The context: I like old cali cabs (say up to the mid-80s), the ones I’ve had the opportunity to try were great. I liked stuff like Montelena, Dominus, Stags Leap, Caymus and a few more. I have also tried quite a few bottles from the 90s, including from the supposedly great vintages (91, 94, 97) but never seemed to be able to recapture the experience (although 91 Dominus was pointing in the right direction at least). But I’m not willing to write them off yet since the other ones were 10-20 years older and that obviously comes into the picture too. On the other hand I got the feeling that there was a change of style in most of them, of the “bigger is better” variety.
The question: let’s say I would like to cellar recently released cali cabs that would in 20-30 years give me the same pleasure I have drinking right now cali cabs from the 70s and 80s. Let’s say I’m willing to hit the $100 per bottle range (which seems to be the price of a recent bottle of Dominus or Montelena). Where would I start? Which ones are still made in the classical style of old and/or will evolve into it?
(PS: to bring even more context I checked quickly some notes on Cali Cabs I had in the past and from what I could find:
wines I liked: 75 Mount Elen, 78 Stags Leap, 79 Stags Leap Cask 23, 91 Mondavi Reserve, 91 Dominus, 91 Insignia, 92 Montelena, 94 Caymus, 95 Beringer PR, 95 Lokoya, 97 HSS, 01 Pride Reserve and quite a few more from the 80s I don’t remember
This biggest difference is that the wines were steadily picked riper and riper throughout the '90s. This trend continued in this decade.
My understanding is the pendulum was actually swinging the other way in the '80s and the wines were sometimes picked less ripe than the '70s.
Maybe the '70s was the goldilocks (just right) part of the fashion pendulum.
My belief is that the '70’s represented the “golden age” of California cabernets. I believe it was the '76 that was absolutely magical for Chateau Montelena. The Phelps Eisele from that decade is also stupendous. Even through the mid-80’s, they were great.
Ah, for those days to return. It really does show what California has the potential to do. But by and large, sadly, they’re not making those style wines today.
Slightly off topic but related, I haven’t had luck in purchasing older California wines. I recently bought these two bottles on a whim knowing that provenance may be an issue and chances that they will still be good were pretty slim:
They were both dead/spoiled. A previously purchased 1983 Dunn Howell Mountain CS didn’t fare any better which was too bad as they could have provided a first hand opportunity to compare/contrast California wines from the early 1980s to today’s style.
I will try the safer route and get the wines that you suggested or purchase older wines from trusted sources.
My favorite source for buying older California wines is Winebid. I have hardly had any cooked bottles. The market for California wines is a slave to fashion. The most talked-about, most expensive California wines are invariably new labels with no track record, but everyone has to have the latest hot thing. As a result, if you want yesterday’s hot thing, there is no shortage of people unloading theirs on Winebid. Whether it’s the ex-“cult” cabernets of the '90s or the classics of the '70s and '80s, most cost less now than they did 10 years ago.
As for Inglenook… the VERY old Inglenooks (going back to the '40s and maybe beyond) are what made the name famous, but by the '80s the label was for plonk. Can’t really use those bottles as a judge for what California wines can do or how they age.
We had a nice collection of '85 Napa Cabs at Ben Goldberg’s the other night, taking a break from our usual Bordeaux consumption (don’t worry, we still had 5 bottles of BDX). The wines were a bit all over the place, although there was some real quality there with the Spottswoode and the Dunn, both of which tasted like where they are from. Both also were pretty consistent to the style that is being made today. Not so much for the Insignia. While I think it’s a fair question as to whether the Cabs of the last dozen years will be as long lasting generally, I am pretty comfortable with either style. Only time will tell.
I’ll write up a complete set of notes at some point, but here is a quick hit on the '85s:
Silver Oak Alex-marred by a volatile nose, it still had a little sprightliness on the palate, yet the lack of acidy and stewy ripeness made for a not terribly pleasant experience.
Ridge Monty-badly madeirized, although it could have been a very good desert wine.
Spottswoode-a classy effort with excellent ripeness and purity, it showed a hint of vanillin and mint and some nice secondary elements like licorice. The best of the lot.
Insignia-holding together well with nice acidity and structure, the fruit was hidden behind a wall of eucalyptus that was annoying as it was disappointing. Hard to believe it wasn’t a Heitz blind.
Dunn HM-probably the most resolved Dunn I’ve had, it had spicy red fruit and (as expected) lots of tannic structure.
i have had good luck in the 80’s with a variety of producers still but agree that Inglenook isn’t one of those. i have friends who had the 1974 Ing within the past year and said it was a really fun look back in time.
agree with Wvan- old phelps eisele and backus are really good classic wines
i would suggest looking for togni with 10+ year of age. his early 90’s wines are classic and really good ad still have years ahead of them
also ridge MB from early 90’s (and 80’s ) are classic
i think i posted some notes on some dominus from late 80’s and 90’s recently, these are more classic than new cali
and of course i think you could find old mondavi at auction
lastly, and i know people will disagree with me but a number of the diamond creeks from 82 & 84 are really starting to drink great
Agree with a lot of the comments above. La Jota from the early 90’s are incredible and have many years ahead of them based on the bottles I’ve had over the last few years.
A quick note on the 97 Insignia. This used to be our company’s “wine friday” wine. While I love the wine, I will say that we’ve probably had a 25% bad bottle percentage. I don’t know the reason, or if that’s in line with others. We purchased heavily from retailers by the case long after its initial release, so perhaps there were storage issues which we weren’t privy to. I will say the Insignia cork is one of the easiest to remove.
I think we’ll be pleasantly surprised how well the better made young cabs will age, just as well made 20-30 year old wines have aged. I would love to know the percentage of small to mid size production cabs made in the 70s, 80s and 90s that are aging well. I imagine it’s pretty hit and miss.
btw, I love drinking Don’s cabs from the 70s and 80s.
Guillaume, there are still a ton of wine that are made in a more classically styled way. Too many people think California is now just homogenized fruit bomb wine. Based on your tastes and the likeyhood of aging I would stick with:
Corison (non-Kronos): Mid 90’s wines from Kathy were drinking great recently coupled with her refusal to change style would indicate these should hold up quite nicely.
Andy Erickson’s Line o’ Wines: Forget Screagle, Look at Favia (his personal label) as well as the lastest vintages out of Arietta and Dalla Valle. Andy always has focused on elegance and acidity. Try to find a 2001 or 2002 Staglin Cab which he made for a brief moment in his career.
Anything Celia: Celia Welch (formerly Masyczek) is hands down one of the greatest wine makers of the current crop of “goto consultants.” For your purposes, you are going to have to tip-toe around some bigger wines. She does an excellent job of leaving her thumbprint but also letting the terroir come through. Avoid stuff like D.R. Stephens and Husic in favor of Kelly Fleming, Corra (her personal label), and perhaps even Keever. Sadly, I have no report on Scarecrow at this point.
BV GdL: Classic goto classical wine.
Ridge Monte Bello: Come on now that is a given.
Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain: Almost another given. Randy is known for long distance wines. Save some dough and go for the recent Napa bottlings which should be 100% Howell Mountain.
Tim Mondavi [or whoever] made a dynamite “old style” Mondavi Reserve in 1995 - if you look around, you might be able to find it in the $80-$90 range.
[Caveat: The bottles that I had were from the recent library release - I assume that they came from more or less the same juice as the original release of the 1995 - but I don’t know that for sure.]
The 1978 Mondavi Reserve [from magnum] is only just now beginning to show secondary notes - it probably has at least a good 20 to 30 years ahead of it before it begins to peak.
And Philip Togni’s 1973 Chappellet is one the greatest wines I have ever tasted [or smelled].
I have had a fair number of old vintages, and they all taste [and/or smell] like rotten coconut suntan oil to me [to the extent that they taste like anything at all and aren’t simply bland and devoid of flavor & aromatics altogether].
i have also had a lot of older MB (maybe the CA wine i have enjoyed in the most vintages though Dominus is close) and yes, the rare bottle devoid of smell and taste. Mostly though i have found older MB to deliver a sublime look backwards @ the era where structure and the concept of wine as compliment to food and life were valued
Keith’s point is a great one that lots of great older cali cabs are available at auction. I pounce on 80s and 90s Laurel Glen whenever I can find them. Great ageworthy and classically styled Cabernet.
In terms of who is still producing ageworthy, structured and classic cabs - some good suggestions already made. In addition, how about Anderson’s Conn Valley, Togni, Karl Lawrence, Spottswoode and Seavey?
Thanks to everybody for the comments and suggestions - I’m definitely writing some names but I wasn’t really asking about what I can find at auction so I’ll refocus the discussion: which wines from 2005-2006 (that I can currently find in wine stores and/or direct from the producer) have the biggest chance to age well? For example I’ve read that the 2005 Dominus was excellent, is it likely to be in the old style?
Also, since I’m in California right now with time on my hands, any producers that are open for a visit with wine to sell and favoring the old style?
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