A report from a tasting an acquaintance of mine threw - a vinous event with no real unifying theme. Just random wines. Plus the attendees brought some extra wines with them so the whole thing ultimately devolved into a wine-fueled tasting session with one beer to finally close the night.
(We also had one Baumann-Zirgel Riesling that for some reason was left out from the lineup photo.)
I did take notes on all three Tondonias, but didn’t really bother adding all three into CT. The 0,75 and 0,375 were quite similar, the half bottle version just more evolved and probably not keeping good for much longer. However, the magnum version was remarkably different, showing an almost atypical amount of oak flavors - I normally get very little to no oak impact in Tondonia Reserva, so it was very weird to taste a Tondonia that had (not much but still) noticeable oak flavors. The contrast with the regular-sized bottle was quite big as only the magnum showed these oaky qualities.
Finally, our own 3-day review hero John Glas seemed to get quite triggered by the fact that I gave 2016 Tig only 88 points, because - as he told me in the CT comments - the wine is way better than that, as attested, for example, by all the other tasting notes in Cellartracker. Well, I guess he must be right and I’m wrong, even though I’ve tasted now at least 20 different vintages of Tignanello and I even tasted this vintage next to three others!
He also suggested that 
I should’ve tasted the wine over three days! What a surprise! And, coincidentally, I actually tasted the Tignanellos over two days (2013 over three days) because we had so much wine and not that many attendees, so people could take leftovers after the tasting! In the end I had the Burgundies, Tondonias, Tignanellos and Parce wines over two days as I had my set of 50 ml takeaway bottles with me, plus I tasted the 2013 Tig and Tondonia magnum over two consecutive nights at home since there was enough for 2 x 50 ml takeaways! But all even this wasn’t enough for our 3-day-review-man - he told me I should go and buy a new bottle and get myself a proper pour so that I could see what the wine is all about. Well, checking out the prices at which Tignanello sells for today; no, John. I don’t think I will.
- 2019 Malvira' Roero Arneis - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero (31.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Arneis. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels a bit restrained with aromas of apricot and white peach, some floral and herby notes of chamomile and lavender, a little bit of honeydew melon and a sweet hint of ripe red apple. The wine feels youthful, balanced and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some herbal notes reminiscent of noble hops, a little bit of cantaloupe, light mineral nuances of chalk dust, sweet hints of juicy white peach and pear and a nutty touch of slivered almonds. Good, structured acidity. The finish is ripe yet dry and maybe a bit short with flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some waxy tones, a little bit of herby pilsner character, light crunchy notes of cantaloupe and a nutty hint of slivered almonds.
A nice and fresh but also pretty simple and linear Arneis. A pleasant weekday white with good sense of structure, but relatively little in the way of character or complexity. I doubt the wine will fall apart anytime soon, but I'm not sure if the wine is going to pick up any additional complexity with further aging.
(87 points) - 2014 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (31.5.2024)
13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale lime-green color. The nose feels rich, waxy and slightly evolved with aromas of beeswax and ripe lemony citrus fruits, some sweet appley tones, a little bit of fragrant herbal spice, light perfumed floral notes of apple blossom and other white flowers and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels ripe, slightly oily and somewhat extracted with a full body and slightly evolved flavors of beeswax and sweet Fuji apple, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light bitter notes suggestive of high dry extract, a hint of herbal spice and a touch of tart Granny Smith apple. The alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate whereas the rather high acidity lends good sense of balance to the overall feel. The finish is long, spicy and shows relatively little fruit in its somewhat concentrated aftertaste of lemon marmalade, some honeyed tones, a little bit of extracted bitterness and spice, light chalky mineral nuances, a hint of salinity and a touch of peachy stone fruit.
While I was writing this tasting note (from my note book to CT), I was honestly quite surprised how similar - at times even identical - the descriptors were compared to my tasting note I had written more than 8 years ago! The wine was definitely the very same wine - only somewhat more developed and evolved in character. In 2016 the wine was still super high-strung and almost painfully young with its bracing acidity, whereas now the wine felt heavier, somewhat concentrated and more extracted in character, slightly lower in acidity and higher in alcohol. Although I enjoyed the more developed fruit flavors and subtle evolved tertiary complexity here, I was surprised how the wine seemed surprisingly heavy and clumsy now. While the depth and complexity were more impressive here, age had also taken a toll on the drinkability of the wine; while the wine undeniably has evolved, I'm not really sure if it has been entirely for the benefit of the wine. This is good, but at least this bottle felt a tad heavier than I prefer. Maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 47,90€, too.
(90 points) - 2014 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Winninger Uhlen Riesling "L" Laubach - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (31.5.2024)
100% Riesling from the Laubach parcel within the Winninger Uhlen vineyard - a parcel with a lot of extremely chalky slate called Laubach slate - hence the "L" in the label. Fermented spontaneously in old oak casks. Aged on the lees for 9-11 months. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels sweet and fragrant with aromas of lemon marmalade, some steely mineral notes, light petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of crunchy Granny Smith apple, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of flatulent reduction. The wine feels firm, lively and mineral on the palate with a medium body and intense, off-dry-ish flavors of sweet, freshly-pressed apple juice, some petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light skunky notes of flatulent reduction, a hint of pomelo and a sharp touch of crunchy Granny Smith apple. The overall feel is still very youthful and precise, wonderfully supported by the brisk, racy acidity. The finish is long, crisp and lively with an off-dry aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple and tart lemony citrus fruit, some diesel tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light floral notes of apple blossom and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
A crisp, lively and tasty Mosel Riesling with a tiniest bit of residual sugar offering a nice counterpoint to the brisk, mineral and slightly bitter flavors. The wine still shows a little bit of reduction, even at the age of 10 years, making the fruit department feel a bit muted - especially at first. However, the wine opens up slowly, losing some of that reduction with air, so some aeration is definitely called for. Good stuff with lots of upside; seeing how the wine shows relatively little age at 10 years of age, I have no idea how much longer this wine needs to reach its apogee. Probably quite many.
(92 points) - 2014 Paul Blanck Riesling Furstentum - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (31.5.2024)
100% Riesling from Grand Cru Furstentum. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel. Aged for a year in old oak foudres. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels surprisingly evolved, nutty and oxidative with aromas of slivered almonds and roasted chestnuts, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of beeswax and a tertiary hint of dried stone fruits. The wine feels crisp, lively and rather concentrated on the palate with a moderately full body and evolved flavors of steely minerality, some honeyed tones, a little bit of beeswax, light oxidative notes of roasted nuts and bruised apples, a hint of chalky bitterness and a touch of tangy salinity. Bright, structured acidity. The finish is crisp, dry and lively with a long, evolved aftertaste of stony minerality, some incisive steely notes, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruit, light chalky tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and an oxidative touch of nuttiness.
Still drinkable but way more evolved than I would've expected from a wine of this age - I guessed the wine was a Riesling, but twice as old as it really was. I wonder if the cork had failed or if the wine had just been kept in less-than-optimal conditions at some point? Not really completely undrinkable, but I suspect the wine was not representative of the vintage, so you have to take that into account with my score.
(84 points) - 2014 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (31.5.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from a 0,5-hectare parcel in 1er Cru Caillerets, one of the most esteemed vineyards in Volnay. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted half-blind.
Luminous, fully translucent and slightly evolved, pale ruby-red color with a thin, colorless rim. The nose feels clean, fragrant and quite perfumed with aromas of spicy Pinosity along with lovely allspice overtones, some sweet raspberry and cherry marmalade tones, a little bit of juicy strawberry, light earthy notes, a floral hint of violets, a vague touch of savory smoke and a whiff of earthiness. The wine feels lively, silky and quite airy on the palate with a medium body and rather ripe flavors of brambly raspberries and sweeter strawberry tones, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of tobacco, light floral nuances of violets and orange blossom, subtly spicy hints of allspice and toasted oak and a crunchy touch of tart redcurrants. The structure relies mainly on the pretty high acidity as the supple tannins lend only a tiny bit of grip to the gums. The finish is bright, spicy and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and brambly raspberries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of allspice and a sweeter touch of ripe strawberries.
A classically styled, clean and attractive Volnay - although the ripe, sweeter-toned fruit and somewhat pronounced spicy nuances do remind me a bit of New Zealand Pinot Noir at times! True to the 2014 vintage, the wine is quite airy and delicate, but also maybe lacking a bit of focus and intensity; I enjoy the purity and vibrancy of fruit here, but the wine feels a tad mellow and understated. Especially when the wine gets a bit warm in the glass it starts to lose definition and sense of structure, emphasizing how the wine really does benefit from cooler serving temperature. A fine wine that is still relatively youthful now - I can see this wine not only keeping, but also evolving and improving for a good number of years more.
(91 points) - 2014 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (31.5.2024)
Also known as "Cuvée Classique". 100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from the 5,5 hectares of estate vineyards in Clos Vougeot. All the parcels are vinified separately and blended together only soon before bottling. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted half-blind.
Quite deep, dark and only somewhat translucent pomegranate color with a slightly evolved maroon hue and a thin, pale rim. The nose feels savory, fragrant and moderately evolved - even slightly oxidative with aromas of game and wizened black cherries, some loose tobacco, light pruney notes of dried red plums, a little bit cooked beet root, an autumnal hint of leafy forest floor, a touch of stewed strawberry and a touch of something animale. The wine feels dry, dense and broad on the palate with a quite full body and rather ripe flavors of wizened dark berries and cooked strawberries, some oxidative notes of gamey meat, light juicy notes of black raspberries and black cherries, a little bit of tobacco and licorice root, a hint of stony minerality and an autumnal touch of damp, leafy earth. The structure relies on both the moderately high acidity and still relatively grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, evolved and moderately grippy with a dry aftertaste of gamey meat and peppery spice, some wizened dark fruits and cooked strawberries, a little bit of ripe black raspberry, light earthy tones, hints of tobacco and old leather and a touch of woody oak spice.
An impressively structured and quite muscular effort for a 2014 Clos Vougeot. However, I was surprised how very evolved the wine seemed - oxidation was already creeping in and the vibrant fruit flavors have started to turn sweet and pruney, making the overall feel a bit dull and tired. I guess this might've been just a poorly kept bottle, but it's impossible to say for sure before tasting one that's in a better shape. This was good, but not at the level of a Grand Cru, by a wide margin.
(88 points) - 2007 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (31.5.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (75%), Garnacha (15%), Graciano and Mazuelo (10%). Fermented spontaneously in old oak fermenters, aged in old American oak barriques for 6 years, bottled unfiltered and then aged for further 50 months in bottle. This wine could be easily labeled as Gran Reserva, but R. L. de Heredia chooses not to, because the wines labeled as Gran Reservas are aged even longer. 13% alcohol. Total production 200,000 bottles. Tasted from a magnum.
Moderately translucent and slightly evolved blood-red color. The nose feels surprisingly sweet-toned and even moderately woody for a Tondonia Reserva with quite youthful and fragrant aromas of sweet black cherries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of ripe forest fruit, light American oak notes of dill, licorice and toasted oak spice, a lactic hint of creamy diacetyl, a touch of saddle leather and a lifted whiff of sweet VA. The wine feels dry, firm and savory with a medium body and layered flavors of tart lingonberries and ripe cranberries, some red-toned flavors of strawberries and crunchy red plums, a little bit of sanguine iron, light oaky notes of coconut and dried dill, hints of old leather and dusty wood and a sweeter touch of toasty oak spice. The overall feel is relatively stern and tightly-knit for a Tondonia with its quite high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is lively, savory and rather grippy with a long, dry aftertaste of dusty old wood and tart lingonberry, some classic Rioja notes of dried dill and coconut, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of crunchy red plum.
I was surprised by this wine; I had tasted this before (4½ years ago) from a standard-sized bottle and not only did it feel much understated back then, this magnum also felt surprisingly - almost atypically - oaky for a Tondonia. Normally I don't find any obvious oak notes in Tondonias, but this magnum version had a surprisingly noticeable oak impact with its aromas of dried dill and coconut, occasionally even showing some toasty oak aromatics. The overall feel was much better than before, showing greater flavor intensity and balance - but I must admit I was somewhat weirded out by the oak aromatics. We also had a standard-sized bottle of 2007 Tondonia later on, to which we could compare this magnum, and it turned out to be not only more similar to the other standard-sized bottle I had tasted before, but also quite a bit more evolved compared to this magnum. It had no noticeable toasty or dill notes, but the fruit flavors were sweeter and more tertiary with somewhat more pruney and less vibrant. All in all, this 2007 vintage feels something of a conundrum and I really don't know which direction it is going to go from here.
(90 points) - 2016 Antinori Tignanello - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (31.5.2024)
A blend of Sangiovese (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) and Cabernet Franc (7%). Aged for 14-16 months in French and Hungarian oak barriques of first and second fill. 14% alcohol.
Dark, youthful and moderately opaque black cherry color. The nose feels a bit restrained but also quite, well, Tignanello with its aromas of Sangiovese's dusty sour cherries counterpointed with sweet blackcurrant tones, backed up by some woody tones, light blueberry-driven forest fruit notes, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, a hint of juicy black cherry and a touch of sweet smoke. The wine feels ripe, slightly sweetly-fruited and somewhat polished on the palate with a full body and juicy flavors of black cherries and blackcurrant-driven dark fruits, some toasty oak spice and chocolatey mocha character, a little bit of licorice, light woody tones, a hint of dusty earth and a touch of brambly black raspberry. The overall feel is quite accessible, thanks to the medium-plus acidity and tannins that are ample but also very ripe, supple and quite gentle. The finish is juicy, somewhat grippy and slightly warm with a moderately long and somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of ripe black cherries and dark plums, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of licorice, light cassis notes, toasty hints of mocha oak and milk chocolate and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
I've always thought that 2016 was an excellent vintage in many parts of Italy, Tuscany included; this is why I had quite high expectations on this vintage of Tignanello as well. However, the wine turned out to be not only surprisingly ripe, sweet-toned and soft for a Tignanello, but also surprisingly toasty, oak-heavy and polished in character. I had thought Antinori had started to make Tignanello in a less oaky, more purely-fruited style after the rather Parkerized versions made in the 00's, but this seems like a big leap back in time. I didn't like the wine much - even the somewhat bigger 2015 vintage seemed more interesting in comparison. The weakest vintage in our mini-vertical of four Tignanellos from 2016 to 2010.
(88 points) - 2015 Antinori Tignanello - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (31.5.2024)
A blend of Sangiovese (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Aged for 14-16 months in French and Hungarian oak barriques of first and second fill. 14% alcohol.
Dense, more or less fully opaque and still slightly youthful blackish-red color. The nose feels open, rich and noticeably ripe with bold aromas of juicy black cherries and sweet dark berries, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of sweet and slightly raisiny VA, light toasty notes of cocoa and mocha, a hint of strawberry, a woody touch of cedar and a faint Bordeaux-like whiff of cassis. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly warm on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of sweet black cherries, black raspberries and crunchy dark plums, some woody notes of cedar and savory oak spice, light earthy tones, a little bit of licorice, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a sweeter touch of wizened dark berries. The overall feel is quite firm and muscular yet not tough with the moderately high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, somewhat warm and moderately grippy with a bold, dark-toned aftertaste of black cherries and dark plums, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of earth, light licorice nuances, a hint of cedary wood and a sweeter touch of wizened dark fruits.
I expected the 2015 Tignanello to be a big, ripe and lush wine and the 2016 Tig to be a leaner, dried and more structure-driven effort in comparison. Well, it turned out that this 2015 vintage was the more serious one of the two. It does pack more ripeness and power - as is to be expected from the solar 2015 vintage - but the wine isn't as sweetly-fruited as the ripeness might suggest. Furthermore, the wine packs more structure with its higher acidity and more grippy tannins. The overall feel is maybe a bit too modern, polished and - well - ripe for my preference, but this isn't a bad wine. A bit on the extracted and toasty side, but not too much. I can imagine the wine will continue to evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more, but in our mini-vertical of four Tignanellos from 2016 to 2010 this vintage didn't offer much competition against the 2013 and 2010 vintages.
(89 points) - 2013 Antinori Tignanello - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (31.5.2024)
A blend of Sangiovese (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Aged for 12-14 months in French and Hungarian oak barriques of first and second fill. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, quite dark and rather opaque blackish-red color. The nose doesn't feel that expressive, but quite nuanced and attractive all the same with aromas of ripe black raspberries and juicy Bing cherries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of dusty wood and earth, light notes of licorice root, hints of ripe blackcurrants and sweet figs, a touch of wizened dark berries and a touch of toasty oak spice. The overall impression is quite pure and vibrant with relatively little oak impact. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a moderately full body and concentrated, ripe yet not sweet-toned flavors of dark-toned fruits and sour cherries, some savory wood spice, a little bit of crunchy cranberry and brambly raspberry, light licorice tones, a sweeter hint of ripe blackcurrants and a touch of sour cherry bitterness that grows in intensity towards the end of the aftertaste. The structure relies both on the high acidity and ample yet quite ripe and supple medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, savory and somewhat grippy with a long, vibrant aftertaste of dusty sour cherries and juicy blackcurrants, some tart red plum tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of licorice and a touch of old leather.
A balanced, tasty and surprisingly classically styled vintage of Tignanello that feels like how it should: a fresh and sinewy Chianti Classico with a little bit of Cab influence - not an oaked Super-Tuscan blockbuster. At approximately 10 years of age, the wine is still surprisingly youthful, showing relatively little signs of age. The tannins here were surprisingly gentle, especially for the exceptional 2013 vintage - all the other Tignanellos in our four-wine mini-vertical had more tannic grip - and the overall feel was wonderfully sophisticated, even delicate, for the label. While I like the normally very stern and muscular structure of typical Tignanello, this was a fine and attractive effort all the same. I wish Tignanellos were always more like this! All in all, this is a fine, more Tuscan than Super-Tuscan vintage of Tignanello that is quite approachable already now, but will continue to evolve and improve for many years more. Recommended.
(92 points) - 2010 Antinori Tignanello - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (31.5.2024)
A blend of Sangiovese (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Fermented and macerated with the skins in tronconical oak vats for 15-20 days. Aged for 12-14 months in French and Hungarian oak barriques of first and second fill. 14% alcohol.
Deep, very slightly translucent blackish-red color with a pale pomegranate rim. The brooding nose feels quite ripe and somewhat sweet-toned with bold aromas of juicy black cherries and bilberries, some tobacco, light toasty oak tones, a little bit of cassis, an evolved hint of meaty character and a subtly funky touch of phenolic spice - I wonder if there's a tinies bit of brett here? Despite the slightly evolved nuances, the overall feel is still quite youthful and vibrant. The wine feels rather ripe and open-knit at first, but then the assertive tannins clamp down, making the wine feel much tightly-wound than it initially appearad as. The wine is full in body with rather ripe flavors of juicy black cherries and sour cherry bitterness, some sweet blackcurrant cahracter, light toasty oak tones, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of fresh dark plum and a tiniest touch of balsamic VA. The combination of the ample, rather grippy tannins and high acidity make the wine feel pretty stern and muscular. The finish is long, somewhat warm and quite grippy with a bold, concentrated aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and dark plums, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of tobacco, light sweeter nuances of toasty mocha oak, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of balsamic VA.
A still quite youthful and rather tightly-knit vintage of Tignanello. The overall feel is quite typical of the 00's Tignanellos - somewhat oaky and quite extracted (making it feel more "Super-Tuscan" and quite different to the more delicate 2013 vintage, that came across as more Chianti Classico-like), but fortunately the wine seems to be evolving in the right direction: while the toasty oak tones are still present, they are starting to integrate with the bold fruit flavors. Furthermore, I feel there's a tiniest bit of bretty funk here, which adds its own, subtle layer of rustic complexity that plays off nicely in contrast to the somewhat more modern and polished tones. While I liked the less burly 2013 vintage more, I feel this is in its way a bit more impactful wine in its own right and I wouldn't surprised if this ends up being more impressive wine with further aging. At least now it feels like the wine could use another 15-ish years easily - the overall structure is built for aging and the combination of toasty oak and still rather unresolved tannins will benefit greatly from some time lying sideways. Recommended - at least for patient people.
(92 points) - NV Parcé Frères Rivesaltes 20 Ans d'Élevage en Barrique - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Rivesaltes (31.5.2024)
As the wine bears no vintage designation (unlike many other Parcé Rivesaltes), I guess the base wine must be a blend of different vintages. Bottled in May 2023, after having been aged for 20 years in a barrique. 16% alcohol.
Luminous, pale bronze amber-ish color. The sweet, fragrant nose is captivating with complex, attractive aromas of caramel, arrack and maple syrup, some vanilla pod tones, a little bit of dried nectarine, light raisiny Sultana tones, rich hints of honey and tangerine marmalade, a volatile touch of nail polish and a whiff of nutty rancio. The wine feels sweet, complex and quite oily - yet not heavy or sticky - on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of caramel and dried nectarine, some cooked cream tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light arrack notes, a hint of honey-and-oats and a balancing touch of burnt sugar bitterness. Despite all the sweetness and the viscous mouthfeel, the wine comes across as surprisingly fresh and harmonious, thanks to its rather high acidity. The sweet finish is very long, complex and slightly warm with an intensely flavors aftertaste of maple syrup and caramel, some vanilla or arrack tones, a little bit of nutty oxidation, light creamy notes of panna cotta, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a touch of dried stone fruits. The sweeter fruit notes recede first, leaving a dried, slightly bitter nuance of nutty oxidation and burnt sugar to offset the sweetness from the residual sugar.
A fantastic, complex and very characterful Rivesaltes with spot-on sense of balance and remarkably fresh overall character for such a sweet, concentrated wine. An absolutely amazing fortified wine. As the wine is aged oxidatively before it is bottled, it is not going to go anywhere from here - it is not going to improve, nor fall apart with additional age. Drink now or keep. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) - 2022 Domaine Augustin Banyuls Rimage Augustin Parcé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls (31.5.2024)
100% Grenache, harvested at optimum maturity - not at over-ripeness. Fermented in stainless steel vats until the fermentation is halted with fortification with grape spirits. Macerated with the skins for 5 weeks. Aged in stainless steel tanks for a brief period of time. 16% alcohol and 83 g/l residual sugar.
Youthful, dense and more or less fully opaque black cherry color with a vibrant blueish hue. The nose feels very sweet, candied and primary with aromas of boysenberry marmalade and fermented dark fruits, some strawberry jam, a little bit of overripe black cherry, light spirituous notes of alcohol, a hint of blueberry juice, a touch of kirsch and a whiff of earth. While very fruit-driven, the overall feel is still maybe a bit dull and not that attractive. The wine feels sweet, very youthful and noticeably fruit-driven on the palate with a full body and lush yet somewhat robust flavors of blueberry juice and blackcurrant jam, some cherry and boysenberry marmalade tones, a little bit of raspberry jelly, light green notes of birch leaves, a floral hint of rosewater and a touch of peppery spice. The overall feel is not particularly fresh but instead very round and somewhat soupy, thanks to the rather modest acidity; the structure relies almost entirely on the somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is youthful, somewhat warm and moderately grippy with a sweet, medium-long aftertaste of blueberry juice and strawberry jam, some blackcurrant marmalade tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light candied primary notes of raspberry jellies and grapey fruit, a hint of pruney dark fruit and a green touch of birch leaves.
A somewhat tasty but ultimately way too soft, jammy and primary Banyuls that comes across as rather simple and banal, lacking badly in freshness and depth of flavor. Not really a bad wine in any way - not just anything particularly interesting or memorable. I hope the wine gets a bit better as it loses those candied primary flavors, as I feel that they accentuate the inherent sweetness of the wine a bit too much. Not worth the price at 39,98€ for a 0,75-liter bottle.
(83 points) - 2017 Baumann-Zirgel Riesling Streng - France, Alsace (31.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Riesling from lieu-dit Streng. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately deep and somewhat evolved lemon-yellow color. The nose feels broad, ripe and quite rich with sweet-toned aromas of apple jam and beeswax, some sweet spices, light floral notes, a little bit of juicy nectarine and a concentrated hint of extracted spice. The wine feels ripe, broad and somewhat oily on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of peachy stone fruit, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of sweet Golden Delicious apple, light petrolly notes of diesel, a hint of zesty citrus fruit and an extracted touch of waxy, spicy character. The rather high acidity makes the overall feel surprisingly structured and focused despite the noticeable ripeness and rather big body. The finish is long, ripe and broad with a powerful, acid-driven aftertaste of fresh peach and ripe Golden Delicious apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of extracted spicy character, light floral notes of apple blossom and a hint of beeswax.
An attractive, complex and surprisingly structured powerhouse of a Riesling that shows quite a bit of weight and ripeness - but at the same time a nice, cool mineral core and rather high acidity to keep things together. To me, the wine feels a tad too heavy and maybe a bit clumsy, but there's no denying that this is a surprisingly impressive non-Grand Cru single-vineyard Riesling in its own right. I guess the wine could evolve further from here, but I'm afraid the wine will get even heavier and more ponderous with additional age, so I'd be a bit wary with keeping the wine for much longer. Excellent value for the price at approximately 15€, though.
(89 points) - 2011 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken R - Germany, Pfalz (31.5.2024)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels noticeably ripe and quite extracted with quite odd aromas of dry waxy character and savory spice, some sweet citrus fruits, a little bit of honeycomb, light green, herbal notes of peppermint, a hint of overripe apricot, a touch of wizened apple and a whiff of bruised quince. The wine feels broad, heavy and noticeably ripe on the palate with a full body and dry, extracted and somewhat rustic flavors of lemon marmalade, some bruised Fuji apple, light saline mineral notes, a little bit of honeyed richness, extracted hints of savory spice and waxy character and a touch of overripe apricot. The overall feel is pretty round and ponderous, thanks to the excessive ripeness and modest acidity. The finish is ripe, round and somewhat sweet-toned with a medium-long aftertaste of lemon marmalade, some overripe red apple, light extracted notes of waxy character and spicy bitterness, a hint of bruised quince and a touch of angular minerality.
Although the wine is technically dry, it comes across as rather sweet-toned with its overripe fruit, evolved (close to oxidative) flavors and surprisingly modest acidity. I've never been a fan of 2011 Rieslings nor Auslese trocken wines, so this manages to combine two of my dislikes. Do two negatives make a positive? Not here they don't. This is tired, clumsy and unpleasant monster of a wine that is as far removed from the style of Riesling as I can imagine. If people say Alsatian Riesling is ripe and clumsy, they've never been near this wine - Alsatian Rieslings are delicate ballerinas compared to this hulking beast. At 60-70€ this is daylight robbery. Avoid.
(75 points) - 2013 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (31.5.2024)
12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, slightly evolved golden yellow color. The nose feels sweet, rich and quite fragrant with fresh aromas of honeyed richness, some lemon marmalade, light pineapple tones, a little bit of apple jam, a hint of peachy stone fruit and an evolved touch of beeswax. The wine feels broad yet still pretty high-strung on the palate with a medium body and bright, dry-ish flavors of steely minerality and honeyed richness, some pithy notes of grapefruit bitterness, light apple jam tones, a little bit pf pineapple, a hint of beeswax and a touch of mineral spice. The racy acidity lends great sense of freshness, structure and electric energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, steely and slightly evolved with a dry aftertaste of steely minerality and pomelo-driven citrus fruits, some honeyed tones, a little bit of pineapple, light mineral notes of wet rocks and a developed hint of beeswax.
A sophisticated, brisk and quite high-strung Riesling that might've been quite lean and austere in its youth, but is now slowly resolving and developing some lovely evolved nuances in addition to its crisp, acid-driven fruit flavors. A nice, fresh and structured effort that is drinking nicely right now but will continue to evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more. Recommended. Priced according to its quality at 27€.
(91 points) - 2019 Nik Weis / St. Urbans-Hof Chardonnay Unfiltriert - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (31.5.2024)
100% Chardonnay. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, neutral, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels expressive, steely yet subtly oaky with layered aromas of spicy red apple and creamy oak, some grilled pineapple tones, light smoky notes of toasted oak, a little bit of steely and chalky minerality, a hint of leesy autolysis and a touch of fresh honeydew melon. My first overall impression, based only on the nose, is "oaked Chablis?". The wine feels quite broad, ripe and sweet-toned - yet not heavy - on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of fresh red apple and honeydew melon, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light stony mineral notes, hints of savory wood spice and toasted oak and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and intensity to the wine. The finish is rich, long and quite intensely-flavored with a complex aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light oaky notes of toffee and smoky toasted character, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of incisive steely character.
A very impressive, complex and super youthful Chardonnay that has a somewhat steely, mineral overall feel reminiscent of Chablis, yet at the same time boasts a surprisingly hefty - yet not overdone - streak of oak, making the wine have a much more Burgundian (or even Raveneau-like) overall feel on top of that Chablis minerality. And even then, the wine is surprisingly ripe and broad, having quite a bit of body and weight to serve as a great counterpoint to the minerality and high acidity. A stellar example of how German Chardonnay is slowly but steadily beginning to challenge Burgundy as the source of excellent oak-aged whites. The wine shows great promise and I'm quite sure those oaky tones will mellow down and integrate with the fruit as the wine ages, so I heartily recommend letting the wine age for at least another 5 years more. Expect the score to go up with age. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - NV Famille Moussé Champagne L'Or D'Eugene Rose - France, Champagne (31.5.2024)
A blend of Pinot Meunier (82%) and Pinot Noir (18%), assembled from two perpetual reserves containing vintages from 2003 to 2019; one reserve is "Eugène" - Blanc de Noirs, a blend of Pinot Meunier (80%) and Pinot Noir (20%) - and another is red Pinot Meunier from a parcel in Cuisles, aged in old, neutral oak barrels. Full MLF. Bottled in April 2020. Disgorged on December 3rd, 2021, after 20 months of aging sur lattes. 12% alcohol and dosage 2,5 g/l.
Translucent, reddish-orange rose hip color.. The nose feels rich, fragrant and sweet-toned with complex aromas of strawberries and toffee, some oxidative notes of roasted nuts and coffee, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light bruised apple tones, a hint of cooked rose hips and a touch of stony minerality. The wine feels ripe, broad and complex on the palate with a gentle, fine and persistent mousse, a rather full body and juicy flavors of wild strawberries and ripe raspberries, some stony minerality, a little bit of juicy Golden Delicious apple, light oxidative notes of bruised red apple and wizened yellow fruits, a toasty hint of nuttiness and a touch of torrefaction. The overall feel is quite vinous, but also balanced and structured, thanks to the quite high acidity. The finish is dry, savory and rather vinous with a long, complex aftertaste of cherries and wizened yellow fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of bruised red apple, light oxidative notes of roasted nuts, a hint of juicy raspberry and a touch of spicy Pinosity.
A complex, tasty and wonderfully vinous rosé Champagne. Lots of things going on here - the wine feels both relatively evolved and slightly oxidative, thanks to the very long perpetual reserve from which the wine is composed, but also surprisingly fresh and energetic for such. I guess the producer must replenish quite a lot of the reserve every year to make it feel so fresh and keep it from coming across as too tired and oxidative. I don't really expect the wine to evolve much further in the bottle, as it is quite evolved and complex right out of the gate. Terrific stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2022 Château Thivin Utopia - France, Vin de France (31.5.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Prior (40%), Chambourcin (40%), Pinotin (10%) and Souvignier Gris (10%) - all hybrid varieties - from a terraced parcel in Mount Brouilly, Beaujolais. The wine is an experiment to see how the disease-resistant hybrid varieties fare in Beaujolais and can wineries make serious wines with them. Vinified with carbonic maceration over 7 days, then pressed and aged in oak casks for 9 months. 13% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque purple color that stains the glass as you swirl it around. the nose feels open, sweet and fragrant with very primary aromas of blueberry juice, some cherry marmalade, light candied grapey notes, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, a hint of blackberry jam and a touch of ethery VA. The wine feels lively, crunchy and very youthful on the palate with a medium body and quite primary flavors of tart lingonberries and sweet grapey fruit, some inky tones, a little bit of tart dark plum, light blueberry notes, a hint of fresh cranberry and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is surprisingly firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, lively and moderately grippy with a long, youthful aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, herby spice, some inky tones, a little bit of blueberry juice, light primary notes of blackberry jam and sweet grapey fruit, a hint of earth and a touch of acetic VA.
Typically I just don't like wines that are made from hybrid varieties - they tend to taste too weird, candied or foxy and often they are unbalanced with an unnaturally high level of acidity with no tannins whatsoever. However, this wine was remarkably vinous and also surprisingly serious for a hybrid wine! Sure, there's some candied character there - but at this point is quite impossible to tell whether it's from the grape varieties or just because the wine is still so very young and primary. The fruit flavors are vibrant and the wine packs a surprising amount of structure. When I poured the wine blind to my wino friends, the guesses ranged from a freshly released Bandol and Northern Rhône Syrah to obscure Loire varieties - and no wonder! The combination of dense, purple color, blueberry-driven fruit profile and firm tannins do remind me of a young Syrah or Bandol as well. I'd love to see where this wine goes with further aging - at least now it feels like the wine packs a good amount of potential to improve with further cellaring. A positive surprise and well worth the price at 21,90€.
(89 points) - 2021 Cantillon Brewery Gueuze Cuveé Saint-Gilloise - Belgium, Brussels (31.5.2024)
Although somewhat similar in style, this in not really a Gueuze (a blend of several Lambics of different ages), but instead a 2-year old Lambic that is first dry-hopped in stainless steel and then bottled along with a small dose of sugary liqueur to create the carbonation. Bottled on January 14th, 2021. 5,5% alcohol.
Quite cloudy orange color with a rather large and persistent white head. The nose feels fragrant and pretty much like a textbook Cantillon lambic - only with a more fragrant, perfumed twist. There are aromas of green apples and funky outhouse, some saddle leather, light lemony citrus fruit notes, a little bit of something like a rubber toy, a hint of bruised apple, a touch of spruce shoot and a whiff of heady floral character. The beer feels fresh and quite funky yet still somewhat clean on the palate with a medium body and dry, sour and very complex flavors of lemony citrus fruits and sharp green apples, some saddle leather, light fragrant notes of spruce shoots, a little bit of stable floor funk and bretty phenolic spice, a rubbery hint of air balloon and a sweeter touch of ripe apricot. The carbonation feels moderately high and very balanced, whereas the hop bitterness comes across as quite light and gentle - which is slightly more pronounced than is typical for lambics. The finish is dry, slightly bitter and quite funky with a long, complex aftertaste of peachy stone fruit and lemon marmalade, some resinous hop notes, a little bit of leathery funk and bretty animale notes, light grassy notes of hoppy greenness, a hint of sharp green apple and a touch of fragrant floral character.
This continues to be one of the most unique and fascinating lambics in the Cantillon range: the combination of slightly evolved and moderately funky flavors from the aged base lambic and the fragrant, floral nuances from the dry-hopping process make this a very thrilling an eminently delicious brew. I feel there was a tiny bit of something rubbery here - perhaps reduction? - that slightly distracted from the pleasure, but this was still nonetheless an amazing example of top tier lambic and definitely one of the highlights of the evening. Amazing stuff, highly recommended for the fans of funky, sour beers. Drink now or whenever - properly cellared, this beer isn't going to fall apart anytime soon.
(95 points)
Posted from CellarTracker