I’ve been traveling regularly to NOLA over the last couple months on business, and have gotten out to sample some good spots around town. Note that I’ve been previously to many of the old standards–Galatoire’s, Commander’s, Lilette, August, etc.–so I skipped them this time around. Here are some quick-hit impressions. All meals solo at the bar:
Shaya: Awesome - one of the more thrilling meals in recent memory. This has everything I look for in a restaurant. Interesting, unique, chef-driven food that’s hyper-delicious; a relaxed setting; friendly service; and a solid (if unspectacular) beverage program. The kibbeh naya (Israeli beef and lamb tartar with a butter pancake) was maybe the best thing I’ve had all year. The hummus and fresh pita were great, and the lamb shank with yogurt and grapefruit was near-perfect, although massive. A total winner. I can’t wait to return and eat through more of the menu. Solid A
Peche: I’d be a regular if this were in Houston (and honestly, it should be). Super-fresh, gulf fish in an unpretentious setting. Aggressive flavoring and textures, but with light sauces and broths. Hard not to love, although the location and setting isn’t quite as charming as some NOLA spots. A-
Herbsaint: It’s becoming an old standard, I suppose, but I’d not been previously. Mostly-well executed meal in a lovely setting, but far from life-altering. The Gumbo was proper and delicious, and a main of chicken in etouffe was decadent comfort food, if a touch overcooked. I imagine everything is tasty, but not spectacular enough for me to sprint back. Clearly a great, charming date spot. B+
Compere Lapin: Awesome cocktails and super friendly service. Tasty food and the kitchen seems to be firing on all cylinders, although I didn’t find the concept quite as intriguing as I expected or as advertised. Caveat is that I only had lunch, so perhaps this is better for dinner. B / B+
R’evolution: Disappointing. Had the Death by Gumbo and Veal Chop. The Death By Gumbo is a brilliant and impressive-looking concept (roasted quail stuffed with rice and sausage in gumbo roux), but the actual soup couldn’t touch the delicious, lighter gumbo at Herbsaint. The Veal Chop was Flintstones-sized, and objectively tasty, but steakhouse-generic – not something I’m looking for in New Orleans. The whole feel was “high-end steakhouse,” so while the execution was good and the food tasty, this was not a singular experience, and not one where I’d rush back. B-