Lets talk JURA...

[B_Buzzini]

Recently have become intrigued by the wines from Jura, although I have not yet had one, I’m very interested in “unique and freaky” stuff…and from what I’ve read about in the wines from Chateau Chalon and the Vin Jaune…their freakish oxidative, high acid, long age worthy style…it got my attention.

I have coming to try…2000 Jean Bourdy Chateau Chalon Vin Jaune, 2006 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge, and some 2006 Domaine de Montbourgeau “L’etoile” Jura Chardonnay/Savagnin.

What are your thoughts about Jura…producers, vintages, styles, etc…

[Cliff_Rosenberg]

I haven’t tried Bourdy’s Château Chalon. The Côtes du Jura blanc was lovely in 2005, rather tame compared to some Savagnins, esp. Puffeney’s – Bourdy’s is Chardonnay, if I’m not mistaken. Bourdy’s red reminds me of Gouges: it feels bulletproof, a bit blocky, but compelling. In whites, I love Macle’s Côtes du Jura and Montbourgeau, in a relatively restrained idiom. In red, I think Puffeney stands out, his Trousseau above all; but it’s all more than good.

[Theodore_Anderson]

I’ve had two that really stand out in my memory, very unique wines which play heavily on earth and acid rather than fruit and sugar. Hard to compare them to anything else I’ve ever had:

2005 Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Etoile (France, Jura, L’Etoile)
Attractive golden-yellow with a pronounced sherried nose. It reminds me of late season apple orchard visits, sitting amongst the fallen apples and leaves. Pears, apple cidery tones, caramel, hazelnuts, slightly sweet bouquet. On the palate, bone-dry cider, nuts, earthiness. The oxidation is rescued by razor-sharp acidity and intense(!) minerality that carries through the finish. This wine just oozes individuality and terroir.

2006 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois Les Berangères (France, Jura, Arbois)
Light cranberry color, very translucent. Cran-raspberry fruit on the nose with a beautiful earthiness. Lean and deceptive, this wine has some backbone. Nice acidity and minerality, the soil and gaminess trump the fruit for an engaging food wine.

[Zachary_Ross]

What Cliff said. Go crazy with the Puffeney Trousseau. His 2007 Pinot Noir is awesome as well, and really any of his wines, white or red, impress. Montbourgeau makes great wines across the board; I love, deeply, their Cuvée Savagnin, a terrific wine in the oxidative style. And definitely go for Overnoy/Houillon, if you can get the wines, which are greatly admired and often impossible to find.

Ganevat’s wines are good too, and Kermit Lynch now brings some of them to the West Coast, at Kermit prices. Tissot is nice as well, though less evenly or distinctively.

[Brian_Kennedy]

love ganevat. getting some 2009 cuvee julien tomorrow actually - crush in nyc just let me know that it arrived.

also had some 06 boudry rouge recently. thought it was really good and an amazing deal at $23. will go a long time! needs a good decant, and it took a good 4 hours for the fruit to come out. looks like its only available at a few stores in the states… judging by CT, looks like only a small number of cases are in the states right now? Only one other bottle has been logged into the system.

[David_K_o_l_i_n]

I’m working through a case of Bourdy Rouge 2005 and have a rouge 1955 (my birth year) standing in the queue

[Xavier_Lavoipierre]

The wines of the Jura are, to my palate, simply fantastic. They are unique, to say the least; like no other wines I’ve tried. Cliff’s descriptor of “bulletproof” is something I find particularly true of Vin Jaune – totally indestructible. Puffeney’s wines are amazing: try the Vin Jaune, Poulsard, and the Cuvée Sacha (an interesting blend of Savagnin and Chardonnay – Sacha, get it?). Tissot’s Crémant du Jura Indigène is a must try, and I totally agree with Theodore’s note on the 2005 Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Etoile – it’s stunningly good. I recently tried Michel Gahier’s 2004 Chardonnay (the Fauquette), and it’s impressive – my note says it’s not a wine for everyone, but it’s a wine everyone should try (which could be said of many Jura wines). I have the Gahier 2006 Les Crets waiting in the wings. Have fun exploring this fascinating appellation!

[Brad_S_w_a_l_l_o_w]

Berserker Mike M. and I got together Friday night and drank (among other strong contenders) the 2005 Puffeney Poulsard “M”, and we both thought it was the stand-out wine of the night. The light cranberry color of the wine is deceptive. The palate explodes with red strawberries and acidic backbone. It is wonderful wine now, but it will hold a while.

[Robert_Broder]

Like you, recently curious with no prior experience. Added a mixed case of 12 bottles (all white) to my cellar, including some vin jaune. Recently tried a sparkler-N.V. Philippe Bornard Cremant de Jura Blanc de Blancs. I thought it balanced, smooth and delicious.

[John_Kight]

@Theodore Anderson

Hard to compare them to anything else I’ve ever had

Well, with respect to the whites, it’s easy: sherry.

The reds, are a bit more difficult…maybe “slightly oxidized Borgogne”.

[mike.m]

@Brad S w a l l o w

Berserker Mike M. and I got together Friday night and drank (among other strong contenders) the 2005 Puffeney Poulsard “M”, and we both thought it was the stand-out wine of the night. The light cranberry color of the wine is deceptive. The palate explodes with red strawberries and acidic backbone. It is wonderful wine now, but it will hold a while.

The wine was showing great. Had Puffeney’s blanc most recently a few weeks ago at Ten Bells and it was very good as well.
Great producer to seek out.

[B_Buzzini]

For those who have had wines from Jura, and also have had wines from Kalin Cellars…would this be a close comparison?

And what about ox-ed white burgs? Why would they be off putting, and Jura wines not? Way more acid?

[H_Wallace_Jr]

@B. Buzzini

For those who have had wines from Jura, and also have had wines from Kalin Cellars…would this be a close comparison?

Not close. Can’t really think of anything (that is on the market) that comes stylistically close to things like Puffeney.

[Matt_Latuchie]

Was fortunate enough to try some of a 1966 Chateau Chalon that Kevin Shin brought to a lunch in DC a couple weeks ago. Here’s my note from CT:

• 1966 Henri Bouvret Château-Chalon - France, Jura, Château-Chalon (1/29/2011)
  Dark orange color with with white flowers, tangerine, marmalade and honey tones on the nose. Palate was remarkably fresh for a 44/45 year old wine! Started off with tones of crushed walnuts and almonds that mixed with vanilla bean, honey and dried florals. There was a slight sweetness in the background that gave the palate length and bit more depth too. Finish featured the same nuttiness from the initial attack, but this time it was a bit smokier. Very intriguing wine that I found quite enjoyable. (92 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

It was a great bottle to try, and was really impressed by the freshness of the palate.

[Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e]

@Theodore Anderson

2005 Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Etoile (France, Jura, L’Etoile)
Attractive golden-yellow with a pronounced sherried nose. It reminds me of late season apple orchard visits, sitting amongst the fallen apples and leaves. Pears, apple cidery tones, caramel, hazelnuts, slightly sweet bouquet. On the palate, bone-dry cider, nuts, earthiness. The oxidation is rescued by razor-sharp acidity and intense(!) minerality that carries through the finish. This wine just oozes individuality and terroir.

This wine is killa! Had it last year and could have slurped down the whole bottle. Bravo Theodore.

Let me vote for Overnoy as a producer to seek out with the wines currently being made by Emmanuel Houillon. Savagnin is really something in their hands.

[Francois_Audouze]

I have attended a big tasting in 2006. It is very long. i hope some of you find it interesting.


Tasting of 120 wines du Jura – introduction - the Côtes du Jura reds – a unique 1947
The tasting has been held by the restaurant of the hotel Castan in Besançon, due to Christophe Menozzi, the president of the association of sommelier of East of France, and due to family Bourdy who opened their cellar for a unique tasting of 120 different wines up to 1888. The three of them, father born in 1928 and two sons aged near fifty told us that they make this event once, but do not intend to do it again in this century.
They wanted that the press would be aware of the interest of the historical potential of these wines. Their cellar is unique. The property belongs to their family since 1400 something. It was a unique occasion to learn the history of these wines, that I have the chance to have explored more than many amateurs.
A prestigious sommelier, Olivier Poussier, best World Sommelier in 2000 will make a report in RVF la Revue de Vin de France. Some big buyers like Four Seasons Le Cinq (who made a huge command some days later), some people being in the world of Jura wines, and two big collectors, a Swiss and me.
We tasted wines for two joyful days, on the 9 and 10 May 2006. The great question was to decide how to split the wines in two days. To maintain our interest, each group was split in two equal parts. The youngest on day 1 and the oldest on day 2. We had to be good students on day 1, to have the privilege to drink the best on day 2. One of us had an early train. What a loss : he lost the best.
On my notes, the figures preceding the name of a wine are : day one or day two, and the position of the wine in the order of tasting, from 1 to 120. As we have tasted 19 reds on day one, it goes from 1 – 1 to 1 – 19. And as we began the second day with reds, if began from 2 – 64 to 2 – 79.
As I had to taste 120 wines, I decided to make direct comments, with no diplomacy. If I like, I say I like. If I do not like, I say I do not like. My comments do not describe, but give my impressions.
I have made three different subjects : the reds, the Côtes du Jura white, then the Vin Jaune and Chateau Chalon.
I say it in advance : during this tasting, I have “met” wines which largely deserve 100 Parker points.
If it is one of the conclusions of this tasting, it is a very important one.
1 - 1 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 2001 - «aspect» : a little troubled, slightly, red slightly brown - «nose» : very discrete, alcohol, pepper, prune - «taste» : direct, simple, nice length - «comment» : wine for dinner, rather nice, well, regional - «combinations» : fish with cream
1 - 2 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1998 - «aspect» : red already ruby, more clear - «nose» : nose more austere, more peach - «taste» : rather round, more joyful, peach with wine, has little raspberry. Lacks of some broadness - «comment» : a little dull - «combinations» : veal
1 - 3 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1997 - «aspect» : ruby affirmed, nice colour clear, nice - «nose» : more expressive, a little animal - «taste» : has slightly evolved, animal, very expressive, final a little bitter - «comment» : wine for lunch. I like this aspect very virile - «combinations» : côte de bœuf
1 - 4 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1994 - «aspect» : very clear. Already orange !! - «nose» : nose of old wine - «taste» : alcohol appears strongly. The wine has lost of its fruit. Evolved - «comment» : astonishing that it has already this effect of age - «combinations» : sweetbread
1 - 5 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1993 - «aspect» : red sustained slightly orange, nice ruby - «nose» : very strong, very nice, very representative - «taste» : already evolved, but it seems to me that it is the precise definition of Côtes du Jura. Dry grape. Nice length - «comment» : very nice wine - «combinations» : game with feathers
1 - 6 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1992 - «aspect» : clear, red of ruby pale, nice light - «nose» : corked (slightly) - «taste» : the cork has its influence. Wine heavy with meat. Very warm, very powerful - «comment» : what a shame ! - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 7 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1990 - «aspect» : clear, red intense but has a little tiled colour - «nose» : very nice nose intense. Nice. Very elegant - «taste» : combines airiness and complexity. Very balanced. Final harsh, griotte (black sherry) - «comment» : magnificent - «combinations» : asparagus and truffles
1 - 8 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1988 - «aspect» : already a little tiled - «nose» : cork - «taste» : influenced by the cork - «comment» : horrible - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 9 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1987 - «aspect» : ruby evolved. Nice colour - «nose» : discrete but expressive. Elégant - «taste» : I like this aspect evolved light. It pleases me. Very long in mouth - «comment» : very pleasant - «combinations» : red
meat.
1 - 10 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1986 - «aspect» : ruby ambered, nice evolution - «nose» : a wine a little advanced, warm. Slightly animal - «taste» : alcohol, powerful invading. Sun. It’s not really in the definition of Côtes du Jura - «comment» : pleases me less - «combinations» : bécasse au chou
1 - 11 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1985 - «aspect» : a little pale - «nose» : a little alcoholic, limited - «taste» : already very old, very evolved. Rather limited. Is saved by the final - «comment» : not very brillant - «combinations» : jarret de porc
1 - 12 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1983 - «aspect» : red sustained, nice colour - «nose» : very expressive, magnificent, very elegant. Bravo - «taste» : joyful. A little tired, but nice fruit. Globally very agreeable. - «comment» : Well - «combinations» : duck with sherrys
1 - 13 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1982 - «aspect» : nice colour. Slightly yellow - «nose» : a little animal - «taste» : the aspect animal disturbs. Evolved, limited. Alcohol. Final disagreeable - «comment» : not well - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 14 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1981 - «aspect» : nice colour, ruby yellow - «nose» : slightly evolved. Rather charming. Peach, mirabelle - «taste» : more evolved, but it is rather balanced. Small disturbance with this aspect animal noticeable on several millésimes - «comment» : wine interesting overall. I prefer it largely to the 1982 - «combinations» : lamb’s shoulder
1 - 15 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1979 - «aspect» : red a little tiled, ambered - «nose» : discrete. One feels the evolution - «taste» : it pleases me much. It is obviously a little limited, but it is so much integrated. Elegant in its limited structure. Strawberry - «comment» : it pleases me - «combinations» : foie gras poêlé, sweetbread
1 - 16 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1978 - «aspect» : very ambered, tiled - «nose» : very evolved, animal, tired, rancio, chocolate - «taste» : medicinal, meat - «combinations» : grilled skonk with Clacquesin
1 - 17 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1976 - «aspect» : pale but nice - «nose» : nice - «taste» : evolved, but it is nice. I like this aspect simplified, but expressive. Final in elegance and beauty - «combinations» : Olivier Poussier says poêlée de cèpes. I think of pied de porc
1 - 18 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1969 - «aspect» : colour of light Port wine - «nose» : very spicy, dense, nose interesting - «taste» : watery attack, seems rather not very integrated. Final not very agreeable, animal meaty - «comment» : not very agreeable - «combinations» : palourdes
1 - 19 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1967 - «aspect» : nice colour a little ambered - «nose» : strong agreeable - «taste» : agreeable, even if age is noticeable. Well structured, well integrated. Final very convenient, even if alcoholic and spicy - «comment» : agreeable, interesting - «combinations» : escalope panée, champignon, truffle
On the second day :
2 - 64 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1966 - «aspect» : very nice, a little red tea - «nose» : a little bitter, but pure - «taste» : attack very agreeable (after the breakfast !). Lack of consistance, short - «comment» : agreeable without more to say - «combinations» : red meat
2 - 65 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1964 - «aspect» : nice, sherry - «nose» : alcohol dominates, fruits in compote - «taste» : very agreeable taste of fruits with syrup, lack a little of body - «comment» : it is not what I am looking for
2 - 66 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1959 - «aspect» : very nice, much more red - «nose» : nice, expressive, largely more than the two preceeding ones - «taste» : wine much more expressive and long. Sherry in alcohol. Not very much of consistance anyway - «comment» : strongly agreeable
2 - 67 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1957 - «aspect» : ambered, slightly tiled - «nose» : animal - «taste» : bitter, then opens itself
2 - 68 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1956 - «aspect» : rather nice, yellow sherry - «nose» : animal - «taste» : more agreeable, drinkable - «comment» : not passionating anyway
2 - 69 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : red, endly ! - «nose» : animal anyway, to oxygenate - «taste» : the aspect animal, soap disturbs me too much - «comment» : it is the 1955 normal with three varieries
2 - 70 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : tea clear - «nose» : very agreeable - «taste» : this is wine! Agreeable, even if very light. Nice persistance, it is the taste du Jura, even if it is not very usual - «comment» : it is the pinot noir alone - this wine is largely better than the other 1955. Concluding try of a pure Pinot noir on the land of Arlay
2 - 71 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1953 - «aspect» : very nice, dense - «nose» : animal (not enough oxygene). Then it opens - «taste» : one feels that it is a great wine
2 - 72 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1952 - «aspect» : more clear, more pale - «nose» : light, sherry yellow - «taste» : not disagreeable. I like. Rather pleasant. Rather advanced, rather dried, but agreeable to drink - «comment» : balanced, very agreeable, good surprise
2 - 73 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1949 - «aspect» : is a little “passé” - «nose» : light cork - «taste» : fruits in compote - «comment» : no interest with this bottle
2 - 74 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1947 - «aspect» : nice colour, red grenat - «nose» : superbe, nose of a great wine, expressive - «taste» : this is good ! It is a wine ! - «comment» : top ! it had 14,2° by bottling ! I ranked it first of the reds. It is truly an immense red (I have put one in one of my dinners some weeks before. It was splendid and appreciated by the whole table) - «combinations» : gratin de pâtes et de champignons (probably said by Olivier Poussier)
2 - 75 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1945 - «aspect» : red nice golden - «nose» : slightly animal - «taste» : very agreeable, very round, very integrated. The 1947 is more noble. This one is very agreeable. Cool - «comment» : well. Less gastronomic
2 - 76 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1943 - «aspect» : magic - «nose» : has a little evolved - «taste» : very great. Good. Balanced, expressive, better than the 1945 - «comment» : very good, better than the 1945 (M. Bourdy father shares my opinion). I ranked it second of the reds
2 - 77 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1942 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : alcohol - «taste» : it helds very well. Surprising. It is very good, subtle - «comment» : very very good I ranked it third of the reds. The decade 1940 is largely better than the decade 50. The 47, 43 and 42 are exceptional
2 - 78 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1926 - «aspect» : incredible ! It is the more red and the more young of all (it is due to a set of very rare varieties which were used to make this wine, very peculiar. Some names of varities of grapes were unknown to me) - «nose» : slightly evolved - «taste» : a little tight, but one feels the potentiel. It enlarges in the glass. Nice acidity. Shows slightly that it has its age. Acidity of the red current - «comment» : tons of vines with unknown names. Nice testimony of a rare period of wine making
2 - 79 - Poulsard - 1915 - «aspect» : it is a Poulsard very clear, yellow. Who would say that it is a red , - «nose» : very nice - «taste» : very very agreeable, completely out of norm - «comment» : It is the first year when the grandfather of the two dirigents learned how to cut the vines. So, they kept this wine as a souvenir. It is very special, but very pleasant.
Note : it is obvious that I do not like so much the reds when they are young. But the oldest ones are immense. And the 1947 belongs to the top quality of what can be a great red.

Tasting of 120 wines du Jura – the Côtes du Jura whites

The description of the conditions of this event has been made in the message concerning the reds.

On my notes, the figures preceding the name of a wine are : day one or day two, and the position of the wine in the order of tasting, from 1 to 120.

during this tasting, I have “met” wines which deserve 100 Parker points.

If it is one of the conclusions of this tasting, it is a very important one.


1 - 20 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 2002 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : elegant, alcoholic - «taste» : agreeable and elegant, even if very not very complex. Rather light for a 100% Chardonnay - «comment» : not bad at all for a wine havig only one month in bottle - «combinations» : trout, pizza

1 - 21 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 2000 - «aspect» : more sustained - «nose» : alcoholic, nice, elegant - «taste» : nice, round, with galb, expressive, very agreeable, bravo - «comment» : it is very elegant - «combinations» : sweetbread, coquilles Saint-Jacques

1 - 22 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1999 - «aspect» : yellow elegant, clear but dense - «nose» : very elegant, expressive - «taste» : elegant, with race, even more nice than the 2000. It is very agreeable - «comment» : remarkable, elegant - «combinations» : langoustines

1 - 23 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1998 - «aspect» : nice colour which evokes the fatness - «nose» : elegant, discrete - «taste» : more simple, more accessible. Not bad, but has not the nobleness of 1999. Agreeable - «combinations» : sandre

1 - 24 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1997 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : very nice, very romantic, very expressive - «taste» : elegant. I like this style. Final a little limited. Agreeable on a whole - «comment» : the wine served is a little too warm - «combinations» : snails

1 - 25 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1996 - «aspect» : a little less clear - «nose» : very surprising. Immense, powerful. Citrus. Flowers white - «taste» : powerful, warm, expressive. Wine very agreeable to drink - «comment» : very agreeable. Will well age - «combinations» : chicken with cream

1 - 26 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1995 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : very intense, less coloured, very riesling when the 1996 was Sauvignon - «taste» : more strict and simplified, closed. Will reveal its personality more late. Is a little austere. Opens a little - «comment» : will well age - «combinations» : côte de porc

1 - 27 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1994 - «aspect» : nothing to criticise - «nose» : rather discrete and classical - «taste» : attack very elegant. Wine very agreeable to drink now - «comment» : less brilliant than the 1996 - «combinations» : salmon

1 - 28 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1993 - «aspect» : nothing to criticise - «nose» : nose mineral a little limited - «taste» : lacks a little of character. Convenient, but does not talk that much - «combinations» : cochonnaille

1 - 29 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1992 - «aspect» : colour more pronounced - «nose» : very expressive and greeting. Nice - «taste» : fat. Very agreeable, generous, expressive, very sweet - «comment» : very good wine - «combinations» : volaille (farm birds)

1 - 30 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1990 - «aspect» : pronounced - «nose» : elegant, pronounced, agreeable - «taste» : light, very elegant, very young, flows very well in mouth - «combinations» : turbot

1 - 31 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1989 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : powerful, alcoholic, nose of great wine - «taste» : a very great wine. It has everything for itself, full of race - «comment» : + + + bravo - «combinations» : every meal will work. Olivier Poussier says vol ,au vent. J.F. Bourdy prefers the 1990, but seriously, for me, the 1989 is the most agreeable

1 - 32 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1988 - «aspect» : more evolved - «nose» : more advanced, agreeable - «taste» : more simplified, but agreeable, because rounded. Will age well - «comment» : clearly better by the second try - «combinations» : sole meunière

1 - 33 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1987 - «aspect» : very dark, ambered - «nose» : nice nose, alcohol, mushroom - «taste» : very sympathetic. Has well integrated the effect of age. Very interesting, elegant - «combinations» : plate of mushrooms

1 - 34 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1986 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : discrete, slightly animal - «taste» : more common. One feels a wine evolved, but it does not say much more. Citron - «comment» : better by the second try, I appreciate it more after - «combinations» : veal

1 - 35 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1985 - «aspect» : very nice. Wine which does not appear too old - «nose» : very elegant, not with effect of age (slightly) - «taste» : agreeable, acidic, not too much of consistency, but it pleases me rather, even if it is a little more common - «combinations» : white meat

1 - 36 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1983 - «aspect» : very nice - «nose» : very nice, elegant - «taste» : nice, round, agreeable, complete. It is a very great wine, flowing well, wine of pleasure, without complication - «comment» : nice final, nice wine - «combinations» : homard

1 - 37 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1982 - «aspect» : more clear - «nose» : of wine young, acidic - «taste» : elegant and young. Nice acidity. Potential formidable and pleasant as it is now. Nice acidity - «comment» : remarkable - «combinations» : turbot

1 - 38 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1981 - «aspect» : more dark - «nose» : corked - «taste» : corked

1 - 39 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1979 - «aspect» : very coloured - «nose» : has a little animal, not very structured - «taste» : rather lean and flat - «comment» : without great interest, tired - «combinations» : nothing

1 - 40 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1978 - «aspect» : very pale, young - «nose» : discrete, elegant - «taste» : very agreeable but not flamboyant. Agreeable wine a little less dense than the 1982 - «comment» : very agreeable - «combinations» : liver of veal

1 - 41 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1975 - «aspect» : clear - «nose» : closed, discrete, agreeable - «taste» : acidity volatile, lack of expansion, but well balanced. In fact, rather agreeable if not explosif. Nice final - «comment» : not bad at all - «combinations» : palourdes farcies

1 - 63 - wine rosé - 1971 - «taste» : drunk by the dinner. A great curiosity as I adore. - «comment» : rosé Comte of Guichebourd (whose name results of the association of three names Comte of Voguë, of Laguiche and of Bourdy). This wine was produced for three millesimes, and disappeared

2 - 80 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1973 - «aspect» : nice yellow - «nose» : neutral - «taste» : the transition after the reds is difficult. Chewy heavily, fat - «comment» : in fact, agreeable

2 - 81 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1967 - «aspect» : nice golden - «nose» : walnuts, nice nose - «taste» : elegant, varied, subtle, good wine

2 - 82 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1966 - «aspect» : golden - «nose» : immense, the true définition of Côtes du Jura white - «taste» : It is great, it has structure. Elegance, finesse and airiness. - «comment» : I have put a cross on my list, to include it on may ranking

2 - 83 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1964 - «aspect» : more golden - «nose» : more closed, denotes an evolution - «taste» : very agreeable, more evolved. Is a little more easy and has little less nobleness

2 - 84 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1962 - «aspect» : gold clear - «nose» : sulfur, mouse - «taste» : has a little glycerin, yogourt. Is a little tired

2 - 85 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1959 - «aspect» : gold magnificent, very clear - «nose» : elegant - «taste» : wine absolutely perfect. Probably not very long, but it is great - «comment» : wine of an immense pleasure, I give it two crosses - «combinations» : sweetbread with yellow wine

2 - 86 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : yellow a little tired - «nose» : very subtle, signs of tiredness - «taste» : very subtle, rather advanced, a little disagreeable and salty in the final in mouth, but it tells many stories

2 - 87 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1953 - «aspect» : very nice - «nose» : nose very full of race - «taste» : famous, without complication, perfect, magnificent. Nice acidity of end of mouth. Will well age

2 - 88 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1952 - «aspect» : colour goldened very nice - «nose» : of an exceptional finesse. Nose immense - «taste» : superb, very nice, nice acidity very supporting the wine - «comment» : remarkable, I gave one cross

2 - 89 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1949 - «aspect» : gold very pure, nice - «nose» : pur !! - «taste» : magic, above everything. Finesse absolute. Integrated, structured, perfect with balance - «comment» : gorgeous. I gave three crosses, which makes it the second of all Côtes du Jura whites. It is a wine which is exemplar

2 - 90 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1947 - «aspect» : gold perfect - «nose» : slightly sulfured - «taste» : very scholar, it is the good school boy. More fruity, more strong, more alcoholic - «comment» : great wine, which is disadvantaged of coming after the 1949, but it is great

2 - 91 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1946 - «aspect» : very nice, dense - «nose» : spices, ‘clou of girofle’ - «taste» : excellent. Contrarily to the hierarchy of the millesimes, it is great, joyful, dense. It is a wine that I appreciate, fruity - «comment» : will well age more, very good - «combinations» : duck !

2 - 92 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1945 - «aspect» : colour more evolved, less nice - «nose» : more evolved - «taste» : not bad, not very gorgeous. One feels the great wine but has aged. It has a final of great nobleness. Powerful - «comment» : one feels the great wine. the final is great. the pleasure is a little more weak

2 - 93 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1942 - «aspect» : nice gold a little grey - «nose» : seductive, full of race, feminine, sexy - «taste» : magnificent of subtlety. It has everything all what one can wish. It is completely grandiose - «comment» : I gave three crosses, which puts it at the level of 1949

2 - 94 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1938 - «nose» : corked

2 - 95 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1937 - «aspect» : gold golden (if I may say so) magical - «nose» : elegance rare, sweety - «taste» : is a little liquorous, agreeable, less well structured. Light, pleasant, but atypical - «comment» : elegance, nice final well sincere, great

2 - 96 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1934 - «aspect» : nice golden - «nose» : alcohol, very nice, dense - «taste» : heavy, alcoholic, integrated, fruity, great but does not equal the 1942, because alcohol dominates too much - «comment» : very great wine, I gave it two crosses

2 - 97 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1929 - «aspect» : This one is recorked in 1983, avec original label. The gold is slightly grey - «nose» : very elegant, very young - «taste» : very elegant, subtle, light, is a little short. It has the souvenir of a great wine. Nice notes of flowers in the final - «comment» : it is a little too late, should have been drunk some years ago

2 - 98 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1911 - «aspect» : gold magnificent - «nose» : magnificent of youth - «taste» : gorgeous, magic, il has everything. A nice acidity citrus like. the final is slightly short - «comment» : this wine will last 150 years or more. It is exceptional. It is in the abslute top of the hierarchy of wines. I gave four crosses which makes it in fact the first (it is a 100 points Parker, largely)

2 - 99 - Côtes du Jura white, Bourdy - 1888 - «aspect» : colour magic, golden, slightly grey - «nose» : subtle - «taste» : magic, emotional, fat, alcoholic, very fruity, confitured, goes a little towards straw wine, a little liquorous, becomes more dry by oxugenation - «comment» : emotional, it is a wine which becomes more and more immense, even half a day after, when I sip the last drops …

Many people think of Chateau Chalon only. But these Cotes du Jura white deserve a real interest.

Tasting of 120 wines du Jura – the «Vin Jaune» and Chateau Chalon

The description of the conditions of this event has been made in the message concerning the reds.
On my notes, the figures preceding the name of a wine are : day one or day two, and the position of the wine in the order of tasting, from 1 to 120.
during this tasting, I have “met” wines which deserve 100 Parker points.
If it is one of the conclusions of this tasting, it is a very important one.
1 - 42 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1999 - «aspect» : yellow clear - «nose» : of glue that kids have, alcohol - «taste» : too much childish. Very strong in alcohol - «comment» : not to drink now, but will become great
1 - 43 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1998 - «aspect» : white - «nose» : alcohol - «taste» : more agreeable, more round - «comment» : not even developed
1 - 44 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1997 - «aspect» : slightly yellow. the previous ones were white - «nose» : has a little of citrus - «taste» : it gets round a little. Very Xérès as the others. Not rather typed - «comment» : the three are tight, look alike too much
1 - 45 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1996 - «aspect» : clear - «nose» : even young - «taste» : very alcohol, in mouth, it is a marc - «comment» : good pour the cooking - «combinations» : truffle
1 - 46 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1995 - «aspect» : clear - «nose» : convenient, alcohol, but has a little more than that - «taste» : impression of marc as the 1996, but more rounded - «comment» : more agreeable
1 - 47 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1994 - «aspect» : clear - «nose» : very different in nose, there is no more the aspect of marc - «taste» : it is much more integrated. We leave the aspect marc to get something more rounded. Lacks a little of power - «comment» : the terroir of Montausson is exceptional
1 - 48 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1993 - «aspect» : has little more citrus - «nose» : It begin to move, to live ! A friend taster says : advanced butter - «taste» : citrus. It is not very Chateau Chalon. Lacks in a way of consistency - «comment» : weak
1 - 49 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1992 - «aspect» : clear, has little of yellow - «nose» : more Chateau Chalon, nice - «taste» : marc comes back. Lack of broadness and of structure. Too much linear and alcoholic - «comment» : average
1 - 50 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1991 - «aspect» : citrus - «taste» : it is good, it is very well structured, it is very astringent but gets more round in the glass - «comment» : it will be interesting to see how it ages (there were not many bottles due to the very low temperatures in winter)
1 - 51 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1989 - «nose» : rather bitter, nut’s skin - «taste» : much more round in mouth. It is very agreeable. - «comment» : Less structure than the 1991, but it is pleasant to drink
1 - 52 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1988 - «nose» : nose agreeable, rather sweety - «taste» : well rounded, agreeable to drink, but astringent in final. Elegant, fine. - «combinations» : white meat
1 - 53 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1985 - «aspect» : from this year the colour begins to be more yellow than white - «nose» : hasa little of sulfur, like a disgusting smell (to nuance) - «taste» : virile, but round. Strong in alcohol. not very complicated, but imposes its strength - «comment» : very powerful, a bomb - «combinations» : not possible to match it, due to its strength
1 - 54 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1979 - «aspect» : very yellow gold - «nose» : has a little of sulphur, very personalised. This is a true Chateau Chalon - «taste» : very nice, very well integrated, very structured, very agreeable - «comment» : that, you drink ! - «combinations» : morilles
1 - 55 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1976 - «aspect» : yellow gold - «nose» : flattering, fruits candied - «taste» : very agreeable in mouth. Lacks of structure, but it is not bad. Rather light - «comment» : it’s not totally a Chateau Chalon - «combinations» : foie gras poêlé
1 - 56 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1975 - «nose» : cork - «taste» : corked
1 - 57 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1973 - «aspect» : nice colour not goldened - «nose» : nice nose - «taste» : it is nice, it is agreeable, very acidic. Final very rude, but I like. Long and fine - «comment» : great potentieal. A wine to wait - «combinations» : is a little difficult for cooking. Raviolis ?
1 - 58 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1969 - «aspect» : nicely golden - «nose» : alcohol dominates as in the younger - «taste» : What a charm ! This is elegant ! It is peppery, smoked, very caramel peppery - «combinations» : caviar
1 - 59 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1964 - «aspect» : gold - «nose» : citrus, elegant, complete; it talks !!! - «taste» : it’s not very complete. The acidity dominates. Citrus green, nice, very coloured in mouth, kaleidoscope - «comment» : has a little of everything - «combinations» : difficult for cooking
1 - 60 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1962 - «aspect» : is little ambered - «nose» : nose of morille - «taste» : sauce of morille. It is very nice. Monolithic, a little advanced. Nice length - «combinations» : morilles
1 - 61 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1959 - «aspect» : golden - «nose» : not very agreeable, a little evolved and alcohol - «taste» : round powerful, it lack anyway of something. A little destructured. Lack of finesse. a little of milk - «comment» : another bottle would be without doubt better
1 - 62 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1959 - «taste» : drunk by the dinner of the first day. the context is not the same - «comment» : aucune note prise – agreeable, a great wine
Second day, after the lunch.
2 - 100 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1958 - «aspect» : nice gold copper - «nose» : calm, agreeable, not offensive - «taste» : agreeable for the beginning of the second session after the lunch, because not very typed «Vin Jaune». I like rather well this wine.
2 - 101 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1957 - «aspect» : gold very nice - «nose» : very pure - «taste» : very good, nice acidity, very agreeable, nice - «comment» : very agreeable
2 - 102 - «Vin Jaune», Bourdy - 1956 - «aspect» : nice gold - «nose» : very agreeable, sweet - «taste» : final rather disagreeable, delivers not very much interest. Acidity intense - «comment» : it is a Chateau Chalon “playing” in the category «Vin Jaune», because the appellation has been refused
2 - 103 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : nice gold - «nose» : a little milky - «taste» : is not very Chateau Chalon. Agreeable, integrated, astringent final, much of woody dry - «comment» : I do not like too much (I have drunk some better of this year and of Bourdy)
2 - 104 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1954 - «aspect» : gold very intense - «nose» : a little milky too, a little strict - «taste» : agreeable, salty, coloured, expressive. Too much salty. It has anyway much character
2 - 105 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1953 - «aspect» : magnificent of balance, gold green very nice - «nose» : superb, nice - «taste» : magnificent, it is nice, and it is rather not very Chateau Chalon. Nice balance - «comment» : very elegant
2 - 106 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1952 - «aspect» : very gold - «nose» : nice nose - «taste» : magnificent. This one, it is a true Chateau Chalon, the first true of the serie. It is great, long, solid, square - «comment» : I have discussed for a long time about this concept of a “true” Chateau Chalon with Christian Bourdy, born in 1928, who swears only on the CC 1865 !
2 - 107 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1951 - «aspect» : nicely clear - «nose» : ‘clou of girofle’, spices - «taste» : a little austere, bitter, even if it is very Chateau Chalon. Lacks a little of ‘joie of vivre’. - «comment» : Olivier Poussier shouts : “it is a Tarragone !”
2 - 108 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1949 - «aspect» : magnificent - «nose» : of honey sweet, nice, magic - «taste» : magnificent mouth of skin of citrus green, What a great balance ! It is nice. the final is gorgeous - «comment» : Wine gorgeous, it has charactéristics common with the Chateau Chalon Clos des Logaudes 1864 that I have drunk some days before
2 - 109 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1948 - «aspect» : wine with original cork - gold discrete - «nose» : magnificent, but to let breathe - «taste» : very nice. It’s not flashy, but it is solid. It is a nice wine, a little tight in final, but very acceptable. A little austere
2 - 110 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1947 - «aspect» : gold fantastic - «nose» : it is the first which has the true nose of Chateau Chalon with its complexity and its nut - «taste» : the perfection absolute of Chateau Chalon. It is absolutely perfect and the length infinite - «comment» : Perfect I give it four crosses. We are at 99 or 100 points Parker
2 - 111 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1945 - «aspect» : gold dark more pronounced - «nose» : discrete, alcohol strong - «taste» : very nice, integrated, round joyful, but it is a deviated form of Chateau Chalon. - «comment» : Very agreeable, even if not archetypal
2 - 112 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1942 - «aspect» : very nice gold balanced - «nose» : very balanced, very nice, very seductive - «taste» : magnificent of balance, it is nice. Lacks a little of exuberance. It is anyway very balanced (lacks a little of madness) - «comment» : it is very nice. Final immense. At this stage, I rank 47/49/42
2 - 113 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1937 - «aspect» : gold a little troubled - «nose» : very discrete, calm, not a nose of Chateau Chalon - «taste» : more comfortable, a little politically correct, evokes a marc, but in sweet. Agreeable, but too much evolved
2 - 114 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1935 - «aspect» : gold a little grey - «nose» : supérieur - «taste» : magnificent, extraordinary balance, it is round, it is nice, final of dream - «comment» : it is a very nice wine. It must be said that this particular wine has spent eleven years in barrels (first reason, war, and second, forgotten) !!
2 - 115 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1934 - «aspect» : gold magnificent - «nose» : a refinement exceptional - «taste» : very fluid, looks simple, but has a complexity incredible. the ultimate form of refinement. There is alcohol - «comment» : I adore ! Jean François Bourdy prefers the 1934 to the 1947. I give two crosses because I prefer the 1947 today (some previous 1934 have been for me subjects of adoration).
2 - 116 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1929 - «aspect» : orange, has taken a little of grey clear - «nose» : true nose of Chateau Chalon - «taste» : it is magnificent, it is perfect, it is the true Chateau Chalon - «comment» : I adore, it is pure. I give three crosses
2 - 117 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1928 - «aspect» : gold neutral - «nose» : discrete - «taste» : sweet, seducing, gently round accomplished, without doubt too much sympathetic. What an alcohol ! - «comment» : magnificent, but rather archetypal. Very great, too much sweety. At this stage, I rank : 47/29/49/42/28
2 - 118 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1921 - «aspect» : orange, slightly troubled - «nose» : more austere, more strict - «taste» : pink grapefruit, discrete, subtle, refined, it is a true Chateau Chalon - «comment» : the 1928 is more seductive, but this one is more typed
2 - 119 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1911 - «aspect» : gold clear - «nose» : very marc, agreeable - «taste» : very astonishing, alcohol, it is simplified. It has alcohol, fruits oranges, it is simplified - «comment» : it is a wine of another planet. I had already drunk one which was clearly better. Nota : when it opens, it becomes more realistic and more great
2 - 120 - Chateau Chalon, Bourdy - 1895 - «aspect» : very nice gold, slightly tea, very nice colour - «nose» : magnificent, it is young, balanced, it has tea, fruits yellow - «taste» : magnificent, it is absolutely perfect. It has a roundness, an accomplishment and a youth. It is mad ! - «comment» : it is perfect. “it”, it is the absolute perfection. It is exceptional, it deserves more than 100 points Parker as it is so unreal.

I rank 1895/47/29/49/42/28/34/11.

What is to say after such a tasting of 120 wines? A great variation of wines according to the millesimes. Age gives a lot of charm. It is clear that these wines have an ability to age which is unique.
Olivier Poussier, who has a knowledge that I have not, but who had a little less experience on old wines, left Besançon, convinced of the immense qualities of these old Jura wines.
I am happy to have been able to taste together so many wines, which gives a unique perspective. Thank you to all the people who have organised this unique event.

Read my conclusion at that time :

We have the unique chance (us, consumers) that the Clavelin bottle is refused by USA. It will give us more chances to drink these treasures.

[David_K_o_l_i_n]

Breathtaking, François. Thanks

[Mike_Klein]

Francois:

I have several bottles of Macle and Bourdy Chateau Chalon in the clavelin bottle. They probably came in through the gray market but I was unaware the regulators had a problem with the bottle shape or size. On the other hand, perhaps you are just referring to a perceived lack of interest in Vin Jaune/Chateau Chalon in the U.S., in which case, nevermind me - I’m just slow on the uptake!

[Francois_Audouze]

I think that today Clavelins can go to U.S. but some years ago, the volume of 62.5 centilitres was not accepted at the U.S. customs.
This is why I said that it was good news for French amateurs. It was a joke in fact.

[Tim_York]

The Jura’s traditional oxidative style has both admirers and detractors. I count myself among the former but concede that I have only found a limited number of good food pairings for them.

There are now a number of producers making Jura wines in a non-oxidative style which still speak with a distinct local accent. I like the tangy and invigorating wines being made by good producers from Savagnin and also their excellent mineral Chardonnay, some of which has something of the Savagnin tang and presents an excellent QPR alternative to white Burgundy without the buttery and oaky exaggerations sometimes found on the Côte d’Or.

I have particularly enjoyed the non-oxidative wines from Domaine André et Mireille Tissot (current boss Stéphane Tissot), Domaine Labet (boss Alain Labet, whose son Julien has a separate estate, reportedly also good) and Jean Rijckaert (considered locally too Burgundian but I like the wines). I don’t know whether any of these make it States-side.

If you visit the area, don’t miss the Hôtel/Restaurant Jeunet at Arbois where a few years ago we found inventive cooking of local inspiration and a sommelier willing to serve Jura wines by the glass excellently chosen to complement perfectly each course.