A report from the follow-up to our first vertical of Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas (1961-1978).
EDIT: Here’s also a link to the third vertical of Riservas 1989-2004.
Just as before, we had a number of duds in the lineup. However, curiously, I think that most of these wines, which all were past their peaks, were in a much worse shape than those from the 1970’s and 1960’s we had in the previous tasting. While some of the wines were still in a wonderful condition, I think that as a whole the Riservas from the 1960’s and 1970’s were built to last longer than these 1980’s - although it is certainly possible that with wines as old as these you get so much bottle variation that you really can’t say anything conclusive about the vintages - just give data points how these specific bottles of these vintages performed at this time.
A propos, I remember how in our visit to Produttori (in 2015) we were told how in the 1980’s Produttori reached a point in the 1980’s when their botti casks started for the first time to get so old that they couldn’t be reconditioned but instead needed to be replaced - and since they were kind of surprised by this fact and hadn’t prepared for it, they suddenly needed to replace relatively many casks at the same time, resulting in a relatively large amount of new oak in their cellars. We were told how we shouldn’t be surprised if some vintages from the 1980’s showed some new oak aromatics, because at least upon their release these wines that had been aged in just new oak bottis were supposedly quite atypical for the house style. However, all these wines we tasted now were so evolved that even if they had been aged in new oak bottis only, they didn’t show any new oak aromatics anymore.
To my understanding, now they keep much better track on the condition of their casks so that they need to replace only one at a time, keeping the amount of new oak to the absolute minimum at all times.
In addition to these Produttoris, the tasting attendees brought some blind extras with them; we had one blind before and a couple more after the main lineup. That Domaine Sérol came from my cellar.
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2019 The Winery Hotel Winery Red - Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola (20.2.2023)
A blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). The fruit is sourced via Terreno Winery located in Chianti Classico, but to my understanding the fruit comes from Maremma, not from the estate vineyards. The fruit is shipped to The Winery Hotel - located in Solna, Sweden - and vinified entirely withing there. The fruit is destemmed and crushed, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 24 months in old French oak barrels. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Translucent and luminous blackish-red color with a youthful garnet hue. The nose feels youthful and quite dark-toned with aromas of dark fruits and ripe raspberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of dusty earth, light woody notes, a hint of strawberry and a sweeter touch of blackcurrant marmalade. The wine is quite ripe and juicy yet enjoyably crunchy on the palate with a moderately full body and dry flavors of strawberries, some blackcurrants, a little bit of brooding, dark-toned spice, light gravelly mineral notes and a hint of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is very firm and balanced, thanks to the moderately high acidity and medium tannins. The alcohol lends a tiny bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is juicy, gently grippy and slightly warm with a quite long aftertaste of strawberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light blackcurrant tones, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of dusty earth.
A very nice, balanced and enjoyable Swedish/Tuscan red. I was a bit confused by the style of the wine - it felt quite Italian to me right from the start, but the blackcurrant component didn't really fit with that picture. Ultimately I guessed Etna Rosso, but once the bottle was revealed, a Sangiovese that has been fleshed out with a little bit of Cab made perfect sense. Normally I find these kinds of "urban winery" wines made with fruit sourced from another country quite gimmicky and not particularly memorable, but this was a very positive surprise: a young, balanced and well-crafted wine that is still maybe a bit too youthful, but shows great potential for future development. I'd let the wine age for at least a year or two, but most likely this will easily keep for ten and even more. Nice stuff and a great purchase at 179 SEK (approx. 16€).
(90 points) -
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Muncagota vineyard (the historic name under which the current vintages of this wine are bottled) - specifically from parcels owned by the Bellora, Casetta, Lignana and Viglino families. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #4847 of total 20325 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Aged, translucent and rather old syrupy-brown color. The nose feels madeirized with old aromas of raisins and dried dates, some syrupy tones, a little bit of cherry marmalade, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and soy sauce and a hint of nutty rancio. The wine tastes old and rather oxidative with a medium body and rather tired flavors of raisiny fruit and dried dates, some beef jerky, a little hoi sin, light arrack tones and a sweeter hint of cherry marmalade. The structure relies mostly on the rather high acidity as the ample tannins have resolved almost entirely. The finish is long, soft and tertiary with moderately oxidative flavors of raisins, some dried dates, a little bit of strawberry-driven red fruit, light sweeter notes of cherry marmalade, a hint of old leather and a touch of wizened ripe figs.
An old and tired Barbaresco Riserva that is already past its peak. The wine was very flat and oxidative at first, showing very little beyond pungent soy sauce notes, but it did get better over some hours of oxidation, exhibiting more sweeter dried fruit nuances. However, after some further aeration, the wine started to fall apart again, its oxidative qualities overwhelming any finer nuances it had managed to conjure earlier. At this point you have just great bottles, not great wines - and we didn't luck out with our bottle.
(NR/flawed) -
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
Bottle #14817 of total 21883 bottles (and 1410 mags). Released only after a minimum of four years of aging.
Quite translucent, luminous and still remarkably youthful garnet color. Contrasting the youthful appearance, the nose feels quite tertiary and somewhat pungent with slightly smoky aromas of speck and tar, some crunchy lingonberry notes, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light meaty tones, a hint of cranberry sauce, an oxidative touch of hoi sin or soy sauce and a whiff of potpourri. The wine is ripe, silky and juicy with a moderately full body and dark-toned, somewhat tertiary flavors of wizened cherries, some licorice root, a little bit of tar, light salty-meaty notes of prosciutto, ferrous hints of blood and a touch of raspberry juice. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels a bit modest for a 1982 Produttori Riserva, but the tannins are still surprisingly firm and grippy. The finish is dry, firm and grippy with a long, tertiary aftertaste of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some leather tones, a little bit of hoi sin, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, a hint of dried flavors and a touch of tar.
An old and a bit oxidative but still very balanced and thoroughly enjoyable Barbaresco Riserva. The wine might be a bit past its peak in the sense that most likely it has been more nuanced and vibrant at some point and it has started to become more anonymous with its senescence, but fortunately oxidation hasn't obliterated much of the fruit flavors or the impressive tannic structure.
(90 points) -
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Rio Sordo vineyard. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging.
Rather old dried-blood color with a dark yellow-ish rim. The nose feels somewhat reticent, very evolved and noticeably tertiary with aromas of game, some earth, a little bit of wizened dark berry, light dusty licorice root tones and a hint of cherry. The wine feels juicy, evolved and savory on the palate with a full body and dry, tertiary flavors of meaty umami, some dark berry, a little bit of dried sour cherry, light raisiny tones, a hint of wizened fig and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel is firm and quite structured; at first it feels the structure relies mostly on the high acidity whereas the tannins come across as pretty resolved, but they slowly pile up on the gums, turning the wine quite tough and grippy. The finish is savory, rather grippy and quite tertiary with a long, layered aftertaste of sour cherries, some wizened figs, a little bit of dried dates, light gamey tones, a hint of licorice root and a touch of tobacco. There is a little bit of alcohol warmth towards the end of the aftertaste.
At first the wine seemed quite tired and I was wondering if the wine was already past its peak, but with some air the wine managed to come around pretty nicely, turning into a pretty enjoyable effort. Nothing mindblowing, though - the wine remains moderately tertiary and a bit reticent, lacking the finesse, nuance and intensity I look for in older vintages of PdB Riservas. Nevertheless, this was a thoroughly drinkable and harmonious effort all the same. It is hard to say how much there is bottle variation, ie. if our bottle was fully representative of the vintage, but I'd rather pop any remaining bottles instead of aging them any further - I feel there is very little potential for future development.
(89 points) -
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Pora vineyard - specifically from parcels owned by the Culasso, Dellaferrera, Manzone and Varaldo families. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging.
Deep, luminous and quite translucent pomegranate red color with a moderately evolved maroon hue. The nose feels dry, fragrant and relatively fresh with aromas of sour cherries, some gamey tones, a little bit of dark forest fruits, light floral nuances of roses, hints of tar and something smoky, a touch of sweet black cherry and a whiff of stewed rose hips. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and somewhat evolved flavors of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some game, a little bit of dried red fruits, light metallic notes of rusty iron nails, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of stewed rose hips. The wine is pretty firm and structured with its high acidity and quite pronounced, grippy tannins. The finish is dry, lean and noticeably grippy with a long but also savory and somewhat light aftertaste of cranberries and sour cherry bitterness, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light rusty metallic tones, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of tar.
An aged Barbaresco Riserva that might otherwise be impressive and in a great spot right now, if it weren't for the rather distracting streak of metallic taste that jumps out quite immediately and lingers on in the aftertaste. This is still a nice wine that is on its plateau of maturity - and will keep there for some time - but the metallic taste really does take a toll on the score. Without it, this would've been a pretty terrific wine and among the better 1982 PdB Riservas.
(87 points) -
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Asili vineyard. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #2369 of total 20480 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Old, pale and fully translucent cherry-red color with an aged brick-orange hue and an almost colorless rim. The nose feels pungent, old and quite oxidative with aromas of soy sauce and beef jerky, some raisiny tones, a little bit of something smoky, light fragrant notes of dried flowers and potpourri, a hint of wizened sour cherry and a touch of rancio. The wine feels similarly old, oxidative and tertiary on the palate with a medium body and pungent flavors of soy sauce and tangy rancio, some beef jerky, a little bit of sweeter raisiny character, light smoky nuances, hints of dried dates and wizened sour cherries and a touch of tobacco. The wine is high in acidity with still quite grippy tannins. The finish is old, moderately grippy and quite lengthy with a tertiary aftertaste of sour cherries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of raisiny fruit, light beef jerky tones, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a touch of dried dates.
From a structural point of view, this was a very stern and quite impressive effort for a 40-yo Barbaresco Riserva. However, from the flavor perspective, this was already past its peak. There are still some fruity nuances and good sense of tertiary complexity, but the pungent, oxidative notes dominate both the nose and the taste so badly that there is very little thrill to be had in this wine. It's perfectly possible that we just had a poorly kept bottle and not all 1982 Asilis are flat and dead, but at this point, I'd be wary.
(NR/flawed) -
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Asili vineyard - specifically from parcels owned by the Conti, Aldo & Riccardo Giacosa and Odore families. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #3494 of total 18850 bottles (and 1330 mags). 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, quite translucent and relatively pale pomegranate color. The nose feels somewhat evolved and quite mushroomy with aromas of parasol mushrooms and fried funnel chanterelles, some ripe cherry tones, a little bit of wizened dark berry, light gamey nuances, a hint of smoke, a touch of sweet red plum and a lifted whiff of nail polish VA. The wine is quite tertiary - yet not tired - and firm on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of sour cherries and ripe cranberries, some raisiny tones, a little bit of ferrous blood, light mushroomy notes of chanterelles, a hint of crowberries and a touch of leather. The mouthfeel is quite silky yet at the same time pretty structured with the high acidity and still pretty grippy tannins. The finish dry and savory with moderately grippy tannins and a quite long aftertaste of sour cherries, some mushroomy notes of fried chanterelles, a little bit of dried dark berries, light leathery tones, a sweeter hint of raisiny fruit and a faint hint of something metallic.
A lovely, fine-tuned and enjoyably evolved Barbaresco Riserva that has developed some mushroomy tones that feel a bit more pronounced that feels typical for an aged Nebbiolo. I don't really mind - instead that faint metallic note that lingers on the palate bothers me a bit more. However, as a whole the wine remains thoroughly enjoyable and lovely, showing good sense of firmness, structure and tertiary complexity. I'm not sure if the wine retains any potential for future development, ie. if it is now on its plateau of maturity, but I feel the wine isn't going to be falling apart anytime soon. Drink or keep for a handful of years more. Good stuff.
(90 points) -
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Rabajà vineyard - specifically from parcels owned by the Alutto, Antona, Primo & Romano Rocca and Vacca families. Bottle #11859 of total 20540 bottles (and 1550 mags). Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat translucent and quite luminous cherry red color with a moderately evolved pomegranate hue. The nose shows beautifully evolved Nebbiolo aromatics of ripe red berries and cherry marmalade, some fragrant exotic spices, a little bit of strawberry, light lifted nuances of balsamic VA, a hint of tobacco and a touch of tar. The wine feels ripe, juicy and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of sweet black cherries and ripe raspberries, some wizened plummy tones, a little bit of balsamic richness, light marmaladey nuances of red fruits, a perfumed hint of dried flowers and a touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is pretty firm and structured with the high acidity and ripe and silky yet also ample and quite grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, complex and quite grippy with a harmonious and wonderfully persistent aftertaste of black cherries and other dark fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of exotic spice, light balsamic nuances, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of fragrant floral character.
A fantastic example of evolved Produttori Riserva that is in an excellent spot right now, yet packing enough structure and intensity of fruit to make me think this wine could actually improve even further from here with additional aging. This wine was wonderfully open from the get-go, but it slowly improved further in the glass, keeping its cool throughout the evening. Of the three '85 Riservas we tasted (Asili, Pora and Rabajà), this was the best wine - although all the wines were very lovely in their own right. Superb stuff, highly recommended.
(95 points) -
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Pora vineyard - specifically from parcels owned by the Dellaferrera and Manzone families. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #7585 of total 20250 bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Surprisingly youthful appearance for its age; quite translucent garnet color with a slightly evolved blood-red hue and a thin, colorless rim. The nose feels quite dry, rather evolved and pretty complex with attractive aromas of rose hips and dried flowers, some meaty tones, a little bit of raspberry jam, light dried figs tones, a hint of sour cherry and a touch of balsamic VA. The wine feels juicy, savory and harmonious on the palate with a moderately full body and quite ripe flavors of cherries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of wild strawberry, light evolved nuances of old leather and dried flowers, a hint of balsamic richness and a sweeter touch of dried figs. The rather high acidity and ample, still moderately grippy tannins lend good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is long, rich and juicy with a ripe aftertaste of red cherries and wild strawberries, some evolved meaty tones, a little bit of dried figs, light leathery nuances, a volatile hint of balsamic richness and a touch of tar. The tannins make the wine end on a moderately grippy note.
A fine, harmonious and thoroughly enjoyable Barbaresco Riserva with age. Although not a real stunner like some of the best Produttoris, this is still a fine wine that will at least keep - if not improve - for years more. A wonderful combination of tertiary Nebbiolo aromatics, ripe fruit and firm structure. Lovely stuff by all accounts.
(93 points) -
1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Ovello vineyard. Bottle #13209 of total 15350 bottles. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. 13,5% alcohol.
The translucent, luminous cherry-red color feels remarkably youthful for a Barbaresco almost 35 years old. The nose is similarly youthful, fragrant and expressive with seductive aromas of raspberry juice and crushed rose petals, some sweeter notes of wizened red plums, a little bit of strawberry cream, light meaty notes of roasted game, a hint of red licorice and a touch of tar. The wine feels quite ripe, vibrant and very juicy on the palate with a full body and quite concentrated flavors of black raspberries and dark plummy fruit, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, hints of licorice and medicinal herbs and a touch of balsamic richness. The mouthfeel is firm yet silky with the rather high acidity and ripe, quite resolved and gently grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and slightly grippy with a long, somewhat sweet-toned aftertaste of succulent black cherries, some balsamic tones, a little bit of strawberry, light pruney tones, a hint of crunchy cranberry and a touch of medicinal herbs.
A very balanced, harmonious and wonderfully complex Barbaresco that is remarkably youthful for its age - even if the wine is starting to show some tertiary complexity. Age has smoothed the rough surfaces and resolved the tannins, so that this isn't a tough, tightly-knit beast anymore, but instead a lovely example of developed Nebbiolo that drinks really well on its own, yet can be easily paired with a wide variety of different dishes. After five 1982s and a trio of 1985, this 1988 feels like a bit bigger and packing slightly more substance, yet not coming across as one bit heavy or too ripe. Highly recommended - this is a fine and very complete wine.
(94 points) -
1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Pajè vineyard. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #4157 of total 8095 bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, quite dark and moderately translucent pomegranate color with a developed maroon hue. Contrasting the rather evolved appearance, the nose feels much more youthful with a juicy bouquet of ripe black raspberries and black cherries, some wilted flowers, a little bit of wizened red plum, light dried fig tones, a hint of boiled ham and a touch of tar. The wine feels ripe, nuanced and vibrant on the palate with a quite full body and intense flavors of sour cherries and wizened black cherries, some balsamic tones, a little bit of black raspberry, light baked root vegetable nuances, a hint of dusty earth and a touch of roasted game. The overall feel is pretty firm and structured with the high acidity and at first quite silky and resolved tannins that turn out to be still quite assertive and grippy - only taking some time to coat the gums. The finish is ripe and juicy with moderately grippy tannins and a long, intense aftertaste of black raspberries and black cherries, some balsamic tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light evolved notes of dried figs and wizened red plums, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of tar.
A sophisticated, harmonious and quite ripe Barbaresco Riserva that feels rather meaty and quite dark-toned in its flavor profile, contrasting to the other wines we tasted that were less meaty and more red-toned in nature. The wine certainly shows some ripeness, but doesn't come across as particularly sweet-toned or heavy in any way and retaining still quite a bit of structure - despite its 35 years of age. Solid stuff. Based on the still relatively youthful nature of the wine, I'd say this will keep just fine for many more years - perhaps even evolve and improve a tiny bit in the process.
(92 points) -
1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.2.2023)
The fruit is sourced from the Rio Sordo vineyard. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #?392 of total 7890 bottles (the label was damaged, so no clue if there was a number before "3").
Medium-deep, quite translucent and still relatively youthful pomegranate red color. The nose feels quite tertiary, somewhat pungent and a bit oxidative with tertiary aromas of dried dates, some balsamic tones, a little bit of tobacco, light asphalt tones, a hint of tar, a touch of saddle leather and a whiff of nutty rancio. The wine feels aged, ripe and savory on the palate with a full body and tertiary flavors of wizened red cherries, some tar, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light balsamic notes of VA, oxidative hints of beef jerky and soy sauce and a touch of asphalt. Although old and quite silky in texture, the wine still retains a surprisingly firm structure, thanks to its high acidity and still quite grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, old and quite grippy with a long, dark-toned and rather tertiary aftertaste of tobacco, some tar, a little bit of pruney dark fruit, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, a hint of meat consommé and a touch of cigar.
An enjoyable, structured and stylistically quite autumnal Barbaresco Riserva that has started reached its plateau of maturity years ago and has now started its decline. The structure has resolved relatively little and the tannins still pack quite a grip, but the fruit department has already turned moderately pruney and is slowly starting to fall apart, letting the more oxidative tones creep in. This is still thoroughly enjoyable and harmonious effort, but after a bunch of still surprisingly youthful 1980's Produttori Riservas, it was pretty obvious this bottle was not up to par with them.
(88 points) -
2006 San Fereolo Dogliani - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Dogliani (20.2.2023)
Made with Dolcetto vineyards ranging from 40 to 70 yo. The fruit is destemmed, crushed and then moved into wooden vats. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 20 days with the skins and then pressed into oak barrels before fully fermenting dry. The wine finishes the fermentation and spontaneous MLF in oak barrels ranging from 700 to 4000 liters in size. Aged for 6 months on the lees, then racked off the lees and aged for another 6 months in the same oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dense and rather opaque black cherry color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels savory and meaty with somewhat extracted aromas of ripe dark fruits, some licorice root, a little bit of juicy cherry, light volatile balsamico tones, a hint of cigar, a touch of medicinal herbs and a whiff of old leather. The wine is quite dense, rather extracted and somewhat evolved on the palate with a full body and powerful flavors of wizened dark fruits, some balsamic tones, a little bit of licorice root, light woody notes of savory oak spice, dried-fruit hints of prunes and raisiny dark fruits and a touch of blueberry juice. The structure relies more on the stern, assertive and quite noticeably grippy tannins than on the medium-to-moderately high acidity. The finish is powerful, stern and very grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe dark fruits and prunes, some licorice root tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light balsamic tones, a hint of raisiny fruit and a touch of leather.
I was honestly quite surprised when this wine turned out to be a Dolcetto, because the style was very unlike anything I've normally associated with the grape variety - instead this felt more like something I'd associate with Brunello, Taurasi or Sagrantino. You really couldn't say this was a "modernist" wine, because the wine is not gloopy, oaky or particularly polished - no, on the contrary, the style here feels very naturalist and even a bit funky. However, people normally associate natural wines with fresh and light glou-glou wines and this ain't that kind of stuff, either. But what this is, is a very stern, powerful and impressively muscular Dolcetto made in a style that exemplifies what kind of wine the variety can produce when its full potential is realized. The wine is starting to get a bit pruney and raisiny with age, so I'd say there is no need for further aging - this is in a great spot right now.
(92 points) -
2019 Domaine Sérol Côte Roannaise Perdrizière - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Côte Roannaise (20.2.2023)
100% biodynamically farmed Gamay Saint-Romain (a local clone of Gamay Noir more susceptible to certain diseases and producing smaller bunches, translating to more concentrated fruit) from a 30-yo vineyard. 50% of the fruit is destemmed, 50% whole fruit. Vinified in a 6000-liter wooden tank by fermenting spontaneously and macerating with the skins for 15 days. Aged in wood for 11 months. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, translucent and quite deep ruby red color with youthful, subtly blueish highlights. The nose feels very youthful and quite primary with aromas of blueberries and red-fruited bubble gum, some ripe red cherry tones, a little bit of dank herby character, light crunchy notes of lingonberries, a floral hint of violets and a touch of carbonic banana character. The wine is clean, juicy and lively on the palate with a medium body and dry, very youthful flavors of blueberries and bilberries, some candied raspberry jelly tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light blackberry tones, a hint of herbal spice and a touch of carbonic bubble gum character. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity as the tannins feel quite light and only gently grippy. The finish is dry, fresh and gently grippy with a crunchy, moderately long aftertaste of blackberries and ripe raspberries, some blueberry tones, a little bit of herbal spice, light primary bubble gum and strawberry candy nuances and a hint of tart lingonberry.
A very fun, tasty and enjoyably crunchy Gamay that feels a bit too youthful and primary for its own good - even when the wine is 3½ years old already! The overall style is enjoyably dry, precise and acid-driven, but the flavor profile is quite heavily dominated by very youthful notes of candied fermentation esters and bubblegum-y carbonic notes. It feels like there is a terrific wine underneath all those sweet, candied primary notes, but it is going to take a handful of years more before they disappear completely. Let the wine age for some more - it is going to do nothing but good for this wine. Good value at 17,57€. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(89 points) -
2016 E. Molino Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (20.2.2023)
100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Barolo. Aged for 1 year; mostly in tanks, but a small portion in oak. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, luminous and quite translucent cherry red color with a pale, almost colorless rim. The nose feels fragrant, quite youthful and pretty sweet-toned with aromas of cherries and ripe raspberries, some sappy red fruit tones, a little bit of plummy dark fruit, light floral nuances of roses, a hint of allspice and some other more savory spices and a touch of peppery character. The wine feels clean, dry and silky on the palate with a medium body and well-delineated flavors of raspberries and sour cherries, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light stony mineral nuances, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of crunchy crowberry. The wine is high in acidity whereas the medium tannins feel quite ripe and gentle at first, but they pile up on the gums quite quickly, turning the wine rather pretty fast. The finish is juicy, pretty dry and moderately grippy with a long aftertaste of sour cherries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light herby nuances, a hint of licorice root and a touch of peppery spice.
A firm, balanced and serious Langhe Nebbiolo with quite a bit of substance and structure, yet despite all its ripeness the wine shows almost cool-climate kind of restraint and freshness. I enjoyed the wine quite a lot when I tasted it three years ago, but my initial guess was correct: back then I said the wine definitely benefits from aging and the wine's rating would go up with age. This definitely happened - I thought this wine was better now than three years ago, even though I didn't recognize it. Heck, I didn't even recognize the wine was a Nebbiolo - my first guess was a serious, structure-driven Jura Trousseau from a more recent, warmer vintage. Oh well! At just 11,5€, the value here has been crazy. Excellent stuff that is starting to drink pretty nicely, but will continue to evolve and improve for years more.
(91 points) -
1989 Weingut Hildegardishof Binger Bubenstück Ehrenfelser Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Rheinhessen (20.2.2023)
Made with botrytized Ehrenfelser (a Riesling x Knipperlé cross) grapes. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, very dark and noticeably evolved rusty-maroon color - some people thought this was a sweet red wine, even though Ehrenfelser is a white grape variety. The nose feels sweet but also very old and pungent with rather oxidative aromas of syrupy richness and spruce resin, some malty, oxidative notes of Barley Wine, a little bit of burnt sugar, light raisiny tones, a hint of dried dates and a touch of something smoky. The wine is old, sweet and oxidative on the palate with a full body and quite tired flavors of raisins, dried dates and bruised apples, some crunchy notes of quince, a little bit of syrupy sweetness, light malty notes, a hint of lemon juice and a touch of Corn Flakes. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, sweet and tertiary with very evolved and somewhat oxidative flavors of sharp lemony tones, some burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of crunchy quince, light bruised apple tones, a malty hint of Barley Wine and a touch of sweet raisiny fruit.
The bottle we had some 3½ years ago was still in wonderful shape - old but still thoroughly enjoyable and fully alive - whereas this bottle was already past its peak, getting quite heavily dominated by the sharp, oxidative flavors. While still pleasant and drinkable, it's quite obvious this wine had seen better days and was going downhill. Fortunately, at just 13€ for a half bottle, the financial loss wasn't unbearable.
And the label with the Wine Queen of 1989-90, Cornelia Grünewald, was still absolutely fantastic!
(NR/flawed)
Posted from CellarTracker
