Here are a couple of Ribera’s I’ve had recently. Yes, it’s mostly Dominio del Aguila since I’m their importer in Panama.
Dominio del Águila Picaro del Aguila Clarete 2014
Revisiting this Clarete, I recall the 2014 vintage being powerful and closed. Now, it has blossomed into an open, highly complex wine with refreshing orange peel aromas, followed by red fruits, spices, hints of smoke. It’s a fresh, medium + bodied wine, offering crisp citrus, pomegranate, and tart red currants, followed by a refreshing balsamic mid-palate with hints of minerals and spices.
Dominio del Águila Variedades Blancas Ancestrales Españolas 2019
On my last visit, Jorge mentioned his experimental whites. When I said I hadn’t tried them, he promised, “I’ll send you a few bottles in your next order.” Sure enough, three bottles showed up, each with a different label. I don’t know much about them, only that they’re special micro-lots of fewer than 300 bottles. They came from vintages with lower acidity that went through malolactic fermentation, made from a mix of local whites from very old vineyards, mostly Albillo with some Pirulés. Extremely floral, it crackles with toasted sesame oil, stone dust, lemon oil, and brined olives. Medium + in structure with a touch of creamy texture, it shows briny notes wrapped in fresh citrus and saline minerals on a high-pitched mid-palate. The finish is long and stony, with subtle hints of Indian spices.
Viñedos de Matallana 2019
Matallana is made by Telmo Rodriguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkiza. It’s sourced from 21.5ha of old vines across 5 villages. A blend of Tempranillo complemented by 15% of Bobal, Garnacha, and Albillo. It was aged for 14 months in French oak barrels. With the 2020 vintage, this wine will be exclusively available through La Place de Bordeaux. It has a robust aromatic profile, black fruits with cedar, graphite, subtle floral notes and integrated toasted oak. Structurally, it is full-bodied, flavors of cool-black fruits that lead into a balsamic mid-palate with notes of dried orange peel, and medium + acidity. It finishes with a long mineral accent and pronounced dusty tannins.
Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Único 1972
This bottle was bought on release in 1981 or 1982, just before the DO came into being. That explains the label with the
Vino Fino de Mesa (Fine Table Wine) since it was the only thing they could classify it as. This vintage of Único blends 60% Tinto Fino, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot, Malbec, and Albillo. It fermented in 22,000L wooden vats, aged one year in 576L barrels, then a decade in French oak. The wine is mostly in the tertiary aroma phase. It’s earthy with dried black fruits, geisha coffee, dried orange peel, smoked meats, tobacco, and camphor. Structurally medium +, flavors of dried black fruit upfront, a balsamic-tinged mid-palate with smoked meats, lifted by medium + acidity and perhaps some VA. It culminates in a rustic dusty finish with resolved tannins.