After previously writing off Bordeaux, I had some pretty stellar bottles during holiday tastings over the past month that made me reconsider the region (especially with its QPR improving relative to other regions I enjoy). Picked up an assortment of bottles locally to try out based on board recommendations and my leaning towards a traditional palate.
2016 Château Cantenac Brown - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (1/10/2025)
Accidentally picked this up instead of a bottle of Brane-Cantenac. Might have been one of my better wine mistakes. And people complain to me that German wine labels are confusing ;)
Decanted and followed throughout the evening in a Spiegelau Definition Universal glass. From the start, the nose is pretty and expressive with initially more red fruit character before veering into black fruit after about half an hour of aeration. The bouquet is complex with black cherry, cassis, and boysenberry with undercurrents of graphite, cedar, and a touch of sweet tobacco leaf and vanilla. This is full-bodied with a nice concentration on the palate, but shows finesse with its satin texture, bright acidity, and refined tannins that are starting to integrate on the back end.
Not much on the palate at first other than a wall of cedar, however a couple hours in the wine becomes more harmonious. There is better precision on the nose with an additional hint of licorice and carob, and the cedar starts to fade to give glimpses of the blackberry and boysenberry flavors that were hiding on the palate. There is a good purity and ripeness of the black fruit, without richness or heft, and the wine was really hitting its stride after about 3-4 hours.
This gorgeous Margaux is nowhere near ready to drink but already showing some complexity of primary and secondary characteristics. It can be enjoyed for its youthful fruit now with a long decant, but I'm sure this will become a more interesting wine once it hits maturity.
I gave up drinking 2016 Bordeaux young. I think it is a really great vintage, but after tasting Lynch and Palmer, there was so little showing, and such grumpiness, that I decided not to touch any of the top wines for at least five years.
Interestingly, I bought 6 bottles of 2016 Marquis de Terme and the tannins were more muted than I expected and the wine seemed kind of lifeless, like I was drinking it too late. But it could be a storage issue seeing that I bought it off auction.
Or, perhaps the wine is not ready. Often a classic Bordeaux will show decently on release, albeit more primary character, then they go into a muted or closed phase while they evolve. Check out Mark’s comment above as well. Likewise, I’m generally hands off my 2016s and more the 2019s, as now it is time to let them slumber. The 2016 vintage is classic, fantastic, it’s one you would expect to shine in 15+. For example, the 2000s are just starting to hit their stride and many 2005s still need more time. That’s Bordeaux.
I have not had 2016 Cantenac Brown but I loved the 2000 so my guess is you got a very good wine. On the other hand, the 2016 Brane Cantenac is fabulous. You may still want to look for it also (and based on your note I probably should look for the 2016 Cantenac Brown).
For me, I agree that 2016s are too young, but the ones I have seem extremely promising. If I were anywhere near your age I would be buying a lot of them.
That’s the idea with trying as much as I can now. I’m also keeping my eye out on WineBid as well for older bottles of certain producers to see if I want to buy their 2016s and 2020s for long-term cellaring. I just worry about provenance, which is why I don’t mind trying to get a feel for these wines in their youth.
Seriously Brian at your age you should be buying case upon a case of these 2016’s. You will be thanking us immeasurably when you hit 50. I think 2016 is to you what 1982 was to Howard. And not just the big boys, there are so many fantastic château, classified growth, that you can still pick up for a very fair price, that will reward you really well in 10 to 15 years. Heck, many of them you can probably start drinking them in five years.
This begs the question, which Bordeaux vintages 2005-2020 are ready for business? It depends on how one prefers their claret of course, but there really aren’t any (good) vintages in that stretch I’m reaching for yet. If pressed, I’d probably opt to open a 2011 or 2014, or maybe an 06 (but I own precious few of those).
Meanwhile, many 00s, 01s, 02s and 04s are/have been drinking great.
Except for an occasional check-in, none of mine are ready to be opened, except for some 2011 Pomerols (which are gorgeous). I do think 2004, 01 and 00 are there (obviously some of the big boys from 2000 could use a bit more time).
The recent 1996s and 1995s that I have opened are prime drinking. I’ve had to backfill on these.
