Finally, the third and final part of our tasting series on old Prunotto wines.
The previous tasting reports can be found here (the first one includes also some background information):
Prunotto wines of the Colla era, part I (1957-1974)
Prunotto wines of the Colla era, part II (1976-1981)
This time we had wines from 1982 to 1989, plus one 1978 that was oxidized in the previous tasting, and one 1998, just to show how the old Prunottos made after the Colla brothers left the company. And one extra blind we tasted before we dug into the Nebbioli.
Unfortunately our streak of somewhat oxidized and corked wines continued…
- 2020 Winnica Turnau Chardonnay - Poland, Zachodniopomorskie, Gryfino (16.1.2025)
100% Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in oak and acacia barrels, ranging from smaller barriques to larger casks. Bottled in 2022. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels very open, expressive and even quite perfumed with heady aromas of tropical fruit candies, some peachy tones, a little bit of ripe exotic fruit, light creamy oak tones and a hint of beeswax. The wine feels somewhat odd on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of peachy stony fruits, some weird metallic notes, a little bit of tropical fruit candies, light perfumed floral notes, a hint of banana marshmallow and a touch of acacia honey. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine more or less in balance while lending a tiny bit of freshness to the overall feel. The medium-long finish is rich and expressive with a dry-ish aftertaste of fruit cocktail, some peachy tones, a little bit of tart passion fruit, light perfumed floral notes, a hint of banana marshmallow and a touch of woody spice.
A weirdly tropical and candied Chardonnay that was impossible to identify; nobody guessed anywhere near Chardonnay, and - unsurprisingly - no-one managed to guess Poland, either. Although the overall feel was somewhat balanced as the wine wasn't particularly heavy and the acidity felt sufficiently high, the overall aroma and flavor profile wasn't particularly enticing. Can't say I was particularly won over by the wine.
(78 points) - 1978 Prunotto Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol.
Dark, old and surprisingly opaque maroon color with a somewhat brownish hue. The nose feels dull and dusty with corked aromas of water damage and damp cardboard along with a faint licorice note. The wine feels dry, dull and closed with a medium body and understated flavors of dusty attic, some metallic notes and a sanguine hint of iron. The wine is high in acidity with still quite grippy tannins.
The previous bottle we had a month earlier was too old and faded away, this bottle was just obviously corked. It feels like this is a cursed vintage for Prunotto's Barolo Riserva.
(NR/flawed) - 1982 Prunotto Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. A special selection of Prunotto's Barbaresco Montestefano that had been kept in casks for a prolonged time and selected in 1988 for Cavalieri del Tartufo. 13% alcohol. Bottle #125 of total 1000 bottles.
Dark, luminous and moderately translucent cherry-red color with and evolved brick-red hue. The nose feels evolved, savory and slightly sweet-toned with very identifiable aged Nebbiolo aromas of wizened dark berries and wood tar, some licorice root, light tobacco notes, a little bit of sun-baked earth, a hint of ripe strawberry, a touch of dried roses and a whiff of stewed rose hips. The wine feels dry, silky and quite tertiary with a medium body and very evolved flavors of tobacco and wood tar, some old leather, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of wizened strawberry, a hint of dried roses and a touch of old syrupy character. The overall feel is still pretty firm, thanks to the rather high acidity and still quite grippy tannins. The finish is old, long and grippy with a savory and pretty tertiary aftertaste of tar and dried flowers, some wizened strawberries, a little bit of old leather, light notes of tobacco, a balsamic hint of VA and a touch of aged syrupy character.
A classic old Nebbiolo that is more or less at the end of its life. The wine is very tertiary and getting somewhat anonymous with age, but it is undoubtedly very identifiable as an old Nebbiolo and it still retains wonderful sense of flavor intensity and depth of taste. Although this wine was noticeably more evolved and not as vibrant as the other bottles of Prunotto's Cavalieri del Tartufo bottlings, it was still thoroughly enjoyable and harmonious wine in its own right. I wouldn't keep it for much longer, however.
(92 points) - 1982 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Bussia di Monforte d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol. Bottle #18703 of total 21600 bottles.
Pale, limpid and fully translucent raspberry-red color with a somewhat evolved brick-orange hue. The nose feels somewhat Madeira-ish without being particularly madeirized or oxidized with aromas of varnish and mahogany, some syrupy notes of molasses, a little bit of wild strawberry, light smoky notes of phenolic spice, a sharp hint of tangy aldehydic character and a touch of sour cherry marmalade. The wine feels airy but also rather evolved and somewhat more oxidative on the palate than on the nose with a medium body and slightly madeirized flavors of syrupy sweetness and raisiny dark fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of mahogany and antique varnish, light stony mineral notes, a hint of molasses and a touch of tangy aldehydic character. The combination of high acidity and firm yet quite resolved medium tannins make the overall feel pretty balanced. The finish is evolved, quite gently tannic and rather fully tertiary with a moderately long aftertaste of raisiny dried fruits, some madeirized notes of coffee and caramel, a little bit of meat stew, light mahogany tones, red-toned hints of strawberries and sour cherries and a touch of pipe tobacco.
A tasty, rather light and relatively old bottle of Prunotto's single-vineyard Barolo Riserva. Curiously the nose had only a somewhat Madeira-like feel without any overt oxidative qualities, but on the palate the wine came across as noticeably more oxidized and madeirized in overall feel. Yet even then, the wine was surprisingly balanced and characterful. Definitely it had seen more oxygen than a Nebbiolo should have, but the wine was still surprisingly balanced and enjoyable. A bit more evolved than I wanted it to be, but still far from being completely flat and in pieces. Based on this bottle, the wine should be drunk sooner rather than later.
(87 points) - 1983 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Bussia di Monforte d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Very translucent dried-blood red color. The nose feels dry and quite tertiary with aromas of wood tar and smoke, some tobacco, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light sweeter notes of wizened dark fruits and dried cherries, a hint of anise, a touch of salty liquorice and a distinctive whiff of minty greenness. The wine feels dry, firm and evolved on the palate with a medium body and somewhat tertiary flavors of sour cherries and dried cranberries, some pine tar, a little bit of licorice root, light tart lingonberry tones, a hint of anise and a ferrous touch of blood. The wine retains quite a bit of structure with its brisk acidity and still quite assertive and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and moderately grippy with an evolved aftertaste of sour cherries, some tobacco, a little bit of pine tar, light tart lingonberry tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a ferrous touch of blood.
A quite typical old Barolo. At first the wine seemed a bit more tired, but it opened quite nicely over the night with some air. It never became anything special, but plateaued into this pleasant, enjoyably structured and moderately tertiary old Nebbiolo that was pretty dry and savory in overall feel. The wine showed a bit less fruit than the somewhat more expressive 1982 vintage, but at the same time this 1983 came across as much more focused and energetic, as the 1982 felt rather oxidative and already going into decline. I'm not sure is this wine is in decline or just sitting firmly on its plateau of maturity, but despite its somewhat non-fruity predisposition, it is an enjoyable old Barolo all the same.
(90 points) - 1983 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Quite pale, fully translucent and rather old brownish-maroon color. The nose feels sweetish, evolved and very attractive with complex aromas of ripe cherries, some old leather, light licorice root tones, a little bit of wood tar, a sweet hint of balsamic VA and a touch of dried roses. The wine feels evolved, rather ripe and enjoyably complex on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of sour cherries, tart lingonberries and sweeter dried berries, some licorice root, a little bit of wood tar, light balsamic notes of VA, a perfumed hint of dried roses and a savory touch of meaty umami. The wine comes across as pretty firm and balanced with its rather high acidity and still ample, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is savory, evolved and grippy with a long aftertaste of sour cherries, some old leather and tobacco, light tarry notes, a little bit of licorice root, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of balsamic VA.
A very classic, harmonious and complex old Barolo Riserva at its peak. Everything is exactly in the right place and there is nothing in excess. The overall feel might be not that intense or impressive in its own right, but this is pretty much what one should expect from an old Barolo. Delicious stuff by all standards - and an excellent return to form after the 1979 vintage that was both oxidized and corked.
(94 points) - 1985 Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 14% alcohol. Bottle #4665 of total 12900 bottles.
Quite translucent and moderately evolved pomegranate color. The nose feels dull with unpleasant aromas of dusty attic, some sweet raisiny tones and a faint tertiary hint of syrupy sweetness. The wine feels evolved and dull on the palate with a full body and understated flavors of damp cellar, some raisiny tones, a little bit of syrupy richness and a hint of dry dusty character. The wine is rather high in acidity with moderately grippy tannins.
Corked.
(NR/flawed) - 1988 Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #4929 of total 12050 bottles.
Evolved, more or less fully translucent dried-blood color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels dry, fragrant and quite attractive with aromas of wizened cherries and ripe raspberries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of old leather, light meaty tones, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of dried cranberries. The wine feels juicy, moderately evolved and quite richly-textured on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and nuanced flavors of sweet plummy fruit and wizened cherries, some savory notes of evolved meaty umami, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of red licorice, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel retains quite a bit of structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and still moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, evolved and moderately grippy with a layered, subtly sweetly-fruited aftertaste of wizened red plums and ripe cherries, some tobacco, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, a hint of old leather and a touch of balsamic VA.
A tasty and attractive old Barbaresco. Not that complex or impressive, but nevertheless a thoroughly enjoyable and harmonious effort all the same. As identifiable for an old Nebbiolo as they come. Nice stuff.
(92 points) - 1988 Prunotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo from multiple vineyards in Barolo. 13,5% alcohol.
Evolved, quite translucent and rather tertiary brick-red color with a syrupy-brow hue. The nose is just horribly corked with a huge, mildewy smack of TCA. The dull, mildewy taste is pretty identical to the nose with no fruit whatsoever. The wine is medium in body with high acidity and rather grippy tannins.
Can't remember the last time when a wine was as corked as this one.
(NR/flawed) - 1988 Prunotto Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #15559 of total 25080 bottles.
Quite dark and somewhat translucent brick-red color with a somewhat tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels a bit understated but still quite attractive with aromas of loose tobacco and wood tar, some developed meaty tones, a little bit of wizened sour cherry, light floral notes of dried roses, a fragrant hint of incense and a touch of red plummy fruit. The wine feels quite ripe but also pretty sinewy and chewy on the palate with a medium body and evolved flavors of sour cherries and tart red plums, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of salinity, light gravelly mineral notes, a hint of loose tobacco and a touch of dried flowers. The overall feel is rather structured, thanks to the high acidity and still rather grippy tannins that show relatively little resolution. The finish is savory, evolved and quite grippy with a rather long aftertaste of sour cherries, some wizened red plums, a little bit of tobacco, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of earth and a touch of tart cranberry.
A tasty, attractive and harmonious old Barolo. Contrasting this to the 1988 Prunotto Barbaresco we tasted at the same time, this wine seemed somewhat lighter and a bit more restrained in overall feel, but at the same time showing more sense of elegance and nuance. I'd say the wine is at full maturity now and even if it might keep fine for a good amount of years more, I really don't see the wine benefiting much with additional aging. Time to drink up.
(93 points) - 1988 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #4573 of total 11730 bottles.
Dark yet luminous and quite translucent brick-red color. The sweetish nose feels quite ripe and moderately evolved with aromas of wizened dark fruits, some old leather, a little bit of black cherry, light notes of licorice and anise, a hint of stewed strawberry and a touch of earth. The wine feels silky, rather ripe and a bit dense on the palate with a moderately full body and developed flavors of ripe cherries, some dried cranberries, a little bit of stewed strawberry, light leathery tones, hints of licorice and anise and a sweeter touch of dried dark fruits. The wine is quite balanced with its moderately high acidity and firm medium tannins that slowly pile on the gums. The finish is juicy and moderately grippy with a rather ripe but also quite dry aftertaste of strawberries and wizened cranberries, some old leather, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light earthy tones, a sweet hint of dried dark fruits and a touch of licorice.
This wine felt rather similar to the 1988 Prunotto Bussia we tasted at the same time, only showing a bit more ripeness and density compared to the slightly more lighter-weight Bussia. However, this also translated to a slightly darker fruit fruit profile and a bit softer tannins. Several people in the tasting found this Cannubi more impressive, but I preferred the elegance and somewhat more red-toned flavor profile of the Bussia. Both the wines were still lovely by all accounts - but also definitely fully mature; they might keep, but most likely won't evolve and improve with additional aging. It is getting high time to drink up.
(92 points) - 1989 Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #10413.
Moderately dark and somewhat translucent dried blood color. The nose feels somewhat sweetly-fruited but also a bit understated with slightly reticent aromas of wizened cherries and ripe strawberries, some developed meaty tones, a little bit of licorice, light fragrant notes of dried roses, a sweet hint of dried dark fruits and a touch of wood tar. The wine feels juicy, rather ripe and quite silky on the palate with a rather full body and evolved, dark-toned flavors of sweet black cherries and dark plummy fruit, some licorice, light strawberry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a hint of rose petals and a touch of sour cherries. The overall feel is pretty firm and structured despite the ripeness, thanks to the quite high acidity and still moderately grippy tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and rather ripe with a dark-toned and somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of black cherries, some strawberries, a little bit of old leather, light dried-fruit notes of prunes, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of dark plummy fruit.
After many firm, dry and sinewy bottles of 1980's Prunottos, this single-vineyard Barbaresco seemed surprisingly ripe and big-boned in comparison. Not in a modern, fruit-forward kind of way - just, well, coming across as weightier, darker-toned and somewhat sweeter in fruit profile. I found the wine balanced and quite enjoyable, but I must admit I nevertheless preferred the leaner, somewhat lighter-bodied and more red-toned vintages from the earlier 1980's (and even earlier).
(91 points) - 1998 Prunotto Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.1.2025)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, dark and surprisingly opaque (for a Nebbiolo) black cherry color with a tertiary brownish hue. The nose feels dense, dark-toned and moderately oxidative with aromas of soy sauce, some licorice, a little bit of smoke, light toasty notes of sweet chocolatey oak, a hint of meat stew, a sweet touch of wizened dark berries and a whiff of loose tobacco. The wine feels dense, extracted and somewhat clumsy on the palate with a full body and moderately oxidative flavors of sweet black cherries and beef jerky, some soy sauce, light raisiny tones, a little bit of loose tobacco, a toasty hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. Despite the rather modern overall feel, the wine still retains a pretty good structure with its moderately high acidity and quite grippy tannins. The finish is dense, grippy and quite oxidative with a long, dry aftertaste of soy sauce, some extracted woody bitterness, a little bit of beef jerky, light sweet notes of dried dark berries and pruney dark fruit, a hint of loose tobacco and a touch of tar.
A surprisingly modern and quite clumsy single-vineyard Barolo that is so completely unlike any of the 1980's Prunottos we tasted in the same tasting. We had our fair share of corked wines, which was a bummer, but I never imagined the most evolved and tertiary wine in the tasting would be the youngest bottle - a wine that is actually 9 years younger that the 2nd youngest wine in the tasting! Although the wine was impressively structured and balanced in its own way, I was a little taken aback how the wine hadn't managed to integrate its toasty oak qualities, yet its fruit had already given up and the wine was in a decline. I guess the wine must've improved somewhat from the time it was released, but seeing how the wine is slowly falling apart and turning oxidized instead of oxidative, it's safe to say the wine must've seen better days. This was a disappointment - and I guess it still would've been, even if it weren't so oxidative and tertiary.
(80 points)
Posted from CellarTracker