So, now is time for the part two of our three-part tasting series of the Prunotto wines produced under the helm of the Colla brothers, Beppe and Tino. I covered quite a bit of Prunotto’s history, including what the Colla brothers did while they ran the winery, in the tasting report part I, so go read that (and the tasting notes on the earlier vintages) if you haven’t alread
So, in the first part we covered a larger period starting from 1957 to 1974.
In this second part we had a much more focused session, ranging only from 1976 to 1981.
Unfortunately I have to say this was easily one of the weakest runs of old Nebbiolo when it comes to the percentage of faulty bottles - a staggering 5 bottles out of 13 were either corked or dead. However, to make up for all that, a great majority of the wines that were sound were pretty amazing; we even had a few wines that were some of the greatest old Nebbiolos I’ve had in a long time!
And - as it was with the previous tasting report - before anyone asks: yes, the wines were carefully double-decanted several hours prior to the tasting and given a good amount of air.
The lineup (with the extra blind fizz we had at the end).
We also had some outrageously tasty game ragù halfway through the tasting.
- 1976 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 12,5% alcohol.
Evolved, fully translucent cherry-red color with a tertiary brick-red hue. The nose is very true to an aged Nebbiolo with the complex aromas of wizened sour cherries and wood tar, some licorice tones, a little bit of tobacco, light cherry marmalade tones, a little bit of old leather, a hint of gravelly earth and a touch of beef jerky. The overall impression is that of an evolved wine that has been on its plateau of maturity for some time, but is yet to fall off the cliff. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and a bit lean flavors of tobacco and gravelly minerality, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of wood tar, light gravelly mineral notes, evolved hints of dried flowers and soy sauce and a touch of something metallic. The wine still retains a rather tightly-knit structure with its high acidity and ample, pretty grippy tannins. The finish is long, firm and grippy with an evolved aftertaste of sour cherries, some tobacco and old leather, a little bit of wood tar, light tart lingonberry notes,a hint of gravelly minerality and a faint touch of something metallic.
A nuanced, classically-styled and still remarkably tightly-knit example of Barbaresco from the Beppe Colla era. There was a tiniest bit of something metallic - perhaps tertiary nuances of brett phenolics? - that took a tiny toll on the final score, but even then, this was a lovely effort. Perhaps a bit tough and austere compared to the best vintages of this era, but not too much so. Compared to the somewhat more ripe and a bit weird 1976 Barolo Riserva, this 1976 Barbaresco Riserva was more or less as traditional as these wines come. Nice stuff.
(92 points) - 1976 Prunotto Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Evolved, fully translucent and moderately pale brick-red color. The nose feels open, expressive and pretty weird with aromas of fried liver and lingonberry jam, some elderberry juice and blackberry jelly tones, a little bit of crushed bilberries and blueberries, light floral notes, hints of punsch or arrack, a touch of plum compote and a faint bretty whiff of Band-Aid. The wine feels savory, rather ripe and a bit weird on the palate with a medium body and dry-ish to subtly sweet flavors of plum jam, some elderberry and chokeberry juice tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light meaty notes, a hint of strawberry sweetness and a touch of rowanberry marmalade. The wine is quite high in acidity with rather grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, somewhat sweet-toned and moderately grippy with a long aftertaste of sweet cherries, some lingonberry jam tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light leathery notes of brett, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of plum compote.
This was very weird experience. As a red wine per se, this was good and enjoyable. However, this did not taste like a +45 yo Barolo. At all. Like the wine wasn't even remotely like Nebbiolo. The aromatics were all weird and the wine didn't remind any of the other older Prunotto wines we tasted in this same tasting. However, I've had a wine like this at least once before - Ceretto's 1979 Bricco Asili had a similar, youthful, somewhat blackcurrant juice-like aroma and taste. I have no idea what is going on here; it feels like this isn't Barolo at all - maybe a faked Barolo. However, the other TN in CT mentions "candied fruit quality emerging", so I guess this might be how this wine is supposed to taste? I suspect the wine might be faked, but if it isn't, I have no idea why it is so unlike Nebbiolo!
(88 points) - 1978 Tenuta Montanello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,7% alcohol.
Pale, very evolved and fully translucent orange-maroon color. The nose feels old, moderately oxidative and very tertiary with aromas of butter-fried chanterelles and beef jerky, some pungent smoky tones, a little bit of rancio, light perfumed notes of roses and dried flowers, sweet hints of wizened sour cherries and raisins, a touch of malt syrup and a whiff of soy sauce. The wine feels dry, tertiary and somewhat oxidative on the palate with a medium body and a bit tired flavors of licorice, leather and ripe cranberry, some wizened sour cherry tones, a little bit of fried chanterelle, light floral notes of wilted roses, dried-fruit hints of prunes and dark raisiny fruit and a touch of beef jerky. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity with still pretty grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, tertiary and somewhat grippy with a rather long and a bit tired aftertaste of prunes and raisiny fruit, some fried chanterelle tones, a little bit of licorice, light sharp notes of tangy rancio, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of soy sauce.
A Barolo that is somewhat past its peak and sliding downhill. The wine is still thoroughly drinkable and quite enjoyable, although it is obvious the wine isn't showing its best anymore. It could've used a bit more acidity, too, but I think that isn't the wine's biggest problem anymore. A fun experience, but nothing special to write home about. Leaving the wine unrated. - 1978 Prunotto Barolo Cavalieri del Tartufo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. A special selection of Prunotto's Barolo that had been kept in casks for a prolonged time and selected in 1988 for Cavalieri del Tartufo. 13% alcohol. Bottle #653 of total 2500 bottles.
Dark, evolved and slightly translucent black cherry color with a somewhat tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels a bit restrained but still very attractive and nuanced with layered aromas of ripe black cherries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of campfire smoke and a touch of wood tar. The wine feels evolved and bone-dry yet still wonderfully juicy on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of sour cherries, ripe redcurrants and tart lingonberries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of old saddle leather, light sweeter notes of prunes, a hint of wood tar and a tertiary touch of beef jerky. The overall feel is evolved and fully mature yet not over the hill. The combination of high acidity and still firm, assertive and grippy tannins make the wine come across as pretty sinewy and wonderfully balanced. The finish is long, crunchy and quite grippy with a dry aftertaste of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, some leathery funk, a little bit of wizened red fruits, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and salty soy sauce, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of tobacco.
A beautiful, harmonious and classically styled Barolo with impressive flavor intensity and a still rather tightly-knit structure. The overall feel here might not be that open or impactful, but for the fans of aged Nebbiolo, this wine really pushes the right buttons. As the wine feels more or less fully mature, I'd say it is not going to benefit from any additional aging, but I doubt it is going to fall apart anytime soon, either. Outstanding stuff.
(95 points) - 1978 Prunotto Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite dark, somewhat translucent and quite evolved blackish-red color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels dry, dark-toned and a bit dusty with closed and somewhat dull aromas of licorice rot, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of damp earth, light notes of loose tobacco and a hint of raisiny fruit. The wine feels dry and quite understated on the palate with a medium body and somewhat dull and muted flavors of wizened cranberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of tobacco, light dusty attic notes and a hint of ferrous blood. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy tannins. The finish is quite long and rather grippy but also rather understated with a dry aftertaste of sour cherry bitterness, some dusty attic tones, a little bit of tobacco and a hint of earth. The dull flavors persist for quite a long time, but any fruity nuances disappear fast.
Either the wine is very tired and has more or less faded away, or then the wine is suffering from a mild case of cork fault. I didn't detect any obvious, mildewy TCA notes, but based on the overall dull feel of the wine, I'd say this wine was slightly corked.
(NR/flawed) - 1979 Prunotto Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 12,5% alcohol.
Luminous, translucent and rather evolved brick-red color with a slightly brownish-maroon hue. The nose feels beautifully fragrant, attractive and subtly green-toned with a rather sweet bouquet of licorice and wood tar, some floral notes of roses, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light crunchy notes of sour cherries and blackcurrants, subtly green hints of minty herbal character or eucalyptus, an oxidative touch of beef jerky and a whiff of sweet smoky character. The wine feels silky, evolved and a bit austere on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and crunchy flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some salty notes of rancio, light minty green nuances, a little bit of loose tobacco, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. Structurally the wine isn't that tightly-knit, yet it still retains good sense of balance and firmness with its rather high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, long and somewhat grippy with a bit lean aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some tertiary notes of beef jerky and loose tobacco, a little bit of wizened sour cherry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of loose tobacco and a tangy, sharp touch of salty rancio.
The nose here was just super lovely, but on the palate the wine felt a bit leaner and less seductive. However, despite its somewhat grumpy disposition, this is still a pretty lovely and quite elegant Barbaresco at full maturity. Maybe lacking the depth and complexity of the best vintages of Prunotto's Barolos and Barbarescos, but not by much. The nose here feels evolved yet not too old, but on the palate the wine exhibits a bit more of those tertiary qualities and it is obvious this wine has been on its plateau of maturity for a long time and it isn't going to be developing any further from here - apart from going downhill. Although I doubt the wine is going to fall apart in the next few years, I heartily recommend drinking this sooner rather than later.
(91 points) - 1979 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 12,5% alcohol.
Evolved and fully translucent brick-red color with a wide, pale brick-orange rim. The nose feels ripe, evolved and wonderfully perfumed with aromas of wizened red cherries, some leathery tones, a little bit of rich balsamico, light cranberry tones, a hint of wood tar, a touch of dried flowers and a tertiary whiff of beef jerky or meaty character. The wine feels ripe, silky and harmonious on the palate with a moderately full body and complex, layered flavors of wizened cherries, ripe cranberries and dried raspberries, some wood tar, a little bit of balsamic richness, light gravelly mineral tones, a tertiary hint of beef jerky and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is firm and pretty structure-driven, thanks to the quite high acidity and still moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long and quite grippy with a complex and quite intense aftertaste of wizened sour cherries and dried raspberries, some balsamic tones, a little bit of tar and smoke, light fragrant hints of dried flowers and brown spices, a hint of gravelly earth and a touch of pipe tobacco.
A beautiful, complex and quite ripe Barbaresco with impressive sense of structure, depth of flavor and intensity. Tasting this side-by-side with the normale version of 1979 Barbaresco, this wine seemed less tertiary and showing quite a bit of vibrancy of ripe fruit, whereas the normale seemed older and leaner with more evolved overall character and somewhat austere flavor profile. I enjoyed both the wines, but this was definitely a step up. It's hard to assess whether this wine is capable of evolving and improving with further aging, but it feels like it is not going to fall apart anytime soon. Lovely stuff, highly recommended.
(94 points) - 1979 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately dark and a bit hazy maroon color with a pale, brick-orange rim. The nose feels very musty, dull and unpleasant with heavily mildewy aromas of TCA. The wine feels dull, closed and musty on the palate with a medium body, high acidity and aggressive, unresolved and considerably grippy tannins.
A badly corked bottle. Darnage.
(NR/flawed) - 1979 Prunotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Translucent, rather tertiary reddish-maroon color with a pale orange rim. The bouquet feels somewhat dark-toned but also quite seductive with nuanced aromas of licorice root, some wizened black cherries and dark fruits, light balsamic tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a hint of old leather, a touch of ripe black raspberry and a whiff of roasted meat. The wine feels dry, firm and vibrant on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of sour cherries and crunchy cranberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of fresh red plum, light evolved notes of beef jerky and dried red fruits, a hint of tobacco and a touch of tart lingonberry. The wine comes across as much more youthful on the palate than its nose or appearance suggested, and the combination of high acidity and ample, grippy tannins make the overall feel very firm, structure-driven and even surprisingly tightly-knit for the age. The finish is nuanced, savory and quite grippy with a long aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and tart lingonberries, some sweeter notes of dried red fruits, a little bit of beef jerky, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of ripe red plum and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A beautiful, classically styled and complex Barolo with remarkable intensity of flavor, wonderful sense of complexity and an impressive, firm structure. The 1979 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva was already an superb effort, but this was even a step above that one. A fantastic Barolo that will not keep, but actually might evolve and improve even further from here with some additional aging. Obviously a wine built for the really long haul. Exceptional stuff, very highly recommended.
(96 points) - 1979 Prunotto Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Deep, luminous, moderately translucent dark red color. The nose feels dull, dusty and quite understated with vague, indistinct aromas that don't see unpleasant per se, but still somewhat off. The wine feels ripe yet quite understated and a bit dull on the palate with a rather full body and vague flavors of ripe cherries, some sour cherry bitterness and a hint of earth. The structure relies both on the high acidity and the ample yet quite powdery and moderately resolved tannins that still retain quite a bit of grip. The finish is a bit dull, rather hollow and somewhat grippy with a short aftertaste of earth, sour cherry bitterness and a bit of tobacco.
In our tasting of old Prunottos, this didn't seem as obviously corked as some wines, but as the wine was almost devoid of aromas and flavors and had this rather iffy, dusty overall feel, I heavily suspect the wine was suffering from a mild case of TCA.
(NR/flawed) - 1979 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol.
Murky, syrupy-brown color with a deep, reddish maroon core. The nose feels dull and somewhat musty with oxidized aromas of beef jerky and game, some dusty attic tones, a little bit of earth, light pruney notes, a hint of sharp rancio and a touch of soy sauce. The wine feels old, dusty and somewhat musty on the palate with a medium body and moderately oxidized flavors of malt syrup, some old leather, light crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of dusty earth, a hint of sharp rancio and a sweeter touch of prunes. The wine is high in acidity with ample, assertive and still very grippy tannins. The finish is dull, dusty and grippy with a rather short and underwhelming aftertaste of dried cranberries and prunes, some sharp oxidative notes of rancio and soy sauce, a little bit of dusty attic and a hint of forest floor.
People in the tasting discussed whether the wine was corked or oxidized, but I'd say this was both. No pleasure remained in the bottle. Dead in all the ways imaginable.
(NR/flawed) - 1980 Prunotto Barolo Riserva Bussia di Monforte d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 13% alcohol. Bottle #5492 of total 26185 bottles.
Translucent, quite evolved maroon color. The nose feels seductive and quite classically styled with aged Nebbiolo aromas of ripe cranberries and wizened sour cherries, some wood tar, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of grated Seville orange rind, fragrant hints of menthol and licorice, a touch of dark plummy fruit and a whiff of new leather. The wine feels quite ripe yet wonderfully dry and airy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of juicy red plums and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of leathery funk, light gravelly mineral tones, evolved hints of licorice root, beef jerky and smoky wood tar and a touch of tart lingonberry. The overall feel is pretty firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample, rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, evolved and moderately grippy with a long, subtly funky aftertaste of sour cherries and ripe cranberries, some tobacco, light bretty notes of leather and smoky phenolics,
A tasty, harmonious and still impressively structured single-vineyard Barolo that performs so much better than what one would anticipate from a Barolo from a vintage that has been considered to be of quite middling quality. Not a bad or miserable vintage, but nothing particularly remarkable, either. Well, this wine is just singing. It is showing a tiny bit of brett - something that surprisingly few older Prunottos have done - and it isn't as nuanced, expressive or intensely flavored as the best vintages we've tasted, but even then; this is a very lovely wine indeed. Most likely it is on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for some time - but I'd wager this wine isn't going to be falling apart anytime soon. Drink now or within the next decade or so.
(93 points) - 1981 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9.12.2024)
100% Nebbiolo. 12,5% alcohol.
Deep, quite dark and somewhat opaque blackish-red color with an evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels dry, smoky and somewhat tertiary with aromas of fried porcini mushroom and smoky speck, some wood tar notes, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light autumnal notes of forest floor, a hint of wizened sour cherry and a touch of red forest fruits. The wine feels dry, silky and airy with moderately tertiary flavors of ripe cranberries and gravelly minerality, some wizened sour cherries, a little bit of wood tar, light oxidative notes of salty rancio, a hint of dried redcurrants and an evolved touch of meaty umami. The structure relies both on the high acidity and the fine-grained and almost powdery yet still grippy tannins- The finish is long, dry and somewhat grippy with and evolved aftertaste of crunchy redcurrants and sour cherry bitterness, some oxidative beef jerky tones, a little bit of salty rancio, light sweeter notes of dried red fruits, an autumnal hint of forest floor and a touch of wood tar.
A nice, evolved and somewhat tertiary Barbaresco at full maturity. The fruit department is still hanging in there, but the overall feel is quite dominated by the savory, smoky and meaty flavors suggesting very advanced development. Most likely the wine is not going be falling apart in the immediate future, but I'd say the wine isn't going to be improving with any additional aging and it is best drunk sooner rather than later. A tasty example of evolved Barbaresco, but nothing that would blow your socks off.
(92 points) - 2016 Louise Brison Champagne À L'Aube de La Côte des Bar Brut Nature Millésime - France, Champagne (9.12.2024)
A blend of Chardonnay (50%) and Pinot Noir (50%) from 2016. First fermented and aged in oak barrels for 9 months, MLF blocked, bottled in June 2017 and disgorged in May 2023, after 6 years of aging sur lattes. 12,5% alcohol and dosage 0 g/l. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep lemon-yellow color. Quite ripe and citrus-driven nose with aromas of zesty lemon and savory spice, some juicy Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light floral notes of apple blossom, a hint of salinity, a touch of freshly-pressed apple juice and a whiff of honeyed richness. The wine feels firm, crunchy and bone-dry on the palate with a medium body and precise flavors of lemony citrus fruits and leesy autolysis, some ripe Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of biscuity character, light creamy oak nuances, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of quince. The ample, silky mousse adds nice sense of volume, while the brisk, zippy acidity makes the wine feel precise and structured. The palate-cleansing finish is long, bone-dry and quite incisive with a rather intense aftertaste of ripe Golden Delicious apple and ripe lemony citrus fruits, some leesy notes of autolysis, a little bit of creamy oak, light biscuity tones, a mineral hint of chalk dust and a touch of tangy salinity.
A fine tasty and quite brisk Champagne that has just enough ripeness to keep things balanced and enjoyable for a Brut Nature - with a little bit less ripeness the wine might've come across as quite shrill and austere, but now there is just enough fruit and richness to offset the incisive minerality and total lack of sugary sweetness. The overall feel is still very youthful for a wine clocking in at 8 years of age, making me think the wine can easily age for another decade or so - although I have no idea in which direction the wine is going to evolve to without any dosage. Good stuff all the same, a great purchase at 43,50€.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker