I close friend of mine and his mom are traking a trip to Burgundy in late March/early April. I’ve helped them with trips to Napa, Sonoma, and Oregon in the past. Thinking I had in depth knowledge of the region, they asked for help planning their trip. While I can probably do the aforementioned regions in my sleep, I know nothing about what tasting in Burgundy is like. I’ve never been to any European wine region. I have no clue what the tasting policies are, what producers have tasting rooms, etiquette, cost of tastings and expectations of purchase, etc. I admit to my ignorance, which I understand is step one in the process of learning.
So, I beg you Burg-Heads to tell me everything you can on tasting through the region. I’d really love to learn, and have been extremely curious about what it is like for some time now. Lay it on me…
Visiting Burgundy is not at all like visiting California or Oregon. For the most part, you cannot just stop in, at least at better domaines. You have to make reservations in advance. If you can get in at all - some domaines don’t see people unless recommended by retailers, etc. The payoff, however, comes when you do get in. You generally are not seeing some flunky, people who only man a tasting room. Rather, you are visiting with people from the family that makes the wine, that owns the winery, etc. The experiences can be unbelievably memorable. Here is a great link for websites for a lot of domaines. http://www.burgundy-report.com/discover-burgundy/19-producer-links/ This will tell you how to contact domaines. A number speak English. Places that I think of as relatively easy to get into where I have had great visits include Rossignol-Trapet, Domaine des Lambrays and Chandon des Briailles. I also highly recommend visiting Jadot and Bouchard, but you need to contact Jadot, at least, several weeks in advance for them to make arrangements.
For other things in Burgundy (hotels, restaurants, etc.), you need to buy this: http://www.burghound.com/guide.php One other way is to stay here: La Terre d'Or Luxury Bed and Breakfast in beaune We did not really use that much of his help when stayign there, but I think Jean Louis will provide if requested a lot of help with domaines to visit, etc.
Let me say this, Burgundy is my favorite spot in the world to visit. With careful planning and a bit of work, it can be unbelievably memorable.
We worked through local retailers to arrange visits with Rapet, Mugnier, de Montille, and Lamarche. It took several months to do this so certainly plan well in advance. The winemaker spoke English in all cases except Rapet. I found that just being enthusiastic and open to discussion (a certain amount of humility never hurts either) led to great discussions and a great time. These visits were more formal than those in the U. S., almost like being invited to someone’s home (that is exactly what happened when we visited Lamarche) so one really does get to know the producer. As Howard has stated, these visits are truly memorable experiences which heighten one’s appreciation of the wines.
If you get a chance, rent some bicycles and cycle the dedicated cycle paths through the Cote de Beaune. This is gorgeous, idyllic scenery through some iconic vineyards you’ve always read about. The restaurants are great of course, and it certainly pays to make reservations in advance.
Wonderful place to visit. Hope you have a great time.
This is a naive question, so bear with me… do you typically pay for these tastings? I know they’re much more intimate and time-consuming than most places in the U.S., so it would make sense that one would pay, but I could imagine some winemakers being offended by that. What is the proper etiquette in terms of compensation and otherwise in Burgundy?
Spencer, I’d love to know that fact as well. Doug, thanks for the input. Perhaps I’ll use a few ITB contacts to help my friend out. Sounds like that’s a must to get a foot in the door.
I have never paid for a wine tasting in Burgundy. Of course, I try to buy at least a bottle or more to thank them although there are sometimes when I actually start craving to buy the wine (for me, not for politeness) because of the differences in price vs. the US. I remember the first time I visited Jacky Truchot. After they spent like 2 hours with us, I told Nancy we had to buy a couple of bottles. Then, I looked at the prices -22 e for grand crus and 12 e for premier crus and my thoughts changed to - now how much can I carry back? My biggest disappointment on the my last visit was that (after providing us wonderful tastings and visits) Mugneret-Gibourg and Tremblay had no wine to sell us.
Whenever we have tasted in Europe we have not paid for the tasting and the prospect of purchasing bottles has not come up. It really is not so much a business visit as a social one (and a really meaningful one at that).
Thank you for the notes! Please keep any advice or suggestions you have coming! I’ve read through a number of other threads, and would love to know more about other places you suggest visiting, which producers are generally most available (thanks Howard), fun spots for lunch/dinner, and any tips for getting around the wine country.
I’ve had multiple trips to burgundy, and agree with Howard, that it is one of my favorite places to visit on the planet. Howard has good suggestions…It really is nothing like wine tasting in California…more like Oregon, but different, in that there are few tasting rooms per se. You’re visiting farmers…not big chateau like in Bordeaux, etc. One thing you might consider is getting someone like Kim Gagné of ‘Journeys in Wine’ to help you. She hs tons of contacts with vignerons that are sometimes difficult to schedule…ie Vogue, Mugneret-Gilbourg, Ponsot, Lafarge, Fourrier, etc, etc…She is an excellent translator and driver…some of the properties are not that easy to find if you don’t know the area. Of course there is a cost to this, but I personally think it worth it…We also have stayed at La Terre d’Or outside of Beaune and would recommend it, if you don’t mind driving in to town. My favorite restaurants are Apres du Clochers in Pommard, Cave Madeline, Cave des Arches and Ma Cuisine in Beaune,Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin and Le Milliseme in Chambolle-Musigny…Also probably one of the most educational visits is with Jadot… You will taste all the different terroir from the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits…I highly recommend!
Ditto on the “no charge” in Burgundy. One thing you might consider is bringing a gift to the Domaine - perhaps a wine from your neck of the woods. Some Burgundians love this and treasure the bottles North Americans have brought to them as gifts.
We also have never paid for a tasting and frequently aren’t sold wine although we always ask if we can buy. Do your friends speaks French? It isn’t a necessity but it definitely opens some doors. They need to make appointments far in advance.
My wife and I enjoyed part of our honeymoon there last summer, had an amazing time…it’s truly an incredible region to visit. I highly recommend renting a car or getting a chauffeur service while you’re there; it gave us the flexibility to explore vineyard sites, villages, and manage visits all at our own pace.
We (fortunately) had a good friend ITB living in Paris who was able to help us arrange visits well in advance which was essential. Echoing what’s already been said, the visits are generally intimate affairs, deeply personal and very enlightening indeed. We had eye opening visits at Grivot, Burguet, Anne Gros and Bertrand Machard de Gramont to name a handful. Tasting in their cellars/homes with the winemaker and/or their family members’ sharing their insights was a exhilarating and intellectual experience I’ll never forget. They may or may not have wines to sell you, but of course it never hurts to ask and on occasion they will offer to show you what they have available after the tasting. Just don’t expect to walk out with a case of Richebourg! …and of course, make sure you have ample cash on hand if you expect to buy anything at the domaines.
I think Roger is right on the mark with the restaurants. Depending on how long your friend will be there, might be a good idea to leave some meals unplanned – one of our best was an ad hoc picnic in nearby Bouilland.
We also stayed at La Terre d’Or for a couple of nights. I’ll just pile on and say we recommend it as well, wonderful service and wonderful rooms. Just don’t expect to run into many locals there, in fact, expect mainly other Americans. For first timers, it’s probably a good idea to stay near Beaune. If you’re adventurous, there are some Airbnb like sites in French that provide less touristy (i.e. better value) accommodation options.
Lastly of course, having a native French speaker with you is a MAJOR plus. Thankfully, I married one.
Good sense suggests that you book lodging at Chez Hall in Meursault!
Anyway, it’s kind of humourous how at Mugneret-Gibourg, they receive a fair number of gift bottles. All sorts of misc. foreign (i.e.: US) wines. They stack them on the wall along the stairway down to the cellar until the once/year party when they crack them open.
Smaller Domaine’s seem more appreciative of gift wines. Not sure what wine gift would be appropriate at some of the bigger names: Ponsot, Rousseau, Dujac, Leroy, DRC, etc.
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