A report from the first iteration of our Produttori Riserva sessions. To this date we’ve had two sessions and I’ve understood there are maybe one or two more still on their way. So remember to stay tuned!
EDIT: Here are the links to the other two sessions:
Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva vertical, pt. 2: 1988-1982
Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva vertical, pt. 3: 2004-1989
Anyways, we started with a dozen of the oldest Riserva bottlings. We kicked off with the youngest vintage and worked our way to the 1961 bottling of Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva - a wine predating the single-vineyard Riserva bottlings. I’ve understood this is the second vintage ever of this label.
A few other points: two of the wines were “Riserva Speciale”, which, I believe, is PdB’s way of saying the wines were aged for an extended period of time (ie. 4 years in oak instead of the normal 3 years for their Riservas); we also had one bottle of Martinenga - which is a monopole cru owned by Marchesi di Grésy.To my understanding, this remains the only vintage of PdB Martinenga ever produced, since 1967 was the first vintage Produttori produced single-vineyard bottlings and the next vintage they made single-vineyard bottlings was 1970, ie. the same year Grésy had left the co-operative.
(As an aside, Grésy is one of only five growers who have left PdB since the co-op was founded - the other four producers are Bruno Rocca, Varaldo (have they produced anything since the mid-00’s?), the Vacca family of Cantina del Pino and Lorenzo Alutto of Ca’ du Rabajà.)
Like always, when one is drinking wines as old as these, you just don’t get great wines, only great bottles. Not all the wines were in sound condition, but since I’ve had some of them before and they’ve been just great, it’s certainly possible that the wines that were past their peaks were just individual bottles, not truly representative of the respective vintages.
The wines were carefully double-decanted off the deposit (some bottles had accumulated a huge layer of sediment) about two hours prior to the tasting and the wines were followed over a period of 4-5 hours.
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1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #4289 of total 20080 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Luminous and moderately translucent ruby-red color that looks surprisingly youthful for the wine's age. The nose is somewhat more developed than the appearance, but not that much; there are aromas of game or olive, crunchy cranberries, some smoky notes of tar, a little bit of blood, light brambly raspberry tones, sweeter hints of wizened dark berries and ripe black cherries and a hint of leather. After a few hours the sweet, darker-toned elements start to turn toward blueberry tones. The wine is dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense, somewhat bitter flavors of tart lingonberries and sour cherries some beef jerky, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of old leather, a hint of dried chokeberries and a touch of tangy salinity. The wine still has tremendous sense of focus and the structure relies both on the high acidity and quite resolved tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, long and gently grippy with savory flavors of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of gravelly minerality and earth, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, a sanguine hint of iron and a touch of old leather.
A sophisticated and still remarkably tightly-knit vintage of PdB Riserva. Tasting this next to Pora 1978 and Rabajà 1974, the difference was remarkable compared to both of the wines: Pora 1978 seemed much more resolved and quite gentle in comparison, lacking the angular bitterness and intensity here, whereas Rabajà 1974 seemed much more evolved; more like a wine a few decades - not just a few years - older. This 1978 was in a superb spot right now - the tightly-knit structure has resolved to some degree and the the fruit has evolved quite a bit without yet going over the hill. A delightful effort and one of the best 1970's Produttori Riservas we had in this tasting.
(93 points) -
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #14460 of total 27890 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, rather pale and quite translucent cherry-red color that looks relatively youthful for the wine's age. The nose feels moderately evolved and slightly understated with somewhat reticent aromas of lingonberries and blood, some gamey notes of meat, a little bit of smoke, light cherry tones and an oxidative hint of beef jerky. The wine is silky, mellow and relaxed on the palate with a medium body and dry, moderately evolved flavors of tart lingonberries and crunchy crowberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of ferrous blood, light sweeter notes of wizened raspberries, a hint of fresh dark berries and a touch of loose tobacco. Despite the wine's somewhat mellow and resolved overall feel, it still retains quite a bit of structure, thanks to its high acidity and still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, long and moderately grippy with crunchy flavors of fresh chokeberries and black raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of game, light tart notes of lingonberries, a sweeter hint of dried dark fruits and a touch of tobacco.
A firm yet quite resolved and somewhat mellow Produttori Riserva. Compared to the Rabajà 1978 that was tasted alongside, this wine retained more tannic grip, but otherwise came across as smoother and more mellow in comparison, lacking the focus, robustness and intensity of Rabajà. It feels as though there is a bit more finesse here, but it is counterpointed the still quite tough tannic grip, making this wine feel like a solid food wine. All in all, great and thoroughly enjoyable stuff. Although I enjoyed the firm tannic structure here, I thought Rabajà was the better wine of these two 1978s due to its more noticeable intensity and depth of flavor. Still, both of them were terrific, skillfully made old-school Barbarescos.
(92 points) -
1974 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
The fruit is sourced from the Muncagota vineyard (the historic name under which the current vintages of this wine are bottled). Bottle #8352 of total 14201 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Very translucent and moderately evolved pomegranate color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels savory, somewhat reticent and quite tertiary with aged aromas of cranberries and wizened lingonberries, some sweeter cherry marmalade tones, a little bit of dry old leather, light strawberry tones, a hint of blood and a touch of gravelly earth. The wine is intense, sinewy and quite silky on the palate with a medium body and moderately evolved flavors of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, rather pronounced metallic notes of rusty iron, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light earthy notes and a hint of meat consommé. The wine is high in acidity with rather stern tannins that pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, lean and medium in length with somewhat understated and slightly metallic flavors of rusted iron, tart lingonberry, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral nuances and a hint of beef jerky.
An evolved and somewhat understated Produttori Riserva where the fruit seems to have subsided quite much - but not fully - yet the structure remains still quite tightly-knit and unresolved. Otherwise this would've been a pretty nice, even if a bit underwhelming old Nebbiolo, if it weren't for the somewhat distracting metallic streak of rusty iron that seemed to dominate the taste quite badly. While drinkable, there are better vintages of Moccagatta / Muncagota out there.
(84 points) -
1974 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #13754 of total 14118 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Pale, quite thin and very evolved tawny color with a brick-orange hue. The nose feels oxidative and quite aldehydic with aromas of raisins, some sweet caramel tones, a little bit of nutty rancio, light sweet notes of wizened dark berries and a hint of dried dates. With air the nose start to show even more madeirized and cooked elements. The wine feels old, tired and tertiary on the palate with a medium body and raisined flavors of dried dates and caramel, some nutty oxidative tones, a little bit of syrupy richness, light aldehydic notes of sorrel, a hint of hay and a touch of wizened cranberries. The wine still retains an impressive structure, thanks to its high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, dry and gently grippy with tertiary flavors of raisins and caramel, some aldehydic notes of sorrel and tangy salinity, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and chopped nuts, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of rye crispbread.
Meh. This is already past its peak. The difference between this bottle and the vibrant 1978 Rabajà we had in the same flight couldn't have been bigger. The wine isn't completely in shambles yet, so it's still perfectly drinkable, but nevertheless a far cry from what these old Produttoris can be when they are in sound condition and doesn't really give much pleasure. -
1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #9056 of total 13260 (0,72-liter) bottles. 14% alcohol.
Deep, moderately evolved and quite translucent pomegranate color. Pungent, somewhat dull and quite gamey nose with aromas of damp leaves, some wet dog, a little bit of licorice root, light wizened dark berry tones, a hint of earth and a touch of something vaguely flatulent. The wine is firm, meaty and textural on the palate with a moderately full body and flavors of savory umami, ripe cranberry, some sour cherry tones, a little bit of chalky bitterness, light crunchy notes of tart red plums, an autumnal hint of damp leaves and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine is high in acidity with ample, ripe and quite resolved tannins that contribute more to the texture than to the structure. The finish is dry, moderately grippy and quite tertiary with flavors of earth and forest floor, some sour cherry tones, a little bit of licorice, light sweeter notes of wizened ripe cranberries, a hint of licorice root and a touch of beef jerky.
An evolved and textural Produttori Riserva that is getting quite tertiary and has a somewhat dull and rather earthy overall character. Despite coming from a great vintage, the wine hasn't held up particularly well - it's enjoyable and balanced, but lacking the brightness, intensity and vibrancy the best bottles show.
(85 points) -
1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #10289 of total 14200 (0,72-liter) bottles. 14% alcohol.
Aged, pale and very translucent maroon color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels somewhat dull and quite meaty with aromas of cooked red fruits, some meaty tones, a little bit of wizened strawberries, light notes of dried dates, a meaty hint of terrine and a touch of tar. The wine feels evolved, textural and savory on the palate with a full body and aged flavors of wizened red fruits, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of wizened strawberry, light pruney tones, a sweet hint of raisiny dark fruit and a touch of meat terrine. The overall feel is still impressively structured, thanks to the high acidity and still rather assertive, prominent and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, aged and quite grippy with a complex aftertaste of wizened dark fruits and cooked strawberries, some ferrous notes of blood, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of prunes, a hint of tar and an oxidative touch of beef jerky.
A very stern and muscular Produttori Riserva that is a bit more evolved than would be good for the wine, but still coming across as wonderfully complex and thoroughly enjoyable. In our Produttori Riserva vertical, this vintage seemed a bit more advanced than the best vintages we had, but even though the wine might be now taking its first steps downhill, it still is yet to fall apart completely. However, it doesn't feel like the wine is going anywhere from here but down, so if this bottle was indicative how this vintage of this Cru should be performing now, I heartily recommend to drink any remaining bottles sooner rather than later.
(88 points) -
1970 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #6458 of total 14280 (0,72-liter) bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Translucent and ever-so-slightly hazy pale maroon color with a thin, almost colorless rim. The nose feels old and somewhat pungent with its slightly oxidized aromas of soy sauce and earth along with nuances of dried red fruits, some savory spices, a little bit of tar, light wizened cherry tones and a smoky hint of crisp bacon. The wine feels aged and quite tertiary yet also surprisingly concentrated on the palate with a rather full body and evolved flavors of wizened sour cherries and raisiny dark fruits, some cranberry sauce, a little bit of blood, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and soy sauce, a hint of tar and a touch of balsamico. The structure relies on both the high acidity and the ripe, somewhat resolved medium tannins. The finish is savory and quite harmonious with some tannic grip and a complex aftertaste of beef jerky and tobacco, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of gamey meat, light sweeter notes of wizened cranberries and prunes, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a touch of tar.
An old and pretty tertiary Produttori Riserva that is starting to get pretty oxidative with age, yet retains quite a bit of character and intensity as well. In our Produttori Riserva vertical we had some wines that weren't as advanced and tertiary as this was, yet didn't manage to reach the intensity and complexity this bottle showed - making it a perfect case in point how oxidative notes do not always ruin the wine. However, I think this wine must've been even better when it was younger and didn't have any oxidative notes - as exemplified by the vibrant and so harmonious 1970 Riserva Moccagatta that we had at the same time. While this was a very enjoyable wine in its own right, it couldn't hold a candle to the Moccagatta.
(90 points) -
1970 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
The fruit is sourced from the Muncagota vineyard (the historic name under which the current vintages of this wine are bottled). Bottle #10969 of total 14150 (0,72-liter) bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Clear, luminous and quite evolved brick-red color. Evolved, harmonious and wonderfully bright nose of wild strawberries and tar, some meatier beef jerky and salami tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light fragrant notes of dried flowers, a hint of blood and a sweeter touch of wizened red cherries. The wine is dry, surprisingly concentrated and very umami-driven on the palate with a quite full body and intense flavors of ripe cranberries, some wizened sour cherries, a little bit of tart lingonberry character, light evolved notes of beef jerky and almost raisiny dark fruit, a hint of tar and a touch of earth. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity as the gentle, fully resolved medium-minus tannins contribute mainly to the silky texture of the wine. The finish is long, harmonious and quite acid-driven with an intense aftertaste of crunchy cranberry and tart lingonberry, some meaty umami, a little bit of sweet raisiny fruit, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of pine tar.
A wonderfully evolved, harmonious and textural Produttori Riserva at its peak. The wine shows relatively gentle and mellow tannins for the style - most wines in our Produttori vertical were noticeably more tannic than this particular wine - but I don't know if this can be attributed to the vintage, to the age or to both of these. Nevertheless, the wine comes across as very correct for its age - it isn't overtly matured and too tertiary, nor is it particularly backward. The fruit has gained quite a bit of evolved complexity and wonderfully savory developed character, yet the wine still retains great intensity of fruit, too, not getting too earthy and oxidative in character. I doubt there is anything to gain with further aging, so I'd say drink now or over the next decade or so. It's better to enjoy this wine before it starts to fade away.
(93 points) -
1970 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
Bottle #6307 of total 14285 (0,72-liter) bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and quite translucent dark brick-red color with a dried-blood hue. The nose feels evolved, moderately sweet-toned and quite tertiary with aromas of sweet raisiny fruit and wizened dark berries, some oxidative notes of beef jerky and meat stew, a little bit of sweet balsamico character, light nuances of dried dates and a hint of bay leaf. The overall impression is getting a bit flat. The wine feels ripe, very tertiary and somewhat oxidative on the palate with tired flavors of wizened dark fruits and raisins, some balsamic tones, a little bit of tobacco, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and soy sauce, a hint of old leather and a touch of tangy salinity. The tannins feel ample yet very resolved and silky in texture, making the rather high acidity take responsibility of the structure. The finish is rich, long and textural with a little bit of tannic grip and complex, somewhat oxidative flavors of wizened dark fruits and prunes, some balsamic tones, a little bit of tobacco, light autumnal notes of earth and damp leaves, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
Unlike the bottle we had some seven years ago, which was one of the best Nebbiolos I've ever tasted, this one was already past its peak and turning moderately oxidative. You could taste that the quality here is exceptional, based on the sense of concentration, texture and the overall presence of the wine, but it's of no use when the fruit is beginning to fade and oxidative nuances have taken foothold. I guess there might still be some bottles left that are in pristine condition, but time is against this wine - I'd say even the best ones are already on their peak and won't benefit from further aging, whereas other bottles are like this, ie. still very enjoyable and capable of delivering some pleasure, but nevertheless slowly gliding downhill. Better to drink up sooner rather than later.
(89 points) -
1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Moccagatta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
The fruit is sourced from the Muncagota vineyard (the historic name under which the current vintages of this wine are bottled) and I believe this is the first bottling Produttori has made from this vineyard. The "Riserva Speciale" supposedly denotes the bottle is aged for four years in oak bottis instead of the normal three for Riservas. Bottle #6566 of total 13850 (0,72-liter) bottles. 13,35% alcohol.
Luminous, moderately evolved brick-red color. The fragrant nose feels evolved, sweet and attractive with complex aromas of ripe cherries and pine tar, some strawberry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry and fresh forest fruits, light floral notes of roses, a tertiary hint of gamey meat, a touch of dusty earth and a whiff of blueberry juice. The wine is firm, bone-dry and surprisingly youthful on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of sour cherries and crunchy cranberries, some tobacco, a little bit of dried flowers, light salty notes of beef jerky, tart hints of crowberries and fresh red plums and a touch of earth. The overall feel is getting quite resolved, although the firm medium-plus tannins still retain some nice grip. However, the structure relies more on the remarkably high and brisk acidity rather than on the tannins. The finish is dry, robust and somewhat grippy with a long, complex aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and sour cherries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of salty beef jerky, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of pipe tobacco.
A fantastic, so complex and beautifully fine-tuned old Barbaresco. This is not a big and arresting wine that would stop you on your tracks immediately; no, this is a piece of art you might just pass by in a hurry, but if you stop to marvel at it, you'll soon notice the layers upon layers here. Although not the best Nebbiolo I've tasted, this wine is still getting close to a perfection - if I want to have an aged Barbaresco, this is basically the kind of wine I have in my mind. Extraordinary stuff.
(97 points) -
1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Martinenga - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
The fruit is sourced from Cru Martinenga, the monopole vineyard of Marchesi di Grésy, and I believe this is the only bottling Produttori has made from this vineyard as Marchesi di Grésy left Produttori somewhere in the late 1960s or early 1970s to create his own winery. The "Riserva Speciale" supposedly denotes the bottle is aged for four years in oak bottis instead of the normal three for Riservas. Bottle #6838 of total 11640 (0,72-liter) bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite translucent, somewhat evolved and moderately translucent brick-red color. The nose feels somewhat restrained yet still wonderfully fragrant characterful with a haunting bouquet of wizened raspberries and raisiny dark fruits, some gamey tones, a little bit of minty lift, light notes of pine tar, hints of gingerbread and Christmas spices and a touch of pipe tobacco. The wine feels dry, harmonious and very fine-tuned on the palate with a wonderful silky texture, a medium body and distinctive flavors of chinotto rind and almost Campari-like bitterness, some wild strawberry notes, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light floral notes of roses, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of tar. The wine is high in acidity with firm, textural medium tannins. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and harmonious with an evolved, dry aftertaste of ripe red cherries and wild strawberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light floral notes of dried roses, a hint of pipe tobacco and a fragrant touch of chinotto zest.
A fantastic, harmonious and very characterful old Barbaresco at its peak. Although not the most exceptional wine in our tasting of old Produttori Riservas, this was still among the best bottles and probably the most distinctive one with its haunting, perfumed aromas and flavors. It's a shame Produttori couldn't make any more vintages of this Cru - it seems there was some serious potential for really wonderful and individual wines!
(95 points) -
1961 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (11.10.2022)
In 1961 Produttori del Barbaresco didn't release any normale Barbaresco, but instead aged all their wines for three years in botti casks (as opposed to the normal two years), making the wine eligible for the Riserva designation. To my understanding they didn't release any other 1961 wine than this Barbaresco Riserva. The bottle bears no mention of ABV or how large the annual production was.
Pale, very translucent and still surprisingly youthful brick-red color that doesn't look at all like a wine over 60 years old. The nose feels very evolved yet not particularly old or tertiary with nuanced, fine-tuned aromas of ripe cranberries, some meaty notes of game and blood, a little bit of wizened sour cherry, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of wild strawberry, a touch of sharp rancio character and a whiff of raisiny dark fruit. The wine feels delicate, fragrant and quite restrained on the palate with a medium body and moderately tertiary flavors of wizened sour cherries and dried red plums, some nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of beef jerky, light notes of tobacco, a hint of earth and a touch of olive. The structure relies mainly on the bright, high acidity as the tannins come across as almost fully resolved, contributing only to the velvety texture of the wine. The finish is long, dry and quite evolved with a complex aftertaste of salt-cured beef and sour cherry bitterness, some sweeter raisiny tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light nuances of Nutella, a hint of withered flowers and a touch of syrupy richness.
A very pretty and sophisticated old Nebbiolo that is more or less at its peak. Its appearance was surprisingly pale - even for an aged Nebbiolo - and strikingly youthful in hue and its nose was also relatively youthful for the age. However, on the palate the wine seemed much more evolved and tertiary than the nose and appearance led to believe, making the wine feel more appropriately evolved for its age. All in all, this is a lovely effort just on the cusp of decline - the fruit has started to recede and the oxidative nuances are slowly setting in, but the wine is yet to become too tertiary or anonymous in character. While this wine doesn't really match the exceptional depth and complexity the best vintages of PdB Barbarescos can show, this is still a wonderful aged Nebbiolo in its own right. Lovely.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
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