On saturday a group of friends, sommeliers, journalists etc. came together at the estate Keller for the yearly „Jungweinprobe“. We tasted 2025 and 2024 Chardonnay&Spätburgunder. But first some information regarding the vintage 2025 by the estate Keller.
2025 - “On the Rediscovery of Great Sites”
It is a cherished tradition for us to taste the barrels of the most recent harvest together at the beginning of each year. You should have seen the shining eyes of Bella, Julia and Felix as they tasted the young Pinot and Riesling wines … Noble, multi-layered young wines with great character and beautifully integrated acidity - without a doubt one of the very best vintages since we took over the estate. And a wonderful confirmation for all of us in the family and the team that over the past 25 years we have made forward-looking and sustainable decisions that are now revealed in the glass. We look to the future with optimism and are excited about the years ahead.
The 2025 Vintage - As If Kissed by Abtserde
As a winegrower, you are always pleased when good water reserves from the previous year are present in the soil at the beginning of a new season. The nearly 700 millimeters of rainfall nature granted us in 2024 ensured that even very deep soil layers were supplied with water. This is not only beneficial for our vines, but also excellent for all other plants, shrubs and trees - and, of course, for our groundwater levels.
January and February 2025 continued in a wet pattern. More than 120 mm of rainfall meant that we were not infrequently"showered" during pruning. Pruning extended into April in 2025, and we were grateful that budbreak began somewhat later than in 2024.
The following months turned drier (only 100 mm of rainfall from March to June). In the first week of June, while Riesling and the Pinots were in bloom, substantial rainfall arrived along with a cool wind. This led to coulure and blossom loss flowers or small berries that failed to develop properly during or after flowering dropped off.
We observe this phenomenon every year in our Abtserde parcel. Due to the particularly high level of active limestone in the soil, leaf chlorosis (pale discoloration) regularly occurs there during flowering. This results in partial coulure, producing fewer but smaller and even more aromatic berries. In 2025, however, this phenomenon occurred across the board. The entire vintage was, in a sense, kissed by Abtserde.
After a dry second half of June and first half of July, with ideal growing conditions and little disease pressure, the water reserves were replenished once more at the end of July. Around 80 mm of rainfall over ten days left the vines in magnificent condition. Unfortunately, in Zellertal and in Westhofen in Morstein and Abtserde isolated hailstones also fell, further reducing what was already a small crop A picture-perfect August with pleasantly summery temperatures and very little rainfall allowed the grapes to ripen rapidly, and we were able to begin harvesting for sparkling wine in the final days of August: beautiful, loosely clustered grapes with excellent aromas and crisp acidity. We were beaming along with nature.
Fortunately, the sparkling harvest allowed us to closely monitor ripeness levels, as we continued almost without pause in the first week of September with the harvest of magnificent Pinot Noir grapes in Bürgel, Frauenberg, Morstein and finally Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott.
The Silvaner grapes smiled at us as well, and we were delighted to harvest particularly aromatic fruit in the Austernfels parcel in Neu-Bamber especially after the devastating frost there in 2024, alongside excellent quality in Kirchspiel and Steingrube.
By September 13, we had harvested all Chardonnay parcels in Steingrube, Rotenberg and Klosterstück. The grape quality was outstanding. Only in Klosterstück - due to hail damage - did we have to sort berry by berry, and yields were extremely small at just 10 hl per hectare.
During this phase of autumn, we were especially grateful for our large hand-harvesting team, some of whom have been with us for over 20 years. Supported by friends and the entire family, they ensure that only the very best fruit finds its way into the picking buckets.
For the third consecutive year, the Riesling grapes in Niersteiner Hipping and Pettenthal were magnificent: fully ripe fruit, delicate slate-driven exotic notes, and radiant acidity. We had never before experienced three consecutive vintages of such outstanding quality for dry wines in Nierstein since taking over the parcels from Franz Karl Schmitt in 2009.In Westhofen, we continued with energetic, beautifully flavored Scheurebe grapes that lifted our spirits at first sight. Kabinett fans will be especially pleased.
By mid-September, the Riesling harvest began in Westhofen and Dalsheim. Excellent parcels for our “von der Fels” were harvested in Kirchspiel, Abtserde, Frauenberg, Hubacker and Morstein. The very old vines surpassed themselves: the juices were intense, dense and complex, yet accompanied by beautifully vibrant acidity. Taking a generous sip directly from the press is particularly joyful in such moments.
After harvesting the old Rieslaner vines (we thought especially of our mother Hedi, who would have beamed at the sight of the finely botrytized berries — this will be a truly great year for it!), the entire team traveled to the Mosel to harvest the Schubertslay grapes on September 20 before the forecasted rain arrived.
When we arrived early in the morning, mist still clung to the slopes, but the sun quickly broke through, and we experienced a magnificent final harvest day with must weights between 90 and 95° Oechsle in Schubertslay. It does not get more beautiful than that. These were intense days that showed us what is possible with good preparation, excellent teamwork, and passion.
You never taste only the vintage in the glass you also taste the people whose hard work and dedication ensure that only the best grapes, harvested at the perfect moment, reach the press.
We gratefully and somewhat proudly celebrated the outstanding 2025 vintage with our entire team, marking the close of harvest with Julia’s legendary “Backes-Grumbeeren.”
Grande Cuvée No. 003 Sekt extra brut
This sparkling wine is based on 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 1.8g dosage. Clearly not a copy of french Champagne, instead it is „Keller unique“. It´s all about refinement&elegance, precision and density. Beautiful mouthfeeling and freshness at the end. Einfach nur gut!
SPÄTBURGUNDER
It was thrilling to taste the 2024 Keller Spätburgunder and to see the development or in general the journey of these wines. Felix Keller has truely the magic touch for Spätburgunder and Chardonnay. I am remembering how German Spätburgunder in general tasted 15-20 years ago, many, not all (!), were over-oaked with too much alcohol and lacked of finesse.
But now thanks to climate change, better skills of the winemakers (better understanding of the vineyards and soils) and with access to better barrels they taste such great. Regarding climate change it is fascinating to read that according to KP the Spätburgunder moved 400 km to the south and the climate is now like Burgundy in the middle or end of the 80s. In addition there is also a new generation of young winemakers with better training and different mind-set.
And the journey is of course not over, as we will see the impact of the new high-density planting (30.000 vines per hectare) and also access to better barrels (new barrel maker) by the Keller family.
2024 Westhofen (aus ersten Lagen)
Here we have a new baby by the Keller family. 30 years old vines in MORSTEIN. Remarkably balanced and with spice and refinement. Lovely entry-level Spätburgunder.
2024 Bürgel GG
For me, the best Bürgel ever. Such charming, elegant and balanced. BUY
2024 Frauenberg GG
Quite dense and spicy, but fair to say I found no access to it.
2024 Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott GG
WOW…..the best German Spätburgunder Í have ever tasted. Breathtaking complexity, depth&length and refinement. I love this Spätburgunder since I tasted it for the first time a couple of years ago and it is such satisfactory to watch the development of this wine over the years. And the journey still goes on with the impact of the high-density planting and new barrels. BUY
96-97/100 Meininger (famous german wine magazine)
(left, soil of Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott)
SYLVANER
2025 Sylvaner „Feuervogel“
I have to confess the switch from the reds to the „Feuervogel“ was too hard for me this time. I had to re-calibrate my palate, first. I found no access to the wine. Sorry.
Here some notes by the estate Keller: „The 2025er Feuervogel is a noble, dense, precise, herbs-spiced Sylvaner with delicate-smoky complexity. Limestone-spice pur! A truely great Sylvaner vintage.“
2025 Syvlaner „vom Austernfels“
Now I am ready. As always I love the purity&precision and salty minerality of this Sylvaner from Neu-Bamberg. 11, 5% and feaderlight, but with depth. BTW, if my memory is correct (?), the 25er shows a bit of playfulness which I didn`t noticed in the last vintages. In 2025 we have 450l. or 2 little barrels.
Sylvaner „Austernfels“ at Neu-Bamberg
CHARDONNAY
A few days before the tasting I spoke with a good friend about the upcoming „Jungweinprobe“ and I told him that for me one of the most important aspect of this tasting is to taste and observe the development/journey of the Chardonnays and Spätburgunder. It is such thrilling for me, as every vintage they are getting better and better.
„Riesling will always be King and Queen in Germany- but Chardonnay has great potential." Robert Dentice
Photo - courtesy of Kiwi Dan
2024 „Talfels
Until the vintage 2022 it was called „Alte Reben“ Réserve. Wonderful start into the Chardonnay section. Good density „Schmelz“ and energy.
2024 Steingrube Erste Lage
Everyone was talking about the „Klosterstück“ and „Rotenberg“ Chardonnay, but don`t underestimate the „Steingrube“. It has a remarkable minerality, spice, freshness, finesse and most notably a fine acidity (!). If my memory is correct also a bit of reduction. Impressive Chardonnay. It is based on old Pinot Gris vines which was changed „Umveredelung“ to Chardonnay in 2022.
2024 Klosterstück Erste Lage - Pfalz region
Surprisingly I found no access to this pur, austere, mineral Chablis-like Chardonnay on saturday. But let me quote my friend Kiwi Dan:
„ Tasting these wines was an incredible experience highlighting the terroir of these great German vineyards. In particular the contrast between Klosterstück and Rotenberg, with the limestone driven Klosterstück presenting a racy mineral and floral expression versus the clay driven Rotenberg with density and powerful fruit (while still retaining incredible acidity). The Vinification being the same was proof of the greatness of these sites - and while comparisons were made to Le Clos Chablis and Batard-Montrachet, these wines deserve to be talked about as great German sites in their own right.“
2024 Rotenberg Erste Lage
Oh la la…….how seductive. I surrender……….
What a density, creaminess and power. And like Kiwi Dan said „ while still retaining incredible acidity“. Gorgeous
RIESLING
The 25er Rieslings showed good extract, balance, power and good integrated acidity. Overall a remarkable flavor concentration in these Rieslings.
2025 von der Fels
Here we have the business card „Visitenkarte“ of the estate. Classic with its mineral elegance, flowers, herbs, spice and of course limestone. In addition with a good aging potential. 2016 is now lovely to drink. 2017 needs still 5-10 years nd 2018 needs 3 more years, as I opened these bottles 2-3 weeks ago.
2025 „In der Helde“ (Heldentürmchen) Erste Lage
New Riesling baby of the Keller family and a highlight of the “Jungweinprobe“ barrel tasting.
1.3ha monopol in Zellertal…..cool mineral „kühle Mineralität“ and with refinement „Feinheit“. Gorgeous mix.
At the moment not available due to the small amount, just 15 hl/ha and there was hail at Zellertal. Maybe a special offer for next Xmas?!
2025 Kirchspiel GG
Classic Kirchspiel, purity&clarity and limestone incl. flavors of herbs, lemon and flowers. Awesome
2025 Oberer Hubacker GG - Monopol-
Not much notes, but it was great too. Both, Kirchspiel+Hubacker GG are promising and should be on your shopping-list, if you want to buy 2025 Keller GGs.
2025 Hipping Reserve
In 2025 no GG, as it has 10g RS.
2025 Pettenthal GG
Quite agitated, nervous, so quite difficult to taste.
2025 Morstein GG
Classic Morstein, bombastic minerality.
2025 Abtserde GG
Like Pettenthal, very difficult to taste.
2025 G-Max
OM…..as always the most complete Riesling of the portfolio. 
2025 Keller Rieslaner Auslese
This Auslese (7,5%) is full of grace, finesse, lightness of being „Leichtigkeit des Seins“ and 
