch that didn’t always end up being the case.

I’m sure Asko can pitch in if any of you have more specific questions about his wines, as I’m sure he can answer them more accurately than I can!

Anyways, it seems that many of the Töövi wines have either hit their peaks, or they are starting to be on a decline. Many have been wonderfully vibrant and fruity in the past, but it seems that age is finally catching up on them.

We also had an older bottle of Lindauer Cuvée Brut (a wine that used to be wonderful in the past, but has been quite crap for some time) and a magnum of Coteaux Bourguignons as a food wine.

  • NV Lindauer Brut Cuvée - New Zealand (1.2.2024)
    A blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) with a healthy addition of reserve wine. This is an old bottled purchased a long time ago, before they changed the winemaking with this wine. Aged in the bottles with the lees for at least 12 months before disgorging.

    Medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels moderately evolved and very complex with attractive aromas of roasted nuts and sweet honeyed tones, some ripe, sweet-toned citrus fruit notes, a little bit of bruised apple, light caramel nuances and a hint of brioche. The wine feels dry-ish, fresh and wonderfully nuanced on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of lemony citrus fruits and steely minerality, some bruised Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of pithy grapefruit bitterness, light autolytic notes of roasted nuts and toasted bread, a hint of smoke and a touch of caramel. The mousse feels creamy smooth whereas the high acidity lends great sense of freshness and zip to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and lively with a complex yet refreshing aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple, some lemony citrus fruit notes, a little bit of developed nuttiness, light autolytic bready tones, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of caramel.

    This used to be my go-to budget bubbly when I wanted something complex and toasty without having to break the bank - up until they changed the style considerably, making the wine merely a pitiful shadow of its former self (check out my TN from March 2022 to see how the wine performs today). After having tasted the "new" version of this wine, I was more than happy to get a chance to taste the wine how it was in the Good Old Times - and boy is this wine something. It used to be already quite evolved and toasty right out of the gates, which always made me question the wine's ageability, but apparently this wine could really develop, because this must have been purchased something like 7-10 years ago and this is not only singing, this is even better than how the wine used to be! At something like 13€, this has been a steal.
    (92 points)

  • 2014 Dogpatch WineWorks Chardonnay Töövi Cloudbreak Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (1.2.2024)
    100% Chardonnay from the Cloudbreak vineyard, planted to Clone 4 and Wente Clone in Sta. Rita Hills with elevations of up to 950 ft. above sea level. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, aged in neutral oak barrels. 13,9% alcohol.

    Pale-to-medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels very rich, sweet-toned and creamy with quite toasty aromas of nutty wood and creamy oak, some exotic fruits, a little bit of browned butter, light pineapple tones, a hint of tropical fruit candy and a touch of honeydew melon. The wine feels broad, richly-fruited and full-bodied on the palate with bold flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some pineapple tones, a little bit of woody oak spice, light creamy tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of browned butter. Despite its ripeness and breadth, the overall feel is surprisingly firm and energetic, thanks to the high acidity. The finish is long, focused and juicy with a ripe yet dry and acid-driven after-taste of creamy oak and zesty citrus fruit, some pineapple tones, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of sharp green apple, hints of toasty oak spice and a touch of honeydew melon.

    Although the wine was specified to be aged in neutral oak barrels, I find it hard to believe that a Chardonnay aged in "neutral" oak barrels would be this toasty and oaky at 10 years of age! However, even if the wine is quite "Californian" with its exotic fruit flavors and rather pronounced oak impact, it is still surprisingly impressive and balanced effort all the same. The wine never once comes across as excessively ripe; the alcohol stays in check; although quite pronounced, the oak flavors don't seem to obfuscate the fruit flavors; and, most importantly, the wine is high in acidity, which helps immensely in retaining the sense of freshness, structure and intensity. The wine is starting to show some developed qualities, but I'm sure the wine will continue to age effortlessly for many years more - hopefully losing some of those most pronounced oaky tones in the process. Even if this wasn't particularly "old world" styled wine (as opposed to the normal style of Töövi wines), this was good and sophisticated stuff all the same.
    (91 points)

  • 2013 Dogpatch WineWorks Marsanne Töövi Fenaughty Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado (1.2.2024)
    100% Marsannay from Fenaughty Vineyard in AVA El Dorado, planted in mid-to-late 1990's at the elevation of 820 to 850 m (2700 to 2800 ft) above sea level on volcanic soil. Aged in an oak barrique; not sure if it was new or slightly used, but definitely not neutral. 14% alcohol.

    Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels dull and woody with aromas of sawdust and dry wool socks, some sweet floral tones, a little bit of mealy yellow apple and a hint of sweet white fruit. The wine feels ripe, somewhat dull and a bit oily on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and moderately woody flavors of sawdust and wool socks, some fresh Granny Smith apple, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light yellow-toned fruit notes of peach and pineapple, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of herby spice. The rather high acidity brings nice sense of freshness and balance to the wine, even if the mouthfeel is slightly on the viscous side. The finish is quite acid-driven yet lacking in freshness with a medium-long aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some woody notes of sawdust, a little bit of woolly lanolin, light peachy notes of stone fruits, a hint of herby spice and a touch of creamy oak.

    Although the wine was supposed to be vinified in an old, neutral barrel, but apparently it was still moved to a new oak barrel, since the wine is so noticeably woody that it obfuscates most of the varietal qualities. Marsanne is notorious for really sucking up any wood flavors and you can really see the phenomenon in action here. The wine is just dull, woody and lacking in freshness. If the wine is this oaky at 10½ years of age, I doubt this wine is ever going to come around. This is just a woody disappointment and in all likelihood it is going to remain one for the remainder of its life.
    (83 points)

  • 2009 Crushpad Töövi Alder Springs Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (1.2.2024)
    A blend of Marsanne (50%) and Roussanne (50%) from the Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County. According to the back label the wine is fermented and aged completely in stainless steel, but I have been told to take this with a grain of salt. 14,2% alcohol.

    Rather pale lemon-yellow color with a faint greenish hue. The nose feels surprisingly youthful, floral and quite attractive with rather perfumed aromas of orange blossom and even slightly Gewurztraminer-like rosewater, some ripe white peach and pineapple notes, a little bit of lychee, light fragrant notes of chopped fresh herbs, a hint of ripe pear and a touch of exotic spices. The wine feels rich, broad and somewhat oily on the palate with a full body and characterful flavors of musky florals and rosewater, some ripe nectarine, light creamy tones, a little bit of lychee, a hint of ripe pear and a slightly developed touch of concentrated waxy character. The alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate, but despite the somewhat substantial overall feel, there's good sense of freshness and balance, thanks to the rather high acidity. The finish is juicy, quite ripe and a bit warm with a long, vibrant aftertaste of ripe pear, some developed waxy and spicy notes, a little bit of lychee, light floral notes of roses and orange blossom, a hint of creaminess and a touch of chopped herbs. The alcohol makes the wine end on a slightly warm note.

    A tasty, harmonious and still remarkably youthful white made in a classic Rhône style. Not only does the wine feel surprisingly young for one clocking in at 14½ years of age - this drinks like a wine less than half its age - but the wine has also developed some interesting floral qualities as it has gotten older. When I tasted the wine 3½ years ago, I did pick up some floral nuances, but this time these floral tones were so much to the fore I wondered if the wine had magically turned into a Gewurztraminer! Although the alcohol feels a bit too high at times, the wine still is a delightful drink all the same! Seeing how the wine is showing barely any developed signs, I can imagine this will continue to evolve effortlessly for many years more. A delightful white that can easily hold a candle to the rich and characterful whites of Northern Rhône. Highly recommended.
    (92 points)

  • 2014 Dogpatch WineWorks Pinot Noir Töövi Day Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir (clones 115 and 667) from Day Ranch vineyard in Anderson Valley. 14,1% alcohol.

    Translucent and quite youthful or slightly evolved ruby red color with a pale, limpid rim. The nose feels ripe, sunny and fragrant with aromas of sweet raspberries, some tobacco, a little bit of exotic spice, light juicy cherry tones, a woody hint of savory oak, a touch of gravelly minerality and a whiff of wild strawberry. The wine feels fresh, crunchy and pretty juicy with a medium body and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of ripe cranberries and raspberries, some redcurrant tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light gravelly mineral notes, hints of tobacco and licorice root and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The wine is quite high in acidity with rather supple medium tannins that bring some welcome firmness to the texture. The finish is ripe, somewhat grippy and moderately acid-driven with a long aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and brambly raspberries, some tart lingonberry notes, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of licorice root.

    A lively, sophisticated and harmonious Pinot Noir. Not really a grand vin, but nevertheless a balanced and thoroughly enjoyable effort. The wine is in a lovely spot right now, even though the overall feel is still quite youthful for the age and it doesn't really show any evolved signs yet. Compared to my previous taste of the wine, it feels like it has finally shed the most obvious oaky nuances and just vague, savory woody notes remain - exactly the way I want the oak to be in a wine: out of the way! I guess the wine might continue to evolve and improve for some years more, but most likely any further development is going to be quite limited - this is slowly arriving at its plateau of maturity. Nice stuff and one of the better Töövi wines made by Dogpatch Wineworks (compared to the more reliably good Töövi wines made by Crushpad).
    (90 points)

  • 2013 Dogpatch WineWorks Pinot Noir Töövi Day Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir (clones 115 and 667) from Day Ranch vineyard in Anderson Valley. 14,2% alcohol.

    Quite deep and dark but also moderately translucent and luminous black cherry color. The nose feels ripe, sweetly-fruited and quite dark-toned with aromas of wizened cherries, some black raspberries, a little bit of sweet pipe tobacco, light overripe strawberry tones, a hint of ripe figs and a touch of licorice. The wine feels juicy, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and slightly evolved flavors of sweet red plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of savory oak spice, light strawberry tones, developed hints of wizened figs and dried dark fruits and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The medium-plus acidity is a bit on the modest side for a Pinot Noir, so the structure relies more on the somewhat extracted and relatively grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is juicy, slightly evolved and somewhat grippy with a long, sweet-toned aftertaste of ripe red plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sweet strawberry, light evolved notes of wizened figs and dried cherries, a hint of earth and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The high alcohol starts to show a little bit towards the end of the aftertaste.

    Tasting this next to the 2014 vintage, my observations were quite similar when I tasted the 2013 and 2014 vintages a few years ago: this seems a sweeter, somewhat softer and quite a bit more darker-toned compared to the more red-toned and higher-acid 2014 vintage. However, both these vintages seemed to have benefited from the age, as they didn't exhibit as much oak influence as they did the last time. Although this wine is still a bit too soft and sweet-toned for my preference, I feel that the wine has evolved in the right direction and this is now better than it used to be! However, as the wine is starting to develop some tertiary dried-fruit flavors, I'm not sure if the wine is going to evolve and improve that much further from here. Maybe it is now at its plateau of maturity? Whatever the case, this is a pretty nice Cali Pinot. Nothing extraordinary, but nothing too bad, either.
    (88 points)

  • 2010 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hayley Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir (mainly clones 115, 667 and 777 with small amounts of Pommard and Martini clones) from Hayley vineyard in Anderson Valley. Aged for 10 months in a French oak barrel (50% new). Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,2% alcohol.

    Moderately evolved and quite translucent dark cherry-red color with an old brownish hue. The nose feels quite old and moderately oxidative with aromas of ripe dark berries, some meat stew, a little bit of prune and dried fig, light boysenberry tones, a hint of balsamic VA, a touch of soy sauce and a sweet whiff of Bassett's black wine gums. The wine feels evolved, somewhat oxidative and rather tired on the palate with a medium body and wilted flavors of raisiny dark fruits, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light figgy nuances, a hint of cooked strawberry and an oxidative touch of soy sauce. The structure seems to rely mostly on the rather high acidity, as the tannins start to come across as very resolved and gentle, barely retaining any grip. The finish is juicy, slightly sweet-toned and pretty tertiary with a moderately long aftertaste of wizened dark fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of beef jerky, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, a volatile hint of balsamico and a touch of stewed strawberry.

    Just as the last time a few years ago, this vintage came across as more evolved and oxidative than any other Töövi Pinot Noir we tasted - I guess our previous bottle wasn't an off bottle but this vintage just wasn't that great and fell apart by its 10th birthday. While still somewhat drinkable and enjoyable, I feel the wine has only lost some of its structure and fruit over the years and is coming across as even more oxidative and tertiary than before. Based on this two bottles I've tasted, this wine is now in a decline and not getting any better with further aging.
    (86 points)

  • 2009 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hayley Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir (mainly clones 115, 667 and 777 with small amounts of Pommard and Martini clones) from Hayley vineyard in Anderson Valley. Aged for 10 months in an used French oak barrel. 14,2% alcohol.

    Deep, luminous and moderately translucent pomegranate color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels surprisingly evolved and moderately tertiary with aromas savory spices and raisiny dark fruits, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of strawberry jam or raspberry marmalade, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, a hint of tobacco, a touch of balsamic VA and a whiff of alcohol. Contrasting the surprisingly evolved nose, the wine is vibrant and not that evolved on the palate with a medium body and rich, sweet-toned flavors of strawberries and brambly boysenberries, some ripe figs, a little bit of wizened red plum, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of blueberry juice and an aged touch of beef jerky. The overall feel is supple and a bit soft with the medium-to-moderately high acidity and ripe, friendly medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy, long and supple with a nuanced, somewhat sweet-toned aftertaste of blueberries and boysenberries, some cherries, a little bit of strawberry, light raspberry jam tones, tertiary hints of beef jerky and balsamic VA and a touch of tobacco.

    Back in 2020 I thought the wine was yet to reach its full maturity, but the bottles I've tasted since have seemed more tertiary and oxidative without any additional complexity, so I might need to revise my view here: I guess the wine was at its plateau of maturity in 2020 and is now in slow decline. This was still a very tasty and harmonious effort, and it didn't show any of those weird green-toned aromas our previous bottle showed in 2022, but this was also somewhat more tertiary as well. the nose was particularly evolved and quite tertiary, but fortunately on the palate the wine was much more youthful, showing comparatively little oxidative qualities. As I've said before, this is a rather rich, solar and hedonistic vintage of Töövi Pinot Noir - vibrant and tasty, but perhaps a bit too soft in structure and high in alcohol for my preference. Good and thoroughly enjoyable, but not among the great vintages.
    (89 points)

  • 2008 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hein Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir from Hein vineyard in Anderson Valley. A part of the grapes were vinified as whole clusters. Aged for 10 months in a 50% new French oak barrel. 13,7% alcohol.

    Evolved, moderately translucent ruby red color with a developed maroon hue. The nose feels fragrant, characterful and slightly wild with nuanced aromas of ripe raspberries, some bretty notes of phenolic funk, a little bit of strawberry, light sauvage meaty and leathery tones, a hint of cranberry sauce, a touch of loose tobacco and a whiff of sweet dark berries. The wine feels ripe, juicy and silky on the palate with a medium body and layered, slightly wild flavors of ripe dark berries and fresh wild strawberries, some bretty notes of leather, Band-Aid and lambic-like farmhouse funk, a little bit of phenolic spice, light sweeter notes of raspberry juice, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of red plum. The overall feel is firm and textural, thanks to the high acidity and ample yet ripe and quite supple medium tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some black cherries, a little bit of bretty leather and smoky phenolic character, light brambly raspberry tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a woody touch of savory oak spice.

    This is a vintage of Töövi Pinot Noir that seems to have only gotten better by every bottle I have tasted. The first bottle some four years ago seemed a bit soft and slightly fizzy (which might be explained if there's a tiny bit of brett in the wine!), whereas the second bottle two years ago came across as less soft and more funky. This bottle that we tasted now was very similar to the one we had two years ago, but perhaps showing even a bit more nuance and developed complexity. A perfect example of how a tiniest bit of bretty funk can add more complexity than it takes away. A lovely effort that is in a great spot right now.
    (91 points)

  • 2007 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hein Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir from Hein vineyard in Anderson Valley. Aged for 10 months in a 50% new French oak barrel. 13,4% alcohol.

    Surprisingly deep, dark and moderately opaque figgy-red color with a tertiary reddish-brown hue. The nose feels moderately old and very evolved with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some oxidative notes of rancio and soy sauce, light boysenberry and black cherry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a hint of earth, light floral notes of dried flowers and a fragrant touch of potpourri. The wine feels clean, somewhat crunchy and noticeably more youthful on the palate than the nose led to believe. The overall feel is medium in body with quite intense flavors of of tart lingonberries and ripe cranberries, some juicy strawberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light evolved beef jerky tones, oxidative hints of soy sauce and rancio and a touch of fresh black cherry. The combination of high acidity and moderately resolved medium tannins make the wine feel firm and balanced yet very silky in texture. The finish is juicy, long and gently grippy with a moderately evolved aftertaste of ripe raspberries, some raisiny dark fruit tones, a little bit of wild strawberry and fresh cranberry, light tobacco notes, oxidative hints of rancio and soy sauce and a touch of gravelly minerality.

    A couple of years I though the wine was pretty close to its apogee, but would still continue to evolve for a few years more. However, when I smelled the wine now for the first time, I thought it had instead turned more oxidative and gone on a decline. Fortunately, the wine just fooled me, just as it did the last time: although the nose feels relatively tertiary, the wine is surprisingly vibrant, fresh and youthful on the palate! Now it combines those more evolved and subtly oxidative tertiary flavors with quite intense and still relatively bright and fresh fruit flavors in a wonderful way. Furthermore, the oaky notes the wine exhibited in its youth are now completely gone - the wine is now all about nuanced, fully mature Cali Pinot fruit. I'd say the wine won't improve with additional aging, but it will keep for a good handful of years. Drink or keep.
    (93 points)

  • 2006 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Hein Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1.2.2024)
    100% single vineyard Pinot Noir from Hein vineyard in Anderson Valley. Aged for 10 monts in a combination of new and 3rd use French oak. 14,3% alcohol.

    Quite deep, moderately dark and somewhat translucent maroon color. The nose feels surprisingly closed and understated with somewhat reticent aromas of wizened dark berries and ripe red cherries, some raspberry tones, a little bit of old leather and pouch tobacco, light boysenberry notes, an evolved hint of dried dark fruits and a smoky touch of wood tar. The wine feels ripe, evolved and silky on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and evolved, fine-tuned and slightly sweet-toned flavors of wizened black cherries and dried dark fruits, some earthy spice, a little bit of loose tobacco, light toasty notes of sweet oak spice, a hint of ripe strawberry and a touch of tar. The structure relies both on the moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and evolved with attractive nuances of boysenberries, some wizened dark berries, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light earthy tones, a hint of earthy Pinosity and a touch of sweet oak spice.

    This was now the fourth time I tasted this wine - about once every year or two. The wine has always been a bit on the ripe and sweet-toned side, but the first bottle we tasted was also surprisingly youthful for its age. Conversely, all the bottles I've had since have seemed much more evolved in comparison, but the other two bottles have also showed some atypical green, herby nuances that don't really seem to fit the flavor profile here. This bottle, on the other hand, was much more in line what I had expected of this wine: it didn't show any odd, green qualities; it came across as evolved, but not excessively so, for its age; and the overall feel seemed to be pretty much in line with the first wine I had. The only think that had changed here was that the wine has always been quite open and expressive, whereas this bottle came across as somewhat more restrained and understated than before. With more aroma and flavor intensity, this wine would've gotten an even higher rating than it now did. Nevertheless, this is a nice, evolved and harmonious Cali Pinot in a lovely spot right now. Drink or keep for a handful of years more.
    (92 points)

  • 2005 Crushpad Pinot Noir Töövi Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (1.2.2024)
    100% Pinot Noir from Brosseau Vineyard in Chalone. 70% destemmed, 30% whole cluster. Aged for 10 months in a combination of new (50%) and old oak. 14,8% alcohol.

    Deep, moderately dark and somewhat translucent pomegranate-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels evolved, fragrant and quite seductive with aromas of ripe strawberries, cranberries and wizened red plums, some sweet figgy notes, a little bit of earthy Pinosity, light fragrant notes of dried flowers and exotic spices, a hint of something smoky and a touch of old leather. So many things going on here. The wine feels ripe, vibrant and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and complex, harmonious flavors of ripe red plums and black cherries, some tobacco, a little bit of wizened fig, light strawberry tones, a hint of old leather and a touch of earthy spice. Although the wine is quite big and ripe for a Töövi Pinot Noir, it retains great sense of firmness and balance with its high acidity and resolved, textural medium-plus tannins. The finish is rich, ripe and gently grippy with a long, complex aftertaste of strawberries and black cherries, some wizened figs and dried dark berries, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light smoky nuances, a hint of old leather and a fragrant touch of floral spice.

    A beautiful, complex and harmonious Cali Pinot at its peak. Although a bit on the ripe and substantial side of things, when it comes to Pinot Noir, this has still remained probably the most balanced, harmonious and complex Töövi Pinot Noir there is - and it has seemed improve slowly but steadily by every bottle I've tasted over the past 8-9 years. I'd say the wine has now reached its plateau of maturity and it won't improve with any additional aging, but since the wine feels somewhat less tertiary and more vibrant than the 2006, 2007 and 2009 Töövi Pinot Noirs, I wager the wine isn't going to fall apart within the next couple of years, either. A fine and very complete Pinot Noir with great sense of nuance, complexity and gravitas. Highly recommended.
    (94 points)

  • 2018 Louis Philibert Coteaux Bourguignons - France, Burgundy, Coteaux Bourguignons (1.2.2024)
    Served from a magnum. No idea about the variety or varieties used here. 13% alcohol.

    Youthful, slightly translucent and quite dark ruby red color. The nose feels fruit-forward, quite youthful and vaguely wild with aromas of blueberries and strawberry yogurt, some wild lifted notes, a little bit of candied primary fruit character, light zesty notes of orange rind, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of farmhouse funk. The wine feels juicy, moderately ripe and quite youthful on the palate with a medium body and somewhat linear flavors of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, some candied primary fruit flavors, a little bit of lactic blueberry yogurt tones, light lifted notes of orange zest, sweeter red-toned hints of strawberries and ripe cranberries and a touch of something metallic. The overall feel is a quite supple and a bit soft, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and very friendly, borderline nonexistent tannins. The finish is dry, soft and slightly crunchy with a medium-long, somewhat wild aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light floral nuances, wild hints of phenolic spice and orange zest and a touch of something metallic.

    A simple little sipper. Nothing ambitious, but at 15€ for a magnum, you really shouldn't expect anything of the sort. Nothing particularly bad here, and that tiniest wild overall character adds a bit of depth to the flavor, but as a whole, this is a quite linear and a bit too soft little wine. An easy, harmless everyday red.
    (83 points)

Posted from CellarTracker

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I bet everyone would love to hear a quick synopsis from @AskoKassinen on the back story and experience with making/commissioning these wines.

I think he needs to find a similar deal in Nova Scotia…

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I think he’s busy with his own vineyards jusy because then he doesn’t have to rely on Canadian fruit!

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Back in the day, late ’90s through mid 2010s or so I was a very frequent visitor to Silicon Valley. Developed a taste for California wines pdq. Virtually no availability here back home at the time. (Since then, things have somewhat improved)

During one of those trips, I found CrushPad. If I cannot find what I want at local state alcohol monopoly, certainly CrushPad was able to fix that. They provided fruit sources to choose from, facilities and wine makers. We developed the plans together; well I had my say on that. I did feel they listened to my needs and wants and acted accordingly. As Otto noted already, “new world fruit with old world style”. And new oak at minimum, no over extraction, careful or no fining & filtration. Unfortunately, CrushPad folded back in 2011 or was it 2012.

CrushPad had a spin-off in Bordeaux: Viniv. In Bordeaux it is only a blending exercise. But plenty of samples to chose from for the blend. Viniv is still up and running, nested at Lynch-Bages.

In California The Wine Foundry continues the CrushPad saga. I have not used them mainly due to the communications challenge now that I am not traveling that frequently to California.

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Thanks to ex CrushPad people @Cynthia_Cosco, Chris Nelson, Adam Smith, Dave Gifford who mainly worked on my wines.

And @Michael_Brill; first ~7 years were great! Few after, not so much :slight_smile:

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My blurry memory from the wine tasting in Helsinky tells me that you worked at the Brosseau vineyard, but now I think that I misunderstood, and what happened is that you sourced fruit from Brosseau for your wine. Or was it both? :shushing_face:

The Fenaughty vineyard is a fantastic Syrah site. Steve Edmunds made wonderful wines from there in the 2000-2012 period.

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It was a good evening in Helsinki indeed! :slight_smile:
Sourcing only, via CrushPad. At the time they had a contract with Brosseau.

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Crushpad and Dogpatch were buying grapes from some pretty good vineyards.

-Al

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How many cases of these wines got made?

AFAIK, it has been always one barrel per label. @AskoKassinen can correct me if I’m wrong.

Yes typicly one barrel per year and variety/vineyard. It went as high as 8 barrels one year: Pinots, Syrah, Marsanne/Rousanne. And Cab Sav from Washington.

Hey Asko,
Crushpad folded in 2011. :wink:

Thanks Cindy; I’m not quite sure what the appropriate emoji would be here … so I just say thanks for the data :slight_smile: