I met with Rotem Brakin, half of the dynamic duo principally responsible for the Lucien LeMoine cellars, on Monday of this week. We first discussed the challenges of the 2011 vintage; she felt that it was of the utmost importance that the timing and character of various growers last vineyard treatments, which should usually be about 6 weeks prior to harvest, either allowed the leaves to survive and thus continue to give life and energy to the grapes, or if timed improperly or ignored, caused a premature shut down in maturity, both phenolic and sugar. She mentioned that this was quite evident when you went up and down to cote and looked at the leaf health of neighboring parcels; those who managed well still had green leaves; those who didn’t already had autumnal colors.
We then started in on the 2010 wines that had finished their malos, as not all were complete; some were still even digesting some of their sugars…this protracted fermentation (more so malo than sugar) experience has become routine chez LeMoine, and they feel that this is invaluable to the character and quality of their wines. Of the whites tasted, they universally had a cool intensity about them; there was not an abundance of fat on the bones, nor were they marked by very bracing acidity either. In fact, it seemed as though the wines were really built around the core ‘matiere’, or baseline terroir driven extract in each climat; in each and every example, the wines had a brightness of character that always finished with a rising quality. Of particular wow intensity was the Mersault Perrieres. Also tasted: Murgers des Dents de Chien, NSG Terres Blanches, Chassagne Morgeot, Puligny Folatieres, Corton Charlie. Indeed, it is still relatively early in these wines evolutions, so impressions should be taken as such.
For the reds, this same character of elegant purity and ‘coolness’ was echoed. In both the Pommard Epenots and Grands Epenots, there was a suavity of tannin that served as fine rebuttals to the common association of Pommard as a rustic bruiser; the Grands Epenots was incredibly ‘aerien’, or airy and feather light. The perfume was stunning as well. It would serve as a fine example as to why Grands Epenots may be worthy of Grand Cru status. The NSG Vaucrains was wonderfully fine and floral, with a certain delicacy rarely encountered in NSG, none the less Vaucrains in particular. The Gevrey Cazetiers was simply fantastic; they have had the same source for Cazetiers for many years now, apparently from very old vines, and a particularly diligent and thorough grower. The vintage’s cool intensity was rendered quite evident in the Clos de la Roche. Often, chez LeMoine and others, Clos de la Roche has an explosive, full throttle, and ‘animal’ character; here, the wine was much more beauty than beast, with an elegance that I haven’t found too often chez LeMoine in this cuvee. The Echezeaux was hypnotic in its floral aromas, with a completeness of feminine grace, with supporting masculine structure rising in its finish. The Mazis, again often of beasty intensity, was utterly profound in its power and grace, all finesse. The Charmes Chambertin was lovely (I wrote ‘joli’ or pretty) and fresh, with great length. The Clos de Beze was liquefied Zen beauty, amazing amazingly intense and complete in its fruit and mineral profile, yet feather light. The Bonnes Mares was pure silk, reverberating for a long long while…
I came away from the tasting delighted with the character of the 2010s. The ‘lightness of being’ and purity in this collection at this point in their evolution was profoundly beautiful, an experience that has become the standard for my visits there.
Man oh man, when it’s good, it’s good…
![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
ps-also tasted in red: Volnay Caillerets, Estournelles St Jacques, Vosne Suchots, Chambolle Amoureuses, Clos St Denis.
Robert,
What did you think of the suchets?
Dan
The Suchots seemed a bit chunky and disjointed at this stage. There’s still another long phase of elevage to go, so I withheld judgement on this one…
I dunno, Robert. Maybe things have changed drastically since the 2007 vintage, but if not then using “finesse and elegance” and Lemoine in the same sentence makes me scratch my head. Granted; I never tasted his white wines, but the reds seemed extremely worked to me.
Only tasted 04s, and they were just too ripe and lacking in freshness. I have heard that 08 and post vintages are much more defined and fresh but I will be a doubter until I am offered something mindblowingly different to what I have experienced.
Exactly what I was thinking. I’m going to crack open a 2002 Volnay Caillerets tonight to see where it’s at though.
The 07 Gaudchots was fantastic last year.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people have strong opinions about wines that they just plainly don’t know; it reeks of being self servingly ideological. I’d never peg the wines as being ideal for old school purists, but how often people have an idea that they are some kind of monstrously overwrought frankenstein is just preposterous. Continue to shadow box, gentlemen. I suppose that the high praise of Tanzer, Schildknecht, Meadows, and Galloni for every vintage since 2005 is just plain quackery in your eyes. In the end, in vino veritas.
The reason people are surprised at your description of the wines as being finessed is that at least at a certain point in time they were not finesse-driven wines. Most of my experience with the negociant comes from the 2002 vintage and for my subjective tastes those wines were not finessed at all. No idealogy there, just opinion based on experience. Ive heard many reports (including yours) that that points to a change in house style in recent years.
Just curious, do you work with leMoine?
Well then, I suppose that their energies would be better served in seeking out the more recent vintages to taste for themselves, rather than continue to rehash their impressions of other vintages and somehow insist, in spite of the reports from all sorts of folks, that ‘it just can’t be’.
Robert, just curious, do you work proffesionally with leMoine?
Indeed. I’ve supported the wines since the 05 vintage. In visiting about 40 different ‘top tier’ domaines/producers in Burgundy per year since that time, the wines have consistently been of the most profoundly moving wine experiences of any that i’ve experienced, and it really does seem as though they are only getting better.
Which came first, the chicken or the egg?? No, I don’t shill the wines because I have something to gain; the wines are that compelling, and so I support them.
If they were at prices that reflect their respective qualities, then we may be able to taste more recent vintages!!
Wouldn’t that mean that if the wines are really good, that they would be pricier??
Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
I work in the trade and I am yet to be convinced…
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I am here: Google Maps
Many great posts Robert - love the info - but you should have ITB somewhere then, it’s only fair…
I have ‘in zee bizzy’ at the bottom of my signature, i thought that in spite of being cute it was apparent…
You would also do well to be transparent about the producers your represent. That’s how most other importers/retailers on this board manage any potential conflicts of interest.
Agree 100%.
Up to '06 that is. Not interested in trying or buying them now in any case. And I have had dozens of his wines both through what I have previously bought and what I have tasted…
Don’t really like the whites much either…generally find them just too heavy handed plus some premox issues with the ones I have had ('02s and '04’s, not the '05’s though).
When in doubt, disclose.