In a sense, this is a follow-up to my recent report of a very random tasting, part 1.
These notes are not from any organized tasting; this was just a sit-down at one of the offsite wine cellars in Helsinki where people were pulling some random bottles from their cabinets. Some of these were tasted blind, others were not.
- NV Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Cuvée d'Automne - France, Jura, Arbois (7.6.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed ouillé Savagnin (70%), Chardonnay (20%) and Savagnin sur voile (10%), all fermented spontaneously and aged in 228-liter pièces. The wine is a combination of a few vintages; typically the ouillé wines are aged for 15-36 months in oak barrels, whereas the sous voile wines age oxidatively for 24-36 months. 15,5% alcohol.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels slightly oxidative with Vin Jaune-esque aromas of green almonds and sorrel, some green apple slices, a little bit of roasted nuts, light notes of hay and a hint of bruised quince. The wine feels broad, quite ripe and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and rich, technically dry yet slightly sweet-toned flavors of tart Granny Smith and aldehydic notes of green almonds, some bruised quince, light honeyed tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, a hint of sorrel and an oxidative touch of nuttiness. The high alcohol does lend some obvious warmth to the palate while the high acidity makes the overall feel pretty firm, fresh and structured despite the ripeness and tactile mouthfeel. The finish is warm, long and juicy with a tangy, slightly oxidative aftertaste of stony minerality, some aldehydic notes of sorrel, green almond and salty rancio, light nutty tones, a little bit of bruised quince, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of crunchy bread crust.
A big, rich and characterful traditionalist Jura white that isn't full-on Vin Jaune as there is still so much of that vibrant ouillé fruit, but nodding quite deeply in that direction. Curiously, while Vin Jaunes can be quite substantial wines for Jura, this wine seems quite substantial even when compared to many Vins Jaunes - very few wines reach this level of ripeness, weight or ABV. To me, the wine is maybe even a bit too much and a slightly lower level of ripeness would've been just fine. However, despite the ripeness and high ABV, the wine still manages to show great sense of balance and structure, thanks to its high acidity - I guess we've got to be grateful to Savagnin for this quality. So, in short, this might be not the most balanced traditionalist Jura out there, but it nevertheless manages to scratch that Vin Jaune itch a little bit. Fun stuff for such a sizeable wine.
(90 points) - 2014 Weingut Dreissigacker Geyersberg Riesling - Germany, Rheinhessen (7.6.2024)
13% alcohol.
Pale lemon-yellow color with fain greenish highlights. The nose slightly evolved and - weirdly - a bit green-toned with aromas of lemon marmalade, some minty cough drop tones, a little bit of lime juice, light beeswaxy tones, a hint of dried yellow fruits, a touch of sweet red apple and a whiff of pine needles. The wine is cool, balanced and structured on the palate with a medium body and dry, slightly lean flavors of ripe red apple, some evolved notes of beeswax, a little bit of saline minerality, light lemony notes of citrus fruits, green hints of chopped mint and other herbs and a touch of key lime. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is lively and crisp with a rather long, dry aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light minty green nuances, a hint of beeswax and an aged touch of damp wool.
A nice and pleasantly evolved Riesling with somewhat odd, off-piste green notes of minty herbal character and pine needles. Furthermore, the wine felt maybe a bit on the lean side, slightly lacking in substance. I hope the wine will continue to evolve, resolve and maybe flesh itself out with further aging, but it might be that this wine just isn't made for the long haul and is approaching its plateau of maturity now, at approximately 10 years of age. A fine and balanced dry Riesling, but nothing that would blow your socks off.
(89 points) - 2021 Weingut Schuh Meissner Kapitelberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Sachsen (7.6.2024)
100% Riesling from Meissner Kapitelberg in Sachsen. 7,5% alcohol.
Pale and quite youthful whitish-green color. The nose feels pretty ripe yet still somewhat understated with aromas of apple juice, some zesty citrus fruits, light floral notes of apple blossom and a hint of stony minerality. The wine feels crisp, firm and quite weightless on the palate with a light body and off-dry to medium-sweet flavors of lemon juice, some steely mineral tones, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a little bit of sweet white peach, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of tangy salinity. Pronounced, racy acidity. The finish is juicy, off-dry and pretty acid-driven with a light, medium-long aftertaste of sweet apple juice, some key lime, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity and a zesty hint of lemon.
A nice, crisp and sophisticated little Kabinett. Perhaps a bit understated and slightly flimsy in nature, the wine feels somewhat modest and lacking a bit in depth and substance. Lovely balance between the residual sugar and the brisk acidity, though. I hope the wine would pick some depth and weight with bottle age, but I guess this wine is just built to be a zippy, lightweight and precise little weekday Kabinett with no trill or frills.
(87 points) - 2017 Domaine du Moulin (Hervé Villemade) Cheverny La Bodice - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Cheverny (7.6.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Sauvignon Blanc (80%), Chardonnay (15%) and Menu Pineau (5%). Fermented spontaneously. Vinified without any SO2. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Hazy neon yellow-green color. The nose feels herby and slightly pungent yet characterful with some smoky notes of reduction, light sweet appley tones, a little bit of waxy funk, a hint of grassy greenness and a touch of lemony citrus fruit. The wine feels crisp, dry and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and refreshing flavors of sharp Granny Smith apple, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light grassy herbal nuances, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of green currant. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, lively and crunchy with a moderately long aftertaste of herby greenness, some tart Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light steely mineral notes, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of pithy grapefruit.
A nice, crisp and energetic little Cheverny. Maybe a bit modest and understated in character, lacking depth and complexity. I was surprised how the wine already had some years under its belt, as it felt still very youthful for its age. Fun for a simple everyday white, but maybe a bit pricey for such at approx. 25€.
(89 points) - 2015 Martin Müllen Kröver Kirchlay Riesling Spätlese ** trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7.6.2024)
12% alcohol and 11,3 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels quite dry and somewhat reticent yet still pretty fragrant with aromas of lemon rind and honeysuckle, some mineral notes of crushed rocks, a little bit of steely gun metal, light floral nuances of orange blossom, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of appley fruit. The wine feels brisk, lively and slightly concentrated on the palate with a light-to-medium body and intense, dry flavors of lemony citrus fruits and chalky mineral bitterness, some mineral notes of crushed rocks, a little bit of pithy grapefruit, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a floral hint of orange blossom and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The bracing acidity lends a tremendous amount of structure and energy to the wine, making the overall feel quite lean and tightly-knit, but not too austere or aggressive. The finish is crisp, long and lively with a bone-dry, tightly-wound aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of grapefruit, light sweeter nuances of honeyed richness, a floral hint of orange blossom and a touch of incisive steely character.
A nice but also quite lean and rather unapologetic dry Mosel Riesling that is just barely on this side of austerity. Seven years ago I thought the wine was impressive but quite inapproachable. Well, the wine is still impressive, but it is starting to finally leave that inapproachable phase behind. However, the wine is still VERY high-strung and tightly-knit and probably will remain so for many, many more years - perhaps even forever. As Müllen's wines are known to not only age really well, but to actually require a decade or two of aging before they start to drink well, I think it is not a surprise of any kind that the wine is still this lean at the age of nigh 9 years. This is good stuff, but there's no point in opening these anytime soon - return to this only after another 10 years or so.
(91 points) - 2016 Familie Pierre-Alain Mathier Julius Ligne d'Or - Switzerland, Valais (7.6.2024)
A blend of Amigne, Ermitage (Marsanne) and Petite Arvine. 13,5% alcohol.
Intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels very ripe and sweet-toned with nectarine-driven aromas of yellow stone fruits, some woody tones, a little bit of papaya, light grilled pineapple nuances, hints of toasted oak and creaminess and a floral touch of apple blossom. The wine feels dry, broad and very succulent on the palate with a moderately full body and quite lush flavors of ripe apricots, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of papaya, light toasty notes of nuttiness and caramel, sweet hints of pineapple and honeydew melon and a touch of stony minerality. The wine sports relatively high acidity, especially for such a big and ripe white. The finish is ripe, rich and juicy with a long, layered aftertaste of peachy stone fruit, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of pineapple and other tropical fruit, light toasty nuances, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of stony minerality.
At first the wine seemed quite big and ripe white, but it turned out to be a surprisingly complex and balanced effort after all. Like an illegal love child of white Hermitage and warm-vintage white Burgundy. I guess the wine might've been a bit less voluptuous and more direct but also more oaky in its youth, but seeing how the wine doesn't come across as particularly evolved now, at almost 8 years of age, I can see this wine evolving effortlessly further from here. Drink now or keep. Maybe getting a tad pricey at 41,59€, but not forbiddingly so.
(92 points) - 2002 Querbach Oestricher Lenchen Riesling No. 1 - Germany, Rheingau (7.6.2024)
Fermented spontaneously, aged in stainless steel on the fine lees. 12% alcohol. Bottled under Querbach's StainlessCap.
Intense neon yellow-green color. The nose feels sweet and quite fragrant with attractive aromas of lemon marmalade, some acacia honey, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of beeswax, a developed hint of tinned pineapple and a petrolly touch of diesel. The wine feels broad yet firm, crisp and almost bone-dry on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and complex, slightly evolved flavors of lemon marmalade and quince jam, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of dried pineapple, light petrolly diesel nuances, a hint of tinned peach and a touch of beeswax. The racy acidity lends terrific sense of energy, intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and somewhat steely with an intense, dry aftertaste of lemon marmalade, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of crunchy quince, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a tart hint of key lime and a touch of beeswax.
A classically styled Querbach that is slowly approaching its apogee, yet is still some distance away from it. The wine is starting to exhibit some evolved notes, but the wine is still remarkably brisk, electric and tightly-knit for a Riesling over 20 years old. Quite similar to the vintage 2001 I tasted some six years ago. These Querbach Rieslings are really something. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2019 Georges Dubœuf Beaujolais Nouveau - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais Nouveau (7.6.2024)
100% Gamay vinified with carbonic maceration. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite youthful, somewhat translucent black cherry color with a slightly purplish hue. The nose feels sweet and vibrant with aromas of dark berries, some black cherries, a little bit of raspberry juice, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of savory spice and a distant sweet touch of marmaladey red berries. The wine feels quite ripe but also pretty fresh and lively on the palate with a medium body and fruit-forward flavors of black raspberries, some sweet Bing cherries, a little bit of savory spice, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of licorice and a touch of stony minerality. Good high acidity with gently grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, fruit-driven and slightly grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of sweet black raspberries, some crunchy forest fruits, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light black cherry tones, a hint of savory spice and a touch of wild strawberry.
This wine surprised me. I've never been a fan of Duboeuf's banana bomb Beaujolais Nouveaus, but apparently if you wait for 4½ years, you lose all those in-your face bubblegum-y primary flavors and you actually get to see how the Gamay is beneath those flavors and notes of carbonic fermentation. And truth be told, the wine that was under there, turned out to be pretty nice. Nothing special or particularly complex, but much more serious than what I expected from the label. I was honestly quite confounded when the label was revealed!
(88 points) - 2022 Simpsons Wine Estate Pinot Noir Rabbit Hole - United Kingdom, England, Kent (7.6.2024)
100% Pinot Noir (several different Burgundy clones) from Kent. Fermented with inoculated yeasts and macerated with the skins for two weeks. Pressed into 2-yo French oak barrels for MLF. Aged for 4 months in oak. Bottled lightly filtered. 13% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 6,1 g/l acidity.
Pale, youthful and fully translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels youthful, clean and fruit-driven with aromas of ripe raspberries, some blackberry juice, light wild strawberry tones, a little bit of cherry juice, a hint of herby spice and a faint touch of smoke. The wine feels dry, clean and crunchy on the palate with a light body and fresh flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of ripe Bing cherry, light wild strawberry notes, a brambly hint of fresh raspberries and a sweeter touch of blackberry marmalade. The structure relies heavily on the fresh, high acidity as the light tannins are supple and mellow. The finish is dry, acid-driven and very slightly grippy with a bright aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some cranberries, light blackberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry and a hint of earthy spice.
A nice but maybe a bit too youthful and straightforward little Pinot Noir. Surprisingly serious and promising for an English red. A tad on the light and delicate side, but still a lot better than I expected. Could use a bit of age, though - although not painfully primary, the wine nevertheless comes across as super youthful and might benefit from losing that super fruity extra edge. A tad on the pricey side for the quality at 29,97€, but if you take into account how Burgundy Pinot Noirs are priced today, this is more or less perfectly in line with them.
(90 points) - 2015 Weingut Hermann Grumbach Spätburgunder Gehpfad R trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7.6.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Mosel planted with cuttings from Armand Rousseau - the "R" bottling is a multi-vineyard wine blended from the best lots of the vintage. Aged in oak barriques. Bottle #96 of total 980 bottles. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat dark and moderately translucent pomegranate color with a somewhat evolved maroon hue. The nose feels quite sweet, rather spicy and quite oaky with aromas of red cherries and caramel, some lifted notes of balsamic VA, a little bit of wizened red plum, light funky leather tones, a hint of pipe tobacco and a toasty touch of mocha oak. The wine feels ripe, sunny and quite evolved on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and sweet-toned flavors of soft black cherries and sweet, toasty oak spice, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of strawberry jam, light oaky notes of caramel and cloves, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of vanilla. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the ripe, resolved tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and gently grippy with a dark-toned, moderately long aftertaste of soft black cherries, some toasty oak notes of mocha, caramel and cloves, a little bit of balsamic VA, light strawberry jam nuances and an evolved hit of wizened dark fruits.
I tasted this wine a few years ago and back then I hoped the wine would get better with aging; I hoped the rather overt oak flavors would integrate better with the fruit and the wine would pick up some sense of finesse as it ages. Well, as it almost invariably turns out, a wine cellar isn't a wine hospital; bad wines don't turn into good wines if you age them. The oak here hasn't gone anywhere and the wine is still as oaky as ever, but the vibrant fruit flavors have started to evolve towards the sweeter, more dried-fruit end of the spectrum, making the wine feel heavier and more muddled before, lacking definition. This is a big and sunny Spätburgunder for people who like their Pinot Noirs with sweet fruit and lots of oak. I'm not among them.
(87 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
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