On saturday a group of Keller-friends had the luck and great honour to be inviited for the annual barrel-tasting at the estate. In all these years this „Jahrgangsweinprobe“ was the highlight of the wine year, but this year it topped everything so far, as it was thrilling to taste new wines from the son Felix, the first sparkling wines, the first Chardonnay and the best Sylvaner I have ever tasted.
Again the estate Keller demonstrated why it is one of the Top estates in the world, as in every vintage they try to be better and push the boundaries. No standstill.
Vintage 2022: Nature is our boss
At the start of the year, we were already seriously short of rain. After a mild winter, between January and March just 80mm fell (double that would have been normal) and we had to invest time and hard work to cover the ground with compust, mulch and straw. This was to reduce evaporation especially in the steep slopes in Nierstein and in Schubertslay on the Mosel, where the summer sun can really burn, and to guarantee a sufficient supply of water and nutrients after a dry winter.
„Everything changes so that nothing changes“. This apposite saying by the italian writer Guiseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa came into my mind when I thought back to the first months of 2022. In the past, we had enough rain in winter to supply the needs of the vines. The soils were saturated; trees, shrubs and vines were fed troughout the year from these reserves. The last few years have tended to drier, so that a good store of water for the year ahead is now an exception. Therefore winegrowers have to consider how to react to Nature`s changing demands. As a family and with our team, we think hard every year as to how we can prepare the vineyards very specially for the growing cicle that lies ahead.
Fortunately, the 2022 season begun without any notable frost which could have threatened the young vines. In contrast to 2021, flowering took place in perfect weather in early June. Nevertheless it remained very dry. From May to the end of July, we barely had 60mm of rain, normally it rains this much in May alone. The dry, hot weather slowed development in the vineyards, Just as people would not want to climb a steep hill in record temperatues (without a water bottle), so in extreme weather conditions the vine pulls back dramatically on its photosynthetic activity, the stomata on the underside of the leaves close down and the vine goes into energy-saving mode: Nature`s brilliant means of self-protection.
August too, remained dry, with a few productive but exceptional showers that refreshed our vines in Hipping and Pettenthal. In this period the vines must have felt like a wanderer looking for a life-saving oasis in the desert. They suffered and we suffered with them.
Eventually on 7 and 8 September came the hoped-for rain, so important not just for our vines, but also for gardens, wood and meadows. At the same time it turned significantly cooler. Ripening slowed down because of the cooler temperatures, the must weights remained moderate, acidity stable. Patience and humility in the face of what Nature gives us is a very important key to making good wines, while a long vegetative period and cool autumn nights are particularly beneficial for Riesling.
Very occasionally, the rain led to hairline cracks in the skins of the Riesling-berries, which we kept a close eye on over the following weeks. You cań`t make great wine without some anxiety, you have to be willing to take some risks. You, dear wine friends can certainly imagine that we were not sure at this most sensitive moment in the rippening phase, when everything is decided, if the rain was too much of a good thing for the vines. In retrospect we are very happy and grateful for the rain, and we know that we made many good decisions.
Just as in 2015, the rain allowed the vines to breathe deeply and draw new strength. The bunches/grapes developped complex aromas, and, with the low temperatures, ripened slowly on the vine without the sugar levels going through the roof. We waited until 10 October to harvest our best parcels in Kirchspiel, Morstein and Abtserde. You can look forward to juicy, noble Rieslings with herbal complexity. Only the very small yields will not make the allocation of wine any easier.
For the crowning conclusion, there was a top-class Auslese from the Rieslaner vines in Silberberg and Frauenberg, which are up to 60 years old. After a harvest that lasted almost seven weeks, we were happy and proud when, on 12 october, the last box filled with grapes was brought into the winery.“
Vintage report by KP Keller
2019 Grand Cuvée Brut
The Grand Cuvée is based on 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot meunier. Made in used barrels. Superb on the palate with power „Druck“, purity, precision, clarity, finesse and KALK limestone. Classic Keller signature.
2018 Rosé Prestige Brut Nature
The Rosé is based on 95% Chardonnay from Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott and 5% Spätburgunder (added as red wine) from Bürgel. Only 1 barrel made with zero dosage. What a seductive perfume. Here again „Druck+Zug“ power on the palate, but in addition with a very tempting delicate red fruit incl. a huge underlying minerality. Looong finish. And a very fine mousseaux. SPLENDIDO
2021 Chardonnay Reserve du Fils
Planted in 2016. First vintage by Felix. Here we have a breathtaking Chardonnay and clearly a highlight of yesterday „Jungweinprobe“. Such mineral-driven, chalky, with density and what a length / presence on the palate. New benchmark in Germany.
2022 Sylvaner „vom Austernfels“
The best Sylvaner I have ever tasted“ Julia Harding/for Jancis Robinson (19/20).
This Sylvaner „vom Austernfels“ really flashed me. Rhyolite (volcanic) and limestone (derived from oyster fossils) soils. Only 0.2 ha near the border of the Nahe region, former Neu-Bamberg Schlossberg. More or less a new baby of the Keller family. Unfortunately not available at the estate or market. It clearly shows what is possible regarding Sylvaner when you have such special soils.
Here we have next-level Sylvaner. Such pure, salty and mineral. Like an ocean breeze. Definitely no room whatsoever for fruit-kitsch. 
2022 von der Fels
Based on 50% Kirchspiel, 30% Hubacker, 10% Morstein and 10% Abtserde. As you know a must-buy in every vintage, as it delivers Top quality for an affordable amount of money, around 20€.
2022 Kirchspiel GG
It was great and I loved the drive&kick, purity and minerality. Fair to say it seems that most prefered Hubacker in this vintage.
2022 Oberer Hubacker GG-Monopol
Clearly rounder and more accommodating than Kirchspiel. Impressive salty finish.
2022 Hipping GG
Shows a lot of finesse and very floral/herbal style
2022 Pettenthal GG
WOW…… I was speechless and no words can describe or catch this GG and this is okay. For me the best GG of the tasting. A monumental Riesling.
2022 Schubertslay GG -alte Reben- MOSEL
Holy cow, another spectacular Riesling. Clearly from the Mosel. I assume you will love it too, promised.
2022 Morstein GG
Very shy at the moment
2022 Abtserde GG
Classic Abtserde, full of elegance and such sublime. Very different in style than the rest of the GGs, as it shines through finesse or noblesse and not power. My second-favorite GG of the night. Fair to say I am an Abtserde-admirer.
2022 G-Max
Ethereal………for eternity. BALANCE is the key word.
Now to the reds. It was quite a challenging vintage 2021 for the reds, as in contrast to previous years the young generation like Felix Keller had to fight for ripeness. New experience. Bottom-line, it is a cool classic vintage for the reds.
2021 Bürgel GG
What a fascinating&bewitching Bürgel. It is such light at its feet and shows a lovely finesse. And the best, it offers tremendous drinking pleasure. I love it! BUY
2021 Frauenberg GG
Okay, here we have next level. Clearly shows more complexity and Miran Kegel is right, shows more layers than Bürgel (he was sitting next to me). And also more expression. I am quite curious about the development in the coming years.
2021 Spätburgunder Réserve du Fils
very shy at the moment
2021 Morstein GG „Felix“
Breathtaking texture, such velvety. In addition spice, a bit like 1001 night. AND elegance. Really fascinating how the german Spätburgunder/Pinot Noir developped in the last years, also thanks to climate change. I am remembering a couple of years ago KP told me that his grandfather was very (!) skeptical when he planted Spätburgunder vines, as the grandfather said this will never get ripe, „das wird doch nicht reif“.
