Let’s start mid-story with this:
1965 Charles Krug Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
I had the wonderful pleasure of enjoying another bottle just several days ago at a birthday celebration with my close friends. These two bottles were sourced from the same place and were just in impeccable condition. Fill still into the next, granted right at the bottom. This second bottle was meant to be enjoyed on my birthday, the 26th, with my son and my father. It was my father, after all, that introduced me to fine wines many years ago. And we have enjoyed several decades of wine dinners since then. He and my mom are still quite spry at 86 and still love fine wine, which they drink every evening.
The Krug Cab has some memories for him. Cuban born, both he and his brother were sent to boarding school at age 14. They both later went to U.S. colleges. In Summer of 1960, my father had just graduated from Tulane and his brother received his Masters from MIT. They celebrated with a road trip across the Country in a 1959 Chevy. They flew into San Francisco, went to the wine country, and then drove down to LA. Starting on the famous U.S. Highway 66 at the Santa Monica Pier, they took side jaunts off 66 to Vegas and the Grand Canyon, partied in New Orleans, got in a car wreck in Alabama, and then went all the way to Miami in a banged up car. The trip took weeks, as they were site-seeing more than just trying to get somewhere. They remain super close even today, 65 years later, even still traveling together with their wives. My wife and I joined them once in Provence, France, where they rented a small villa for several months. Was an epic time.
As with any good wine, it sparks memories and conversations. My dad told us the story of them visiting Krug, Beringer and Louis Martini. We called up his brother Jorge, who distinctly remembers them being introduced to Sauvignon Blanc as well. Jorge also distinctly remembered enjoying the Rieslings from Beringer. My dad later took my mom to all of these wineries. I recall my dad drinking alot of Beringer Cabernet back then, it seemed to be one of his domestic favorites.
Doing a little Internet sleuthing, the Mondavi Family purchased Krug in 1943. Robert and Peter Mondavi ultimately ran the winery but did not get along, they had dramatically differing views on the direction of the winery. Peter was more conservative, and Robert as we now know to be the case, was far more ambitious, modern and expansive in his views. This 1965 Krug bottle is symbolic, as that is the last wine that Robert actually made for the family, he was kicked out of the family winery at the end of that year and started his own winery in 1966. Apparently, Robert and Peter got in a fist fight, prompting the family to take a vote on whether Robert would stay or go. He lost that vote.
I found a 2014 tasting note on this 1965 Krug from Carlo Mondavi for reference:
“My grandfather’s last year making wines at this beautiful estate… Still had fruit, flower and subtle spice…”
The fruit in this 1965 Krug is special as well. Much of the fruit comes from the historic To-Kalon vineyard, which was planted in 1868 by Hamilton Walker Crab in what is now called the Oakville appellation. He originally named it Hermosa Vineyards, which in Spanish means “beautiful”. In 1886, he changed the name from Hermosa to To-Kalon, a Greek name meaning “the highest beauty” or “the highest good.”
The 1964 Cab had 45% To-Kalon fruit and the 1966 Cab had 88% To-Kalon fruit. I cannot find any data on the specific percentage in the 1965, but presumably it had somewhere in between those two numbers, and supposedly it was using more and more of the fruit from that vineyard. And then somewhere in the 1960s they started blending some other varieties as well. Peter was the one that introduced French oak to this wine starting in 1964. Apparently he was influenced that year by a trip to France with André Tchelistcheff, the dean of American winemaking.
The 1964 was labeled at 11.4% alcohol! The 1966 clocked in at 12.8%. This 1965 is right in between at 12%. Perfect balance.
The 1965 is gorgeous. Utterly classic old school Napa. Eucalyptus notes on the nose, quite pronounced. Earthy brambly dark nuances. Palate is so transparent, dry earth, green tobacco leaf, dried red fruits and some cassis. Palate is somewhere between silk with a slight grainy residue. This wine is not still at apogee but it’s not at the end of its lifecycle either. It’s quite lively with crisp citrus acids and fully integrated tannins. A treat to drink this wine from an impeccable bottle. And twice in one week! (94 pts.)
Ok back to the beginning. Started with a huge cheese board and a 2022 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest. An outstanding Chablis. Chalk, brine, oyster shells, green apple peal and lemon zest. Still a baby. Huge structure and framing. Needs a lot of air but is and will be sublime. (94+ pts.)
While we were grilling the racks of lamb, opened and decanted a 1998 Château Certan de May, Pomerol. Funky baby. Very pronounced notes of toasted garlic and black truffle. A fairly rich wine with black fruits and dank earth. Fully integrated tannins and at apogee. A polarizing wine. My sister and I loved it, nobody else did. She has a fabulous palate. (93 pts.)
Since my son and his #snowflake palate didn’t like the Pomerol, and pops seemed indifferent about it, I popped a 2009 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence. Ok this is a flat out stunning CDP, and I’m not even a fan of the vintage! Funky brambly black fruit notes, barn plank, spice rack and hints of tar (sister said burnt rubber). Blood orange on the palate. This wine has entered the zone, drinking beautifully. Extended aging in neutral oak has done this wine well. Paired wonderfully with grilled rack of lamb and lamb chops. (95 pts.)
Ended the evening with a 1944 Royal Oporto (Real Companhia Velha) Porto Colheita. Cork was a mess, color was cloudy. Thought this would be an expensive fail. But alas, birthday wishes and all that, it was wonderful. Orange marmalade, Irish butter, plump golden raisins and toasted walnuts. Distinct sherry notes as well. A fairly rich tawny with a bit of heat to it, but within bounds. This wine was a total hit at the table. (95 pts.)
Ok we really ended later, pops needed whisky. The Talisker 14 library release cask strength is exceptional. Peppermint candy and waxy, oily texture. Big mouthfeel, quite full-bodied. Add a cube. And enjoy. Just wonderful.
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