Next summer I am planning to connect a trip through and over the Alpes (driving on the Grande Route des Alpes, highly recommended) and a week at the sea in Liguria with driving through Piemont, more or less crossing straight through the Barolo / Barbaresco / Langhe region and looking for a nice place for lunch and a reco for a tasting or a combination of both. Should be in the area around noonish.
As I am not as familiar (yet) with all things Nebbiolo my cellar right now just has some Produttori Langhes and nothing else from the area, and even that I did not even taste yet. So the expected - visit the guys you like most - I can‘t do yet.
Restaurant wise I looked through some threads and found some recommendations:
L’OSTERIA DEL VIGNAIOLO, La Morra
VINOTECA CENTRO STORICO, Serralunga d’Alba
Locanda La Gemella - Barolo
Is there anything to recommend for a single winery visit, can‘t try too much wine anyway needing to continue the drive later on. A place where the winery would combine the wine tasting with some great food would work too, as would some nice restaurant which has some special relation to the next door winery.
Thanks for advice
Are you looking for somewhere:
to eat. Plenty of great places, but better to find one that really suits what you’ll want. Typically for a lunch on the road, we’d be looking for something relatively casual, for a lighter meal and ideally somewhere with a good view e.g. Osteria Veglio in La Morra, but you may want something different
There’s certainly merit in combining wine tasting and lunch, to get a real break from the driving, though it’s worth asking yourself whether you have the time to fit both in alongside the driving, and whether winetasting is a good idea when on a long drive.
If that combo DOES work for you, then it’s worth a look at Schiavenza in Serralunga d’Alba. The wines a little under the radar, and the food good and very fairly priced. The young couple that run winery and restaurant seem very committed to both. Winery sits down some steps from the restaurant, so this fits your aim.
and yes, you exactly pointed out the shortcoming of things while just driving through.
I‘ll look up Schiavenza which I have seen recommended elsewhere on the forum and Osteria Veglio as well, what would be a good winery to visit in Morra then?
Casual is absolutely what we are looking for, fancy will be more for a diner event. The final place (close to Finale Ligure) we‘ll end up is just around 100km / max two hours south so its not too bad.
Hi Klaus- would 2nd the recommendation for Veglio. It’s really very good. We ate their twice during our stay over the summer. Terrific spot for lunch. A 2 minute drive down the hill is Azelia https://www.azelia.it/ We were unable to fit in a visit with them on our trip but we love the wines. I’ve read many good reports of tasting with Lorenzo Scavino. I don’t think it’s too hard to secure a visit.
There are many other restaurant/winery combinations you could put together but you can’t go wrong pairing these two. If you have time you can do a quick exploration of La Morra. There are some incredible views of the region from the top of town. You might want to squeeze an overnight in. The area is so beautiful. Where are you staying on the Ligurian coast ?
La Morra offers an interesting cross-section of styles, covering the whole range from an unmoved traditionalist like (Lo)Renzo Accommasso, through to the still strident modernists like Elio Altare. We’ve enjoyed visiting Mauro Molino, with a professional yet friendly new generation making that experience. They’re probably ‘lean modern’ on Pat Burton’s useful & excellent wiki style thread, with good accessibility, perceptible (but not OTT) oak. Not necessarily my ideal style, but we’ve very much enjoyed our visits there.
As an aside, if you’re following a similar route home, and want to do some more general shopping, the out of town shopping centre near Mondovi may be a convenient stop (it’s called Mondovicino, something of a punny title). All very modern and unlike the Italy I normally love, but it’s convenient and allows for walking outside, not cooped up as so many such shopping places are. It’s on the E717 which I suspect you’ll be using.
Finally I’ll throw an alternative idea in… that doesn’t involve a winery stop . Bra, and in particular the restaurant Boccon di Vino is seen as the birthplace of the slowfood movement. If that appeals to you, then it might be a more memorable lunch. IMO the food is good, as is the setting. Are there better places? Probably, but I’ll cut them a little slack for what they represent / their history… and they are good. Bra like many places has a no traffic ZTL, but it’s feasible to park reasonably closely and walk in.
We found a nice place in Loano, first time we´ll explore the Ponente Side, more used to the Levante
First of all thanks much for your insights Ian, much appreciated
We´ll probably drive home going more or less up north straight direction Milano and Swiss, or might have a “drive-by” in Serravalle which is on the road from Genua to Milano, not much for wine there tho.
A minor detour E25/A26 takes you very close indeed to Ghemme and Gattinara if you wanted a wine fix / some wine shopping on the way back. If coming back on a Sunday, then Il Cavenago in Ghemme has wonderful agriturismo lunches (which feel like banquets) and do phenomenal risotto.
However a lakeside stop, walk and light meal might be an even more appealing prospect when breaking up a journey.
So many wonderful options!
I would skip Vignaiolo. Ate there last week in context of 15 other restaurants out there and it was the least good and the only one I can’t recommend. I’d definitely put Osteria Veglio and Repubblica on the top of the list.
Seems like +3 for Osteria Veglio, which website looks fantastic too