Driving through Piemont, looking for that one #must visit# food/wine tasting

KlausS · November 20, 2022, 10:40pm

Next summer I am planning to connect a trip through and over the Alpes (driving on the Grande Route des Alpes, highly recommended) and a week at the sea in Liguria with driving through Piemont, more or less crossing straight through the Barolo / Barbaresco / Langhe region and looking for a nice place for lunch and a reco for a tasting or a combination of both. Should be in the area around noonish.

As I am not as familiar (yet) with all things Nebbiolo my cellar right now just has some Produttori Langhes and nothing else from the area, and even that I did not even taste yet. So the expected - visit the guys you like most - I can‘t do yet.

Restaurant wise I looked through some threads and found some recommendations:
L’OSTERIA DEL VIGNAIOLO, La Morra
VINOTECA CENTRO STORICO, Serralunga d’Alba
Locanda La Gemella - Barolo

Is there anything to recommend for a single winery visit, can‘t try too much wine anyway needing to continue the drive later on. A place where the winery would combine the wine tasting with some great food would work too, as would some nice restaurant which has some special relation to the next door winery.

Thanks for advice

Ian_Sutton · November 21, 2022, 9:03am

Hi Klaus
Are you looking for somewhere:

Fancy
Traditional
Relaxed/cosy?
to eat. Plenty of great places, but better to find one that really suits what you’ll want. Typically for a lunch on the road, we’d be looking for something relatively casual, for a lighter meal and ideally somewhere with a good view e.g. Osteria Veglio in La Morra, but you may want something different

There’s certainly merit in combining wine tasting and lunch, to get a real break from the driving, though it’s worth asking yourself whether you have the time to fit both in alongside the driving, and whether winetasting is a good idea when on a long drive.

If that combo DOES work for you, then it’s worth a look at Schiavenza in Serralunga d’Alba. The wines a little under the radar, and the food good and very fairly priced. The young couple that run winery and restaurant seem very committed to both. Winery sits down some steps from the restaurant, so this fits your aim.

KlausS · November 21, 2022, 9:29am

Thanks Ian,

and yes, you exactly pointed out the shortcoming of things while just driving through.

I‘ll look up Schiavenza which I have seen recommended elsewhere on the forum and Osteria Veglio as well, what would be a good winery to visit in Morra then?

Casual is absolutely what we are looking for, fancy will be more for a diner event. The final place (close to Finale Ligure) we‘ll end up is just around 100km / max two hours south so its not too bad.

Thanks much

F.Daner · November 21, 2022, 11:13am

Hi Klaus- would 2nd the recommendation for Veglio. It’s really very good. We ate their twice during our stay over the summer. Terrific spot for lunch. A 2 minute drive down the hill is Azelia https://www.azelia.it/ We were unable to fit in a visit with them on our trip but we love the wines. I’ve read many good reports of tasting with Lorenzo Scavino. I don’t think it’s too hard to secure a visit.

There are many other restaurant/winery combinations you could put together but you can’t go wrong pairing these two. If you have time you can do a quick exploration of La Morra. There are some incredible views of the region from the top of town. You might want to squeeze an overnight in. The area is so beautiful. Where are you staying on the Ligurian coast ?

Ian_Sutton · November 21, 2022, 1:00pm

Hi Klaus
La Morra offers an interesting cross-section of styles, covering the whole range from an unmoved traditionalist like (Lo)Renzo Accommasso, through to the still strident modernists like Elio Altare. We’ve enjoyed visiting Mauro Molino, with a professional yet friendly new generation making that experience. They’re probably ‘lean modern’ on Pat Burton’s useful & excellent wiki style thread, with good accessibility, perceptible (but not OTT) oak. Not necessarily my ideal style, but we’ve very much enjoyed our visits there.

As an aside, if you’re following a similar route home, and want to do some more general shopping, the out of town shopping centre near Mondovi may be a convenient stop (it’s called Mondovicino, something of a punny title). All very modern and unlike the Italy I normally love, but it’s convenient and allows for walking outside, not cooped up as so many such shopping places are. It’s on the E717 which I suspect you’ll be using.

Finally I’ll throw an alternative idea in… that doesn’t involve a winery stop . Bra, and in particular the restaurant Boccon di Vino is seen as the birthplace of the slowfood movement. If that appeals to you, then it might be a more memorable lunch. IMO the food is good, as is the setting. Are there better places? Probably, but I’ll cut them a little slack for what they represent / their history… and they are good. Bra like many places has a no traffic ZTL, but it’s feasible to park reasonably closely and walk in.

KlausS · November 21, 2022, 1:33pm

We found a nice place in Loano, first time we´ll explore the Ponente Side, more used to the Levante

KlausS · November 21, 2022, 1:39pm

First of all thanks much for your insights Ian, much appreciated

We´ll probably drive home going more or less up north straight direction Milano and Swiss, or might have a “drive-by” in Serravalle which is on the road from Genua to Milano, not much for wine there tho.

Ian_Sutton · November 21, 2022, 1:50pm

A minor detour E25/A26 takes you very close indeed to Ghemme and Gattinara if you wanted a wine fix / some wine shopping on the way back. If coming back on a Sunday, then Il Cavenago in Ghemme has wonderful agriturismo lunches (which feel like banquets) and do phenomenal risotto.

However a lakeside stop, walk and light meal might be an even more appealing prospect when breaking up a journey.

So many wonderful options!

Jason_H · November 22, 2022, 9:13pm

I would skip Vignaiolo. Ate there last week in context of 15 other restaurants out there and it was the least good and the only one I can’t recommend. I’d definitely put Osteria Veglio and Repubblica on the top of the list.

KlausS · November 23, 2022, 7:09am

Seems like +3 for Osteria Veglio, which website looks fantastic too

Thanks all

Dan_Kravitz · December 11, 2022, 12:24pm

In that area, please consider Aosta. About 5 years ago I stayed for a few days at Locanda La Clusaz. The food was incredible, the value even more so.

Dan Kravitz

Ian_Sutton · December 11, 2022, 1:38pm

If en-route (or could feasibly be en-route), then I’d second this.

There’s Aosta the city, that’s got its own quirky charms, growing round what little flat land there is around the area and indeed I found watching the light planes swooping down from the mountains to land there quite mesmerising. I found it rather friendly, and especially the ‘mad as a hatter’ lady who ran the (loose leaf) tea shop near the train station. Completely hyper, but with a joyous ‘new thought every 2 seconds’ energy that was infectious.

Then there’s valle d’Aosta with stunning scenery from the famous mountains and notably the Gran Paradiso national park. Whether you walk, drive or simply sit and relax, this is very stimulating mountainous countryside.

The wines are at times very interesting and somewhat under the radar, albeit it’s a challenging location for grape-growing for sure.

KlausS · December 12, 2022, 8:13pm

Thanks gents,

absolutely agree on the beauty of the region. I am typically driving through Aosta coming down the Great St. Bernard pass, driving up the Aosta valley towards France over the Little St Bernard pass to continue on the Route des Grandes Alpes which connects Lake Geneva and the Mediterrenean Sea across the most beautiful passes of the Alpes. If you are in Piemont or South France and like mountain passes either by car or bike this is a great trip if you like curves and lots of them.

Next year the plan is to do the above again passing through Aosta and to continue south on the RdGA until roughly half-way and go back to Italy crossing the Alpes again and spending some time around and in Turino. Turn south again to drive towards Alba/Barolo to end up around Finale Liguria at the medditeranean sea.

Love the curves/passes and to combine with nice regions for great food/wine

Barry_L_i_p_t_o_n · December 12, 2022, 9:55pm

While my favorite tasting was at Giacosa, in terms of those you can get in without contacts, Brovia was great. Live there wine, cellar door pricing was attractive, and they were engaging and generous with their time.

Ian_Sutton · December 13, 2022, 8:54am

Sounds like a good plan. Torino (somewhat ironically, given its association with cars) is unsurprisingly not a great place to have a car, but if it’s your own, it’s feasible to simply park up and take public transport in the city (you’re not wasting rental fees). Ideally either find somewhere outside the ZTL to stay, or perhaps even better, somewhere on the outskirts, with public transport option into the city. On this latter option, I’d be intrigued if you choose it, as it’s an option we’ve thought about in the past & might consider in the future. Chieri seemed the most likely option, but I’d also looked at places towards Chivasso. There may be other good options.

KlausS · July 8, 2023, 4:07pm

@F.Daner @Jason_H @Ian_Sutton,

Gents, your recommendation for the Osteria Veglio was FANTASTIC

Thank you very much

Drove by this noon and we had the menu and just a little glass of wine (driving and all), the food was excellent, the view from the terrasse great, service very friendly, I am sold

Actually this has been my first trip to Piemont / Barolo and hopefully it won‘t be the last. For maybe next year or this autumn already I am contemplating a mix of driving the half of the Route des Grande Alpes until around the Col de L’Izoard and turning left to Italy over the Col d’ Agnello to end up pretty much in Barolo.

Thanks again

F.Daner · July 8, 2023, 8:06pm

Excellent to hear @KlausS. Wonderful family as well that runs the restaurant. We’re hoping to get back soon.

KlausS · September 3, 2023, 8:13pm

@F.Daner @Jason_H @Ian_Sutton excuse me for picking your brains again.

After the first great visit to the area we are discussing to have a long weekend early October and combine the 1/2 RdGA to get into Piemont from the Alpes (again).

Looking for a nice Agritourismo (like one of these Agriturismo Piedmont : Farmhouse and best Agritourism in Piemonte ) and asking for a recommendation.

As for restaurants and winery visits I‘ll probably will read a couple of hours right here on the forums, but if there is further advice from you guys I would be happy too.

Thanks again

Ian_Sutton · September 3, 2023, 9:25pm

Hi Klaus
The listing appears to be for the whole of Piedmont - do you have somewhere specific in mind?

That said, I think Il Milin is one we’ve stayed at (Southern outskirts of Asti). Best with a car, and October might mean the pool might shut. The banquet meals there were convivial, but there are better agriturismo meals elsewhere. I recall the accommodation was good / modern, but did feel a little out of the way.

We didn’t stay at Ada Nada or Il Bricco, but would absolutely recommend Treiso, as all 4 places to eat are worthy of recommendation, and each with a different experience. Some good walking through vineyards there.

Val di spinso in Santa vittoria d’Alba is a firm recommendation, though again not sure if the pool will be shut in October. Lovely grounds surrounding the pool, with a patio/bbq area for relaxed eating outside, and modern but stylish and spacious, well-equipped apartments. Breakfast was free, and whilst appreciated, it’s like many Italian breakfasts, something that can be skipped as it’s fairly humdrum. There are restaurants in the village, plus a useful alimentari. If doing a bigger shop, it’s a 10 minute drive from a big Bennet hypermarket on the Alba-Bra superstrada that’s something of a modern out of town shopping area. There is an unmanned train station in walking distance serving Alba & Bra. Also a castle made famous by The old film ‘secret of Santa Vittoria’. Oh and my profile photo is the view of that castle from the grounds of Val di Spinso.

We’ve not stayed in Guarene, or even visited, but a member of the SlowEurope site talked very positively about it as a lovely untouristic place, with a lovely feel to the village.

I Grappoli in Serralunga d’Alba also recommended, and ditto the winery linked to it ‘Gabutti’. Breakfasts included and actually worth getting out of bed for as they’re decent (which is high praise in Italy). Apartments spacious, albeit a little dark, designed to dissipate rather than retain heat, but should still be warm enough in October. Well placed for some good vineyard walks. Very good value as well from memory.

Plenty of other super places in Piemonte, and given our success rate, I’d expect most of those listed will have charm.

Two others not listed, but memorable for us:

Il Cavenago in Ghemme. Ghemme itself is a bland mix of roads with no traffic (the bypass relieved them of heavy traffic), but we enjoy the company of the people there, even if most tourists wouldn’t blink when passing through. The agriturismo generally only cook food at weekends, but it’s very good indeed, with stunning risottos. The rest of the time there are some decent but not fancy restaurants / trattorie. Nearby Gattinara and Novara also worth a visit. The building is rural classy, with high beams and heavy oak, but modern bathrooms. The courtyard lovely and peaceful, including a wonderful aerobatic display from the bats at dusk every evening. Logistically it might be attractive.

Agriturismo Tetto Garrone a shortish drive from Cuneo is run by an enthusiastic school teacher and they grow hazelnuts, which are very good. It’s more a B&B as the apartments are modestly sized, and the kitchen is a shared one, but a lovely place to chat with other guests and we had a lovely evening chatting with the owner’s mother, bonding over (of all things) Italian TV. It’s a relaxing setting, with from memory a village nearby. Cuneo however is the main appeal, and it’s a small city we rather like in its quirky way.

KlausS · September 4, 2023, 7:05am

Thank you Ian,

actually that listing wasn‘t meant as ‚only among those‘ but some listing my wife found of agritourismi in the larger area, I think we should be settling rather close to Barolo/Barbaresco so I looked up things with Alba vs Piemont the other day.

I will dig into your recos later today - thanks much for taking the time