A quick evening of some premium wines from a Finnish wine importer’s portfolio. As this whole event was a somewhat crowded walkaround tasting, I didn’t take any pictures - sorry. You’ll have to work without any visual clues this time.
First things first; yet once again I had to take notice how today the price of premium wines all too rarely equates with quality, at least at this price point - actually some of my biggest favorites were also the most affordable wines in the tasting! And above all, I really don’t “get” the Burgundy pricing anymore. Especially the Grand Cru prices have stopped to make any sense a long time ago.
I guess these tasting notes also show how price-conscious I am. Even though I recognize that most of these wines were available at below their current market prices, I still struggled to find wines that I felt were actually worth their prices. The price point of true premium wines is slowly getting to a point I’m not really comfortable with - even if I can afford to buy many of these wines, I’m just not willing to part with that much money to get only one bottle when I know the world is full of wines that can give you at least as much joy as any of these, for only a fraction of the cost!
Anyways, here we go. Lots of good stuff.
- NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru Bulle de Rosé Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (16.5.2024)
A blend of Pinot Noir (65%), Chardonnay (30%) and Rouge d'Écueil made from Pinot Noir (5%). Partly fermeted and aged in stainless steel, partly in oak barrels. Didn't catch the base vintage or the disgorgement date, but I've understood this is a rather recent disgorgement. 12,5% alcohol, dosage 3,5 g/l.
Pale salmon-pink color. The nose feels a bit restrained and somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of ripe raspberries, some creamy custard tones, a little bit of sweet Fuji apple, light green herby tones, a hint of leesy autolysis, a nutty touch of almond and a whiff of spicy Pinosity. The wine feels dry, fresh and subtly funky on the palate with flavors of ripe Fuji apple, some spicy Pinosity, light leesy notes of autolysis, a little bit of creamy custard character, a nutty hint of slivered almonds and a touch of wild strawberry. Bright, high acidity and a silky, persistent mousse. The finish is dry, lively and quite crunchy with a long, nuanced aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple, some ripe citrus fruits, a little bit of phenolic funk, light cherry nuances, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a creamy touch of custard character.
A lovely, characterful and fresh rosé Champagne with subtly funky undertones and great sense of balance. Thoroughly enjoyable now, but I wouldn't be surprised if the wine continued to evolve, improve and develop those funkier tones in an even more interesting direction with further aging. Drink now or over the next decade or two. Great stuff. Not the most affordable bubbly out there at 77,80€, but arguably manages to deliver for the price. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2016 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling - Germany, Pfalz (16.5.2024)
100% Riesling from the 4,3 ha Goldbächel site, of which Dr. Burklin-Wolf owns 3 ha. 12,5% alcohol.
Intense, somewhat evolved yellow-green color. The nose feels broad, waxy and somewhat evolved with aromas of honeyed richness, some lemon marmalade, a little bit of petrol or diesel, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a faint herby hint of minty greenness, a touch of beeswax and a whiff of wild, phenolic spice. The wine feels dry, steely and somewhat linear on the palate with a medium body and dry, quite intense flavors of tart citrus fruits, some evolved notes of beeswax, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of sharp Granny Smith apple, a hint of tangy salinity and a developed touch of woolly lanolin. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is dry, crunchy and quite palate-cleansing with a moderately long aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple and ripe citrus fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of developed beeswax character, light incisive notes of steely minerality and a hint of diesel.
A pleasant and tasty Riesling; the wine was much more expressive now than it was five years ago, when the wine was still pretty shut and underwhelming. This time the wine had opened to some degree, coming across as not as reticent as before. However, the wine still didn't really manage to create much thrill - the overall feel is still somewhat linear and not as interesting or complex as the best Bürklin-Wolf wines can be. This was good but not great. Somewhat pricey for the quality at 44,90€.
(90 points) - 2019 Didier Dagueneau Silex - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (16.5.2024)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 50-yo vines in Pouilly-Fumé. Fermented spontaneously, aged in partly new oak barrels and 220-liter Wineglobe glass tanks for 12 months, then blended together and aged in tanks for another 6-8 months. 14% alcohol.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels quite ripe and concentrated yet somewhat vegetal and a bit stuff with aromas of crunchy white currants, some chopped green chili, light green herby tones, a little bit of ripe Fuji apple and a hint of creaminess. The wine feels ripe and quite broad yet still surprisingly airy and balanced on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of sweet white currants, some waxy tones, a little bit of salinity and stony minerality, light woody - even sawdusty - notes of untoasted oak, a hint of juicy white peach and a touch of green bell pepper. The high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine, whereas the moderately high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is ripe, juicy and slightly warm with a moderately long aftertaste of ripe red apple, some stony mineral notes, light herbaceous notes of herby greenness and chopped chili, a little bit of waxy richness, a hint of white currants and a sawdusty touch of low-toast oak.
A balanced but not a particularly thrilling Sauvignon Blanc. The overall feel is a bit herbaceous, although the elevated sense of ripeness and sweetness of the fruit flavors offset the most vegetal edge of these green nuances. The bigger problem is with the wood impact; the wine doesn't feel that much oaky, but instead just dull and woody with its almost sawdust-y notes of untoasted oak, making the overall feel somewhat stuffy and not that pleasant. Considering how Silex can age wonderfully for years - even for decades - it is entirely possible that the wine is just way too young at the moment and it will get its game much better together with some aging. I wouldn't touch the wine in another 5 years - in the hopes that additional aging might help the wine come together better. At the moment the wine doesn't really feel worth the price at 98,90€.
(88 points) - 2021 Patrick Piuze Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (16.5.2024)
100% Chardonnay from 1er Cru Vaulorent. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, neutral oak barrels. 12,5% alcohol.
Intense yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe, attractive and quite yellow-fruited with aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple, some honeydew melon, light creamy oak nuances, a little bit of ripe and zesty citrus fruit, a hint of savory spice and a touch of honeysuckle. Lots of things happening here. The wine feels quite ripe but also firm, clean and steely on the palate with a medium body and crisp, slightly concentrated flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some mineral notes of chalk dust, light appley tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of fresh Golden Delicious apple. Bright, high and structured acidity. The finish is long, crisp and somewhat linear with a long, palate-cleansing aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith apple, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of honeyed richness, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of fresh white peach.
A thoroughly classy and wonderfully refreshing 1er Cru Chablis that is very classically styled - despite the understated ripeness, the wine is first and foremost crisp, mineral and acid-drive in character. This doesn't feel like white Burgundy without overt oak influence; this feels like textbook Chablis. Tremendous freshness and focus. The wine is thoroughly enjoyable already now, but I can see it developing additional depth and richness over the next 5-10 years. Great stuff. At 63,90€, this wine is a bit from the pricier end when it comes to 1er Cru Chablis, but the wine delivers for the price. Recommended.
(93 points) - 2020 Camille Giroud Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (16.5.2024)
100% Chardonnay made with purchased fruit from 25-yo vines in Le Charlemagne (16,95 ha) and up to 50-yo vines in Le Rognet et Corton (2,22 ha). Aged in oak barrels (10-20% new). Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep lime-green color with lemon-yellow highlights. The nose feels creamy, nuanced and slightly buttery with aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light smoky notes of struck flint, a hint of cool steely minerality and a hint of lemony citrus fruit. The wine feels silky and quite harmonious but also somewhat mellow on the palate with a medium body and slightly restrained flavors of ripe citrus fruits and sweet white peach, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of crunchy nectarine, light mineral notes of wet rocks and chalk dust, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of buttery character. Balanced moderately high acidity. The finish is long, dry and a bit mellow with a harmonious aftertaste of juicy citrus fruits and fresh Fuji apple, some woody tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light steely mineral notes, a sweeter hint of ripe white peach and a touch of buttery richness.
A wonderfully nuanced and attractive Grand Cru Burg, but I sort of expected more from it - although balanced and harmonious, I expected the wine to be less round and mellow, showing more freshness, structure and flavor intensity. This is undeniably silky - or even creamy - smooth on the palate with good depth of flavor and a lovely undercurrent of cool minerality. However, the flavors feel a bit understated and while not soft, the acidity is still maybe a bit on the round side. The wine is very lovely and thoroughly enjoyable, but in my books nowhere near worth its price at 254,90€.
(92 points) - 2014 Camille Giroud Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (16.5.2024)
100% Pinot Noir made with purchased fruit from 50-yo vines in Charmes-Chambertin. Fully destemmed. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 12-25 days in open-top oak fermentors. Aged in oak barrels (20% new) for 14 months, then blended together and left to marry in stainless steel tanks for another 3 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Slightly hazy pomegranate color. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and expressive with sweet-toned aromas of strawberries and brambly raspberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of fragrant exotic spices, light cherry nuances, an evolved hint of meaty character and a touch of pomegranate. The wine feels silky, resolved and quite gentle on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of ripe cranberries and tobacco, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of sweet raspberry fruit, light evolved meaty and earthy tones, a hint of fresh black cherry and a touch of wood. The overall feel is firm and balanced with the rather high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, harmonious and somewhat grippy with a slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of brambly raspberries and wizened red berries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light earthy tones, a hint of cherry and a tart touch of pomegranate.
An attractive, harmonious and tasty Charmes-Chambertin that feels a bit more evolved than I expected from a 10-yo Grand Cru, but nothing too alarming. Although showing some evolved signs, the wine is still on its way up and I can imagine the wine will develop and improve for at least a handful of years more and keep fine for good number of years more. A fine wine with great sense of depth and balance. Highly recommended. However, at 230€ the wine is just way too pricey for my preference.
(94 points) - 2020 Pierre Girardin Pommard Les Vignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Vinified in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, aged in 456-liter (double-pièce) oak casks. 13% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and slightly translucent cherry-red color with a youthful, subtly blueish hue. The nose feels fresh, sappy and somewhat spicy with aromas of ripe raspberries, some earthy notes of beet and forest floor, a little bit of crunchy dark berries, light fragrant notes of violets and a hint of cranberry compote. The wine feels fresh, dry and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and bright flavors of brambly raspberries, some sweetly-fruited notes of ripe red plums, a little bit of cranberry compote, light earthy notes of beet, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of forest floor. The wine is high in acidity with very supple and gentle tannins. The finish is fresh and lively with a long, bright aftertaste of tart lingonberries and crushed cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of stony minerality, light brambly notes of raspberries and a faint hint of woody oak spice.
A clean, attractive and playful Pommard - very supple and delicate for the appellation. The wine is still super youthful, meaning that it is full of vibrant and slightly sweet-toned fruit, but it is also a bit hard to assess how the wine will be after it matures a little bit more. However, this is thoroughly enjoyable and attractive now, all the same. I'd just wait a few years more with this one. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 68€.
(92 points) - 2021 Pierre Girardin Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from Aux Réas and La Croix Blanche lieux-dits in Vosne-Romanée, where the average vine age is +30 years. 90% in whole bunches, 10% destemmed. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 456-liter (double-pièce) oak casks (30% new) for 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep and moderately translucent cherry-red color with a youthful, purplish hue. The nose feels dark-toned and quite sweetly-fruited with aromas of juicy black raspberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light smoky nuances, a flatulent hint of skunky reduction and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The wine feels clean, crunchy and somewhat sweetly-fruited on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of brambly black raspberries and fresh cranberries, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of sweet exotic spice, light floral notes of violets, a hint of sweet dark berries and a touch of earth. The wine is high in acidity, whereas the supple tannins feel gentle and mellow. The finish is juicy, ripe and quite crunchy with a long aftertaste of blueberries and black raspberries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light gravelly mineral notes, a hint of earth and a floral touch of violets.
An elegant, silky and very youthful Vosne-Romanée. Due to the young age of the wine, the toasty oak tones are still a bit to the fore, but most likely they will integrate with the fruit as the wine ages. However, the wine doesn't feel like a wine that really calls for aging otherwise - its tannins are so soft and gentle to begin with and the overall is surprisingly ripe and sweet-toned, at least for the 2021 vintage. This is good, but with its somewhat soft and sweet-toned overall feel, it is maybe a bit of a crowdpleaser - at least for my palate. Feels somewhat pricey for the quality at 103,90€.
(90 points) - 2020 Pierre Girardin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Vinified mainly in whole bunches, fermented spontaneously, aged in 456-liter (double-pièce) oak casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol.
Rather deep and moderately opaque deep cherry color with a youthful, faint blueish hue. The nose feels sweet, dark-toned and a bit stuff with aromas of black cherries, some sweet blackberries, light woody tones, a little bit of damp earth, light boysenberries, a skunky hint of flatulent reduction and a touch of toasty mocha oak. The wine feels surprisingly ripe, dark-toned and concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of black cherries, some ripe cranberries, a little bit of earth, light ferrous notes of blood, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a toasty touch of sweeter, brooding mocha oak. The overall feel is pretty firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and slightly grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is crunchy, slightly grippy and a bit warm with a long, dark-toned aftertaste of ripe dark berries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of juicy black raspberry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of tobacco and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A very ripe, juicy and dark-toned 1er Cru Chambolle-Musigny that comes across as noticeably riper and burlier than the 2020 Pommard Les Vignots and slightly bigger than the 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots that we tasted at the same time. Despite the ripeness and sweet-toned fruit, the wine still retains surprisingly nice sense of balance and structure, thanks to the high acidity and its somewhat perceptible tannic grip that brings welcome firmness to the texture. However, my biggest beef is the 14% alcohol that is starting to feel a bit too pronounced - even if the wine is somewhat big for a Burgundy, it isn't big and burly enough to mask away that sense of warmth. All in all, this is good, but this could be also quite a bit better - not really worth the 150€.
(91 points) - 2020 Pierre Girardin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from an old (+70 yo) parcel in Les Suchots, a 1er Cru vineyard located between two Grand Cru vineyards in Vosne-Romanée. 75% of the fruit is vinified in whole bunches, 25% destemmed. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 456-liter (double-pièce) oak casks (60% new) for 12 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and quite translucent black cherry color with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels fragrant, dark-toned and somewhat sweetish with aromas of ripe black raspberries, some exotic spices, a little bit of ferrous blood, light plummy tones, a hint of licorice root and a toasty touch of mocha oak. The wine feels ripe, silky and open-knit on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of juicy cranberries, some ripe black raspberries, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of fresh black cherry, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a toasty touch of mocha oak. The wine is high in acidity, with firm, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, ripe and gently grippy with a slightly sweetly-fruited aftertaste of black raspberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light inky tones, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a sweeter touch of dark plummy fruit.
A juicy and vibrant 1er Cru Vosne-Romanée that bears the ripe, dark-fruited character of the 2020 vintage, but at the same time enough firmness and structure to hold up all that rich fruit. The oak impact is still quite noticeable, but as the wine is still so young, I expect the toasty oak tones to integrate better with the fruit as the wine ages. All in all, a lovely and promising Burg with lots of upside - although I'm not particularly sure if the wine is ever going to be worth its price at 175€...
(92 points) - 2020 Pierre Girardin Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from a +40 yo parcel in the upper part of Clos de Vougeot. 100% in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, aged in 456-liter (double-pièce) oak casks (80% new) for 10 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and somewhat translucent black cherry color with a youthful, subtly blueish hue. The nose feels brooding, a bit wild and somewhat closed with slightly understated aromas of crushed lingonberries and cranberries, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of animale, light autumnal earthy tones, a hint of toasty wood and a touch of sweet black cherry. The wine feels brooding, dry and a bit understated on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of fresh cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tart crowberry, light brambly notes of raspberries, a hint of lingonberry and a toasty touch of sweet, brooding oak spice. The overall feel is still quite sinewy and a bit tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and firm medium tannins. The finish is juicy, dark-toned and somewhat grippy with a long, slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of ripe black cherry, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of tart cranberry, light earthy nuances, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A surprisingly understated and tightly-knit wine, at least after four more expressive bottles of Pierre Girardin. Sure, it might be that as this was the only Grand Cru in the lineup, the wine was just opened way too soon (compared to the 1er Cru and Village-level bottlings) and the wine still needs years to really open up. At the moment the wine doesn't give much and it is by far the least expressive, most understated wine of all the tasted bottles - and I really hope the wine starts to get its game together with additional aging. Conversely, the wine felt like the most ageworthy as well - at least from the structural point of view - so most likely the wine won't have problems with aging. However, at 199€, this is a pass for me.
(89 points) - 2021 Birichino Pinot Noir Rodnick Farm - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from Rodnick Farm, originally planted in 1986 to different clones of Pinot Noir. Harvested on September 3rd, 2021. Fermented spontaneously, aged in oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol, 5,7 g/l acidity and pH 3,58. Total production 9 barrels / 165 cases.
Youthful, rather pale and quite translucent raspberry-red color. The nose feels youthful, fragrant and a bit dusty with aromas of brambly raspberries, some crunchy crowberries, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light notes of tobacco and a hint of sandy soil. The wine feels dry yet rather ripe on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of sweet raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light crunchy notes of fresh red plums, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of tobacco. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the supple, mellow medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy, fruit-driven and gently grippy with a rather long aftertaste of brambly raspberries, some sweet strawberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light crunchy crowberry tones, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of dusty earth.
A nice but maybe a bit underwhelming and straightforward Birichino Pinot Noir. I've loved many Birichino wines and especially their Pinot Noirs have left and very positive impression. However, this wine doesn't really do much. It's thoroughly good with nice sense of balance and lovely sense of vibrancy. However, it lacks that special something that would make it memorable - this drinks like a balanced but not particularly interesting Cali Pinot. Pleasant and enjoyable, but maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 47,90€.
(89 points) - 2021 Birichino Pinot Noir Enz Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley (16.5.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from Enz Vineyard. 70% destemmed. Fermented spontaneously in an open-top fermentor. Aged in old French barriques for 13 months. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, translucent ruby to raspberry red color. The nose feels fragrant, somewhat floral and thoroughly attractive with layered aromas of wild strawberries, some stemmy herbal notes, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light earthy notes, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of violets and a whiff of licorice root. The wine feels fresh and focused on the palate with flavors of brambly raspberries and tart cranberries, some stemmy herbal tones, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of wild strawberry, a hint of earthy Pinosity and a touch of exotic spices. The wine is quite high in acidity with firm yet very ripe and textural medium tannins. The finish is long, savory and gently grippy with a quite intense aftertaste of dark berries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of fresh cherry, light earthy notes of garrigue, a hint of tobacco and a touch of brambly raspberry.
A nice, harmonious and tasty Pinot Noir. Where some Birichino Pinot Noirs have come across as surprisingly Burgundian, this wine feels markedly more Californian in character - a very fresh and poised cool-climate Californian, mind you. There's no sense of sweetness, softness or over-ripeness here as the wine is pretty fresh and crunchy with a healthy amount of acidity and a nice dose of earthy non-fruit flavors. However, I guess it's the very fragrant, fruit-driven quality that makes me think more of California than Burgundy here. Not that I mind - this is a pretty lovely expression of Pinot Noir. It is maybe a bit primary, so I can see the wine benefiting from a few years of additional aging. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 47,90€. Recommended.
(90 points) - 2019 Birichino Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (16.5.2024)
100% organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon from planted in the 1950's to Peter Martin Ray Vineyard. Fully destemmed, fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 21 days. Aged in four French oak barrels (20% new) for 21 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, quite deep and slightly translucent dark ruby red color. The nose feels quite sweet, intense and wonderfully pure with vibrant aromas of ripe blackcurrants, some black cherries, a little bit of blueberry, light notes of tobacco, a hint of brambly raspberry and a herbaceous touch of leafy greenness. The wine feels lively, youthful yet not primary and pure-fruited on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of fresh redcurrants, some tart red plums, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, sweeter hints of ripe black raspberries and blackcurrants and a touch of crunchy crowberry. The wine is high in acidity with ample yet ripe and supple tannins. The finish is long, crunchy and gently grippy with a vibrant aftertaste of tart cranberries and red plums, some ripe redcurrants, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of juicy cassis character and a herbaceous touch of leafy character.
A very classy, sophisticated and harmonious Cab that is all about freshness, good flavor intensity and purity of fruit. This tastes like a cool-climate Cab with a healthy amount of ripeness and not an ounce too much oak impact - on the contrary, what little new oak the wine had seen didn't really show at any point and only in the aftertaste was a tiny, woodsy nuance that only contributed to the complexity. All the other oaky nuances were intermingling with the intense fruit aromas and flavors so seamlessly that the wine tasted just of pure Cabernet Sauvignon. Apart from the quite supple and gentle tannins, this wine seemed more like a classic old-school Bordeaux rather than a ripe, concentrated Cali Cab, so I guess it depends on your preference whether you like this kind of not-so-muscular, less flashy Cab. I certainly enjoyed this one - this is really a Bordeaux drinker's Cali Cab. Drink now or over the next 10-15 years. Priced more or less according to its quality at 69€.
(93 points) - 2021 Ridge Lytton Springs - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley (16.5.2024)
A blend of Zinfandel (72%), Petite Sirah (15%), Carignan (9%), Alicante Bouschet (2%), Cinsaut (1%) and Counoise (1%) sourced from many parcels in the Lytton Springs vineyard, including some centenarian old-vine parcels. The harvest started on 1st of September and ended on 5th of October. Fully destemmed and crushed. Fermented spontaneously. The wine was blended using 34 separate fermentation lots, selected from a total of 38 different ferments. Aged in American oak (17% new, 3% second, 10% third, 10% fourth use barrels, 60% older) for 16 months. 14,3% alcohol, 5,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,58.
Deep, dark and somewhat opaque black cherry color. The nose feels lush and fragrant with sweet-toned aromas of ripe blueberries and boysenberries, some black raspberry jam, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sweet exotic spices, a hint of dark plummy fruit, a touch of vanilla oak and a touch of Chambord liqueur. The wine feels ripe, rich and somewhat spicy on the palate with a full body and vibrant flavors of boysenberries and jammy black raspberries, some wizened dark berries, a little bit of sweet baking spice, light juicy notes of ripe black cherries and dark plums, a hint of vanilla oak and a faint lactic touch of diacetyl. The overall feel is firm and balanced with the rather high acidity and balanced medium tannins. The finish is rich, juicy and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of dark plums and boysenberry jam, some blueberry tones, a little bit of vanilla oak, light nuances of savory spices, a hint of Chambord and a faint touch of lactic character.
A tasty and harmonious but also still a bit too young and thus slightly clumsy vintage of Lytton Springs. The wine still feels a bit primary, making the fruit flavors come across not only as very youthful, but also a bit jammy. Furthermore, there seems to be a tiny streak of lactic character from the MLF that sticks out a tiny bit now, but is most likely going to integrate and fade away over the next handful of years. The wine shows great sense of promise and even if the wine might be a bit sweeter and slightly more supple than the cooler, more structure-driven vintages, I can still imagine this wine will perform wonderfully when it has some more years under its belt. Most likely will be singing on its 10th birthday. Good stuff, priced according to its quality at 53€.
(91 points) - 2020 Domaine de Trévallon - France, Provence, Alpilles (16.5.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and Syrah (50%) harvested between the last week of August and mid-to-late September. Vinified entirely in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously. Aged on the lees in foudres and oak barrels for at least two years. Fined but not filtered before bottling. 13,5% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent cherry-red color with a pale, limpid rim. The nose feels juicy, characterful and somewhat Bordelais with layered aromas of ripe redcurrants and juicy red plums, some leafy herbaceous Cab notes, a little bit of dusty wood, light herbaceous notes of bell pepper, crunchy hints of blackcurrants and brambly blackberries, a touch of garrigue and a whiff of smoke. Lots of things going on here. The wine feels surprisingly fresh and firm on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of ripe red plums and crunchy redcurrants, some tobacco, light herbaceous notes of ripe bell pepper and currant leaves, a little bit of dusty old wood, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of garrigue. The overall feel is enjoyably structure-driven with the high acidity and ample, moderately grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The finish is long, complex and moderately grippy with an intense aftertaste of crunchy redcurrants and vibrant red plummy fruit, some notes of tobacco and garrigue, light herbaceous leafy tones, a little bit of fresh blackcurrant and brambly blackberry, a salty, ferrous hint of blood and a touch of ripe bell pepper.
A very harmonious, sophisticated and surprisingly fresh and lively red that feels like an old-school Bordeaux - except that usually you get to taste wines like these when they are 30 years old! What I mean by this is that this tastes like how they made Bordeaux for the last time in the 1990's - the Bordeaux wines made today are rarely this fresh, stern of herbaceous in style. And I don't mean unripe - the wine shows great sense of ripeness and vibrancy. The wine just exhibits those herbaceous Cabernet Sauvignon notes (that I love) which used to be the hallmark of Left-Bank Bordeaux - and which are noticeably absent in Bordeaux wines made today. This is a terrific, skillfully made wine that really speaks to the fans of traditional Bordeaux. Although the wine is drinking really well right now, I can see this improving greatly over the next decade or two. Not the most affordable wine out there at 77€, but manages easily to deliver for the price. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2020 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Pays d'Hérault - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault (16.5.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Syrah, some Carignan and a tiny bit of Counoise. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 2 years in 228-liter oak pièces (25-30% new). 14% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent pomegranate color that doesn't look young nor old. The nose feels savory, fragrant and somewhat meaty with aromas of blueberries, some floral notes of elderflower, a little bit of crushed raspberries, light brambly notes of blackberries, a hint of exotic spices, a touch of gamey meat and a whiff of fresh dark fruits. The wine feels dry, savory and a bit reticent on the palate with a medium body and a bit understated flavors of gravelly minerality, some tart dark berries, a little bit of tobacco, light earthy notes of garrigue, a sweeter hint of ripe bilberry and a floral touch of elderflowers and violets. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the quite friendly and supple medium-minus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is savory, dark-toned and gently grippy with a moderately long aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some tobacco, a little bit of earth and garrigue, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of crunchy cranberry and a touch of floral spices.
A harmonious and silky but also somewhat understated and mellow vintage of Grange des Pères. Tasted at the same time with the 2019 and 2018 vintages, this 2020 seemed the lightest and most understated in character, lacking the intensity and firmness present in the other two vintages. As this was the youngest vintage, it is entirely possible that the wine was just still too young and calls for additional aging to open up. However, as the tannins seemed relatively soft and easy for a Grange des Pères, I wonder if this vintage will be as ageworthy as the best vintages? This was a thoroughly pleasant and delicious effort, but maybe not that much that I'd be willing to pay 100€ for this.
(91 points) - 2019 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Pays d'Hérault - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault (16.5.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Syrah, some Carignan and a tiny bit of Counoise. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 2 years in 228-liter oak pièces (25-30% new). 14,5% alcohol.
Deep, moderately dark and rather opaque black cherry color that doesn't look particularly old nor that youthful. The nose feels clean, fragrant and attractive with layererd aromas of dark forest fruits, some sweeter blueberry tones, a little bit of leather saddle, light floral notes of elderflowers and violets, an earthy hint of garrigue, a juicy touch of dark plums and a whiff of licorice root. The wine feels ripe, firm and vibrant on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of fresh forest fruits and ripe bilberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of garrigue, light savory notes of game and meaty umami, hints of licorice root and exotic spices and a touch of juicy, dark plummy fruit. The overall structure relies more on the high acidity than on the ripe, textural medium tannins. The finish is long, juicy and somewhat grippy with a vibrant aftertaste of ripe bilberries and crunchy dark berries, some licorice tones, a little bit of garrigue, light plummy tones, a hint of leather saddle and a floral touch of elderflower.
A tasty, harmonious and simply just very classic vintage of Grange des Pères. The tannins are maybe a bit on the softer, less grippy side, but otherwise the wine shows the hallmarks of this label: great balance between the rather sunny, southerly fruit and good acidity, accentuated by the fragrant floral overtones and a tiniest bit of leathery funk that doesn't really feel that rustic - only reminds that the wine is vinified in a rather hands-off fashion. This is a lovely, nuanced wine that can be enjoyed right now, but I can see this wine benefiting wonderfully from additional aging - I would let the wine wait at least until its 10th birthday before popping any open. Not particularly affordable at 100€, but I'm quite sure the wine will continue to evolve so that it will be worth the price in due time.
(93 points) - 2018 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Pays d'Hérault - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault (16.5.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Syrah, some Carignan and a tiny bit of Counoise. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 2 years in 228-liter oak pièces (25-30% new). 14% alcohol.
Deep, moderately dark and rather opaque black cherry color with a subtly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels dark-toned, somewhat restrained and rather sweetly-fruited with a bit evolved aromas of ripe blackberries and other forest fruits, some tobacco, a little bit of balsamic VA, light raisiny notes of dried dark fruits, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of garrigue. The wine feels dry, extracted and a bit restrained on the palate with a full body and rather solar flavors of brambly black raspberries, some tobacco, light tart notes of red plums and cranberries, a little bit of old leather, light sweeter notes of raisins and pruney dark fruit and a touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is pretty stern and tightly-knit, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is is ripe, savory yet rather sweet-toned and quite grippy with a long, intense aftertaste of tobacco and old leather, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of extracted bitterness, light sweeter notes of juicy black raspberry and raisiny dark fruit, a hint of tart cranberry and a touch of balsamic VA.
While an enjoyably firm and structured vintage, this comes across as noticeably solar in character as well, lacking the finesse and elegance typical of the label. Tasting this vintage after the two lighter but noticeably more vibrant, less sweet-toned vintages (2019, 2020), this 2018 comes across as too sunny, clumsy and pruney. The wine manages to retain the great freshness that comes from the rather high acidity, and there are enough tannins to make the wine feel pretty stern and muscular in overall character. However, the hot vintage shows a bit too much through in the notes of dried fruits and balsamic VA. This is an impressive wine in its own right, but of the three vintages of Grande des Pères we tasted, this was my least favorite and not really worth the 100€.
(90 points) - 2020 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (16.5.2024)
100% Syrah sourced from 20 parcels in 15 different vineyards. The fruit is vinified in whole bunches and macerated with the skins for three weeks. Aged for 22 months in oak barrels (about 15% new). 14% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat translucent blackish-red color. The nose feels dark-toned and quite expressive with layered aromas of fresh forest fruits, some crushed black peppercorns, a little bit of olive, light sweeter notes of ripe blackberries, a floral hint of violets, a fragrant touch of garrigue and a smoky whiff of reduction. The wine feels dry, lively and clean on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of tart cranberries and brambly blackberries, some olive tones, a little bit of crushed black peppercorns, light gravelly mineral notes, a hint of ripe black raspberry and a touch of salinity. The overall feel is firm and quite sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, crunchy and moderately grippy with an intense aftertaste of ripe blackberries and tart lingonberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light spicy notes of black pepper, hints of tapenade and Kalamata olives and a touch of garrigue.
A fantastic, very youthful yet not primary Côte-Rôtie that is brimming with aging potential. The wine does show some ripeness, but the overall feel is still remarkably fresh, crunchy and acid-driven for the style and the vintage - more or less the same way as the superb 2019 vintage. The wine is honestly a textbook Syrah with its classic notes of blackberries, olives and black peppercorns, but as it is relatively delicate and light on its feet, it is very hard to describe the wine concisely in any other way than saying that its expression is just very Burgundian. While enormously enjoyable and delicious now, I'm sure this wine will easily continue to evolve and improve for many, many years more - the rule of 15 definitely applies here. Drink now if you have enough bottles stashed away, but if you have only one or two bottles, I heartily suggest giving the wines some age in a cellar. Solid value at 82,90€.
(95 points) - 2020 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (16.5.2024)
100% Syrah blended from old-vine parcels in the Beaume, Bessards, Diognieres, L’Hermite, Meal, Peleat and Vercandiered lieux-dits on the Hermitage hill. The fruit is partially destemmed, then fermented spontaneously in concrete vats, open-top oak fermentors and stainless steel tanks. Aged for 18 months in 228-liter oak pièces (approximately 10% new). 14,5% alcohol. Bottle #11359.
Youthful, slightly translucent and quite dark ruby-red color with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels open, fragrant and quite intense with attractive aromas of crushed red berries, some inky tones, a little bit of ripe blackberry, light meaty notes of game, a floral hint of violets, a touch of plummy dark fruit and a ferrous whiff of blood. The wine feels ripe, rather airy and quite open-knit on the palate with a moderately full body and juicy flavors of sweet-yet-tart red plums, some cherry tones, a little bit of ripe blackberry and boysenberry, light floral notes of violets, a hint of bacon and a touch of savory wood spice. The overall feel is pretty gentle and silky, thanks to the moderately high acidity and soft, supple medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy, sweetly-fruited and very gently grippy with a long, dark-toned aftertaste of blackberries, some crunchy red plums, light cherry tones, a little bit of ripe blueberry, a floral hint of violets and a faint woody touch of savory oak spice.
An attractive, harmonious and silky Hermitage, but also one that feels a bit too soft and sweet-toned for my preference. This is aromatically wonderfully fragrant and eminently captivating, but on the palate the wine lacks the focus and intensity that the nose showed. The acidity feels high enough to keep the wine in balance, but the overall feel is so ripe and sweetly-fruited that I honestly wanted the wine to show even a bit more acidity. Furthermore, the tannins are remarkably soft and mellow - I expected an Hermitage only a couple of years old to show stern, grippy structure, but the overall feel was just very gentle and supple instead. even if this was a lovely and thoroughly enjoyable wine in its own right, I enjoyed the somewhat less sweet and more structure-driven Jamet Côte-Rôtie - that we tasted at the same time - noticeably more. At 198€, the wine failed to reach the expectations set by the price.
(92 points) - 2017 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.5.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from parcels in the Pajè vineyard that are 40 years old on average. Fermented in open-top oak fermentors. Macerated with the skins for 60-70 days using the submerged cap technique. Aged for approximately 5 years in old oak barrels. 14,5% alcohol. Annual production approximately 7000 bottles.
Luminous, limpid and fully translucent brick-red color that is surprisingly pale, even for a Nebbiolo. The nose feels savory and somewhat restrained with aromas of tobacco, some gravelly minerality, light sweeter notes of red fruits, a little bit of meaty character, a hint of dried flowers, a touch of crunchy cranberry and a whiff of sun-baked earth. The wine feels silky, somewhat restrained and surprisingly delicate on the palate with a light-to-medium body and relatively reticent flavors of ripe cranberries, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of old leather, light sweeter notes of wizened dark berries, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of licorice. The alcohol shows to some degree, as it feels there is not enough fruit to mask away the alcohol taste or warmth. The overall feel is quite open-knit and gentle with the moderately high acidity and ripe, supple tannins. The finish is savory, quite long and gently grippy with a soft, savory aftertaste of dark berries and wizened black raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light earthy tones, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of licorice.
A surprisingly light, delicate and even rather understated single-vineyard Barbaresco. Normally 2017 Barolos and Barbarescos haven't been much to my liking because they've been so tough, clumsy and lacking elegance - you can normally taste the heat and drought of the vintage in the wines. This Pajè, however, is a polar opposite: it feels as if the producer wanted to avoid the tough, unbalanced tannins that so many other Nebbiolos have suffered from (as the hot, solar vintage made the grapes have thick skins and low juice-to-skin ratio, resulting in excessively tannic grapes), vinifying the wine as gently as possible. The resulting wine is, however, all too underwhelming for my palate. The wine lacks body, depth and flavor intensity - I've had Langhe Nebbiolos that have been more impressive than this - and although the wine lacks the tough tannins of the 2017, it still sports a relatively modest level of acidity - thanks to the hot vintage. This is a delicate and graceful wine, like, say, a Volnay is. I, however, like my Barbarescos with more varietal typicity - intense Nebbiolo flavors, high acidity and firm tannins. Not really my cuppa. Feels expensive for the quality at 125€.
(88 points) - 2017 Roagna Barbaresco Faset - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (16.5.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from parcels in the Faset vineyard. Fermented in open-top oak fermentors. Macerated with the skins for 60-70 days using the submerged cap technique. Aged for approximately 5 years in old oak barrels. 14,5% alcohol.
Limpid, remarkably pale and translucent brick-red - almost brick-orange - color. The nose feels sweet and fragrant with aromas of wild strawberries, some ripe cranberry tones, light floral notes of rose hips, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of cooked rose hips, a touch of fresh red plums and a ferrous whiff of blood. The wine feels ripe, silky and a bit round on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of wild strawberries, some tobacco, light savory meaty tones, a little bit of cooked rose hips, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a developed touch of gamey meat or beef jerky. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate and the overall feel is somewhat firm yet still a bit soft, thanks to the medium-plus acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, sweet-toned and moderately grippy with a rather long aftertaste of ripe cherries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of tobacco, light plummy tones, a hint of rose hips and a touch of crunchy cranberry.
I was surprised by the pale color of the wine - it seemed remarkably pale, even for a Nebbiolo, and also somewhat more evolved than I expected from such a young Barbaresco. However, the wine seemed quite typical on the palate, so the very pale and translucent appearance managed to fool me. On the palate the wine seems rather typical for a 2017 Nebbiolo: ripe, sweet-toned and rather tannic, suffering from somewhat modest levels of acidity. Despite the moderately tannic backbone, the wine is very approachable and quite mellow for a 6-yo Barolo. While I found the wine a bit more impressive than the underwhelming 2017 Roagna Pajè, I must say that I still wasn't won over. 2017 continues to be a vintage I will happily avoid. Not really worth the price at 119€.
(89 points) - 2017 Roagna Barolo Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (16.5.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from parcels in the 7-hectare Pira monopole vineyard that are 25 years old on average - the oldest parcels are from 1937. Fermented in open-top oak fermentors. Macerated with the skins for 60-70 days using the submerged cap technique. Aged for approximately 5 years in old oak barrels. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, fully translucent and relatively pale brick-red color. The nose feels sweet, sunny and fragrant with layered aromas of ripe cherries and raspberries, some pipe tobacco, light strawberry nuances, a little bit of minty greenness, a hint of something meaty and a sweeter touch of cranberry sauce. The wine feels clean, ripe and quite youthful on the palate with a moderately full body and quite solar flavors of sweet raspberries, some wild strawberries, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine feels balanced but maybe a bit mellow for a Barolo with the quite high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, savory and rather grippy with a nuanced aftertaste of tobacco and ripe cranberry, some brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of old leather.
A tasty and quite harmonious effort, especially for the difficult 2017 vintage. Typically Barolos from this vintage have suffered from quite modest acidity and often aggressive, over-extracted tannins; this wine is maybe a bit gentle in acidity and tannins for a Barolo, but at least the overall feel is nicely in balance. Also the alcohol stays nicely in the background and there's good sense of nuance to the flavors. This wine might not be a particularly impressive or memorable vintage for a Roagna Barolo or Barbaresco, but this was nonetheless the best 2017 Roagna I tasted from the lineup of Pajè, Pira and Faset. Despite being an enjoyable Barolo in its own right, I feel the wine doesn't really offer value for the money at 120€.
(91 points) - 2019 Hewitson Shiraz Mother Vine Monopole - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (16.5.2024)
100% Syrah propagated from a single pre-phylloxeric vine growing in The Old Garden vineyard, planted to Mourvèdre in 1853; the cuttings have been grafted to 30-yo rootstocks. 2/3 destemmed and crushed, 1/3 vinified in whole bunches. Fermented and macerated with the skins over three weeks. Aged for two years in new and once-used French oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Dense and more or less fully opaque black color. The nose feels ripe and dark-toned with aromas of dark plums and concentrated blackberry tones, some minty greenness, light notes of tobacco, a little bit of peppery spice, a toasty hint of dark-toned oak spice, a touch of eucalyptus and a whiff of charred bacon. The wine feels dense, dry and extracted on the palate with a chewy, full body and intense flavors of dark plummy fruit and ripe blackberry, some licorice tones, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of woody oak spice, a hint of eucalyptus and a touch of salty liquorice. Despite being quite big, ripe and chewy, the wine is surprisingly high in acidity. The firm yet ripe medium tannins also contribute to the firmness and to the textural overall feel. The finish is savory, gently grippy and slightly warm with a long, intense aftertaste of salty liquorice and concentrated dark fruit tones, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of peppery spice, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of licorice root and a touch of minty greenness.
A surprisingly firm and balanced effort for such a big, extracted and chewy wine. Stylistically the wine is not anywhere near my wheelhouse - it is just too big, ripe and oaky for my preference - but I must admit that I expected the wine to be much bigger, clumsier and heavier. This is big, yes, but shows good sense of finesse, structure and harmony for such a monolithic wine. I guess this is a very impressive wine if you like big blockbusters but still want them to show actually some sense of finesse and balance as well, not just everything on full blast with no sense of harmony whatsoever. Good stuff considering how much better this was than I anticipated. Nevertheless, to me, this feels quite pricey at 78€.
(90 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
