We import the wines of Albert Seltz from Mittelbergheim. Albert loves Sylvaner and fought for years so that it could have Grand Cru status when grown on the right patches of dirt in Alsace. He makes a few stunning examples.
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Carsten Saalwächter - Silvaner Alte Reben 2023 - 12% Vol.
When I first tasted this wine last year, I found it intriguing but still quite âunfinishedâ. Back then it was dominated by notes of apple cider and yeast. Over the past few days I have revisited it and this time I was truly impressed. There is a touch of reduction, mirabelle and apple fruit, but nothing loud about it, red fruits (red apple) and even cherry, herbal notes and green fruit like gooseberry, all adding up to very good complexity. The acidity provides good structure without any sharp or biting edge. It is not excessively long and does not have a big body, but it offers remarkable complexity. Tasted blind, I initially hesitated between Chardonnay and a more mature Riesling from a warmer region, such as the Wachau, or a warm German vintage like 2018. With a bit of thought (and the help of a friend) we identified it as Silvaner. At the (German) price of then around 17 euros, it is an absolute must-buy. Brilliant!
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Lucky duck! Albertâs wines, I guess now his and his sonâs, are fantastic.
We donât get them in the US anymore.