Otto's London travelogue / Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2025

Righty, as @ToddFrench had mentioned earlier somewhere here, I was in London in early November with a friend of mine, courtesy of Decanter; we were offered comp tickets to Decanter’s Fine Wine Encounter 2025 through Wine Berserkers.

As I accumulated approximately 80 tasting notes over the weekend in London, I decided to post them here not all at the same time, but little by little, at the pace I record them in Cellartracker - just to keep things manageable both for me and for the readers. I’m pretty sure nobody would read anything if I posted everything as one single mile-long post!

Anyways, here we go.

We had a morning flight to London, which meant I had to wake up at about 5 am, after a refreshing 4-hour sleep.


The traditional travel ritual at the Helsinki-Vantaa airport: a glass of ale at The Oak Barrel.


Fortunately I had something to pass the time during the flight.

After we had reached London, we had some hours to kill; we checked in to our hotel in Marylebone (just a stone’s throw away from The Landmark hotel, the location of the Fine Wine Encounter) at around 11 am, but we couldn’t get into our room before 2 pm. As we didn’t have anything sensible to do there, we decided to go have a lunch somewhere and check out some wine shops, too.

We hopped aboard a double-decker and traveled to Holborn to check out Shrine to the Vine, the wine shop of the people behind Noble Rot.


Walking to Shrine to the Vine.


The selection was relatively small, but probably the best we saw on our trip. I recognized about 50% of the wines in the shop’s selection, and virtually all of them were bottles I’d love to have in my cellar! However, the wine prices in London were just way above the level I am comfortable with, so even when I was amazed by the selection here, I just grabbed a bottle of Iliana Malihin’s rosé with me.


Next up: lunch at The 10 Cases.


I had “bread with mortadella and provolone” as a starter. I didn’t know what to expect, but I admit I never expected a grilled cheese sandwich reimagined into a cube. This was just criminally delicious.


A reliable steak frites with peppercorn sauce.

As it was only noon and we were about to go through dozens of wines in a few hours, we went with by-the-glass option, instead of a full bottle. Sometimes we are smart like that.

  • 2023 Visintini Friuli Colli Orientali Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali (7.11.2025)
    100% biodynamically farmed Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.

    Quite dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels youthful and expressive with aromas of ripe black cherries, some earthy spices, a little bit of loose tobacco, light mulberry tones, a hint of fresh and crunchy dark fruits and a non-funky touch of something vaguely animale. The wine feels crunchy, somewhat earthy and quite firm on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite intense flavors of black cherries, some tobacco, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of mulberries and crowberries, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of vaguely animale character. The overall feel is enjoyably structure-driven with the high acidity and moderately grippy yet not tough medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, savory and somewhat grippy with a pretty long aftertaste of ripe black cherries, some crunchy crowberry tones, a little bit of pouch tobacco, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of earth and a touch of gravelly minerality.

    A nice, fresh and balanced Refosco that feels youthful yet not primary. Typical of Refosco, the flavor profile is somewhat earthy and rustic, having this kind of vaguely animale overall quality, that is still not funky or brett-related. Just the way the variety is. Enjoyable stuff with good flavor intensity and nice sense of structure. Probably could benefit from a few additional years of aging, but drinking pretty nicely right now. Priced according to its quality at £8,5 (9,65€) for a 125 ml glass in a restaurant.
    (90 points)


From The 10 Cases we walked to Hedonism Wines, another legendary London wine shop.

I have to admit that the selection at Hedonism was not only huge, but also hugely impressive. Tons of amazing wines and also a good number of older vintages as well! However, once again, the prices were so prohibitively expensive that my purchases were limited to just a few not-too-pricey bottles that are quite hard to obtain outside the UK (Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling and the debut vintage of Buçaco Espumante). Before we left the shop, we sat down for a bit and made use of the shop’s Enomatics located in the basement level. Naturally I had to try out some Silver Oak Cab as I was absolutely certain I’m never going to buy a bottle of this kind of wine for myself - especially at the prices the wine retails here across the pond - but I was curious enough to pay a few coins for a small sampler, just to see why the wine is so often reviled and ridiculed.

  • 2014 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (7.11.2025)
    A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (97,7%), Merlot (1,3%), Petit Verdot (0,5%), Malbec (0,3%) and Cabernet Franc (0,2%). Blended together in early 2015, then aged in American oak barrels (50% new, 50% once used) for 24 months. 13,8% alcohol.

    Youthful, luminous and slightly translucent dark ruby color. The heady nose feels very sweet and quite unctuous with aromas of wizened blackcurrants and vanilla oak, some ripe figs, a little bit of juicy strawberry, light toasty notes of sweet mocha oak spice, a hint of cloves and a touch of coconut. The wine feels juicy, rich and somewhat jammy on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of toasty mocha oak and vanilla, some blueberry jam, light sweet notes of ripe black cherries and blackcurrants, a little bit of Bourbon-y toasted oak, hints of cloves and peppery spice and a touch of wizened dark fruits. The structure relies more on the somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins than on the soft, a bit flabby medium acidity. The finish is juicy, quite sweet-toned and somewhat grippy with a very long aftertaste of vanilla and toasty mocha oak, some crème de cassis, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light blueberry jam tones, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of coconut.

    Ugh, this was pretty repugnant stuff. With this much American oak, the wine smells and tastes like Bourbon - or like those cheap "whiskey barrel aged" red wines. The overall feel is quite flabby, sweet-toned and listless with a rather jammy fruit profile and way too much oak for the fruit to handle. This wine feels more like a caricature than anything one should take seriously. Although the wine might keep and even evolve over the next few handfuls of years, I doubt this wine is capable of improving into something actually meaningful or interesting. It beats me why anyone would be willing to part with £100 (approx. 113€) to get an over-oaked, jammy mess like this. Avoid. (79 points)

From Hedonism Wines we walked back to our hotel, dropped off our luggage and any other extra baggage we were carrying in our hotel room and then left for the Decanter event.


Approaching The Landmark hotel…


…and here we are.


We arrived only half an hour after the event had started, but it was getting quite crowded already!

Next up: the tasting notes from the Friday part of the event!

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Now this is the start of an epic travelogue, not like that yak that tried one recently on Portugal. I am amused that you end the first post on a wine even Alfert would have told you to run from! American Oak, yuk. Jammy CA Cab, yuk.

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Yours was a still a real travelogue! Mine is more like a weekend-long vinologue.

I knew that. I just had to do it for the sake of academic curiosity, not for any vinous pleasure! :sweat_smile:

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Alright, here are the first notes from the actual event! After we had registered at the desk and had made a quick tour around the tasting room to see which stand was located where, we kicked off the event with a couple of wines from the Musar stand.

  • 2018 Chateau Musar Blanc - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (7.11.2025)
    A blend of Obaideh (65%) and Merwah (35%), sourced from ungrafted, low-yielding vineyards over 50 years of age that are located at the altitude of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) above sea level. The vintage 2018 had lots of rain during the winter, but relatively little after April. Apart from a three-day heat wave in August, the growing season was very steady and unproblematic. Harvested between September 18th and 22nd. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 9 months in new French 225-liter barriques. Blended in the spring and bottled during the summer of 2019. 12% alcohol.

    Pale-to-medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels surprisingly woody and somewhat toasty with aromas of roasted nuts, some zesty citrus fruits, light oxidative notes of bruised apple, light creamy oak tones and a hint of ripe peach. The wine feels ripe, a bit round and somewhat sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and quite gentle flavors of juicy Golden Delicious apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of nutty wood, light vanilla tones, a hint of chewy toffee and a touch of stony minerality. The medium-plus acidity feels a bit modest, making the wine lack some verve and structure. The finish is long, dry and a bit woody with an aftertaste of nutty oak, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of creaminess, light toffee nuances, a hint of savory spice and a touch of buttery character.

    This was my second time tasting this vintage, and I'm still quite baffled - never before I've seen white Musar be this oaky, woody and nutty. Of course the oaky tones tend to show a little in a freshly released white Musar, but the considerably more oaky and even slightly oxidative overall feel here is a bit more than I've grown used to. Furthermore, the level of acidity here feels a bit lower than I consider typical of this wine. All in all, I think isn't a particularly impressive vintage of Musar Blanc at the moment. I really hope that the wine turns into something more interesting with enough aging - it wouldn't be the first time a Musar disappointed me in its youth, only to turn into something lovely with some age! At the moment the wine feels a bit pricey for its quality at 47,25€ (the price at which it retails around here), but we'll see if things change as the wine ages.
    (88 points)

  • 2020 Chateau Musar Rosé - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (7.11.2025)
    A blend of white Obaideh (67%) and Merwah (30%) with a very small amount of red Cinsaut (3%) added right before pressing the grapes to add color to the wine. All varieties are fermented spontaneously in oak and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Bottled 14 months after the harvest, released in spring 2025, 4½ years after the harvest. 13% alcohol.

    Pale salmon-red color. The nose feels somewhat dull and woody with aromas of sawdust and woolly lanolin, some vanilla tones, a little bit of sweet appley fruit and a hint of ripe red fruits. The wine feels silky but also somewhat mild and soft on the palate with a medium body and a bit mellow flavors of creamy oak, some ripe yellow fruits, light woody notes of sawdust, a little bit of vanilla, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of strawberry. The medium-plus acidity keeps the wine some sense of balance, but doesn't give much sense of freshness or structure. The finish is dry-ish and juicy with a medium-long aftertaste of creamy oak, some vague spicy tones, a little bit of woody sawdust, light saline mineral notes, a hint of woolly lanolin and a touch of sweet strawberry.

    It feels like the wine is still all over the place, lacking in definition and coherence. The wine is mostly about woody notes of untoasted, sawdusty oak that makes the wine feel rather dull and woolly. At the moment the wine offers very little - but it seems to be how these Musar Rosés just work. They don't offer much interest soon after release, but after 10-15 years of aging, they start to come together and actually turn into something much more interesting. So the wine simply isn't going to get a good score now, but I guess one can always ignore that and just let the wine wait in a cellar.
    (86 points)

Next, I checked out some English sparklers that were located more or less opposite of the Musar stand. They had a few more bubblies there, but I was trying to maximize exposure, so instead of tasting everything a single stand had to offer, I had to concentrate on just a few wines per stand. My friend told me that he liked these two wines the most, so I went with them.

  • NV Hambledon Classic Cuvée Brut - United Kingdom, England, Kent (7.11.2025)
    A blend of Chardonnay (57%), Pinot Noir (28%) and Pinot Meunier (15%). Based on the 2020 vintage with 12% of steel tank-aged perpetual reserve. Aged approximately 4 years on the lees, disgorged on 21st of January, 2025. 12% alcohol, dosage 4,5 g/l.

    Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels leesy with aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some crunchy apple notes, a little bit of chalky minerality, light nutty notes of slivered almonds and an autolytic hint of white bread. The wine feels dry, crisp yet not austere and quite harmonious on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light honeyed tones, autolytic hints of nuttiness and white bread and a touch of chalk dust. An ample yet silky smooth mousse adds good sense of volume while the firm acidity brings in some nice sense of freshness and structure. The finish is fresh and crunchy with a long, mouth-puckering aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple, some lemony citrus tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light mineral notes of chalk dust and incisive steely character, a hint of fresh white currants and a bready touch of autolysis.

    An enjoyably fresh, nuanced and even surprisingly serious effort for an entry-level NV fizz. To be honest, this is much more enjoyable and interesting than most NV Grande Marque Champagnes at this price point. This is not a grand vin, but definitely a well-made and classy bubbly that combines the brisk acidity - typical of English sparklers - with relatively ripe fruit flavors and subtle autolytic nuances. Perfectly enjoyable already now, but I can imagine the wine could benefit from a handful of extra years in a cellar. Priced according to its quality at £39 (approx. 45€).
    (91 points)

  • NV Hambledon Première Cuvée - United Kingdom, England, Hampshire (7.11.2025)
    A Chardonnay-dominant blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Based on the 2017 vintage with barrel-aged reserve wines. Aged approximately 7 years on the lees, disgorged on 4th of July, 2025. 12% alcohol, dosage 2,5 g/l.

    Pale-to-medium-deep lemon yellow color. Surprisingly toasty and complex nose with aromas of nuttiness, some baked apple tones, a little bit of buttered toast, light lemony citrus notes, a hint of bruised quince and a touch of chalky minerality. The wine feels crisp, high-strung and pretty much bone-dry on the palate with a medium body and brisk flavors of lemony citrus fruits and developed nutty tones, some floral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light sharp Granny Smith apple nuances, a hint of leesy yeast and an autolytic touch of toasted bread. The bright, high acidity lends a lot of freshness, structure and electric energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, lean and lengthy with a layered, mouth-puckering aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple notes, a little bit of bruised quince, light nutty and toasty tones, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of creaminess.

    A very crisp, structured and complex English sparkler with quite a bit of toasty richness counterpointed by brisk and very incisive acidity. This can easily hold a candle to a high-quality Champagne - although the overall feel is a bit lighter and leaner compared to your similarly styled Champagne. I guess this is more or less as dry and acid-driven as a young Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Champagne, but the flavor profile is that of a somewhat toasty flagship cuvée. Great stuff, if you favor nutty complexity over fruit and sense of weight in your fizzy wines. Great now, but most likely will continue to evolve and develop additional complexity with further aging. Not maybe that affordable at £69 (approx. 78€), but arguably manages to deliver for the price.
    (93 points)

After the fizzy wines I checked out some Chinese wines. I would’ve loved to taste a few more of them out of sheer interest, but there was a constant wall of people around the table and the guy pouring the wines seemed happier talking with these people instead of actually pouring wines to people who would’ve liked to taste the wines, so I skipped the rest. As I’m so incredibly slow at tasting (because I’m constantly taking notes at the same time - which was actually darn difficult here, as there were no tables where you could’ve put your glass down for a bit), I had better to do with my time than just queuing for several minutes just to get a quick tasting simple. Plus the wines I tasted were not that good, so I didn’t feel like I was going to miss out on anything special.

  • 2024 Mystic Island Winery Franc Blanc - China, Shandong, Penglai (7.11.2025)
    100% Cabernet Franc from a 14-yo vineyard in Qiu Shan valley. Gently crushed to minimize color extraction. 12,5% alcohol.

    Quite pale and neutral whitish-yellow color. The nose feels youthful, primary and quite candied with aromas of pear drops, some fruit jellies, a little bit of herby hops, light white peach nuances and a hint of something vaguely spicy. The wine feels youthful, round and somewhat off-dry on the palate with a medium body and quite mild flavors of ripe pear, some juicy appley notes, a little bit of something herby and a candied primary hint of fruit jellies. The low-ish acidity doesn't lend much sense of freshness or structure to the wine. The finish is soft and off-dry with a light, medium-long aftertaste of yellow apple, some ripe pear, light spicy nuances and a hint of white peach.

    A simple, soft and primary white wine. The only interesting thing here is that the wine is made from Cabernet Franc - you really can't taste it, though. This tastes like any other anonymous off-dry white wine. Quite a disappointment.
    (75 points)

  • 2021 Mystic Island Winery Chardonnay Yihu - China, Shandong, Penglai (7.11.2025)
    100% Chardonnay from vineyards in Qiu Shan valley. Fermented slowly in stainless steel tanks and used French oak barrels. 13% alcohol.

    Pale, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels rather vague and a bit understated with indistinct aromas of yellow fruits, a little bit of wood and a nutty hint of chopped almonds. The wine feels ripe, round and quite balanced but also somewhat vague and imprecise on the palate with a moderately full body and shapeless flavors of some yellow fruits, a little bit of white peach, light saline mineral notes and a hint of spice. The medium-plus acidity keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but it doesn't really lend much sense of structure. The slightly off-dry-ish finish is round, juicy and a bit mild with a medium-long aftertaste of vague white fruits and some spicy nuances.

    A very mediocre white wine. Not bad, not unbalanced, not disagreeable in any way. Just lacking definition, freshness and anything that would make it interesting or memorable. Definitely nothing to write home about.
    (78 points)
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Now, that is the proper way to start a trip! Nice write-up and I am looking forward to all of your notes. We stayed in Marylebone during our first trip to London a few years ago, at the Churchill, not too far from the Landmark, and also went to Hedonism Wines. Love that section of London!

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Shrine to the Vine have a great selection but the prices are enormously above what the wines they sell fetch elsewhere in the UK-it’s aimed at a ‘wine as activity’ single bottle market rather than at the ‘(ab)normal’ wine enthusiast. They make a good job of it.

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Gotcha! The price differential might be large compared to elsewhere in the UK, but based on what we saw in the wine shops on our trip, the prices seemed to be pretty similar everywhere. Is this just general London pricing, or are there any shops with more reasonable prices somewhere within, say, an hour’s walk from these shops?

As for London pricing, when I lived there in 2001-2010, it used to be the most expensive city in the world (one of the tipping reasons I decided to relocate to CA). Now, with the way the US has been going, I feel that this country is by far the most expensive in the world. Everything is insane right now and I don’t understand how anyone survives. But then I hear from my old British friends who’d come out and move back, that actually, London is STILL the most expensive. I didn’t really get that feeling last time I was there in 2023, but I didn’t really go to Hedonism either. Which is in itself crazy, as I’ve been wanting to check that place out forever.

Look forward to the rest!

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don’t worry, on my first visit to hedonism back in 2012 the wines were wildly overpriced. in most capital cities these days the pricing feels ambitious especially for those shops with overtly curated selections.

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Did @ToddFrench send you some Berserker uniform of some kind?

Classic recency bias. It’s nowhere near the most expensive country in the world.

The sad thing is that shops where one walks in and buys wine are becoming as rare as they are expensive, most people buy mail order and few merchants have retail premises, which is why Hedonism is very useful in spite of the expense-they offer a huge selection online of which some is well priced. Lea and Sandeman’s various branches are good. Huntsworth in Kensington High Street is well worth a look, but generally all good retail selections come at a considerable premium. BBR is nearby and also worth a visit.

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Great stuff Otto, looks and sounds like a lot of fun! I went to this event once with my wife, many years ago: we had a really great time and I especially remember the people we were lucky enough to meet: Anthony Barton, Warren Winiarski, Emmanuel Cruse and Michael Broadbent, amongst others. As for the wines, it was very interesting but rather hard work!
Looking forward to reading your impressions!

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Wish you’d given us notice you were coming. We could have arranged something at 67 pall mall for you.

Re shops, I’d echo Tom’s vote for Lea & Sandeman. Handfords in South Ken and Jeroboams have a few interesting wines in their shops too.

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I’m not sure the old-style Berserker t-shirt fits well with Decanter’s Fine Wine Encounter, particularly when seeing the photos of the facility above!

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Does anyone else feel this is like an 80’s tv show where you get to the end of the season, and then you get “To Be Continued” and have to wait all summer to find out if the A-Team manages to escape from Colonel Decker?

Looking forward to all your notes on this event!

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“I aint gettin on no plane drinking concord, fool”

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Time for an upgrade! :clap:

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Open to ideas!!!