I have always loved Silvaner especially with difficult pairings like Asparagus (Spargel). Over the last several years a number of emerging growers have started to treat Silvaner as seriously as Riesling and as their main grape. Two such growers are Stefan Vetter and Carsten Saalwachter. I actually discovered Stefan. I tasted with Andreas Adam in the Mosel on my way to Franken and Andreas said if you like natural wines you have to meet with Stefan Vetter. So of course I did. That first meeting (around 2015) was at his house and I believe he had just two barrels that were actually on his porch. The wines were riveting. At that time they showed a tad too much Oak because he had to buy new barrels because it was impossible to find used burgundy barrels in Franken. Despite the oak showing the wines were still stunning and my first BIG revelation with Silvaner. I immediately texted Stephen from Vom Boden and the rest is history!
Our first meeting with Carsten was a similar revelation. Carsten is a ball of energy and is EXTREMELY passionate about Silvaner. He is a serious student of Silvaner’s history and importance in Germany. I will never forget our first tasing with him. WOW! I remember saying if Coche made Silvaner it would taste like this.
With that said we tasted three Silvaners yesterday with a spring menu that was heavily influenced by ramps!
2019 Stefan Vetter Himmelstücke - The nose was initially a litte funky. Some of that natural wine cheese character but it still had a nice mineral character. On the palate this was viscous, savory, mineral and herbal. A beautiful showing that went really well with the ramps. A shocking 10% abv! The initial funk blew off quickly and this got better and better. Can’t wait to try this today. I had a 2014 in 2020 that was just stunning with six years of age. I can see this going that way as well.
2020 Carsten Saalwächter Grauer Stein - Stunning albeit a bit reductive aromatics. This was also viscous, had the perfect amount of well integrated oak. And simply mind-blowing savoriness. This is one serious wine that definitely compares favorably to some Premier Cru level Burgundies as it should for its price point of $100.
2018 Wilhemsberg Kitzinger - This was a berserkerday purchase from Tupetz wine. I have to say my curiosity was peaked as I pride myself on knowing almost everything that is going on in Germany and have been to Franken twice in the last 3 years and will be going again in a few weeks and I had never heard of this producer. This was a really nice wine, ripe for sure because of the 2018 vintage. It was also fermented in a barrel and the oak was well integrated. It also opened up with time and showed some nice complexity. I look forward to trying more wines from this producer.
Interestingly all of the wines were very similar. All three were in oak barrels, were extremely savory and viscous. They all need more time to really show what they can do. The savoriness is what I love about Silvaner. I would note that they lacked a little of the green / herbal element I love from Silvaner however I think this might come out over time as all of these wines need age.
For those familiar with the NYC USQ Famers Market, Rick is a legend and supplied many restaurants for years. Something happened and he got into a beef with the market and abruptly left several months ago. He said F it and set up, illegally on the street across from the market and sold his ramps! We bought ramps from three farmers and his were by far the best. I hope he returns!
I have been picking up silvaner at auction for nothing, it’s so good. Your weingut leipold offering was also quite interesting. What is the aging potential for silvaner? I see you note the 2018 was still quite young so seems like a long time there.
I prefer it on the younger side (3-5 years). However I don’t see any reason a well made Silvaner can’t go for 10+. I just picked up a 71 Spatlese for the hell of it. I will report back.
And yes Peter Leipold is an outstanding winemaker. I am going to a big party at his new winery in a couple of weeks.
Ah cool! What is the nature of the gässberg? I was surprised to see nothing on CT referencing this vineyard. Is this a leipold monople? I love the very interesting chalk elements.
I was wondering what happened to Rick. I bought from Lucky Dog last week and they were good but I always bought from Rick in prior years. Hopefully, I can buy from him again next year. I’m ramped out this year. I’ve made ramp sausage risotto, ramp guanciale pasta, ramp pesto pasta with a side of Italian marinade chicken, and ramp pesto sausage pizza.
I can’t claim to be an expert, but I do think it’s fair to say that a lot is going on with Silvaner, in all sorts of styles.
Today, one of my favorite Berlin wine merchants introduced me to a new Franken winemaker, and I took home a delicious bottle of 2023 Weingut Ottenbreit Hucklkätz Silvaner.
A modern wine in the natural mode, unfiltered, juicy and hazy and still smelling a bit of the elevage. BUT, also showing plenty of the tart tangy mineral herbal silvaner notes that you would expect. Juicy and incisive, a brilliant combo. Overall a very intriguing interpretation of silvaner, so I’m open to learning more about this young winemaker, who has a wide range of cuvees.
Another dose of 2023 Silvaner, via Leipold’s Keuper. Delicious juicy and friendly, although not in the same hazy unfiltered natural mode as the Ottenbreit. Instead, greater clarity, nice mineral intensity, but also easy and ready to accompany your meal/morning/afternoon/evening…
Finishing up a run of sylvaner, I enjoyed the 2022 Weltner Rödelseer Küchenmeister Sylvaner Erste Lage over two days. Much more of a classic profile than the Ottenbreit and the Leopolds. Clear salty mineral with great firm body and length, but with that herbal sylvaner tone to remind you of the grape. Very firm but never severe. Always delicious. Very impressive.
Not sure if sylvaner will break into the top ranks of grapes for the geeks to follow, but there is so much to taste and enjoy.
This is where I land with these too. Then again, I have never really tried to lay any down. They just seem to go. Oldest I have right now is a 2019 which is more an aberration to still be there.
Keller 2023 Grüner Silvaner. This was an electric bottle to say the least. Lots of nerve and a near mineral bomb. Slate, Lime, Granny Smith Apple, wisp of reduction. A little wearing on the palate for me at this point, as in the edges feel a bit jarring and brittle. I could see this showing a bit more relief with another year in the cellar though I don’t see a super long window for this wine. Unique for sure though.
I bought a case of the 18 Keller Gruner Silvaner trocken in 2020 and have been really enjoying working my way through it.
From 2020-2022 they were pretty precise and tense but around 2023 they started to flesh out and have continued to build body without losing their freshness. I keep thinking that they must be approaching their peak, but each bottle seems better than the last.
I’m down to the last one now so may never know when these fall off but I imagine it’s better to drink them too early than too late.
