The 2023 VDP Grosser Ring - Mosel Wine Auction Results Thread

Good evening everyone! Starting Friday morning at around 7AM EST, this thread is where Brian Stotter and I will bring you real time results from the 2023 VDP Grosser Ring auction as it happens. If you want also want to view the live auction (while of course periodically returning for our brilliant commentary), then check out the VDPWeingueter channel on youtube where the auction will be live streamed.

This thread will serve as a record of sale prices for quick reference so that you do not have to review the entire video. If you have any specific questions about the bidding process between now and Friday, here is a good place to ask. On auction day, if you are participating in the auction in any way, or just have questions or thoughts- please chime in as we go through the morning. The general format is that Brian will post screen shots of results as they happen, and then I will come in after and on a by-producer basis compare the results to prior year, recent trends or anything else that pops to mind.

Last year, the 2022 Mosel Auction had every reason to be the most lucrative ever- and it did not disappoint. There was a truly great vintage on offer, exchange rates were very favorable for US buyers, the world was emerging from COVID and buying up everything in sight, and finally and most importantly- the continued evolution of access to the German Auctions brought in a whole new audience of eager buyers.

For the 2023 auction, while things are going well generally in the luxury products category, the only one of the above factors that has improved since last year is access to, and general awareness of, the auctions. And that one factor could potentially drive prices even higher this year- especially among the great number of wines that have been relatively undervalued in recent years as a new audience was eager to buy and started off by bidding on the auction versions of commercially released wines of wide presence and high reputation in the United States. This year could be very similar to what happened to the Bordeaux markets from 2010-2012, namely the entrance of China to the marketplace in a big way overcame all sorts of generally negative market conditions to generate a true Bordeaux bull market, and one that was led first by Lafite, only later to expand broadly to other chateaux.

In 2023, there are 68 auction lots covering 32 different wines (not including the charity case lot.) Last year, there were 72 lots representing 33 different wines. This does not represent any significant shifts, but it is worth noting that Kabinett is king this year, plus with the short crop a few estates are selling fewer wines than usual. Schaefer is not offering an Auslese this year. Most dramatically of all, Prum is only offering a Spatlese, foregoing their usual offerings of a Kabinett and a handful of Auslesen.

Three important auctions/producers to follow on Friday,

Egon-Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben
As I said last year, this wine is the Lafite-Rothschild, the 1.00 carat D-flawless brilliant round cut diamond of the Mosel Saar Ruwer. Despite being repeatedly the largest parcel of any wine offered in the sale, the prices have soared in recent years with the highest hammer price of any Kabinett sold at the Mosel- and indeed higher than any Spatlese and most Auslesen.

This hammered for 501 Euro last year, 322 Euro the year prior and 160 Euro in the 2015 vintage. The hammer price for this wine, along with the one following, will tell the tale best of how these auctions fare after a 2022 Auction that had every reason to be a peak, but is likely to be just another step on an upward trajectory. I predict this will hammer for between 510 and 552 Euro.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese
Egon Muller’s Kabinett is more likely to go higher than its 2021 counterpart than is Schaefer’s Spatlese. This is not intended to be unkind- but is a reflection of the fact that Kabinett is King these days – no matter who made it – and also that Schaefer’s 2021 Spatlese received a 100 point score and experienced a percentage increase in price that far exceeded any year over year change for Egon Muller- or any other Mosel Auction wine for the years where I have data.

This hammered for 450 Euro last year, 140 Euro the year prior and 140 Euro in the 2015 vintage. I predict this will hammer for between 302 and 352 Euro.

Von Schubert – Maximin Grunhauser
If Egon Muller and Willi Schaefer are the new established darlings of the Mosel Auction, the most likely next ascendant to the A list is von Schubert. Kabinett is a great strength here and the Kabinett went for 85 Euro last year- following on a great run that has seen the price just about double in a handful of years.

Stickies are also a specialty at von Schubert, and have become extremely difficult to procure in the commercial marketplace. While there is always a nice array of Auslesen available, BA, TBA and Eiswein make very rare appearances- and are among the most compelling and long-lived sweet wines in the world. This year there will be an Eiswein offered, and predictions are all over the map- as high as the 800s for a half bottle. We will find out soon enough.

See you all Friday morning!

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I’ll head over to the Mosel tomorrow for my annual auction pilgrimage. I must say, I have some mixed feelings this year. I’m sure some of the wines will be phenomenal and I’ll end up buying more than I could conceivably consume, particularly on Saturday at the Bernkasteler Ring.

Where my unease comes from is the by now enormous delta between auction and normal bottlings.
You can argue that the ones that consistently are only sold through the auction (EM Alte Reben, SL Doctor) don’t have a normal bottle comparison.
Being able to buy about 16 bottles of JJ Prum W-S Kabi '22 for the price of one auction bottling '21 gave me some pause though. Sure, vintages are different, but that’s quite the gap.
With the price escalation of the last few years, the fun has diminished a bit for me. I guess I’m getting a bit tired of thinking “why on earth would anyone pay that much?” so frequently.
Fortunately, I’m sure I’ll have a blast at the Bernkasteler Ring on Saturday!

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This is my problem. Not only do I think a $150 bottle of wine is expensive in general, but I have trouble spending that on Kabinett or Spatlese when I can get other great (even if not as excellent) examples for a fraction of the price. More power to those who buy these most in demand Auction bottles though.

That’s my take on Prum and Schaefer for sure. The auction bottles aren’t nearly different enough to be worth the significant markup. But there are some special bottles like MĂŒller and Keller


That is exactly how I felt coming into this year, and considering over the past two years I have slowly sold off about 20 cases of older auction wines because I was just not drinking them fast enough (and the secondary market was getting very good for such things), I almost gave this year a miss.

And then I sat down with the Bernkasteler catalog, read through it, researched past results, looked through MFW tasting notes- and suddenly realized I was having a lot of fun learning about a lot of estates we never see here in Texas at all. And better still, the prices were such that it would be fun to take a chance and see how it went.

Last night I turned in a bid sheet for 9 lots - most of them in the Bernkasteler, and I could not be happier. I look at it now like I do Burgundy- happily I had 20 years of drinking DRC and Roumier etc. when it was affordable and available, and so now I just need to be grateful for that experience and look elsewhere. Same goes for Germany. I just had to mentally get to that place where I realized I was lucky in the past and that it gave me the knowledge to seek out new things and sort of start all over again- looking forward to the real pleasure of tasting something wonderful for the first time.

Here’s to Saturday- best of luck!

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There is always that imprimatur of auction wines that is kind of fun to have.

But then there are wines where there are no auction bottlings like Schafer Frohlich Felseneck gg 2021 which the Advocate gave 99-100 points, and I am assuming that wine is as good as it gets. The thing is, that it was selling for around $50 on release and is still available under $100.

The auction generates bigger prices, and had that been an auction wine with that kind of critical acclaim, it would probably have fetched four or five times the amount.

When was this wine ever available for $50?

That is what I paid. Well $53 to be exact.

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And it ain’t one or two cases where I have found normal bottling(s) actually better for my taste either


I think prices will be down despite continued hype consistent with last year’s auctions among a small set of merchants in the UK and US. There is this year undoubtedly a smaller gap between the auction and non-auction wines, and whereas last year I think it was easy to be speculate that the wines were unique and profound over time (jury still out in a big way
) the 22s show as early-drinking and pleasurable, but not a lot of profundity.

On a producer-by-producer basis, I thought Lauer showed incredibly well at yesterday’s tasting. The best wines at his table was the ‘22 lambertskirch Spatlese, which I will have to track down. The auction kabi is incredibly high in acidity this year - a screamer. I’m not sure I would call it better than the non-auction version as you have to wonder if it will be mean it’s whole life (same thing I wonder about the ‘21s).

Botrytis specialist Egon Muller made a beautiful old school auslese in ‘22. I’d love to own a few. Neither kabi was particularly interesting to me.

The Schloss Lieser doctor was a little flatter than usual. Not bad, but if the price is up then it’s easy for me to let it go.

Willi’s wines are great again. I wouldn’t be surprised to see prices go up here as non-auction allocations get harder and harder to obtain and the wines consistently outperform.

I’ll up my bids in Fritz Haag this morning based on what I tasted yesterday.

I don’t buy much eiswein but the ‘21 Grunhaus herrenberg struck me as pretty special and I’d be happy to own some. The other back-vintage sweeties - Lauer ‘11 TBA and Muller ‘15 BA - weren’t available to taste.

Overall I like the vintage and will make good use of it over the next 10 years.

Alex

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This now has an auction version - the Final.

Thank you for your impressions- and hoping you are right the prices are lower. After the performance of the 2018 TBA two years ago, I am a little afraid of where the Eiswein will land, but I did put in what I thought was a pretty solid pyramid bid- so I am especially happy to hear your positive reviews.

The live feed is up but still no picture- so now we await opening remarks


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Here we go!

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The music has started- here we go!

Too bad they disabled the chat in the YouTube stream

Hammer prices for the 750 mL (above) and 1.5 L bottles of the Josef Milz.

If I had to describe the tasting of this morning in one word it’s heterogeneous.
Geltz- Zilliken was exceptionally rich and Von Hövel on the total opposite end: very lean and sour.
I really liked the Schloss Lieser Doctor and Domprobst. Fritz Haag’s Kabinett was beautiful as well. And this will be the first time I’ll bid on a Dr Loosen SpĂ€tlese Goldkapsel.

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2021 Josef Milz Apotheke Magna Charta GG in 1.5L

Up next is the same wine in 3L, but only 1 bottle offered!