This was a blind tasting I arranged with the theme “Germany!” - all that the attendees knew was that there were just German wines in the tasting, that’s it. Nothing else was revealed. So, in short: a purposefully very random selection of German wines from my cellar.
Unsurprisingly, the Rieslings were easy. The others were not - people still managed to identify the Enderle & Moll bottle as a Pinot Noir, but the sturdier and more tannic expression of Thörle Spätburgunder did confuse some. Also that one Lemberger was not an easy piece, either.
We also had a few extra blind reds - I brought that Monastrell you can see in the lineup picture, but we also had a few Piedmontese reds that didn’t make it to the photo sessions.
- 2016 Reichsrat Von Buhl Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Hofstück Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Pfalz (3.8.2024)
13% alcohol.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels pretty classically styled with fragrant aromas of lemon marmalade, some floral tones, a little bit of peachy stone fruit, light honeyed nuances, a hint of mineral spice and a touch of fresh red apple. The wine feels dry, airy and somewhat stony on the palate with a medium body and relatively youthful flavors of peachy stone fruit and steely mineral notes, some fresh Fuji apple tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light saline nuances, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of honey. The wine doesn't seem particularly high in acidity for a Riesling, but the overall feel is still somewhat lean and tightly-knit - perhaps due to rather mineral overall feel? The palate-cleansing finish is dry, lively and mineral with a rather long, crisp and lively aftertaste of fresh red apple, some cantaloupe, light lemony citrus notes, a little bit of wet rocks and mineral spice, a hint of apple blossom and a touch of almost unripe peach.
A tasty but perhaps a little bit uninteresting Riesling that shows good sense of balance, but yet comes across as somewhat modest in acidity. Well, not modest; the acidity here is pretty high - it just feels somewhat lower you'd expect from a wine like this. Especially as it is otherwise quite refreshing and mineral. I don't know. This is harmonious yet harmless. I wanted to like this wine more - maybe it is still too young and grumpy, capable of evolving into something more interesting with further aging? At 32€ the wine was priced somewhat according to its quality.
(89 points) - 2010 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Grosse Lage - Germany, Rheingau (3.8.2024)
100% Riesling from Grosse Lage Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen. 11% alcohol. AP number -032 11.
Pale-to-medium deep amber color. The nose feels evolved, complex and somewhat oxidative yet attractive with aromas of orange marmalade, some overripe pineapple, light apricot tones, a little bit of apple sauce, a hint of roasted exotic spices and a touch of caramel. The wine feels evolved, oily and complex on the palate with a moderately full body and off-dry flavors of caramel, some orange marmalade, light mineral notes of chalky bitterness and incisive steely character so typical of Rheingau, a little bit of apple jam, a hint of overripe pineapple and a touch of tangerine. The high acidity helps to keep the wine in balance, offsetting the subtle sweetness and the slightly viscous texture. The finish is firm, evolved and persistent with a long, complex aftertaste of ripe orange, some overripe pineapple, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of roasted exotic spices, a hint of apple jam and a touch of tangy salinity.
At first I thought the wine was completely dead: the appearance was very worrisome to begin with, and the wine seemed rather tired and oxidative with the first sniff and sip. However, I didn't abandon all my hopes immediately, but left the wine to its own devices for a little bit. When I returned to the wine a little bit later on, it had fleshed out substantially, coming across as evolved, yet not the least bit tired or too oxidative. I wonder if the dark color, the subtle off-dry sweetness and the rich, marmaladey and orange-y flavors and aromatics were due to some botrytis presence? Anyways, the wine was definitely quite unique in the context of Rheingau Riesling, but after the first shock it turned out to be very enjoyable and memorable. It may be quite a bit more evolved than one might expect from a 2010 Riesling, but a remarkable powerhouse of a wine all the same. Priced according to its quality at 35€.
(92 points) - 2010 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese ** trocken Alte Reben - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3.8.2024)
12,5% alcohol, 8 g/l residual sugar, 8,4 g/l acidity. AP number -16 11.
Pale golden yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels waxy and moderately aged with aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some mineral notes of stone dust, a little bit of woolly lanolin, light bruised apple tones, a hint of old wood and a touch of sea buckthorn. The wine feels noticeably mineral but also surprisingly austere and understated on the palate with a medium body and incisive flavors of wet rocks and pithy grapefruit bitterness, some woolly tones, a little bit of sweet Golden Delicious apple, light tangy saline nuances, a hint of beeswax and a touch of savory spice. Quite racy and structured acidity. The finish is rather long, austere and mineral with flavors of beeswax, some woolly tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light bruised Granny Smith apple tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of pithy grapefruit.
A somewhat matured yet not old Riesling that feels surprisingly lean, austere and bitter for a Mosel. Then again, the style didn't come as a real surprise, as the wine was rather similarly styled when I tasted it for the first time some 6 years ago - I just hoped the wine was in a slump back then and it would unfurl and become more expressive and approachable with age. Well, it turns out that the wine wasn't in a slump after all - this is just a very mineral wine with very little in the way of fruit. I actually feel that what little fruit there was six years ago has diminished even further with additional aging. This wasn't a bad wine per se, but not really what you might expect when opening a dry Mosel Riesling. However, I guess the wine was priced according to its quality at just 9€.
(88 points) - 2021 Wasenhaus Weissburgunder - Germany, Baden (3.8.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Blanc. Fermented spontaneously in oak, aged on the lees in old oak barrels for a year, then blended together and aged for another 6 months in stainless steel tanks. 12% alcohol. Lot number L/218.
Quite pale yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and quite fresh with rather sweetish aromas of white peach and cantaloupe, some crunchy nectarine notes, a little bit of beeswax, light leesy tones, a hint of apple sauce and a faint volatile touch of nail polish. The wine feels dry, lively and somewhat leesy on the palate with a lightish-to-medium body and flavors of fresh white fruits, some saline notes, a little bit of crunchy yellow apple, light herby tones, mineral hints of chalk dust and wet rocks and a touch of waxy funk. The wine doesn't feel particularly ripe, nor under-ripe in any way. The high acidity lends good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is fresh and lively with a dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and tangy salinity, some leesy tones, a little bit of crunchy yellow apple, light stony mineral notes, a juicy hint of nectarine and a touch of waxy funk.
A youthful, fresh and somewhat leesy Pinot Blanc. Enjoyably bright and high in acidity for the variety, and the high acidity does lend not only good sense of freshness, but also some nice intensity to the flavors. Nevertheless, the overall feel is still a bit on the linear side - a tiniest bit of more ripeness would add some welcome substance and depth to the wine without really contributing its wonderful sense of freshness. Furthermore, I was positively surprised how clean and un-funky the wine was, considering how it is from the rather naturalist end of the spectrum. A textbook example why a tiniest bit of SO2 additions is often better than complete SO2 abstinence. While a fun and enjoyable wine, I think it is a bit on the pricey side at 41,33€.
(92 points) - 2016 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Liaison - Germany, Baden (3.8.2024)
Made with fruit sourced from 45-50 yo vineyards. Foot-stomped grapes, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, no added SO2, aged for a year in old, neutral barriques. 12,5% alcohol.
Translucent, somewhat evolved and rather pale pomegranate color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels fragrant and somewhat wild with aromas of brambly raspberries and beetroot, some tart lingonberry, a little bit of burnt hair, light sauvage notes of leathery funk and phenolic spice, a hint of pomegranate juice and a lifted touch of Seville orange rind. The wine feels lively, crunchy and subtly wild yet still surprisingly clean on the palate with fresh flavors of pomegranate, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light tart lingonberry notes, a hint of burnt hair and a touch of acetic tang. The overall feel is slightly sauvage, but not natty. The high acidity and medium tannins make the wine feel enjoyably firm and balanced. The finish is long, crunchy and gently grippy with a slightly wild aftertaste of ripe cranberries, some leathery funk, a little bit of pomegranate juice, light smoky notes of burnt hair, a hint of phenolic spice and a touch of acetic VA.
I was expecting the wine to be getting pretty old and tired already, but this turned out to be still surprisingly fresh and youthful for its age. The wine isn't young anymore, but definitely not particularly aged, either. Furthermore, some Enderle & Moll wines I've tasted have been a bit too wild or natty at times, but this was surprisingly fresh, balanced and clean! Sure, there was a little bit of phenolic funk and a tiny bit of tangy acetic character, but those elements still didn't manage to make the wine any less enjoyable! Fun stuff, solid value at 22€.
(90 points) - 2013 Weingut Heid Fellbacher Lämmler Lemberger Großes Gewächs - Germany, Württemberg (3.8.2024)
100% organically farmed Blaufränkisch from Fellbacher Lämmler Grosse Lage. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for weeks. First aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks, then for another 18 months in barriques, of which some 50% were new. 13,4% alcohol.
Quite dark and rather opaque blackish-red color with a slightly evolved brick-red hue and a pale brick-orange rim. The nose feels brooding, dark-toned and still relatively youthful with aromas of sweet dark berries, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of minty greenness, light strawberry nuances, a hint of toasty mocha oak, a touch of fresh blueberry and a whiff of something vaguely resinous. The overall feel has a somewhat Cab-ish air to it. The wine feels juicy, dense and slightly polished on the palate with a rather full body and intense, relatively youthful flavors of crunchy dark plums and ripe blackcurrants, some sweet oak spice, light minty green notes, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, a hint of mulberry and a touch of sweet blueberry juice. The structure relies on both the high acidity and still surprisingly stern and grippy medium-plus tannins, making the wine come across as pretty muscular. The finish is long, dark-toned and quite tannic with an intense aftertaste of crunchy dark plums and ripe blackcurrant tones, some sweet oak spice, light minty green nuances, a little bit of tart cranberry, a toasty hint of chocolatey mocha oak and a touch of earth.
I was very surprised how relatively little age the wine showed; I had tasted this wine more 6+ years ago and back then I thought the wine was still quite burly with rather pronounced oak notes and a pretty firm and grippy tannic structure. Apparently six years had done very little to the wine, as it still came across as pretty stern and muscular with quite a bit of oak. However, just as it was with last time - the oaky tones didn't bother me that much in this wine. Unlike in most wines with this much oak, they really didn't seem to obfuscate that much fruit flavors, but they instead made the wine feel somewhat Cab-like - something that those subtly minty green nuances (I don't know where they had come from) seemed to only accentuate. This was still a rather polished but also very impressive example of GG Lemberger, and based on this bottle, the wine is still quite far away from its apogee. I'd let it wait for another 6-10 years more. This was a good buy at 25€.
(93 points) - 2016 Weingut Thörle Saulheimer Spätburgunder Kalkstein - Germany, Rheinhessen (3.8.2024)
A village-level Pinot Noir made from the grapes of 30-yo vines. Whopping 40 days of extended maceration time. Aged in oak barriques (20% new). 13% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 5,7 g/l acidity.
Pale, translucent and somewhat evolved cherry-red color. The nose feels dull, musty and tired with aromas of beef jerky, some dried dark berries, light notes of dusty earth, a hint of wizened cherries and a touch of wet cardboard. The wine feels dry, sinewy and somewhat tired on the palate with a medium body and rather dull flavors of salt-cured meat, some tobacco, light oxidative soy sauce notes, a little bit of dusty earth and a hint of dried cherries. The wine is high in acidity, with tough, grippy tannins. The finish is short, tough and grippy with a dry aftertaste of earth, tobacco and vague dried fruit tones.
It seems this wine was both slightly corked and somewhat oxidized. Double whammy. 18,40€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) - 2014 Weingut Thörle Saulheimer Spätburgunder Kalkstein - Germany, Rheinhessen (3.8.2024)
A village-level Pinot Noir made from the grapes of 30-yo vines. Whopping 40 days of extended maceration time. Aged in oak barriques (20% new). 13,5% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 5,6 g/l acidity.
Relatively youthful and still somewhat translucent black cherry color. The nose feels fragrant and very attractive with layered aromas of brambly black raspberries and crushed cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light floral notes of violets, a woody hint of savory old oak and a touch of licorice. The wine feels clean, crunchy and somewhat angular on the palate with a medium body and dry, intense flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some fresh blueberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light earthy tones, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is still remarkably stern and tightly-knit with the high acidity and assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is fresh, juicy and noticeably grippy with a very long and intensely flavored aftertaste of tart lingonberries and chokeberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light woody notes of old oak spice, a ferrous hint of blood and a subtly evolved touch of meaty umami.
This was a simply fantastic Spätburgunder when I tasted it for the first time more than 8 years ago. I hoped the wine would evolve, maybe unwind those tough tannins a bit, and develop some tertiary complexity with additional age. And I guess the wine will do all those things once it ages - but apparently 8 years was not nearly enough for the wine to evolve much, because this wine feels still remarkably youthful and surprisingly backward for its age. This is still a Nebbiolo-drinker's Spätburgunder, full of tart and crunchy red-toned fruits, savory non-fruit flavors and assertive, noticeably grippy tannins. A very no-nonsense Spätburgunder if there ever was one. Lovin' this, big time. At 15€ this has been a steal.
(95 points) - 2012 Weingut Thörle Saulheimer Hölle Spätburgunder Vom Kalkmergel - Germany, Rheinhessen (3.8.2024)
I don't know if this is a special bottling of Hölle or if just the label is different, but this says "Spätburgunder Vom Kalkmergel" in addition to Hölle, while all the other bottlings of Hölle I've seen say just "Hölle Spätburgunder" in the label. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, rather translucent and slightly evolved pomegranate color. The nose feels rather big, vibrant and somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of ripe bilberries and fresh black cherries, some toasty notes of sweet oak spice, a little bit of peppery spice, light juicy black raspberry notes, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of wizened red plums and a whiff of mocha. The wine feels rich, ripe and quite dark-toned on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of black cherries and tart cranberries, some peppery tones, a little bit of sweet toasty oak, light earthy nuances and a hint of tobacco. The overall feel was pretty stern and tightly-wound with the high acidity and ample, quite grippy tannins. The finish is long, powerful and rather grippy with a dark-toned aftertaste of black cherries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of ripe red plum, light peppery tones, a hint of pipe tobacco and a toasty touch of sweet oak spice.
After the 2014 Thörle Kalkstein Spätburgunder, this GG Hölle seemed quite similar, only somewhat bigger with a bit more ripeness and a somewhat polished, glossy sheen from the still relatively pronounced new oak. I was actually surprised how this wine seemed somewhat oaky now, because the bottle of this same vintage we tasted about four years ago didn't really show any obvious new oak aromatics - but it did come across as slightly evolved, whereas this bottle didn't. Very mysterious are the ways how German Pinot Noirs evolve. Anyways, this was a positively stern and impressive effort all the same. I preferred the drier, less oaky and more sinewy 2014 Kalksten Spätburgunder more, but that didn't make this wine any less impressive. Great value at 20€.
(93 points) - 2021 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb "Meyer Nepal" #11 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3.8.2024)
100% Riesling from an old (approximately 60 yo), ungrafted parcel high up in Niedermenninger Herrenberg. The AP number is 11 (helpfully bolded in the front label). The whole bunches are gently pressed and the must is fermented spontaneously to subtle residual sweetness (feinherb) in one old fuder. 8,5% alcohol.
Pale, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels sweetish but also a bit reticent with subtle, layered aromas of ripe white peach, some apple jam, light beeswax tones, a little bit of crunchy green currant, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of liquid honey. The wine feels lively, steely and intense with a medium body and off-dry to medium-sweet flavors of lemon marmalade, some ripe white peach, light beeswax tones, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, sharp hints of lemony citrus fruits and Granny Smith apple and a sweeter touch of honey. The brisk, high acidity lends a tremendous amount of energy, freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is lively, youthful and steely with a clean, intensely-flavored aftertaste of lemon marmalade, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light tart notes of key lime, a hint of beeswax and a touch of tangy salinity.
A beautiful and attractive Spätlese from the very lightweight and delicate end of the spectrum. The wine has lost the candied primary qualities and is all about fresh and vibrant Riesling fruit that sort of has the direct old-vine intensity without the sense of weight and concentration that usually come with the package. The wine manages to combine fun, playful expression of Riesling with a very elegant and even quite serious style with almost perplexing ease. This is immensely delicious already now, but I can see the wine being able to evolve and improve for a good handful of years more. Screaming value at 22,40€.
(93 points) - 2020 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett "er zappelt" #16 Schilly - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3.8.2024)
100% Riesling from old vines in the site "Schilly" located in Niedermenninger Herrenberg; in the AP number printed in the front label, number 16 is bolded, followed by the name "er zappelt". This is one of the last vintages of Schilly, as the vineyard was pulled up in 2025. The whole bunches are gently pressed and the must is fermented spontaneously in one old [i]fuder[/i] close to dryness. 11% alcohol.
Pale, almost completely colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful, crisp and lively with brisk aromas of white currants and Granny Smith apple, some smoky tone, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of rubbery reduction, a hint of herby character, a touch of key lime and a whiff of something gaseous. The wine feels crisp, fresh and quite weightless on the palate with a light body and medium-dry flavors of ripe white peach, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of sweet Fuji apple, light crunchy green currant notes, mineral hints of wet rocks and chalk dust and a touch of lemon rind. The high acidity lends a great amount of freshness and energy to the wine. The palate-cleansing finish is crisp, clean and refreshing with a long aftertaste of steely minerality, some tangy saline notes, a little bit of chalk dust, light crunchy notes of ripe Fuji apple, a hint of white peach and a touch of green currants.
A clean, crisp and palate-cleansing Kabinett from the drier and perhaps also somewhat less expressive end of the spectrum. The wine isn't bone-dry and it might actually have a higher level of residual sugar than one might think due to the pronounced acidity and mineral tones that effectively neutralize most of the sweetness from the RS. Quite delicious stuff, although the wine felt somewhat restrained and understated when tasted next to the more expressive and perhaps slightly sweeter 2021 Spätlese Meyer Nepal. Perhaps the wine will unwind and open up a bit more with additional age? Solid value at 15,40€.
(91 points) - 1994 Querbach Hallgartener Schönhell Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau (3.8.2024)
100% Riesling from Hallgartener Schönhell. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 10,5% alcohol (according to the website - the label had no mention of ABV%).
Quite intense and somewhat evolved medium-deep golden yellow color. The open nose feels fragrant and very attractive with aromas of quince jam and peppermint, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of beeswax, light evolved nuances of cooked cream, a hint of acacia honey, a touch of ripe pineapple and a sweet herby whiff of basil. The wine feels firm, lively and quite complex on the palate with a medium body and off-dry to almost medium-sweet flavors of lemon marmalade, apple jam and developed notes of cooked cream, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of incisive steely character typical of Rheingau, light bitter nuances of chalk dust, a hint of beeswax and a touch of fresh pineapple. The high acidity lends good sense of structure and intensity to the wine, and the overall feel is surprisingly youthful for the age. The finish is long, complex and quite acid-driven with a medium-dry aftertaste of honey and beeswax, some pineapple, light lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of quince jam, sweet green-toned hints of basil and peppermint and a touch of steely minerality.
A fantastic old Rheingau Spätlese that might've picked some evolved complexity over the years, yet seems to be still surprisingly youthful for its age. The wine shows remarkable freshness and intensity of fruit for one clocking in at 30 years of age - had I tasted this blind, I would've guessed the wine was less than half of its true age! This is pretty fantastic already now, but I can see the wine evolving and improving still over another decade or so. This has been an outright bargain at 18€.
(94 points) - 2022 Parajes del Valle Monastrell Jumilla Ecológico - Spain, Murcia, Jumilla (3.8.2024)
100% Monastrell from organically farmed 15-30 yo bushvines plated at the altitude of 600 to 700 m above sea level. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks. 13% alcohol.
Quite pale and translucent ruby-red color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels quite sunny yet spicy and savory with aromas of fresh strawberries and crunchy cranberries, some earth, light floral notes of violets, a little bit of ripe dark forest fruits and a hint of licorice root. The overall feel is surprisingly similar to a young-ish Cru Beaujolais. The wine feels quite ripe yet still wonderfully firm, fresh and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and bright, dry flavors of wild strawberries and brambly black raspberries, some sweeter cherry tones, a little bit of earthy and slightly bitter spice, light peppery tones, a primary hint of sweet bubblegum-y character and a touch of rubbery reduction. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, not that much on the light and gentle mediium-minus tannins. The finish is dry, slightly grippy and subtly bitter with a rather long aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and loose tobacco, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light floral nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a primary touch of strawberry bubblegum.
A wonderfully fresh, crunchy and delicate effort - not only for a Mourvèdre, but especially for a Jumilla Monastrell, a region known for big, excessively ripe and alcoholic Monastrell wines! This wine didn't share anything with a stereotypical Jumilla Monastrell, as it was light in body, dry in taste and high in acidity! To me, this wine was stylistically much closer to a typical Graciano, which are often similarly dry, crunchy and typically sport a light yet still distinct streak of bitterness. I poured the wine blind and most guesses were centered around France with guesses like Cru Beaujolais, Gamay from some other parts of France, maybe Jura? This was a very positive surprise and a bargain at just 109 SEK (9,80€).
(88 points) - 2022 Roagna Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (3.8.2024)
Made with grapes sourced from +45 yo vineyards located in Pajé and Carso Crus. Fermented spontaneously for 10 days with indigenous yeasts in large oak casks, the skins are macerated in the wine for 2 months employing the submerged cap technique. Aged for a year in neutral old oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, somewhat translucent ruby red color with a blueish hue. The nose feels sweet, very youthful and quite primary with rich aromas of blueberry pie, some marmaladey blackberries, a little bit of fresh cherries, light inky tones, a hint of earth, a touch of strawberries and a faint whiff of volatile lift. The wine feels dry, lively and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and pretty primary flavors of blueberries and raspberry jellies, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of earth, light tart notes of lingonberries, a hint of cherry marmalade and a touch of ripe blackberry. The wine is very firm and structured with its high acidity and pretty assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is dry, long and grippy with a dry aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of ripe blueberry, light primary notes of raspberry jellies and cherry marmalade, a hint of earth and a touch of lifted VA.
A firm, sinewy and impressively structured Dolcetto that is just way too young right now. This is very promising, but the flavor profile is just way too primary for my preference, dominating the taste and the aromatics with those sweet fermentation esters. The wine is just blueberry pie, raspberry jellies and cherry marmalade. I'm sure this will evolve into a fine and nuanced wine, but it will take time. Fortunately the wine is built to age, so that shouldn't pose any problems. Good stuff - you just have to be patient. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(89 points) - 2022 LaLù Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (3.8.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from younger vines in La Morra and Monforte d'Alba. Partly destemmed, partly vinified in whole clusters resulting in a little bit of carbonic maceration. Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel and concrete vats for 12 days. Aged in Austrian oak casks and concrete vats for 8 months. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Fully translucent cherry-red color with a pale, almost colorless rim. The nose feels ripe, sweetish and characterful with aromas of juicy cherries and wild strawberries, some red licorice, a little bit of earth, light funky leathery and phenolic tones, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of something smoky. The wine feels ripe, dry and slightly funky on the palate with a medium body and rather stern flavors of black raspberries, wild strawberries and licorice root, some earthy tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light sauvage notes of leathery funk and somethign vaguely animale, a lifted hint of acetic VA and a touch of tobacco. Despite the quite elevated level of ripeness, the wine comes across as relatively tough and austere. The overall feel is rather stern and structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and ample, grippy tannins. The finish is lively, crunchy and noticeably tannis with a somewhat wild aftertaste of sour cherry bitterness and tart cranberry, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of funky animale, light earthy notes, a hint of tobacco and a touch of acetic VA. With air the aftertaste seems to gradually evolve into a somewhat unclean territory, making me wonder if the wine might turn mousy with further aeration?
A very stern, serious and somewhat rustic Langhe Nebbiolo that is surprisingly structured - austere, even - for the appellation. To my understanding, the wine is made with Barolo fruit from younger vineyards, which might explain why the wine is so stern and structure-driven in style. I guess the producer doesn't want to make an easy-drinking everyday Nebbiolo, but instead bold and muscular stuff from the entry-level up - nothing wrong with that! I prefer these kinds of tough and structured wines over simple, easy-drinking Nebbiolos any day. What worries me, though, is the somewhat funky element that lingers in the background. The phenolic and vaguely leathery notes (brett, in all likelihood) suited the wine just fine, adding a nicely rustic backdrop to the direct, lean fruit department. The problem was the sharp and somewhat acetic streak of VA and the slightly unclean nuances in the aftertaste that not only distracted a bit from the pleasure, but also made me wonder if the wine will turn mousy with some aeration? I truly hope not. At the moment the wine is still quite tightly-wound and unyielding, which is why I heartily recommend letting the wine age for another 5-8 years - after all, this is not a fun little everyday Nebbiolo; this feels more Barolo than some true Barolos from lesser producers. At the moment the wine might not be that enjoyable (at least without proper food to tame down that structure), but expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(88 points)
238287">1994 Knipser Weissburgunder *** trocken - Germany, Pfalz (3.8.2024)
13,5% alcohol.
Deep, fully translucent and luminous orange marmalade color. The nose feels old, tired and oxidative with pungent aromas of malty tertiary qualities, some roasted nuts, a little bit of bruised apple, light toffee notes, a hint of orange marmalade, a touch of honey and oats and a whiff of something vaguely smoky. The wine feels dry, lean and oxidative on the palate with a medium body and quite austere flavors of bruised apple, some malty tones, a little bit of chopped walnuts, light earthy tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of honey-and-oats. The combination of high acidity and complete lack of fruit makes the wine feel rather tough and angular. The finish is crisp, sharp and oxidative with a medium-long and rather tired aftertaste of stony minerality, some chopped walnuts, a little bit of earth, light malty tones, a hint of caramel and a touch of dried peach.
Having tasted the wine for the last time exactly 5 years earlier to the date (and probably even down to the same hour), it was still a wonderfully complex and layered Pinot Blanc at its plateau of maturity back then. I estimated that the wine wouldn’t evolve any further from where it was back then, but it would stay on its plateau of maturity for a good while before it would fall apart. Well, apparently 5 years was more than “a good while”, because this was already completely oxidative and totally in pieces. Way past its peak. Fortunately this was never an expensive wine (8,20€), but this bottle wasn’t even worth that.
(NR/flawed)
Posted from CellarTracker
I really hope you do like them as well!
