Florence and Amalfi hotel/ ideas

Doing Switzerland, Florence and Amalfi next summer. Have Switzerland pretty dialed in, but would love recs on Florence and Amalfi.

Ideally less than 1500 a night. Only caveat is that the room has to be able to accommodate 3 (2 adults, 1 young adult)

For Florence we were hoping to stay at the hotel we spent our honeymoon in, but appears it’s closed or possibly under different ownership. (It was called Via La Vedetta). Looked at St Regis and Westin (as I have some Marriott points to burn) but to accommodate 3 I’d have to spend several thousand on top of 500K points for the 4 nights + 1 free.

Also- I’ve never done Amalfi Coast before. We plan to spend 4-5 days in the area. Would you recommend sticking to one city or seeing a couple.

Thanks in advance!

Depends f you want to go to Capri or one of the islands, the you may want to overnight there. We stayed in Positano and pretty easy to ferry to Amalfi and bus up to Ravello for a day trip. Also bused up to Monteperuso (sp) for dinner. Ferried to Capri and several nights later ferried to Napoli for the return.

I really enjoyed the Il Tornabuoni hotel. They have some suites that work for 3 adults that are about 1350/night (the Decor Suite, two beds (i think 2 kings, but you should check that they aren’t queens, 500 Sq meters). Amazing location (even better than Westin/St Regis). A converted palazzo.

I would only go to Capri if you overnight ( I recently spent 4 nights there). Capri Town apartments is very basic but will fit you all in a small apartment with 2 bedrooms and a kitchenette (but no real table to eat at, other than the shared patio which is fabulous) for under 600 euros night.

Positano is great if you have strong knees - hundreds of steps each day.

Skip Sorrento.

I’ve been wanting to spend more time in Amalfi, only been there for an afternoon.

I would consider choosing either Amalfi or Positano (or Capri ) but skip a car. You can get from one Positano to Amalfi by ferry. It’s a gorgeous but challening road; if it’s raining go real slow - seemed like negative banking is some of the slippery spots.

Think of the Amalfi coast as small towns and villages, rather than cities. Sorrento the biggest place in the area, but not actually on the Amalfi Coast, just near to it. It’s also either very hilly, going inland, or the coast road which is flatter but gets very busy indeed. I’ll echo @Barry_L_i_p_t_o_n 's advice to skip the car. Driving is possible, but only for the gregarious yet calm / skilled, and ideally with plans heavily adjusted to take advantage of the car, which might take you away from the more normal tourist attractions.

for 4-5 days, it’s a no-brainer. One single location, and if you can’t find plenty of easy and interesting day trips, you’re not looking hard enough :wink:

Big choice will be whether you want to explore or relax.

For the latter, places like Capri or Ravello are fine choices, and allow you to relax in those places once the day-trippers depart. Ravello is certainly a most peaceful and relaxing place in mornings and evenings, be it in the central square, or finding one of the many beautiful places to look out over the wonderful view of the coast, and the slow criss-crossing of boats.

For exploring, somewhere on / near the coast road is ideal, and the SITA buses are good/frequent, and allied to the ferries, give great transport options. In addition, walking is a rather under-utilised experience here. with an amazing criss-cross of paths that used to allow locals (and their donkeys) to get around, but that they tend to use less now. The walks give wonderful views and also insight as you pass through tiny hamlets or past home-made shrines. Julian Tippett’s book in the sunflower series is invaluable if the walking appeals.

Options I’d suggest for convenience: Amalfi, as it’s a bus hub (and ferry stop); Praiano for somewhere a little quieter, but still on the coast road; Minori if you like flat ground, or Positano if you are happy that walking to the restaurant will generate an appetite. For organised day trips, L’Altracostiera in Amalfi have been there for decades, and as well as running day trips, they’re also a local accommodation agency and (IIRC) travel agency for locals to see the world. They’re good.

If you want fancy hotels, then Ravello / Amalfi offer the fancier ones, that should still come in under that budget. Personally I much prefer apartments, which I put down to having spent too many nights in hotels through work, so valuing the extra space and freedom, but also loving grazing local food etc. shops and a broader desire to embed in the culture.

As you’ll be there in summer, I’ll give a shout out to quirky Atrani, where houses are built into the large viaduct that towers over this coastal village. That also means its square is generally sheltered from the sun, making it an oasis of cool on a hot day. Also recommended if it’s still there is the fish restaurant A’Paranza, whose degustazione menu was an extensive lesson in the differnt seafood on the coast, and when we were absolutely full, their remarkable lemon dessert was so light and refreshing, we were still able to eat it. There’s a nice energetic 20min walk from the stairs to Amalfi’s duomo to Atrani (or a less appealing walk alongside the coast road)

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We enjoyed the Excelsior in Florence. Book a dinner or lunch in their rooftop restaurant.
There is an excellent restaurant at the top of Capri with a two-star restaurant. Also, you can book a small boat with a Capitan to take you to the uninhabited islands and grottos along the coast.

Villa La Vedetta is closed and I think it’s now a private residence . You could try Villa Cora similar or the Four Seasons

I’ll weigh in with a partially dissenting voice on having a car on the Amalfi coast. Particularly if you want to tour Pompeii or Herculaneum, both of which I highly recommend. It’s also useful for tooling around on your own schedule and getting to Amalfi from wherever you are coming from. But if you terrify easily while driving, ignore my advice - nothing as fun as turning a blind corner and seeing a tourist bus coming right at you. There are also some alternative routes from the coast road if you aren’t driving to towns on the coast

I stay in Naples if I want to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum. Herculaneum is in a Naples suburb, taxi or public transportation works for either.

Although not central, Grand Hotel Parker’s is a great hotel in Naples, newly refurbished. Just got back. Quoted 60 euros one way to Pompeii by taxi.

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He already said no to the Marriotts (st Regis and westin excelsior) due to costs.

Agree on the hotel however, they have given me amazing suite upgrades (on two special occasions). I have stays with the chain however).

I’d recommend one location on the Amalfi coast and then do day trips. Positano and Amalfi are probably best based on ferry availability for your first time. Positano is very crowded and lots of steps but we really enjoyed our stay at Hotel Covo. The location is perfect right on the water and a nice hotel. They will have rooms large enough to accomodate. Great rooftop pool and as long as you can deal with the steps a good location. Here is the website:
https://www.covodeisaraceni.it/

We’re going back to Amalfi coast next year with a group of 8 and staying 3 days at Hotel Don Alfonso 1890 and then 4 days in Priano at a villa. Both are good spots but will require a bit more coordination for day trips:

Florence:

There is an Autograph property in Florence. It’s a bit further out from the city center than the Westin but still a good location. We really enjoyed our stay there. Here is the property:

We were just in Florence last week and this time stayed at an Air BnB right in the city center. It’s about 100 feet from Piazza Republica and an incredible view of the Dumo. Postives are
Fantastic location, very large with 4 sleeping areas, excellent A.C, washing machine, full kitchen, very reasonable price $350 per night. Downsides are it needs updating badly. The beds are not great and it’s a bit beat up. My buddy and I were fine with it but our wives would have preferred a nice hotel. If your interested I’ll send you the link via PM.

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Our favorite place on the Amalfi Coast is Ravello and we’d recommend Palazzo Avino - beautiful place with suites that may accommodate 3. The restaurant is excellent and it’s a short walk to the famous gardens. We drove and I would recommend a cat - but as mentioned here the drive up to Ravello and along the car requires patience and skill. You can also drive over the mountain instead of along the coast.

I would not stay in Sorrento or even Positano unless you are staying at a luxe property - way too touristy.

We also love staying in Naples although I know that’s not for everyone but it’s easy to the airport and for visiting Herculaneum, Capri/Procida, and the ferries to the Aeolian Islands. The pizza is not bad either.

Along with Herculaneum (smaller but better than Pompeii), you may also want to consider Monte Cassino and Caserta. Both are worth a stop - an in particular the abbey at Monte Cassino has been restored and the museum, grounds, and the church are wonderful - particularly the crypt that is done in old mosaics that reminded me of Monreale.

Ditto, though I wonder at what point the slowly increasing influence of tourism might change my mind. It was certainly a good choice a few years ago to have a week in Ravello, then take the shortest of transfers to Pogerola (down the hill to Amalfi, and then back up the next hill to Pogerola). Decent views in Pogerola, but way less breathtaking that Ravello, but conversely it felt much more like real life and very much surrounded by locals (and staying in an apartment block well before the days of Airbnb made that commonplace).

Ravello I’m sure remains the perfect place to relax, get some walking in, but to shake off the pace of modern life faster than anywhere else on the Amalfi coast.

You’re definitely more gregarious / skilled than ourselves re: the driving. It would simply be too stressful to us, especially the need to confidently and accurately reverse at the drop of a hat on steep roads (with steeper drops!). Excellent that you mentioned the route over the inland mountains, and whenever we’ve got a taxi to/from Napoli airport, that’s the way they’ve come into Ravello, (I think) coming off the E45 at Angri, taking the SP2b / SP1 towards Sambuco. The SP1 very much hugs the side of the mountain, and the locals who know the roads, will drive fast there, so if stressed by them tail-gating your car, take opportunities to pull over and let them past to ease the stress levels in both cars.

A good comment about Napoli as well, and similarly it’s a place I find exceptionally stressful / in your face, but that same life and intimacy is enthralling to others. “The pizza is not bad either” :rofl:

I share your views on Positano and Sorrento, though I’m sure they remain good options for people taking a first holiday in Italy, as the touristy nature also means fewer linguistic / cultural challenges. FWIW my first trip to Italy was Ravello in 1990, and whilst I had just a few words in Italian (and a small phrasebook / dictionary), it was enough to get by for sure, including navigating challenges such as assisting a friend buying a pair of shoes in Amalfi.

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Will second Fred’s recommendation of the SINA VILLA MEDICI, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

Have stayed here twice and really enjoyed it

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We’ve done two short November stays in Tuscany - once flying into FCO from the US and another flying into Bologna from Germany. We prefer to rent a car and stay out of the big cities. We had amazing weather and it was a fantastic time to visit.

We really loved Villa Bordoni near Greve in Chianti, La Collegiata outside the walls of San Gimignano, a small “village” hotel Locanda Amorosa in Sinalunga, Lupaia near Montepulciano, etc. So many great places to stay and so many things to do. Booking.com usually has some great places that I’ve never heard of but you need to do your research.

Take a look at the Lungarno Hotel in Firenze. The hotel also has 4 spacious apartments in a separate building steps away from the hotel entrance.

We stayed in a river view room there. Good location and hotel, this was over 10 years ago though.

Thanks everyone! We are in the midst of digging into the planning as we speak. I think we are deciding between Ravello and Amalfi at this point as Positano from what I’ve been told is overwhelmingly touristy and as such it’s insanely crowded. As it’s the end of our trip I think we want to wind down a bit.

If wanting to properly wind down, doing some walking, relaxing and enjoying stunning views, eating well and enjoying the equivalent of the evening passeggiata in the square, then Ravello is absolutely the right choice. Good ‘explore’ options from Ravello include: the 2 gardens (Rufulo and Cimbrone - I much prefer the rambling style of the latter, over the formality of the former); Amalfi, ideally walking down, with the option of a bus back; Walk down to Minori & back which is slightly shallower than the Amalfi walk; Valley of the Mills walk (see Julian Tippett guide), which has lovely contrasts and the finish has historic interest as well as appreciating the transition from old paper mills to the edge of the town; A walk not in the Tippett guide, but one we stumbled across, heading inland holding similar altitude above the valley - wonderfully cool woodland walk on woodchipped paths and even quieter than the quiet previous walk, no-one else around; Scala very quiet indeed, but if Ravello has got busier, it might appeal.

However… if you’re still going to be in the mindset of being active every day, and wanting to see Pompeii, Herculaneum, Capri (and seeing Positano for yourself), etc. then Amalfi is much the more practical option (but even within Amalfi there are places on the fringes that are a modest walk into Amalfi, but also give a feeling of being outside the town). Amalfi is a bus hub, connected to Napoli & Salerno, but also on the ferry routes along the coast. If there are organised tours that interest (l’altracostiera do some), they’ll likely depart from Amalfi. It’s a (IIRC) 30 min bus ride down to Amalfi from Ravello, or a c. 30-45 minutes walk down with ~1200 steps along the way, so depending on fitness levels might appeal or not. Either way, if wanting to visit other places on the coast, that additional leg down to Amalfi may start to detract after the 3rd or 4th time.

I like both places, and both have tourism, that has probably grown since our last visit there (I first went in 1990, so have seen it change steadily over time). Thus definitely not a ‘one is better than the other’, but more that one might be better for your aims / aspirations than the other

Stayed at the Hotel degli Orafi in Florence. Recommended by Andrew Gelb in his very-helpful thread from a couple years back. Stellar location. They do have rooms that sleep 3, including the suite we booked to accommodate our young adult daughter on the trip - two floors with a sitting area where she could do remote work. Great service and breakfast - go to breakfast early and sit at one of the tables overlooking the Vasari Corridor and the Arno.

We stayed at the Degli Orafi in Florence last year and also really liked it. Perfect location in Florence.