Doesn’t sound much different from the archaic alcohol laws we still have in Finland!
It would’ve been fun to check out some of those heurigen, but we were on a rather tight schedule, so maybe next time!
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Heurigen are great, and the largest concentration is in the Grinzing area in the northeast of Vienna. Fall/harvest time would be the best time to check them out.
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Hooray - another Otto travelogue! Plenty of fun reading in store. I really take a lot of vicarious pleasure reading them, because they’re well-written, if somewhat…er…long…(!) especially since they are always about places I haven’t been to, not in a wine context at least. I look forward to the next episode!
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I’ve got a reputation to uphold.
True - this is also how we know it’s you and not a random bot imitating your style!
Actually, I should congratulate you - you’re writing this less than a month after your trip! That must be a new record.
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Nah, I’ve always prioritized these travelogues; I start writing them as soon as I get back home, while working my backlog of older tastings at the same time.
The travelogue to France last year came a bit later only because I had a three-week vacation in Japan right after our small tour de France!
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thanks for fast tracking them and as always, great write ups, fun drifts and look forward to the next posts here 
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Looks like some serious hardware on those horizontal tanks! What are the large white couplers coming out? Only thing I can imagine is that the tanks are somehow pressurized?
Day 2 cont’d - be warned, a long read ahead!
From Wieninger, Vienna, we drove straight to the village of Mautern an der Donau - a small hamlet on the southern bank of Danube, immediately across the river from the town of Stein and the city of Krems. Both Krems and Stein on the northern bank belong to the wine region of Kremstal, but on the southern bank the Wachau wine region extends a little bit further east from the mountainous valley, making Mautern the last eastern outpost of Wachau before the vineyards change to Kremstal on the southern bank as well.
Our reason to be here was naturally Weingut Nikolaihof - the odd bird who have always stood their ground on the southern bank of Danube, farming mostly cooler, north-facing vineyards in a region that is normally known for their steep and visually imposing, south-facing vineyards on the northern banks of Danube.
The views from the parking lot to the north. Danube flows behind those houses, and the hills further away are the terraced Kremstal vineyards that rise above the town of Stein, across the river.
Originally we were a bit iffy whether we should go to Nikolaihof or not - when the wines are on their best, they are stunning, but several of us had had somewhat uneven experiences with their wines, many of them showing that musty “Nikolaihof funk” that very few have been fans of. However, one of our group told me that if there was one producer in Wachau he’d love to visit, it would be Nikolaihof - so who am I to say no to him? I asked the winery for a visit and very quickly we got a green light from the winery. And in retrospect, I’m more than glad we went there! This was definitely one of the most memorable visits of our trip.
We were welcomed by Christine Saahs, the radiant matriarch of the Saahs family who runs the Nikolaihof estate. As befits such a historical estate, she began showing us the huge, centenarian linden tree (that was planted in 1908 to celebrate the 60th birthday of the emperor Franz Josef), the Agapitus chapel and the Weinstube tavern that the family runs for a few days a week from mid-spring to mid-autumn.
The huge linden tree that dominates the Nikolaihof courtyard.
Although the winery has been run the way as we know it only since 1971, the Nikolaihof estate has been in the Saahs family since the late 19th century. However, the history of this place goes much, much further - technically Nikolaihof can be regarded as the oldest winery in Austria that has been in more or less continuous operation for the past millennia or two.
The old Agapitus chapel, originally built almost 1000 years ago.
- Originally there was a Roman fortress known as Favianis (or Favianae) where Mautern is located today. Some of the foundations of the estate building are actually built on the ancient Roman walls dating back to 63 AD. Also the oldest part of the wine cellar, which was built by the Romans as well, dates back to the 4th century. However, even before the Romans appeared in the region, the Celts had already been living there for a long time, farming land and cultivating vines. In all likelihood the people who lived in Favianis also farmed vines and made wine.
- In around 470 AD, Italian Saint Severinus of Noricum came to Favianis and retreated to the “vine hill” (Burgum ad vineas, or Weingebirge in German - the first documented mention of a specific vine site in Austria) for prayer and stayed in the fortress for some while.
- In 777 AD, the old roman fortress was gifted to the Kremsmünster abbey in celebration of their foundation.
- In 985 AD, the ownership was moved to the monastery St. Nikola of Passau, marking the origins of the Nikolaihof (“The house of Nikola”) name.
- The Agapitus chapel, which still stands on the Nikolaihof courtyard, was built by the Augustiner Chorherren of the St. Nikola monastery between the 11th and 12th centuries on the ruins of the ancient Christian basilica that dated back to the Roman times. The other parts of the Nikolaihof courtyard were built a bit later and most of the extant courtyard dates back to the 14th century.
- The 1803 Reichsdeputationshauptschluss secularized the Nikolaihof monastery, meaning that the monastery was dissolved and the property was annexed to the local secular principality. About a century later, in 1894, Anton and Anna Saahs acquired the run-down Nikolaihof estate and its lands - originally for their country retreat, but soon they moved in to live there year-round. At that time the lands were used for mixed farming and vineyards were only a small part of what they produced.
- The Saahs had to cede most of the Nikolaihof estate to the Nazis before WWII and after the war the estate - as well as the whole Niederösterreich - was under Russian occupation until 1955. It wasn’t until 1960 when the Saahs family were able to reacquire their old estate - and that same year Nikolaus Saahs Sr. died. His son, Nikolaus Saahs Jr. inherited the estate and decided to focus entirely on winemaking. However, after purchasing the estate back, the family was basically penniless, so they couldn’t afford any modern winemaking equipment, or pesticides or other chemicals. Fortunately they still had their cellars full of ancient oak casks and a gigantic, almost 400 years old wooden press that was carved out from a single elm tree trunk and weighing two tons, with which they could continue on making wine from the estate vineyards.
- When Christine Saahs (from the family that runs the nearby Geyerhof estate) married into the family in 1971, she began introducing biodynamic farming with the aid of their family friend, who was also an anthrosophical doctor. Switching to biodynamic viticulture and wine production this early means that Nikolaihof was among the first strictly biodynamic wine producers in the world - probably the second one, after the Alsatian Domaine Meyer, who began farming according to biodynamic principles in 1969. However, as the certificating body Demeter was reluctant on certifing alcohol products, Nikolaihof acquired their Demeter certificate only in the 1990’s - yet still they were the first Austrian wine producer to be Demeter certified.
Going down the steep (and dangerously uneven) stone staircase down to the ancient cellars.
The tall, vaulted part of the cellar is “only” approximately 400 years old, while the low-ceiling part deeper down dates back to the Roman times. Even though the cellars are well below the surface of the nearby Danube - and the river has flooded many times! - the cellars have always remained safe from water.
The oldest cask in use still today: Elizabeth’s 7500-liter cask that was commissioned for her birth in 1973, making it more than 50 years old.
Christine showing us around in the older parts of the cellar.
The largest cask in the cellar, 12 000 liters.
While showing us around the cellars and the winery building, Christine Saahs told us how many of the other producers in Wachau used to think they were true oddball; while virtually all the other producers are located deep in the Wachau valley, farming south-facing vineyards in which grapes could reliably ripen, Nikolaihof was located in Mautern - basically already outside of the main valley and on the very edge of the wine region - and the Saahs were farming cooler north-facing vineyards on the southern side, where the grapes could struggle to ripen. However, we were also told that due to the more open geography around Mautern, the warmth from the Pannonian plains in the east reaches them earlier in the spring, meaning the spring can reach them even several weeks earlier compared to the cooler westernmost reaches of the Wachau valley.
She also told us that even some 10 years ago both the Austrian wine journalists and the other local wine producers thought they were doing outdated, tired and musty wines of yesteryear that had nothing to do with the award-winning rich, powerful and very fruit-forward wines of the Wachau that were always aiming for maximum ripeness; whereas Nikolaihof were happy making wines that never reached particularly high levels of potential alcohol - yet could attain sufficient ripeness. However, it seemed unbelievable how things turned overnight when in 2014 David Schildknecht of The Wine Advocate gave 100 points to Nikolaihof’s 1995 Vinothek Riesling - the first Austrian wine ever to score 100 points from The Wine Advocate. Suddenly people who had been making fun of Nikolaihof and their dull, old-timey wines - some even calling them “the lousiest winery in the region” - were now queuing behind their door, asking for samples of that 100-pointer wine and writing glowing reviews on their “traditional” and “idiosyncratic” wines!
Here’s the absolutely massive wooden press, both the largest and the oldest wine press in Austria - and perhaps even in the world. It was used for all production until 1988, when its use was phased out and it was replaced with more modern equipment. After about 20 years of well-earned time off, the press was recommissioned and is now used to make the super-traditional Baumpresse flagship bottlings.
Then, some key facts about the estate!
- The winery was operated by Nikolaus and Christine Saahs until 2005, when their son, Nikolaus “Niki” Saahs, took over. Niki Saahs was joined by his partner Katharina Salzgeber in 2021, and they’ve been running it together since.
- Nikolaihof had 6 hectares (15 acres) of vines when they began farming biodynamically in 1971. Today they have 22 hectares (55 acres) of vineyards. Of these, 18 hectares (45 acres) are on the southern bank, around Mautern; 4 hectares (10 acres) are across the river, belonging to the Kremstal wine region, encompassing some of the most respected vineyards of the region, such as 'Steiner Hund* and Grillenparz.
- Nikolaihof focuses exclusively on white grape varieties and they don’t grow any red grape varieties. 55% of their production is Riesling and 35% is Grüner Veltliner. The remaining 10% is split between Chardonnay, Muskateller, Neuburger and an interplanted Gemischter Satz vineyard.
- Most of the vineyards are several decades old and the oldest estate vineyards date back to 1947.
- The annual production is typically 70,000 liters, although the amount fluctuates depending on the vintage.
- The old oak fuders in their ancient cellars hold a total of 140,000 liters of wine, so they have about 2 years’ worth of production in the cellar at almost all the time. Although many wines are released only after ½ to 1 year of aging, a considerable portion of their wines are aged for extended periods of time, ranging from 3 years to more than 15 years - normally the wines are bottled only when they are considered to be “ready”.
- In addition to their normal range, Nikolaihof also produce a handful of no-SO2 natural wines under the Semicolon range.
- Although wine production is the main business of Nikolaihof, they also engage in some mixed farming that includes numerous apricot trees, vegetables and some other produce they use in their Weinstube tavern.
- Niki Saahs’ sister, Elisabeth, runs the Ad vineas b&b guesthouse; and Niki’s brother, Martin, makes biodynamic grape cosmetics under the dieNikolai name.
The wines we sampled.
- 2024 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner "Zwickl" - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
Basically this cuvée is identical to the Hefeabzug bottling, the only difference is that this is bottled unfiltered. 100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner from multiple parcels in Wachau. Fermented spontaneously. Aged on the lees in old, large oak casks. Bottled in July 2025. 12,5% alcohol, 1,5 g/l residual sugar and 5,3 g/l acidity.
Youthful, slightly hazy pale green color. The nose feels fresh and rather herby with almost pilsner-like aromas of noble hops along with notes of borderline under-ripe pear, a little bit of crunchy red apple, a sweeter hint of white peach and a floral touch of apple blossom. The wine feels rather ripe, youthful and a bit primary on the palate with a medium body and clean flavors of juicy pear, some herby tones, a little bit of stony minerality and salinity, light leesy nuances, a primary hint of grapey fruit and a floral touch of apple blossom. The quite high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is clean, fresh and juicy with a moderately long aftertaste of fresh pear, some ripe red apple, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of salinity and a herby hint of noble hops.
A nice, clean and fresh little Grüner Veltliner that is still slightly primary, but not so much it'd make the wine feel simple and anonymous. Although the wine is more or less the same wine as the Hefeabzug bottling, I enjoyed this bottling more than the 2023 Hefeabzug we tasted at the same time. Enjoyable and quite serious stuff for the price point. I can see the wine benefiting from at least a handful of additional years in a cellar. Priced according to its quality at 17,90€.
(90 points) - 2023 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner "Hefeabzug" - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
Basically this cuvée is identical to the Zwickl bottling, the only difference is that this is bottled filtered. 100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner from multiple parcels in Wachau. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 6 months on the lees (hence Hefeabzug, "yeast extraction) in old, large oak casks. 12,5% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 5,4 g/l acidity.
Clear, pale yellow-green color. The nose feels a bit closed with aromas of farty reduction, some hoppy pilsner-like herby tones, a little bit of almost under-ripe apple, light reductive notes of smoke and a hint of fresh pear. The wine feels lively, very slightly fizzy and rather closed - due to the reduction - with a medium body and dry, brisk flavors of green herbs and reductive smoke, some under-ripe appley tones, a little bit of fresh pear, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a skunky hint of hard-boiled eggs and a touch of salinity. Good, bright acidity. The finish is firm, lively and somewhat reduced with a dry and moderately long aftertaste of stony minerality, some flatulent notes of reduction, a little bit of green herbs, light fresh grapey notes, a hint of smoke and a touch of under-ripe pear.
This feels like this could be a fresh and impressive effort for an entry-level Grüner Veltliner, but the wine is so closed that it is mostly dominated by the smoky and skunky sulfurous notes of reduction that it is hard to get a good grasp of how the wine should be like. This bottle was considerably less expressive - and less impressive - than the 2024 Zwickl we tasted next to it. I'd say the wine calls for both quite a bit of additional aging and even after then some aeration to blow off the reduction. At the moment the wine feels a bit pricey for the quality at 17,90€, but most likely things will change once the wine gets rid of the reduction.
(85 points) - 2024 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Federspiel aus den Gärten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner mainly from Ried Im Weingebirge - one of the oldest documented lieux-dits in the world that was mentioned already in 511 - but also from other sites around the village of Mautern. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks. Bottled in July 2025. 12,5% alcohol, 2,3 g/l residual sugar and 5,0 g/l acidity.
Pale greenish color. The nose feels surprisingly ripe and juicy for a Federspiel with vibrant aromas of peachy fruit, some leesy tones, a little bit of crunchy Granny Smith apple, light herby notes, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of lemon rind. The wine feels silky, a bit round yet still enjoyably balanced on the palate with a medium body and clean flavors of fresh white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of ripe nectarine, light saline nuances, a hint of leesy character and a touch of honeyed richness. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of freshness to the wine, although the wine is admittedly a bit on the soft side. The finish is ripe and juicy with a long aftertaste of fresh white peach and youthful pear-driven primary fruit, some honeyed tones, a little bit of salinity, light stony mineral notes, a hint of zesty citrus fruits and a touch of leesy creaminess.
A nice, balanced and enjoyable Grüner Veltliner. Maybe a bit round and soft, but not overtly so. I was honestly quite surprised how ripe the wine felt for a Federspiel - apparently Nikolaihof has no problems attaining a good level of ripeness while keeping the level of alcohol in check! As the wine is still so very youthful, I think it needs at least a few years more before it starts to show its true colors. Maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 20,20€, but things might change as the wine ages and evolved.
(89 points) - 2020 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Federspiel aus den Gärten Late Bottled - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner mainly from Ried Im Weingebirge - one of the oldest documented lieux-dits in the world that was mentioned already in 511 - but also from other sites around the village of Mautern. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 4½ years. Bottled in May 2025. 12% alcohol, 1,2 g/l residual sugar and 5,3 g/l acidity.
Pale-to-medium deep greenish color. The nose feels relatively Riesling-like with aromas of peachy stone fruit, some ripe lemony notes, a little bit of petrolly diesel character, light stony mineral tones, a floral hint of apple blossom, a touch of crunchy white fruit and a whiff of savory spices. The wine fresh, firm and surprisingly Riesling-like also on the palate with a medium body and a tiniest bit of CO2 tingle. There are bright, dry flavors of stony minerality and fresh white peach, some kiwifruit, light spicy notes, a little bit of incisive steely character, a hint of petrol and a touch of zesty citrus fruits. Bright, structured acidity. The finish is fresh, mineral and quite Riesling-like with a long, dry aftertaste of crunchy white peach, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of kiwifruit, light spicy undertones, a hint of ripe lemony citrus fruits and a faint touch of petrol.
This was a completely different beast compared to the freshly released GV Federspiel aus den Gärten: the overall feel was not only drier, leaner and more mineral, but also the flavor profile had shifted considerably from the more obviously Grüner Veltliner qualities to a more Riesling-like expression. Of course some of that sense of freshness, structure and minerality has come from differences in vintage, but I suspect the prolonged élevage is the main reason why the wine doesn't simply feel like an older version of the young bottling, but instead a completely different wine. Despite the extended aging, the wine still comes across as very youthful and I can see it aging effortlessly for many years more. Solid value at 26,40€. Recommended.
(92 points) - 2012 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Steinterrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner from multiple parcels in Mautern, Wachau - namely Bischofpoint, Silberbichl and Zaum, picked at Federspiel ripeness. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 10½ years on the lees in an old, 6500-liter oak cask. Bottled in May 2023. 12,5% alcohol, 1,5 g/l residual sugar and 6,2 g/l acidity.
Youthful, quite pale yellow-green color. The nose feels a bit rustic and surprisingly Riesling-like with aromas of honeyed richness and white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of honeydew melon, light nuances of leathery funk, a hint of ripe red apple, a spicy touch of white peach and a fragrant whiff of apple blossom. The wine feels dry, firm and lively on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of steely minerality and spicy red apple, some honeyed tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light skunky notes of sulfurous reduction, a hint of peachy stone fruit and a touch of beeswax. The brisk, incisive acidity makes the wine feel very fresh, focused and structure-driven. The finish is crisp, lively and concentrated with a long, dry aftertaste of stony minerality, some honeyed tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light spicy notes of white pepper, a hint of lemony citrus fruit and a touch of leathery funk.
A very serious, sophisticated and structure-driven Grüner Veltliner that would easily pass for a Riesling in a blind tasting. With its cool, mineral core, pronounced acidity and dry, appley fruit accentuated by subtly evolved honeyed nuances, the wine doesn't really match the general idea of a Wachau Grüner Veltliner. When you take into account how the wine is almost 14 years old, it is remarkable how very youthful and precise the wine is, showing very little tertiary character. Easily the most impressive Grüner Veltliner in the Nikolaihof range, but also priced as such at 54,60€. Still the wine manages to deliver for the price!
(94 points) - 2019 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner from Ried Im Weingebirge - one of the oldest documented lieux-dits in the world that was mentioned already in 511. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 3½ years. 13,5% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar and 4,9 g/l acidity.
Pale-to-medium deep yellow color with lime-green highlights. The nose feels fragrant and slightly evolved with nuanced aromas of floral spice, some peachy tones, a little bit of beeswax, light cantaloupe notes, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of developed nuttiness. The wine feels broad and rather ripe yet still dry on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat evolved and conspicuously un-fruity flavors of woolly lanolin and earthy Nikolaihof funk, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of raw potato, light spicy nuances, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of juicy white fruit. The medium-to-moderately high acidity keeps the wine in balance, but doesn't lend that much sense of freshness or structure to it. The finish is dry, mineral and a bit evolved with a long aftertaste of wet rocks and wool socks, some mineral saline notes, a little bit of developed nuttiness, light earthy tones, a hint of raw potato and a touch of sweeter white fruit.
This seems a cuvée I always struggle with, at least a bit. With the first sniff the wine felt more fruity and expressive than I expected, but on the palate the wine was as non-fruity as the previous vintages of this same cuvée that I've tasted. There is very little fruit on the palate and the overall flavor profile is dominated by very mineral flavors along with that distinctive Nikolaihof funk, which is a weird combination of earthiness and nutty notes along with some weird raw potato notes. The wine isn't bad in any way, and its unique, very mineral expression is quite captivating in its own way, but this wine is more an academic curiosity than a wine for pleasure. Seeing how the wine shows some aged qualities, I find it hard to imagine the wine would change into something more expressive and fruity with additional aging - but then again, stranger things have happened. However, I don't doubt one bit that the wine can age and keep for many decades! Maybe not quite worth the 40,90€, though.
(88 points) - 2022 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Süssenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Grüner Veltliner from Ried Süssenberg, located immediately to the southwest from Mautern. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for approximately 3 years. 13% alcohol, 2,4 g/l residual sugar and 5,2 g/l acidity.
Intense lime-green color. The nose feels fresh and expressive with bright aromas of borderline under-ripe white peach, some lemon rind, light honeyed tones. The wine feels firm, dry and quite airy on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of honeydew melon and stony minerality, some herby notes reminiscent of noble hops, light saline notes, a little bit of zesty lemon, a hint of ripe Granny Smith apple and a touch of peppery spice. The high acidity lends good sense of balance, freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, lively and crunchy with a long, dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and saline minerality, some honeydew melon, light pilsner-like notes of hoppy herbal spice, a little bit of ripe Granny Smith apple, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of crunchy white peach.
A very sophisticated, fresh and harmonious Grüner Veltliner. Not a big or impactful wine, this feels more like a wine that is somewhere between a Riesling and Grüner Veltliner with its sleek body, mineral core and somewhat citrus-driven fruit profile. Although the wine is drinking pretty well right now, I'd say the overall feel is still super youthful and the wine would benefit from extended aging - and seeing how long the wine has been aged in oak before bottling, I can imagine the wine will continue to age effortlessly for years, if not decades. I'm quite sure the wine also benefits greatly from aeration, so this is definitely not a pop'n'pour white. A fine wine, priced according to its quality at 37,30€.
(93 points) - 2024 Nikolaihof Riesling Federspiel aus den Gärten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling mainly from from sites around the village of Mautern. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for half a year. Bottled in April 2025. 12% alcohol, 4 g/l residual sugar and 5,7 g/l acidity.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels open and youthful with vibrant aromas of lemon marmalade, some floral notes of apple blossom, light herby green notes, a little bit of grapey primary fruit and a hint of fresh nectarine. The wine feels fresh, steely and youthful with a medium body and clean flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some mineral notes of rock salt and wet gravel, a little bit of herby greenness, light primary notes of sweet pear, a hint of freshly pressed apple juice and a touch of fresh stone fruits. The high acidity lends a good amount of freshness, structure and energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, fresh and steely with a long, dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith apple, light steely and stony mineral notes, a little bit of ripe, spicy red apple, a floral hint of apple blossom and a primary touch of pear drops.
A wonderfully fresh, sleek and acid-driven Riesling with a good amount of brisk energy. The overall feel is clean and vibrant, but also still super youthful and quite primary in nature - at times the fruit profile is a bit dominated by the candied notes of pear and ripe grapey fruit. Most likely the wine just calls for a handful of extra years in a cellar, so that those candied fermentation flavors disappear. Fine stuff, although not showing its best yet. Promising, if anything. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages. Priced according to its quality at 22,50€.
(90 points) - 2020 Nikolaihof Riesling Klause - Austria, Niederösterreich (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling. Although the wine is labeled just as "Niederösterreich", I understood the grapes are sourced from a steep vineyard in Kremstal, right across the Danube river from the winery. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 4 years.
Slightly concentrated lemon-yellow color with a slightly youthful, subtly greenish hue. The nose feels quite complex and slightly evolved with sweet-toned aromas of peachy stone fruit, some petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of apple jam, light lemon marmalade tones, a hint of greengage, a touch of acacia honey and a whiff of beeswax. The wine feels quite ripe yet very crisp, lively and zippy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and intense, dry flavors of steely and saline minerality, some crunchy white peach, light lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of greengage, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of chalk dust. The brisk, racy acidity lends a great amount of freshness, structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is crisp, fresh and lively with a long, intense aftertaste of saline minerality, some lemon zest, light sharp Granny Smith apple notes, a little bit of chalky bitterness, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of petrolly character.
A fresh, nuanced and very attractive Riesling with tons of intensity and great sense of structure. Although showing some evolved nuances, the wine is still super youthful and quite nervous - I'd say the wine would benefit greatly from another 5 years of additional aging, but I'm sure it will continue to evolve and improve for at least a decade or two. Seems to call for some aeration if opened now. While a superb wine in its own right, I'm not sure if the wine is noticeably better than the other Nikolaihof Rieslings, and thus it feels quite pricey for the quality at 73,90€.
(93 points) - 2016 Nikolaihof Riesling Klause - Austria, Niederösterreich (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling. Although the wine is labeled just as "Niederösterreich", I understood the grapes are sourced from a steep vineyard in Kremstal, right across the Danube river from the winery. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 4 years. 12,5% alcohol, 5,5 g/l residual sugar and 6,6 g/l acidity.
Relatively pale yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant with seductive, sweet-toned aromas of lemon marmalade and honey, some apple jam, light evolved waxy notes, a little bit of petrol, a hint of greengage, a touch of developed creaminess and a fragrant whiff of orange blossom. The wine feels concentrated and rich yet still wonderfully firm on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of lemon marmalade and petrol, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of apple jam, light floral notes, developed hints of honeyed character and beeswax and a touch of wet rocks. The bright, concentrated acidity makes the wine feels very balanced, poised and structured. The finish is long, complex and juicy with a dry and quite intense aftertaste of steely minerality and tangy salinity, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of petrol, light apricot tones, a hint of apple jam and a touch of wet rocks.
A very complex, impressive and considerably mineral single-vineyard Riesling with tons of power, focus and depth of flavor. The 2020 vintage was already very impressive, but this wine really shows why these wines benefit from additional aging: only four years older, this wine was nevertheless and considerable jump up in quality - and the 2020 Klause was a very thrilling wine to begin with! This was not only one of the best Rieslings we had at Nikolaihof, this was also one of the most impressive wines on our week-long trip to Austria as well! An extraordinary wine that is starting to show some developed complexity now, at 10 years of age, but I don't doubt for a moment that the wine wouldn't continue to age and improve for yet another decade or two. Not particularly affordable at 73,90€, but arguably delivers for the price.
(95 points) - 2021 Nikolaihof Riesling Smaragd Vom Stein - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from Vom Stein, a parcel within Ried Silberbichl in the town of Mautern. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 4½ years. 13% alcohol, 3,3 g/l residual sugar and 6,5 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep honey-yellow color with youthful greenish highlights. The nose feels fragrant and sweet-toned with attractive aromas of honeyed richness and beeswax, some lemon marmalade, light apple jam tones, a little bit of youthful pear character, floral hints of apple blossoms and other white flowers and a petrolly touch of diesel. The wine feels steely, focused and a bit austere on the palate with a medium body and very dry flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some stony and saline mineral notes, a little bit of fresh peachy fruit, light floral tones, a hint of tart lemony fruit and a touch of petrol. The brisk, racy acidity makes the overall feel very fresh, precise and energetic. The finish is crisp, long and steely with a dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruit, some floral tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light petrol nuances, a hint of fresh nectarine and a mineral touch of wet rocks.
When people often say contemporary Smaragd Rieslings are way too big, ripe and clumsy, this wine serves as a perfect counterargument to that point: the wine does show ripeness in its honeyed nuances and peachy overtones, but the wine is remarkably airy and attractive for a Smaragd Riesling. Also quite lean and high-strung - austere, even. Very impressive stuff with tons of focus, sense of structure and wonderful intensity of fruit. Due to its rather long élevage, the wine is very accessible already now, but I can see it evolving and improving for so many years - maybe even decades - more. A very fine example of Wachau Riesling and a good purchase at 44,70€.
(94 points) - 2021 Nikolaihof Riesling Grillenparz - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from Ried Grillenparz, a steep and stony vineyard right above the village of Stein, making Nikolaihof one of the few producers producing single-vineyard wines from this particular site. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 3½ years. 13% alcohol, 3,1 g/l residual sugar and 7,6 g/l acidity.
Slightly evolved, medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels moderately ripe and nuanced yet still pretty crisp with bright aromas of honey and lemon marmalade, some petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of fresh peachy fruit, light sweeter nuances of ripe nectarine, a hint of herby greenness, a touch of quince jam and a floral whiff of apple blossom. The wine feels crisp, firm and racy on the palate with a medium body and intense, dry flavors of tart Granny Smith apple, some flatulent notes of reductive funk, a little bit of salinity and stony minerality, light petrolly tones, a hint of beeswax and a touch of fresh nectarine. The bracing acidity lends a tremendous amount of focus, freshness and structure to the wine. The youthful finish is fresh, crisp and lively with a long, brisk aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith apple, light skunky notes of sulfurous reduction, a little bit of nectarine, a hint of diesel and a touch of stony minerality.
A wonderfully brisk, zippy and electric Riesling - probably the raciest and most incisive wine we tasted at Nikolaihof. Very precise and acid-driven, but also still super youthful and even a bit closed - although not showing any obvious primary fruit flavors, the wine is nevertheless too young for its own good, as exhibited by the somewhat skunky notes of reduction and the overall tightly-coiled nature of the wine. Even then, this was one of the most impressive Rieslings we tasted at the domaine and I'm very sure this wine will start to sing at 10-15 years of age. If opened now, the wine really calls for a ton of air, so decanting is heartily recommended. Priced according to its quality at 51,90€.
(94 points) - 2019 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from the steep Ried Hund, arguably the most famous vineyard in Kremstal, located in the village of Stein. Fermented spontaneously, aged in old, large oak casks for 4½ years. 12,5% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar and 7,1 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep and slightly evolved yellow-green color. The nose feels very nuanced, characterful and attractive with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of heather honey and ripe apricot, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of Nikolaihof funk, light notes of beeswax, a hint of greengage, a herby touch of spicy noble hops and a whiff of stony minerality. The wine feels juicy, moderately ripe and quite impactful on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense, bone-dry flavors of peach and greengage, some salty notes, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruit, light herby tones, mineral hints of wet rocks and incisive steel and a touch of sharp Granny Smith apple. The bracing acidity lends a great amount of structure, freshness and electric energy to the wine. The finish is fresh, crisp and lively with an intense and persistent aftertaste of steely minerality and tangy salinity, some peachy tones, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light herbal notes reminiscent of noble hops, a hint of almost under-ripe pineapple and a touch of leesy creaminess.
A vibrant, intense and precise Riesling that shows some sense of concentration and complexity from the extended élevage in the oak, yet the wine is still very youthful, lean and tightly-coiled. Tons of layers and depth here, but it is going to take some time to unwind the wine. Very impressive stuff - tasting this wine, it becomes quite obvious why Ried Hund is such a revered site. It's very impressive how the wine can show considerable ripeness, yet at the same time it can come across as so fresh, poised and mineral. A stunner that will reward long aging; long aeration heartily recommended, if opened now. Not the most affordable Riesling at 55,50€, but delivers for the price.
(95 points) - 2008 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% Riesling made with the highest-quality grapes selected from the 2008 harvest, sourced from all the Nikolaihof parcels in Wachau. Fermented spontaneously, aged in an old 3500-liter oak cask for 15½ years, bottled once considered to be ready for bottling - that was in April 2024 for this vintage. 12% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 6,3 g/l acidity.
Somewhat evolved, medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels rich, sweet-toned and very complex with surprisingly fruit-forward aromas of honeyed richness and greengage, some cantaloupe, light evolved waxy tones, a little bit of perfumed floral character, a hint of stony minerality, a funky touch of bretty leather and a whiff of ripe citrus fruits. The wine feels evolved, complex and pretty mineral with a rather full body and intense flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some browned butter, a little bit of honey and lemon marmalade, light stony mineral notes, an oxidative hint of nuttiness and a bretty touch of waxy funk. The wine is very high in acidity and there seems to be even a tiniest bit of tannic grip on the gums, yet the wine feels quite open-knit and resolved, not too lean or high-strung. The finish is dry, crisp and complex with a remarkably long, multifaceted aftertaste of lemon marmalade and honeyed richness, some apple jam, light petrolly notes, a little bit of floral spice, mineral hints of wet rocks and tangy salinity and a faint touch of leathery funk.
A strikingly complex, characterful and remarkably harmonious Riesling that shows some evolved qualities and even a tiniest bit of oxidative complexity, yet the wine fails to come across as particularly mature - the fruit intensity and vibrancy is still that of a quite young wine, even though the other elements suggest that the wine has some age. Then there is also that subtle overtone of bretty funk, which reminds that the wine isn't a squeaky-clean contemporary Riesling, but instead a rustic, very old-school Riesling made in the way Wachau Riesling was made in the past. The wine might be an anachronism, but just like the idiosyncratic Gran Reservas of López de Heredia, this wine is a thrilling reminder how extraordinary the best wines have been in the past. The wine is definitely open for business right now, but there is still a little bit of room for additional development - most likely the wine will inch towards its absolute peak over the next 10-15 years, then it will probably stay there for an indefinite time; I really can't see a wine that has been aged oxidatively for so long falling apart anytime soon. This was the best Riesling we tasted on our trip to Austria, but unfortunately the wine is also priced as such at 130,50€.
(96 points) - 2015 Nikolaihof Riesling Im Weingebirge "Baumpresse" - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from Ried Im Weingebirge - one of the oldest documented lieux-dits in the world that was mentioned already in 511. The grapes are pressed using the humongous, traditional wood press that has been used at the Nikolaihof estate for some 400 years. Fermented spontaneously, aged in an old, 200-liter oak cask for 5½ years. Bottled in 2021, released in 2023. 12,5% alcohol, 5,6 g/l residual sugar and 6,0 g/l acidity.
Moderately intense yellow-green color. The nose feels open, sweet-toned and quite complex with aromas of ripe Fuji apple and greengage, some petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of fresh apricot, light lemon marmalade tones, a perfumed hint of wild flowers, a touch of stony minerality and a whiff of citrus oils. The wine feels firm, dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and moderately ripe flavors of lemony citrus fruits, salinity and stony minerality, some floral notes, a little bit of ripe greengage, light petrol tones, a hint of pink grapefruit and a faint touch of juicy grapey fruit. The high acidity makes the wine feel very balanced and structured, even if the wine isn't as incisive and racy as some Nikolaihof Rieslings, and there also seems to be a tiniest bit of some tannic tug on the gums as well. The finish is dry, crisp and lively with a long, acid-driven aftertaste of ripe lemony citrus fruits and sweeter greengage, some grapefruity notes, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light overtones of petrol, a hint of ripe grapey fruit and a touch of tangy salinity.
A very attractive, serious and promising Riesling that feels remarkably youthful for its age - at +10 years of age this wine seemed younger than some of the actually younger Nikolaihof Rieslings we tasted at the estate! While not as brisk and zippy as some other Rieslings, the wine does show impressive depth of flavor and ripeness of fruit, which doesn't translate to lack of freshness or structure. The wine is remarkably balanced and light on its feet for such a juicy and ripe Riesling. A superb wine, although getting a tad pricey for the quality at 87,70€. However, as the wine comes across as so youthful for its age, I can see it aging and improving effortlessly for a decade or two, so maybe the wine will be worth its salt with enough aging!
(94 points) - 2024 Nikolaihof Neuburger Aus den Gärten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Neuburger from multiple parcels in Wachau. Fermented spontaneously. Aged on the lees in old, large oak casks for a year. Bottled in September 2025. 12% alcohol, 2,2 g/l residual sugar and 4,7 g/l acidity.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful, fresh and lively with aromas of herby greenness and even some almost hoppy tones, a little bit of leesy yeast, light primary notes of pear drops and ripe grapey fruit, a hint of stony minerality, a touch of cantaloupe or honeydew melon and a whiff of waxy funk. The wine feels dry, crisp and lively with a medium body and fresh flavors of white peach and stony minerality, some appley tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light leesy notes of yeast, a hint of honeydew melon and a touch of pear drops. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine quite nicely in balance. The finish is dry, clean and crunchy with a medium-long aftertaste of steely minerality, some leesy tones, a little bit of honeydew melon, light primary notes of grapey fruit, a hint of ripe pear and a touch of salinity.
A nice, youthful and fresh little white. Perhaps a bit simple and harmless in the Nikolaihof range, but perfectly enjoyable as a solid all-rounder with lighter dishes. I'm sure the wine will gain some depth and complexity as it evolved a bit and loses those candied primary fruit flavors, which is why I recommend letting the wine age for another year or two. Pleasant stuff, but perhaps a bit expensive for the quality at 22,50€.
(87 points) - 2022 Nikolaihof Chardonnay Aus den Gärten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
100% biodynamically farmed Chardonnay from multiple parcels in Wachau. Fermented spontaneously. Aged on the lees in old, large oak casks. 12% alcohol, 4,3 g/l residual sugar and 6,5 g/l acidity.
Pale and rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels somewhat herby and quite neutral with aromas of stony minerality, some crunchy Granny Smith apple, light zesty notes of citrus fruits, a little bit of leesy yeast and a hint of white currant. The wine feels somewhat ripe but also somewhat neutral on the palate with a medium body, a tiniest bit of tingly CO2 and crunchy flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some ripe Granny Smith apple, a little bit of stony minerality, light herby nuances, a hint of leesy character and a touch of grapefruit. The high acidity makes the wine come across as fresh and structured. The finish is crisp, clean and a bit lean with a medium-to-moderately long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and tart Granny Smith apple, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of leesy yeast, light crunchy notes of whitecurrants, a hint of incisive steel and a touch of herby character.
A fresh, lean and zippy Chardonnay with a pretty linear overall feel. With its brisk, mineral flavor profile, the wine is somewhat reminiscent of a simple Chablis from the time when Chablis used to be fresh and zippy. As the wine feels pretty youthful and quite neutral, it isn't particularly complex or memorable; it is just a solid little everyday white with a mineral, palate-cleansing flavor profile. Maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 22,50€.
(86 points) - 2021 Nikolaihof Sissi Semicolon - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (13.4.2026)
A Gemischter Satz composed of various biodynamically farmed white varieties co-fermented spontaneously together. Vinified and bottled without any SO2. 11% alcohol.
Hazy pale straw-yellow color. The nose feels wild and appley with aromas of freshly pressed apple juice, some leathery funk, a little bit of herby greenness, light sweeter notes of apricot and a hint of unripe white fruit. The wine feels moderately wild on the palate with a light body and dry flavors of waxy funk, some apple core, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of honeydew melon, a hint of under-ripe green apple and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The brisk, high acidity makes the wine feel fresh and zippy, but the overall feel is lacking a bit in balance due to the modest body and light fruit department. The finish is dry, brisk and acid-driven with a somewhat wild aftertaste of under-ripe green apple, some herby tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light lifted notes of VA, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of bruised apple.
A somewhat generic natural wine that is borderline under-ripe and doesn't offer much stuffing to balance out the brisk acidity. The fruit department feels rather lean and it is lacking somewhat in depth. I feel the wine is nowhere near the quality of the regular Nikolaihof lineup and it feels quite expensive for the quality at 28€.
(82 points)
As the tasting was very extensive, we were beginning to run out of time. We had said we’d be checking into our Krems guesthouse by 8 pm, and it was getting dangerously close to 8 pm, so we called our guesthouse that we’ll be a tiny bit late, thanked Christine Saahs for the amazing visit and were on our way to Krems!
After checking in, some in our group were so tired that they just went straight to bed, but other of us were getting somewhat hungry, so we made a small hike to a local burger joint - one of the surprisingly few places that were open on Monday in Krems!
I went with a Flying Dutchman. Super delicious, but impossible to keep in one piece!
After our modest dinner, we returned back to our Gästehaus. Some retreated to their rooms at this point, but as one person noticed a fridge from which you could buy the wines produced by the family who owned the guesthouse, the few most persistent of our group decided to stay up for a bit longer and sample a few wines while discussing the events of the day and the plans for the next day.
What we found in the fridge.
- 2023 Weinkeller Aigner Grüner Veltliner 1773 Tradition - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (13.4.2026)
100% Grüner Veltliner from multiple vineyards around Krems. This is a special anniversary bottling to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the winery. 13% alcohol.
Pale yellow-green color. Quite ripe and very fruit-forward nose with aromas of greengage, some juicy notes of Golden Delicious apple and nashi pear, light white peach tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, a hint of zesty lemony citrus fruit, a touch of sweet green herbs and a whiff of cantaloupe. The wine feels quite firm and lively on the palate with a medium body and rather ripe flavors of pear and stony minerality, some sweeter notes of Golden Delicious apple and greengage, light honeyed undertones, a hint of fresh peach and a faint skunky touch of flatulent reduction. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is juicy, vibrant and quite long with a fruit-driven aftertaste of greengage and ripe white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of pear and Golden Delicious apple, light saline nuances, a hint of cantaloupe and a touch of honeyed richness.
A nice, fresh and balanced Grüner Veltliner that shows quite a bit of ripeness and richness, but at the same time quite a bit of freshness and structure to keep things interesting and in harmony. Definitely a more fruit-driven and accessible take on Grüner Veltliner compared to the spicier Kamptal and more mineral Wachau iterations of the variety, but a thoroughly enjoyable effort all the same. Although representing the lower tiers of the Aigner quality pyramid, this is still surprisingly enjoyable and serious effort. As the wine is still so super youthful, most likely it can evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more. Terrific value at just 13,50€.
(90 points) - 2023 Weinkeller Aigner Riesling Weinzierlberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (13.4.2026)
100% Riesling from Ried Weinzierlberg, located partly within the city of Krems. Bottled as Kremstal Reserve. 13% alcohol.
Youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful and fragrant with moderately sweet-toned aromas of lemon zest, some candied ginger, light white peach tones, a little bit of ripe Golden Delicious apple and a hint of primary grapey fruit. The wine feels expressive and quite fruit-forward with a medium-to-moderately full body and vibrant, dry-ish flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and stony minerality, some saline tones, a little bit of key lime marmalade, light grapefruity notes, a hint of juicy white peach and a primary touch of grapey fruit. The rather high acidity keeps the wine in balance, lending it enough sense of structure. The finish is ripe, vibrant and juicy with a rather long aftertaste of key lime marmalade and white peach, some ripe Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary notes of grapey fruit, a hint of tangy salinity and a pithy touch of grapefruit bitterness.
A nice, fresh and balanced Riesling from the ripe and fruit-forward end of the spectrum. Perhaps a bit too rich, round and fruity for people who are looking for lithe, mineral expressions of the variety, but I guess this speaks for people who love the richness of Alsace Grand Crus or the bolder GG Rieslings from warmer vintages. A solid, balanced and well-made expression, but maybe a tad forgettable due to its super youthful and fruit-driven nature. Priced more or less according to its quality at 17,90€.
(90 points)
After these wines the clock was going already past midnight, and we had an early morning coming up, so it was high time for the remainder of the group to retreat to sleep as well!
In the peace of my own room, finally.
11 Likes
Very happy to see that you got your own room and wouldn’t ruin anyone else’s sleep 
KIDDING (or am I?).
Anyways, I guess I’m lucky as I’ve yet to have a real dud from Nikolaihof and few have been really nice (Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein, the 2012 Steiner Hund opened by Len with us both present). A really interesting write-up and nice to see that generally speaking the quality is high and alcohol levels moderate.
1 Like
I’m 100% sure everybody else was as well! 
When it comes to Nikolaihof’s track record, I think that the Im Weingebirge Smaragd is the one that has shown that weird, musty Nikolaihof funk on a most consistent basis. I’ve had a few others as well, but in this lineup no other wine felt one bit off and they were perfectly on point.
However, I’ve heard from a few people that this has not been the case every time - the wines might not always be perfectly reliable, but when they are on, they are on.
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Impressive and fascinating to read, as usual. Well done!
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Day 3
Our residence in the Krems suburbs - Gästehaus Aigner - in the cold morning light. A terrific place, if a central location in Krems is not necessary!
After our light breakfast at our Gästehaus, we jumped into our two wino wagons and set off for our next winery visit. Our next destination was in Spitz, located deep in the Wachau valley, meaning we would need to drive the through vine-growing part of Wachau from one end to the other!
Not that this was a long drive, because it really wasn’t. From our Gästehaus it took us less than half an hour to Spitz, yet even then we could see almost all the Wachau vineyards along the way! Not entirely, though; there are still some vineyards further upstream from Spitz, but not much.
Making our way through Spitz. The steep, imposing hillside vineyard above the winery building is Ried Singerriedel.
In Spitz we had arranged a visit to Franz Hirtzberger. However, to our mild surprise, as we arrived (more or less on the minute) at the door of the centuries-old winery building - one of the oldest still operational of its kind in Wachau! - nobody was there. To our slightly greater surprise, nobody came even after we had waited for some 10-15 minutes. The door to the winery’s tasting room and offices was open, so we wandered in and hollered around a few times, yet no-one come. Nobody answered the phone, either. This was starting to get a bit weird!
The lights are on, but nobody’s home.
While we were wondering what should we do and asking the nearby construction workers if they had seen mr. Hirtzberger - or anybody else - around the winery, one guy from our group went walking around a bit further and managed to find one of Hirtzberger’s cellarhands from the vinification facilities located some way behind the main winery building. Finally, somebody!
Unfortunately I did not catch the cellarhand’s name, sorry! However, she explained that some of their equipment had broken and Franz Hirzberger had to go look for replacement parts (or a replacement?) which was the reason why he wasn’t there this morning, but she could take care of us without any problems. While she was taking us around, she told us she was originally from Germany and had been around the world, working in different wineries, so this stint at Hirtzberger - which was already quite long, several years - was definitely not her first.
Just to give us the lay of the land, she took us up to Singerriedel, the impressively steep vineyard located right behind and above the main winery building.
Making our way up the Singerriedel hillside. Take not of these vines growing through the terrace stones! I’ve never seen this kind of viticulture anywhere else.
From the vantage point over the town of Spitz she could show their different vineyards while also explaining some facts and tidbits of the winery and its history.
The views from Singerriedel over Spitz. The vineyards immediately behind the buildings on the right belong to Ried Axpoint, whereas the vineyards on the hills to the upper right corner belong to Ried Steinporz. Ried Setzberg is the small hillock on the center-right, while the vineyard-covered hill on the center and immediately next to the village of Spitz is the curiously named 1000-Eimerberg.
The old winery building (lower left corner) and the new winery facilities (gray buildings with orange roofs on the lower left). Axpoint stretches behind the new winery facilities and Steinporz rises behind it. The historical Rotes Tor (“red gate”) is covered by the Singerriedel hillside on the right.
- The Hirtzbergers have been farming vines in the town of Spitz since the late 1800’s. However, they farmed only a few hectares of terraced vineyards until Franz Hirtzberger took over the winery from his father Franz Hirtzberger in 1983. He began the work to identify the best vineyards around Spitz, and expand the vineyard holdings to these top sites.
- Not only did Franz Hirtzberger began to expand and focus on high quality; he also sought to aid in improving the quality of the whole Wachau valley. Thus, in 1983, Hirtzberger along with Josef Jamek, Franz Prager and Wilhelm Schwengler of (Domäne Wachau) founded Vinea Wachau, an association for promoting the wines and protecting the integrity of the Wachau region. This association is for winemakers who are willing to commit to the stringent quality requirements of the organization; in the beginning, there were just these four producers, but today the association has more than 200 members, covering some 85% of the Wachau vineyards.
- Franz Hirtzberger Sr. was not only a member in Vinea Wachau - he also worked as the president of the association for 24 years.
- Today the winery is run by Franz Hirtzberger, son of Franz Hirtzberger (starting to see a pattern here?). The domaine consists of approximately 25-30 hectares (60-75 acres) of vineyards, but they also purchase grapes from local contract farmers. 70% of the vineyards are located in Spitz, in the immediate vicinity of the winery and the oldest ones are over 60 years old.
- For a long time the vineyards were more or less evenly split over Grüner Veltliner (40%) and Riesling (40%) whilst the remaining 20% was split between other white varieties (Chardonnay, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, Muskateller). However, I understood that Grüner Veltliner has grown slightly to account for the majority of their holdings today.
- The wines were made in the historical winery building until the year 2000, when the new, modernized vinification facilities were built right behind the old main building.
- The style of Hirtzberger wines is very opulent and based on elevated ripeness, meaning that the grapes are picked quite late and in several tries, and often at least a few percent - in some vintages up to 10% - of the grapes are botrytized, adding to the sense of richness, body and flavor complexity of the wines. However, even if the wines may have a tiny botrytized component, they are fermented to dryness - always below 10 g/l and typically quite close to 0-1 g/l residual sugar.
- The grapes are sorted and vinified in the facility where everything works employing gravity. Typically Grüner Veltliner gets destemmed, as the stems could accentuate the spicy qualities of the variety too much while the potassium from the stems might deacidify the wines - something they are not looking for. However, Riesling is normally vinified in whole bunches, as the stems can add some wanted complexity and the higher-acid variety can handle the potassium from the stems better.
- The wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, although a portion of the Smaragd wines are aged in large (2000 to 5000 liters) acacia and oak casks.
While showing us around we were told that even though Hirtzbergers farm some Muskateller, they vinify it only when it shows restraint and finesse. Apparently Muskateller can get too exuberant in some vintages, and they find the variety too overpowering, so they’d rather not bottle under their own name. I found this quite curious, since Hirtzberger’s wines are known to be quite big and powerful - definitely not about restraint or finesse - so it was a bit amusing to hear that out of all the varieties they grow, Muskateller should show some restraint!
The tank room a few floors below the ground level; wines can be racked directly from the fermentation facilities on the above floor through the vents in the floor/ceiling.
The fuder hall.
The Kellerkatze - a tradition that is quite common in German-speaking wine regions, where a cat is used to signify the “best” cask. One lore says this tradition became from the fact that the wines that began fermenting quickly and vigorously would get quite warm, inviting the cellar cat to enjoy the warmth of the barrel in the otherwise cold cellars. Thus a cat loafing on a barrel would be a sign of a good, healthy fermentation.
As we descended from the steep vineyards down to the new vinification facilities, we went through several floors, including the reception area and where the grapes are crushed and pressed, the fermentation tank room, the rooms in which the stainless steel tanks and the old wood casks were, and finally the Schatzkammer, where they keep their old vintages.
The Schatzkammer.
The oldest wines in the Schatzkammer date back to the 1970’s, and almost all the wines from the 1980’s can still be found here.
When we were ready for the wine tasting, I expected us to backtrack our steps back up from the Schatzkammer, but instead our cellarhand-guide just opened one door and there we were, suddenly back at the main building of the winery! It can be pretty hard to keep track of the directions and your spatial location when you are inside buildings, especially while also going down several floors and walking underground, but apparently Hirtzberger’s winemaking facilities are built so that they are away from sight, beneath the village of Spitz, forming a continuous underground complex between the historic main building and the new winemaking building - even if these two buildings aren’t located that close to each other above ground!
Anyways, now for the wines we tasted!
- 2025 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Grüner Veltliner from vineyards surrounding the Rotes Tor, a historic gate and a small stretch of fortification wall on the hillside in Spitz, Wachau, harvested between 7th and 28th of October. The grapes are destemmed, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, subtly hazy pale green color. The nose feels fruity and quite primary with aromas of pear drops, some floral notes of apple blossom, light grapey notes, a little bit of stony minerality and a hint of spice. The wine feels youthful, fresh and very subtly prickly on the palate with a medium body and linear flavors of ripe pear, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of white pepper and other spices, light cantaloupe notes and a primary hint of grapey fruit. The rather high acidity keeps the wine quite nicely in balance, lending sufficient freshness and structure to the overall feel. The finish is quite crisp with a dry, medium-long aftertaste of peppery spice, some pear, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of cantaloupe, a primary hint of grapey fruit and a touch of floral character.
A nice, firm and balanced Grüner Veltliner from the somewhat linear end of the spectrum. The overall feel is still super primary and the wine is still quite dominated by the fermentation esters, making the wine taste of pear drops and sweet grapey fruit. I can imagine the wine will benefit greatly from another year or two of aging - in the hopes the wine would lose those sweet primary qualities. All in all, a balanced and well-made wine, but nothing special to write home about. Maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 26€.
(88 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Grüner Veltliner from vineyards surrounding the Rotes Tor, a historic gate and a small stretch of fortification wall on the hillside in Spitz, Wachau. The grapes were harvested on 15th, 20th and 24th of October, usually the latest trie contributing some 2-10% of botrytized grapes to the final blend. The grapes are destemmed, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large oak casks. 13,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep and quite intense yellow-green color. The nose feels rich and quite substantial with aromas of acacia honey, some ripe pear, light spicy peppery notes, a little bit of juicy peach and a hint of tangerine. I guess the botrytized component is what makes the difference between this wine and the Rotes Tor Federspiel. The wine feels rich, bold and rather ripe on the palate with a full body and juicy flavors of honeyed sweetness, some primary notes of pear drops, a little bit of apple jam, light peachy stone fruit notes, a hint of ripe grapey fruit and a touch of stony minerality. The medium-to-moderately high acidity manages to keep the wine in balance, but the difference between this and the more acid-driven Rotes Tor Federspiel is quite considerable. The finish is ripe, rich and juicy with bold, youthful flavors of honey, some peachy tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light stony mineral notes and a hint of tangerine.
A rather rich and voluminous Smaragd that is not that much about finesse; the overall feel is quite bold and powerful with emphasis on the quite ripe fruit flavors. However, the wine doesn't come across as heavy, too soft or excessively high in alcohol - there is no obvious sense of alcohol warmth, and the acidity feels sufficiently high to make the wine come across as balanced. Even then, I would've loved the wine to show a bit more acidity, as the wine still seemed a bit low in acidity compared to the slightly more acid-driven 2024 Smaragd Axpoint. A fine, if rather powerful wine, but maybe a tad expensive for the quality at 45€.
(90 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Grüner Veltliner from Axpoint, the steep vineyard immediately above the winery in Spitz. The grapes were harvested on 22th and 26th of October, usually the latter trie contributing some 2-10% of botrytized grapes to the final blend. The grapes are destemmed, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large oak casks. 13,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels youthful, ripe and quite powerful with aromas of sweet peachy fruit and acacia honey, some Fuji apple tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light spicy peppery notes and a hint of beeswax. The wine feels ripe, juicy and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a tiniest bit of CO2 tingle. The overall feel is quite full-bodied with vibrant flavors of honeyed richness, some stony minerality, a little bit of ripe pear, light crunchy notes of sweet Fuji apple, a hint of beeswax and a touch of juicy orange. The rather high acidity keeps the overall feel in balance and lends good sense of structure along with a little bit of freshness to the wine. The finish is dry, ripe and powerful with a long aftertaste of honeyed richness and stony minerality, some spicy tones, a little bit of ripe apricot, light saline nuances, a hint of fresh white peach and a youthful touch of sweet pear.
A rather big and concentrated but also surprisingly balanced and harmonious Grüner Veltliner from the ripe and powerful end of the spectrum. Although showing similar level of ripeness and maybe even a bit more concentration than the Rotes Tor Smaragd, I felt that it came across as a bit softer and weightier in overall style, whereas this Axpoint showed a bit more freshness, energy and structure in comparison. I wasn't particularly won over by the Rotes Tor version, but this Axpoint is a surprisingly fine and harmonious effort for such a big and ripe Grüner Veltliner. Showing good promise, I can imagine this wine will be singing on its 10th birthday. Not that affordable at 44€, but definitely delivers for the price.
(93 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Weissburgunder Smaragd - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Weissburgunder from multiple vineyards around the village of Spitz, Wachau. The grapes were harvested on 30th September, usually with a tiny bit of botrytized grapes. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large oak casks. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale greenish color. The nose feels a bit understated with light aromas of fresh red apple, some stony mineral notes, light floral nuances of orange blossom, a little bit of ripe white peach and a hint of citrus fruit. The wine feels ripe, clean and quite broad on the palate with a full body and youthful flavors of white peach, some apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light floral notes of orange blossom and a hint of salinity. The rather high acidity makes the wine feel relatively fresh and balanced for such a broad Pinot Blanc. The finish is rich, juicy and clean with a long, fruit-driven aftertaste of ripe white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of Golden Delicious apple, light floral nuances and a hint of honeydew melon.
A rather big and ripe yet also pretty fresh and harmonious example of the rather rare Smaragd-level Pinot Blanc. I'd say the wine feels a bit more linear and less nuanced than the Grüner Veltliner and Riesling bottlings of Hirtzberger, but at the same time it shows surprisingly good sense of freshness and balance for its size. It's hard to assess whether the wine is best for early consumption or if the wine is going to pick up some depth and complexity as it ages, but at least the wine feels like it wouldn't mind a few extra years in a cellar. Good stuff, but maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 44€.
(89 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Riesling from multiple vineyards around the village of Spitz, Wachau. The grapes were harvested on 1st, 3rd and 9th of October. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale whitish-green color. The nose feels moderately ripe but still very identifiable for a Riesling with aromas of zesty citrus fruits and apricot, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of primary grapey fruit, light floral nuances of apple blossom and a hint of pear drops. The wine feels clean, very youthful and quite primary on the palate with a medium body and bright but also somewhat dilute flavors of ripe grapey fruit and pear drops, some stony minerality, light zesty citrus fruits, a little bit of cantaloupe and a hint of sweet appley fruit. The medium-plus acidity feels quite modest for a Riesling, making the overall feel somewhat mellow and lacking zip. The finish is clean and a bit more brisk with a long, juicy aftertaste of stony minerality, some lemony citrus fruit notes, a little bit of cantaloupe, light sweet notes of ripe Fuji apple and a hint of grapey fruit.
A pleasant, fresh and very primary Riesling that comes across as a bit mild and soft for a wine clocking in at so modest level of alcohol. As Hirtzberger's Smaragd wines are known to be very ripe and substantial, I expected this wine to be more about freshness and less about ripeness, but this feels more or less as ripe as the Smaragd Rieslings, only showing less concentration and intensity. Leaves a somewhat lukewarm impression and feels a bit pricey for the quality at 26€.
(87 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Setzberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Riesling from Ried Setzberg in Spitz. The grapes were harvested on 7th and 14th of October, usually the latter trie contributing some 2-10% of botrytized grapes to the final blend. The grapes are pressed in whole bunches, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large acacia casks. 13% alcohol.
Intense yellow-green color. Surprisingly fragrant and even a bit atypical nose of ripe grapey fruit and almost Sauvignon Blanc-like blackcurrant leaves, some peachy tones, a little bit of juicy citrus fruit, light primary notes of pear drops and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels youthful and quite rich yet very focused on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of fresh apricot, light primary grapey tones, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The high acidity lends a good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is ripe yet firm and quite acid-driven with a long and intense aftertaste of juicy citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light stony mineral notes, a hint of fresh nectarine and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A very fresh, attractive and promising Smaragd Riesling with quite a bit of structure and flavor intensity. Although the wine is quite considerably ripe, as is typical of Hirtzberger's style, the wine doesn't come across as big and hefty as the other Hirtzberger Smaragd wines we tasted. The nose seemed maybe a bit atypical for a Riesling with its somewhat Sauvignon Blanc-ish blackcurrant leaf notes, but they only added to the complexity without distracting from the pleasure. Although the wine is quite enjoyable already now, the overall feel is still very youthful and at times quite primary; I would happily let the wine wait for another 5-10 years more, just to let it evolve and develop some developed complexity. A fine wine and for me, the best Riesling we tasted at Hirtzberger. Worth its price at 44€.
(92 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Riesling from Ried Hochrain, a sub-parcel within Ried Axpoint. The grapes were harvested on 8th and 20th of October, usually the latter trie contributing some 2-10% of botrytized grapes to the final blend. The grapes are pressed in whole bunches, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large acacia casks. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat concentrated greenish-yellow color. The nose feels very sweet, expressive and primary with aromas of pear drops, some floral notes of orange blossom and lilacs, a little bit of appley fruit, light grapey tones and a hint of lemon-scented hand soap. The wine feels broad, rich and voluminous on the palate with a full body and primary flavors of pear drops, some sweet tangerine, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of ripe grapey fruit, a hint of perfumed floral character and a touch of juicy honeydew melon. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels a bit soft and modest for a Riesling. The finish shows a bit more firmness and fresh acidity with a long, youthful aftertaste of ripe grapey fruit, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of savory spice, light floral notes, a hint of pear drops and a touch of honeyed richness.
A very ripe, substantial and noticeably primary Smaragd Riesling that comes across as heavier and softer compared to the other two Smaragd Rieslings we tasted at the estate. The level of acidity seemed to be the lowest in this bottling, making the wine come across as quite round and a bit clumsy. Furthermore, the fruit profile was by far the most primary here as the wine was heavily dominated by the candied fermentation esters, making the overall feel very grapey and rather anonymous with all the pear drop notes. The wine is very expressive and undeniably impressive in its own, blockbuster-ish way, but I found the other two cuvées (Setzberg and Steinporz) more balanced and interesting in comparison. The wine feels rather expensive for the quality at 55€.
(89 points) - 2024 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Steinporz - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (14.4.2026)
100% Riesling from Ried Steinporz in the village of Spitz, a site encompassing the vineyards behind the winery. The grapes were harvested on 8th and 9h of October, usually the latter trie contributing some 2-10% of botrytized grapes to the final blend. The grapes are pressed in whole bunches, then fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and large acacia casks. 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels spicy and slightly reductive with aromas of ripe peachy fruit, some sulfurous notes of skunky reduction, a little bit of ripe Golden Delicious apple, light crunchy white peach tones, a hint of fresh white peach and a perfumed touch of orange blossom. The wine feels ripe, quite concentrated and quite primary on the palate with a rather full body and bold flavors of ripe grapey fruit, some floral notes of apple blossom, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary nuances of pear drops, sweet hints of cantaloupe and Golden Delicious apple and a reductive touch of flinty smoke. The rather high acidity keeps the wine quite effortlessly in balance while lending it enough sense of structure to keep things in balance. The finish is ripe, rich and quite powerful with a rather fresh aftertaste of cantaloupe, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of Golden Delicious apple, light peachy tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a primary touch of ripe grapey fruit.
A big and powerful but also quite harmonious and promising Riesling with quite a bit of body and ripe fruit flavors. The overall feel is a tad too ripe and primary for my preference, but the wine does show quite a bit of promise for future development - whole not the most impressive wine at the moment, I can imagine this wine will continue to benefit from additional additional aging over the decade or so, or if not even longer. of the Rieslings we tasted at the domaine, i thought this was not quite on par with Smaragd Setzberg, but not that much far behind. Maybe still a bit pricey for the quality at 55€, though.
(91 points)
Tasting these wines, it became quite obvious to me how elevated ripeness - and often that tiny touch of botrytis - is definitely the hallmark of the Hirtzberger style. Certainly the wines were very impressive, but I have to admit that for me, many of them felt quite huge and even a bit clumsy; most of them had enough acidity to keep the overall feel balanced, but I felt many of the wines lacked the freshness and precision that I am always looking for in Austrian whites. Before the tasting I expected to enjoy the Federspiel bottlings more, but admittedly they came across as quite simple and underwhelming next to the Smaragd bottlings. Maybe they showed a bit more freshness and elegance, but not noticeably.
Ultimately my favorites in this lineup were not the biggest and most impactful wines, but those that combined enough restraint and elegance with the opulent fruit that defines the house style. The Axpoint bottling was quite an impressive example of Grüner Veltliner in its own right, and of the Rieslings, both the Setzberg and Steinporz showed good sense of promise, firm structures and nice, focused fruit. If I was looking for any ageworthy wines, at the moment these are the wines I’d bet my money on.
After we had tasted the wines, we made some purchases, thanked for the great tasting (and impressive views over the village!) and finally set our courses for the next winery visit!
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Climate change has helped some Riesling producers, but with Hirtzberger I think it’s becoming too much.
Fully agree with you here.
I was actually quite surprised how most Smaragd wines we tasted over our trip were surprisingly well-proportioned and clocking in at 13% to 13,5%, whereas in the recent past I’ve seen wines typically reaching 14% or even 14,5%. Things didn’t look as bad as I feared they would.
However, I concur that with these producers that have always aimed at maximizing ripeness, the climate change is definitely not on their side. I can understand the style’s appeal in the 1980’s, when making fully ripe Smaragds consistently every year was a feat in its own right. However, today, when every single producer can make as ripe Smaragd as they want to, and making a balanced Steinfeder can be a quite difficult task, things are looking very different.
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Thanks for this great travelogue Otto. I’m always looking forward to the updates!
Can I ask a couple of clarifications on Hirtzberger?
1/ When you say Riesling is normally vinified in whole bunches, I assume you’re referring to the pressing happening in whole bunches (as per your individual tasting notes for the wines). Is that right?
2/ If so, do you have any more info on the rationale? It seems a little counterintuitive to me that they’re using whole bunch pressing to add complexity from the stems and due to a reduced need to retain acidity
3/ Did they mention anything about their skin contact regimen for the GVs?
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Yes, this is my understanding. They’re not making any semi-carbonic fermentations and I believe skin contact is more or less the same as it is with most Riesling producers, ie. limited to a few hours before fermentation, at most up to a day.
From what I understood, they prefer to leave the stems, but they really can’t do it with Grüner Veltliner as their stems make too noticeable impact compared to Riesling’s stems, plus Grüner Veltliner can get too flabby as it is a lower-acid variety compared to Riesling. They told us they like the effect they get from the stems in Riesling and they felt that their Rieslings retain enough acidity and freshness even with the stems. But I guess it all boils down to stylistic choices and preferences.
Sorry, didn’t mention and didn’t remember to ask. I believe the process is pretty much the same here as in so many other places: GV is destemmed, Riesling is not; the grapes are crushed and left with the must for some hours; finally the grapes are pressed.
For example I can imagine they’d want to have some skin contact from the tries that contain botrytized grapes so that you just don’t get concentrated grape juice, but also some aromatic compounds and complexity from the botrytis itself.
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An Eimler was a traditional basket used for carrying grapes. So the estimated amount of fruit from the 1000 Eimlerberg were 1000 Eimlers.
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25 years ago, I was into lots of Austrian producers. 15 years ago, I was into fewer Austrian producers (about the time I dropped Hirtzberger, once among my favourites, with their new 14.5% wines). 15 years ago, the Austrian section of my cellar was about 60% Nikolaihof. Now, it’s about 90% Nikolaihof. I still really like some other producers as well. Like them how much exactly? About 10%. And the 90% Nikolaihof continues to feel just about right 
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