The last tasting I personally arranged in 2022 was this Grüner Veltliner tasting. At some point I noticed I had accumulated Grüner Veltliner bottles of various ages in my cellar, so instead of drinking one here and another there, I decided to gather a good deal of them into one big tasting and drink them at one go.
And as seems to be quite usual for our tastings, the attendees brought some extra bottles we had before and after the tasting proper. All blind, of course! First we had two whites from some very obscure grape varieties, then we had all the Grüner Veltliners. After the tasting one attendee fetched an extra Veyder-Malberg from his cellar and from there we went back to blind tasting.
Regarding the Grüner Veltliners, all the bottles were opened and double-decanted an hour before the tasting. I don’t know how much it helped most of the wines, but at least none seemed to have suffered from extra aeration. I just knew some wines have had some tendency toward reduction and since we had a few wines with screwcap closures, I thought a little bit of breathing didn’t hurt them.
As I have noticed in the past, Grüner Veltliner seems to benefit greatly from bottle age - at least if you don’t mind having your whites pick up some weight and substance. When it came to the wines that had 10 years or more of bottle age, most wines seemed to be quite rich and bold, concentrated by the age, showing remarkable depth and complexity. Although I doubt the wines weren’t light, wimpy wines in their youth, I have a hunch they weren’t as rich and powerful, either. Furthermore, none of the wines seemed to be over the hill in any way - on the contrary, even wines almost quarter a century old seemed to be still going uphill! I’m not sure if people realize how ageworthy a good Grüner Veltliner can be!
But then there is the big elephant in the room: Wachau and its three-tier quality ladder (Steinfeder/Federspiel/Smaragd) that is based on level of ripeness / potential alcohol. I can understand this system made sense back in the day when basic wines were low-alc Steinfeders and more impressive wines were Federspiels. Smaragd was a style you could think of only in exceptional vintages, unless you had prime vineyard spots. However, now the system feels more of a joke when vintages are so hot that most winemakers make Smaragd even if they didn’t want to and it is virtually impossible to make Steinfeder anymore. This was painfully obvious in the 2015 Rudi Pichler wine which was a Federspiel (clocking in at 12,5%), but with its richness, power and noticeably ripe fruit, it was a dead ringer for a Smaragd. It stood in stark contrast to Domäne Wachau’s 2015 Smaragd that had 13% alcohol, but stylistically was closer to a traditional Federspiel. It seems the system based on ripeness alone is getting quite outdated with these warmer vintages.
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2019 Passaggio Trousseau Gris Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (19.11.2022)
Made with a pink-skinned mutation of Trousseau, sourced form a vineyard planted in 1981. 13,1% alcohol. Only 24 cases made. Tasted blind.
Pale, almost completely colorless and quite watery whitish-green color. The nose feels somewhat woolly and a bit neutral with quite light aromas of pear, some gummi bear, a little bit of sweet floral character, light crunchy notes of fresh Golden Delicious apple and a mineral hint of chalk dust. The wine is dry, fresh and youthful on the palate with a medium body and somewhat neutral flavors of crunchy white currants, some mineral notes of chalk dust and wet rocks, a little bit of unripe pear, light woolly notes of lanolin and a sweet hint of ripe white peach. The good acidity makes the wine feel balanced and quite refreshing. The finish is crisp, fresh and lively with a moderately long, acid-driven aftertaste of crunchy white currants, some fresh apple tones, a little bit of damp wool, light sweeter notes of white peach, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of zesty citrus fruit.
A pleasant, somewhat neutral and slightly woolly little white wine. The overall style is enjoyably refreshing, but considering how the wine is made with a very rare and obscure grape variety, there is very little character or complexity going on here. I enjoyed the slightly weightier and more ripe 2018 vintage more, because it really didn't feel any softer or heavier than this 2019 - just packing more intensity and lacking those woolly notes that make this feel a bit dull, muddling some of that nice freshness. Quite enjoyable, but that's all there is to it.
(86 points) -
2019 Fratelli Addimanda Aciniell' Campania IGT - Italy, Campania, Campania IGT (19.11.2022)
100% Rovello Bianco aka. Grecomusc', a rare, almost extinct Campanian variety not related to Greco despite its name. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, pale and almost colorless whitish-green appearance. The nose feels youthful, fragrant and slightly perfumed with sweet-toned aromas of fresh white fruits, some Muscat-like floral tones, a little bit of ripe red apple, light primary notes of juicy pear, a hint of cantaloupe and a touch of waxy richness. The wine feels firm, moderately concentrated and at the same time surprisingly fresh on the palate with a medium body and very intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits and candied key lime, some cantaloupe, light chalky mineral tones, a little bit of salty liquorice and a hint of perfumed floral character. The pronounced, almost bracing acidity lends the wine excellent sense of freshness and structure despite its big body and sense of concentration. The finish is fresh, crisp and lively with a long and intense aftertaste of zesty notes of lemon, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light floral nuances and a hint of waxy richness.
Usually many rare and obscure varieties are rare and obscure for a good reason - most tend to make limpid, bland wines with no real character. However, this Rovello Bianco seems to be a completely different story! This white wine definitely showed some ripeness and sense of concentration that can be expected from a white wine from Taurasi; however, the overall feel was still remarkably mineral and acid-driven so that the wine never once felt big, soft or clumsy despite its sense of volume and substance. It's hard to assess whether this wine will continue to improve and evolve with age, but this is a very complete wine already this young. Superb stuff, highly recommended.
(92 points) -
2020 Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner StockWerk - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (19.11.2022)
100% organically farmed Grüner Veltliner. Fermented in stainless steel tank, aged on the lees until the spring following the harvest. 12% alcohol.
Youthful medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful and fragrant with rather straightforward aromas of ripe white peach, some fresh pear, a little bit of white pepper, light appley tones and a herbal, pilsner-like hint of noble hops. The wine feels crisp, dry and lively on the palate with a medium body and quite linear flavors of stony minerality, some ripe yellow apple tones, a little bit of hay, light steely notes, a pilsner-like hint of herby character and a touch of fresh pear. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp and lively with a moderately long, acid-driven aftertaste of ripe Granny Smith apple, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy white currant, light sweeter notes of ripe white peach and a hint of tangy salinity.
An enjoyable and refreshing but also quite linear and somewhat uninteresting Grüner Veltliner. At least the overall feel here was more balanced and enjoyable than in the 2017 vintage, which had even somewhat unattractive aromas in the nose. However, both these wines had these odd, somewhat herbal and even slightly hoppy aromas that feel quite out of place in Grüner Veltliner and would feel more appropriate in wines made from, say, Roussanne or Marsanne. This might be a nice, refreshing white on a hot summer's day, but not really anything worth seeking out. Feels expensive for the quality at 16,50€.
(84 points) -
2017 Loimer Grüner Veltliner Lois - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (19.11.2022)
Made with 100% organically farmed Grüner Veltliner. 11,5% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar and 5,2 g/l acidity.
Quite youthful, moderately pale yellow-green color. The nose feels fresh and fruity with bright aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some cantaloupe, a little bit of hay, light stony mineral notes, a hint of beeswax and a touch of something smoky. The wine is dry, firm and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a medium body and fresh, rather acid-driven flavors of sweet white fruits, some saline tang, a little bit of crunchy green currant, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of hay and a touch of something waxy. The moderately high acidity makes the wine feel balanced and lends it nice sense of freshness. The finish is dry and fresh with a moderately long aftertaste of stony minerality, some fresh apple tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light zesty notes of citrus fruits and a sweeter hint of ripe cantaloupe.
A nice, fresh and balanced but also a bit linear Grüner Veltliner. Age seems to have benefited the wine, as it shows a bit more depth, fruit and concentration than it did 3½ years ago, when I last tasted it. Still, this is a bit on the simple side; while further aging might grant the wine with some additional sense of weight and complexity - and there is still some room for further aging, seeing how youthful the wine still is - I doubt any amount of aging will make the wine feel particularly interesting. This is a pretty nice but also pretty one-dimensional little Grüner Veltliner that is not on par with the better Loimer wines. Feels a bit pricey for the quality at 16,24€.
(85 points) -
2015 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
The entry-level Grüner Veltliner of Rudi Pichler. The grapes are first crushed and cold-soaked with the skins for some hours. After the cold soak the wine is fermented to full dryness in stainless steel tanks. Aged on the lees for 5-7 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels quite big and concentrated yet not particularly sweet with aromas of plum pits and ripe Golden Delicious apple, some pear tones, a little bit of waxy richness, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a flinty hint of smoke and a developed touch of Sultana raisin. The wine feels rich, somewhat oily and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with intense flavors of peach, some sweet Golden Apple tones, a little bit of gummi bear, light spicy nuances of white pepper, a hint of apple jam and a touch of ripe pear. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine in balance and lends it some welcome sense of structure. The finish is juicy, fleshy and moderately long with somewhat concentrated flavors of white peach, some nectarine, a little bit of stony minerality, light waxy tones, a hint of white gummi bear and a touch of peppery spice.
A nice, balanced and surprisingly big Grüner Veltliner. I mean, really. This was a pretty great effort, but also quite noticeably ripe and rather substantial for a Federspiel. People expecting a bright, precise and lithe expression of Wachau Grüner might get surprised by the style here - at least I did! Apart from the alcohol that is "just" 12,5%, the wine pretty much Smaragd in every way possible - I guess that's 2015 for you. If this wine was so big and bold, I can't imagine how Pichler's Smaragd was this year. However, all things considered, this was still a nice and quite youthful wine that was just starting to show the very first signs of evolution. I can imagine the wine will continue to evolve and improve just fine for a good number of years more. Although not really a super stunning wine, at 14,90€ this was still a pretty great purchase.
(89 points) -
2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Reserve Steinsetz - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (19.11.2022)
100% Grüner Veltliner from Ried Steinsetz, where the vines are 20-25 years old, on average. Fermented and aged in large, 2500-liter Austrian oak casks. Bottled in the spring following the harvest. 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep yet still relatively youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, quite sweet-toned and somewhat evolved with complex aromas of honeydew melon and some wizened pear, a little bit of beeswax, light nutty notes of chopped almonds, a hint of apple jam, a touch of developed creaminess and a faint touch of peppery spice. The wine feels concentrated yet not viscous, firm and quite broad on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some fresh notes of nectarines, a little bit of stony minerality, light spicy notes of white pepper, a hint of beeswax and a touch of bruised pear. The overall feel is very structured and balanced, thanks to the impressively high acidity. The finish is rich, powerful and quite concentrated with a long, dry aftertaste of cantaloupe, some honeyed richness, a little bit of apple jam, light stony mineral notes, a hint of piquant spice and a touch of developed creamy character.
A fantastic, beautiful Grüner Veltliner that has developed exactly in the direction I had hoped it would. The wine is still wonderfully bright, fresh and structured, but the fruit has taken on some more evolved tones, developing wonderfully honeyed and nutty overtones that intermingle wonderfully with the perfectly ripe fruit flavors. This is in a quite fantastic shape right now, but I wouldn't be surprised if the wine continued to evolve and improve for years more. At just 14,79€, this has been a steal.
(95 points) -
2007 Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Steinhaus - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (19.11.2022)
12,5% alcohol.
Quite intense lemon-yellow color with faint lime-green highlights. Somewhat evolved and pretty attractive nose with quite complex and quite rich aromas of honeycomb, some developed waxy tones, light juicy notes of ripe nectarine, a little bit of poached pear, a hint of something sweet and gaseous and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The wine feels dry, somewhat reticent and a bit thin on the palate with a medium body and relatively youthful but also quite light flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple and rather pronounced stony minerality, some beeswax, a little bit of toasty brioche, light nutty notes of almond, a sweeter hint of white peach and a developed touch of creaminess. The acidity feels pretty high, but it seems to be just keeping the wine fresh and balance without bringing the wine any obvious firmness or structure - it's quite odd to have a wine that seems to be quite high in acidity yet somehow not that much after all. The finish is dry, quite long and slightly evolved with layered flavors of ripe citrus fruits and white peach, some poached pear, light waxy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, an evolved hint of creaminess and a touch of herby spice.
Although showing some developed qualities, this wine was still remarkably youthful for its age - most likely due to the screwcap closure that had kept the wine much more youthful than the other wines at this age. This bottle seemed to be slightly more restrained and thus also a bit thinner in body compared to the bottle I tasted 1½ years ago, but otherwise pretty similar in quality. Although not super young anymore, I feel there is still some room for further development here. A pleasant and quite mineral-driven example of Grüner Veltliner that is in a lovely spot right now. Excellent value at just 12€.
(91 points) -
2016 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Reserve Käferberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (19.11.2022)
Made with old-vine fruit harvested from Ried Käferberg on 31st of October, 2016. Fermented spontaneously, aged for a short period in used (2 and 3 years old) 300-liter demi-muids, after which the wine was moved into old, large (2500 liters) oak foudres. Bottled in August 2017. 13,5% alcohol and 7,5 g/l acidity.
Pale burnished golden color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels complex, characterful and ridiculously intense with bold aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple and perfumed summer meadow flowers, some poached pear tones, a little bit of beeswax, light spicy nuances of nutty wood, a hint of creaminess and a touch of cantaloupe. The wine is dry, firm and mineral on the palate with a quite dense medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe white peach, steely minerality, some zesty citrus fruit notes, a little bit of sweet Golden Delicious apple, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of savory spices and a touch of poached pear. The racy acidity lends great intensity, energy and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, powerful and quite concentrated with intense, persistent flavors of fresh yellow apple and zesty citrus fruits, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax, light crunchy nuances of white currants, a hint of creaminess and a touch of vague savory spices.
A very impressively focused, concentrated and immensely structured Grüner Veltliner that is simply packed with fruit, power and structure. The complexity here is quite exceptional and the wine is simply bursting with aging potential. In our tasting of Grüner Veltliners, I'd say I preferred the 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg GV Steinsetz over this one, but mainly because the Gobelsburg wine showed more depth and aged complexity, whereas this Bründlmayer came across as much more youthful in nature and thus a bit awkward as well. However, seeing how this wine was packing both more concentration and freshness, I have a hunch this wine will surpass that Gobelsburg wine as it ages. An outstanding example of single-vineyard Reserve Grüner Veltliner. Priced according to its quality at 40€.
(94 points) -
2015 Freie Weingärtner Wachau / Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnstein - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
Made with mainly organically farmed grapes sourced from co-op farmers farming vineyards in and around the village of Dürnstein. Fermented and aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks. 13% alcohol.
Pale lemon-yellow color with a faint greenish hue. Young, almost primary and even a tiny bit candied nose with aromas of white peach, some pear, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light herby green notes, sweet hints of ripe cantaloupe and yellow damson, a touch of banana marshmallow and an almost Riesling-like whiff of diesel or petrol. The wine feels juicy and slightly concentrated but also enjoyably fresh and airy for a Smaragd with a medium body and dry flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some white peach, light fragrant notes of aromatic herbs, a little bit of sweet, exotic fruit, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of peppery spice. The rather high acidity lends enough balance and sense of structure to the wine. The moderately long finish is ripe yet fresh, dry and lively with quite intense flavors of ripe white peach, some pear, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light stony mineral notes, a zesty hint of crunchy citrus fruits and a touch of spice.
A very balanced and still remarkably youthful Smaragd Grüner Veltliner that curiously felt lighter and more focused than 2015 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel, showing more freshness and acidity. This really showcases how the Wachau category of measuring the wine quality only by alc% is getting outdated. In these warm vintages it is possible to make big, ripe and concentrated Federspiels that might be lower in alcohol yet show more ripeness, weight and fruit than leaner, more acid-driven Smaragds that emphasize acidity and minerality over ripeness. I enjoyed this bright, harmonious and acid-driven Smaragd more than that concentrated and fruity 2015 Pichler Federspiel. Seeing how remarkably youthful - almost backward - this wine was at 7 years of age, I can see this aging wonderfully for many, many years more. An excellent purchase at 14,95€.
(91 points) -
2013 Weingut Josef Jamek Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Quite pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels rather ripe and slightly evolved with complex, somewhat sweet-toned aromas of sweet apricot-driven stone fruits, some bruised pear notes, a little bit of crunchy quince, light honeyed nuances, a hint of sweet grapey fruit, a touch of pineapple and a whiff of dried peach. The wine feels quite ripe, rather concentrated and slightly oily on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and very intense flavors of ripe tangerine, some extracted waxy character, a little bit of quince jam, light evolved notes of bruised pear and dried apricots, a hint of apple jam and a touch of cloudberries. The overall feel is big yet not really heavy - the wine is surprisingly light on its feet, at least for its size. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The quite complex finish is dry, juicy and slightly oily with a ripe, subtly sweet-toned aftertaste of apricots, some bruised pear, a little bit of acacia honey, light stony mineral notes, a hint of quince jam and a touch of ripe cloudberries.
This was a rather big and quite concentrated yet still remarkably balanced Smaragd Grüner Veltliner that never once came across as too big or heavy despite its size. It is starting to show some developed qualities, emphasizing some sweeter dried-fruit qualities and honeyed tones over the more youthful characteristics, but the wine doesn't feel particularly evolved yet. Maybe it is getting middle-aged now? At least it feels like there is still lots of room for further development - even if the wine is pretty impressive and thoroughly enjoyable already now. A great example of the classic 2013 vintage. This was a good purchase at 18,70€.
(92 points) -
2001 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kreutles Loibner - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
A Grüner Veltliner from Ried Kreutles, a vineyard in Loiben. Crushed and macerated with the skins, followed by spontaneous fermentation. Aged on the lees in old, large Austrian oak casks. 13% alcohol.
Quite deep burnished golden yellow color with a pale bronze core. The nose feels rich, evolved and quite intense with complex aromas of sweet, toasty notes of caramel and roasted nuts, some wizened peach, a little bit of honeyed richness, light floral nuances, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of beeswax. The wine is powerful, concentrated and moderately evolved on the palate with a full body, slightly viscous mouthfeel and bold, complex flavors of spicy red apple and wizened peach, some evolved nutty tones, a little bit of honeydew melon, light stony mineral nuances, a hint of roasted spices and a touch of caramel. The wonderfully high acidity keeps the big body of the wine in check while granting the wine great sense of energy and structure. The finish is rich yet firm and focused with a long, complex aftertaste of almond-driven nuttiness, ripe red apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of acacia honey, light toasty notes of caramel and roasted spices, an evolved hint of dried stone fruits and a touch of beeswax.
A substantial yet remarkably balanced and structure-driven Smaragd Grüner Veltliner that feels big and powerful, yet not heavy or ponderous. Exceptional sense of depth, complexity and harmony here. It's hard to say whether the wine is now at its peak or if it is capable of evolving even further from here, but at least it doesn't feel like the wine is going to go downhill anytime soon. Superb stuff - immensely enjoyable and drinkable for such a big, ripe wine and one of the best Grüner Veltliners I've had in a while. An excellent purchase at 33€.
(95 points) -
2000 Freie Weingärtner Wachau / Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Exceptional Reserve - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
A very befitting name: this is a halbtrocken late-harvest Grüner Veltliner that was harvested on 12th of November, 2000, picked at 23,5°KMW (277 g/l sugar in must weight, ie. 17,3% potential alcohol). The wine was fermented until semi-dry, finishing at 15% alcohol and 10 g/l residual sugar.
Intense amber to medium-deep bronze color. The nose feels big, sweet and quite aged with bold aromas of Sultana raisins and dried dates, some malty notes of barley wine, light oxidative notes of caramel and molasses, a little bit of oats-and-honey, a hint of tinned peaches and a touch of apple jam. Already judging by the nose, this seems to be pretty heavy stuff. The wine is big, concentrated and rather fat with a VERY full body and evolved, very substantial off-dry flavors of Sultana raisins, some oxidative notes of chopped nuts and barley wine, a little bit of honeyed richness, light boozy notes of alcohol, a hint of dried dates and a touch of honey roasted oats. The mouthfeel is quite viscous and even a bit chewy, but the moderately high acidity lends some sense of structure and balance to the wine, even if it is not adequate to lend any freshness to it. The finish is big, fat and somewhat sweetish with long and very powerful flavors of Sultana raisins and dried peaches, some ripe notes of apricots, a little bit of chopped almonds, light malty nuances of barley wine, a hint of extracted bitterness, and a touch of spicy wildhoney.
A humongous monster of a wine. Basically this is a white wine version of a Riserva Amarone. For such, this is a surprisingly balanced and well-made wine - but still I'd treat this more like an academic curiosity rather than a nice, drinkable wine. The overall feel is getting somewhat oxidative, and while the wine isn't too tired yet, I think it's better to drink sooner rather than later - I doubt there is any upside to aging this wine any further. It was very interesting to taste this kind of very Exceptional wine, but I doubt it won any hearts over. I guess the wine was priced according to its quality at 28€ - I doubt it is quite hard to find a monster white wine like this at any lower prices. Not that there was much demand for such those wine!
(89 points) -
1998 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wösendorfer Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
14,5% alcohol.
Still surprisingly appearance youthful for its age with a somewhat concentrated neon yellow-green color. The nose feels pretty concentrated and somewhat developed yet not particularly aged with bold, layered aromas of lemon marmalade, some evolved creamy tones, a little bit of apple jam, light honeyed notes, sweet hints of white peach and poached pear, a nutty touch of chopped almonds and a whiff of savory spices. The wine feels complex, quite fresh and surprisingly youthful for its age on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and dry yet slightly sweet-toned, concentrated flavors of honeydew melon, some bruised golden apples, a little bit of apricot jam, light spicy notes, sweeter hints of dried stone fruits and a touch of beeswax. The wine has some noticeable sense of weight and the mouthfeel is a bit oily, but the rather high acidity still manages to keep the wine quite effortlessly in balance, lending the wine some vital sense of freshness as well. The finish is concentrated, quite powerful and very lengthy with somewhat developed, slightly sweet-toned flavors of peach, some apple jam, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of almondy nuttiness, a hint of beeswax and a touch of poached pear.
A very big, impressive and wonderfully evolved powerhouse of a Grüner Veltliner that is surprisingly youthful for its age, even at 24 years of age. The wine shows some age and it doesn't come across as particularly young, but much younger than many other Grüner Veltliners we tasted at the same event with less than half the age of this wine. Although a quite substantial wine, this never came across as too heavy or ponderous - just pretty impressive with its noticeably concentrated overall feel. Most likely the wine is not only going to just keep, but actually develop even further from here with additional bottle age. Great stuff, highly recommended. Priced according to its quality at 39€.
(93 points) -
2019 Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltliner Weitenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (19.11.2022)
100% organically farmed Grüner Veltliner from Ried Weitenberg located in Weissenkirch, Wachau. The fruit is picked when it reaches suitable physiological ripeness when the varietal characteristics have developed fully but the pH still remains low and levels of acidity are high. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels very youthful, fragrant and borderline primary with vibrant, fruit-driven aromas of pear and Golden Delicious apple, some floral notes of apple blossom, a little bit of hay, light spicy notes of white pepper and a hint of caraway seeds. The wine is youthful, juicy and quite ripe with a medium body and intense flavors of white peach, some red apple tons, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light zesty notes of orange and a hint of hay. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and freshness to the wine. The finish is rich, juicy and slightly sweet-toned with a youthful, rather lengthy aftertaste of apricots, some apple jam, light honeyed notes, a little bit of hay, a hint of wizened pear and a touch of stony minerality.
A juicy, ripe and youthful Grüner Veltliner that is still in a very primary, fruit-driven phase. The wine does pack some ripeness, but it is not without freshness or sense of balance. I loved the sense of intensity and vibrancy here, but the overall feel is still a bit youthful and it is hard to get a full picture of the wine. However, I have no doubts this wine will evolve into something quite impressive in due time. There's no need to pop any bottles now - just let this baby sleep and concentrate on other, less age-able wines while it ages.
(90 points) -
2018 Inama Soave Classico Vigneti di Foscarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico (19.11.2022)
Macerated with the skins for 8-12 hours. Fermented and aged for 6 months in old, neutral oak barriques. Blended in and aged for another 6 months in stainless steel. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale straw yellow color. Sweet-toned, expressive nose of marzipan and apricot, some bitter almond oil tones, a little bit of apple jam, light floral nuances, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of ripe cloudberries. The wine feels fresh, open and youthful on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body, a slightly viscous, oily mouthfeel and bold flavors of apricot and chopped almonds, some apple sauce, a little bit of crunchy cloudberry, light stony mineral notes, a hint of white peach and a sweet hint of yellow damson jam. The rather high acidity keeps the wine in balance and quite structured. The finish is juicy, nuanced and slightly on the ripe side with rather lengthy flavors of apricots and mirabelle plums, some apple sauce, a little bit of stony minerality, light crunchy notes of cloudberries, a hint of yellow damson jam and a touch of creaminess suggesting oak aging.
A nuanced, quite ripe yet still wonderfully balanced Soave Classico with a lot of vibrant fruit and enough structure to balance it all up. This feels somewhat fruitier and also somewhat more true to the region than the 2015 that was surprisingly un-fruity in character and - based on many notes in CT - evolving at a much faster pace than anticipated. This vintage doesn't seem to be evolving prematurely, but instead just as planned, seeing how still surprisingly youthful and at times borderline primary the wine felt at four years of age. Great stuff that is drinking wonderfully right now, but will also continue to age for a handful of years more. Good, enjoyable stuff.
(92 points) -
1994 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.11.2022)
A blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano (3%) and Mazuelo (2%). Aged for 6 years in American oak barrels (from June 1995 to June 2001). 12,8% alcohol, 6,65 g/l acidity and 0,98 g/l VA. Tasted blind.
Aged, somewhat tertiary plummy-red color. The nose feels aged yet not old, but still somewhat dull and dusty with aromas pickle and decomposing old wood, some dill, a little bit of dusty attic, light minty green notes, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of dried figs. The wine is dry, somewhat lean and quite understated on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body with reticent flavors of sour cherries, some dusty earth, a little bit of tart cranberry, light leathery notes and a hint of savory old wood. The wine is quite noticeably high in acidity with ample, rather grippy tannins. The finish is quite tough and grippy with a light, medium-long aftertaste of tart cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of old leather and a hint of dusty earth.
People quite quickly guessed Rioja, but were surprised to learn this was 1994 LRA 890. As many people who had tasted the wine before (me included) said the wine seemed much lighter and reticent compared to any bottles tasted previously, we came to the conclusion that this might've been a very slightly corked bottle - there were no obvious TCA aromatics, but the rather muted fruit flavors and slightly dusty overall feel suggested that this wine was not performing at the level it should've. The other chance was that this wine is already fading and the fruit flavors have started to depart, leaving some dusty tertiary notes behind, yet the wine was not old enough to show any obviously oxidized qualities. Whatever the case, the wine didn't seem to be up to par, which is why I'm refraining from giving it a rating. -
2010 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve - Chile, Aconcagua Valley (19.11.2022)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Carménère (10%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Syrah (5%). Aged for 22 months in French oak barriques (81% new). 14% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar and 5,6 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Dense and quite opaque blackish-red color with a still relatively youthful purplish hue. The nose feels dense, concentrated and rather ripe with intense, sweet-toned aromas of juicy blackcurrants and soft black cherries, some minty green notes, a little bit of ripe red plum, light toasty oak tones, a chocolatey hint of dark-toned mocha oak spice and a herbaceous touch of leafy Cab / Carménère character. The wine feels juicy, ripe and quite powerful on the palate with a full body and opulent flavors of ripe blackcurrants, sweet black cherries, some extracted woody bitterness, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, light plummy tones, a hint of cedar and a herbaceous touch of leafy greenness. Despite its rather massive body, the wine retains surprisingly good sense of structure with its quite high acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, sweet-toned and moderately tannic with a very long aftertaste of juicy cassis and cedary oak, some soft black cherry tones, a little bit of toasty mocha character, light minty green notes, a crunchy hint of tart crowberry and a touch of plummy dark fruit.
With its noticeable ripeness, rather overt Cabernet characteristics and quite liberal use of new oak, virtually everybody guessed Napa Cab first - and a quite recent vintage at that. The next guesses were several other California AVAs. When told the wine didn't come from the US, people started guessing modern Bordeaux and Australia. Although Chile didn't come as a big surprise when the wine was finally revealed, the wine name and the vintage did surprise me a little: this wine has been always quite a gargantuan beast when I've tasted it, always lacking in acidity, making the wine feel too sweet and flabby, lacking in energy. However, this 2010 vintage seemed to have much more acidity than the other, older vintages I've tasted - and it was surprisingly youthful for its age, coming across as not unlike a very recent bottling; nobody guessed anything older than 10 years at any point! While this wine was easily the best Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve I've tasted thus far (or any Errazuriz red for that matter), I must admit that it is still too ripe, big and oaky for my taste. However, seeing how the wine is both still relatively youthful and evolving in the right direction, it is certainly possible that with enough aging the wine might drop its baby fat and the obvious oak tones could integrate with the powerful, vibrant fruit. But at 86,48€ the wine is priced so that I most certainly ain't going to buy any bottles to see how it evolve.
(88 points) -
1996 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (19.11.2022)
The "2nd wine" of Château Margaux. Historically this wine was made from grapes that were not used to make the grand vin, but today the wine sees quite as strict selection of fruit as the grand vin itself - the fruit not used for Château Margaux or Pavillon Rouge are used for the 3rd wine or just sold off. The blend follows the percentage of planted vines quite closely, typically being mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (65% to 75% of the blend), the remainder being Merlot (20% to 30%), Petit Verdot (3-5%) and Cabernet Franc (2-3%). 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and slightly translucent cherry-red color with a developed maroon hue. The nose feels somewhat evolved and very harmonious with somewhat tertiary aromas of ripe dark fruits, some sweeter notes of prunes, a little bit of game, light old leathery tones, an autumnal hint of dried leaves and a touch of cassis. The wine is evolved and somewhat tertiary yet not too old on the palate with a dense and even somewhat chewy medium body and savory flavors of wizened red plums, some old leathery notes, a little bit of game and pouch tobacco, light crunchy notes of tart cranberries, a hint of gravelly minerality and a sweeter touch of prunes and dried blackcurrants. The wine retains quite an impressive structure with its high acidity and still quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite tannic with evolved, moderately tertiary flavors of tart cranberries and ripe red plums, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of old leather, light earthy tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of old wood spice.
A savory and somewhat tertiary Margaux at full maturity. With our guesses we homed in Bordeaux quite quickly, but not immediately - so in that sense age might have muddled some of the sense of place from this wine. However, it is still fully enjoyable with its good sense of structure, impressive intensity and great complexity. I really see no benefit in further aging as the tannins are most likely going to outlast the fruit; aging the wine some more might help in resolving those still quite tough and assertive tannins, but I doubt the fruit is going to go anywhere from here but down. Terrific stuff right now. No need to let the wine breathe more than how long it takes to decant it carefully off the deposit, but pairing it with something that can soften those tannins is recommended.
(92 points) -
1995 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (19.11.2022)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (typically 40 to 80% new). 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, rather opaque and relatively youthful blackish-red color. The nose feels vibrant, complex and quite youthful with bold, rather fruit-driven aromas of ripe dark fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of wizened dark berries, light juicy cassis tones, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of plummy red fruit and a whiff of inky character. The wine feels dense and quite sinewy yet still surprisingly airy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense, quite youthful flavors of fresh blackcurrants and slightly wizened dark fruits, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of leathery character, light notes of pipe tobacco, a hint of earth and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine still retains its impressive sense of structure with its high acidity and still quite assertive, moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dense, powerful and quite grippy with a long, savory aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and some wizened red plums, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light earthy notes, a hint of old leather and a touch of tobacco.
This wine was identified as a Left-Bank Bordeaux quite immediately, but for a wine much younger than it actually was - I guess the oldest guess was 2000, but also vintages like 2010, 2008 and 2005 were suggested. I was pretty much floored to learn the wine was 1995 - especially when the bottle we tasted earlier this year seemed to be already gliding downhill. This wine was not only fully alive, but also remarkably youthful for its age, showing quite a bit of room for further development with its still rather unresolved tannins and vibrant, concentrated fruit. The wine shows great harmony between its quite intense and bold fruit and its relatively delicate body - true to the old-school style of Bordeaux, this isn't a big and weighty bruiser, but instead surprisingly light on its feet. Despite its relative lightness the wine is definitely not lacking one bit in intensity, concentration or structure. All in all, this was a fantastic example of '95 Saint-Julien that was drinking remarkably well now, but still showing a little bit of aging potential. Not affordable at 150€, but I'd argue this bottle managed to offer bang for the buck.
(95 points) -
2017 Tenuta del Travale Eleuteria Calabria IGT - Italy, Calabria, Calabria IGT (19.11.2022)
100% Nerello Mascalese from Rovito, Calabria. Bottled unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent blackish cherry-red color. The nose feels sweet and slightly evolved with aromas of wizened black cherries, some tomato purée, a little bit of ripe dark berries, light meaty nuances and a hint of pipe tobacco. The wine feels ripe, juicy and moderately full-bodied on the palate with vibrant flavors of dark forest fruits, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of leather and tobacco, light meaty notes of umami, a sweeter hint of ripe strawberry and a touch of tomato purée. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and lengthy with flavors of fresh red cherries and ripe strawberries, some juicy red plums, a little bit of tobacco and earth, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of smoke and a touch of tomato purée. The tannins make the wine end on a moderately grippy note.
Quite quickly our guesses went to Etna, but to our surprise the wine wasn't Etna Rosso - we were still very close, however, as the wine turned out to be a Nerello Mascalese from the nearby Calabria. Stylistically the wine is remarkably similar to a proper Etna Rosso by all accounts, although the mineral qualities of a classic Etna might be ever-so-slightly toned down here. The appearance and nose suggested the wine was a bit older and more evolved than it turned out to be on the palate - the taste here suggested the wine wasn't young nor particularly old or evolved. Good stuff with still some room for further evolution. Priced according to its quality at 30€.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
And trying to sell the trip to my SO by saying the hotel there has some good wines on the list probably isn’t going to do the trick!
