Planning a Trip to Burgundy: Advice Needed

That sounds familiar…we spent part of our honeymoon in Burgundy (and a few days in Alsace) in 1983…It was memorable…and the marriage has lasted so far, too…hope it works as well for you. Been back to both regions many times since. It all started on that trip.

RE: picnics in Bouilland…picnics, biking, etc…are hard to do at the time of this trip starting this thread. It is generally pretty gray and cold there in March/April…

And, re: gift bottles. I do have to chuckle about the amount of US (and other wine) many domaines get…we brought maple syrup from PA one year…and they didn’t know what to do with it… Those US bottles seem to pile up at some estates. I got the idea that the winemakers in Burgundy aren’t all that interested in US wines for the most part. In fact, many of the winemakers are not even that interested in wine, per se. They make it; they sell it; they drink it…but…it’s not their hobby or passion…not surprisingly. A gross generalization, of course, with many exceptions.

So what would you suggest then? What is the etiquette and a graceful, useful way to say thank you?

Great idea!!

It’s a token as you could not easily recompense for the cost of the wine tasted or their time. One year we brought bottle stoppers finished in a range of Australian hardwoods. Another time we brought over Australian football jumpers for some special domains (very popular). Jeremy Holmes was very popular with a gift of a very loud Australian shirt to another domain. Be creative and whatever you gift will be appreciated even if they have no idea what to do with the gift !

I brought Turley Zins. I later got emails raving about the wines, something they had never had. I also never buy wines at domaines that I can buy at home, no matter how good the deal is.

My advice is to go to a domaine that is not imported to your country. Buy what you cannot get at home.

We stayed here, not far from Morey St Denis, amazing experience:

Spencer, a good question.

Though we brought gifts early on, in more recent years we haven’t, as we thought it was not necessary and , frankly, not that much appreciated. In fact, at some point, we began to think it made some of them uncomfortable. We pretty much have visited a core of winemakers who we first visited in 1988, with additions and subtractions along the way. I think it was the xmas in 2002 when we brought bottles of PA maple syrup that we stopped. I think it really is more an understanding of what is really going on at the smallish/artisanal domaines, which is all we visit. Receiving people is part of their business. The more successful domaines seem to be receiving people-- of all levels of knowledge and interest-- all the time. Some wine families like it more than others, not surprisingly. But, virtually all of them, whether superstars or up and comers or whatever, keep doing it. They need to to keep their businesses going and , hopefully, prospering. Christophe Roumier once explained to me that though for the last decades he had nothing to sell to visitors , it was something that he valued as vital to his business. He explained that though he was prospering, that could change and loyalty and interest were essential. It made me look at these visits differently.

They are receiving us, but we/you took the trouble to single them out from the oceans of wineries and came to visit. We become ambassadors…and as I 've said to the winemakers many times " how does it make you feel that I’m/we’re now the “experts” on your wines in x city/town?". I then say, it must not be too comforting. But, that’s the goal, I think. And, it is also good for their egos, though , with exceptions, I’ve never thought that too many of them were motivated by egos…they’re just carrying on a familial tradition.

A long way of saying, I don’t think anything is necessary, but enthusiasm to be there…and knowledge about what that particular winery is up to/about. That is , I think, what the wineries are looking for…and the reason they receive us. (And, they often get to taste their wines in barrel from a particular barrel, which gives them more info.) Ask someone who lives nearby a vineyard, if you think you can do so comfortably, and ask to see their holding…if they do that, I think, you’ll see what really motivates them…sharing their passion with those winemakers who are passionate about what they do.

Bottom line, I don’t think bringing a gift adds anything…and…might make the winemaker uncomfortable, given his/her goal: to make you a fan/“expert” in the hour or so that you have there. I think they call this “lagniape” in Louisiana. It’s a huge part of Burgundy culture, too…

Now…obviously, there are exeptions…places that get overwhelmed and places, like DRC/Leroy, which feel they don’t have to bother…

Thanks again

Eric…just curious what you mean…for carrying on the plane?

There was (or is) a supply store somewhere southeast of Dijon…near Brochon? that sells everything one could imagine for such things…as well as winemaking equipment. On one trip some winemaker sent us there…and it was exactly what we needed for all purposes. FWIW.

I agree with Howard. Burgundy is my favorite spot to visit. So many places to visit. The Burghound guide has some incredible suggestions. All are first rate.
You will find as many opinions about the best restaurant as you have people that you ask. I agree with pretty much everything written in Allen’s Insider Guide.

I love La Terre d’Or but it is up on the Montaigne de Beaune. Jean-Louis is a great host however and would make your stay special. He does have some nice contacts with growers too. If you want to be closer, Jardin de Lois is the best deal to me.
Great people. Breakfast included. Walking distance to everything.

La Cep is great. I am staying a L’Hotel in May due to the size of our group. Not cheap but probably the nicest digs in Beaune.

Have a great time!

Spencer,

I can only offer another point of view here but we have always taken some unique thing from our area of the country. In Georgia, we have some of the best pecans on the planet. In the past, my small group has given a bag of pecans to the host of the tasting. It is personal and something consumable. We gave them a recipe for toasted pecans they could use with that incredible french butter. They seemed to like it.
If there is something that you think they would enjoy (not wine however… they have plenty of that), I would take it as a thank you.

If you don’t have something like this, just be prompt and enjoy the ride. They love passionate and enthusiastic Burgundy lovers. That is payment enough for them I think.

FWIW.

+1 on Jardin de Lois. I’ve stayed at there as well as La Terre d’Or…certainly Jardin de Lois is closer to Beaune and more convenient. Also, agree on l’Hotel…also the restaurant is great…just had my 70th BD party there…they did a fabulous job…

Stuart, I’ve definitely run in to the problem Eric describes throughout Europe. He’s talking about 12 or 15 bottle shippers for “check-in” on the plane. We often check-in an empty shipper on the way over. My wife has a handy shoulder bag that snuggly fits a 6 bottle shipper. It saves losing several hours trying to hunt for them…sometimes unsuccessfully. I would imagine that e-commerce is making wines shippers easier to find in France than just a few years ago.

RT

Agree. I usually take my “Wine Check” . You can check it out at http://www.thewinecheck.com. It has wheels and easy to navigate through the airport…If you’re taking the TGV to CDG, it can be a long walk to your airline and the shipper can get a bit heavy…

Not necessarily direct, but one thing I do is give the estate publicity. I write up my visits and post them on Wine Berserkers. I don’t lie, but then don’t have to because I am visiting producers I love. But, I do try to publicize how nice people have been to me and how good the wines are.

Also, I try to buy wines from the estates I visit, even if it is not until I get home. Again, not difficult because I visit wineries I love and because every time I drink a wine from a domaine I have visited it makes me remember fondly the visit.

I guess my view is the opposite. Visit wineries where you would buy the wines later when you get home. Every time you drink the wine you will remember the visit, which is worth at least 5 points to the quality of the wine.

The reason I recommended Terre d’Or is that they are new to Burgundy and don’t know the region or the producers. As you said, Jean-Louis is a great host and will provide help.

For me, I often like to stay in Beaune (like le Cep) so I can walk to and from dinner.

What i have done is buy things like this:

That way I don’t have to incur the expense of an extra bag going. We bring an extra “suitcase” that is collapseable and stick it in a suitcase for the way going. We put the totes in large plastic bags in case anything goes wrong. Then put it in the middle of clothes.

That seems like a great option, Roger. For a case…or two. Saves running to find an alternative once you are there.

In 1985, on People Express, we carried back 7 cases; 1988, we carried back 9; cases on the plane; in 1990 13 . Remember running around Paris looking for bubble wrap, which we found. Lost a bottle two times…on the luggage conveyor belt…in Newark or JFK.

Then I got smarter…and found a way to ship things that didn’t involve carry on, except for the most valuable stuff…always took at least 3 cases on the plane every trip. Nowadays, that would seem prohibitive…ON the 1988 and 1990 trip, we didn’t pay a cent extra…except for negligible “duty” in Newark. Those days are gone gone gone. The terrorists and airlines have “won” ; us terroirists have lost our world. [soap.gif]

Yeah, I used to check in a couple of cases and carry one another. Once I broke a bottle of the 1989 Trimbach Frederic Emile VT in the Frankfurt Airport. People remarked how lovely my carryon smelled!

Im a little late to the party here but here is my advice on visiting burgundy:

There is a lot more to Burgundy than the Cote d’Or. You get more traditional home cooking and its more beautiful in other areas. My favorite day and best meal was in Tournus for example. The Haute cotes could be a vacation in itself.