Spencer, a good question.
Though we brought gifts early on, in more recent years we haven’t, as we thought it was not necessary and , frankly, not that much appreciated. In fact, at some point, we began to think it made some of them uncomfortable. We pretty much have visited a core of winemakers who we first visited in 1988, with additions and subtractions along the way. I think it was the xmas in 2002 when we brought bottles of PA maple syrup that we stopped. I think it really is more an understanding of what is really going on at the smallish/artisanal domaines, which is all we visit. Receiving people is part of their business. The more successful domaines seem to be receiving people-- of all levels of knowledge and interest-- all the time. Some wine families like it more than others, not surprisingly. But, virtually all of them, whether superstars or up and comers or whatever, keep doing it. They need to to keep their businesses going and , hopefully, prospering. Christophe Roumier once explained to me that though for the last decades he had nothing to sell to visitors , it was something that he valued as vital to his business. He explained that though he was prospering, that could change and loyalty and interest were essential. It made me look at these visits differently.
They are receiving us, but we/you took the trouble to single them out from the oceans of wineries and came to visit. We become ambassadors…and as I 've said to the winemakers many times " how does it make you feel that I’m/we’re now the “experts” on your wines in x city/town?". I then say, it must not be too comforting. But, that’s the goal, I think. And, it is also good for their egos, though , with exceptions, I’ve never thought that too many of them were motivated by egos…they’re just carrying on a familial tradition.
A long way of saying, I don’t think anything is necessary, but enthusiasm to be there…and knowledge about what that particular winery is up to/about. That is , I think, what the wineries are looking for…and the reason they receive us. (And, they often get to taste their wines in barrel from a particular barrel, which gives them more info.) Ask someone who lives nearby a vineyard, if you think you can do so comfortably, and ask to see their holding…if they do that, I think, you’ll see what really motivates them…sharing their passion with those winemakers who are passionate about what they do.
Bottom line, I don’t think bringing a gift adds anything…and…might make the winemaker uncomfortable, given his/her goal: to make you a fan/“expert” in the hour or so that you have there. I think they call this “lagniape” in Louisiana. It’s a huge part of Burgundy culture, too…
Now…obviously, there are exeptions…places that get overwhelmed and places, like DRC/Leroy, which feel they don’t have to bother…